I don't often comment, good details on changing out a motor, but I had to say that air hose reel idea is awesome. I'll be on the hunt for a frame to use.
if mainteneced properly those old briggs opposed twins will live very long lives.i have a 1986 16 horse i used summer & winter for 27 years.took it apart to inspect before putting on snowplow only tractor.crank looked like new with .003 rods clearence to crank.i was shocked.every gasket on it leaked but was still in spec after 27 years.did have to adjust valves twice during those years.unbelievable for a splash lube engine.it still runs fantastic without all the leaks.pennzoil must be doing something right for such little wear over 27 years of year round use.i believe maintence was the key to its longevity.just dont neglect or over rev them, & all is good.
The ol briggs might burn some oil, but will still outlive a couple more courage singles. The courage motors are the embodiment of a bic lighter, disposable.
Each to his own butt I believe that kit also would have 2 base plate gaskets in it I would have just taken the carburetor all the way off and just took it to the work bench and had a seat and a big glass of ice tea and it would have been a lot easier to clean up and rebuild the pump all he would have had to do was to put a little bit of grease on the spring that went in the carb body and laid the pump on the bench and set the carb down onto it and held it in place then picked it up and put the screws or little bolts in it and a lot easier on the back?
Several years back I was replacing an engine on a craftsman with a twin opposed briggs. The engine had been sitting unused on a mower for about 18 months. Before swapping I got the crazy idea to pull the covers for inspection. Found dirt dauber nests, paper wasp nest, and on one cylinder I found half a snake skin shed, the other half was on the other cylinder. Thankfully the snake was gone. If an engine has been sitting for a while, I think it’s a good idea to check under the covers.
Yeah I seen a guy on RUclips that had a push mower that was running so hot the muffler looked like it was gonna fall of from being so hot. He took the cover off to find a mouse had packed dirt and leaves and straw all I'm the fins and case of he air hat. No wonder she was so 🔥🥵
I had Briggs motor on a riding mower, that a mouse had built a nest back in behind the heat shield cover plate and was making the motor get hot. Them aggravating mice and mud dobbers and wasppers can sure make a mess .
Hope your father-in-law doesn't mind you cuddling all over his new Cub cadet lawn mowers I can't really feel it cobbler like that got a junkyard for the engines and you would pick that one instead of a collar that would actually fit cuz you not only have to cover that hole you have to come home for the headlight switch and alcohol over the extra choke cable so that's two holes passed with the factory put in
Good diagnosis, it's best to check the oil level every time before starting any mower because I experienced a gasoline flooded crankcase about 20 years ago myself realizing what had happened by the high level and smell of gasoline after checking the dipstick, I drained the crankcase added fresh oil, filter, and a fuel shut off valve and never had another issue, afterwards every gravity fed mower I ever purchased to this day I installed and used the fuel shut off valve every time the engine wasn't running. Always check the oil level as a habit just to be safe, yeah it's a real pain in the ass to most but it's the every day piece of mind and assurance just knowing that you will not blow up your engine because this happened and have to replace it, or even worst forking out top dollars for a whole new mower.
@@tedbrewer7847 Mount the valve between the filter and the fuel tank to make filter changes easier and less messy you'll need to clamp off the fuel line from the tank initially to install it, then in the future just run the engine with the valve closed until the engine runs dry to eliminate most gasoline leakage from either end of the line when changing the filter.
@@tedbrewer7847 No it's supposed to be suspended on the fuel line just like the fuel filter but I used 2 small cable ties to fasten it on each hose side of the valve at the 2 clamps to a parallel running fuel vent hose that goes from the intake manifold back up to the top area of the fuel tank to make turning it on and off more stable and secure to use one hand instead of having to hold it steady to keep the hose from twisting.
The charging coil underneath the flywheel can be changed to a single wire regulator type on the opposed twins, to power electric blade clutch. They along with the external regulator are available on ebay. Used charging coils and new regulator. I swapped one for use on a cub with electric clutch.
I had an old Craftsman riding mower with the Briggs 16HP twin engine I bought for $50. Got it running real good and then went and mowed grass & weeds 3 feet tall. NO PROBLEM! Sold it later for $150.
Great video Jeff, those old Briggs Twins are very stout motors and have quite respectable power for not making that much horsepower, but at least now that Cub Cadet will be a reliable tractor.
@@victorwanstreet3038 The older K-series and Magnum engines were very good engines, and the early Command engines were good too, it's just when the Courage engines (particularly the single cylinder variants) came out, that started kickstarting Kohler's downfall in quality.
How old is your father fella. I can see when you opened the hood the amount of dust and lack of maintenance is obvious. You check engine oil every time you get ready to start and use the tractor. This is common for WOMEN to DO this BUMBLE.
@@JeffsLittleEngineService Briggs 40 and 42 -series engines pound their exhaust valve seats into the block until their is no clearance, then they leak fire and the seat gets loose in the block until it chews block out oversize while it runs on the other cylinder. Of course that only happens if you start and use it. If it sits safely in a junkyard not running then of course they don't have that problem.
Think my free used one leaks a little oil from the ring seal of the dip stick not around the engine case seal just the dip stick it's not that bad though i haven't fixed it yet because that ones mowers transmission has a problem and it needs checked out some time
I place Briggs at the bottom of the list and Kawasaki at the top I had a Kohler 27 hp command on a CC that lasted 16 years, sold it to the neighbor and he's still using it to mow his lawn. the only thing I had to do to it was replace a coil pack on the right bank. and of coarse by the looks of that motor, it was abused and not taken care of. Folks, take care of your equipment.
