Thank you very much for this video 😊. I own a ZV-E1 and I am a bit astonished about zebra setting in Slog3 flex-iso. I have to set it to 107+ lower limit to get a correct (+1.7IL) exposure 😵💫 As a matter of fact does not bother me as I tested in all different scenarios from bright daylight to dark rooms both in 640 and 12800 iso and this works for me. Just surprised about the zebra value I have to use and was not expecting. Anyone some feedback about this? TIA 😊
That's a great question and one I'll pin here with hopes that others will chime in, as I probably have a somewhat unorthodox approach, I don't overexpose nor do I use zebras as I monitor with my gamut rec709 lut and just use the histogram to make sure I'm not clipping.
Same, I was too! For me, it was all about having a good rec709 conversion lut, so I could see my footage wasn't going be all washed out... Yeah, now it's hard to go back! Thank you! (And you are about to get that 1k! Whatever you doing lately, keep doing that!!)
Thanks for this clear and straight to the point video! I was lost in a bunch of documentation not really understanding the idea. And you just cleared things up! You upgraded my brain dynamic range. Thanks!
Ha ha... Great analogy! I feel like most of the time, my brain has low dynamic range too, but with the right cocktail of clean caffeine and neurotropics, I can flip into flexible ISO mode for a very productive 1 hr and 45min and too can almost see in the dark... And then I revert back to being inflexible, and hangry with high-contrast in a noisy, poor performing world. But seriously, glad it helped...and appreciate you stopping by to say that!
Thank you so much! I know it's crazy how cleaned up the nose reduction jump is between 10,000 to 12,800... It's also interesting to note that Sony changed the base ISO to 800 on my FX3 in cine ei mode, so I'm sure that 800 will still work, but I need to compare those two to see if they are different between cameras. Thanks again!
@@injectionAI still a great question! On my zve1, the base ISO for Slog3 is 640 (as it used to be on the fx3), but after the update, the fx3s is 800 to match the fx6 (even though they all share the same sensor). I haven't found a clear explanation as to why this discrepancy still exists. Yet, for S-Cinetone for all cameras the base ISOs of 100 and 2000 are still the same.
Great video. One fact correction though, the creator was filmed with external monitors and recorded in Raw, not S-Log 3. Somewhat misleading to anyone who doesn’t know better.
Yes, you are, as far as I can tell, completely correct, and I really appreciate you giving me that note respectfully and constructively! Thank you! I initially had (or still have) some confusion on how they monitored their footage and their dailies. There was some mention of converting ProRes RAW to Log (to maintain slog3 metadata) so as to create their own LUT just while shooting, while obviously handing off RAW (not log) to Weta for VFX and/or their colorists who seem to have a very strange post processing procedure altogether to get that look and that grain as Greig Fraser more thoroughly explained with first Dune. However, very different camera there and different look, but similar digital to analog effect. Regardless, you are right... I should have clarified that... Not to mention the zve1 can't do what my fx3 does and record externally, so that's noteworthy too... and something I should have mentioned! Thanks again!!
We should be specific in the information we provide. It was recorded in Apple ProRes Raw. There is no such thing as one Raw format, but many implementations
You're so welcome... I do think it's a great camera to slowly wade into the deep end with and at least try tinkering in other modes and playing with flexible ISO! It will be worth it. Best of luck and appreciate you taking the time to comment--thank you!!
Thank you for this excellent video sir ! Because of your crystal clear explanations and the images perfectly illustrating your point I finally fully grasp what dynamic range is about and why I would use S-LOG3 as pp in conjunction with a LUT. Having just purchased a Sony 6700 this video came my way just at the right time ! Thanks again, I've subscribed to your channel.
@@michelhuyskens9790 I can't tell you how nice it is to hear this... I appreciate you stopping by and taking the time to comment, and I'm glad you found this helpful (flexible ISO is legit confusing)! I'm also considering picking up the a6700 as it's an amazing hybrid for the price... Thanks again!!
@@tennissir1986 that's honestly the best comment I could wake up to... I really appreciate that!! As for how the zve1 comes about it's 1080p, I honestly don't know offhand... and would be googling it (but with "fx3" or "a7s3" as the search term). I imagine it's from the 4.2k, but how it does it precisely (binning or skipping or what software magic they use), I'm not sure... Sorry I can't be more helpful here. Thanks again!!
1.Thank you. I am rightly under standing about Luts and sLog easily now because of you. 2.Thank you. Thanks to you, I can understand Luts and sLog easily now. I'm not good at writing because I'm Korean. It would be helpful if you could choose the sentence you like more.
I’ve been waiting for this video. Jumping to slog anything has been terrifying. Just seems like you can easily mess things up. I’ve got some work projects coming up. And I need ti lock it in before I “try it” on the real deal.
I completely understand your hesitancy! Only until I loaded in my slog3 conversion lut from Gamut, I didn't feel comfortable using it as often as I should have... But the monitoring lut took the fear away simply because what I see is what I get. Either way, a little practice goes a long way... Best of luck!!
@@BrianCatalano so quick question, I set up my ZV-E1 eactly how you set it. And I'm using the rec709 800% Lut. But I STILL need to use the rec 709 in post correct? It does not bake into the video right?
@@WhoIsJonHarris yes that is correct, there are ways to bake in other LUTs but it's not recommended, so in post you will have to add a rec709 conversion lut. Most editing softwares have some default ones, called something like Sony slog3. Yet, there's a good chance it won't be great and it's almost easier color correcting yourself or finding a good LUT elsewhere than trying to work with what your given by your software (at least in Premiere for me).
Thank you so much! For the A7C, since it doesn't have a dual native ISO, I only recommend shooting at the base ISOs. However, there are definitely ways to configure the camera for shooting at night for solid lowlight performance. I know Make Art Now did a whole, viral video on this topic (but with the a73). Yet again, for most instances, I stay at the base ISO which is different per picture profile, so if your picture profile is off (which I've started doing more in the studio because you inspired me), the base is 100. For hlg3 it's 125 and for Slog3 and Slog2, it's 500. So I imagine Slog2 might be the way to go if you want to shoot more at night. Hope that helps...and thanks again!!
Very well explained! You deserve more views and subs! I just bought the ZV-E1, I moved from the a7c and I'm already loving the ZV more, especially with the 10bit I'm planning on selling the a7c. I think it's better for photos, so I'm still debating myself, I don't see myself going out with two cameras, and my old Nikon D800, with a good old 50mm takes amazing pictures if you know how to use it fully manual.
btw! I was also looking for a comparison with low iso... It's very sunny in Barcelona and my ND filter doesn't go that high sometimes. Maybe you can make another video, explain the lower ISO. Just a thought. Keep publishing!
I really appreciate this! Your comment helps, more than I can express, to fuel me to keep going... Thank you! Now, I also understand your dilemma here as I just sold my A7C as well and recently came back from a family trip where I only took the zve1 for both video and photo...and am constantly surprised at how nice my photos look! I also get that having the d800 is still a phenomenal tool for photos, and you've got a great combo between both cameras. Yet again, the zve1 in a pinch is a better hybrid camera than it gets credited for...
@@WasabiNoise that's a great idea...and ideally I aim to stay at the lowest base ISO and will crank my shutter up or slow down the aperture when necessary and I don't have a good ND filter with me. I may also, go into s-cinetone for the 100 ISO especially on a bright day... I do think that's a solid idea for a video. (By the by: Barcelona is one of my favorite places in the world. My last name is Italian but it means, "Of Catalan" so my people moved from Barcelona to Sicily like a thousand years ago, but I still feel a connection there. Regardless, beautiful place to shoot pics!)
This is the best video that explains it! If I shoot in S-Cinetone, would I still benefit from the dual base ISO, i.e. getting a cleaner picture at ISO 12800 than at 10000?
Thank you so much! I really appreciate that!! So with S-Cinetone the two base ISOs are 100 and 2000, so I tend to only shoot in those ISOs. Hope that helps!
How did you get these colours what you have in the clip with a pool behind (0.10 sec of the video) ? I looked at the luts you suggested and they look nothing as good as your footage? They look yellow or gray etc. But your footage looks super great!!!
Hello... That's really interesting, and hard for me to fully figure out without seeing your settings. Yet, in that clip I first put the Gamut LUT on (as is) and then tweaked the colors and exposure to my liking (which honestly was with two sliders in about 5 seconds of effort on premiere pro). That being said, sometimes if I don't nail exposure in camera or my white balance is off (setting white balance is ideal and setting your zebras correctly will help), adding a LUT might not be enough... Yet, often as I did in that pool shot, I had auto white balance and no zebras and the Gamut LUT was perfect. I'm not sure what editing program you use, but on premiere sometimes I add the conversion lut as a creative lut, so I can raise or lower the strength of it... So I can use that Gamut LUT at 60% strength and then tweak contrast, brightness, saturation, and temperature on my own. I'm not sure if that helps at all, but very infrequently do I ever just pop a lut on without tinkering with it as well. Does that all make sense?
I really appreciate it... Thank you! I know, it's nice that they included some display luts that actually are decent, makes shooting in SLOG3 way better!
Great vid... My A6700 shoots 10 bit sLog3 (and thank God it can spit out lo-rez proxy files at the same time!). I'm just wondering, if I want to shoot in 8 bit 4:2:2 if it would be better to just switch off flex-iso and use the DRO? 🤷 the lonely overlander
Thank you... And that's a good and difficult question! I am not sure what I'd do if I was shooting in 8 bit other than shoot in s-cinetone. I'd maybe consider Hlog3 as a possibility to increase dynamic range but the a6700 is the one Sony camera that I haven't played with that I really want to, but I'd probably have to tinker with it myself to see. Sorry if that's not helpful!
