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The ever expanding tutorial masterclass on landie maintenance/repair/rebuilding moves on at an ever expanding rate! We many owe you so much for imparting your knowledge and experience on all things land rover! Thank you Mike this series is going from strength to strength.
I did this job today. I was quite surprised that the manual stated to replace the cap bolts and rod nuts/studs. Having already waited 10 days for parts I was not going to wait another 10! Reused the old ones, lets hope it holds!
Great video Mike, after watching it I felt like going out to the garage and taking my 200Tdi out and giving it a rebuild. A very contagious video for me. Best wishes from Yorkshire Rob.
I use a drill motor and an oil pump shaft adapter to pre-oil the engine after a rebuild or after sitting for a long long time (with fresh oil) That way, oil gets forced into all the passages and journals. I just run it until I see oil at the rockers. Cheers, Mike! Thanks for having us along!
Totally agree with you about the idiots starting perfectly good engines that have survived for thirty years in the wood. "Yes, well done lads, you have got it started and now it will probable never run again.!!"
Mike , you really need a mechanics trolley / service cart .. or something else you can wheel about & lay the tools / parts you're using on .. and yeah old starts are just someone showing off ( and killing an engine )
I Don't comment much on RUclips bu you can't believe how relevant this video is to my rebuilding of my engine (not a landy) but non the less it is helping me with the process and I salute you mate for putting this video series together well done
'Don't get sticky balls...it's the last thing you want'🤣🤣🤣Bahahaha...Pissing myself laughing at that one Mike..I had to go back to the start and hear that again🤭....thanks for making my evening👍🇦🇺
I remember watching that model t start up I watch them but they take some believing those old engines were a problem if stood for weeks, they shot a battery on after 25 years and fire them up
G'Day Mike You know matey we may have to start putting all these video's onto a USB stick just like the Tech manuals are, what with Google getting more draconian laws imposed on it here. Should sort out all the good ones with no repeats for each type of Landy set up from top to bottom and front to back (200, 300, RR, Disco, ect ). As per norm though, thanks again for taking the time to make these video's. Outstanding as always.
@@BritannicaRestorations I’ve spent the last couple of evenings searching your videos for this one to see the TSeals bit. Unfortunately I thought it was a few years back so skimming earlier videos.
When I rebuild engines I have been using GRAPHOGEN Engine assemble paste and have found it really good. Graphogen Assembly Compound is a colloidal graphite paste in oil and gives protection when running-in all types of precision built machinery. Not cheap but a tube last ages.
"in wish you were all here" well I think I speak for everyone when I say that that is a bloody good idea! Best party ever I think.. minimum rights of access: come in a landrover, bring Jamesons..:)
I love watching you work Mike. It's great to see you enjoying a job. The tactile feedback from turning that crank must be almost orgasmic... Fantastic video again. A question.... Is there any reason you don't oil both faces of the bearing? I know the outer face isn't in contact with moving parts but would a light smear of lucas gloop not go amiss on these outer faces? Or would it prevent the bearing from seating properly? Keep up the great work Mike... Loving it all.
Have you ever ridden motorbikes? Lot of bikes have a sight-glass on the side of the crankcase instead of a dipstick. That makes you far more aware of what's going on inside your engine. You'll often see droplets of condensation in the sight-glass AND you'll see the oil go cloudy, and then clear, as the engine warms up and any condensation in the oil dissipates. Can make you a bit paranoid if you let it! As a bare-minimum, if I haven't used a vehicle for a while I always disconnect the ignition and turn the engine over until I see oil pressure before starting it. Not quite as easy with a diesel but these days I always have a hidden switch for the stop-solenoid so I can flip that off and turn the engine over before starting it. Always gives me the heeby jeebies when I see people starting up "barn finds". Sure, it might run NOW but will it still be running in 6 months?
Great to watch , but never have I ever fitted a crank with out check bearing loading , so that you don’t risk running a bearing later on . and also checking bearing clearance against the crankshaft journals . look forward to next one . used to recondition the old blocks with the exhaust valve in the block and the big domed pistons .
@@BritannicaRestorations yes, I don't know if you checked the mains for correct size measurements as I've line bored many mains. Fit bearings to block and caps tighten down one end and slowly tighten down other end when you feel it nip up measure the gap with feeler gauge and check it is correct for the diameter of the journal. I hope you have also checked the conrods for alignment and if any twist.. Love your work
@@fastinradfordablealways on any engine build up conrods we used to check alignment. Also after fitting new small end bushes or resizing bigends due out of size you will find the conrods misaligned and with twist. You can manually align them.
