Thanks for sharing this my friend. I was having issues with my car, cel light on and codes p0132 and p0152, it was driving me crazy, I never thought that the rear 02 sensors would be the cause of the problem. You just saved me lots of money,time and headache. Highly appreciate you. Thanks 🙏. Oh, and I was already subbed to your channel. Just like it.👍🏻
@@alltsab it did fix my problem, that why I post this comment. You gave the clue with your video. One of my rear sensor broke as soon I disconnect it and one pin was corrode. I buy a new sensor and now the car is running like it should. All 4 sensors with good readings and also the fuel trims as well. Thank you so much again.👍🏻 .
Dang hopefully that works for me as well I've been driving my 04 ram for 6years with the same problem p0152 and p0132. I spent lots of money on replacing O2 sensors and no fix. This video is very well put together I hope this fixes mine as well. I'll keep updated
@@alltsab wow - it was like walking with dim hope in the dark times. Sometimes the generic codes don't always pinpoint 100% to that specified cause directly, but can be the indirect cause of something else - like with your friend's whose SUV car ignition coil packs were the indirect cause of the code... Weird. It takes more than a mechanic's eye to determine the cause.
That's why you have to diagnosis. If you don't you have to blindfold to spend a lot money to fix it and still not solving the problems. Newer car it's hard to fix because too many sensors. Sometimes obd2 still not directly to the problem and still confused which and what to fix.
@@alltsab You right. It's a 04 Lexus gs300 I'm rebuilding it, so I was going to change those things anyway. The second set of o2 sensors is when I decided to buy a XTOOL D8 and it actually showed me where the vacuum leak was coming from ( I actually let XTOOL techs do it lol ) doing an EVAP system check.
@@ex8280 One is wireless, one is not lol. Not being sarcastic but that's really the only difference. I guess Bluetooth is better for outside the car diagnostics such as doing actuation test which one needs to hear the mechanism working like injectors.
Like A. Jean Stroud said you have to clear the code, then also drive it about 50 miles so the oxygen sensor and ecu can get reacquainted with each other.
@@Rasenchidori1398: Beautiful. That statement was spot on from beginning to end. There is no rationalizing that this amount of grief, money, labored time is worth it, yet we need our cars. Makes me want to go back to riding horses for transportation. Back then, if your horse broke down, you just took out your pistol and shot him.
I dont even know how i came accross this video but i have a 05 4 runner with same issue throwing p0158 everytime even after cat and sensor was replaced very informative ill check on those coils and swap 02 sensors
Update Swapping sensors caused the error code to change banks this car been kicking my ass for months I was about to order a computer gladness came accross this video
Thank you! I've been having same issues with my 06 Subaru Forester I'm just going to replace both O2 sensors now and then go from there. Great video. 👍
@@PR-nq4dt well after replacing both 02 with the same manufacturer I still was getting a code so went on some Subaru forms and figured out for some reason those years Subaru does not like shitty ethanol gas I put Sheetz gas in it one day car ran like crap codes running Lean. I put Shell gas in the week after codes went off car ran fine and been running fine sense. 🤣 So Don't put cheap gas in Subaru it only likes name band less ethanol gas. Hope this helps you out.
You sound right i have a coil bad and o2 bad after getting new cats but the coil been bad its the 3 way pigtail plug flex fuel connector. i will be replacing that tomorrow
I changed my upstream o2 sensor today bank 1 but its an aftermarket sensor im also having a random misfire code on a 03 Chevy Avalanche i have subbed i found this helpful
Thank you thank you thank you i love you i have been chasing this fault myself for about 3 weeks i have had a migraine headache over this i dont get headaches and useslly pretty calm and collected but man i liaten to you it was 10 at night when i watched your vid.i went back out and fid just what you said and it workexd so thank from thr bottom of my hrart
Thankyou i believe this is my problem. Im gonna show my mechanic at auto electric shop cuz I cant get anyone to figure it out yet. My car bank 2 sensor 1 check code check engine light on replaced it twice after transmission renewed 2 mis ago from dealer. I hope its just a faulty ignition coil stinking up causing the sensor to pick up stinky and check engine come on. Thankyou. Where is your shop? Maybe I come to you if after this only gets reset and check engine comes back on. You have made sense and im not depressed and not anxious. Much prayers now. Wish me luck brother! Great upload. Please do more.
P1130 AND P1135 at the same time on the V6 Camry. 6 years ago it was intermittent, check engine light comes on for 100 miles then automatically off for another 100 miles. It was on an endless on and off cycle forever, making a rush for smog check when its off. Then this past 18 months light stays on without automatically resets. I have a DENSO on order, it's my 4th one for Bank 1 Sensor 1. I think the last two DENSOS were fakes although the check engine light came off for the first few months. Funny it performs like new, very smooth and no lost in performance independent of on or off light.
Wow very hard to find it so some times we have to do it little extras thinks Obdulia some times is wrong do not give ever think 100% good job congratulations bro god bless you
thank you bro for giving me enlightment in the darkness...i am having same issu...been headache for ages...wasting time wasting money replacing new upstream oxygen sensor couple of times for both top, the code keep coming back..now am gonna try your solution...wish me luck! btw i hv subscribed and liked your video!
Wow, I am having the same problem with my 05 4runner. I had change my driver manifold including a new upstream o2 sensor and it is throwing p0031/p0051 code from both bank 1 and bank 2. I will try changing out the 2nd o2 sensor to see if it works. What a headache.. thanks uncle. I'll try it.
FYI ... I found out today that accidentally leaving one of the hoses on the intake near the air filter disconnected after changing the air filter will throw the exact code for this bank1 sensor2 O2 sensor failure my torque app said the light was on for 'o2 sensor slow to respond' ... instantly fixed by fixing the disconnected hose on the side of the intake tube if you have this code for bank1 sensor 2, first check all of the hoses that attach to the intake before digging into this O2 sensor repair - especially if you've recently had the air filter out if writing this helps at least one person it's worth it
I took my 2008 highlander in for oil change and the guy opened up my air filter to check. Next day check engine light turned on for P0031. I looked over everything, all connected, replaced O2 sensor and still light will not go away. What should I check next?
My 2003 Ford Mustang keeps throwing P0153 for Bank 2 sensor 1 slow to respond. I replaced upstream with a Ford Motorcraft O2 sensor. The code still came back. I don’t have cats and using MIL eliminators. I’ve been to the exhaust shop twice to check for an exhaust leak, and now you are making me think I may wanna check my downstream O2 sensor since it’s the original with 131,000 miles.
Did that end up fixing your problem? I gutted the cats, and put non fouler plugs on my 02 sensors towards the back. But I'm getting a bank 1 sensor 1 lean code.
I’ll check that tomorrow. I just replaced both up and downstream o2 sensors on my matrix xrs and the engine light came back on. I have a second xrs. 😂 ima swap the coils and see if that works. 👍
I have found cheap fuel causes a lot O2 sensor problems even when the O2 sensor is working properly. I like Chevron gasoline with Techron additive. I also use SeaFoam to clean out my fuel and emissions system.
Thanks, I have a 2004 sienna. I ordered 3 upstream bank 1 sensors. lucky for me, i ordered from amazon and returned them. =D I will try the downstream sensor, then if that doesn't work. Change coils and plugs.
Excellent. Thank You. I'm getting codes for both upstream sensors. I replaced all 4 and still get codes for both upstream sensors. So I can't really swap the back sensors. Not sure what to do at this point.