Nice explanation. What is your take on shooting HLG3 vs LOG3 especially for high contrast night scenes e.g. downtown night city shooting with bright signs and pitch dark areas? Would love to hear your opinion on that matter.
Thank you and that's a great question! I only shoot in Hlog3 on my 8bit cameras because I find working in HDR rec2020 more difficult than is necessary (because people may watch your work on an HDR device or in rec709 on a TV, so the discrepancy in look can be jarring). Yet, of course you can interpret the footage in a rec709 timeline and export as such, but at least with Premiere Pro, I find that HDR footage can look different in-camera, on my editing timeline, and after it has been exported. I did make a video on coloring 8bit footage: ruclips.net/video/mz6cIjVAGsA/видео.html ...whereas I convert slog3 to rec709 which will typically look the same across all mediums (phones, TVs, laptops, etc). Also, on the zve1 (and others that share the sensor) Hlog3s ISOs are 100 and 2000 which happens to be the same as S-Cinetone (which is already rec709), so I'd rather shoot in s-cinetone if it roughly has the same dynamic range. Now at night, I'd only shoot in slog3 as you have the most lattitude to push and pull colors around to make them as saturated or 'contrasty' as you want. Hlog3 in 10bit cameras do not seem to have any advantage. That all being said, if you're an expert in color management, which I'm not, there may be reasons to shoot Hlog3 that I'm not aware of... Or if you're trying to match 10bit and 8bit, that may make sense to shoot both in Hlog3 with multiple cameras. Other than that I'd say slog3 or S-Cinetone are usually the better options. Hope that helps and doesn't confuse you more... Either way don't hesitate to ask me to clarify. Thanks again!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate that ... do you monitor with the phantom luts? I've been debating buying them, curious what your experiences are.
Any difference between an slog3 PP and the log setting with flexible iso in post production? Is it just the iso that becomes flexible or are there other differences. Trying to decide between those settings and s-cinetone. Weapons my head around all of this.
The reason that I choose flexible ISO mode instead of going into a picture profile and changing the gamma to slog3 and the color mode to s-gamut 3cine, is that you cannot monitor with a LUT. However, you can use gamma assist to help with color, but it's harder to correctly expose that way... So if I'm not shooting in SLOG3 for when I need great lowlight performance, like shooting at night with 12800 ISO, or when I really need flexibility to color grade, slog3 lets you really push colors around, then I shoot in s-cinetone, pp11. In fact that's my default picture profile, so if I turn flexible ISO off, it goes back to pp11 automatically. Both are great options, but for different reasons. Thank you for the question, I should have mentioned this in the video!
@@BrianCatalano what is the reason you say it's harder to expose the correct way. Is it because the zebra dont behave the same way with gamma assist and with a rec709(800%) display LUT ?
@@maximecaron3133 I was saying that it's hard for me to expose correctly with the naked eye, especially without that specific monitoring display lut on. I'm sure if your zebras are perfectly dialed in and you use a gray card each time you turn on the camera, you probably could just trust your zebras, but to be honest, I don't do that with the zve1. I bought it to just pick up and shoot, but the gray card is probably the best way to go if you have time... Does that make sense?
Yoooo, great video!!! You answered so many questions all at once!!! Could you please do a video about creating your own luts? That would be great!! Loved this one!!!
Ahhh, thank you! I really appreciate it... Do you typically shoot in SLOG3 or something else with your 10bit cameras? In this video, towards the end I made a brief tutorial on how I make a LUT, but I probably should make a separate, more succinct video about it: ruclips.net/video/mz6cIjVAGsA/видео.html
@BrianCatalano I"ll check out the video! Usually, I shoot in S-Cinetone, but I wanted to try using slog3 more. I could never get the exposure right...one video said to expose +2, andother video says to expose +1.7. Is there a science or method for exposing slog3? Ill see what your video says!
@@BrianCatalano And I'm not gonna congratulate you on 2k...I expected this easily for you. I'll congratulate you when you hit 5k, which is coming soon!!!
@@francoismarc3 I really appreciate you acknowledging that... I also haven't celebrated milestones because I'm afraid that it will keep me from moving forward by being satisfied with the past. I'm sure there's some broken logic in there or low self-worth ideations. But when we both hit 5 or 10k, we should definitely get cakes or something and soak it in and then promptly move on!
Does slog3 really improve low light performance that much? That 2000 vs 12800 iso seems difficult to explain between s-cinetone vs slog3 - what’s that, 4 stops? The camera isn’t defying physics with slog3, it just seems like you’re getting a flatter profile to start but then having to curve afterwards, which is going to introduce more noise. It would be interesting to see a test chart as well to compare resolution differences between the dual native isos.
All good questions, and tons of info out there about it, but maybe I'd recommend watching Gerald Undones review of the Sony A7S3 as he charts all that out fairly well if you haven't seen it already. There are many other's out there, more scientific examinations that cover slog3s dynamic range, such as Josh Sattin's slog3 video. Those two should help...
I really appreciate it... I love how the zve1 makes log shooting a lot easier than with most cameras, and Slog3 is such a powerful picture profile that simply turning flexible ISO on, you unleash it's full potential! Thanks again!
Thank you so much... And that's a great question with a weird answer... So if when you're in flexible ISO mode, you can turn on "embed lut", however it does not bake it into the footage, so you still have to apply the lut in post. What it does is it embeds the lut into the metadata so you can see it in Sony's proprietary software, Catalyst Browse where you can view it with the Lut on or off. I'm not sure why they do that. In the FX3 there is a way, I believe, to bake in the lut but I have not figured out how to do it in the zv-e1. It may just be something I need to look deeper into, but it's not clear that you can. Hope that helps...and thanks again!
You just turn off flexible ISO and when you go to choose your picture profile, you’ll see an extra 4 options past pp11. It will show you the first 4 luts you have imported, but you can go into the pp details and change it. All 4 options past pp11 are going to be in S-Log 3, and baked in as soon as you hit record.
@@mirrorlessmemory thank you for that! I really appreciate you explaining this in detail!! I likely wouldn't have figured it out as it seems like a strange way to have the lut baked in. It would be nice if each picture profile had a toggle on or off/LUT select within the pp menu. Either way, it's good to know we can do it if we need. Thanks again!
I really appreciate that, thanks for letting me know and happy it was helpful! I agree, and I know I'm biased, but I think my boy is pretty cute, too. Thanks again!!
I really appreciate that... It's hard to know if I'm hitting that sweet spot of not sounding too technical or dumbing things down too much, so it helps hearing that feedback! Thank you!!
Hey Brian ! I've got one question that gives me some headaches today, related to the pinned comment actually. When I use zebras on Slog 3 with a picture profile (the traditional way) or with the vairable ISO (the new way), the result is totally different while the settings are exactly the same ! I mean, in both cases I use Slog3, S-Gamut3.Cine and gamma assist display r709(800%). With the traditional way my zebras need to be at 94+ while with the new way they have to be set at 109+ for the exact same result ! Any thoughts anyone ? Btw, thank you for the quality of your videos. Thumb's up for that. Cheers !
Great question... And thank you! So... Rec709 (800) is a different tone curve, much higher contrast (so more likely to clip highlights), whereas the rec709 curve is much more shallow preserving more highlights, so it makes sense you'd set your zebras differently per each. With my monitor lut or s709, I also set my c2 zebra to +94 and may only use 709(800) if I'm trying to monitor for particular color accuracy, but I generally never use it . Does that make sense?
@@BrianCatalano Hi Brian, Thank you for the blazing fast reply. I agree with you that the S709 and the 709(800%) are different curves, that's the reason why I mentionned that I use the exact same settings on both, including the gamma display curve. With the PP and the variable ISO I use S-log3 to 709(800%), not the S709. Strange enough right ? 😅
@@eclictic3287 oh yes, you're right... That is strange. To be honest, you probably know as much as I do. I found a LUT that works for me and have since turned my brain off on the matter!
@@BrianCatalano Hey Brian. Yes we probably have to live with this crazyness, while I hate leaving something inexplicable behind. But we've gto to keep going for sure. ;)
The base ISO changes depending on the cine ei mode and camera you are using... This changed recently when they updated the FX3 to align with the FX6 (all 3 share the same sensor) from 640 to 800. There doesn't seem to be a clearly defined reason why and how. However, in Flexible ISO mode on the zve1 you can still use the original base ISO of 640. On my fx3 in cine ei it's 800, so more confusing than necessary. Regardless, if you have the zve1, it's 640 in flexible ISO. Great question!
The main difference really has to do with, from what I can gather, how you can monitor in-camera (ish)... So in flexible ISO, you can load in a conversion LUT of your choice. I use Gamuts slog3. However, it will also be a LUT within your picture profile so I think technically speaking you can use the slog3, as is, as a picture profile... or you can monitor with a lut also from a separate picture from that was imported by the user--outside of flexible ISO. So then, I think the sole differences may come to how you embed luts or bake them in... That all being said, I find the flexible ISO mode easiest for me because it's all confusing, and I am now used to the new main menu screen. I don't know if I helped clarify that at all...
@@BrianCatalano haha yeah. this helped a bit!! i have been trying to put the log shooting “on”setting on either my fn menu or a mapped button. but it seems you cant right?
@@ccamilodonneys yes, you are right...you can't. Yet, I wonder if you can make a custom button setting or a memory recall setting on the mode dial, but might not be that much faster!
One thing about shooting in Slog you need to be near base or expanded ISO otherwise it looks like crap. I didn't realise this at first. Then I keep it near one of the two bases and it does look good.Too much effort though for run and gun vacation/ Vlog etc.Is there less noise on Flexible ISO rather than just using the Slog picture profile? Still a lot of effort and chance of mistakes outside the controlled environment.
