Interesting. But what about the movement of the cabin itself? Apparently the logs can expand or contract and worst case gaps can open up between the logs. I notice you've secured the studding with L brackets. Can you advise on the above as I'm considering buying a log cabin and wondered about insulation.
Hi, as you noticed I did use some brackets to secure the studs to the walls and yes it will expand and contract, I was surprised as to how much it did expand over the winter. The brackets used can be found in wickes product number 246005 they worked great. I secured them to the stud with the slot going vertical, I then secured the bracket to the main walls of the cabin with a screw in the centre of the slot, I didn’t tighten the screw fully so it could move inside the slot when the walls expand and contract. It’s worked great and I’ve had no cracks at all in the plaster. I’ll do a video explaining what I did as I’ve been asked a few times now, I’ll also do a video on the expansion during the winter months. I also used plastic cladding on the ceiling which isn’t directly attached to the walls to allow the ceiling to move up and down with the expansion of the building. Hope this helped 👍
Hi, I attached my stud work to the external walls with a 90deg bracket with a slotted hole so the exterior walls can move within the slot when the walls expand and contract, 6 months in they ain’t no cracking.
Hi, planning on insulating my summerhouse just as you have here, has there been any issues with internal condensation behind the plaster and has the foil/bubble wrap performed as vapour barrier proper? TIA
Hi, we’ve not had any or I’ve not noticed any issues with condensation behind the plaster. So I’m guessing the bubble wrap is acting as a vapour barrier 👍
Ive been looking at doing mine and was advised to create a cavity between the walls and insulation for air flow. Youve obviously not done that so does yours come with risk of moisture build up behind the insulation?
There is a very small gap between the boards and insulation, I’ve had no issues with moisture/ condensation or mould. It’s been up a year now without any problems
Waste $$$ and 7:36 x then there's the british accent. We won't go any further down the with the patriots. Sun is shining so try like he'll to have a good day.
Still needs a heater in there for when it gets cold, I think in any building you need a significant amount of insulation for it to actually make a difference, for the money and the purpose of the building it’s done just fine
Hi mate - about to do something similar and found your video very useful. Couple of questions: 1. When building your stud frame did you build the frame separately and lift it into place then attach with brackets. If you know what I mean. Rather than build it directly against wall. So for example build the frame on the floor then lift into place. 2. Did the insulation you use help with soundproofing 3. What width/size was the stud wood. Thanks 😊
Hi, I built the frame separately, screwed it to the floor and used brackets to fix it to the exterior walls, the brackets I used had a slot in them which I fixed to the exterior wall with the screw in the middle of the slot, I thought this would allow for the expansion/contraction of the walls and so far it has worked great with no cracks or movement in the plaster on the inside. The insulation worked well with soundproofing, it still gets cold in the winter but holds the heat well with a heater on. I used 38x89x2400 cls timber, originally I was going to build a room from scratch but after doing the calculations with the price of materials at the time it worked out cheaper to buy a complete room. So I had bought the cls before hand and had it ready to go so I used that, you could get away with using 38x63x2400. Hope this helps, I’m planing on doing a video on how I attached the studs to the walls as I’ve been asked a few times
Hi Tom, looking to do the same with my log cabin where it’s been recommended to first apply a breathable membrane to the interior wall and then follow with foil insulation and then studs. Is there a reason you didn’t use breathable membrane on yours?