Regarding the general topic of turning over an ancient engine which hasn't run in years. I'm with you all the way on dropping the sump and clearing out the crud. But what do you think about this for an idea? Once you've dropped the dump and cleaned out the residue, put it back on and then ram the engine full of diesel and turn it manually. That's got to give it a good clean. You could do that over a couple of weeks and just keep turning it manually. Leave it to settle and then drop the diesel out and get the sump off again. I'll put money on it that there would be another sump full of crud. Diesel gets where wather can't... (water.... Lol) Just an idea... Has anyone ever tried it? Could you imagine the state of the cooling systems on one of these engines? I think there would be just as much trouble on the cooling side...
Hey Mike, I’ve just commented on another video of yours because I couldn’t find this one but I’ve just rewatched it and it’s great! My question is- am I able to do your t seal fix with the engine in the car? Ive got it all apart now with sump off and transmission is Comming out tomorrow, I’ve taken the bolts out of the rear bearing cap but the cap doesn’t want to come out. Any tips?
Hello Mike! love the series and all the work you are doing to entertain and educate us, i have a question tough, could this method of using silicone instead of the seals be used on a series engine as well? i dont see why not but just curious if you have any experience with this.
That is a lot of end float! Sounds as if you have an issue with the thrust washers in the engine block - it is unusual for them to wear, and although inspection is required you need to find out why they wore in the first place! Could be oil starvation or prolonged pressing of the clutch, or I have seen these heavy-duty clutches do this due to the higher clamping pressure, requiring more pressure applied to the pedal
@@BritannicaRestorations had the oil pan out to day and a big surprise the thrust washers were taking a oil bath there , i made a smiley face from them , ill need to order new ones oversize i thing , i hope i can install them with out the crank out ,ill ask the fairy god mother to help
Do you have any experience with the discovery 2 3 amigos? I had a faulty new wheel bearing go on me (new hub, looks like the seals were bad) and that seems to have triggered the amigos. I hear a faint beeping from my ABS unit as well. I've since replaced the hub and sensor again but it looks like I may need to get the abs amigo to clear the code or take it to a dealership, and that beeping worries me. Code p1590 from my ultragauge for my wheel speed sensor, which again leads me to think the abs code just needs to be cleared. Does this sound right? Do you have a video to anything on this issue? Sorry to bother you mate youre just by far the most useful guy on RUclips when it comes to this sort of thing and I cant seem to search your videos on mobile to see if you've already covered this.
cheap bearings are not so cheap when they shit the tin early and you have to redo all the work again early. BTW did you find the perentie 6X6 manuals interesting?
On the oil squirt jets, should there be copper washers on the bolts? I know it had some on my 200tdi and it looks very similar or did they not hve them on the 300?
@@BritannicaRestorations I pulled my pan/sump for a leak and ended up finding the nozzle part of my cooler nozzle in the bottom, pulled the main part of the cooler and no sealing washer. Pulled the next one down to have a look and it had a copper sealing washer. Checked the military parts book (110 Wolf) and no washer, looked at the civvy repair manual and it mentions a sealing washer. Oh the joys of having a British vehicle in Northern Alberta.
Can the rearmost cap and T seals/sealer be replaced along the the rear main seal with engine in the vehicle as long as flywheel housing is removed. While doing a clutch for example?
Hi, first of all thanks for your videos. I have a doubt about main bearing screws, iI can ser there are 8 flat head screws and only 2 with holes on it,which are in the number 4 main bearing. I need to know the two references for those two types of screws in order to replace it, could you please help me with that? Thanks for all.
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks for your reply, but no, in this case I mean main bearing screws from the crankshaft. There are 10 screws but 2 of them are different from the others because have a “hole” on it, and I cant find part references for 8x flat head screws and 2x “hole” head screws in order to replace it. Thanks for your time.
Enjoyed that Mike, just a question, my 200tdi engine been sat for nearly a year as I've rebuilt the whole landy. What do you recommend for the engine before I start it up ??