Yes, you are right about all that... I use slog3 in flexible ISO at only 640 or 12800 in manual or aperture priority mode so I can lock ISO. I then regulate exposure mostly with my shutter. The advantage of using flexible ISO and not just slog3 on a picture profile is that I can monitor with a lut which helps with exposure. Again, at those two ISOs, you should get very minimal noise. The most ideal situation is you stay at the base ISO 640 and light accordingly... Unless you are in a lowlight condition. However, if you want a casual picture profile, just shoot in s-cinetone (PP11) at ISO 100 or 2000. It's great, neutral colors straight out of camera... Those are the only two settings I use. Hope that helps!
@@BrianCatalano thanks for the detailed reply. So shooting in flexible ISO just has the advantage you can put the lut on rather than any noise advantage etc? I stick to S Cinetone but last night I did a test in the dark in the street and if you expose it right the Slog3 looks great. Too much to go wrong for me thought!😂
@@wakeywarrior yes, that's precisely right. Flexible ISO is great because the lut I loaded in and monitor with is great, so it doesn't look like you are shooting in LOG. That is the only difference... But being able to use this camera at night where almost no other camera in the world at this price point, can do (thanks to slog3) is nice! It's worth tinkering with because of that!
@@BrianCatalano yeah it is wild they filmed the forthcoming The Creator movie with the same sensor as our humble ZVE1. Thank you for your tuition on this subject.
Yes, the 606 is great and the Kinetic in my opinion for creative LUTs, but I use the slog3 conversion LUT first regardless for monitoring...and will either color grade myself or you can slap any of the 5 including from the 606. They are all good
Brilliant this. I'm just learning and not sure if to use auto ISO or just set it at 800 (a6700). If i dont use auto iso then can i use any ISO value between 800 and say 6400 (before it goes too noisy?). The base ISO on mine is 800 and 2500, so is it best to only use those 2 iso values? You mentioned S-Cinetone. Would the same ISO values be used?
Thank you so much, I really appreciate that feedback... And I get that it's confusing deciding when, if ever, to use auto ISO. I personally only use auto if I'm going indoors to outdoors or vice versa...or for casual use, vlogging, etc. Other than that I really try to stay at the base ISOs. However, each camera is different along with each picture profile. With my zve1, I almost always stay at the bases, but with my A7Cii (because it's more limited like the a6700), I just try to stay close to the range... especially in video. In photo, I allow more noise. So with S-Cinetone the base ISOs are different, so with the a6700 it is 125 and 400... But you can probably push it a bit in lowlight if you need. Hope that makes sense and helps!
Amazing. Thankyou. That's great. Have you done any videos showing how you film or your settings? I'm only doing casual stuff and travel videos, so I am probably over thinking it 😂
@@wanderdutts4584 I haven't done a specific video settings video like that per se, especially since I don't own an a6700. However, like I said before, I do think the A7Cii has some similarities as I'd probably use both cameras the same and my settings are here: ruclips.net/video/ApvedaGs-Oo/видео.html Most of my video have a how-to approach, even my reviews, so I imagine you could get something out of any where the title catches your attention. Sorry if that's vague but I try to cover a bunch of topics in each.
That's a great question...and one that doesn't seem to have a clear answer. However, there does seem to be some truth that you get more contrast, after a rec709 conversion, if you are slightly more exposed... But I don't know if that's by 1.7 stops anymore. I will say that monitoring with that LUT helps me expose with my eyes more than the meter nowadays but on sunny days where it's hard to tell, I just make sure I'm not underexposed. Yet, even if I am slightly, slog3 is very forgiving in post. Either way, I've seen so many differing opinions on this by people who know way more than I do, so I just have to trust my eyes and experiment.
Good question! Roughly, the rec709 acts like a gamma assist, in that it is helping you monitor exposure (in slog3) through color, but it is neither accurate nor pleasing as a final look... So with the gamut I can monitor slog3 in camera in an accurate, neutral, and pleasing way AND I can then use that LUT in post, in the edit as my final color grade... As well as I could grade on top of it because it's neutral enough. Now, you could locate Sonys rec709 conversion lut on their website or it may be on your editing software as most have basic rec709 conversions, but if you try to use them in the edit, you will notice the colors are way off or vary wildly unless you're really dialing in your white balance. Yet, it would still need work to get it to a final look. The Phantom luts are probably the best around and you get a few for the price, but it is double the money and their neutral lut looks identical to this one. I've tried a bunch of free luts from random places and am always disappointed... Whereas I have never been let down with this one. I never buy digital products, but as soon as I learned you could load in LUTS I put these in the zve1 on day one--and my fx3!
If I was shooting in slog3 in flexible ISO, I'd still typically only shoot in the base ISOs... and if it was sunny out, and I was at 640 ISO and I want to keep the shutter at 1/50th, I definitely would use a variable ND filter, so as not to overexpose the shot. Yet, it's not something I need in every situation, especially if I'm at the second "native" ISO for lowlight conditions or if I don't care about motion blur. Does that make sense?
Hi, in many tutorials I noticed that we should set sharpening to -7 level for slog3. Is it possible to setup this in flexible ISO option? Or the only way is to use standard slog3?
That's a great question and I had to double check just now, but I don't believe there is a way to reduce the cameras sharpening in flexible ISO mode because the picture profile setting (where you would customize the level of detail or sharpening) is locked and off. That being said, I have/had a bunch of Sony cameras and cameras in general that have more resolution, and I personally find the zve1, fx3 sensor to be in that sweet spot of detail. In slog, I don't personally find it necessary to reduce the detail in-camera. I understand the theory that it may help noise performance in extreme situations, but those are scenarios I hardly ever am faced with... And if I was, I probably wouldn't be in flexible ISO and recording externally (not in slog3 anyway)...or would denoise or unsharpen in post. Yet, if it is something you want, yes you are correct... I'd just use my picture profile setting and use slog3 the standard way to turn the detail down. Hope that helps and thanks for that question!!
@@neveoney7865 honestly either one should, depending on your shooting style, and those ISO levels are so close, that it's negligible. Now, just to note. I actually never put my cameras in, no picture profile. I do shoot in RAW and jpg, but I usually keep my a7c2 in s-cinetone because I do shoot a lot of video as well and the no pp colors are not pleasing to my eye... But in photo, they may resemble RAW more
@@neveoney7865 I wouldn't set the maximum to 400. The A7Cii can be pushed more outside it's base ISOs, especially compared to the zve1/fx3 ... So if you need to go higher you can, as it's a higher megapixel camera there's a case to make that the noise is looks better if you have some noise in the shot. I am most strict in slog3 and with the zve1. The A7Cii has a lot more wiggle room
Yes, the embed lut function only stores the lut info in the metadata... However, if you want to bake in the footage, you actually have to turn off log shooting and then go into your picture profile (with your function button) and switch to the lut that you imported which you can select from after you scroll pass PP11 and your user LUT that you've imported will be there. Select it and it will bake it into your footage. Let me know if this helps!
Hello! Well, that's a good question... But one that I might have difficulty answering as I don't use either auto ISO or the exposure comp because I really try to stay at the base ISOs and I mostly monitor exposure with the Gamut Rec709 LUT. That being said, being in flexible ISO mode won't affect your process, you can still shoot in auto ISO and set your exposure comp to whatever you like. Flexible ISO is just the new mode to shoot slog3 the old way... Hope that makes sense!
damn finally..... i didnt know these, i shoot on 6000 and its so noisy..if i know i just increase it to 12800...thanks so much briannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn
Hi mate, May I ask - what Camera, Lens and ISO were you using at 5:37. and what were you using for those close up shots of your sd card and computer? And do you think you could have achieved the same quality using the zv-e1 and that same lens / iso ?
Hello! Great question, and I believe those shots were either using Sonys 20mm f1.8 or the Rokinon 24mm f1.8 on my Sony A7C shooting in Hlog3 at ISO 125, shutter 1/50, f1.8. I believe I definitely could replicate that shot with zve1 with S-Cinetone at ISO 100 or slog3 at ISO 640 with either of those lenses. The only difference is the A7C has more resolution but is only 8bit. Hope that helps!
@@geodude4real yes, but... I used to do my talking head with either the 20 or the 24, yet if I was using the 20 on the A7C, I would put it in crop mode for better framing and to avoid seeing the edges of my teleprompter, which is what have done in 90% of my videos until recently as I'm selling my A7C. So I was effectively at 30mm. Now I'm shooting my talking head bits with the FX3 and the 24mm f1.8... but I'm still tinkering with composition as I almost prefer the 30mm look.
@@BrianCatalano Just out of curiosity after helping me out so much I actually would rather save some time not grading some footage for some clients . is there an easy option to bake the LUT into the footage so I can take it straight off the SD card and give them the colours?
@@BrianCatalano thank you dude I will try that today, just for reference will turning off the flexible iso feature that we set change anything ? EDIT: infact I believe the comment below addresses that :)
Is it possible to shot slog 3 without flexible ISO on? My 6700 allows me to record slog 3 either with or without flexible iso turned on…I don’t get the difference… Thanks!
Great question... And yes, you can shoot in slog3 by just setting the picture profile or by using flexible ISO. The advantages of flexible ISO are a few, but for me, the reason I use it is because I can load in a rec 709 conversion LUT and monitor in real time the log footage converted. This helps me immensely with exposure. If you just shoot with a picture profile, you are unable to use a monitoring lut. Hope that makes sense!
You should be able to as I do ... So when you're in flexible ISO, on your first main menu page, go to the white balance, down to custom 1, 2, or 3 and you can either set white balance manually or set it by using a gray card and lining up the orange square to the card. Or on page 20/56 in the menu you can access the white balance there to set the same way. Does that make sense?