Figure this is worth a shot- 03 dakota R/T, been chasing down a p0138 p0141. Replaced downstream sensor is oem mopar, new injectors, fuel pump, plugs, wires, coil, dist cap. (Old parts needed to be replaced anyways) but code remains. Garage I brought it too says circuit is ok, fuel control isn’t working on bank 1 of the motor? They quoted me another $540 to just diagnose the problem. Have had a few vaccum leak tests done all saying no leak, as well as replaced intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets. Also the CEL will come on and then go off for a few drive cycles and then reappear. Tried swapping wires of the downstream sensors and problem remained. Anything helps god bless
Very interesting. I have a 2015 Toyota Corolla and then I’ve had a lot going on recently I have 443,871 miles on the car I’m the original owner and I’ve taken pretty good care of it up until last year and a half Money became an issue So I wasn’t on top of things But my car started bucking whenever I wanted to give it gas. If I gave it a little extra push, it would start bogging the track off light would come on, and I essentially wouldn’t really be able to drive it more than like 10 mph until I could pull over. First time that happened I turned the key off and I removed the key from ignition. I put it back in a couple minutes and cranked it over and it went back to normal. Things were going bad on my car. I was throwing codes for misfire on three and four. Those were replaced recently months ago I had Code replaced the coil and the spark plug on that one. Well, it turns out since it is an all electrical car that there were many My brakes for one there were times where I didn’t think I was gonna be able to stop. Yes, I needed new rotors and pads and those were replaced but I still was having this issue where it seemed like I was struggling to stop my car. Turns out it was my alternator, and I believe it was my PCV valve because that had never been changed So when we were in there changing it, we realize that all the vacuum hoses were cracked All of them were replaced, except for one that one actually connects the other end through the vacuum hose or line to the sensor, which I just replaced, which is the purge valve That is malfunctioning the brand new one just like the old one It’s giving a rat noise and at first it was kind of slow and now it’s really sped up My car will buck even when I have my foot on the break So I went to one of the parts stores and had them run a scan on it after all this had been done, and it comes up with code 4020 which indicates quite a few things for 2015 Toyota Corolla When we were in there, changing the PCV valve, we should’ve replaced the O-rings on the fuel injectors that never got done, and I had no control over it even though it’s an inexpensive replacement Because of financial issues My son was the one who was supposed to get the O-rings because his friend is very Mechanic landline and was doing the majority of the work and walking him through what needed done and he just decided he wasn’t going to get them even they’re only like two dollars So I feel like that needed to be done and wasn’t but the code that it’s throwing could be something to do with the temperature so this could be a solenoid, possibly or something of that nature in my opinion gas cap they took off and they listed in the gas tank, and there were something unusual, but no one ever bothered to fill me in with that meant Needless to say, it comes up as the catalytic converter Now somebody here on RUclips said that if you’re getting a code for P4020 don’t think you can replace the sensors meaning the O2 sensor, upstream and downstream and that that’s going to correct the He says what the problem is, is actually the catalytic converter and that’s what needs That’s not cheap And it’s out of my financial Then again, so the sensors But sometime ago, when I had codes ran on this car when it originally threw the check engine light, which is over a year ago it said it was downstream sensor under the hood, which is up against the firewall Ideally in my humble opinion, both sensors would have to be replaced at the same time, but I’m almost positive it through an sensor and I think that is under the hood also because there’s another one down by the charcoal canister I just don’t have anybody to help me sort it out, and I am not mechanically inclined as I wish I was My son seems to think it’s jerking, and it is a misfire even though that’s not how the computer is reading it Which is why I find this video so interesting Because all of my coils are essentially brand new, and so are all my spark plugs, so they were not done at the same exact time Yet I had a mechanic, tell me that when I bought my coil, and even though it was brand new that it might be a fail when you buy anything off-line like that that could be the case, but then parts stores do the same thing and so when you walk into a store and buy some thing from them, there’s no guarantee that that’s gonna be good either That’s what they were gonna do with my hoses. Make us wait two weeks for the vacuum hoses and order them online just like we did so we bypassed them and ordered the ones that were available the one that I need for the vacuum line which wasn’t replaced and the hose is cracked And connect to the sensor that’s malfunctioning which is brand new cannot be sourced anywhere, but Toyota and even though it’s not a very big hose it’s probably going to have a big price tag And of course, I’m sure that has a lot to do with it even though the person who worked on my car said it really shouldn’t make a difference at all if it was replaced, I would feel much better, but there is a hose on the other end of the vacuum line which connects to the sensor and I noticed that that little piece that little tiny hose which connects to the sensor and then connects to the vacuum line is very hard and brittle and even though I can’t see a crack in it it’s flared at the end that connects to the sensor, so I’m wondering if there’s some type of a leak there and that that is creating the issue It’s too much and not having anyone to help me sort it out has been extremely frustrating along with the financial challenges My son has put me on that’ll help me with nothing else and I’m in my car for 7 1/2 years after being discarded by my ex who was very abusive, but my family left me here and all I keep hearing is I waited too long to do some thing to put myself in a better position, which obviously doesn’t solve anything it’s just insult injury Any input is always appreciated. Thank you for the video. I think it’s very helpful.
Toyota make all 4 sensors with different connector and cable length, at least for my Sienna. You can't swap bank 1 sensor to bank 2. Bank 1 sensor cable is shorter than bank 2. And lower sensors have different connector.
Same on a 2004 Lexus gs300. Each one has a different role to play, I actually learned that recently when the mechanic put Bank 1 sensor 1 in Bank 2 Sensor 1 place.
Same here on my Toyota sienna 2007. I replaced all 4 oxygen sensor with denso brand and still have codes on the bank 1 #2 and bank 2 #2. I had problems with my bank 2 #1 until I zip tied the wires so it doesn't touch anything metal. Then boh upstream worked. I will do the same to the both downstream sensors tomorrow and see if that works on them also.
i had code 1310, changed that coil and that code is still gone but the 1135 and 1155 came back after new sensors. should i buy the down stream sensor and the last 3 coils?
2008 GMC Yukon I’m having a P1133 which is Bank 1 Sensor 1 insufficient switching. I replaced both upstream oxygen sensors with AC Delco parts. It drives so much better now stopped my hard shifting, better MPG everything. But the code comes back randomly 2-3 days latter 100+ miles it come back on. I got it cleared and the same thing randomly days later it pops back up
I'm having the same issue on my 08 Tahoe. Replaced both upstream with GM Genuine o2 sensors and just got a p1133 and p1153 last night. I'm about to go out there and replace bothe downstream with GM Genuine o2 sensors and see what happens. Happy 4th 🇱🇷
Having the same issues. Code p015B, replaced 02 and code jumped to p015D. Truck stutters when starting up. I “reset” the truck and code but showed up the next day. Weird thing is that it started up with no problems before check engine light turned on again
I had a P0139 DTC on a Dodge that was intermittent. I replaced BOTH sensors with Bosch units. Same code again. Come to find out, FCA had issued a TSB to reprogram the PCM way back when. When I went to the dealer, they tried to charge me $250 to reprogram. Hell, no…
@@xXRedEyedStrangerXx make sure its not the heated o2 but if it's a 2 or 3 wire I believe it's either white or gray. If it's the heated o2 then ypu will have 12 + volts on the blue wire
@@BM-hb2mr thanks, mine is a heated o2. I got wiring diagrams and all for it. Correct me if I’m wrong but as long as the truck is up to temp sensor should be working fine and not need the heater anymore and I can check at the sensor as you described?
I'm going through the same thing. Replaced two new air/fuel sensors and was ready to get a third from the dealer because code turned on after 10 miles of driving or so. Instead I got the resistance reading of the original sensor and it was the same as my first replacement air/fuel sensor. I am going to replace the downstream o2 sensor and let you know if it resolves my one year issue. I bought the downstream at the same time I bought the upstream but decided not to replace since there was no code. Downstream sensor is so much cheaper than upstream.
