Sir you know the art to teach. You put University lessons into understandable concepts that anybody with comon sense is able to follow and apply. Seems you too read many manuals on machines and vehicles dated from WW2 and the fifties. (many were itched in brass and riveted right onto the machine at each operating point) A bright smile and big thumbs up.
As a young man I work for a Falk warranty and re-man shop in Phoenix where some of the reduction boxes had to be split and come on two or even three oversized semi loads. This is where I learned gear set-up as well as machining. I miss that job, always interesting stuff to learn there. Great video, explains it well. But I do believe most common Ford 9" are low pinion so they dropped the interface down. I have heard of high pinion Ford 9" but I don't remember ever seeing one . . . But I see more Eaton, Rockwell size stuff.
It was a Flender gearbox that had the gear set in it that caused me to learn more, I have also worked on Hanson, Dodge, Who-knows, and maybe a Falk, but not a lot of Falk. Yes most ford 9" installations are pinion below center. My initial comment of the pinion being above center, instead of stating off of center, has caused many to comment.
@HOWEES I enjoy your channel a lot. I lived in Palmer 2001 to 2014 so I feel right at home in your cluttered shop . . . There's a lot more government here to help us in the 48, I miss the freedom.
Great video. I have a question. How do you determine the size and type of small internal threads where you can’t get a thread gage into the threaded hole? Thank you. Bob
I just now saw your question, Reprorubber is the common product made for that. It is expensive, but works well. Oil the surface & use standard silicone, if it doesn't need the better speed or accuracy.
Im glad someone talked Howee into doing these videos, im not a licensed machinist but even i can understand that this man is a wealth of knowledge.
Good explanation. Never heard anyone break it down like that before
My thoughts exactly!
Sir you know the art to teach. You put University lessons into understandable concepts that anybody with comon sense is able to follow and apply.
Seems you too read many manuals on machines and vehicles dated from WW2 and the fifties. (many were itched in brass and riveted right onto the machine at each operating point)
A bright smile and big thumbs up.
manuals from the eightees on became boaring since they had to comply with lawyer rules. (bla, bla, bla, but no contence)
Absolutely the explanation needed at the beginning of any ring and pinion setup instruction... a lot of voodoo went out the window!
As a young man I work for a Falk warranty and re-man shop in Phoenix where some of the reduction boxes had to be split and come on two or even three oversized semi loads. This is where I learned gear set-up as well as machining. I miss that job, always interesting stuff to learn there.
Great video, explains it well. But I do believe most common Ford 9" are low pinion so they dropped the interface down. I have heard of high pinion Ford 9" but I don't remember ever seeing one . . . But I see more Eaton, Rockwell size stuff.
It was a Flender gearbox that had the gear set in it that caused me to learn more, I have also worked on Hanson, Dodge, Who-knows, and maybe a Falk, but not a lot of Falk. Yes most ford 9" installations are pinion below center. My initial comment of the pinion being above center, instead of stating off of center, has caused many to comment.
@HOWEES I enjoy your channel a lot. I lived in Palmer 2001 to 2014 so I feel right at home in your cluttered shop . . . There's a lot more government here to help us in the 48, I miss the freedom.
Great explanation 😎
Next do double encapsulating worm gearing!
Great video.
I have a question. How do you determine the size and type of small internal threads where you can’t get a thread gage into the threaded hole?
Thank you.
Bob
Maybe some tipe of wax/silicone to make inprint of threads, then after you pull/unscrew it out, measure it
@Robert Swaine Does anyone make something for this?
I just now saw your question, Reprorubber is the common product made for that. It is expensive, but works well. Oil the surface & use standard silicone, if it doesn't need the better speed or accuracy.
All in the name of smokey burn-outs
Can you sent hypoid gear wheel calculation and formulas
Wow, that makes total sense!
Great info, thanks
The 9" is very wipey heaty.