@@JackyLi that's bizarre. If I were you, I'd take it off flexible ISO and switch to S-Cinetone or any other picture profile and then try to custom set white balance there (which hopefully should work) then flip flexible ISO back on and repeat the process exactly how you did before. Sometimes if it's too dark to pick up the gray card, it doesn't work or if I'm too close to the spot I'm trying to set it to, it won't work, and I'll step back or change the exposure. Maybe try again...
Hello! Did you reformat your card? First, make sure you take all your files off as reformatting will delete all photos and videos, but once you do, those two new folder will be present on the card.
That's a great question and I don't think I have the tools to scientifically test this, but my presumption would be 640 would have less noise because there's less need for noise reduction at that low ISO whereas 12800 is really boosting the signal /sensitivity... But I am unable to see a difference per se nor am I knowledgeable enough to be sure. I apologize that I can't be more helpful here!
It there anyone knows if I use iso 800 on zve1 with flexible iso mode rather than iso 640 will improve a bit? That doesn't make sense if sony changes base iso on fx3/6 with cine ei mode. There must be a reason.
Hello... And good question. Well, I believe what is happening is that the discrepancy in base ISOs in the FX3 and zve1 is simply that Sony wanted to standardize the bases in cine ei between the fx6 and fx3, so they could be used in a multi cam set up... And Sony does this by adjusting noise reduction within the software. So it's less a tolerance of the sensor but a modification done by the camera itself. So with the zve1, it has kept their noise reduction processing so that 640 is the cleanest base ISO and not 800. So personally, I'd keep it in 640 for best results since it's just a software application. If you were able to get RAW out of the camera, and add your own noise reduction, then maybe you could do shoot at 800. Does that make sense?
That's a really cool idea, and something that would probably have to be done with some internal AI denoising software which could happen in a few years, and I'd love that! I imagine though to really increase dynamic range to that level with a new sensor technology that currently doesn't exist (and is way beyond my understanding) but could maybe within something like the Sony A7SV or ZV-E1iii in a few generations! That'd be amazing!!
Hello, I believe it's 800 and 2500 (but that's just from my Google search as I don't have the camera). Yet, that sounds about right for it's dynamic range...
Yes, and great question... You're looking to replicate the cine ei mode like on the FX3 which keeps you in those two modes, and the best way I can think to do that is to set two memory recalls modes. So make M1 mode 640 ISO and then kick it into 12800 and Camera Set. Memory to M2 (or whatever you want), and then you can just toggle fairly quickly between the modes via the touch screen. Does that make sense?
@@squirtle4519 yes, I believe so... I would then recommend controlling exposure with a variable ND or use the aperture (or crank shutter if you need). The only reason I wouldn't reset the ISO (stop and start recording) would be if I was going from indoors to out... and, I'd probably use ND for that. Just curious, what are you shooting?
@@BrianCatalano I am going to have a train trip in Japan. And there are tunnels in the mountains. Haha, just want to maintain the best picture quality!
@@squirtle4519 Ahhh, that makes sense...that is a very difficult and particular challenge. I probably would be using my aperture ring or a really good variable ND and just keep my ISO the same
Great question! The A7CR will not have as good lowlight performance as this sensor. The zve1 (a7s3, fx3, fx6) have a far superior high dynamic range/ISO range. I just received the A7Cii and it is good compared to all other cameras but compared to the zve1, it's mediocre! The zve1 is the best video camera for me in the $2k price range
@@Moment35mm oh yes, sorry I thought you were trying to decide which camera to get... I'm envious of all your megapixels! Yet, the dual native ISO in SLOG3 for the A7CR is 800 and 2500. However, you might be ok going slightly above 2500 and be fine because the noise will be pretty small due to the higher resolution.
I actually forget, but I definitely have and probably did...and it's usually because I forgot to attach my windscreen, so the Adobe AI was the only way I could save the footage. It works sometimes better than other times... What issues are you having?
I one time just totally forgot a mic, so I used the in camera mic, and then it was too far away from my subject, so the adobe ai actually didn't work too well with it, but even when it kind of worked with other things, I just noticed that jitter in the voice, and it always bothered, so now I bring 2 mics everywhere just in case ahahahaha @@BrianCatalano
@@OGPRODDY I completely get that, it's a confusing subject. Just curious, what precisely do you think you are missing that I didn't cover in the video? How ISO works in that mode...or how is it different from Cine EI? Feel free to ask any questions and hopefully I can help answer them for you. Thanks!!
@@BrianCatalano How it’s different from CINE EI like does CINE EI just give you the best iso values so it’s always gonna look good compared to like regular iso when there’s iso values that don’t, cause i’ve been hearing even every 5 shifts to the right up on iso is basically a hidden good iso value for certain cameras and etc. just tryna nail that down and figure that out
I can agree with that in some cases, but I would prefer grain over noise. The dp of the Creator (Batman, Dune, etc) Greig Fraser loves shooting digital and adding grain so it doesn't look boring, and I think he's one of the best in the business!
@@BrianCatalano yeah I’m familiar with Greig. Great guy. My point is not to over obsess about noise. Noise and grain can accomplish the exact same thing. To pleasantly dirty the frame. Cheers
I can understand that... It can all seem unnecessarily complicated. Yet, the truth is, with this camera in particular, you can just pick it up, keep it in auto, and shoot whatever you want. Its great for that too. You can also shoot in the picture profile #11, s-cinetone if you want and not have to worry about color grading or any of that overly complicated stuff. However, this camera also just so happens to be great at shooting at night, but you have to know a few things to get there first which isn't for everybody nor does it though, take much work... But I can still see how it's frustrating as I felt the same way for a long time, so my hope was to try and make it a bit easier to figure out. Either way, I get you...and I wish you luck! Shoot however you like, there's no wrong way to do it!
Thank you very much for this video 😊. I own a ZV-E1 and I am a bit astonished about zebra setting in Slog3 flex-iso. I have to set it to 107+ lower limit to get a correct (+1.7IL) exposure 😵💫 As a matter of fact does not bother me as I tested in all different scenarios from bright daylight to dark rooms both in 640 and 12800 iso and this works for me. Just surprised about the zebra value I have to use and was not expecting. Anyone some feedback about this? TIA 😊
That's a great question and one I'll pin here with hopes that others will chime in, as I probably have a somewhat unorthodox approach, I don't overexpose nor do I use zebras as I monitor with my gamut rec709 lut and just use the histogram to make sure I'm not clipping.
Wow, I don't think I've seen anyone else explain the native ISO like this. Thanks!
Thank you so much... I really appreciate that and happy you found this helpful!!
I was once afraid of shooting in slog3 but now that’s the only way I shoot. Congrats on 2k!
Same, I was too! For me, it was all about having a good rec709 conversion lut, so I could see my footage wasn't going be all washed out... Yeah, now it's hard to go back!
Thank you!
(And you are about to get that 1k! Whatever you doing lately, keep doing that!!)
Thanks for this clear and straight to the point video!
I was lost in a bunch of documentation not really understanding the idea.
And you just cleared things up! You upgraded my brain dynamic range. Thanks!
Ha ha... Great analogy! I feel like most of the time, my brain has low dynamic range too, but with the right cocktail of clean caffeine and neurotropics, I can flip into flexible ISO mode for a very productive 1 hr and 45min and too can almost see in the dark...
And then I revert back to being inflexible, and hangry with high-contrast in a noisy, poor performing world.
But seriously, glad it helped...and appreciate you stopping by to say that!
I’m so used filming at 800iso and adjust parameters. That example of 10k vs 12800iso was great and very convincing. Thank you 🙏
Thank you so much! I know it's crazy how cleaned up the nose reduction jump is between 10,000 to 12,800... It's also interesting to note that Sony changed the base ISO to 800 on my FX3 in cine ei mode, so I'm sure that 800 will still work, but I need to compare those two to see if they are different between cameras.
Thanks again!
@@BrianCatalano Any update on this? Do you consider 640 or 800 the base ISO in both slog3 and PP11?
@@injectionAI still a great question! On my zve1, the base ISO for Slog3 is 640 (as it used to be on the fx3), but after the update, the fx3s is 800 to match the fx6 (even though they all share the same sensor). I haven't found a clear explanation as to why this discrepancy still exists. Yet, for S-Cinetone for all cameras the base ISOs of 100 and 2000 are still the same.
Great video. One fact correction though, the creator was filmed with external monitors and recorded in Raw, not S-Log 3. Somewhat misleading to anyone who doesn’t know better.
Yes, you are, as far as I can tell, completely correct, and I really appreciate you giving me that note respectfully and constructively! Thank you! I initially had (or still have) some confusion on how they monitored their footage and their dailies. There was some mention of converting ProRes RAW to Log (to maintain slog3 metadata) so as to create their own LUT just while shooting, while obviously handing off RAW (not log) to Weta for VFX and/or their colorists who seem to have a very strange post processing procedure altogether to get that look and that grain as Greig Fraser more thoroughly explained with first Dune. However, very different camera there and different look, but similar digital to analog effect.
Regardless, you are right... I should have clarified that... Not to mention the zve1 can't do what my fx3 does and record externally, so that's noteworthy too... and something I should have mentioned!
Thanks again!!
We should be specific in the information we provide. It was recorded in Apple ProRes Raw. There is no such thing as one Raw format, but many implementations
Thanks for this info! I tend to be an “auto” shooter but now that I have the zve1 I want to step up my game :)
You're so welcome... I do think it's a great camera to slowly wade into the deep end with and at least try tinkering in other modes and playing with flexible ISO! It will be worth it.
Best of luck and appreciate you taking the time to comment--thank you!!
Finally I can understand dual base iso! Thank you.
@@zazyczech Brilliant! I'm happy I was able to help... It was confusing for me too for a while!