Fresh oil and filter then glow plugs out, turn it by hand a few times to make sure it is free, and with the wire off the injector pump, spin it over to get the oil round - plugs in, wire on and fire it up
Thanks for advise Mike, can only take 2 glow plugs out as two have snapped off a while ago but it starts with two as our winters arnt as cold as yours. All the best Mike.
NEW! My own Subscription/Donation service at affordable rates!
britrest.com/subscriptions/
Special tools, stickers and old stock parts!
www.britrest.com/shop
www.paypal.me/britrest2018
Nothing more satisfying than turning over a crank by hand on a block that you’ve just rebuilt.
You took the words right out of my mouth.
Yeah so long as it spins free!!!
If not.
The feeing turns into banging head
Slightly less satisfying when it won’t turn !
The ever expanding tutorial masterclass on landie maintenance/repair/rebuilding moves on at an ever expanding rate!
We many owe you so much for imparting your knowledge and experience on all things land rover!
Thank you Mike this series is going from strength to strength.
Glad to help!
Just about to rebuild a 300, thank you so much for this channel, regards Brendan
Have fun!
It's great to watch a master at work. Keep them coming Mike.
More to come!
Just about to fit me No5 crank cap and knew you’d done away with the TSeals. So that’s todays task, fit all the caps and pistons. Cheers Mike. Mat
I also wish we were all there.
Building a 300 tdi at the moment so brilliant video thanks for all your help and keep doing what your doing
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
No problem 👍
You are poetry in motion, Mike. I was with you on every click of that torque wrench. Thanks for making the start of my day a joy
Very welcome!
Could do with .a nice .work trolley bench.By the side of you mike too put all your bits on. Great job well done 👍🏾
My mate is supposed to be making one for me in his retirement!
Britannica Restorations Ltd my have it by xams
Such a satisfying film. Really enjoyed watching. Thanks Mike. 😊👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it
😳 😳 You wish we were all there, we would fill up your workshop and you wouldn't be able to make any progress. I can't wait for the next episode😊😊
Maybe one day!
I did this job today. I was quite surprised that the manual stated to replace the cap bolts and rod nuts/studs. Having already waited 10 days for parts I was not going to wait another 10! Reused the old ones, lets hope it holds!
Yes it does seem odd as the nuts are not lock nuts
Simply lovely Sir. I'm enjoying this engine rebuild series the proper way.
Glad you enjoy it!
Beautiful crank movement 👍👍👍
It sure is!
oh man so jealous of that engine! She'll be a beauty!!
block is like tractor block. massive and simple
You got that right!
Loving these regular uploads, thanks Mike
Glad you like them!
Thanks Mike. Rebuilding a 2.25 for my II-A right now. Thanks for the rear main seal trick.
The seals never with the sealer, leak and the cork or rubber t seals can get cut on fitting
Great video Mike, after watching it I felt like going out to the garage and taking my 200Tdi out and giving it a rebuild. A very contagious video for me. Best wishes from Yorkshire Rob.
Thanks Rob!
I use a drill motor and an oil pump shaft adapter to pre-oil the engine after a rebuild or after sitting for a long long time (with fresh oil) That way, oil gets forced into all the passages and journals. I just run it until I see oil at the rockers. Cheers, Mike! Thanks for having us along!
Good idea!
Totally agree with you about the idiots starting perfectly good engines that have survived for thirty years in the wood.
"Yes, well done lads, you have got it started and now it will probable never run again.!!"
Mike , you really need a mechanics trolley / service cart .. or something else you can wheel about & lay the tools / parts you're using on .. and yeah old starts are just someone showing off ( and killing an engine )
I Don't comment much on RUclips bu you can't believe how relevant this video is to my rebuilding of my engine (not a landy) but non the less it is helping me with the process and I salute you mate for putting this video series together well done
Thanks!
Mike
'Don't get sticky balls...it's the last thing you want'🤣🤣🤣Bahahaha...Pissing myself laughing at that one Mike..I had to go back to the start and hear that again🤭....thanks for making my evening👍🇦🇺
Glad you enjoyed it
@@BritannicaRestorations Yep, cheers Mike, always spot on and entertainment plus👍🇦🇺
I was literally scratching my nut sack at that point!
Wurth make a sealant in a pressure pack. It is makes short work of the rear main cap.
