WHAT SHOULD WE DO?! Our Jeep Build Plans Are FALLING APART!
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- When trying to build the ultimate rock crawling Jeep Wrangler...it's expected that things probably won't go as planned. Or that the plans change...several times. And maybe we just need help deciding which direction we actually need to go in order to get this Jeep back off road and on the trails!
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This episode should be called “Kevin came in like a wreeeecking baaall!”
🤣🤣🤣
If you are not going to do the frame swap now, just make what you have work. Get as much travel as you can from the parts on hand.
Then when you do the frame swap you can make those modifications with a square (straight) frame.
Personally I would do the frame swap first, so that I had a fresh square frame to work with. Rather than trying to use the old bent and twisted frame. Then going backwards and having to cut everything back out, to weld back into the new frame.
I love these videos as much as the rock crawling videos.
Just keep on wheeling the Bronco until you get the Stepchild where you want her.
We want to see how far the Bronco will go before you decide that you have to start doing these kind of modifications to it.
You also need to hire a cameraman for Chris when you guys are gone.
Don't get me wrong here, Chris does a great job filming these videos, but I feel like there is a lot more that he is unable to film because he is busy doing the work that he isn't able to record.
I agree with the frame, I also think going to 16” would be awesome I get how Kevin feels if he going to do it, get most bang out of it.
14s you will never regret going bigger!! For your wheelbase and tire size a 14 inch stroke shock will give you a great balance of performance. Your arc radius with your link size won’t be to radical.
Great video! Whatever you decide, please double Chris' salary! Good to see masters at work!
Thanks for bringing us back some Jeep content. 15" is the goal- Chris is awesome and needs the challenge to stay on his game!
Yes but where is the Beer Fridge and BBQ area ? What about the lounge couch and stools for brainy ideas / discussion and beer tasting ? Don't forget a white board for visualization of said ideas !
This build will be bad ass for sure. Can't wait to see it! One thing I would suggest is not putting the battery anywhere below the floor board. Better to have it above because of water fording, ease of access, and better protection. Put it in the back cargo area if you have to.
You’re this far in and with everything y’all do, in my opinion I think you’ll regret not going as big as you can with the Stepchild being this far torn down. But whatever y’all decide Chris will have it done right. Dude is an awesome fabricator.
See y’all in a few weeks In Tennessee.
I say just decide on the 14” set up.
It’ll suck for Chris to have to redo some stuff, but then your won’t be bouncing back and forth between doing it and not doing it. You also won’t hit a trail in 3 months where you’re like “I would’ve made that if I had the 14” setup.”
16" are the way to go!!!
You could bench race for months over all the possibilities; I’m voting build it with the parts you have and flog it until the stock frame falls apart, cuz we all know that’s coming in the not-so-distant future lol.
Honestly at this point, with how long the Stepchild has been down and with all the work being done just remove the time constraints. Do the frame replacement, Go for 16 inches of travel that would be amazing seems a shame not to do it. Build the baddest Jeep JL 426, that is what you want Kevin and that is what LiteBrite Nation wants for you. Do the things, do all the things!!!
If you have the resources, time, and budget, I recommend going for the max you can get out of it. Otherwise, you'll wonder "what if" whenever you go hard on the trail. I would also consider doing the frame swap. Now that you're providing more time, have a clean slate to build off of.
Wow! The project is in good hands with you. You are making applied engineering calculus and vector analysis decisions while creating the dream. I am so envious of your shop setup. Carry On Sir!
Depends on how much travel the new rear set up ends up with. Finish the rear first, then decide. I would NOT remove the standard shock eyes, and weld on uniballs to shaft, too much chance of breaking at an inopportune time. I usually set both bypass and coil carrier with 1/16- 1/8" clearance at full bumpstop bump, so none of the energy at full bottom gets transfered to their shock mounts.
If you do a small change now, a year from now you’ll get board and want to upgrade. Just go big now and do it once
Do what will keep you from regretting, that you didn't do it the first time. I had too many people telling me what I should do to my YJ when I was building it. I had to go back and redo it, to my original idea. It now has been 15 years, and I have had no regrets about my original plan. Sure it's metal, and can be cut and welded for multiple changes. But it's more fun using it, than always changing it. Unless you're trying to keep Chris busy, so he doesn't get into trouble. 😂.