Thank you for this excellent video sir ! Because of your crystal clear explanations and the images perfectly illustrating your point I finally fully grasp what dynamic range is about and why I would use S-LOG3 as pp in conjunction with a LUT. Having just purchased a Sony 6700 this video came my way just at the right time ! Thanks again, I've subscribed to your channel.
@@michelhuyskens9790 I can't tell you how nice it is to hear this... I appreciate you stopping by and taking the time to comment, and I'm glad you found this helpful (flexible ISO is legit confusing)!
I'm also considering picking up the a6700 as it's an amazing hybrid for the price...
Thanks again!!
You have one of the top camera channels. Well done. Just curious - do you know if/what resolution 1080P is subsampled from ?
@@tennissir1986 that's honestly the best comment I could wake up to... I really appreciate that!! As for how the zve1 comes about it's 1080p, I honestly don't know offhand... and would be googling it (but with "fx3" or "a7s3" as the search term). I imagine it's from the 4.2k, but how it does it precisely (binning or skipping or what software magic they use), I'm not sure... Sorry I can't be more helpful here.
Thanks again!!
Thanks for your video! It is of great value!
Really appreciate that...and glad it was helpful!! Thanks again!
1.Thank you. I am rightly under standing about Luts and sLog easily now because of you.
2.Thank you. Thanks to you, I can understand Luts and sLog easily now.
I'm not good at writing because I'm Korean. It would be helpful if you could choose the sentence you like more.
I really appreciate that!
Number 2 is the most clear.
Thanks again!!
I’ve been waiting for this video. Jumping to slog anything has been terrifying. Just seems like you can easily mess things up. I’ve got some work projects coming up. And I need ti lock it in before I “try it” on the real deal.
I completely understand your hesitancy! Only until I loaded in my slog3 conversion lut from Gamut, I didn't feel comfortable using it as often as I should have... But the monitoring lut took the fear away simply because what I see is what I get. Either way, a little practice goes a long way... Best of luck!!
@@BrianCatalano so quick question, I set up my ZV-E1 eactly how you set it. And I'm using the rec709 800% Lut. But I STILL need to use the rec 709 in post correct? It does not bake into the video right?
@@WhoIsJonHarris yes that is correct, there are ways to bake in other LUTs but it's not recommended, so in post you will have to add a rec709 conversion lut. Most editing softwares have some default ones, called something like Sony slog3. Yet, there's a good chance it won't be great and it's almost easier color correcting yourself or finding a good LUT elsewhere than trying to work with what your given by your software (at least in Premiere for me).
Professor Catalano - so much info - so informative - For the a7c what is the best ISO for shooting video? Congrats on 2k!!!!!
Thank you so much!
For the A7C, since it doesn't have a dual native ISO, I only recommend shooting at the base ISOs. However, there are definitely ways to configure the camera for shooting at night for solid lowlight performance. I know Make Art Now did a whole, viral video on this topic (but with the a73). Yet again, for most instances, I stay at the base ISO which is different per picture profile, so if your picture profile is off (which I've started doing more in the studio because you inspired me), the base is 100. For hlg3 it's 125 and for Slog3 and Slog2, it's 500. So I imagine Slog2 might be the way to go if you want to shoot more at night. Hope that helps...and thanks again!!
Very well explained! You deserve more views and subs!
I just bought the ZV-E1, I moved from the a7c and I'm already loving the ZV more, especially with the 10bit I'm planning on selling the a7c. I think it's better for photos, so I'm still debating myself, I don't see myself going out with two cameras, and my old Nikon D800, with a good old 50mm takes amazing pictures if you know how to use it fully manual.
btw! I was also looking for a comparison with low iso... It's very sunny in Barcelona and my ND filter doesn't go that high sometimes. Maybe you can make another video, explain the lower ISO. Just a thought. Keep publishing!
I really appreciate this! Your comment helps, more than I can express, to fuel me to keep going... Thank you!
Now, I also understand your dilemma here as I just sold my A7C as well and recently came back from a family trip where I only took the zve1 for both video and photo...and am constantly surprised at how nice my photos look! I also get that having the d800 is still a phenomenal tool for photos, and you've got a great combo between both cameras. Yet again, the zve1 in a pinch is a better hybrid camera than it gets credited for...
@@WasabiNoise that's a great idea...and ideally I aim to stay at the lowest base ISO and will crank my shutter up or slow down the aperture when necessary and I don't have a good ND filter with me. I may also, go into s-cinetone for the 100 ISO especially on a bright day... I do think that's a solid idea for a video. (By the by: Barcelona is one of my favorite places in the world. My last name is Italian but it means, "Of Catalan" so my people moved from Barcelona to Sicily like a thousand years ago, but I still feel a connection there. Regardless, beautiful place to shoot pics!)
This is the best video that explains it! If I shoot in S-Cinetone, would I still benefit from the dual base ISO, i.e. getting a cleaner picture at ISO 12800 than at 10000?
Thank you so much! I really appreciate that!! So with S-Cinetone the two base ISOs are 100 and 2000, so I tend to only shoot in those ISOs. Hope that helps!
@@BrianCatalano wow thank you so much!
@@SeanHuangRealEstate you're welcome! Good luck!
How did you get these colours what you have in the clip with a pool behind (0.10 sec of the video) ? I looked at the luts you suggested and they look nothing as good as your footage? They look yellow or gray etc. But your footage looks super great!!!
Hello... That's really interesting, and hard for me to fully figure out without seeing your settings. Yet, in that clip I first put the Gamut LUT on (as is) and then tweaked the colors and exposure to my liking (which honestly was with two sliders in about 5 seconds of effort on premiere pro). That being said, sometimes if I don't nail exposure in camera or my white balance is off (setting white balance is ideal and setting your zebras correctly will help), adding a LUT might not be enough... Yet, often as I did in that pool shot, I had auto white balance and no zebras and the Gamut LUT was perfect.
I'm not sure what editing program you use, but on premiere sometimes I add the conversion lut as a creative lut, so I can raise or lower the strength of it... So I can use that Gamut LUT at 60% strength and then tweak contrast, brightness, saturation, and temperature on my own.
I'm not sure if that helps at all, but very infrequently do I ever just pop a lut on without tinkering with it as well. Does that all make sense?
Thanks for this I never knew what the s709 was a "display" lut. Thanks!!!
I really appreciate it... Thank you! I know, it's nice that they included some display luts that actually are decent, makes shooting in SLOG3 way better!
Omg Brian posted 🥺❤️
I missed this comment the most!!
Great vid... My A6700 shoots 10 bit sLog3 (and thank God it can spit out lo-rez proxy files at the same time!). I'm just wondering, if I want to shoot in 8 bit 4:2:2 if it would be better to just switch off flex-iso and use the DRO? 🤷
the lonely overlander
Thank you... And that's a good and difficult question! I am not sure what I'd do if I was shooting in 8 bit other than shoot in s-cinetone. I'd maybe consider Hlog3 as a possibility to increase dynamic range but the a6700 is the one Sony camera that I haven't played with that I really want to, but I'd probably have to tinker with it myself to see. Sorry if that's not helpful!
Nice explanation. What is your take on shooting HLG3 vs LOG3 especially for high contrast night scenes e.g. downtown night city shooting with bright signs and pitch dark areas? Would love to hear your opinion on that matter.
Thank you and that's a great question!
I only shoot in Hlog3 on my 8bit cameras because I find working in HDR rec2020 more difficult than is necessary (because people may watch your work on an HDR device or in rec709 on a TV, so the discrepancy in look can be jarring).
Yet, of course you can interpret the footage in a rec709 timeline and export as such, but at least with Premiere Pro, I find that HDR footage can look different in-camera, on my editing timeline, and after it has been exported.
I did make a video on coloring 8bit footage:
ruclips.net/video/mz6cIjVAGsA/видео.html
...whereas I convert slog3 to rec709 which will typically look the same across all mediums (phones, TVs, laptops, etc).
Also, on the zve1 (and others that share the sensor) Hlog3s ISOs are 100 and 2000 which happens to be the same as S-Cinetone (which is already rec709), so I'd rather shoot in s-cinetone if it roughly has the same dynamic range.
Now at night, I'd only shoot in slog3 as you have the most lattitude to push and pull colors around to make them as saturated or 'contrasty' as you want. Hlog3 in 10bit cameras do not seem to have any advantage.
That all being said, if you're an expert in color management, which I'm not, there may be reasons to shoot Hlog3 that I'm not aware of... Or if you're trying to match 10bit and 8bit, that may make sense to shoot both in Hlog3 with multiple cameras.
Other than that I'd say slog3 or S-Cinetone are usually the better options.
Hope that helps and doesn't confuse you more... Either way don't hesitate to ask me to clarify.
Thanks again!
Very informative thanks my E1 is coming
I appreciate that... I hope you enjoy this camera as much as I have already!
Now that I have my hands on a7c ii this video is GREAT!!!!!!!!
Ha ha... Thank you! Can't wait to hear your experience with the A7Cii!
Great video Brian! Thanks for sharing your thoughts on SLOG3!! 2K Subs! BOOM!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate that ... do you monitor with the phantom luts? I've been debating buying them, curious what your experiences are.
Any difference between an slog3 PP and the log setting with flexible iso in post production? Is it just the iso that becomes flexible or are there other differences. Trying to decide between those settings and s-cinetone. Weapons my head around all of this.
The reason that I choose flexible ISO mode instead of going into a picture profile and changing the gamma to slog3 and the color mode to s-gamut 3cine, is that you cannot monitor with a LUT. However, you can use gamma assist to help with color, but it's harder to correctly expose that way... So if I'm not shooting in SLOG3 for when I need great lowlight performance, like shooting at night with 12800 ISO, or when I really need flexibility to color grade, slog3 lets you really push colors around, then I shoot in s-cinetone, pp11. In fact that's my default picture profile, so if I turn flexible ISO off, it goes back to pp11 automatically. Both are great options, but for different reasons. Thank you for the question, I should have mentioned this in the video!