@@slavojalois1639 ok, glad you asked. I replaced downstream and the result was the same. I gave up and took car to a good mechanic. They diagnosed everything and identified it was an upstream sensor issue and I told them I already replaced twice. So I spent over $500 just for the part at the dealership that mechanic replaced for the third time, the first two were OEM. Get ready, light turned on again a couple of weeks later. I decided to do something that came out of no where, next time I went to gas station I fueled up with 89 octane rather than 87. Problem disappeared and it’s been three months. Crazy, right? The car is a 2002 Acura RSX. My next experiment will be to go back to 87 octane but I am not going to do that for another additional three months - I just want to verify SES light does not turn on again after six months. Btw, I never told mechanic that higher octane appeared to fix problem.
That's very interesting there's a lot of talk about fuel somewhere in the comments to this video. I live in Australia, I really thought our fuel here would be at a better standard but I will give it a go for sure as you never know if the Petrol outlets are messing with the fuel like mixing in some Ethernol into the Unleaded Tank or the standard UL is just not good enough. Many thanks for replying, Tony. Cheers! @@tonys4751
I'm havinga P0430 code on my bank 2 sensor 2 on my 2015 Chevy Silverado 1500. I've replaced the sensor 3 times, the last time I bought an OEM and it worked for about a month and I just got the code again. I will be changing the coils and sparkplugs when I get a chance.
Hello guys I have a 2002 Silverado and keep getting P0157. This is sensor 2 bank 2. Downstream passenger side. This sensor has no real use other than making sure the catalytic converter is working properly. It is low voltage which would mean that there is too much o2 in the exhaust so the opposite of the cat not filtering enough. I have a diagnostic tool with real time data. The voltage is pretty much fixed and doesn’t have the sinusoidal pattern that you would expect, and is visible on the sensor 2 bank 1 on the opposite side. I have replaced the sensor with a denso and it comes back so on to the next steps. Going to check for 3v at the plug with ignition on and engine off for a step 1 of wiring test, as well as for exhaust leaks between sensor 1 and sensor 2. Checking this area because the upstream is fine but downstream is lean so the issue would have to be in that area. Interested to why it’s a fixed voltage with no sinusodal. Only way I can get it to react is with a fast rev of the engine it will spike to rich (.9v) for just a second and back down to the fixed voltage around .05v. Anything else to consider?
Have this same issue I replaced my downstream sensor and not the upstream one so theoretically I can just do the upstream one in and will work because usually downstream one doesn't matter as much as your upstream 02 sensor
I have a 2005 Kia Spectra5 with an error code of p0140, p0030, and p0304. I've purchased all new O2 sensors (three times for each) and I continue to get the same error codes. I also replaced the whole exhaust system, and most of the air intake sensors, including fuel injectors. My next step is to make sure the prongs to the O2 sensors are connected to the correct connection. Sometimes I wonder if aftermarket items are sometimes changed by a simple wire.
@@alltsab - I think I found the issue - I believe it might be a leaky valve cover/spark plug gaskets. While the spark plugs still look good, there is some oil on the threads.
Just watched another guys vid and he found there are self learning codes that show up in the diagnostics reader that have to be manually deleted, gotta try these on my 06 altima 3.5
Another thing dust had worn the contacts down to a point where the voltage going to the coil was only about 2 volts after fitting a new switch i had no more trouble . this maybe worth checking
I have a feeling that the second case is similar to mine, but my car is a Infiniti 3.5, I had a code P0302 for a bad coil and switched it to another side to confirm and yes that coil was bad, so I replaced for a used oem one from ebay. The bad coil code never came back, but after driving the car 30 miles a P2A00 A/F sensor bank 1 code popped up and that sensor is in the same side where the coil was replaced(passenger side) So I suspect that the coil is not working correctly like you said. I will move that coil to driver side to see what happen,s I am experimenting and I will comment to post what happened.
Hey I did my drive cycle but my check engine light keep coming on after driving 3 days straight it comes on. Code is p0133 and I replace my 02 sensor already. My 02 is ready but not my evap and catalyst. Not sure because my car has race header 3inch exhaust and cold air intake. Do I need to check for wats wrong? I’m at the point where I’m stressing out and I can’t find a clue and my emission is due this month. Please help. It is a 2006 Honda civic si
I have a 2006 Chevy cobalt I had o2 sensor codes fixed cleared codes but the light keeps popping back on it says map sensor changed that but the same codes keeps popping back up so I can't pass emissions so frustrating.
I have a 2018 Camry 2.5 le that popped up with p2237 (bank 1 open circuit) replaced the front sensor due to chewed wires. Same code. I’ll see about getting the second sensor installed but $370 parts and install for the first hopefully if I replace it it’ll resolve it
I have a question my 2005 Honda Odyssey i drover 22 mile this code poped up (P2627) 02 sensor Pumping Current Trim Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 1. Car runners fine
My dude! I've been having the same exact issue. Already put in 2 new upstream sensors, still have code. Coincidentally, I'm about to change my ignition coils. If that doesn't work, I'll put in 2 new downstream oxygen sensors. Been driving me crazy
Nothing yet. I did ignition coils, after spark plugs and valve cover gaskets, which fixed my rough idle - but still check engine light and codes, then put in new denso downstream sensors - still light and code, put defoulers on the downstream sensors - still light and code. I have no vacuum leaks but I do have a ton on exhuast leaks and one might be where the driver side exhuast manifold meets the engine and that's the side with the code. Spent 2 days working on exhuast leaks - still light and code and unburned gas smell when I have the car windows open and the engine on
Hello I have a 03 range Rover HSE and I changed the 02 sensor Check engine light came back on and found out it was welded on... should I change the Cadillac converter to avoid this issue
Not sure because I never work on range rover before. But cat. Converter code is different than o2 code. So you have to ask the local range rover parts department to see what they say. Thanks for watching this video.
Thanks for sharing this mate. My scanner shows, P0132 Heated oxygen sensor (H2OS) 1 bank, 1 - high voltage. Would it help if I clean the sensor or replace it? I dont see any chipped wires.
Hey I have 2000 tacoma 2.4, I have 3 codes p0125 coolant temp closed loop fuel control , p0171 lean and a/f code , I've replaced ect temp sensor and both o2s , the thermost and fuel filter , what do you think it could be?
I have a 2019 Kia optima SX turbo ND the check engine light came on, so when I scanned it the code PO140 code came up. So I changed the downstream O2 sensor and my car is still throwing white smoke from exhaust pipe. What should I do next ?
@All Tsab, I having worse problems than that. Changed the cat converter and both O2 sensors. Still got the engine sign on. Lexus ct200h model and has two banks and O2 sensors. Can I swap them just to try. Is it possible to swap them? Spent £2000 already. Still not sure what to do? Please reply me. Many thanks
I believe you,and I'll tell you I've been going through this with my Nissan Maxima. Bought it new in 2012 for my wife going to and from work. They offered 2 years of free oil changes and tire rotations every 3,500 miles so we took full advantage to keep it maintained. We even paid it off 1 year early, then The light came on when it only had 42,000 miles on it. They claimed the warranty was done with because we paid it off early. Long to short, all they could do was split the cost of a refurbished transmission in half. That cost was $2,600 on our part. The light never went off. After putting another $10,000 into it over the years from different mechanics, it's still on. We've taken it in for various other problems, but somehow, nobody knows how to fix it. There are nothing but Scammers and thieves.
I had same problem with a 2019 fusion it turns out that it is really a catalytic converter that is under warranty work so it’s being replaced sometime this week luckily because it’s between 1000.00 aftermarket or 4000.00 dealer original equipment.
Hello I’m having an issue with my GMC Yukon 2006 I’m getting a 02 code bank 1 sensor 2. I have replaced it already but the light turned on again. Should I replace also bank 1 sensor 1 also ?
