Very well presented. I have the V860ii and usually add a bounce modifier to it for event work. Would seriously consider the V1 if I were to do it again.
Now I choose my first flash. I do not want to take models on AA batteries. Can you recommend V860ii or is it better to pay extra ($40 in my case) and get V1?
For consumer level flashes, generally you are setting the flash power to 1/16 or lower. This technically gives 16 rapid fire flashes. In practice, you would use 1/32. The lithium battery recharges the flash to full power faster, but this typically takes 1.5 seconds. So you use lower power to use the energy stored in the capacitors of the flash. I get rapid fire flash on AA battery power flashes at 1/16 and 1/32. Very high end strobes can rapid fire, but they are large and very expensive. It would be better to use a continuous LED lighting.
@@RobTrek I have seen several videos were people use the godox v350 flash and they use it to focus stack with no delay between shots. Useful for insect macro. Could be the small flash size uses so little power that the lipo can keep up.
That thing about left and right fall off in case you are shooting and plan to stitch them in editing caught me. I could very well run into situations like that. I wouldn't trust my editing skills enough to make them invisible.
@@RobTrek I just thought it may be good a as pre diffuser. I already have a number of diffusers as close up work is my main hobby but never tried a round head flash. The semi new Godox CD15 dome diffuser works really well with the TT350o & 60mm Oly Lens, and diffuses far better than the others of this type that I have also tried. It sits right on top of the end of the lens and spreads the light really evenly
@@RobTrek Thanks much. I did see this one. I was looking at doing macro/extension tube shots of insects vs slow methodical with stationary subjects. I was not clear, sorry.
I've tried it. When pointing the light up at the ceiling, more light spreads onto the walls. Most walls are painted a different color from the ceiling - blue, yellow, red, etc... Where as ceilings are usually white. This was causing strong color casts across the entire image. With the round head, I can point most of the light at the ceiling.
For the V860III, to make this short, if the bounce card is lifted out even a little bit then adjusting Zoom is disabled. No menu or controls or power reset will restore it. That has caught many people by surprise because it doesn't seem to be mentioned in the owner manual and it's easy to leave a bit of the card sticking out to grab it another time.
Thank you for your videos they are the best I have found on youtube I am new to the Olympus/ OM1 camera having shot with Canon for 20 plus years . However I am struggling a bit with flash for macro photography mainly insects etc would the V1 be bettter beacuse of the more even light spread or does it not matter beacuse of the distance or would the FL700 be a more softer light ? . At the moment I am using the TT350 on my OM1 and find it a bit harsh , but the problem is the AA batteries draining quickly thats why I am looking at the godox V1 for the lithium battery option . Or can you explain how to soften the light more I have tried various diffusers and settings bit of a learning curve but I am loving the camera for macro photography its far better than Canon . The kit I am using at the moment is the OM1 andd the 60 mm macro great combination but as soon as I can get 1 I am going to get the new 90 mm macro .
They make a v350 but I'd recommend the V1 or V860iii instead. Regardless of flash, they all will produce about the same light in macro. Getting a diffuser will be needed. I'll see if I can make a quick video on diffusers.
@@RobTrek Thank you for the reply I will look forward to the video on diffusers . I have been looking at the V1 myself due to the lithium batterys as I want to do bracketing etc . Quick update I think my flash is faulty cant get it to go from 14 mm the bulb seems to be stuck at the front it wont go into AU and move back :( .
Hi there! thank you for this brilliant comparison, you cleared my mind a lot. I still have a question though. I think I prefer the light offered by the circular flash, because of the troubles that come with shooting with a less diffused light source. Some kind of round modifiers maybe could be applied to the 685 or 860 and give the effect of the v1 flash. The difference in price with the 685 is what's stopping me from buying the v1 right away. Also, maybe the rectangular one is more versatile as far as tools go, because it's more common. Maybe if you have the rectangular one you can do most of the job the circular one does, but I'm not sure it works viceversa. What would you say? Thanks in advance, again great video 🌿
There is nothing you can't do with a square head that you can with a round head. The key difference between the 685 and V1 is the lithium battery in the V1. Much faster recycle times and longer run time.