@@BrianCatalano what is the reason you say it's harder to expose the correct way. Is it because the zebra dont
behave the same way with gamma assist and with a rec709(800%) display LUT ?
@@maximecaron3133 I was saying that it's hard for me to expose correctly with the naked eye, especially without that specific monitoring display lut on. I'm sure if your zebras are perfectly dialed in and you use a gray card each time you turn on the camera, you probably could just trust your zebras, but to be honest, I don't do that with the zve1. I bought it to just pick up and shoot, but the gray card is probably the best way to go if you have time... Does that make sense?
@@BrianCatalanoPlease, can I somehow use gamma assist (to show imported lut) while shooting in FLEXIBLE ISO?
Great video, thanks for the explanation! :)
Thank you so much, Nick! Really happy you found it helpful!!
Yoooo, great video!!! You answered so many questions all at once!!! Could you please do a video about creating your own luts? That would be great!! Loved this one!!!
Ahhh, thank you! I really appreciate it... Do you typically shoot in SLOG3 or something else with your 10bit cameras?
In this video, towards the end I made a brief tutorial on how I make a LUT, but I probably should make a separate, more succinct video about it:
ruclips.net/video/mz6cIjVAGsA/видео.html
@BrianCatalano I"ll check out the video! Usually, I shoot in S-Cinetone, but I wanted to try using slog3 more. I could never get the exposure right...one video said to expose +2, andother video says to expose +1.7. Is there a science or method for exposing slog3? Ill see what your video says!
@@BrianCatalano And I'm not gonna congratulate you on 2k...I expected this easily for you. I'll congratulate you when you hit 5k, which is coming soon!!!
@@francoismarc3 I really appreciate you acknowledging that... I also haven't celebrated milestones because I'm afraid that it will keep me from moving forward by being satisfied with the past. I'm sure there's some broken logic in there or low self-worth ideations. But when we both hit 5 or 10k, we should definitely get cakes or something and soak it in and then promptly move on!
@BrianCatalano Dude, I love the way you explain things hahaha. "Broken logic..." hahahah Let's get to 10k!!! We got this!!!
Does slog3 really improve low light performance that much? That 2000 vs 12800 iso seems difficult to explain between s-cinetone vs slog3 - what’s that, 4 stops?
The camera isn’t defying physics with slog3, it just seems like you’re getting a flatter profile to start but then having to curve afterwards, which is going to introduce more noise.
It would be interesting to see a test chart as well to compare resolution differences between the dual native isos.
All good questions, and tons of info out there about it, but maybe I'd recommend watching Gerald Undones review of the Sony A7S3 as he charts all that out fairly well if you haven't seen it already. There are many other's out there, more scientific examinations that cover slog3s dynamic range, such as Josh Sattin's slog3 video. Those two should help...
this was an extremely valuable video. thanks bro!
I really appreciate it... I love how the zve1 makes log shooting a lot easier than with most cameras, and Slog3 is such a powerful picture profile that simply turning flexible ISO on, you unleash it's full potential! Thanks again!
Thanks Brian, subscribed. Can I permanenly apply a LUT and export it from the camera?
Thank you so much... And that's a great question with a weird answer... So if when you're in flexible ISO mode, you can turn on "embed lut", however it does not bake it into the footage, so you still have to apply the lut in post. What it does is it embeds the lut into the metadata so you can see it in Sony's proprietary software, Catalyst Browse where you can view it with the Lut on or off. I'm not sure why they do that. In the FX3 there is a way, I believe, to bake in the lut but I have not figured out how to do it in the zv-e1. It may just be something I need to look deeper into, but it's not clear that you can. Hope that helps...and thanks again!
You just turn off flexible ISO and when you go to choose your picture profile, you’ll see an extra 4 options past pp11.
It will show you the first 4 luts you have imported, but you can go into the pp details and change it. All 4 options past pp11 are going to be in S-Log 3, and baked in as soon as you hit record.
@@mirrorlessmemory thank you for that! I really appreciate you explaining this in detail!!
I likely wouldn't have figured it out as it seems like a strange way to have the lut baked in. It would be nice if each picture profile had a toggle on or off/LUT select within the pp menu. Either way, it's good to know we can do it if we need. Thanks again!
Great video. Thanks man!
I really appreciate that... Thank you!!
Thanks for the tutorial. This helped. If that’s your kid, he’s super cute.
I really appreciate that, thanks for letting me know and happy it was helpful! I agree, and I know I'm biased, but I think my boy is pretty cute, too. Thanks again!!
@@BrianCatalano haha! I’m biased to mine too! See you in another video!
Brian, so well explained, thank you so much. Happy subber here.
I really appreciate that... It's hard to know if I'm hitting that sweet spot of not sounding too technical or dumbing things down too much, so it helps hearing that feedback! Thank you!!
Hey Brian !
I've got one question that gives me some headaches today, related to the pinned comment actually.
When I use zebras on Slog 3 with a picture profile (the traditional way) or with the vairable ISO (the new way), the result is totally different while the settings are exactly the same ! I mean, in both cases I use Slog3, S-Gamut3.Cine and gamma assist display r709(800%). With the traditional way my zebras need to be at 94+ while with the new way they have to be set at 109+ for the exact same result !
Any thoughts anyone ?
Btw, thank you for the quality of your videos. Thumb's up for that.
Cheers !
Great question... And thank you!
So... Rec709 (800) is a different tone curve, much higher contrast (so more likely to clip highlights), whereas the rec709 curve is much more shallow preserving more highlights, so it makes sense you'd set your zebras differently per each.
With my monitor lut or s709, I also set my c2 zebra to +94 and may only use 709(800) if I'm trying to monitor for particular color accuracy, but I generally never use it .
Does that make sense?
@@BrianCatalano
Hi Brian,
Thank you for the blazing fast reply. I agree with you that the S709 and the 709(800%) are different curves, that's the reason why I mentionned that I use the exact same settings on both, including the gamma display curve. With the PP and the variable ISO I use S-log3 to 709(800%), not the S709.
Strange enough right ? 😅
@@eclictic3287 oh yes, you're right... That is strange. To be honest, you probably know as much as I do. I found a LUT that works for me and have since turned my brain off on the matter!
@@BrianCatalano Hey Brian. Yes we probably have to live with this crazyness, while I hate leaving something inexplicable behind. But we've gto to keep going for sure. ;)
Thanks for explaining this so clearly
Appreciate you stopping by! That feedback helps more than you know!!
So helpful, thanks so much Brian!
I really appreciate you taking the time to let me know... and glad the video was helpful! Thank you!!
Loved this video!!! So helpful also subbed
Thank you so much... I really appreciate it and happy you found it helpful! Cheers!!
Isn't it native base iso 800 and 12800 as said in the sony website?
The base ISO changes depending on the cine ei mode and camera you are using... This changed recently when they updated the FX3 to align with the FX6 (all 3 share the same sensor) from 640 to 800. There doesn't seem to be a clearly defined reason why and how. However, in Flexible ISO mode on the zve1 you can still use the original base ISO of 640. On my fx3 in cine ei it's 800, so more confusing than necessary. Regardless, if you have the zve1, it's 640 in flexible ISO.
Great question!
What’s the difference between this method and picture profiles?
@@post-man23 the main benefit is that you can use monitoring LUTs, which for me is the only way I can expose properly (and quickly)
@ thanks for the reply.
hey brian. any difference in using a picture profile to set up slog3 vs the log shooting mode setting? trying to learn this zve1!!
The main difference really has to do with, from what I can gather, how you can monitor in-camera (ish)... So in flexible ISO, you can load in a conversion LUT of your choice. I use Gamuts slog3. However, it will also be a LUT within your picture profile so I think technically speaking you can use the slog3, as is, as a picture profile... or you can monitor with a lut also from a separate picture from that was imported by the user--outside of flexible ISO.
So then, I think the sole differences may come to how you embed luts or bake them in...
That all being said, I find the flexible ISO mode easiest for me because it's all confusing, and I am now used to the new main menu screen.
I don't know if I helped clarify that at all...
@@BrianCatalano haha yeah. this helped a bit!! i have been trying to put the log shooting “on”setting on either my fn menu or a mapped button. but it seems you cant right?
@@ccamilodonneys yes, you are right...you can't. Yet, I wonder if you can make a custom button setting or a memory recall setting on the mode dial, but might not be that much faster!
Cheers so much I think I'm starting to get the hang of it 😂❤
Amazing!! I'm glad as it's tricky at first but well worth the effort... Thanks!!
One thing about shooting in Slog you need to be near base or expanded ISO otherwise it looks like crap. I didn't realise this at first. Then I keep it near one of the two bases and it does look good.Too much effort though for run and gun vacation/ Vlog etc.Is there less noise on Flexible ISO rather than just using the Slog picture profile? Still a lot of effort and chance of mistakes outside the controlled environment.
Yes, you are right about all that... I use slog3 in flexible ISO at only 640 or 12800 in manual or aperture priority mode so I can lock ISO. I then regulate exposure mostly with my shutter. The advantage of using flexible ISO and not just slog3 on a picture profile is that I can monitor with a lut which helps with exposure. Again, at those two ISOs, you should get very minimal noise. The most ideal situation is you stay at the base ISO 640 and light accordingly... Unless you are in a lowlight condition.
However, if you want a casual picture profile, just shoot in s-cinetone (PP11) at ISO 100 or 2000. It's great, neutral colors straight out of camera... Those are the only two settings I use.
Hope that helps!
