I've experimented with Sho-Sugi-Ban finishes for guitars, using water based aniline wood dye for color. When it comes to oil finishes, I've found linseed tends to dry gummy, while tung dries soft. It seems there are only a hand full of active ingredients in wood finishes: IE tung, linseed, lac (lacquer and shellac), poly, enamel, acrylic, and mineral oil. Many products are one or more of these, often combined with solvents and/or drying agents. For raw wood such as sho-sugi-ban, I'm currently playing around with water based aniline wood dye for color, and USP grade 90 viscosity mineral oil as a finish. Results so far are very encouraging.
@@johnlee7085 my results are based on observations of the buildup on the containers. You don't usually get 1/8" buildup of linseed or tung on a guitar. The point is that you're finishing the guitar with something that is "gummy" (linseed) or "soft" (tung). I don't use linseed or tung at all anymore. Spray lacquer is my preferred finish these days.
Danish oil is Linseed oil with stain. If you want clear Danish oil you want Linseed oil. The non boiled kind. Plus the Tung oil that you have is not Tung oil. It actually does not contain any tung oil. It just looks like tung oil plus it is super toxic. Same with the Danish oil. Your best bet is getting 100% Tung oil or plain or Boiled Linseed oil. If you don't want them to be tacky mix with either Laquer thinner or Mineral Spirits. If you want a non toxic drying enhancer use orange oil. If you use then straight they can take up to 3 days to dry.
The Danish oil in 'natural' finish is probably the clear danish oil you are looking for...a side note though,they also have an even darker one called 'black walnut', as well as a cherry, red mahogany,Fruitwood,light mahogany,golden oak colors
For Danish Oil I highly recommend "Tried & True" brand... its just pure danish oil with no additives. The color is like light honey and it does not have any sort of chemical or offensive smell.
Great channel bro. I like your upbeat style and savviness! Motivation for me. I have to try this sugi ban thing soon. I've done some light torching before but never a full on sugi. Cheers! Laphroaig quarter cask tonight!
FYI, I work with 2 part epoxy on a bunch of projects. That being said, if I'm not mistaken epoxy mica powder can also be used as a stain pigment in a much wider variety of colours. Its worth a look see, maybe. Keep these vids coming.
I have used boiled linseed oil and many of my outdoor projects (wishing wells, planter boxes, raised flower beds) and love it. Love the color it brings out in the wood. I have a length of sucker rod that I drap my rags over to let them dry outside of my shop and have never had an issue with them bursting into flames. Also, I got the restorer for Christmas also but Sunday was the 1st time that I uad to be able to use it. I was stripping a twin bed down and the restorer was awesome. But like you said, wear a mask because that bad boy kicks up a dust cloud and makes a mess but gets the job done quickly. That was my very 1st time to do something in the shop since early December and I loved being out there, eventhough my weak body paid the price for it later that night. Good video and thanks for showing the different oil types.
Have you tried thinning a 2 part epoxy with xylene and used an auto spray can? The finish is amazing and is almost bullet proof! Your wood dyes can be mixed in as well. Great vids. Watch em as often as I can
@@colinrobinson1774 can you explain a little more in detail about your process with this. I wanted to do a two component epoxy on my project but it’s seriously daunting to a beginner with all of this,
Ok thanks for your help this weekend.... I ended up burning again and then I also did a good wipe down with mineral spirits. It absolutely helped with the stain I didn’t like. Definitely did the trick. I then was able to thin down the Tung oil with just a little mineral spirits. It definitely helped with the oil soak in and actually dry. I had put on two coats of Tung oil and it was not drying. I think I had a lot larger ridges from the hand brushing technique. This is why the oil was not drying it was pooling in areas. So I feel like you should definitely this out the oil. Unless you have sanded your final project. I also want to say the Tung oil bro gas out the color contrast so freaking amazingly. It made the project a 10 out of 10.... I’m very proud of my table and I have told everyone and shown so many pictures you would think I had a baby this weekend 😏
100% pure tung oil is awesome but for fast drying, you do need to cut it with an aromatic. I use it on cutting boards and there I do not want any "chemicals" so I just apply sparingly and bake dry in the oven
I’m confused, the suggestion is that the burning all but eliminates the need for treatment yet people are applying oils and coatings that will evaporate or crack or attract dust grime etc effectively returning us to a painting/oiling coating cycle the technique promises to eliminate?