Hello Rob. Thanks again. I am thinking of the Godox v350 or v860iii. Does the 860iii (V1) work well with stacking please? Will it fire off 50 times without any delay?. Also will the 860 work with the OM-1 using TTL? Thanks
If the flash is on-camera, focus bracketing seems to work fine. I set it to 99 frames, and got 99 frames with flash when shooting both camera and flash in full manual. Focus stacking works well and is limited to 15 frames. Just be conscious of the flash power setting. Anything more than 1/32 things will start to slow down. Barely noticeable until you get to 1/4 power. However, in TTL with focus bracketing & stacking does not work properly. TTL for normal single shot shooting is generally reliable, but it does mis exposure time to time. Same for off camera TTL with Godox Xpro triggers. If you want to do focus bracketing and stacking with TTL on or off camera, you'll need to get an Olympus Flash. I've not tried other brands other than Godox.
@@RobTrek thank you for a full answer. If I use TTL metering it will be for regular photography. For focus stacking or bracketing (or studio work) I will use it in full manual. I mainly wanted to I know, if I set it to fire off 50 frames for focus bracketing at 1/16 power, for example, would the v860iii be man enough to do this without having to put a delay in the menu.
@@alandimery3379 I just wanted to add that it seems the camera will wait for the flash to recharge before firing, so you may not even need to set the flash delay setting.
Hi I wonder if you can help me? I have a Godox TT350 O and an OMD EM1 Mk iii camera. When I attach the flash to the camera and check out the flash settings available in the camera, the full power option is always greyed out so I can only use fill flash. Do you know why that might be? Thanks
Generally the flash will be in TTL mode when on-camera, so the full power option is not needed. To use full power, you'd have to put the flash in manual mode and dial in 1/1.
@@RobTrek oh I see, I'll give that a try, thank you very much indeed for replying, I really appreciate it. On a different topic, I downloaded some of your OM workspace batch files but they don't show up when I try to open them, even though ones I have saved myself do and they're all in the same folder, do you have anyone thoughts on that? Thanks again for the reply and all the videos, you do, they're incrediblely helpful and have genuinely transformed my enjoyment of photography. 👍👍
If you shoot the flash directly at a person, the skin will have an ugly sheen, harsh shadows, etc. Who shoots the flash directly at the subject and doesn't use a diffuser? From this point of view, the round head seems useless to me because you have nothing to use it for
Using direct flash is a creative choice, same as using a diffuser. There are some practical differences in certain situations too. But for the most part, either square or round will give the same results, especially when using a diffuser.
none of those speedlites give even light, for indoor if you wanna lit interior evenly you cant just put light directly and take the shoot, you have to bounce light or put them into special softbox. To me V1 with this rounded head is a gimmicky, 860III win because has nice feature, it is modeling light under the head, and when i turn head behind me to bounce light from wall behind for example at weddings, i still can, softly lit people at front, a very useful thing, and second important advantage 860, without any modifier has stronger focused light, which they are build for, if i want to soft light, i don't need any v1, i just put magsphere, job done
5:04 This is very useful information for me as a photographer!
Very well presented. I have the V860ii and usually add a bounce modifier to it for event work. Would seriously consider the V1 if I were to do it again.
Thanks!
Now I choose my first flash. I do not want to take models on AA batteries. Can you recommend V860ii or is it better to pay extra ($40 in my case) and get V1?
"I don't have the v860 cause I brought the V1 instead"
that's all I needed to know haha
Lookup up the "S2 Bowens Mount". They modified it to accommodate the round head.
Yep. I have one. Works great!
Thank you so much Rob for your time to answer me ❤️👍
Happy to help!
Does the TT685 do rapid flash for focus stacking macro shots? Thought that was one of the big benefits of the lipo powered flashes.