@@BrianCatalano thanks for the detailed reply. So shooting in flexible ISO just has the advantage you can put the lut on rather than any noise advantage etc? I stick to S Cinetone but last night I did a test in the dark in the street and if you expose it right the Slog3 looks great. Too much to go wrong for me thought!😂
@@wakeywarrior yes, that's precisely right. Flexible ISO is great because the lut I loaded in and monitor with is great, so it doesn't look like you are shooting in LOG. That is the only difference... But being able to use this camera at night where almost no other camera in the world at this price point, can do (thanks to slog3) is nice! It's worth tinkering with because of that!
@@BrianCatalano yeah it is wild they filmed the forthcoming The Creator movie with the same sensor as our humble ZVE1. Thank you for your tuition on this subject.
Hi which Lut from Gamut to buy for overall pleasing imagery, why not the 606 ?
Yes, the 606 is great and the Kinetic in my opinion for creative LUTs, but I use the slog3 conversion LUT first regardless for monitoring...and will either color grade myself or you can slap any of the 5 including from the 606. They are all good
Brilliant this. I'm just learning and not sure if to use auto ISO or just set it at 800 (a6700). If i dont use auto iso then can i use any ISO value between 800 and say 6400 (before it goes too noisy?). The base ISO on mine is 800 and 2500, so is it best to only use those 2 iso values?
You mentioned S-Cinetone. Would the same ISO values be used?
Thank you so much, I really appreciate that feedback... And I get that it's confusing deciding when, if ever, to use auto ISO. I personally only use auto if I'm going indoors to outdoors or vice versa...or for casual use, vlogging, etc. Other than that I really try to stay at the base ISOs. However, each camera is different along with each picture profile. With my zve1, I almost always stay at the bases, but with my A7Cii (because it's more limited like the a6700), I just try to stay close to the range... especially in video. In photo, I allow more noise.
So with S-Cinetone the base ISOs are different, so with the a6700 it is 125 and 400... But you can probably push it a bit in lowlight if you need.
Hope that makes sense and helps!
Amazing. Thankyou. That's great. Have you done any videos showing how you film or your settings? I'm only doing casual stuff and travel videos, so I am probably over thinking it 😂
@@wanderdutts4584 I haven't done a specific video settings video like that per se, especially since I don't own an a6700. However, like I said before, I do think the A7Cii has some similarities as I'd probably use both cameras the same and my settings are here: ruclips.net/video/ApvedaGs-Oo/видео.html
Most of my video have a how-to approach, even my reviews, so I imagine you could get something out of any where the title catches your attention. Sorry if that's vague but I try to cover a bunch of topics in each.
Brian what's when shooting in Slog3 do you over expose between 1.7 to 2 stops over, or is it no longer necessary on newer Sony cameras?
That's a great question...and one that doesn't seem to have a clear answer. However, there does seem to be some truth that you get more contrast, after a rec709 conversion, if you are slightly more exposed... But I don't know if that's by 1.7 stops anymore. I will say that monitoring with that LUT helps me expose with my eyes more than the meter nowadays but on sunny days where it's hard to tell, I just make sure I'm not underexposed. Yet, even if I am slightly, slog3 is very forgiving in post. Either way, I've seen so many differing opinions on this by people who know way more than I do, so I just have to trust my eyes and experiment.
@@BrianCatalano Thanks so much for such a detailed response Brian. Very helpful indeed mate.
@@hotel3sixty64 brilliant... glad I could help!
Great video!
Thank you so much!! I really appreciate it!
What are more reasons to use the gamut rec. 709 over the stock one? Why spend more?
Good question! Roughly, the rec709 acts like a gamma assist, in that it is helping you monitor exposure (in slog3) through color, but it is neither accurate nor pleasing as a final look... So with the gamut I can monitor slog3 in camera in an accurate, neutral, and pleasing way AND I can then use that LUT in post, in the edit as my final color grade... As well as I could grade on top of it because it's neutral enough.
Now, you could locate Sonys rec709 conversion lut on their website or it may be on your editing software as most have basic rec709 conversions, but if you try to use them in the edit, you will notice the colors are way off or vary wildly unless you're really dialing in your white balance. Yet, it would still need work to get it to a final look.
The Phantom luts are probably the best around and you get a few for the price, but it is double the money and their neutral lut looks identical to this one.
I've tried a bunch of free luts from random places and am always disappointed... Whereas I have never been let down with this one.
I never buy digital products, but as soon as I learned you could load in LUTS I put these in the zve1 on day one--and my fx3!
You sir are the man!! Thank you!!
I really appreciate it... Thank you for the idea!!
Do you need to use ND filter when in Flexible ISO mode? It doesn't seem to do much to the image except only changing the ISO value...
If I was shooting in slog3 in flexible ISO, I'd still typically only shoot in the base ISOs... and if it was sunny out, and I was at 640 ISO and I want to keep the shutter at 1/50th, I definitely would use a variable ND filter, so as not to overexpose the shot. Yet, it's not something I need in every situation, especially if I'm at the second "native" ISO for lowlight conditions or if I don't care about motion blur. Does that make sense?
Hi, in many tutorials I noticed that we should set sharpening to -7 level for slog3. Is it possible to setup this in flexible ISO option? Or the only way is to use standard slog3?
That's a great question and I had to double check just now, but I don't believe there is a way to reduce the cameras sharpening in flexible ISO mode because the picture profile setting (where you would customize the level of detail or sharpening) is locked and off. That being said, I have/had a bunch of Sony cameras and cameras in general that have more resolution, and I personally find the zve1, fx3 sensor to be in that sweet spot of detail. In slog, I don't personally find it necessary to reduce the detail in-camera. I understand the theory that it may help noise performance in extreme situations, but those are scenarios I hardly ever am faced with... And if I was, I probably wouldn't be in flexible ISO and recording externally (not in slog3 anyway)...or would denoise or unsharpen in post.
Yet, if it is something you want, yes you are correct... I'd just use my picture profile setting and use slog3 the standard way to turn the detail down. Hope that helps and thanks for that question!!
Can you also tell me the base ISO values and the two SLOG3 and Cinetone ISO values for the Sony 7 Cii?
Hello... Yes;
S-Log3 - 800, 3200
S-Cinetone - 125, 500
No Picture Profile - 100, 400
@@BrianCatalano Thank you! For no picture profile is the best value 100 or 400 for the best quality? One of these two?
@@BrianCatalano For the quality it is better to set 100 or 400 depending on the light, instead of auto and minimum 100 and maximum 400?
@@neveoney7865 honestly either one should, depending on your shooting style, and those ISO levels are so close, that it's negligible.
Now, just to note. I actually never put my cameras in, no picture profile. I do shoot in RAW and jpg, but I usually keep my a7c2 in s-cinetone because I do shoot a lot of video as well and the no pp colors are not pleasing to my eye... But in photo, they may resemble RAW more
@@neveoney7865 I wouldn't set the maximum to 400. The A7Cii can be pushed more outside it's base ISOs, especially compared to the zve1/fx3 ... So if you need to go higher you can, as it's a higher megapixel camera there's a case to make that the noise is looks better if you have some noise in the shot. I am most strict in slog3 and with the zve1. The A7Cii has a lot more wiggle room
I just dont see any diference when I embed ON/OFF.... what is it?
Yes, the embed lut function only stores the lut info in the metadata... However, if you want to bake in the footage, you actually have to turn off log shooting and then go into your picture profile (with your function button) and switch to the lut that you imported which you can select from after you scroll pass PP11 and your user LUT that you've imported will be there. Select it and it will bake it into your footage. Let me know if this helps!
@@BrianCatalano yeah, works. Thanks!!!!!
@@Pontcher you're welcome!
Where can I find that glitch affect? Do you use in your video?
I use Envato Elements for my stock assets, and it's called Dope Transitions, which within it has a whole bunch of glitch effects.
I typically have slog3 on with auto ISO and exposure comp set to 1.3, do I need the exposure comp if I use flexible iSO?
Hello! Well, that's a good question... But one that I might have difficulty answering as I don't use either auto ISO or the exposure comp because I really try to stay at the base ISOs and I mostly monitor exposure with the Gamut Rec709 LUT. That being said, being in flexible ISO mode won't affect your process, you can still shoot in auto ISO and set your exposure comp to whatever you like. Flexible ISO is just the new mode to shoot slog3 the old way... Hope that makes sense!
damn finally..... i didnt know these, i shoot on 6000 and its so noisy..if i know i just increase it to 12800...thanks so much briannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn
You're so welcome!! It's crazy what a difference being in the right ISO can make!
Hi mate,
May I ask - what Camera, Lens and ISO were you using at 5:37. and what were you using for those close up shots of your sd card and computer? And do you think you could have achieved the same quality using the zv-e1 and that same lens / iso ?
PS Thank you so much for this video. You're a great teacher
Hello! Great question, and I believe those shots were either using Sonys 20mm f1.8 or the Rokinon 24mm f1.8 on my Sony A7C shooting in Hlog3 at ISO 125, shutter 1/50, f1.8. I believe I definitely could replicate that shot with zve1 with S-Cinetone at ISO 100 or slog3 at ISO 640 with either of those lenses. The only difference is the A7C has more resolution but is only 8bit. Hope that helps!
@@geodude4real thank you so much! That means way more than I can express... I really appreciate it!!
Thank you@@BrianCatalano . So the footage of you sitting and talking to camera was also the 20 or 24mm ?
@@geodude4real yes, but... I used to do my talking head with either the 20 or the 24, yet if I was using the 20 on the A7C, I would put it in crop mode for better framing and to avoid seeing the edges of my teleprompter, which is what have done in 90% of my videos until recently as I'm selling my A7C. So I was effectively at 30mm. Now I'm shooting my talking head bits with the FX3 and the 24mm f1.8... but I'm still tinkering with composition as I almost prefer the 30mm look.
thanks for the advice dude!
Appreciate that, and happy this helped... thanks for stopping by to let me know!!