No reason, I’d seen lots of different ways when doing research on how to do it that it became a minefield in what was right to do, I’ve had no issues at the minute with damp or mould
Hi Tom great build was wondering if you can put some more information about how you done your stud work as I'm confused what are these brackets look like and how did u actually fit them to the walls please as it sounds a great idea thanks
I used some 90 degree brackets to fix them to the outer walls, one half had a round hole that I screwed to the stud and the other half of the bracket had slot that I attached to the outer wall, the screw was center of the slot to allow movement either way, I screwed the stud to the floor without any brackets and didn’t attach the walls at all to the ceiling, it worked really well over the winter. The ceiling rose about 20mm and now the summer is back it’s gone back down to the position when installed, I haven’t had any cracking in the plaster at all. Thanks
Staples is cheaper and better than Adhesive. It hold lot more better> I know i put insulation on my roof. and the staples works the best> Using adhesive made the insulation hang and started pulling down. Also you can put a piece of plastic on the insulation and staple it. but i didn't have to do that. Bam, bam, bam, done deal
Luckily I’ve not put anything on the ceiling/ roof as of yet so I’m looking into having something in between the insulation and the finished roof just to stop the sag that’s already started to happen in places, damn gravity! 😂
@@rockycycling2102 At less 8" round logs. That not real big logs either. What so cool about a log cabin. IS? Will be cold out side and warm inside about a week. Then if warm out side, its cool inside for about a week. b4 it evens out. There easy to heat up and cool down. All i use is a fireplace and window units.. It had central air and heat but the dang electric bill was around 500 dollars a month. Going with the fireplace and the window units is now > 58 dollars a month💲💲 BIG BIG SAVINGS
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thermicly? 😂😂😂 thermally Tom, thermally!!!!
Interesting. But what about the movement of the cabin itself?
Apparently the logs can expand or contract and worst case gaps can open up between the logs.
I notice you've secured the studding with L brackets.
Can you advise on the above as I'm considering buying a log cabin and wondered about insulation.
Hi, as you noticed I did use some brackets to secure the studs to the walls and yes it will expand and contract, I was surprised as to how much it did expand over the winter. The brackets used can be found in wickes product number 246005 they worked great. I secured them to the stud with the slot going vertical, I then secured the bracket to the main walls of the cabin with a screw in the centre of the slot, I didn’t tighten the screw fully so it could move inside the slot when the walls expand and contract. It’s worked great and I’ve had no cracks at all in the plaster. I’ll do a video explaining what I did as I’ve been asked a few times now, I’ll also do a video on the expansion during the winter months.
I also used plastic cladding on the ceiling which isn’t directly attached to the walls to allow the ceiling to move up and down with the expansion of the building. Hope this helped 👍
Hi Tom, can you please tell me how did you deal with your log cabin movement? any cracks in plasterboard? cheers
Hi, I attached my stud work to the external walls with a 90deg bracket with a slotted hole so the exterior walls can move within the slot when the walls expand and contract, 6 months in they ain’t no cracking.
Hi, planning on insulating my summerhouse just as you have here, has there been any issues with internal condensation behind the plaster and has the foil/bubble wrap performed as vapour barrier proper? TIA
Hi, we’ve not had any or I’ve not noticed any issues with condensation behind the plaster. So I’m guessing the bubble wrap is acting as a vapour barrier 👍
American accent was golden 😂😂
Ive been looking at doing mine and was advised to create a cavity between the walls and insulation for air flow. Youve obviously not done that so does yours come with risk of moisture build up behind the insulation?
I notice this is the only question not to be answered 😂
There is a very small gap between the boards and insulation, I’ve had no issues with moisture/ condensation or mould. It’s been up a year now without any problems
Waste $$$ and 7:36 x then there's the british
accent. We won't go any further down the with the patriots. Sun is shining so try like he'll to have a good day.
Question: Can this be done on the external wall instead as i wish to conserve space.
Nice video😊
You could do it externally but you would have to put a covering on such as cladding. 👍
Hi Tom
I will be doing the same insulation as you after watching your video. How is the insulation with the heat in the winter ?
Still needs a heater in there for when it gets cold, I think in any building you need a significant amount of insulation for it to actually make a difference, for the money and the purpose of the building it’s done just fine
Can you tell us the size of the cabin and the cost for all the insulation and wood please
Got a vid on my channel with all that info if you want to check it out, thanks
Hi mate - about to do something similar and found your video very useful. Couple of questions:
1. When building your stud frame did you build the frame separately and lift it into place then attach with brackets. If you know what I mean. Rather than build it directly against wall. So for example build the frame on the floor then lift into place.
