Tapped into the hydraulics of the Kubota B7000 and finished the lift ams
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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- I decided to make some extra gussets for the loader arms. I also painted them, together with the cylinders and the rest of all the parts.
Because I took the manual control valve apart I wanted to test it for leaks and if it would work at all. I found it on the scrap yard so no guarantees. For testing I connected the tipping cylinder and it all worked fine. No leaks in the control valve and also no leaks in the Kubota hydraulics them self. I tapped in to the hydraulics from the 3 point hitch. Cut the high pressure tube and connected 2 hydraulic hoses for the manual valve. 3 point hitch is still working :-)
Next to do is to put it all together and test the lifting cylinders. Again...it wont be the fasted front end loader but I do not mind. I´m not i a hurry. Up till now I spend almost no money on it. I used scrap metal and bought the cylinders second hand. They are almost like new and where very cheap also. The hoses, steel hydraulic lines, couplings and manual control valve I found on the scrap yard and also where very cheap.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for posting this. I have a B1400 that i wish to add rear hydraulics to and your video helped a lot.
Good to hear that my videos helped out. Thanks for letting me know.
Good idea Marcel, I'm in the process of the same hydraulic line tapping, thanks for the idea of using compression fitting, Ron in Florida, USA.
No problem. Goodluck with your build.
Ps: those compression fittings still work very well. No leaks, and i used the tracktor a lot last year.
How do you do/make this? I have a original b7000, but do you need to make new pipes?
In the Kubota. B7100 it’s a block. With an aluminum cover. All you have to do it’s remove the cover and drill a hole for a 2/8 npt fitting then conect you hoses ther. Inlet. To the joy stick. Outlet from the joystick to the other hole on the aluminum cover. They tray to make it like if this is too secret. And those are not compresión fittings they are hydraulic hose and fittings 😮
E25D hinomoto tractors. Looking to add loader to this tractor do I brake the lines or is it a port that I attach to run the hydraulic system to
You have to split the hydraulic line on a B7000. There is no extra hydraulic port on this tractor
Hello I have a Kubota B7100 hst. Can you send better pict where you dit this conection please or let me know how I can contacted you.
Hi Man. Working offshore at the moment so not home for a few weeks. But its simple. Just cut the pressure line coming from your hydraulic pump. The end coming from the pump you connect to the "in" of your valve (must be open center!) And the "out" of your valve you connect to the other end of the cut hydraulic line. Thats the one going towards the supply for the 3point hitch. I used compression fittings and hydraulic hoses for connecting. I said it before: if you have no Idea what a open center valve is or dont have a clue about pressure ratings on hoses this project is not for you! Its dangerous and could kill you. Due to the setup I use its not possible to use both loader and 3point hitch at the same time anymore. Just so you know. For the rest it works perfectly. In my case for years already.
@@MH-ie1sgThank you for explaining this, helped me a lot, appreciate it 👍
What about a pressure relief valve? If it goes over pressure what gives first?
Relief valve is build in inside the manual operated valve.
@@MH-ie1sg Thanks, can i ask what fittings you used on the solid line you cut into ? I have read it on mine as 11mm od? but can't find any fittings the same. I have 1/4" hydraulic pipe to connect onto it.
@@jamieh8667
I have to take a look tomorrow because I'm not sure what size both hydraulic lines are. I used compression fittings. Cut a piece out of the pressure line and connected two hydraulic hoses that are going towards the manual control valves. It's a open center one so when not used oil flows through the valve towards the 3 point hitch. The pressure relief inside the manual control valve drains into that line also.
Pretty straight forward. Again... Will let you know tomorrow
@@jamieh8667
Hi again, I had a look and the pressure line coming from the pump is 12 mm. Like I said before: I cut a piece out of that line and on both ends I connected a 12mm hydraulic 90 degree elbow. On the other end of each elbow I connected the hoses going to the manual valve.
The elbows are of the hydraulic compression type (nut and compression ring). On The side that I connected to the hoses I skipped the ring and nut. The hose fitting fits straight onto the elbow
@@MH-ie1sg Thanks, I appreciate it!
Where is the place did you get Hydraulic out let?
See this and other videos. It will explain were and how to tap into the hydraulics. Again.... this tractor has no "extra" hydraulic connections. You have to "make" them yourself!
@@MH-ie1sg hello,
I can’t find the video were you show to take the hydrolic oil out.
Thx
@@bertenh
Again...read all my comments on all questions. In short:
Cut the hydraulic pressure line coming from the pump. Then connect a "open center" type hydraulic valve between those two ends. Be aware: it must be a open center type valve! If you do not know what this is or means then this is not a project for you!
Were did u connect valve hose
I'm not sure what you mean exactly, but the pressure line coming from the pump was cut (the smaller diameter one). Then one end of that line goes to the valve (it's a open center one) and the other side of the valve is connected to the other piece of the cut pressure line. The valve is in series with the pressure line so to speak.
Hope this helps?
@@MH-ie1sg i know it is the easiest way to go on these things but it is not really the way it should be. if you take full pressure on both the loader and on the 3 pt hitch. It will blow up your pump. Because your valve doesnt have free return anymore with the hitch handle in a work position. So the pressures of the safety valves add up.
What you need to do is getting an extra overpressure valve and put it in the pressure line of your new build block. And then back to tank. Then you are safe.
It can also be done different, than you have to take the returnline from the lift to the pressure of your scvalve and then back to return of the lift. Then it is secured by the tractors overpressure valve. But that is a lot more work. Since that valve is built in to the gearbox and they are all drilled holes in the casting.
@@megape95
You are totally right, and thanks for the warning. I did realize that and that's also the reason i never use the hitch when using the loader. In that case the hitch is holding the counterweight up and is not used.
But thanks again for pointing this out so other people are warned.
@@MH-ie1sg toch heb je het wel netjes gemaakt 😉 santé Wel grappig dat de mensen uit de andere kant vd wereld nog nooit hebben gehoord van de snijrijng koppelingen 🤣