I remember watching that model t start up I watch them but they take some believing those old engines were a problem if stood for weeks, they shot a battery on after 25 years and fire them up
The need turning by hand to make sure the pistons have not stuck
G'Day Mike
You know matey we may have to start putting all these video's onto a USB stick just like the Tech manuals are, what with Google getting more draconian laws imposed on it here. Should sort out all the good ones with no repeats for each type of Landy set up from top to bottom and front to back (200, 300, RR, Disco, ect ).
As per norm though, thanks again for taking the time to make these video's. Outstanding as always.
I have backups of all the videos published - when it comes to a quiet time I will catalogue them in relevance and do them on a memory stick
@@BritannicaRestorations I’ve spent the last couple of evenings searching your videos for this one to see the TSeals bit. Unfortunately I thought it was a few years back so skimming earlier videos.
When I rebuild engines I have been using GRAPHOGEN Engine assemble paste and have found it really good. Graphogen Assembly Compound is a colloidal graphite paste in oil and gives protection when running-in all types of precision built machinery. Not cheap but a tube last ages.
I'm a little early to this one Mike normally come for the video and stay for the comments i'll have to swing by latter
"in wish you were all here" well I think I speak for everyone when I say that that is a bloody good idea! Best party ever I think.. minimum rights of access: come in a landrover, bring Jamesons..:)
I love watching you work Mike.
It's great to see you enjoying a job. The tactile feedback from turning that crank must be almost orgasmic...
Fantastic video again.
A question....
Is there any reason you don't oil both faces of the bearing? I know the outer face isn't in contact with moving parts but would a light smear of lucas gloop not go amiss on these outer faces? Or would it prevent the bearing from seating properly?
Keep up the great work Mike... Loving it all.
If we were all there you'd need a bigger shop, Mike.
Have you ever ridden motorbikes?
Lot of bikes have a sight-glass on the side of the crankcase instead of a dipstick.
That makes you far more aware of what's going on inside your engine.
You'll often see droplets of condensation in the sight-glass AND you'll see the oil go cloudy, and then clear, as the engine warms up and any condensation in the oil dissipates.
Can make you a bit paranoid if you let it!
As a bare-minimum, if I haven't used a vehicle for a while I always disconnect the ignition and turn the engine over until I see oil pressure before starting it.
Not quite as easy with a diesel but these days I always have a hidden switch for the stop-solenoid so I can flip that off and turn the engine over before starting it.
Always gives me the heeby jeebies when I see people starting up "barn finds".
Sure, it might run NOW but will it still be running in 6 months?
👍👍
Great to watch , but never have I ever fitted a crank with out check bearing loading , so that you don’t risk running a bearing later on . and also checking bearing clearance against the crankshaft journals . look forward to next one . used to recondition the old blocks with the exhaust valve in the block and the big domed pistons .
Thanks for the info - this was a brand new crank
@@BritannicaRestorations yes, I don't know if you checked the mains for correct size measurements as I've line bored many mains. Fit bearings to block and caps tighten down one end and slowly tighten down other end when you feel it nip up measure the gap with feeler gauge and check it is correct for the diameter of the journal. I hope you have also checked the conrods for alignment and if any twist.. Love your work
Jack Daniels
Do your connecting rods twist often?
@@fastinradfordablealways on any engine build up conrods we used to check alignment. Also after fitting new small end bushes or resizing bigends due out of size you will find the conrods misaligned and with twist. You can manually align them.
These videos are great thanks very much. Are you going to film setting up the fuel pump and the timing belt?
Yes, soon
Regarding the general topic of turning over an ancient engine which hasn't run in years.
I'm with you all the way on dropping the sump and clearing out the crud. But what do you think about this for an idea?
Once you've dropped the dump and cleaned out the residue, put it back on and then ram the engine full of diesel and turn it manually. That's got to give it a good clean. You could do that over a couple of weeks and just keep turning it manually. Leave it to settle and then drop the diesel out and get the sump off again. I'll put money on it that there would be another sump full of crud.
Diesel gets where wather can't...
(water.... Lol)
Just an idea... Has anyone ever tried it?
Could you imagine the state of the cooling systems on one of these engines? I think there would be just as much trouble on the cooling side...
Good idea - cooling systems - full of water = full of rust OR no coolant at all
Hey Mike, I’ve just commented on another video of yours because I couldn’t find this one but I’ve just rewatched it and it’s great! My question is- am I able to do your t seal fix with the engine in the car? Ive got it all apart now with sump off and transmission is Comming out tomorrow, I’ve taken the bolts out of the rear bearing cap but the cap doesn’t want to come out. Any tips?