Yea i feel the same.... I burn the wood then just use a wet rag and wipe the char away and leave it at that.... It looks absolutely incredible. I see lots of people sanding and scraping off the "protective" layer so youre back down to the raw wood.... It looks nice and if thats what you like great.... But to me its like doing a lot of work for nothing.
@@mizukamendoza7250 No i wet a rag and work all the char off... You can see it all coming off and the water is black... Then you see the color come out and its crazy. You have to work it a little bit at a time cuz it mucks the rag up quick but i think its worth it.
I want to do burnt wood on my business sign that we are building. So two questions. After burning what is the best thing to use to clear coat it ? Second question if I do a light stain after I burn it do I need to do a clear coat over the stain? I know nothing about wood so have no clue what is the best clear to put on it
Boiled Linseed Oil gets a bad rap for remaining sticky. I use it for guitar necks and have never had an issue with stickiness. I mix my BLO 50/50 with lacquer thinner and wipe on thin coats. After it's set 10-15 minutes I wipe off any excess. It dries nice and smooth.
I've really enjoyed your videos -- super helpful and they keep me engaged! Quick question: I'm making a interior door with charred pine. If I want to char to a deep gator finish -- what's the best way to seal that finish without losing the gator effect? I assume once it's burnt to a gator, I don't brush it or sand it. How should I best remove the dust and then seal it so it looks awesome? Thanks!
So glad found your videos. What is cheapest/best oil if I'm doing this to some support beams under my porch which won't show so don't care about cosmetics. Also, re: the boiled linseed oil - does that make the wood more flammable?
Mainly another layer of protection. But looks good too. You do need to touch up wax....like with cutting boards, etc. It depends on usage on how often Cheers!
You shouldn't have said: go with the cheapest oil! Now I'm going to use old engine oil. Lol. I thought boiled Linseed oil was the best? But you really can't tell the difference. Top video, I've subbed and liked. Cheers from Australia 🙂👍👍👍
Thanks for video. Question: I want to torch my tongue & groove pine porch boards for my front porch. After doing that, if I want a color stained or painted finish what do I need? Do I need to put anything on boards before the stain? Or do I have to just torch bottom and not top to do that?
Thanks for all you do my got my torch and my wood and gonna put some stank on a garden tool holder I’m making! Question? I’m going to cut curves using my jigsaw for slots for shovels and such, should I burn after I cut the curves or before I burn? Doesn’t it matter for warping?? Thanks!
I put down wood floor (Hemlock) on the back porch of my workshop I'm going to burn it , what would be the recommended oil , I want something that will penetrate, as appears to laying on top , will the burning prevent the oil from penetrating?
I've just found your channel just about to go through all your burning videos. Am just starting out myself doing live edge work cutting boards and going look at this kinda style aswell. I use danish oil to finish allot my work. I use the brand colron it offers natural danish and man it looks brilliant 👍🏴
I love your videos and have a chance to try this shou sugi bahn on a couple of dog houses that I am going to build for a customer. My question would be, if I was to dye the wood and use any these oils, will any of these harm the dogs? Thank you so much for your help. Keep up the great work!!
I applied teak oil to my charred boards which have fully dried over a week. Now I'm thinking of applying Defy extreme wood stain on them which I already have to make them more waterproof. I'm confused if the oil alone provides ultimate waterproofing which is why I'm thinking of doing that since these boards will be exposed to weather. What do you think/recommend?
Hey BDB. I wanna add a color to linseed oil is this possible? if not, could i use Rit dye or kool aid first followed by linseeds oil? Would this work. Though i think the Rit dye and kool aid is water base . What would you recommend. Note, i'd like to use linseed oil since i have a bunch. thanks.
Nick, one part u miss completely. If you use the oiled wood for outdoor. Several (like 5+) layers of TUNG oil suppose to survive 1-2 winters ainy seasons. BUT....5 layers of LINDSEED oil will absolutely NOT last 2 years with-out re-applying needed.
