I'm with you on your first thought of not repairing these types of devices, however on the other hand, it is a good trustworthy brand and not cheap Chinese junk, plus the cost of repair vs new warrants a repair and stress test before going back in service. A little critique however, for quick testing I would have either put a fast blow fuse in line or a thin gauge wire in line if you didn't have an isolation transformer as opposed to what appeared thicker wire in line that would blow fast in case of surge, otherwise, all good. Side note, your new Canon is doing a fantastic job! ~Jack, VEG
You're right about the wire/fuse, of course, but here's my list of excuses...…. errr, I mean "reasons": Once I found the blown fuse, I went back to the broken machine and had another "talk" with it and found a wire grounded on the case of a power supply, so I was 99% sure that was the cause and the surge protector was ok. Also, I didn't have a compatible fuse to put on the PCB and was too lazy to hack something together. Ummm, Oh! This wire was closest, see above about my laziness. I got a pack of fuses for them now, and it works great. An isolation transformer is getting higher up on my want list, so hopefully soon I'll have one. I'm loving the Canon, and feel like I'm getting the hang of shooting with it. I also started doing separate audio on a condenser mic, which resulted in a few production hiccups during that learning curve, but the sound quality seems a lot better.
Just a quick question, the EXACT same thing happened to my Isobar Tripp-Lite surge protector...did you end up going with a fast blow fuse or a slow blow fuse?
I googled the part number on the fuse and got an exact replacement. I don't remember if it was slow blow or not, but the surge protector is still working fine.
@@sarojdahal74 in this case it isn't critical, as there should be another fuse or breaker on the circuit already. I would prefer a slow blow to lessen the likelihood of the internal fuse being the one that blows since it's harder to change.
When i seen the Fault Indicator light on, my first thought was, its bad. Thanks for the Video, i was fixing to tare this one down for nothing, even better, i see the quality build and think America is coming back!
What would be the sequence from 1st to last in the outlet order. I need to plug something specifically into the very 1st outlet and then a component into the 2nd outlet in that order?
the fuse will blow if unit absorbs a large surge high current surge or is subjected to high current overload , it reacts faster then a circuit breaker ,, the issue is if the unit likely absorbed a high current surge, the MOVs could have taken damage ,, if so they will not protect against another one, letting the surge get through , so one should not replace the fuse, one would have to replace all the impacted the Mov's before one can do so.. .
Considering that the fault was caused by a loose wire shorting to ground, it's pretty safe to say that the fuse blew due to overcurrent, and that surge was not a factor. The MOVs should be unaffected.
@@bebsrepairbench5074 Tripp Lite said they do not. I am not sure how leveraging a gas dischrage tube is for over voltage though. I am also running a CNC machine I built that I dont want damaged.
@@ronpearson1912 Hmmm I see where you're coming from. I used to run a 3D printer on a cheap surge protector and it ended up breaking the surge protector. After that I just run them unprotected. I'm not sure if a normal CNC machine will have the same risk. I will say that if you have your machine networked with an Ethernet cable it's important to protect that from surges as well. We've had problems with machines in the shop from surges through the Ethernet. This probably didn't answer your question but that's what I know of surge protection.
Could you tell me where you purchased the fuses to replace the " 250v, 15amp" quick tripping fuse that was faulty? You can reach me at stormsrnear@yahoo.com with the fuse specs and the place of purchase of them. Please, mine has the same problem, cause. By a similar issue and this would help in Mt endeavor to repair a simple fix
@@bebsrepairbench5074 Hey, I just got those fuses and I ordered the exact model# you listed for me, but these are smaller and instead of being fast blowing are also slow blowing. Are you sure this is the right model number for the fuse to replace? I will try to send you pictures if I can to show you. Well, I can't send you a pic on RUclips, but my email is stormsrnear@yahoo.com send me a reply and I'll send you some pics of the differences...
Ahh, you did not mention 6mm x 30mm in size, they sent me 3/16th inch...so is that the issue then? Other than the fact that they are slow blowing and not fast blowing?
I went with an electronics parts supplier seeing on items like this I don't trust amazon sellers to not sell and item that's just a wire that goes through a shell. They are slow-blow fuse not fast-blow. Here's the link to the specific fuse. www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/eaton-electronics-division/BK-MDA-V-15-R/1024204
I'm with you on your first thought of not repairing these types of devices, however on the other hand, it is a good trustworthy brand and not cheap Chinese junk, plus the cost of repair vs new warrants a repair and stress test before going back in service. A little critique however, for quick testing I would have either put a fast blow fuse in line or a thin gauge wire in line if you didn't have an isolation transformer as opposed to what appeared thicker wire in line that would blow fast in case of surge, otherwise, all good. Side note, your new Canon is doing a fantastic job! ~Jack, VEG
You're right about the wire/fuse, of course, but here's my list of excuses...…. errr, I mean "reasons":
Once I found the blown fuse, I went back to the broken machine and had another "talk" with it and found a wire grounded on the case of a power supply, so I was 99% sure that was the cause and the surge protector was ok. Also, I didn't have a compatible fuse to put on the PCB and was too lazy to hack something together. Ummm, Oh! This wire was closest, see above about my laziness.