For consumer level flashes, generally you are setting the flash power to 1/16 or lower. This technically gives 16 rapid fire flashes. In practice, you would use 1/32. The lithium battery recharges the flash to full power faster, but this typically takes 1.5 seconds. So you use lower power to use the energy stored in the capacitors of the flash. I get rapid fire flash on AA battery power flashes at 1/16 and 1/32. Very high end strobes can rapid fire, but they are large and very expensive. It would be better to use a continuous LED lighting.
@@RobTrek I have seen several videos were people use the godox v350 flash and they use it to focus stack with no delay between shots. Useful for insect macro. Could be the small flash size uses so little power that the lipo can keep up.
Perfect! Exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks for explaining this. I thought it was something to do with the bulb they use inside.
My goodness! It's been a long time since I've heard from you. Good to see you again.
That was really helpful and helped me make an informed decision. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
This has been the best comparison I've seen..
Thanks!
That thing about left and right fall off in case you are shooting and plan to stitch them in editing caught me. I could very well run into situations like that. I wouldn't trust my editing skills enough to make them invisible.
Would a round head be better for macro or close up photography for reducing hot spots ?
The v1 for macro I really like with the magnetic modifiers it has. Have used both, very easy to snap off and on mag diffuser on v1
A round head would make very little difference. You need a flash macro diffuser to soften the image. These can be had for as little as $6.
@@RobTrek I just thought it may be good a as pre diffuser.
I already have a number of diffusers as close up work is my main hobby but never tried a round head flash.
The semi new Godox CD15 dome diffuser works really well with the TT350o & 60mm Oly Lens, and diffuses far better than the others of this type that I have also tried. It sits right on top of the end of the lens and spreads the light really evenly
Do you have a video on using Godoy flashes for focus stacking and bracketing? I have the OM-1 and EM1 Mark iii. Thanks.
Yes. Watch this ruclips.net/video/7nM-MZMD-EA/видео.html Let me know if you have any questions.
@@RobTrek Thanks much. I did see this one. I was looking at doing macro/extension tube shots of insects vs slow methodical with stationary subjects. I was not clear, sorry.
Have you considered the AD200 with the AD-S17 for architecture work?
I've tried it. When pointing the light up at the ceiling, more light spreads onto the walls. Most walls are painted a different color from the ceiling - blue, yellow, red, etc... Where as ceilings are usually white. This was causing strong color casts across the entire image. With the round head, I can point most of the light at the ceiling.
On real world use, for me which photograph event or journalism rectangular head is more useful since they have bouncing card built in..
Thanks for sharing your experience.. Makes sense..
For the V860III, to make this short, if the bounce card is lifted out even a little bit then adjusting Zoom is disabled. No menu or controls or power reset will restore it. That has caught many people by surprise because it doesn't seem to be mentioned in the owner manual and it's easy to leave a bit of the card sticking out to grab it another time.
Thank you for your videos they are the best I have found on youtube I am new to the Olympus/ OM1 camera having shot with Canon for 20 plus years . However I am struggling a bit with flash for macro photography mainly insects etc would the V1 be bettter beacuse of the more even light spread or does it not matter beacuse of the distance or would the FL700 be a more softer light ? . At the moment I am using the TT350 on my OM1 and find it a bit harsh , but the problem is the AA batteries draining quickly thats why I am looking at the godox V1 for the lithium battery option . Or can you explain how to soften the light more I have tried various diffusers and settings bit of a learning curve but I am loving the camera for macro photography its far better than Canon . The kit I am using at the moment is the OM1 andd the 60 mm macro great combination but as soon as I can get 1 I am going to get the new 90 mm macro .
They make a v350 but I'd recommend the V1 or V860iii instead. Regardless of flash, they all will produce about the same light in macro. Getting a diffuser will be needed. I'll see if I can make a quick video on diffusers.
@@RobTrek Thank you for the reply I will look forward to the video on diffusers . I have been looking at the V1 myself due to the lithium batterys as I want to do bracketing etc . Quick update I think my flash is faulty cant get it to go from 14 mm the bulb seems to be stuck at the front it wont go into AU and move back :( .