@@herman5eight I think it depends on the motor. I've only owned a John Deere with a 9HP Kawasaki for half of a year, and that was a pretty good little motor. But I have had much more experience with B&S and Kohler. I like both. I hear from many sources that the B&S Opposed Twin is a pretty dependable motor. My little '94 14HP OHV Single Cylinder is a pretty good motor. Had to be rebuilt 8 years ago, but never gave us any issues since. I've even gotten it to start in -10°F temperatures. I will say that the Intek single cylinder is a piece of shit. We had an '04 model, and it is a far cheaper and less durable motor than my '94. As for Kohler, we have a 23HP Command powering our Berco Snowblower, and that thing throws snow to Jupiter. My grandpa has a GT5000 from the late 90's-early 2000's with a 25HP Command, and that thing is still running. Never been rebuilt, and hasn't seen much maintenance (and is sort of on its last leg), but it's still running. Those Commands are great V-Twins. I like them, and my 14HP B&S.
Wow, some pretty hard comments on the Kohler engines but not having oil in the crankcase is bound to expedite any calamity that ensues. Enjoyed the video, thanks for sharing.
These Cina made Kohler turned Many Especially the Cub Cadets gang as the Use to be..a fairly good Mower now there China Junk Kohler should have made good on the 100's that failed busting & the blocks
that is why i install a fuel shut off valve in the gas line. if the anti backfire valve on the needle seat goes bad it fills the crankcase with gasoline.
Anti backfire has no control over gas going into crankcase, that is purely controlled by needle & seat. Anti backfire is only to limit most of the gas for the time it takes between switch off and engine stop.
Did you check the oil. Also I would put in fresh oil. MAYBE I missed it on the video. Best engine swap video I have ever seen. Great job and thank you.
Well I'm happy that this wasn't a two part video. Glad to see the mission completed all in one video. Great job with the engine swap and the carb rebuilding. Have a great day : ) Subscribed
i have few kohler that falled on it face never want to run aging n 3rd one lit it self on fire by carburetors it never have been touch it sat for years n first time starting it up n just burn it self down to ground not worth using kohler anymore im lucky have kawasaki it run like monster but older it get it will become weaker and owning briggs & Stratton will last forever longer keep oils clean and keep it running for weekend it never failure at all friends bought use snapper mower in barn find n bought it over say see if fix it (just add gas n pull that baby) man she started up run like beast no maintenance to it n sat in barn for almost 14 years lol oils still clean n never ran for 15 years wow lol
Your new pull cart air hose reel needs a 5lb propane tank on it for an air reservoir. It would not add hardly any weight and would make your rattle gun twice as precious.
cut fuel line off put shut off to save the next eng . all gas tanks over eng. should have shut off on!!!! the corporation sells engs. so you get stung for 1000$ for new eng. it is designed that way to sell eng. they make for about 50$
The 19hp Courage on my Husqvarna bit the dust ar around 300 hours. Put the same B&S Opposed engine as you did except it was a 20 hp. I have 2 mowers with Opposed 20hp on them. I love those engines.
How u can say that it’s because of the fuel getting into the oil is a joke lol 😂 the state of the engine under the hood it like it’s never been lifted in years , maybe a quick check and a top up would have averted an engine swap !
Beware of Greeks giving you gifts. Make sure that float. Isn't full of gas when you shake it. I've had two of them so far. And you couldn't tell on the metal brass one but you can tell on the plastic ones by holding it in the light. That carburetor pump goes bad pretty often. My nephew was using it and Float went to the bottom and it acts like it's flooding. They don't guarantee nothing period when it becomes two floats. I've had them last one year or two years and then they went to crap. Putting in Springs in is no big thing. Getting that main jet out ain't never got it done. They just strip. It had so much white and that carburetor. I like never got it clean. Enough Rich run and everything ready to run. Make sure you run good gas. That doesn't have ethanol. Or you will pay for it. Whenever it sets
Jeff, the father-in-law, to not keep up on the oil is the sign of a not so mechanical fambilly. Not like the Jeff character. But that is what we normal people do, fix the girls stuff. Sort of our job. Some men are simply girls. Unfortunate. Surprised the Jeff character did not use a long punch through the provided hole to tap off the pulley. But hey, there was a rod belt guide in the way which needed removed first, another two bolts. The Jeff uses brute force which is easier if it does come off. My back isn't Jeff style.
Yeah checking oil levels are just for loosers to have to do before each use. Dam those kohlers. I've got 2 kohlers over 20 years old use zero oil and never been left stranded. Change oil every season and do tune up every 2 seasons.
Geez... I sent the better part of a week diagnosing and throwing parts at my brakes 12.5 that had a really slow crank on it. I finally got it started and cut half the yard until the motor sound like it started straining really hard white smoke came out so I shut it off. Now when I try to hand turn the engine it sounds like it's hitting something on either side of a quarter turn. So basically $100 later I got it running and now I have to hope and pray that motor isn't destroyed. It almost seems like a push rod or something is keeping the engine from turning more than a quarter of a rotation. Can move it with my hand though. Any ideas before crack this thing open?