I got a pack of fuses for them now, and it works great. An isolation transformer is getting higher up on my want list, so hopefully soon I'll have one.
I'm loving the Canon, and feel like I'm getting the hang of shooting with it. I also started doing separate audio on a condenser mic, which resulted in a few production hiccups during that learning curve, but the sound quality seems a lot better.
Very helpful presentation ❤❤❤❤
Just a quick question, the EXACT same thing happened to my Isobar Tripp-Lite surge protector...did you end up going with a fast blow fuse or a slow blow fuse?
I googled the part number on the fuse and got an exact replacement. I don't remember if it was slow blow or not, but the surge protector is still working fine.
Thanks for the vid. Currently in the process of putting back together a isobar8ultra. Btw it's a slow blow fuse
I figured it was. Glad you like the video!
What is the part number for that fuse if you endded up fixing it? Perhaps how many amps for that fuse? Not a slow blow for sure.
T15A250V Axial Ceramic Fuse, 6mm x 30mm.
@@bebsrepairbench5074 Did you use fast blow or slow blow? I ordered T15A250V but it looks like a slow blow.
@@sarojdahal74 I believe it's a slow blow.
@@bebsrepairbench5074 which one is better, you think? slow blow or fast blow!
@@sarojdahal74 in this case it isn't critical, as there should be another fuse or breaker on the circuit already. I would prefer a slow blow to lessen the likelihood of the internal fuse being the one that blows since it's harder to change.
I've taken apart surge protectors. That one I'd be willing to repair.
That was my same thought. I ended up purchasing a pack of fuses for a few dollars and putting the unit back in service.
When i seen the Fault Indicator light on, my first thought was, its bad.
Thanks for the Video, i was fixing to tare this one down for nothing, even better, i see the quality build and think America is coming back!
Thanks for the awesome comment!
Hi.. which one would you recomend (surge protector) for my pedalboard fx when on stage?
Anything from Tripp Lite is going to be good.
What would be the sequence from 1st to last in the outlet order. I need to plug something specifically into the very 1st outlet and then a component into the 2nd outlet in that order?
I'm not sure, I didn't notice when the surge protector was apart. I'm curious about your project, can you go into more detail?
instablaster...
the fuse will blow if unit absorbs a large surge high current surge or is subjected to high current overload , it reacts faster then a circuit breaker ,, the issue is if the unit likely absorbed a high current surge, the MOVs could have taken damage ,, if so they will not protect against another one, letting the surge get through , so one should not replace the fuse, one would have to replace all the impacted the Mov's before one can do so.. .
Considering that the fault was caused by a loose wire shorting to ground, it's pretty safe to say that the fuse blew due to overcurrent, and that surge was not a factor. The MOVs should be unaffected.
MOV's? What is this referring to? Thanks!
Never mind - Metal Oxide Varistors...figured it out
@@chrisguitar Metal Oxide Varistor
Does this surge protector have a gas discharge tube along with an MOV? I would think the GDT would reduce the damage to the MOV from a surge event?
I'm not sure, it's been awhile since I had it apart, I may crack it open next week and I'll let you know!
@@bebsrepairbench5074 Tripp Lite said they do not. I am not sure how leveraging a gas dischrage tube is for over voltage though. I am also running a CNC machine I built that I dont want damaged.
@@ronpearson1912 Hmmm I see where you're coming from. I used to run a 3D printer on a cheap surge protector and it ended up breaking the surge protector. After that I just run them unprotected. I'm not sure if a normal CNC machine will have the same risk. I will say that if you have your machine networked with an Ethernet cable it's important to protect that from surges as well. We've had problems with machines in the shop from surges through the Ethernet. This probably didn't answer your question but that's what I know of surge protection.
@@bebsrepairbench5074 So the computer controls and stepper motors will be on the surge protector and the spindle will be on a separate plug.
@@ronpearson1912 Oh ok. Great idea keeping them separate. I may try to do that with my printers!
Could you tell me where you purchased the fuses to replace the " 250v, 15amp" quick tripping fuse that was faulty? You can reach me at stormsrnear@yahoo.com with the fuse specs and the place of purchase of them. Please, mine has the same problem, cause. By a similar issue and this would help in Mt endeavor to repair a simple fix
I bought a 5 pack from Amazon, they're $8.89US with free shipping. Search for "Axial Ceramic Fuse T15A250V" and it was the second result for me.
@@bebsrepairbench5074 Hey, I just got those fuses and I ordered the exact model# you listed for me, but these are smaller and instead of being fast blowing are also slow blowing. Are you sure this is the right model number for the fuse to replace? I will try to send you pictures if I can to show you.
Well, I can't send you a pic on RUclips, but my email is stormsrnear@yahoo.com send me a reply and I'll send you some pics of the differences...
Ahh, you did not mention 6mm x 30mm in size, they sent me 3/16th inch...so is that the issue then? Other than the fact that they are slow blowing and not fast blowing?
@@user-kg9pe5uo7g yes, that's what I used and they worked fine.
I went with an electronics parts supplier seeing on items like this I don't trust amazon sellers to not sell and item that's just a wire that goes through a shell. They are slow-blow fuse not fast-blow. Here's the link to the specific fuse. www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/eaton-electronics-division/BK-MDA-V-15-R/1024204