Maximize travel you'll be happier, Kevin will regret not doing it when hes out on the trail. Best to take the time and do it now and be done with it the way you want it. Yes Chris has extra work but he loves extra work lol.
go with 16s front and back and if you cant use the whole coil over right away oh well but you'll have them already for when that time comes, my 16s have so much travel i can diagonally cross a small ditch and i only feel a little flex steer but no bump from hitting bump stop its like a magic carpet. im running 67.5% sitting droop ratio. 3 linked. my biggest problem is u joint bind from trying to run a stock caster angle stock pinion angle axle. Need to cut an turn the inner C's.
Hell of a Thumbnail there Kev! Next time let Brit do it! Chris has his work cut out. “Never enough time to do it right but always enough time to do it over.” I had to keep hitting Pause to stop and see what you were talking about. No way would I mount the battery under the chassis - better inside somewhere safe and accessible. StepChild 3.0 will be awesome, again, eventually. LiteBriteNationShocksGirations!
Great work, Chris, from one tech to another.
Kevin do it the way you want it now.
Chris good luck can’t wait to see what you come up with!
Its settled. Chris is setting it up for 16in Coil Overs.
It's not always about more flex. It's about better balance. Match the rear. Plus when you go too much, the sway bar can't keep up and you will end up restricting that extra flex anyways. Just think of what happened when you added the antirocks in the first place.
I think Chris is right, if you go too far, you cross too far into buggy territory. You can always go bigger but you risk losing the integrity of the Step Child. Not to mention, you could easily lose the ride quality and everything you love about it.
Another thing to consider is something in the software industry known as scope creep, where you keep changing/adding on while the project is still being worked on, to the point where you'll never get the project done because you keep changing what was originally agreed upon.
15” deep stroke is best. Remove limiter. You can do it!
You guys always say go big or go home, so I like the idea of extending the brackets & going for 16s!.
I was slightly disappointed because there were no bloopers at the end, but then I realized the entire video was nothing but bloopers. This is the longest video you guys have ever done, and accomplished absolutely nothing. Thanks, Kevin! As far as suggestions, go big or go home. If it were me, I would tell Chris what I want to maximize, give him a budget, go on vacation, and tell him it needs to be done in two weeks. Preferably somewhere with no communication, so Kevin can't come up with more "ideas." 😂
No boops, no bleeps, 😂
Chris is the mad scientist. Definitely a boss fab’r
Whatever you’re paying Chris it’s not enough. He could have a shop doing a couple mill a year very easy
Denver needs more quality Jeep shops
We gave him a big raise, don’t worry. 😁
I’d save all the work for the bigger shocks until the next inevitable iteration of the Step Child. Going with the longer ones you already were planning will give you much better performance as is and I don’t think you will be disappointed.
Honestly I think your answer is right on the lift I mean come on its the one and only stepchild I think it needs to be the baddest mother truckin jeep on the planet.
I have a JLU with RockKrawler 3-Link, Dynatrac 72.5", 40" tires. My shocks are capable of 15" of travel, with a ride height allowing 5" of up travel. However the max shock travel I can get is currently right at 14". The following areas are the limiting factors on my jeep. The driveshaft binds a 13" of droop. I do have a custom-grind JE Reel for extra clearance, but still have a center straps to limit double tire droop. This protects the drive shaft, but limits my full range of articulated droop until fully articulated. The Steersmarts draglink made contact with the frame at full articulated droop. I notched the frame to take care of that and moved the axle forward to clear the frame crossbar. Full articulated droop is now limited to 14" by the Steersmarts rod end on the draglink. I will run this for a while, and the next level of modifications for me will be relocating the oil cooler from the transmission to allow use of a 1480 drive shaft and fabricating a custom draglink using heims to gain increased misalignment. Can't wait to see what you guys come up with on your build!
Nice setup
14/16 with tbb is easy. 16/16 is really hard unless you go thru the hood but it’s still a pain to get it all to work with no binding of ds. And also remember those clearances you have on 10’s will be waaay different on 14 or 16. You’re going to have to notch your frame.
I liked your wheeling content before but I REALLY like the rig mod videos Chris does. Keep those coming!!!