Did you replace with oem or cheap aftermarket sensor. Sometimes aftermarket part is not working properly. You can used my method to swap b1 and b2 sensors if it the same. Or just replace b1s1
I have a 2012 Ford Expedition that was showing bank 2, replaced sensor, replaced catalyst with two aftermarket then put oem catalyst and same code keeps coming back
Same prob. 97 Tacoma Started Throwing a Code one day about bank 1 sensor. Changed both bank 1 and 2 and it ran great for a couple months. Now it's throwing the same code for bank 1 again. No damn clue what the deal is.
I just had a situation where. First it was bank 1 sensor 2, after I replace it. Code was bank 2 sensor 2, then bank 1 sensor 1 then bank 2 sensor 1. I had to replace all 4 sensors. I never thought 4 sensors would go bad at same time. 🤷🏻♂️
They start sending different signals, in layman's terms one is out working the other which starts telling the computer "CHANGE ME ALSO, YOU CHANGED HIM" Lol.
I wish that the ECU is better than throwing related codes and not the code for the actual problem. That makes people resort to parts-cannon repair strategy.
I am having O2 sensor problems on my Isuzu Axiom. A P0141 and P0160. I can not figure it out. I put all new Denso sensors. Moved them around and codes still come up in the same place. Can’t find a body ground for the O2 sensors specifically so I assume it is grounded through the PCM. I will clean those contacts and hope for the best. Hopefully someone has some better ideas? Let me know. Also thank you to the RUclipsr for his insight. Will look into the ignition coils also.
Do you replaced oem o2 sensor or off brand from online? If you buy from online those are Chinese knock off it will never work. If you put oem and still pop the same code try to replace both b1s1 and b2s1 as well it could be up stream sensors too because those are air fuel sensors. Good luck please help subscribe 🙏 thanks 😊
Im having a similar headache. I get a p0139 code on a 05 Acura rsx. My o2 sensor completes but the catalytic doesn't. I go ahead and replace the rear sensor 3 times, I replace the front sensor 2 times, I fixed exhaust leaks, I replaced injectors, and even after all of that the code just continues to pop up. Mechanics don't know what the problem is. I don't even know what to replace anymore before I go ahead and replace the ecu.
I'm still worrying about how to fix my 2004 Toyota Rav4 which has always had P2238 for upstream sensor. I replaced the sensor, cleared the code but the code persists. That's why I found this video here because I still want to find a solution and have the MIL go off
Having this issue right now with my 2007 Infiniti g35 coupe. I just got all 4 new 02 sensors, but I’m still getting a p0133 code which I think is bank 2 upstream. I no longer smell my car burning rich, however just the sever engine soon sign on my dashboard 🤦🏾♂️. Frustrating
I am in similar situation, I am getting engine light for p0139 bank 1 sensor 2 in Honda accord 2013. I replaced 02 sensor with Autozone one not OEM honda one. Do you think thats why? or should i change coils first to fix the problem ?? thank you for great video.
Did you buy denso or other brand? If you know someone have the same car as your just ask them you can put your part in their car to see it throwing the same code.
Yes those are 02 sensor code but it doesn't mean that always 02 sensor is bad. If those 3 mechanics not doing full diagnostic then their first guess is 02 sensor. You have to take to someone have proper scanner they can do a fully diagnostic to see what cause it. I don't have your car in front of me I can't tell what going on with your car and can't fix by guessing game. Thanks for watching my video and don't forget to help subscribe to my channel ok
Hey, nice video, thanks, I'm in a serious war with my 2006 jeep liberty kj, got the p0150 code bank 2 sensor 1, replaced it with a new Bosch one, code returned, replaced again with a used mopar one, code back after cleaned all codes, so it can be the bank 2 sensor 2 the one failing or i misunderstood it?. Thanks
@@alltsab too fast, 2 or 3 times after turning on the engine, after codes are cleared and run the engine the mil is off, but running the engine again and the code is back
I’m having this problem with with my 2007 Nissan Quest they diagnose said was the sensors took it to the mechanic he did change them a week after the service engine light turn on took it back and he tried to fix it he was not able to find out why the light was on He gave up and pretty much told me to take it to the Nissan dealer because he didn’t want to deal with it since it could be many thing I do t know what to do at this point
I’m having the same issue. I ordered a bank 1 sensor 2 02 sensor. Found this video and you confirmed that would be the fix. Thanks.
You welcome
I replaced the bank 1 sensor 2 and my problem is fixed. Appreciated.
@@lowdown6496 nice
Thanks for sharing this! I’m having this problem right now with my 2009 G37.. will try this asap and see what happens 🤞🏼
Thank You for sharing your advice and experience. You are helping many of us out here. God Bless You 🙏
Thanks buddy
I am going to try one or maybe both of your tips you showed me in this video . Thanks and keep your videos coming
Let me know if it works for you
Thanks for sharing this my friend.
I was having issues with my car, cel light on and codes p0132 and p0152, it was driving me crazy, I never thought that the rear 02 sensors would be the cause of the problem.
You just saved me lots of money,time and headache.
Highly appreciate you. Thanks 🙏.
Oh, and I was already subbed to your channel.
Just like it.👍🏻
Thanks my friend hope you solved your problems. If you did solved it let's me know too ok. 😉
@@alltsab it did fix my problem, that why I post this comment.
You gave the clue with your video.
One of my rear sensor broke as soon I disconnect it and one pin was corrode.
I buy a new sensor and now the car is running like it should.
All 4 sensors with good readings and also the fuel trims as well.
Thank you so much again.👍🏻
.
@@adanarceo4636 nices wonderful hear that ♥
Dang hopefully that works for me as well I've been driving my 04 ram for 6years with the same problem p0152 and p0132. I spent lots of money on replacing O2 sensors and no fix. This video is very well put together I hope this fixes mine as well. I'll keep updated
@@alltsab wow - it was like walking with dim hope in the dark times. Sometimes the generic codes don't always pinpoint 100% to that specified cause directly, but can be the indirect cause of something else - like with your friend's whose SUV car ignition coil packs were the indirect cause of the code... Weird. It takes more than a mechanic's eye to determine the cause.
Thank you so much my 2001 avalon had same thing 02 sensor both in bank 1 replaced but same code came right back up .
So what was the problem?
*Imagine changing a whole exhaust system, all 4 o2 sensors ( twice ) and come to find out it was a vacuum leak*
That's why you have to diagnosis. If you don't you have to blindfold to spend a lot money to fix it and still not solving the problems. Newer car it's hard to fix because too many sensors. Sometimes obd2 still not directly to the problem and still confused which and what to fix.
@@alltsab You right. It's a 04 Lexus gs300 I'm rebuilding it, so I was going to change those things anyway. The second set of o2 sensors is when I decided to buy a XTOOL D8 and it actually showed me where the vacuum leak was coming from ( I actually let XTOOL techs do it lol ) doing an EVAP system check.
@@MRMAN-wb1tv I'm in the middle of diagnosing my truck, how does the xtool D8 compare to the blue tooth BLUEDRIVER?
@@ex8280 One is wireless, one is not lol. Not being sarcastic but that's really the only difference. I guess Bluetooth is better for outside the car diagnostics such as doing actuation test which one needs to hear the mechanism working like injectors.
@@MRMAN-wb1tv I might have to return my autel319 and get one of them.
So frustrating. Something that should be easy (replace an O2 sensor) and it turns into an endless battle....
I’m having that battle rn
After repairing, you have to clear the code or the computer still "senses" there is a problem. Or you may need to check banc 1 fuses.
Like A. Jean Stroud said you have to clear the code, then also drive it about 50 miles so the oxygen sensor and ecu can get reacquainted with each other.
Word. This happens to me all the time. I legit don't want a car anymore. I'm just tryna live my life.
@@Rasenchidori1398: Beautiful. That statement was spot on from beginning to end. There is no rationalizing that this amount of grief, money, labored time is worth it, yet we need our cars. Makes me want to go back to riding horses for transportation. Back then, if your horse broke down, you just took out your pistol and shot him.