Follow up to Koehler Courage Gas in the oil.. there has been a recall since 2018 on this exact engine issue. Without seeing your video I would have never thought to check..can’t wait to see what Koehler does to rectify this issue.. so don’t throw that old one away!
There's something you might want to be mindful of is when you're changing the float needle there may be a rubber tip on it and other float needles will not have a rubber tip but have a rubber seat down inside the seat. If you use air to clean the needle seat you may lose the rubber and the carb will flood.
New subscriber here and I am absolutely thrilled to see the opposed twin being used. I love these engines.Thank you for showing everything. I was a chemical engineer until I was run over on my antique Harley. I decided I want to do something I enjoy . I am starting a small engine repair and rebuild shop . Thanks for the inspiration.I love how you used all the key words in the description!! That is awesome. I hope that led many other people to your videos because they are fantastic.
Jeso flippin sheeit sticks.. Helps to make sure engines have oil before u start cutting the grass. Generally. Either replace needle n seat or put a shut off valve on fuel line. Man u needa thin out the heard of wild mowers ya got in there.. like a push mower zoo. Some endangered species there So u gave ur dad a good talking too bout that oil checkin thing right?
the diagnosis was incorrect the problem with those engines is the valve cover gasket leaks like a sive oil gets low bearings suffer there fate was prolly one mow away from going threw the block
I prefer a gravity feed fuel system. No fuel pump to fail. I just install a shutoff valve in the fuel line and close the valve at every shutdown and let the engine run out of gas. Not only does it prevent fuel getting past the needle valve but it also allows the mower to be stored with the carb “dry”, just in case something should happens that I don’t use the mower for an extended period of time. If father in-law isn’t checking/changing his oil, I wouldn’t install a great engine in his mower because this likely isn’t going to be your last trip to this rodeo!
@ about 1:16 he touches the pipes going to the muffler, was that to see if the coil was working ? Sometimes those twin coil go bad and only fire one cylinder. The mower will still run. So you pull one plug wire off the spark plug. If it still runs reapply the spark plug wire and check the other side. IF it dies you know only only one cylinder is getting fire. And the coil is bad. Beware of the spark, it is shocking.
i have to work on my toro so much, i don't even worry about putting the hood back on, when I was a young man Kohler was the top of the line motor to have, these are crap. when mine slings something through the block I'll strip the generic parts off then have the magnet at the scrap yard unload it off my truck
Hi friend... I have a B&S 17.0 HP I/C OHV Bolens lawn mower that will run perfect for about 15 minutes (guess) and then will start pulsing in power loss. (I hope that describes it OK). Would you have any suggestion as to what could be causing it? I have to stop the blades from spinning, wait for it to smooth out and continue mowing until it does it again. I have to keep doing this until I finish mowing my yard. Thanks John!
Sounds like the gas cap isn’t venting. When it starts losing power next time unscrew the gas cap. If it starts running correctly you know it’s the cap that is the problem.
@@andybecker2693 Thanks, a buddy told me the same thing, so I used a pop rivet to poke the hole in the center of the top of the gas cap, and it ran fine. The next time I mowed, it malfunctioned again. My gas line does dip down lower than the carb, I'm thinking I need to address that issue to shorten the gas line to remove the dip.
I have a weird problem with mine. The speed control lever moves up and down just fine with all the components underneath. Yet, engine runs at high speed only, regardless where the speed control lever is. In other words, it only has 1 speed, and it is high.
Long after your engine swap.... could you have put a heat gun on the tank to get it flexible enuf to bend it away from engine shroud? The tank swap was good but I hated you had to cut the hole into the tower to get to the cap of the gas tank.
Probably be better if you just cut the other part of plug off the kohler, remove the wires then push the corresponding needed wires into correct hole where they need to go. Then you could just plug it in to the other end on the mower. Doing it this way you shouldn't have to cut and splice any wires. Thanks for the Vids! :)
Tx for the video Jeff. Haven’t seen you in a while. You were one of the first guys I started watching on RUclips along with Mustie and Yaryl. I like your videos bc they don’t get too technical and explain in an easy way to understand. Good job on this cub cadet
I wonder sometimes if commenters actually watch the videos they criticize. My personal favorite was the comment suggesting "just tune it up and it will run great". What part of metal chunks on the dipstick would be fixed by a new plug and fresh gas??
1. A maps torch will get that exhaust hot enough to easily bend. No need for the hammer on that. 2. Assuming things about wires and electricity will cost you eventually. For one thing, the charge regulators on different motors may work differently. Hooking in wires without knowing exactly what is what can blow a regulator. I have a frankenstein mower I built last year that has this exact issue and instead of messing with it and wasting time and money, I just left it alone and didn't connect any wires at all. The engine wants to run, it doesn't need the electrical connections to run. A fully charged healthy battery will easily start that engine 20 times or more. So what I do is mow the yard like I normally would, starting and stopping if and when I need to. Then when I'm done and I park the mower in the shed, I shut off the fuel and run it out until it dies, then hook up the solar charger to the battery and it'll be ready next time. And regardless of whether you have a frankenstein like mine or not, running out the fuel and keeping the battery on a solar charger will save $$$$ in the long run from not having to buy batteries or do carb work, ethanol or not, but especially with ethanol.
good info jeff i had a kholer die have a 2017 troy built rider got a new 19 briggs have it put in runs but lights stay on . ? how i solve this issues thanks james
I have a fairly new troybilt garden tractor with a Kohler courage that has been nothing but problems, I have been thinking about putting the opposed twin off my Murray ultra on the troybilt, seeing what little modification it took for you Im going to attempt it
When installing the pump as you are you can install studs or dowels in the pump body. The simplest would be wooden dowels just slightly tight. Next install internal parts Put the internal spring in before the diaphragm, then the diaphragm over the dowels/studs will hold it in place. A very small bit of grease at the bottom of the springs in the cover should hold them in place. Then just place the cover over the installed parts .Once the cover is in place remove one dowel/stud at a time and replace with cover screws. No fumbling job done right the first and only time. Remember, use fuel compatible grease if needed.
