NEW! My own Subscription/Donation service at affordable rates! britrest.com/subscriptions/ Special tools, stickers and old stock parts! www.britrest.com/shop www.paypal.me/britrest2018
Thanks for the great videos ! My manual states 17Nm for pressure relief valve with a smear of Loctite 577. Keep it up! I am also rebuilding a 300TDI at the moment, so its really nice to see how you are handling stuff.
Watching video's like this makes me wish I had a 300tdi vehicle again. Honestly, I've come around to thinking that the TD5 is a better engine (once you sort out it's weaknesses) than the 300tdi but the 300tdi is undeniably very well designed and much easier to understand and work on.
Lovely job Mike. If your that deep in. Change the oil pump! The engine will last so much longer with good oil pressure. And before anyone says, I know, pumps create flow, restrictions cause pressure.
Brilliant! More sage tips from the master land rover guru! Without these video's I would be paying out 100s £ for someone else to fix and repair many simple jobs on my Land Rover. As always not all heroes wear a cape or have their undies on the out side of there pants.🖒🖒😂😂
Good advice on the oil pressure gauge line Mike, I fitted a gauge to my Disco and the olive on the nylon line "nipped" the line near right through, amazing how quickly you can empty a Tdi engine sump through such a small line, luckily we have a combination "Murphy" switch on coolant level and oil pressure.
Hi Mike, thanks again for a nice video, regarding the pressure gauge I opt for the electric one just place a sender instead/in addition to the pressure sensor switch, place the gauge in the car and connect them with a wire, VDO have good products for this. cheers
G'Day Mike. Nice straight forward video as always. Just thought I'd let you know, the USB Stick turned up this Monday. Big Thanks for that matey. As to gauges, wherever possible and practical always go electrical/electronic. All bar the boost gauge type (you see what I did there lol ) respond faster and more reliably as electric types than mechanical types (I have found, in my opinion) and are easier to install. In fact I usually run a multi core cable (like 7 core trailer cable) from the engine bay into the cab behind the instrument cluster just so I can at any-time install what ever gauges I fancy at a later date and I only had to do one run for connection purpose for all and any future gauge (if I think I might need more, I'll go a bigger multi core cable).
I sand blast the exterior and wet bead blast to polish - I avoid any oil ways, then stick in the ultrasonic to make sure there is no debris in the parts
Ahh amazing! so no paint involved at at all? i saw in another one of your videos you painted the block of this 300tdi - whats was your process for that in terms of prep and paint? @@BritannicaRestorations
I had to many bad experience with these t adapters for extra sensors. Always leaking, turning itself out, ... The oil filter housing actually has a place for an extra sensors, you just have to drill and tap it.
whenever l start my 300tdi engine, the oil light turns off, but when the engine gets warm the oil light starts showing up and disappears upon raving. What could be the problem?
Hi mike thanks for all the great help and content you give us. i had a question about CVs and shafts. whats your thoughts on the cheap stuff that you get from britpart? as i cant afford to get the Ashcroft stuff? or should i save some more for them? thanks a million for all the help with your videos as it makes owning a landy that little bit easier!
@@timhaynes6628 HELLO AGAIN TIM, SORRY, IF YOU THINK I'M SHOUTING, WITH USING CAPS. BUT I'M NOT. I'M NOW A PENSIONER, WITH POOR EYESIGHT. HAVE A GOOD DAY. RUSS UK.
NEW! My own Subscription/Donation service at affordable rates!
britrest.com/subscriptions/
Special tools, stickers and old stock parts!
www.britrest.com/shop
www.paypal.me/britrest2018
Really appreciating this build series Mike. I have my other old 300Tdi to rebuild. 498k on the clock lol.
It's a pleasure to watch your videos - learning an awful lot from you :)
Happy to hear that!
Thanks for the great videos ! My manual states 17Nm for pressure relief valve with a smear of Loctite 577. Keep it up! I am also rebuilding a 300TDI at the moment, so its really nice to see how you are handling stuff.
hello mike. great video. i hope the owner will do regular oil changes now you have done all that hard work !
I hope so too
Watching video's like this makes me wish I had a 300tdi vehicle again.
Honestly, I've come around to thinking that the TD5 is a better engine (once you sort out it's weaknesses) than the 300tdi but the 300tdi is undeniably very well designed and much easier to understand and work on.
Couldn't agree more!