I dont even know how i came accross this video but i have a 05 4 runner with same issue throwing p0158 everytime even after cat and sensor was replaced very informative ill check on those coils and swap 02 sensors
Update Swapping sensors caused the error code to change banks this car been kicking my ass for months I was about to order a computer gladness came accross this video
Thank you! I've been having same issues with my 06 Subaru Forester I'm just going to replace both O2 sensors now and then go from there. Great video. 👍
You welcome
Did it solve your problem after replacing both sensors?
@@PR-nq4dt well after replacing both 02 with the same manufacturer I still was getting a code so went on some Subaru forms and figured out for some reason those years Subaru does not like shitty ethanol gas
I put Sheetz gas in it one day car ran like crap codes running Lean.
I put Shell gas in the week after codes went off car ran fine and been running fine sense. 🤣 So Don't put cheap gas in Subaru it only likes name band less ethanol gas.
Hope this helps you out.
@@PR-nq4dt definitely yes
@@thomasfoy957 I'm guilty of putting cheap gas in my Sentra too. Thanks for the heads up.
Thank you for this... if you only knew what I've been through with my truck
Headache right
Did it work, please?
You sound right i have a coil bad and o2 bad after getting new cats but the coil been bad its the 3 way pigtail plug flex fuel connector. i will be replacing that tomorrow
I changed my upstream o2 sensor today bank 1 but its an aftermarket sensor im also having a random misfire code on a 03 Chevy Avalanche i have subbed i found this helpful
Thank you my friend ❤ very appreciated your help 😊. Check my other videos how to do a simple diagnose misfire that may help.
@@alltsab thank you and i will do that
Thank you thank you thank you i love you i have been chasing this fault myself for about 3 weeks i have had a migraine headache over this i dont get headaches and useslly pretty calm and collected but man i liaten to you it was 10 at night when i watched your vid.i went back out and fid just what you said and it workexd so thank from thr bottom of my hrart
You welcome please subscribe to help my channel ok
Thank you for your time explaining all this you saving me a lot of money i really appreciate it appreciate it
You welcome, your subscribe greatly appreciated
Thankyou i believe this is my problem. Im gonna show my mechanic at auto electric shop cuz I cant get anyone to figure it out yet. My car bank 2 sensor 1 check code check engine light on replaced it twice after transmission renewed 2 mis ago from dealer.
I hope its just a faulty ignition coil stinking up causing the sensor to pick up stinky and check engine come on.
Thankyou. Where is your shop? Maybe I come to you if after this only gets reset and check engine comes back on.
You have made sense and im not depressed and not anxious. Much prayers now.
Wish me luck brother!
Great upload. Please do more.
Thanks don't forget to hit the subscribe button buddy
You’re a great guy for telling your story and helping others diagnose their vehicle issues. Thanks. Sub and Like
Thank you so much evry appreciate 🙏
Thanks for sharing your knowledge bro . Appreciate it much
grate video a person cant learn that in any school- thank you for posting you experience -you get my thumps up and subscribe- good day to you sir
Thank you very much for your help
P1130 AND P1135 at the same time on the V6 Camry. 6 years ago it was intermittent, check engine light comes on for 100 miles then automatically off for another 100 miles. It was on an endless on and off cycle forever, making a rush for smog check when its off. Then this past 18 months light stays on without automatically resets. I have a DENSO on order, it's my 4th one for Bank 1 Sensor 1. I think the last two DENSOS were fakes although the check engine light came off for the first few months. Funny it performs like new, very smooth and no lost in performance independent of on or off light.
Thank you so much for this information I can't tell you how many cars I heard have this issue crazy how no one knows this especially mechanics
You welcome
Thank you for your information because I have 1998 toyota tacoma 2.4 have a o2 sensor I replaced still have o2 sensor code
You welcome and thank you for the subscribe 😊
good to know i appreciate it... ive swapped a couple primaries too... 06 4runner with the 4.7 v8 i may just swap all the o2 then...
Thanks for the story on oxy Sensor yet got a 2002 chevy cavalier with the problem....
Wow very hard to find it so some times we have to do it little extras thinks Obdulia some times is wrong do not give ever think 100% good job congratulations bro god bless you
You welcome thanks for watching
Useful information thank you for sharing.
thank you bro for giving me enlightment in the darkness...i am having same issu...been headache for ages...wasting time wasting money replacing new upstream oxygen sensor couple of times for both top, the code keep coming back..now am gonna try your solution...wish me luck! btw i hv subscribed and liked your video!
Thanks buddy for helping subscribe good luck to you.
Wow, I am having the same problem with my 05 4runner. I had change my driver manifold including a new upstream o2 sensor and it is throwing p0031/p0051 code from both bank 1 and bank 2. I will try changing out the 2nd o2 sensor to see if it works. What a headache.. thanks uncle. I'll try it.
You welcome and good luck to you
Do you know where the ground wires you was talking about runs too? I have the V8 4.7. Couldn't figure out where the ground wire is at.
Yes headache
G'day, how did it work out for you, please? @@alltsab
Thx. Replaced Oxygen sensor near cat and engine light went back on. Will check my coil and see.
FYI ... I found out today that accidentally leaving one of the hoses on the intake near the air filter disconnected after changing the air filter will throw the exact code for this bank1 sensor2 O2 sensor failure
my torque app said the light was on for 'o2 sensor slow to respond' ... instantly fixed by fixing the disconnected hose on the side of the intake tube
if you have this code for bank1 sensor 2, first check all of the hoses that attach to the intake before digging into this O2 sensor repair - especially if you've recently had the air filter out
if writing this helps at least one person it's worth it
Thanks buddy
I took my 2008 highlander in for oil change and the guy opened up my air filter to check. Next day check engine light turned on for P0031. I looked over everything, all connected, replaced O2 sensor and still light will not go away. What should I check next?
thankyou for this information Sir !
My 2003 Ford Mustang keeps throwing P0153 for Bank 2 sensor 1 slow to respond. I replaced upstream with a Ford Motorcraft O2 sensor. The code still came back. I don’t have cats and using MIL eliminators. I’ve been to the exhaust shop twice to check for an exhaust leak, and now you are making me think I may wanna check my downstream O2 sensor since it’s the original with 131,000 miles.
Doesn't hurt to do the same as I did
Did that end up fixing your problem? I gutted the cats, and put non fouler plugs on my 02 sensors towards the back. But I'm getting a bank 1 sensor 1 lean code.
And foreign cars are notorious for relay loose at the fuse relay distribution box. They get loose and or get corroded
Thanks! Very helpful
I’ll check that tomorrow. I just replaced both up and downstream o2 sensors on my matrix xrs and the engine light came back on. I have a second xrs. 😂 ima swap the coils and see if that works. 👍
Did it?
Thank you! Your awesome!🤙
It's my own car
Great great video. Thank you
I cleaned the catalytic converters and the O2 sensors, and then I got the same issues you are describing here in my 2012 ford F150
I have found cheap fuel causes a lot O2 sensor problems even when the O2 sensor is working properly. I like Chevron gasoline with Techron additive. I also use SeaFoam to clean out my fuel and emissions system.
That is true poor gas can cause o2 sensors and cat.converter go bad too.
You're right Toyota Camry after putting good gas never seen it again filled again with cheap one came back.
Does it work out cleaning with seafoam...?
Thanks, I have a 2004 sienna. I ordered 3 upstream bank 1 sensors. lucky for me, i ordered from amazon and returned them. =D I will try the downstream sensor, then if that doesn't work. Change coils and plugs.
Excellent. Thank You. I'm getting codes for both upstream sensors. I replaced all 4 and still get codes for both upstream sensors. So I can't really swap the back sensors. Not sure what to do at this point.