Unfortunately the Kohler Courage is not as good as the older Kohler engines were. I have replaced many of these Courage engines on tractors as well. And not due to lack of maintenance. They are just bad engines. I have had several that the lower connecting rod cap has come off and busted the crankcase which then renders the engine junk. Never have I had a Briggs engine do something like this. Older Kohler engines were great, newer ones, not so much.
Okay the fuel shut off part. Where you said you didn't use it. My opposed hooked right into the newer cub. I left that wire.. I have a random backfire could that be this?
I don't often comment, good details on changing out a motor, but I had to say that air hose reel idea is awesome. I'll be on the hunt for a frame to use.
Thanks for watching friend!
if mainteneced properly those old briggs opposed twins will live very long lives.i have a 1986 16 horse i used summer & winter for 27 years.took it apart to inspect before putting on snowplow only tractor.crank looked like new with .003 rods clearence to crank.i was shocked.every gasket on it leaked but was still in spec after 27 years.did have to adjust valves twice during those years.unbelievable for a splash lube engine.it still runs fantastic without all the leaks.pennzoil must be doing something right for such little wear over 27 years of year round use.i believe maintence was the key to its longevity.just dont neglect or over rev them, & all is good.
Those B&S opposed twin engines are awesome.
no doubt
The ol briggs might burn some oil, but will still outlive a couple more courage singles. The courage
motors are the embodiment of a bic lighter, disposable.
you got that right! lol
That Kohler single....China made. Most kolhers made in wi. That single has given kolher a bad name...
Where did you get the muffler assembly.
Each to his own butt I believe that kit also would have 2 base plate gaskets in it I would have just taken the carburetor all the way off and just took it to the work bench and had a seat and a big glass of ice tea and it would have been a lot easier to clean up and rebuild the pump all he would have had to do was to put a little bit of grease on the spring that went in the carb body and laid the pump on the bench and set the carb down onto it and held it in place then picked it up and put the screws or little bolts in it and a lot easier on the back?
good tips!
Several years back I was replacing an engine on a craftsman with a twin opposed briggs. The engine had been sitting unused on a mower for about 18 months. Before swapping I got the crazy idea to pull the covers for inspection. Found dirt dauber nests, paper wasp nest, and on one cylinder I found half a snake skin shed, the other half was on the other cylinder. Thankfully the snake was gone. If an engine has been sitting for a while, I think it’s a good idea to check under the covers.
Love
Yeah I seen a guy on RUclips that had a push mower that was running so hot the muffler looked like it was gonna fall of from being so hot. He took the cover off to find a mouse had packed dirt and leaves and straw all I'm the fins and case of he air hat. No wonder she was so 🔥🥵
I had Briggs motor on a riding mower, that a mouse had built a nest back in behind the heat shield cover plate and was making the motor get hot. Them aggravating mice and mud dobbers and wasppers can sure make a mess .
I think most of the 19 and 20 hp Kohlers Courage engines are bad. I've replaced a few of them. Good job!!
Hope your father-in-law doesn't mind you cuddling all over his new Cub cadet lawn mowers I can't really feel it cobbler like that got a junkyard for the engines and you would pick that one instead of a collar that would actually fit cuz you not only have to cover that hole you have to come home for the headlight switch and alcohol over the extra choke cable so that's two holes passed with the factory put in
Why didn’t you just tune it up why everything was outside before you bolted it in it seems like you’re working backwards
I guess sometimes I move backwards when repairing stuff....As long as the end result is success I am happy.
Good diagnosis, it's best to check the oil level every time before starting any mower because I experienced a gasoline flooded crankcase about 20 years ago myself realizing what had happened by the high level and smell of gasoline after checking the dipstick, I drained the crankcase added fresh oil, filter, and a fuel shut off valve and never had another issue, afterwards every gravity fed mower I ever purchased to this day I installed and used the fuel shut off valve every time the engine wasn't running. Always check the oil level as a habit just to be safe, yeah it's a real pain in the ass to most but it's the every day piece of mind and assurance just knowing that you will not blow up your engine because this happened and have to replace it, or even worst forking out top dollars for a whole new mower.
Where did you mount the fuel shut off valve?
@@tedbrewer7847 Mount the valve between the filter and the fuel tank to make filter changes easier and less messy you'll need to clamp off the fuel line from the tank initially to install it, then in the future just run the engine with the valve closed until the engine runs dry to eliminate most gasoline leakage from either end of the line when changing the filter.
@@Serpico1152 did you find a particular spot to screw it down?