It will be tight
MIKE czy możesz w opisie wpisywać numery nowych części pozdrawiam.
później
Hello Mike! love the series and all the work you are doing to entertain and educate us, i have a question tough, could this method of using silicone instead of the seals be used on a series engine as well? i dont see why not but just curious if you have any experience with this.
Yes, absolutely
thanks for your great video, my 97 300tdi crank is moving back and forward by 4mm im very worried about that , any advise would be great thanks
That is a lot of end float! Sounds as if you have an issue with the thrust washers in the engine block - it is unusual for them to wear, and although inspection is required you need to find out why they wore in the first place!
Could be oil starvation or prolonged pressing of the clutch, or I have seen these heavy-duty clutches do this due to the higher clamping pressure, requiring more pressure applied to the pedal
@@BritannicaRestorations great info many thanks
@@BritannicaRestorations had the oil pan out to day and a big surprise the thrust washers were taking a oil bath there , i made a smiley face from them , ill need to order new ones oversize i thing , i hope i can install them with out the crank out ,ill ask the fairy god mother to help
MIKE oto chodziło.
Do you have any experience with the discovery 2 3 amigos? I had a faulty new wheel bearing go on me (new hub, looks like the seals were bad) and that seems to have triggered the amigos. I hear a faint beeping from my ABS unit as well. I've since replaced the hub and sensor again but it looks like I may need to get the abs amigo to clear the code or take it to a dealership, and that beeping worries me. Code p1590 from my ultragauge for my wheel speed sensor, which again leads me to think the abs code just needs to be cleared. Does this sound right? Do you have a video to anything on this issue? Sorry to bother you mate youre just by far the most useful guy on RUclips when it comes to this sort of thing and I cant seem to search your videos on mobile to see if you've already covered this.
cheap bearings are not so cheap when they shit the tin early and you have to redo all the work again early. BTW did you find the perentie 6X6 manuals interesting?
Yes some interesting stuff!
On the oil squirt jets, should there be copper washers on the bolts? I know it had some on my 200tdi and it looks very similar or did they not hve them on the 300?
There are no copper washers on the jets
When you fitted the piston cooler nozzles, did the banjo bolts have sealing washers?
No
@@BritannicaRestorations I pulled my pan/sump for a leak and ended up finding the nozzle part of my cooler nozzle in the bottom, pulled the main part of the cooler and no sealing washer. Pulled the next one down to have a look and it had a copper sealing washer. Checked the military parts book (110 Wolf) and no washer, looked at the civvy repair manual and it mentions a sealing washer. Oh the joys of having a British vehicle in Northern Alberta.
Are you old enough to remember Limahl’s Neverending Story , Mike ?
Sadly yes..
Britannica Restorations Ltd Reminds me of the rebuild !!
hi mike. what solution do you find is best to use in your ultrasonic cleaner?
I use an industrial restaurant cleaner - you only need a splash in the water and the degreases very well
Can the rearmost cap and T seals/sealer be replaced along the the rear main seal with engine in the vehicle as long as flywheel housing is removed. While doing a clutch for example?
Yes but very difficult
Hi, first of all thanks for your videos. I have a doubt about main bearing screws, iI can ser there are 8 flat head screws and only 2 with holes on it,which are in the number 4 main bearing. I need to know the two references for those two types of screws in order to replace it, could you please help me with that?
Thanks for all.
These?
www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-engine/300tdi/sump_53196#15
@@BritannicaRestorations
Thanks for your reply, but no, in this case I mean main bearing screws from the crankshaft. There are 10 screws but 2 of them are different from the others because have a “hole” on it, and I cant find part references for 8x flat head screws and 2x “hole” head screws in order to replace it.
Thanks for your time.
ERR3419
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks a lot for that.
Building an engine is more satisfying than sex. At least at my age.
Enjoyed that Mike, just a question, my 200tdi engine been sat for nearly a year as I've rebuilt the whole landy. What do you recommend for the engine before I start it up ??
Fresh oil and filter then glow plugs out, turn it by hand a few times to make sure it is free, and with the wire off the injector pump, spin it over to get the oil round - plugs in, wire on and fire it up
Thanks for advise Mike, can only take 2 glow plugs out as two have snapped off a while ago but it starts with two as our winters arnt as cold as yours. All the best Mike.