Do you replace eom toyota or ebay Chinese made sensors?
Figure this is worth a shot- 03 dakota R/T, been chasing down a p0138 p0141. Replaced downstream sensor is oem mopar, new injectors, fuel pump, plugs, wires, coil, dist cap. (Old parts needed to be replaced anyways) but code remains. Garage I brought it too says circuit is ok, fuel control isn’t working on bank 1 of the motor? They quoted me another $540 to just diagnose the problem. Have had a few vaccum leak tests done all saying no leak, as well as replaced intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets. Also the CEL will come on and then go off for a few drive cycles and then reappear. Tried swapping wires of the downstream sensors and problem remained. Anything helps god bless
Check first exhaust leak
Great video, thanks
I have the same issue I going to change the rear I hope that's the problem thank you
Thanks mate!
Very interesting.
I have a 2015 Toyota Corolla and then I’ve had a lot going on recently
I have 443,871 miles on the car
I’m the original owner and I’ve taken pretty good care of it up until last year and a half
Money became an issue
So I wasn’t on top of things
But my car started bucking whenever I wanted to give it gas. If I gave it a little extra push, it would start bogging the track off light would come on, and I essentially wouldn’t really be able to drive it more than like 10 mph until I could pull over.
First time that happened I turned the key off and I removed the key from ignition. I put it back in a couple minutes and cranked it over and it went back to normal.
Things were going bad on my car. I was throwing codes for misfire on three and four. Those were replaced recently months ago I had Code replaced the coil and the spark plug on that one.
Well, it turns out since it is an all electrical car that there were many
My brakes for one there were times where I didn’t think I was gonna be able to stop. Yes, I needed new rotors and pads and those were replaced but I still was having this issue where it seemed like I was struggling to stop my car.
Turns out it was my alternator, and I believe it was my PCV valve because that had never been changed
So when we were in there changing it, we realize that all the vacuum hoses were cracked
All of them were replaced, except for one that one actually connects the other end through the vacuum hose or line to the sensor, which I just replaced, which is the purge valve
That is malfunctioning the brand new one just like the old one
It’s giving a rat noise and at first it was kind of slow and now it’s really sped up
My car will buck even when I have my foot on the break
So I went to one of the parts stores and had them run a scan on it after all this had been done, and it comes up with code 4020 which indicates quite a few things for 2015 Toyota Corolla
When we were in there, changing the PCV valve, we should’ve replaced the O-rings on the fuel injectors that never got done, and I had no control over it even though it’s an inexpensive replacement
Because of financial issues
My son was the one who was supposed to get the O-rings because his friend is very Mechanic landline and was doing the majority of the work and walking him through what needed done and he just decided he wasn’t going to get them even they’re only like two dollars
So I feel like that needed to be done and wasn’t but the code that it’s throwing could be something to do with the temperature so this could be a solenoid, possibly or something of that nature in my opinion gas cap they took off and they listed in the gas tank, and there were something unusual, but no one ever bothered to fill me in with that meant
Needless to say, it comes up as the catalytic converter
Now somebody here on RUclips said that if you’re getting a code for P4020 don’t think you can replace the sensors meaning the O2 sensor, upstream and downstream and that that’s going to correct the
He says what the problem is, is actually the catalytic converter and that’s what needs
That’s not cheap
And it’s out of my financial
Then again, so the sensors
But sometime ago, when I had codes ran on this car when it originally threw the check engine light, which is over a year ago it said it was downstream sensor under the hood, which is up against the firewall
Ideally in my humble opinion, both sensors would have to be replaced at the same time, but I’m almost positive it through an sensor and I think that is under the hood also because there’s another one down by the charcoal canister
I just don’t have anybody to help me sort it out, and I am not mechanically inclined as I wish I was
My son seems to think it’s jerking, and it is a misfire even though that’s not how the computer is reading it
Which is why I find this video so interesting
Because all of my coils are essentially brand new, and so are all my spark plugs, so they were not done at the same exact time
Yet I had a mechanic, tell me that when I bought my coil, and even though it was brand new that it might be a fail when you buy anything off-line like that that could be the case, but then parts stores do the same thing and so when you walk into a store and buy some thing from them, there’s no guarantee that that’s gonna be good either
That’s what they were gonna do with my hoses. Make us wait two weeks for the vacuum hoses and order them online just like we did so we bypassed them and ordered the ones that were available the one that I need for the vacuum line which wasn’t replaced and the hose is cracked And connect to the sensor that’s malfunctioning which is brand new cannot be sourced anywhere, but Toyota and even though it’s not a very big hose it’s probably going to have a big price tag
And of course, I’m sure that has a lot to do with it even though the person who worked on my car said it really shouldn’t make a difference at all if it was replaced, I would feel much better, but there is a hose on the other end of the vacuum line which connects to the sensor and I noticed that that little piece that little tiny hose which connects to the sensor and then connects to the vacuum line is very hard and brittle and even though I can’t see a crack in it it’s flared at the end that connects to the sensor, so I’m wondering if there’s some type of a leak there and that that is creating the issue
It’s too much and not having anyone to help me sort it out has been extremely frustrating along with the financial challenges
My son has put me on that’ll help me with nothing else and I’m in my car for 7 1/2 years after being discarded by my ex who was very abusive, but my family left me here and all I keep hearing is I waited too long to do some thing to put myself in a better position, which obviously doesn’t solve anything it’s just insult injury
Any input is always appreciated. Thank you for the video. I think it’s very helpful.
I didn't realize RUclips allowed comments this long.
You can write a book. And I read all of it too
You make the key point !
Thank you brother
I have had this issue for 5 months with my wrangler and almost the same issue.... Thanks going try
Try it and let me know how it goes
@@alltsab thanks I will!
Toyota make all 4 sensors with different connector and cable length, at least for my Sienna. You can't swap bank 1 sensor to bank 2. Bank 1 sensor cable is shorter than bank 2. And lower sensors have different connector.
Same on a 2004 Lexus gs300. Each one has a different role to play, I actually learned that recently when the mechanic put Bank 1 sensor 1 in Bank 2 Sensor 1 place.
Same here on my Toyota sienna 2007. I replaced all 4 oxygen sensor with denso brand and still have codes on the bank 1 #2 and bank 2 #2. I had problems with my bank 2 #1 until I zip tied the wires so it doesn't touch anything metal. Then boh upstream worked. I will do the same to the both downstream sensors tomorrow and see if that works on them also.
i had code 1310, changed that coil and that code is still gone but the 1135 and 1155 came back after new sensors. should i buy the down stream sensor and the last 3 coils?
2008 GMC Yukon
I’m having a P1133 which is Bank 1 Sensor 1 insufficient switching. I replaced both upstream oxygen sensors with AC Delco parts. It drives so much better now stopped my hard shifting, better MPG everything. But the code comes back randomly 2-3 days latter 100+ miles it come back on. I got it cleared and the same thing randomly days later it pops back up
I'm having the same issue on my 08 Tahoe. Replaced both upstream with GM Genuine o2 sensors and just got a p1133 and p1153 last night. I'm about to go out there and replace bothe downstream with GM Genuine o2 sensors and see what happens. Happy 4th 🇱🇷
The intake manifold gasket it's causes of check engine light ,anyway,broken gasket or leaking.
Yes it can cause check engine light if it leak.
Having the same issues. Code p015B, replaced 02 and code jumped to p015D. Truck stutters when starting up. I “reset” the truck and code but showed up the next day. Weird thing is that it started up with no problems before check engine light turned on again
Good video, forgot the fuses though.
Yeah some rear sensors will show a code for front sensor.
You got it. New sub. Great content.
Thanks buddy 😊
I had a P0139 DTC on a Dodge that was intermittent. I replaced BOTH sensors with Bosch units. Same code again. Come to find out, FCA had issued a TSB to reprogram the PCM way back when. When I went to the dealer, they tried to charge me $250 to reprogram.