@@BrianCatalano Just out of curiosity after helping me out so much I actually would rather save some time not grading some footage for some clients . is there an easy option to bake the LUT into the footage so I can take it straight off the SD card and give them the colours?
@@iSmileFX check this explanation out, let me know if this makes sense: ruclips.net/video/2eN9st09DKs/видео.htmlsi=_GmSTvcoKXwHI4de
@@BrianCatalano thank you dude I will try that today, just for reference will turning off the flexible iso feature that we set change anything ? EDIT: infact I believe the comment below addresses that :)
@@iSmileFX you're welcome... Best of luck!
Is it possible to shot slog 3 without flexible ISO on?
My 6700 allows me to record slog 3 either with or without flexible iso turned on…I don’t get the difference…
Thanks!
Great question... And yes, you can shoot in slog3 by just setting the picture profile or by using flexible ISO. The advantages of flexible ISO are a few, but for me, the reason I use it is because I can load in a rec 709 conversion LUT and monitor in real time the log footage converted. This helps me immensely with exposure. If you just shoot with a picture profile, you are unable to use a monitoring lut. Hope that makes sense!
The problem with flexible iso is I can't change my custom white balance...not sure why?
You should be able to as I do ... So when you're in flexible ISO, on your first main menu page, go to the white balance, down to custom 1, 2, or 3 and you can either set white balance manually or set it by using a gray card and lining up the orange square to the card. Or on page 20/56 in the menu you can access the white balance there to set the same way.
Does that make sense?
@@BrianCatalano yes I see the option to custom change the temp but when I do the image doesn’t change color at all. Idk what’s going on 😅
@@JackyLi that's bizarre. If I were you, I'd take it off flexible ISO and switch to S-Cinetone or any other picture profile and then try to custom set white balance there (which hopefully should work) then flip flexible ISO back on and repeat the process exactly how you did before. Sometimes if it's too dark to pick up the gray card, it doesn't work or if I'm too close to the spot I'm trying to set it to, it won't work, and I'll step back or change the exposure. Maybe try again...
hey how are you ? i don't have SONY and PRO in my private section on my SD card its normal ?
Hello! Did you reformat your card? First, make sure you take all your files off as reformatting will delete all photos and videos, but once you do, those two new folder will be present on the card.
Hope that makes sense...
Thanks 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Very helpful…
Thanks for stopping by to say that... Really appreciate it!
So if you change cards. Are the luts still there?
Yes, as soon as you import it, it's then stored in the camera. Good question!
When shooting SLOG3, does the 12800 ISO have more noise than 640? Both are native ISO, but I am wondering if the noise level would be different.
That's a great question and I don't think I have the tools to scientifically test this, but my presumption would be 640 would have less noise because there's less need for noise reduction at that low ISO whereas 12800 is really boosting the signal /sensitivity... But I am unable to see a difference per se nor am I knowledgeable enough to be sure. I apologize that I can't be more helpful here!
@@BrianCatalano Thank you!
It there anyone knows if I use iso 800 on zve1 with flexible iso mode rather than iso 640 will improve a bit? That doesn't make sense if sony changes base iso on fx3/6 with cine ei mode. There must be a reason.
Hello... And good question.
Well, I believe what is happening is that the discrepancy in base ISOs in the FX3 and zve1 is simply that Sony wanted to standardize the bases in cine ei between the fx6 and fx3, so they could be used in a multi cam set up... And Sony does this by adjusting noise reduction within the software. So it's less a tolerance of the sensor but a modification done by the camera itself. So with the zve1, it has kept their noise reduction processing so that 640 is the cleanest base ISO and not 800. So personally, I'd keep it in 640 for best results since it's just a software application. If you were able to get RAW out of the camera, and add your own noise reduction, then maybe you could do shoot at 800. Does that make sense?
that 640 12800 is the key. thanks mate
You're so welcome, glad you found it helpful! It's amazing having that dual ISO!
That is the next improvement Sony should work on - to get all ISOs clean. Don't think it should be such a big deal
That's a really cool idea, and something that would probably have to be done with some internal AI denoising software which could happen in a few years, and I'd love that!
I imagine though to really increase dynamic range to that level with a new sensor technology that currently doesn't exist (and is way beyond my understanding) but could maybe within something like the Sony A7SV or ZV-E1iii in a few generations! That'd be amazing!!
What's the native ISO for the a6700?
Hello, I believe it's 800 and 2500 (but that's just from my Google search as I don't have the camera). Yet, that sounds about right for it's dynamic range...
@@BrianCatalano thanks 🙏 helpful vid btw!
@@kyosalvador8778 really appreciate that!!
Thank you so much
You're so welcome... Glad you found it helpful!
Hi. Are there any quick switch in between dual ISO? is it possible to jump from 640 to 12800 while recording?
Yes, and great question... You're looking to replicate the cine ei mode like on the FX3 which keeps you in those two modes, and the best way I can think to do that is to set two memory recalls modes. So make M1 mode 640 ISO and then kick it into 12800 and Camera Set. Memory to M2 (or whatever you want), and then you can just toggle fairly quickly between the modes via the touch screen. Does that make sense?
@@BrianCatalano Thanks for your reply! But if I set to memory recalls, does it mean I need to stop recording before I switch to M1 or M2?
@@squirtle4519 yes, I believe so... I would then recommend controlling exposure with a variable ND or use the aperture (or crank shutter if you need). The only reason I wouldn't reset the ISO (stop and start recording) would be if I was going from indoors to out... and, I'd probably use ND for that. Just curious, what are you shooting?
@@BrianCatalano I am going to have a train trip in Japan. And there are tunnels in the mountains. Haha, just want to maintain the best picture quality!
@@squirtle4519 Ahhh, that makes sense...that is a very difficult and particular challenge. I probably would be using my aperture ring or a really good variable ND and just keep my ISO the same
Will Sony a7cr have the same optimal iso?
Great question! The A7CR will not have as good lowlight performance as this sensor. The zve1 (a7s3, fx3, fx6) have a far superior high dynamic range/ISO range. I just received the A7Cii and it is good compared to all other cameras but compared to the zve1, it's mediocre! The zve1 is the best video camera for me in the $2k price range
@@BrianCatalanoThank you for your answer I'm using Flexible iso, cine slog3, is there any way to know the best iso for a7cr?
@@Moment35mm oh yes, sorry I thought you were trying to decide which camera to get... I'm envious of all your megapixels! Yet, the dual native ISO in SLOG3 for the A7CR is 800 and 2500.
However, you might be ok going slightly above 2500 and be fine because the noise will be pretty small due to the higher resolution.
Thank you for your kind reply It helped me a lot
@@Moment35mm you're so welcome... Good luck!
thankyou!
You're welcome!!
The Creator was shot in ProResRaw
Yes, you are correct! ProRes RAW & Slog-3/S-Gamut3.Cine!
The creator movie was recorded on raw externally...
Yes, you are correct!!
you 100 percent used the ai audio editor didn't you? My videos had the same audio issues.
at the beginning
I actually forget, but I definitely have and probably did...and it's usually because I forgot to attach my windscreen, so the Adobe AI was the only way I could save the footage. It works sometimes better than other times... What issues are you having?
@@BrysonKelschFilms good ears!
I one time just totally forgot a mic, so I used the in camera mic, and then it was too far away from my subject, so the adobe ai actually didn't work too well with it, but even when it kind of worked with other things, I just noticed that jitter in the voice, and it always bothered, so now I bring 2 mics everywhere just in case ahahahaha @@BrianCatalano
@@BrysonKelschFilms ha ha... That's smart! I still haven't learned my lesson!!
what does flexible iso do on the ZV-E1?
I see what it does on the FX3 but i’m not sure about the ZV-E1 someone let me know!
lol, just need more depth within the ISO topic
@@OGPRODDY so flexible ISO works exactly the same on the zve1 as it does the fx3
@@OGPRODDY I completely get that, it's a confusing subject. Just curious, what precisely do you think you are missing that I didn't cover in the video? How ISO works in that mode...or how is it different from Cine EI? Feel free to ask any questions and hopefully I can help answer them for you.
Thanks!!
@@BrianCatalano How it’s different from CINE EI like does CINE EI just give you the best iso values so it’s always gonna look good compared to like regular iso when there’s iso values that don’t, cause i’ve been hearing even every 5 shifts to the right up on iso is basically a hidden good iso value for certain cameras and etc. just tryna nail that down and figure that out
An image without noise can be very boring
I can agree with that in some cases, but I would prefer grain over noise.
The dp of the Creator (Batman, Dune, etc) Greig Fraser loves shooting digital and adding grain so it doesn't look boring, and I think he's one of the best in the business!
@@BrianCatalano yeah I’m familiar with Greig. Great guy. My point is not to over obsess about noise. Noise and grain can accomplish the exact same thing. To pleasantly dirty the frame. Cheers
@@injectionAI that's fair and a good point... I know I've fallen victim to being overly concerned with noise, so I appreciate that reminder!
@@BrianCatalano thanks. Me too! Great video btw 👏🏼👏🏼
everything about modern filmmaking sucks! I just wanna pick up a camera and shoot! Not all this bullsh*t!
I can understand that... It can all seem unnecessarily complicated. Yet, the truth is, with this camera in particular, you can just pick it up, keep it in auto, and shoot whatever you want. Its great for that too.
You can also shoot in the picture profile #11, s-cinetone if you want and not have to worry about color grading or any of that overly complicated stuff.
However, this camera also just so happens to be great at shooting at night, but you have to know a few things to get there first which isn't for everybody nor does it though, take much work... But I can still see how it's frustrating as I felt the same way for a long time, so my hope was to try and make it a bit easier to figure out.
Either way, I get you...and I wish you luck! Shoot however you like, there's no wrong way to do it!