@@tedbrewer7847 No it's supposed to be suspended on the fuel line just like the fuel filter but I used 2 small cable ties to fasten it on each hose side of the valve at the 2 clamps to a parallel running fuel vent hose that goes from the intake manifold back up to the top area of the fuel tank to make turning it on and off more stable and secure to use one hand instead of having to hold it steady to keep the hose from twisting.
The charging coil underneath the flywheel can be changed to a single wire regulator type on the opposed twins, to power electric blade clutch. They along with the external regulator are available on ebay. Used charging coils and new regulator. I swapped one for use on a cub with electric clutch.
I had an old Craftsman riding mower with the Briggs 16HP twin engine I bought for $50. Got it running real good and then went and mowed grass & weeds 3 feet tall. NO PROBLEM! Sold it later for $150.
Damn near impossible to stall those engines.
B&S shoulda never stopped producing them.
If you're removing the engine anyway, start it up just to establish its condition.
lol! chickens
Always put a shut-off on a gravity feed system. It will save many engines! FYI
Looks like your father in-law don't take care of his equipment very well!
He normally does, I think this engine design was the problem. I have seen it before
Great video Jeff, those old Briggs Twins are very stout motors and have quite respectable power for not making that much horsepower, but at least now that Cub Cadet will be a reliable tractor.
I agree! thanks for the comment
kohler makes good engines i have a 16 horse on a 1990 cub cadet that i use daily
@@victorwanstreet3038 The older K-series and Magnum engines were very good engines, and the early Command engines were good too, it's just when the Courage engines (particularly the single cylinder variants) came out, that started kickstarting Kohler's downfall in quality.
That's why I put a gas valve on all of my mowers, and motorcycles, good video!
Right on
How old is your father fella. I can see when you opened the hood the amount of dust and lack of maintenance is obvious. You check engine oil every time you get ready to start and use the tractor. This is common for WOMEN to DO this BUMBLE.
lack of maint. is what kills a lot of eng i am 87 never had to replace an eng. i have a 1953 dodge that purrs like a kitten it an m37 4/4 ton
TIP: run the hole saw backwards in soft plastic like that.
Nice job Jeff; Those were some of the best engines Briggs ever made. Wish they still made them. Thanks
I agree
@@JeffsLittleEngineService Briggs 40 and 42 -series engines pound their exhaust valve seats into the block until their is no clearance, then they leak fire and the seat gets loose in the block until it chews block out oversize while it runs on the other cylinder.
Of course that only happens if you start and use it. If it sits safely in a junkyard not running then of course they don't have that problem.
How does that problem come about I guess mines still good it still starts up and idles
Think my free used one leaks a little oil from the ring seal of the dip stick not around the engine case seal just the dip stick it's not that bad though i haven't fixed it yet because that ones mowers transmission has a problem and it needs checked out some time
What a video! Replacing one of the worst mower engines, with one of the best ones!
I place Briggs at the bottom of the list and Kawasaki at the top I had a Kohler 27 hp command on a CC that lasted 16 years, sold it to the neighbor and he's still using it to mow his lawn. the only thing I had to do to it was replace a coil pack on the right bank. and of coarse by the looks of that motor, it was abused and not taken care of. Folks, take care of your equipment.
@@herman5eight I think it depends on the motor. I've only owned a John Deere with a 9HP Kawasaki for half of a year, and that was a pretty good little motor. But I have had much more experience with B&S and Kohler. I like both. I hear from many sources that the B&S Opposed Twin is a pretty dependable motor. My little '94 14HP OHV Single Cylinder is a pretty good motor. Had to be rebuilt 8 years ago, but never gave us any issues since. I've even gotten it to start in -10°F temperatures. I will say that the Intek single cylinder is a piece of shit. We had an '04 model, and it is a far cheaper and less durable motor than my '94. As for Kohler, we have a 23HP Command powering our Berco Snowblower, and that thing throws snow to Jupiter. My grandpa has a GT5000 from the late 90's-early 2000's with a 25HP Command, and that thing is still running. Never been rebuilt, and hasn't seen much maintenance (and is sort of on its last leg), but it's still running. Those Commands are great V-Twins. I like them, and my 14HP B&S.
Many of us have pulled this gag off over and over. The reasons folks blow them kohler motors is purely neglect mostly to change oil and filters.
Wow, some pretty hard comments on the Kohler engines but not having oil in the crankcase is bound to expedite any calamity that ensues. Enjoyed the video, thanks for sharing.
These Cina made Kohler turned Many Especially the Cub Cadets gang as the Use to be..a fairly good Mower now there China Junk Kohler should have made good on the 100's that failed busting & the blocks
You wouldn't have had to jack up the mower to finish putting the carb together if you had removed it first.
Two irritating things in life, Kohler courage engines and a chicken with an attitude. Nicely done Jeff
My Kohler's been trouble free for seven years. No choke required on my tractor.
Mine is the same. It can sit for almost a week straight turn the key without choking it and it will fire right up
He also needs to invest in a air compressor that Engine is covered in dirt
Donations appreciated I imagine.
He has one took of the motor mount bolts with air impact
Air compressor? More like a 3000 psi power washer!
that is why i install a fuel shut off valve in the gas line. if the anti backfire valve on the needle seat goes bad it fills the crankcase with gasoline.
Anti backfire has no control over gas going into crankcase, that is purely controlled by needle & seat. Anti backfire is only to limit most of the gas for the time it takes between switch off and engine stop.
Check your oil folks.