Hell, no…
Very easy test is make sure you have ground and 3 volts at the plug at the sensor with unplugged. Key on engine off.
Which of the 4 wires do you test to verify this? Obviously the ground and then which? Want to make sure I’m not reading the heater wire
@@xXRedEyedStrangerXx make sure its not the heated o2 but if it's a 2 or 3 wire I believe it's either white or gray. If it's the heated o2 then ypu will have 12 + volts on the blue wire
@@BM-hb2mr thanks, mine is a heated o2. I got wiring diagrams and all for it. Correct me if I’m wrong but as long as the truck is up to temp sensor should be working fine and not need the heater anymore and I can check at the sensor as you described?
I'm going through the same thing. Replaced two new air/fuel sensors and was ready to get a third from the dealer because code turned on after 10 miles of driving or so. Instead I got the resistance reading of the original sensor and it was the same as my first replacement air/fuel sensor. I am going to replace the downstream o2 sensor and let you know if it resolves my one year issue. I bought the downstream at the same time I bought the upstream but decided not to replace since there was no code. Downstream sensor is so much cheaper than upstream.
I think you have the same issue as I am. Replaced it and let me know.
How did it turn out for out, please?
@@slavojalois1639 ok, glad you asked. I replaced downstream and the result was the same. I gave up and took car to a good mechanic. They diagnosed everything and identified it was an upstream sensor issue and I told them I already replaced twice. So I spent over $500 just for the part at the dealership that mechanic replaced for the third time, the first two were OEM. Get ready, light turned on again a couple of weeks later. I decided to do something that came out of no where, next time I went to gas station I fueled up with 89 octane rather than 87. Problem disappeared and it’s been three months. Crazy, right? The car is a 2002 Acura RSX. My next experiment will be to go back to 87 octane but I am not going to do that for another additional three months - I just want to verify SES light does not turn on again after six months. Btw, I never told mechanic that higher octane appeared to fix problem.
That's very interesting there's a lot of talk about fuel somewhere in the comments to this video. I live in Australia, I really thought our fuel here would be at a better standard but I will give it a go for sure as you never know if the Petrol outlets are messing with the fuel like mixing in some Ethernol into the Unleaded Tank or the standard UL is just not good enough. Many thanks for replying, Tony. Cheers! @@tonys4751
@@slavojalois1639 Keep us posted.
I'm havinga P0430 code on my bank 2 sensor 2 on my 2015 Chevy Silverado 1500. I've replaced the sensor 3 times, the last time I bought an OEM and it worked for about a month and I just got the code again. I will be changing the coils and sparkplugs when I get a chance.
Your main problem is the p430 taking care p430 first
Hello guys I have a 2002 Silverado and keep getting P0157. This is sensor 2 bank 2. Downstream passenger side. This sensor has no real use other than making sure the catalytic converter is working properly. It is low voltage which would mean that there is too much o2 in the exhaust so the opposite of the cat not filtering enough. I have a diagnostic tool with real time data. The voltage is pretty much fixed and doesn’t have the sinusoidal pattern that you would expect, and is visible on the sensor 2 bank 1 on the opposite side. I have replaced the sensor with a denso and it comes back so on to the next steps. Going to check for 3v at the plug with ignition on and engine off for a step 1 of wiring test, as well as for exhaust leaks between sensor 1 and sensor 2. Checking this area because the upstream is fine but downstream is lean so the issue would have to be in that area. Interested to why it’s a fixed voltage with no sinusodal. Only way I can get it to react is with a fast rev of the engine it will spike to rich (.9v) for just a second and back down to the fixed voltage around .05v. Anything else to consider?
Have this same issue I replaced my downstream sensor and not the upstream one so theoretically I can just do the upstream one in and will work because usually downstream one doesn't matter as much as your upstream 02 sensor
I will update if it works for me thanks on your advice it's helped me lots
Ladies an gentlemen it fixed the issue
I have a 2005 Kia Spectra5 with an error code of p0140, p0030, and p0304. I've purchased all new O2 sensors (three times for each) and I continue to get the same error codes. I also replaced the whole exhaust system, and most of the air intake sensors, including fuel injectors. My next step is to make sure the prongs to the O2 sensors are connected to the correct connection. Sometimes I wonder if aftermarket items are sometimes changed by a simple wire.
You should fix po304 first before other code
@@alltsab Thanks! that's exactly what I'm going to do.
@@alltsab - I think I found the issue - I believe it might be a leaky valve cover/spark plug gaskets. While the spark plugs still look good, there is some oil on the threads.
Just watched another guys vid and he found there are self learning codes that show up in the diagnostics reader that have to be manually deleted, gotta try these on my 06 altima 3.5
Another thing dust had worn the contacts down to a point where the voltage going to the coil was only about 2 volts after fitting a new switch i had no more trouble . this maybe worth checking
I have a feeling that the second case is similar to mine, but my car is a Infiniti 3.5, I had a code P0302 for a bad coil and switched it to another side to confirm and yes that coil was bad, so I replaced for a used oem one from ebay. The bad coil code never came back, but after driving the car 30 miles a P2A00 A/F sensor bank 1 code popped up and that sensor is in the same side where the coil was replaced(passenger side) So I suspect that the coil is not working correctly like you said. I will move that coil to driver side to see what happen,s I am experimenting and I will comment to post what happened.
Ok waiting to hear from you again
Hey I did my drive cycle but my check engine light keep coming on after driving 3 days straight it comes on. Code is p0133 and I replace my 02 sensor already. My 02 is ready but not my evap and catalyst. Not sure because my car has race header 3inch exhaust and cold air intake. Do I need to check for wats wrong? I’m at the point where I’m stressing out and I can’t find a clue and my emission is due this month. Please help. It is a 2006 Honda civic si
I have a 2006 Chevy cobalt I had o2 sensor codes fixed cleared codes but the light keeps popping back on it says map sensor changed that but the same codes keeps popping back up so I can't pass emissions so frustrating.
So ignition coil? My truck hesitates a few to start
I have a 2018 Camry 2.5 le that popped up with p2237 (bank 1 open circuit) replaced the front sensor due to chewed wires. Same code. I’ll see about getting the second sensor installed but $370 parts and install for the first hopefully if I replace it it’ll resolve it
That should solve it
I have a question my 2005 Honda Odyssey i drover 22 mile this code poped up (P2627) 02 sensor Pumping Current Trim Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 1. Car runners fine
My dude! I've been having the same exact issue. Already put in 2 new upstream sensors, still have code. Coincidentally, I'm about to change my ignition coils. If that doesn't work, I'll put in 2 new downstream oxygen sensors. Been driving me crazy
What worked?
Nothing yet. I did ignition coils, after spark plugs and valve cover gaskets, which fixed my rough idle - but still check engine light and codes, then put in new denso downstream sensors - still light and code, put defoulers on the downstream sensors - still light and code. I have no vacuum leaks but I do have a ton on exhuast leaks and one might be where the driver side exhuast manifold meets the engine and that's the side with the code. Spent 2 days working on exhuast leaks - still light and code and unburned gas smell when I have the car windows open and the engine on
Thanks!
Hello I have a 03 range Rover HSE and I changed the 02 sensor Check engine light came back on and found out it was welded on... should I change the Cadillac converter to avoid this issue
Not sure because I never work on range rover before. But cat. Converter code is different than o2 code. So you have to ask the local range rover parts department to see what they say. Thanks for watching this video.
Thanks for the video. I'm going through that right now. Do you have any ideas what would cause that on a 2009 Pontiac G8 GT?
Not sure
@@alltsab I replaced both on the downstream 2x within a week and still the same codes pop up.