2. Did the insulation you use help with soundproofing
3. What width/size was the stud wood.
Thanks 😊
Hi, I built the frame separately, screwed it to the floor and used brackets to fix it to the exterior walls, the brackets I used had a slot in them which I fixed to the exterior wall with the screw in the middle of the slot, I thought this would allow for the expansion/contraction of the walls and so far it has worked great with no cracks or movement in the plaster on the inside.
The insulation worked well with soundproofing, it still gets cold in the winter but holds the heat well with a heater on.
I used 38x89x2400 cls timber, originally I was going to build a room from scratch but after doing the calculations with the price of materials at the time it worked out cheaper to buy a complete room. So I had bought the cls before hand and had it ready to go so I used that, you could get away with using 38x63x2400.
Hope this helps, I’m planing on doing a video on how I attached the studs to the walls as I’ve been asked a few times
@ thanks for this much appreciated 🤟
Hi Tom, looking to do the same with my log cabin where it’s been recommended to first apply a breathable membrane to the interior wall and then follow with foil insulation and then studs. Is there a reason you didn’t use breathable membrane on yours?
No reason, I’d seen lots of different ways when doing research on how to do it that it became a minefield in what was right to do, I’ve had no issues at the minute with damp or mould
Hi Tom great build was wondering if you can put some more information about how you done your stud work as I'm confused what are these brackets look like and how did u actually fit them to the walls please as it sounds a great idea thanks
I used some 90 degree brackets to fix them to the outer walls, one half had a round hole that I screwed to the stud and the other half of the bracket had slot that I attached to the outer wall, the screw was center of the slot to allow movement either way, I screwed the stud to the floor without any brackets and didn’t attach the walls at all to the ceiling, it worked really well over the winter. The ceiling rose about 20mm and now the summer is back it’s gone back down to the position when installed, I haven’t had any cracking in the plaster at all.
Thanks
How about the floor? Did you insulate it?
Yes, used the same insulation as in the walss
That is a shame to cover the beautiful wood
Yes, and the Swiss seem to cope without it!
Staples is cheaper and better than Adhesive. It hold lot more better> I know i put insulation on my roof. and the staples works the best> Using adhesive made the insulation hang and started pulling down. Also you can put a piece of plastic on the insulation and staple it. but i didn't have to do that. Bam, bam, bam, done deal
Luckily I’ve not put anything on the ceiling/ roof as of yet so I’m looking into having something in between the insulation and the finished roof just to stop the sag that’s already started to happen in places, damn gravity! 😂
@@Thetomrichardson You will fine some thing he heee
Fine some plastic, Like coffee can lids even the metal bottoms ect. cut some 2 1/2" circles, and staple it on the insulation. Mine is still holding up
Im not sure that sealing it all up with that silver stuff is a good idea. I could be wrong.
18 months in and we’ve had no issues so far, hopefully it stays that way
@@Thetomrichardson thanks for the update.
Why you trying to sound like Jimmy Saville?
There no need to insulate a real log cabin. The logs are thick enough. Only thing is needed to insulate is the Roof or Attic
💯
How thick do you consider a real log cabin?
@@rockycycling2102 At less 8" round logs. That not real big logs either. What so cool about a log cabin. IS? Will be cold out side and warm inside about a week. Then if warm out side, its cool inside for about a week. b4 it evens out. There easy to heat up and cool down. All i use is a fireplace and window units.. It had central air and heat but the dang electric bill was around 500 dollars a month. Going with the fireplace and the window units is now > 58 dollars a month💲💲 BIG BIG SAVINGS
I think the thickness of the log cabin wood in this video is more likely 28mm, 34mm or 40mm....
@@rockycycling2102 That pretty thin
as if inches isnt a brit thing lol
Old school over here 🤣