Thanks for showing your thinking and production behind the product - super helpful for DIYers and people with fancy tools, and pushing the whole industry forward. Bravo.
Thanks...seems to be working great for lots of people. I need to do a new video...I've refined my techniques since the first video. To me...the best part is that I can make any radius...or compound radius combination. So much easier.
You , sir , are an absolute GENIUS !! That idea of attaching the straight line sander to those awesome radius blocks is a phenomenal idea !! I absolutely astounded at how your mind works !! Thank you so much for this !!
I've been toying with the same idea of using a machine combined with a block to radius faster. I didn't know this particular sander existed! Def going to be trying it out! Now if I could just get a cnc like yours... Great vid! Great ideas!
You know I love this! Thanks for the mention and obviously thanks for designing these radius blocks. I can't wait to try one of them. Look for my Order!
This idea works wonders... If you have the proper sized compressor and take the time to set up guide rails to ensure the inline sander travels in a straight line. Given these pre-requisites you will save a TON of time sanding! I used Steve's Conical Sanding Block (12-16") and 3M Stik-It sandpaper to achieve what appears to be a PERFECT conical radius for my fretboards. I have now built 3 necks with this method using an Eastwood (lower CFM) inline sander ~$110 and a 10 Gallon California Air Tools Compressor 10020. This was a huge step up from using a Rigid pancake compressor, which worked fine, but is VERY LOUD and significantly limits the length of sanding sessions while waiting for the compressor to catch up. While the inline sander is noisy, the C.A.T. compressor is ~ 60db ultra-quiet and makes for a great combination. I am a huge fan of MGW and will continue to purchase Steve's templates and jigs.
I've been considering the inline sander on a block for a couple years now. Now I've seen that it actually works! This is awesome! I also recently did my first compound radius by hand and your system will take hours off of that process. I will be reaching out to you to order very soon! Thank you!
Todd!! I was just gonna text You! Thanks for recommending me to Steve’s Great content and products. Steve….Excellence Achieved! Very impressive. I’m going to REALLY think about how I want to make necks now. Your system makes a lot of repeatable sense.
compound is easily and precisely achieved by attaching the fretboard on two swing arms (metal or wooden profiles), each having the length of the desired radius (compensate for the thickness of the fretboard… not crucial though to do it ) above a sanding belt, takes less than 2~3 minutes to get a perfect compound radios fretboard - swivel direction is perpendicular to the direction of the sanding belt movement
It's a nice idea in theory, and they're super cool, but only really suitable and viable for real production. This product is more for the DIYer, hobbyist, maybe semi pro if you attach that inline sander.
When I do a compound radius fretboard, I use two separate marking templates - one for the nut end and one for the body end. I scribe the radii on each end of the fretboard, square to the centerline and the base of the fretboard, tracing around each template (white marker on dark woods, pencil on maple). I then use a straight edge and scribe lines to connect the end points of the radii to one another along the length of the fretboard on both sides of the neck. I then use a lightweight angle grinder with a 60 grit flapper wheel to remove material to just shy of the lines along the length of the fretboard and following the radii as marked, leaving the central .5" or so of the fretboard length untouched. Roughing out aboard this way takes about 5 minutes, but it requires a very light touch. I follow with a 1" wide aluminum beam and use various grits, up 320, until the lines are met and the radii "connect", so to speak.
You need to make a neck contour jig kit. I've never been impressed with wood sanding blocks because the wood can warp, especially the longer it is. And a warped sanding block throws off the tolerance which is critical.
Now that is freaking cool! It would be cool to put some handles on the beams that could screw into the holes that are already there for the sanding machine. I've sanded way to many fingerboards using the other companies aluminum sanding beams and I've always wondered why they can't put some freaking handles on top of the beams, kind of like motorcycle style grips. It would help with hand fatigue specially when sanding ebony or rock maple boards and it would really help with accuracy as well. I'll be ordering some of these from you, specially the compound radii, great job!