@@EpicWarDog could be the up stream sensor as mine
Thanks for sharing this mate. My scanner shows, P0132 Heated oxygen sensor (H2OS) 1 bank, 1 - high voltage. Would it help if I clean the sensor or replace it? I dont see any chipped wires.
I never see any cleaning o2 sensor will work but you can try. I recommend replace new one and buy oem or denso brand only.
@@alltsab thank you
Hey I have 2000 tacoma 2.4, I have 3 codes p0125 coolant temp closed loop fuel control , p0171 lean and a/f code , I've replaced ect temp sensor and both o2s , the thermost and fuel filter , what do you think it could be?
Fan clutch of n vacuum leak check ur cas cap & canister
Your a genius
Thanks
I have a 2019 Kia optima SX turbo ND the check engine light came on, so when I scanned it the code PO140 code came up. So I changed the downstream O2 sensor and my car is still throwing white smoke from exhaust pipe. What should I do next ?
Throwing white smoke is not 02 sensor. I think maybe your turbo is going bad or head gasket.
@All Tsab, I having worse problems than that. Changed the cat converter and both O2 sensors. Still got the engine sign on.
Lexus ct200h model and has two banks and O2 sensors.
Can I swap them just to try.
Is it possible to swap them?
Spent £2000 already. Still not sure what to do? Please reply me. Many thanks
I believe you,and I'll tell you I've been going through this with my Nissan Maxima. Bought it new in 2012 for my wife going to and from work. They offered 2 years of free oil changes and tire rotations every 3,500 miles so we took full advantage to keep it maintained. We even paid it off 1 year early, then
The light came on when it only had 42,000 miles on it. They claimed the warranty was done with because we paid it off early.
Long to short, all they could do was split the cost of a refurbished transmission in half. That cost was $2,600 on our part. The light never went off. After putting another $10,000 into it over the years from different mechanics, it's still on. We've taken it in for various other problems, but somehow, nobody knows how to fix it. There are nothing but Scammers and thieves.
I had same problem with a 2019 fusion it turns out that it is really a catalytic converter that is under warranty work so it’s being replaced sometime this week luckily because it’s between 1000.00 aftermarket or 4000.00 dealer original equipment.
Nice
So youre saying a bad ignition coil will throw a 02 sensor code ?
No I don't think I said that
Hello I’m having an issue with my GMC Yukon 2006 I’m getting a 02 code bank 1 sensor 2. I have replaced it already but the light turned on again. Should I replace also bank 1 sensor 1 also ?
Did you replace with oem or cheap aftermarket sensor. Sometimes aftermarket part is not working properly. You can used my method to swap b1 and b2 sensors if it the same. Or just replace b1s1
I have the same thing on a honda accord 2000 lx 4 cyl automatic 2.3 cyl .
I have a 2012 Ford Expedition that was showing bank 2, replaced sensor, replaced catalyst with two aftermarket then put oem catalyst and same code keeps coming back
Same prob. 97 Tacoma Started Throwing a Code one day about bank 1 sensor. Changed both bank 1 and 2 and it ran great for a couple months. Now it's throwing the same code for bank 1 again. No damn clue what the deal is.
I just had a situation where. First it was bank 1 sensor 2, after I replace it. Code was bank 2 sensor 2, then bank 1 sensor 1 then bank 2 sensor 1. I had to replace all 4 sensors. I never thought 4 sensors would go bad at same time. 🤷🏻♂️
They start sending different signals, in layman's terms one is out working the other which starts telling the computer "CHANGE ME ALSO, YOU CHANGED HIM" Lol.
Did that solve the problem??
Ima do that ... i think its the same issue i have
I wish that the ECU is better than throwing related codes and not the code for the actual problem. That makes people resort to parts-cannon repair strategy.
I'll try this I changed mine on the top I'll swap it with the bottom. I got P0131on Volkswagen Golf 2017 tsi
I am having O2 sensor problems on my Isuzu Axiom. A P0141 and P0160. I can not figure it out. I put all new Denso sensors. Moved them around and codes still come up in the same place. Can’t find a body ground for the O2 sensors specifically so I assume it is grounded through the PCM. I will clean those contacts and hope for the best. Hopefully someone has some better ideas? Let me know. Also thank you to the RUclipsr for his insight. Will look into the ignition coils also.
Do you replaced oem o2 sensor or off brand from online? If you buy from online those are Chinese knock off it will never work. If you put oem and still pop the same code try to replace both b1s1 and b2s1 as well it could be up stream sensors too because those are air fuel sensors. Good luck please help subscribe 🙏 thanks 😊
@@alltsab I used Densos. Brought from Rockauto.
Im having a similar headache. I get a p0139 code on a 05 Acura rsx. My o2 sensor completes but the catalytic doesn't. I go ahead and replace the rear sensor 3 times, I replace the front sensor 2 times, I fixed exhaust leaks, I replaced injectors, and even after all of that the code just continues to pop up. Mechanics don't know what the problem is. I don't even know what to replace anymore before I go ahead and replace the ecu.
Could be your ignition coils too
I'm still worrying about how to fix my 2004 Toyota Rav4 which has always had P2238 for upstream sensor. I replaced the sensor, cleared the code but the code persists. That's why I found this video here because I still want to find a solution and have the MIL go off
Me too only on my daughter's 2005 Subaru Liberty, I wish us the best!
Having this issue right now with my 2007 Infiniti g35 coupe. I just got all 4 new 02 sensors, but I’m still getting a p0133 code which I think is bank 2 upstream. I no longer smell my car burning rich, however just the sever engine soon sign on my dashboard 🤦🏾♂️. Frustrating
did i figure it
Did you find a solution?
I am in similar situation, I am getting engine light for p0139 bank 1 sensor 2 in Honda accord 2013. I replaced 02 sensor with Autozone one not OEM honda one. Do you think thats why? or should i change coils first to fix the problem ?? thank you for great video.
Did you buy denso or other brand? If you know someone have the same car as your just ask them you can put your part in their car to see it throwing the same code.
@@alltsab I didnt buy denso, it was some other brand. i dont know who owns my car but i can try. Do you think changing to OEM one will fix that?
@@muhammadmallick5894 honda ver picky regarding 02 sensors
How did you know what to change since nothing was related to the codes given?
Did what the whole video i explain in it
I still don’t understand what he figured out? Was it he had to change sensor upstream and downstream both at the same time and his problem was solved?
I have a Honda accord 2005 I’ve change de downstream sensor and still the same codes pops up P0138 and P0139 i don’t know what it could be
Yes those are 02 sensor code but it doesn't mean that always 02 sensor is bad. If those 3 mechanics not doing full diagnostic then their first guess is 02 sensor. You have to take to someone have proper scanner they can do a fully diagnostic to see what cause it. I don't have your car in front of me I can't tell what going on with your car and can't fix by guessing game. Thanks for watching my video and don't forget to help subscribe to my channel ok
Hey, nice video, thanks, I'm in a serious war with my 2006 jeep liberty kj, got the p0150 code bank 2 sensor 1, replaced it with a new Bosch one, code returned, replaced again with a used mopar one, code back after cleaned all codes, so it can be the bank 2 sensor 2 the one failing or i misunderstood it?. Thanks
Yes could be b2s2
How soon it come back?
@@alltsab too fast, 2 or 3 times after turning on the engine, after codes are cleared and run the engine the mil is off, but running the engine again and the code is back
@@alltsab tomorrow I gonna try replace the 2 /2 I have the Bosch one in the shelf,
I’m having this problem with with my 2007 Nissan Quest they diagnose said was the sensors took it to the mechanic he did change them a week after the service engine light turn on took it back and he tried to fix it he was not able to find out why the light was on He gave up and pretty much told me to take it to the Nissan dealer because he didn’t want to deal with it since it could be many thing I do t know what to do at this point
Thanks