Hi there! thank you for this brilliant comparison, you cleared my mind a lot.
I still have a question though. I think I prefer the light offered by the circular flash, because of the troubles that come with shooting with a less diffused light source. Some kind of round modifiers maybe could be applied to the 685 or 860 and give the effect of the v1 flash. The difference in price with the 685 is what's stopping me from buying the v1 right away. Also, maybe the rectangular one is more versatile as far as tools go, because it's more common. Maybe if you have the rectangular one you can do most of the job the circular one does, but I'm not sure it works viceversa. What would you say? Thanks in advance, again great video 🌿
There is nothing you can't do with a square head that you can with a round head. The key difference between the 685 and V1 is the lithium battery in the V1. Much faster recycle times and longer run time.
Hello Rob. Thanks again. I am thinking of the Godox v350 or v860iii. Does the 860iii (V1) work well with stacking please? Will it fire off 50 times without any delay?.
Also will the 860 work with the OM-1 using TTL? Thanks
If the flash is on-camera, focus bracketing seems to work fine. I set it to 99 frames, and got 99 frames with flash when shooting both camera and flash in full manual. Focus stacking works well and is limited to 15 frames. Just be conscious of the flash power setting. Anything more than 1/32 things will start to slow down. Barely noticeable until you get to 1/4 power.
However, in TTL with focus bracketing & stacking does not work properly. TTL for normal single shot shooting is generally reliable, but it does mis exposure time to time. Same for off camera TTL with Godox Xpro triggers.
If you want to do focus bracketing and stacking with TTL on or off camera, you'll need to get an Olympus Flash. I've not tried other brands other than Godox.
@@RobTrek thank you for a full answer. If I use TTL metering it will be for regular photography. For focus stacking or bracketing (or studio work) I will use it in full manual. I mainly wanted to I know, if I set it to fire off 50 frames for focus bracketing at 1/16 power, for example, would the v860iii be man enough to do this without having to put a delay in the menu.
@@alandimery3379 I just wanted to add that it seems the camera will wait for the flash to recharge before firing, so you may not even need to set the flash delay setting.
Hi I wonder if you can help me? I have a Godox TT350 O and an OMD EM1 Mk iii camera. When I attach the flash to the camera and check out the flash settings available in the camera, the full power option is always greyed out so I can only use fill flash. Do you know why that might be? Thanks
Generally the flash will be in TTL mode when on-camera, so the full power option is not needed. To use full power, you'd have to put the flash in manual mode and dial in 1/1.
@@RobTrek oh I see, I'll give that a try, thank you very much indeed for replying, I really appreciate it.
On a different topic, I downloaded some of your OM workspace batch files but they don't show up when I try to open them, even though ones I have saved myself do and they're all in the same folder, do you have anyone thoughts on that?
Thanks again for the reply and all the videos, you do, they're incrediblely helpful and have genuinely transformed my enjoyment of photography. 👍👍
If you shoot the flash directly at a person, the skin will have an ugly sheen, harsh shadows, etc. Who shoots the flash directly at the subject and doesn't use a diffuser? From this point of view, the round head seems useless to me because you have nothing to use it for
Using direct flash is a creative choice, same as using a diffuser. There are some practical differences in certain situations too. But for the most part, either square or round will give the same results, especially when using a diffuser.
none of those speedlites give even light, for indoor if you wanna lit interior evenly you cant just put light directly and take the shoot, you have to bounce light or put them into special softbox. To me V1 with this rounded head is a gimmicky, 860III win because has nice feature, it is modeling light under the head, and when i turn head behind me to bounce light from wall behind for example at weddings, i still can, softly lit people at front, a very useful thing, and second important advantage 860, without any modifier has stronger focused light, which they are build for, if i want to soft light, i don't need any v1, i just put magsphere, job done
Thanks for sharing your experience.
👍💛🥂