$80 for a cove cut piece of wood seems a bit steep. Very good video and explanation on things. Your videos are always long but worth it as there are always a few things picked up
They're worth every penny, I have 4 of them and now that he's changed these to vertical grain maple and x-rays every piece assures stability over time! Everything from here is awesome
The contour jig is not compatible with the fretboard radius. Something similar could be made...but I'm not sure if I would invest the time. I like these current simple solutions. Thanks for your great comment. I can ship you template in a discreet unmarked box. ;-)
Hi 👋 So the compound radius beam is for fretboards ? What about frets ? How do I do a fret level on on a compound radius ? Can I use this beam to do both fretboard and frets ? Or is there a better method ? Greetings from Scotland 🏴
Such a great idea. It’s time for me to use technology to create a 10-16 compound fretboard on an acoustic with a 1 inch stroke and the air powered sander PLEASE SEND ME ONE ASAP!! Thanks
Good luck with the new business ideas! I would love to see you succeed. Have you thought about promoting your new products through youtube, by sending them to tech/luthiers such as Philip McKnight, Collin the Scottish guy, scar my guitar, dave world of fun etc..
I know that Philip McKnight recently had a discussion about my templates. Not sure if my products would ever make it to these high profile RUclipsrs. They are hard to get in touch with. However...if you want to set something up...I'll ship some stuff. ;-)
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for showing your thinking and production behind the product - super helpful for DIYers and people with fancy tools, and pushing the whole industry forward. Bravo.
Brilliant. Good call on using maple.
Thanks...seems to be working great for lots of people. I need to do a new video...I've refined my techniques since the first video. To me...the best part is that I can make any radius...or compound radius combination. So much easier.
You , sir , are an absolute GENIUS !! That idea of attaching the straight line sander to those awesome radius blocks is a phenomenal idea !! I absolutely astounded at how your mind works !! Thank you so much for this !!
Be careful. My wife already gets concerned about my head fitting through the front door. ;-) I appreciate you Mike.
I've been toying with the same idea of using a machine combined with a block to radius faster. I didn't know this particular sander existed! Def going to be trying it out! Now if I could just get a cnc like yours... Great vid! Great ideas!
You know what they say..."laziness is the father of innovation"...or something like that. I want to work smart...not hard.
You know I love this! Thanks for the mention and obviously thanks for designing these radius blocks. I can't wait to try one of them. Look for my Order!
Few days away...enjoy!
great work ....finishing them off by hand looks like a lot of extra work!
Can be a lot of work. The compound block works as advertised. It is easier that using multiple blocks...even when doing by hand.
Level AND radius .... BOOM WOW!
This idea works wonders... If you have the proper sized compressor and take the time to set up guide rails to ensure the inline sander travels in a straight line. Given these pre-requisites you will save a TON of time sanding! I used Steve's Conical Sanding Block (12-16") and 3M Stik-It sandpaper to achieve what appears to be a PERFECT conical radius for my fretboards. I have now built 3 necks with this method using an Eastwood (lower CFM) inline sander ~$110 and a 10 Gallon California Air Tools Compressor 10020. This was a huge step up from using a Rigid pancake compressor, which worked fine, but is VERY LOUD and significantly limits the length of sanding sessions while waiting for the compressor to catch up. While the inline sander is noisy, the C.A.T. compressor is ~ 60db ultra-quiet and makes for a great combination. I am a huge fan of MGW and will continue to purchase Steve's templates and jigs.
You’re the man Mr Steve! I can’t wait for mine to get here. Great work!
Can't wait for you to tell all your friends! ;-)
I've been considering the inline sander on a block for a couple years now. Now I've seen that it actually works! This is awesome! I also recently did my first compound radius by hand and your system will take hours off of that process. I will be reaching out to you to order very soon! Thank you!
Looking forward to it!
Todd!! I was just gonna text You! Thanks for recommending me to Steve’s Great content and products. Steve….Excellence Achieved! Very impressive. I’m going to REALLY think about how I want to make necks now. Your system makes a lot of repeatable sense.
Thanks Steve...appreciate it.
Man that's an air file doing quarter panels and fender on cars my dad them when he had his body shops . Now I've seen everything. Lol
compound is easily and precisely achieved by attaching the fretboard on two swing arms (metal or wooden profiles), each having the length of the desired radius (compensate for the thickness of the fretboard… not crucial though to do it ) above a sanding belt, takes less than 2~3 minutes to get a perfect compound radios fretboard - swivel direction is perpendicular to the direction of the sanding belt movement
It's a nice idea in theory, and they're super cool, but only really suitable and viable for real production. This product is more for the DIYer, hobbyist, maybe semi pro if you attach that inline sander.