Did you check the oil. Also I would put in fresh oil. MAYBE I missed it on the video. Best engine swap video I have ever seen. Great job and thank you.
Yes I did, thanks for watching!
I have a Kohler Courage and I'm worried
check the oil for gas regularly. maybe install a fuel shut off valve if it is a non fuel pump model.
and you should be
Well I'm happy that this wasn't a two part video. Glad to see the mission completed all in one video. Great job with the engine swap and the carb rebuilding. Have a great day : ) Subscribed
Thanks friend!
😉🙂
The newer carbs have a solenoid to cut fuel off. Have 3 kohler engines great no issues one is 12 years old one other is 15 years old.
i have few kohler that falled on it face never want to run aging n 3rd one lit it self on fire by carburetors it never have been touch it sat for years n first time starting it up n just burn it self down to ground
not worth using kohler anymore
im lucky have kawasaki it run like monster but older it get it will become weaker and owning briggs & Stratton will last forever longer keep oils clean and keep it running for weekend it never failure at all
friends bought use snapper mower in barn find n bought it over say see if fix it (just add gas n pull that baby) man she started up run like beast no maintenance to it n sat in barn for almost 14 years lol oils still clean n never ran for 15 years wow lol
Your new pull cart air hose reel needs a 5lb propane tank on it for an air reservoir. It would not add hardly any weight and would make your rattle gun twice as precious.
WOW! THAT is a genius idea! thanks for the tip!
Oooorrrr, a battery powered Makita or Milwaukee that doesnt require 150 ft of umbilical cord! Double genius!
cut fuel line off put shut off to save the next eng . all gas tanks over eng. should have shut off on!!!! the corporation sells engs. so you get stung for 1000$ for new eng. it is designed that way to sell eng. they make for about 50$
We have a no rooster policy on our little plot. Only hens! If we want new chicks, we just buy them. Let somebody else deal with the damn roosters!
folks should have more sence to check oil and know if its empty or gas filled i have very little compassion for being willfully ignorant LOl
This is why you only have a Kohler 7000 series or Kohler command commercial pro engines ..anything else is unacceptable
Wow one that the pan bolts didn’t wobble loose causing a failure , color me surprised.
I have 2 mowers with the kohler courage engine. I was lucky to catch the bolts loose on the one before they cracked the block
The 19hp Courage on my Husqvarna bit the dust ar around 300 hours. Put the same B&S Opposed engine as you did except it was a 20 hp. I have 2 mowers with Opposed 20hp on them. I love those engines.
my favorite Briggs engine.
How u can say that it’s because of the fuel getting into the oil is a joke lol 😂 the state of the engine under the hood it like it’s never been lifted in years , maybe a quick check and a top up would have averted an engine swap !
I’ve parted out several tractors with those opposed B&S twins and they idle very smoothly.
Yeah but did ya check the oil in the new used engine? Especially after you drug it across the yard upside down?
of course
That's one reason why that it was probably smoking when he first started it up.
I have a 14 horse briggs single thats been mowing grass for 30 plus years it all depends on how they are cared for
you got that right!
Beware of Greeks giving you gifts. Make sure that float. Isn't full of gas when you shake it. I've had two of them so far. And you couldn't tell on the metal brass one but you can tell on the plastic ones by holding it in the light. That carburetor pump goes bad pretty often. My nephew was using it and Float went to the bottom and it acts like it's flooding. They don't guarantee nothing period when it becomes two floats. I've had them last one year or two years and then they went to crap. Putting in Springs in is no big thing. Getting that main jet out ain't never got it done. They just strip. It had so much white and that carburetor. I like never got it clean. Enough Rich run and everything ready to run. Make sure you run good gas. That doesn't have ethanol. Or you will pay for it. Whenever it sets
Jeff, the father-in-law, to not keep up on the oil is the sign of a not so mechanical fambilly. Not like the Jeff character. But that is what we normal people do, fix the girls stuff. Sort of our job. Some men are simply girls. Unfortunate. Surprised the Jeff character did not use a long punch through the provided hole to tap off the pulley. But hey, there was a rod belt guide in the way which needed removed first, another two bolts. The Jeff uses brute force which is easier if it does come off. My back isn't Jeff style.
LOL! Thanks for the comment! I am sure you are a good mechanic everyone does it different . The way it is most convenient at the time
Kohler Courage engines are great!! Properly taken care of; you can get many years use out of them as boat anchors!!
lol!
Yeah checking oil levels are just for loosers to have to do before each use. Dam those kohlers. I've got 2 kohlers over 20 years old use zero oil and never been left stranded. Change oil every season and do tune up every 2 seasons.
“Untorqued crankcase bolt meet mr flywheel”-Kohler courage engines.
Didn't Briggs get sued for over rating their engines' power? Now everything is Torque power, way to go Briggs.
@@jessemalone8363 dont forget the balancing shaft failing blowing the back of the cases out also
Got job explaining each step, I Still got my 2015 Kohler 22hp
cub cadet, and it’s still going!
NICE!
Same engine I put on mine best briggs ever made
I like em!