To preserve the wood for a much longer period of time utilizing linseed oil (possibly others) is to apply it liberally after burning the wood then burn the oil into the wood again. This will thin the oil and let it soak into the exposed pores of the wood helping to internally saturate and seal the wood for years of outdoor use. Beekeepers actually boil their wood bee boxes in oil or wax to preserve it for a lifetime.
Need advice..I have a project not sure of wood type, maybe basswood or poplar. I am going for a burnt wood with green color tint and high gloss (glass) finish. At what point do I burn the wood? before I put on a teak oil or after. I am using the teak oil only to strengthen the wood.
I know shou shui ban is best used on soft woods. And softwood isn’t best for cutting boards. But I want to make one lol. What’s your opinion/advise on making a shou shui ban cutting board. I was kinda thinking one route would make the cutting board slightly smaller than I’d want. Then encase it in clear epoxy
@@BuildDadBuild if you're interested in what the color looks like, here is a link to an osage orange coffee table I made and finished with the natural Watco Danish Oil. instagram.com/p/CEh92nLDxOf/?igshid=172k9c5ni9wqa. It's available on Amazon.
Just getting in to this technique. Love your videos !! Very informative, honest and hilarious !! That’s for sharing your knowledge in Joe Six Pack terminology 😂 Thanks again…. DKV
Hey man, your videos are great! The work you make looks obscenely good. I should start drinking too when I am working. But the rotating metal disks of death scare the shit out of me. I guess they think about those color variations to apply on fresh pine or common white looking wood like that. Even then maybe you cant really spot much of a difference. It's just the wet look that always comes on and those color gradations are not noticeable at all over charred wood. have a question for you. about the cupping... I am doing six big mirror wooden frames for bathroom vanities. I want to apply this technique. Should I char the frame pieces first then miter them and assembly the frame with glue or can I char the assembled piece?
You might want to try and burn first. When you're using thinner stock it's not a bad idea to start with a wider piece, burn and then cut your smaller stock out of that. Or if you want to burn it assembled you might want to consider using some metal reinforcement before you burn. Cheers!
I've been following you for a while, and when I torch kiln dried cedar and brush off the char, it just doesn't come out as light (between the dark grain)...it always come out dark brown. Maybe I'm not brushing deep enough?
That would be my first guess. I'd say that brushing the wood is an art form in itself. Getting the right pressure to remove enough, but not too much takes some time. Cheers! Nick
I've really been into doing wood finishes and came across this channel by chance. Have you tried doing this technique on gun stocks or any other types of gun furniture?
If you're doing yakisugi, you should try tsubaki (camellia) oil. If not just because I was thinking of using it for something, but can't find any videos except in Japanese where its used for wood.
@@BuildDadBuild People love it for upkeeping carbon steel tools, but I swear I've seen a video of someone putting it on some old furniture...I just don't know if thats a thing or not. Aside from reading about shou sugi ban and urushi lacquer, Google is hard failing me, lol.
Well now I'm wondering if oil plus wax will give a good protection for outside use ? I just finished to build an island made of cedars for the patio, but I am now at vanishing or oil plus wax ( I did burn it to a medium level ) Does anyone has the answer ?? ( British Columbia, Salmon arm Canada ( winter and hight humidity level)
My two cents on Danish Oil...It's basically a mixture of BLO, Mineral Spirits, and Polyurethane, right? So if you think shampoo and conditioner combined or Polyshades is a counterintuitive or lazy or just plain bad idea, why use Danish Oil? I just mix BLO and mineral spirits to get the oil thinned to soak deeper. Do a couple coats, let it cure, then finish with a poly/mineral spirit mixture (don't waste your money on rubbing poly kids, make your own!) That's also "clear" in the context of this video.
Honey that doesn't crust up when it dries is not honey. Or it might be a tiny bit of honey mixed with high fructose corn syrup (in the US). Tung oil that smells chemically- is not Tung oil, well maybe 5% is. Lots of stuff is added to tung unless it says pure tung oil. Pure tung takes a long time to dry.