Td5 has a problem with porous blocks, shows up in bores can be mistaken for head gasket, also it just appeared with no evolution like the 300tdi
Td5 has a problem with porous blocks, shows up in bores can be mistaken for head gasket, also it just appeared with no evolution like the 300tdi
Lovely job Mike.
If your that deep in. Change the oil pump! The engine will last so much longer with good oil pressure.
And before anyone says, I know, pumps create flow, restrictions cause pressure.
I just want to say, pumps create flow, restrictions create pressure!
@@greebo7857 Yeeaaa! Thank you Greebo! Brilliant
Brilliant! More sage tips from the master land rover guru!
Without these video's I would be paying out 100s £ for someone else to fix and repair many simple jobs on my Land Rover.
As always not all heroes wear a cape or have their undies on the out side of there pants.🖒🖒😂😂
Wow, thanks!
Good advice on the oil pressure gauge line Mike, I fitted a gauge to my Disco and the olive on the nylon line "nipped" the line near right through, amazing how quickly you can empty a Tdi engine sump through such a small line, luckily we have a combination "Murphy" switch on coolant level and oil pressure.
Great idea
Hi Mike,
thanks again for a nice video, regarding the pressure gauge I opt for the electric one just place a sender instead/in addition to the pressure sensor switch, place the gauge in the car and connect them with a wire, VDO have good products for this.
cheers
Top video as always. You should of been on the engineering team for Ineos from the start!
G'Day Mike.
Nice straight forward video as always. Just thought I'd let you know, the USB Stick turned up this Monday. Big Thanks for that matey.
As to gauges, wherever possible and practical always go electrical/electronic. All bar the boost gauge type (you see what I did there lol ) respond faster and more reliably as electric types than mechanical types (I have found, in my opinion) and are easier to install. In fact I usually run a multi core cable (like 7 core trailer cable) from the engine bay into the cab behind the instrument cluster just so I can at any-time install what ever gauges I fancy at a later date and I only had to do one run for connection purpose for all and any future gauge (if I think I might need more, I'll go a bigger multi core cable).
Magnificent squadron leader.. i like it when its jurrrst right ..i call it the goldilocks redemption effect .. jolly good carryon pip pips 😁
Glad you like it!
Shockin' wet & wintery in Dublin too #stormfrancis
Very helpful! how did you go about cleaning up and spraying that cover without damaging the oil pump channels?
I sand blast the exterior and wet bead blast to polish - I avoid any oil ways, then stick in the ultrasonic to make sure there is no debris in the parts
Ahh amazing! so no paint involved at at all? i saw in another one of your videos you painted the block of this 300tdi - whats was your process for that in terms of prep and paint? @@BritannicaRestorations
I only paint steel/cast iron parts after cleaning, or they rust too bad
I had to many bad experience with these t adapters for extra sensors. Always leaking, turning itself out, ...
The oil filter housing actually has a place for an extra sensors, you just have to drill and tap it.
whenever l start my 300tdi engine, the oil light turns off, but when the engine gets warm the oil light starts showing up and disappears upon raving. What could be the problem?
I would start by replacing the switch - they can fail when they are old and do not buy cheap aftermarket switches - they are a false economy
Hey, another great video.But, tell me, should I use a paper gasket or some kind od sealant between the engine and oil filter housing?
Hi mike thanks for all the great help and content you give us.
i had a question about CVs and shafts. whats your thoughts on the cheap stuff that you get from britpart? as i cant afford to get the Ashcroft stuff? or should i save some more for them? thanks a million for all the help with your videos as it makes owning a landy that little bit easier!
Actually they were quite good from Britpart
👍👍
oil pressure gauge .. use electric , i can't think of one reason to use a mechanical one in a car ( but on a test-bed mechanical is much easier )
You don’t like oil leaking into the pedals and behind the dash???
It's pissing down here as well.
if it had hair on it ud get it in lol
WHAT'S THE ANNOYING DRIPPING OR TAPPING NOISE MIKE? IT'S DOING MY HEAD IN! BUT GOOD VIDEO, AS ALWAYS.
Rain!!
@@timhaynes6628 HI TIM, THOUGHT IT MIGHT BE, THANKS.
@@russ3069 No problem
@@timhaynes6628 HELLO AGAIN TIM, SORRY, IF YOU THINK I'M SHOUTING, WITH USING CAPS. BUT I'M NOT. I'M NOW A PENSIONER, WITH POOR EYESIGHT. HAVE A GOOD DAY. RUSS UK.
@@timhaynes6628 I have exactly the same noise happening here...