I’ve gone down the rabbit hole, it’s a pain in the ass to make it all work, you create more problems with more travel and takes longer. I’m sure you will end up with coilovers hitting the frame at full droop, etc. so then it takes even more time and work but in the end I’d say it’s worth it
Bummer, I was really looking forward to seeing the stepchild at Keepers Jamboree this past weekend. Oh well, it was good to see you all out in the wild none the less
It’s the Stepchild! Maximize it!
All right guys you are our example of what our jeeps could be. So I Say do the responsible thing and go 14s. Because at the end of the day you will be happy with it and if you go 12s you will always say I should of gone 14s while it was apart. It's just time and a little money. It's cheaper to do it now than later
You have a full on shop with a top tier mechanic, MAX that beast out!!!
Maximize droop and be done. Chris your a bad ass I should be getting my Fusion king pin in any day now so I’ll be doing a lot of the same to make it all work.
Burn in what you got and run it till the frame gives way. Then swap the frame and add 16's for Stepchild 4.0.
Yall are way to smart for me to help, the stepchild is who it is because of the great folks of lightbrite, thats said remember some of us live vicariously through you to an extent. So if you CAN go bigger and better, do it!
Did Kevin just say, “the reach around”? You guys are definitely my people. Love y’all
L/B. We get it - give your 'Stepchild' a total of 15" of travel on the front axle and 17" on the rear axle to make it go ? Britpart offer XD skeleton shock turrets which provide an idea of balancing the same amount of droop vs tuck travel by centering your shock over a front axle. Chris will need to flip the shock mounts on Stepchild's back axle with a battery box beneath as per Classic Defender ! Simply go harder or go home we say. V
I say take it to the limit. There's no use in doing all of this and not getting all you can get out of it. I would seriously rethink the battery placement. All the abuse and mud and water that will happen under there is not going to be good for the battery. I would figure out some kind of compartment on the inside for it. I know it's a badass battery but it's not indestructible and the connections would be a problem too. Love the channel and I hope you pay Chris good because he's worth a bundle with all his knowledge and capabilities to do just about anything you can dream up and do it well.
Just go all the way now! Do it like you want it the first time if not your not gonna be happy!!!
Lovee it when you geek out on the build Chris! You rock!
The other half of the fun of having custom everything 😂, great video guys!!! I hope everything is going well with the house ❤️❤️💯🤙
So cool. I am a bit concerned about the “paper” clearance between some of the parts. With all the loads and stresses these axels will get I would think even an inch clearance between the shocks and other parts might be calling it close. But then, what do I know. 😂
DO THE FRAME!!! Then 16” coil overs
Just be simple and order a genright EXS for the stepchild 🤣
Y be simple like most jeep build when the stepchild NEEDS to be a stand alone monster !!!!!
They wouldn’t want the whole kit just the frame so it still wouldn’t be simple. Hopefully they go for 16 inches of travel which would be incredible, with that much flex a stiffer, square frame would be nice.
Just watched this and all i can think to say is "you guys are nuckin' futz!" In a nice way of course.
I don’t know what you will do about the jeep(go big), but one thing is for sure. Chris deserves a raise every time Kevin walks into the shop and changes something!
Don't settle. Go bigger!
BAD to the BONE Jeep!!! Chris is genius!
Whatever you do, you need to be at smoking mountain jeep festival. I finally get to go. Yeah! I do like Kevin's bad ass jeep idea 14 to 16 inches of drop. However, it sounds like a whole lot of modifications. See you in Tennessee!
We’ll be there! 😁🤙
Did you ever find that you’re current amount of travel kept you from doing an obstacle or a line that you wanted? You also still plan on driving this on long distance trips. I wonder what the benefit to work, time and reliability are with what you’re trying to make this do.
Since you're this far, get what you really want. And keep the battery inside!
More is better! Seriously though.. You're already there.. Might as well make it better now rather than tearing it all apart one more time! And BTW, you prob didn't see my FB message.. Thanks again for you're advise on caster.. Finally installed adjustable upper and lower front control arms on my JKU and dialed in some more caster.. Game changer!
Currently I think the best option would be to pull the limiter, weld the Uniballs get the 13 inches, limiter straps, move the axle bracket, for time crunch reasons, and if you end up not being happy with it, go bigger 14 or 16 on stepchild 4.0 🤷♂️🤷♂️
I agree, just do the frame swap now...and I like the hoops through the hood.