Great video. I used to do a deep burn up until I got alligator skin on the surface, and then brush away the char. But then I did a light burn that required no brushing, and the results are just as good. To me, it's not worth all the extra work. Do a light burn and the seal the wood with your favorite oil/finish. BLO is inexpensive (buy a gallon), and it looks as good as any other finish. I'd love to see you test several different paste waxes and see if they are as similar as the oils you tested in this video. We could end up saving a lot of money if we can get as good or better results with the least expensive oils and waxes.
Technically oil is good enough. But it has to be re-applied. Also if you stain or color the wood, it will fade in the sun. I usually recommend some sort of UV resistant topcoat if it's going to be in full son.
@@BuildDadBuild haha! That’s awesome man! I’ve seen a bunch of your videos and think you’re a blast and put out some super informative stuff! Keep up the great work!!!
For my office shelves I used 2x6 boards with just wipe on poly ... they look amazing, great texture but no shine. I’d like to try oil on another project though. Stay cool and drink up.
Linseed oil is tacky and collects dust more just saying. Teak is my fav. Old carpenters trick 2 gal bucket 1 qt teak oil to 1 qt rub on poly to 1 qt. denatured alcohol. Make sure you mix or shake it up about once week.
The Makita wheel is an investment at $450-$699. The Restorer is a “If it works, great, if not, no big deal” buy at $129. Also, except for light jobs, The Restorer is shit.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
I did some burning this weekend and it turned out awesome. Nice to have Willie Nelson here to help me finish it. 🤘🏻♠️🤘🏻
Thank you soooo much about the cupping. I had NOOOO clue. Whoa!
Sure thing.
Occasionally a word or two of wisdom fall from my mouth. LOL
Cheers
I've experimented with Sho-Sugi-Ban finishes for guitars, using water based aniline wood dye for color. When it comes to oil finishes, I've found linseed tends to dry gummy, while tung dries soft. It seems there are only a hand full of active ingredients in wood finishes: IE tung, linseed, lac (lacquer and shellac), poly, enamel, acrylic, and mineral oil. Many products are one or more of these, often combined with solvents and/or drying agents. For raw wood such as sho-sugi-ban, I'm currently playing around with water based aniline wood dye for color, and USP grade 90 viscosity mineral oil as a finish. Results so far are very encouraging.
Great info! Thanks for sharing.
Cheers
I’ve heard that “drying gummy” comes from leaving excess linseed oil on the surface vs wiping off the excess within 30 minutes.
@@johnlee7085 my results are based on observations of the buildup on the containers. You don't usually get 1/8" buildup of linseed or tung on a guitar. The point is that you're finishing the guitar with something that is "gummy" (linseed) or "soft" (tung). I don't use linseed or tung at all anymore. Spray lacquer is my preferred finish these days.
Danish oil is Linseed oil with stain. If you want clear Danish oil you want Linseed oil. The non boiled kind. Plus the Tung oil that you have is not Tung oil. It actually does not contain any tung oil. It just looks like tung oil plus it is super toxic. Same with the Danish oil. Your best bet is getting 100% Tung oil or plain or Boiled Linseed oil. If you don't want them to be tacky mix with either Laquer thinner or Mineral Spirits. If you want a non toxic drying enhancer use orange oil. If you use then straight they can take up to 3 days to dry.
Mineral spirits aren't common (or cheap) where I'm from so I was wondering if Lacquer thinner would do as a substitute. Thank you for confirming it.
The Danish oil in 'natural' finish is probably the clear danish oil you are looking for...a side note though,they also have an even darker one called 'black walnut', as well as a cherry, red mahogany,Fruitwood,light mahogany,golden oak colors
For Danish Oil I highly recommend "Tried & True" brand... its just pure danish oil with no additives. The color is like light honey and it does not have any sort of chemical or offensive smell.
I've had that recommended a couple of times. Need to check it out!
Great channel bro. I like your upbeat style and savviness! Motivation for me. I have to try this sugi ban thing soon. I've done some light torching before but never a full on sugi. Cheers! Laphroaig quarter cask tonight!
Cheers, Homie!
As Mr. Miagi said "wax on, wax off" keep the videos coming my friend..
Thanks, David!