@@JeffsLittleEngineService yes sr i think there one ofvtge best ever made easy to work on
Geez... I sent the better part of a week diagnosing and throwing parts at my brakes 12.5 that had a really slow crank on it. I finally got it started and cut half the yard until the motor sound like it started straining really hard white smoke came out so I shut it off. Now when I try to hand turn the engine it sounds like it's hitting something on either side of a quarter turn. So basically $100 later I got it running and now I have to hope and pray that motor isn't destroyed. It almost seems like a push rod or something is keeping the engine from turning more than a quarter of a rotation. Can move it with my hand though. Any ideas before crack this thing open?
Sorry to say it sounds like a broken rod
Follow up to Koehler Courage Gas in the oil.. there has been a recall since 2018 on this exact engine issue. Without seeing your video I would have never thought to check..can’t wait to see what Koehler does to rectify this issue.. so don’t throw that old one away!
I am on year 12 with a kholer courage 20 I have replaced the starter and the carb once each . That's it .
Why dudnt you just clip the plug off the destroyed engine and use what wires you needed so you have a proper sealed plug in
That's what I thought, also .
There's something you might want to be mindful of is when you're changing the float needle there may be a rubber tip on it and other float needles will not have a rubber tip but have a rubber seat down inside the seat. If you use air to clean the needle seat you may lose the rubber and the carb will flood.
Good tip
New subscriber here and I am absolutely thrilled to see the opposed twin being used. I love these engines.Thank you for showing everything. I was a chemical engineer until I was run over on my antique Harley. I decided I want to do something I enjoy . I am starting a small engine repair and rebuild shop . Thanks for the inspiration.I love how you used all the key words in the description!! That is awesome. I hope that led many other people to your videos because they are fantastic.
Thank you very much!
Jeso flippin sheeit sticks.. Helps to make sure engines have oil before u start cutting the grass. Generally. Either replace needle n seat or put a shut off valve on fuel line. Man u needa thin out the heard of wild mowers ya got in there.. like a push mower zoo. Some endangered species there
So u gave ur dad a good talking too bout that oil checkin thing right?
yep. I showed him the sticker by the oil dipstick that says to check oil before every mow
Myself I think I would have used the plastic connector from the old engine and rewired into that but that just me Great video enjoyed it
yeah I shoulda done that
the diagnosis was incorrect the problem with those engines is the valve cover gasket leaks like a sive oil gets low bearings suffer there fate was prolly one mow away from going threw the block
yes I have seen many leaking valve covers on this model
@18:04. where's the airhose when you need it?! OH, THAT'S RIGHT, LEFT IT IN THE BACK 40!
Dag gummit!
I prefer a gravity feed fuel system. No fuel pump to fail. I just install a shutoff valve in the fuel line and close the valve at every shutdown and let the engine run out of gas. Not only does it prevent fuel getting past the needle valve but it also allows the mower to be stored with the carb “dry”, just in case something should happens that I don’t use the mower for an extended period of time. If father in-law isn’t checking/changing his oil, I wouldn’t install a great engine in his mower because this likely isn’t going to be your last trip to this rodeo!
good tips! lol!
He will check and maintain it for him
Which is Better between Kohler, and Briggs and Stratton, and Kawasaki Engine....????
I like Briggs, then Kawasaki.
@ about 1:16 he touches the pipes going to the muffler, was that to see if the coil was working ? Sometimes those twin coil go bad and only fire one cylinder. The mower will still run. So you pull one plug wire off the spark plug. If it still runs reapply the spark plug wire and check the other side. IF it dies you know only only one cylinder is getting fire. And the coil is bad. Beware of the spark, it is shocking.
Yes sir that is exactly what I was doing! Good observation
U know what i say about auto-light plugs? I say autolight but they dont😂
I always install a quarter turn fuel shut off on gravity feed fuel systems. And remember to switch the fuel off when you arent using the engine
Please invest in heat shrink wire wrap and butt connectors. Will prevent moisture from entering wire connection. #licenced electrician 15 years
Excellent advice. That heat shrink is expensive!!!
i have to work on my toro so much, i don't even worry about putting the hood back on, when I was a young man Kohler was the top of the line motor to have, these are crap. when mine slings something through the block I'll strip the generic parts off then have the magnet at the scrap yard unload it off my truck
Hi friend...
I have a B&S 17.0 HP I/C OHV Bolens lawn mower that will run perfect for about 15 minutes (guess) and then will start pulsing in power loss. (I hope that describes it OK). Would you have any suggestion as to what could be causing it?
I have to stop the blades from spinning, wait for it to smooth out and continue mowing until it does it again. I have to keep doing this until I finish mowing my yard.
Thanks John!
It sounds like you may have contaminents in your fuel system. Fuel tank, fuel lines carburetor etc...
Sounds like the gas cap isn’t venting. When it starts losing power next time unscrew the gas cap. If it starts running correctly you know it’s the cap that is the problem.
@@andybecker2693 Thanks, a buddy told me the same thing, so I used a pop rivet to poke the hole in the center of the top of the gas cap, and it ran fine. The next time I mowed, it malfunctioned again. My gas line does dip down lower than the carb, I'm thinking I need to address that issue to shorten the gas line to remove the dip.
I’ve never had much luck with auto light spark plugs either, but that’s just me
I have a weird problem with mine. The speed control lever moves up and down just fine with all the components underneath. Yet, engine runs at high speed only, regardless where the speed control lever is. In other words, it only has 1 speed, and it is high.
Throttle speed or drive speed?
Throttle and drive speed. @@JeffsLittleEngineService
Engine smoked because it was tilted during swap,causing oil to run into the cylinders.