More travel is always better. I’m at 11 1/2 inch is of travel front and rear and it’s not enough. 14 inches, and you’re starting to get there. That so-called limiter is to keep your shaft from bending, when landing with the shocks fully extended. Not a good thing to take out. Taking off the end of the shock and welding a uniball to it to shorten it up is not good because now you have a custom shock, that’s not easily replaceable. What Chris started to do with the 12 inches of travel is good. And they’re real bypass shocks which is excellent. But if you can switch it up right now and do 14 inch, just do it. You’ll be happy with that set up for a long time.
Look at your drag link when flexed out. Dropping the pass. side. You may run out of alignment and stress your sector shaft.
Personally I feel like all this could have been worked out before all that work was done, but hey, it's not my jeep... If I remember right, weren't you thinking of replacing the frame at a later date?? Would it make more sense to do all this at that time? If those longer Bilstein's are even available? Gotta say, Chris is a pretty patient guy!
When I saw the first video I wondered what prevented you from raising the shock tower height. Now I know you can get that done. Great!
Put your old drive shaft in at the t case. Let it dangle at the axle to show you what droop is actually feasible without larger joints or grinding yokes. What angle is it at now, with 1350’s What does the 1410 joint net you in additional droop?
Now, is it worth it? You weren’t running a suck down winch on your front end, because you didn’t need one with that short of travel. When you go to longer travel and you get vertical on a climb, it will unload that much more. This is one one thing you are going to have to think about PLANNING for if you try for 14” of travel.
This is a rockcrawler I don’t like things hanging below axle centerline. Shock mounts, link mounts, steering cylinders, steering links, whatever. Move the lower mounts up, and move the upper mount according to what ever shock configuration you decide. If it has to poke through the hood, so be it. There is actually a performance advantage to springing a rock crawler from a higher point. It has to do with the relationship of the CG to roll axis to the spring points of the chassis. Higher means more stable on a side hill.
Absolutely get as much travel as you can. You won’t regret more travel, but you will regret less. But it’s an easy game of “what-ifs”
Great content. Every build runs into concerns.
You’d be silly not to do the extra work for 14” shocks. Do it once!
I went 12 front 14 rear to just get going. And while it wheels great and 0 complaints I’m already contemplating cutting it all out to get to 14 front 16 rear….do it once is my vote
Go big if Bilsrein has them. This is light Brite and you have a Chris!
What’s the genright frame setup for 16” coil over s if I remember right? Copy that if your not gonna buy one now. Best solution
if your going to go out, go all out .... EVO sell a 14" kit for the JL so at least do 14" ... and maybe toss the JT rear trailing arm on the rear ... no one else is doing that , thats 22" of rear travel ...
and we'll see you in Gatlinburg ;)
Don't hack up shocks if you don't have too. Either run whatcha got or go 14s. I cut out the battery box and what not on my jk and ran 14s. It's great but doesn't really do much more than 12s on the trail. Your really just chasing a couple inches of down travel that doesn't usually have weight on it anyway.
If you're not going with 16s in the rear, 14s in the front won't really be useful.
If it were mine, I'd run the 12s front and 14s rear.
Also, the battery, closer to the engine bay is best for impedance on the wires, Your starter will thank you.
upsize 1/0 size copper for increased lenghts of cables
I do not have the knowledge to figure out on the front end of this project, I do understand what you discussing, barely!!! Kevin, go for it!!! Chris, just do it!! LOL i know you can do it and make it AWESOME!!!!
Go for the 14s. You need more than a little improvement after all this work. You can also remake the towers without the shims. Suggest more than paper clearance the way Kevin drives.
Why didn't Criss punch Kevin?? I absolutely LOVE your channel!
I say go with the 14" Go big or go home; The Step Child deserves it!!! (and so do you guys)
If it is in the cards I would go 14s now and be done with it. It looks like you have plenty of room, I did 12s on my rig and it is great, (I didn’t want to redo all the front tube work), we stuffed 14s under the hood of my brothers and it is even better. (Although both need some tuning to make them even better)
Full send it, thats the Stepchild way. If you don't you will always regret it!
GO! or I will be disappointed. Chris has MAX patience!
I really hope you guys pay Chris extremely well. He's fuckn smart af. You'd be totally lost without him
We definitely do. 😁 Even gave him a big raise too.
@LiteBrite so great to hear. Absolutely love your channel. All of it. Your in my top 5 to watch. I dont have a top 10 so that's saying something.