When I do a compound radius fretboard, I use two separate marking templates - one for the nut end and one for the body end. I scribe the radii on each end of the fretboard, square to the centerline and the base of the fretboard, tracing around each template (white marker on dark woods, pencil on maple). I then use a straight edge and scribe lines to connect the end points of the radii to one another along the length of the fretboard on both sides of the neck.
I then use a lightweight angle grinder with a 60 grit flapper wheel to remove material to just shy of the lines along the length of the fretboard and following the radii as marked, leaving the central .5" or so of the fretboard length untouched.
Roughing out aboard this way takes about 5 minutes, but it requires a very light touch.
I follow with a 1" wide aluminum beam and use various grits, up 320, until the lines are met and the radii "connect", so to speak.
You need to make a neck contour jig kit. I've never been impressed with wood sanding blocks because the wood can warp, especially the longer it is. And a warped sanding block throws off the tolerance which is critical.
Now that is freaking cool! It would be cool to put some handles on the beams that could screw into the holes that are already there for the sanding machine. I've sanded way to many fingerboards using the other companies aluminum sanding beams and I've always wondered why they can't put some freaking handles on top of the beams, kind of like motorcycle style grips. It would help with hand fatigue specially when sanding ebony or rock maple boards and it would really help with accuracy as well. I'll be ordering some of these from you, specially the compound radii, great job!
Do you think it is possible to stick only the fretboard alone to the device with double tape? You already understand the rest...
A flat block for thickness sanding might be an option by using pencil marks and caliper checks I'd think.
$80 for a cove cut piece of wood seems a bit steep. Very good video and explanation on things. Your videos are always long but worth it as there are always a few things picked up
They're worth every penny, I have 4 of them and now that he's changed these to vertical grain maple and x-rays every piece assures stability over time! Everything from here is awesome
Thanks for sharing looks like a real timesaver, the heavy vibrations is going to be hard on your hands though so you should not do it to often.
I figured out that I was doing it wrong. Lighter pressure reduces the vibration to my arms. But still...I wouldn't want anyone to do it all day long.
You're killing me smalls!!!... Talk about a one stop shop for your sanding block..
The contour jig is not compatible with the fretboard radius. Something similar could be made...but I'm not sure if I would invest the time. I like these current simple solutions. Thanks for your great comment. I can ship you template in a discreet unmarked box. ;-)
@@maximumguitarworks I might have to come stay at your place.. hope you have an extra room ...lol
Holy sh#t !!! For people that understand what this is ... It is revolutionary in the Luther industry ! " I'LL TAKE TWO"
Could you do a tutorial on how to build a les Paul style guitar
Someday...probably not this year though.
I’ll take it for sure but I have a question (maybe stupid) cause I just start.
With what radius I will set up my bridge if my neck is 10-16 radius??
Hi 👋
So the compound radius beam is for fretboards ?
What about frets ? How do I do a fret level on on a compound radius ? Can I use this beam to do both fretboard and frets ? Or is there a better method ?
Greetings from Scotland 🏴
Same as you would any guitar: a flat aluminium beam with adhesive sandpaper.
A flat beam is best for final touch. However, I use the compound radius block first. Saves time.
I think this might take off. The only problem I see is that the sander is covering up your logo.
Man...I felt like I was forgetting something! ;-)
Tell me the straight line sander can do frets , come on !
Such a great idea. It’s time for me to use technology to create a 10-16 compound fretboard on an acoustic with a 1 inch stroke and the air powered sander
PLEASE SEND ME ONE ASAP!!
Thanks
I can only hope
I will not cut through the logo.
Good to know...I would hate to feel like I had to report you to the logo police.
Good luck with the new business ideas! I would love to see you succeed. Have you thought about promoting your new products through youtube, by sending them to tech/luthiers such as Philip McKnight, Collin the Scottish guy, scar my guitar, dave world of fun etc..
I know that Philip McKnight recently had a discussion about my templates. Not sure if my products would ever make it to these high profile RUclipsrs. They are hard to get in touch with. However...if you want to set something up...I'll ship some stuff. ;-)
@@maximumguitarworks I will try to reach out those people for you Steve