Tilting is a nono to small engines.
Long after your engine swap.... could you have put a heat gun on the tank to get it flexible enuf to bend it away from engine shroud? The tank swap was good but I hated you had to cut the hole into the tower to get to the cap of the gas tank.
That sounds like it might work!
Probably be better if you just cut the other part of plug off the kohler, remove the wires then push the corresponding needed wires into correct hole where they need to go. Then you could just plug it in to the other end on the mower. Doing it this way you shouldn't have to cut and splice any wires. Thanks for the Vids! :)
yeah I shoulda have done that
I love twin air cooled mower engines. I don’t like the water cooled Kawasaki motors. I don’t know why.
Because radiators have finely spaced fins no good for dusty trashy conditions, unlike air cool fins with more space.
Tx for the video Jeff. Haven’t seen you in a while. You were one of the first guys I started watching on RUclips along with Mustie and Yaryl. I like your videos bc they don’t get too technical and explain in an easy way to understand. Good job on this cub cadet
Thanks for watching friend!
Excellent job!! Tough to put that fuel pump together with the carb off let alone with it on the engine!!
sometimes I do things the hard way to save time! lol!
I wonder sometimes if commenters actually watch the videos they criticize. My personal favorite was the comment suggesting "just tune it up and it will run great". What part of metal chunks on the dipstick would be fixed by a new plug and fresh gas??
Can't have ethanol gas sitting in there long gumd up the entire carb turns to jelly
I have a ported polished 17.5hp putting out 24+ hp, love it
Forget B&S, I would use Honda engines. Most reliable and fuel efficient.
Briggs and Stratton because AMERICAAAAA
1. A maps torch will get that exhaust hot enough to easily bend. No need for the hammer on that.
2. Assuming things about wires and electricity will cost you eventually. For one thing, the charge regulators on different motors may work differently. Hooking in wires without knowing exactly what is what can blow a regulator. I have a frankenstein mower I built last year that has this exact issue and instead of messing with it and wasting time and money, I just left it alone and didn't connect any wires at all. The engine wants to run, it doesn't need the electrical connections to run. A fully charged healthy battery will easily start that engine 20 times or more. So what I do is mow the yard like I normally would, starting and stopping if and when I need to. Then when I'm done and I park the mower in the shed, I shut off the fuel and run it out until it dies, then hook up the solar charger to the battery and it'll be ready next time. And regardless of whether you have a frankenstein like mine or not, running out the fuel and keeping the battery on a solar charger will save $$$$ in the long run from not having to buy batteries or do carb work, ethanol or not, but especially with ethanol.
great idea on the air cart i have the same prob my junk yard is aprox 100 yds i will be on your idea for myself tomorrow i cannot thank you enough
Nice! I like my setup
If you're gonna get mid-evil you'll need one of these 🗡 Chunk you given' daddy a hard time 🐔 Wow that fuel pump ain't no fun ! Bolted up nice 👍
LOL! Hi Bill!
Y'all shoulda just ran out for beer and told the Chicken to have at it & get busy asap.. By the time ya came back it woulda been done
good info jeff i had a kholer die have a 2017 troy built rider got a new 19 briggs have it put in runs but lights stay on . ? how i solve this issues thanks james
run the hole saw in reverse it'll treat ya better
If you pulled the cover off the engine you will find it's plugged the cooling fins with grass, if you check the oil before use this would not happen.
I probably would use the Briggs but most of what I have is Kohler so that's what i use. I use other people's Kohlers to on they're zero turns
My 10 year old 26hp Koehler leaks like a sive, while my 30 year old B&S keeps on running great. The Koehler never has run right. POS!
I might weld this old John deere muffler onto my craftsmen may have to extend the pipe a little to make it fit then it'll sound quite like a car
I have a fairly new troybilt garden tractor with a Kohler courage that has been nothing but problems, I have been thinking about putting the opposed twin off my Murray ultra on the troybilt, seeing what little modification it took for you Im going to attempt it
When installing the pump as you are you can install studs or dowels in the pump body. The simplest would be wooden dowels just slightly tight. Next install internal parts Put the internal spring in before the diaphragm, then the diaphragm over the dowels/studs will hold it in place. A very small bit of grease at the bottom of the springs in the cover should hold them in place. Then just place the cover over the installed parts .Once the cover is in place remove one dowel/stud at a time and replace with cover screws. No fumbling job done right the first and only time. Remember, use fuel compatible grease if needed.
good tips!
that thumbnail threw me off a bit... A couple months ago I sold a LTX1042 with an opposed that I put on it... lol
FFS become metric, mm
Unfortunately the Kohler Courage is not as good as the older Kohler engines were. I have replaced many of these Courage engines on tractors as well. And not due to lack of maintenance. They are just bad engines. I have had several that the lower connecting rod cap has come off and busted the crankcase which then renders the engine junk. Never have I had a Briggs engine do something like this. Older Kohler engines were great, newer ones, not so much.
I agree, CRAP!
Okay the fuel shut off part. Where you said you didn't use it. My opposed hooked right into the newer cub. I left that wire.. I have a random backfire could that be this?
You just went to one piece of shit to another ! Lol
Run the hole saw backwards in these cases..... Works much better, with much, much more control.
why didnt you just cut the connector off from the courage engine to splice into the briggs instead of hacking that up?
That would have been a good idea