Why don't you just save the time and effort and get a *** 3" BODY LIFT KIT***so you can do the taller shocks and suspension lift kit
Go 14". You'll always have that nagging feeling in the back of your mind questioning the 12s. Chris will crush it regardless
At some point suspension will bind. If you all have checked that and you know you can get a 14 in travel shock to fully travel go that route. Like you said your already doing all this work and you know if you don’t do it now you will regret not doing it and then down the road your going to down the jeep again it’s going to be way more work to cut off fully welded brackets. Just do it the way you really want it right now. Just my thoughts. It’s good to see Chris actually knows what he is doing so many people on RUclips just act like it and put bad information out keep up the good work!
Don't worry Chris I will have Kevin rethink his autograph about 25 times at the jeep invasion lol. Solid as always ;)
Y’all crack me up!🤣🤣🤣 just make it bad ass!
You’re gonna do a new frame in the future. Leave all those big changes for when you swap that. Work with what you have now
You guys do crazy like no other! Love the technical aspects mixed with real world use. I kinda laugh seeing Stepchild 3.0 and the progression of the stepchild. In December 2018 I made the below list to keep track of the mods and possibilities for my own JK, but you quickly went above and beyond. Thanks for the great content!
JL Wrangler build
MetalCloak Rocksliders $599
MetalCloak Underbody skids $1420
MetalCloak stabilizer relocation kit $49
MetalCloak dual rate 3.5” lift kit $1565
Motobilt Diff covers $198
Motobilt rear bumper $549
Motobilt license plate bracket $149
RCV Axle kit $1300
Adams rear 1350 Driveshaft $749
Raceline 232 beadlocks x 5 $2055
Milestar Patagonia 38x13.5x17 MTx5 $1780
Barricade winch $500
Best Top sunrider $799
67 Designs cell phone kit $149
Steer smarts yeti XD tie rod kit est $800
West Texas ram assist $599
Total: $12,111
I think you should do it. If not you will regret when it's done. Yes it's more work but will be well worth it.
GO BIG Kevin!!!! but not "Monster Truck" big...
I vote extra extra numbers. If it's possible to do, then why not do it? Less regret in the end. And your brackets will be placed the way you want. I think the battery tray where the gas tank used to be is more maintenance accessible.
Just start over Chris when Kevin shows up or wait and start when he gets back .lol
Will Rock Krawlers new draglink accept the extra down travel? I heard Chris say the caster changes sounds like you loose caster which will likely bind the draglink without going to heim joints for a draglink. We have gone through and relocated everything for a JLU for 14" 3.0 vertical coilovers sitting on top of the axle. But with a 40" tires with out changing the front fenders (not flares) fenders then You wont be gaining more up travel. 12" travel with the adjustability of the bypass will do as good as the Jeep its self can handle without destroying the JL creature comforts. 4 linking the rear? I think you will gain more from a 4 link rear over a trackbar rather than a 1" or maybe 2" travel up front. Excited to see what you do to it. Have to hit a trail together again!
It doesn't matter how tall you make it, You're still short and the center of gravity rules! "The Not So Teenage Ninja Mutant Hamster Strikes AGAIN!" Sorry Chris, You were dolng Great!
In my opinion, I would leave the towers that you have now, and run the shorter shocks. If you’re concerned about the lower amount, Phil can chop the shafts and do a king style lower mount.
If you end up running a 14, you are probably going to want to put longer links in the vehicle. The axle is moving towards the rear of the vehicle pretty far at droop already.
You seem upset about only one extra inch of travel, but the quality of travel is more important than the gross number.
When you put 14s on something with a full body, (is never designed to) you may as well just go to a buggy.
Oh, and in the rear, you should just go trailing arm. It packages pretty nice.
Also, droop travel is important Rockcrawling, if you wanna go fast, it’s all about bump
Go all the way with your Rig !!
That's tons of money spent already and when will you be upgrading again ?? Get it right and what you want the first time. Later on you won't regret it.
14s or 16s.
Go for it!!
Will the driveshaft drop that far? Maybe find out before you worry about all the droop
and Step Child 4.0 happens sooner with a brand new frame to support everything! Cause something is gonna break! All that is if Chris doesn't go running off into the woods yelling in coherent words! Hang in there Chris....