Cheers
FYI, I work with 2 part epoxy on a bunch of projects. That being said, if I'm not mistaken epoxy mica powder can also be used as a stain pigment in a much wider variety of colours. Its worth a look see, maybe. Keep these vids coming.
Thanks for the info!
Cheers!
Very nice! I've been missing the shou sugi bahn videos. Informative and entertaining as always!
Thanks, Mike!
Clinkies!
I have used boiled linseed oil and many of my outdoor projects (wishing wells, planter boxes, raised flower beds) and love it. Love the color it brings out in the wood. I have a length of sucker rod that I drap my rags over to let them dry outside of my shop and have never had an issue with them bursting into flames. Also, I got the restorer for Christmas also but Sunday was the 1st time that I uad to be able to use it. I was stripping a twin bed down and the restorer was awesome. But like you said, wear a mask because that bad boy kicks up a dust cloud and makes a mess but gets the job done quickly. That was my very 1st time to do something in the shop since early December and I loved being out there, eventhough my weak body paid the price for it later that night. Good video and thanks for showing the different oil types.
Always a good day in the shop!
Cheers, John
Have you tried thinning a 2 part epoxy with xylene and used an auto spray can? The finish is amazing and is almost bullet proof! Your wood dyes can be mixed in as well. Great vids. Watch em as often as I can
@@colinrobinson1774 I will have to give that a try this spring...
@@colinrobinson1774 can you explain a little more in detail about your process with this. I wanted to do a two component epoxy on my project but it’s seriously daunting to a beginner with all of this,
@@colinrobinson1774 Do you have any videos or other means of instruction you could direct me toward regarding this method? I’m very interested 🙏
Great video.
Would you do a follow up video to show how each finish does over some period of time (weeks, months?). Cheers
Great idea!
Ok thanks for your help this weekend.... I ended up burning again and then I also did a good wipe down with mineral spirits. It absolutely helped with the stain I didn’t like. Definitely did the trick.
I then was able to thin down the Tung oil with just a little mineral spirits. It definitely helped with the oil soak in and actually dry. I had put on two coats of Tung oil and it was not drying. I think I had a lot larger ridges from the hand brushing technique. This is why the oil was not drying it was pooling in areas. So I feel like you should definitely this out the oil. Unless you have sanded your final project. I also want to say the Tung oil bro gas out the color contrast so freaking amazingly. It made the project a 10 out of 10.... I’m very proud of my table and I have told everyone and shown so many pictures you would think I had a baby this weekend 😏
Had a baby....LOL crack me up.
Glad you're project turned out awesome!
Clinkies
100% pure tung oil is awesome but for fast drying, you do need to cut it with an aromatic. I use it on cutting boards and there I do not want any "chemicals" so I just apply sparingly and bake dry in the oven
HEY! THAT CUP! I have the exact one that I won from Copenhagen! But without the sticker..nice video! Helped alot! Thank you
Next can you try some 10w-30? I think you definitely should have included it in your comparisons.
That and baby oil...
@@BuildDadBuild freshly squeezed
I'm excited for this video. I've been researching this stuff and haven't been able to get a solid answer. Great stuff
Glad it was helpful!
Cheers
I’m confused, the suggestion is that the burning all but eliminates the need for treatment yet people are applying oils and coatings that will evaporate or crack or attract dust grime etc effectively returning us to a painting/oiling coating cycle the technique promises to eliminate?
Most traditional Shou Sugi Ban (Yakisugi) is finished with oil.👍
Cheers
Yea i feel the same.... I burn the wood then just use a wet rag and wipe the char away and leave it at that.... It looks absolutely incredible.
I see lots of people sanding and scraping off the "protective" layer so youre back down to the raw wood.... It looks nice and if thats what you like great.... But to me its like doing a lot of work for nothing.
@@jerrodbates8480 but then when you handle it isn't it like handling charcoal?
@@mizukamendoza7250
No i wet a rag and work all the char off... You can see it all coming off and the water is black... Then you see the color come out and its crazy. You have to work it a little bit at a time cuz it mucks the rag up quick but i think its worth it.
Thanks for the awesome , Nick! That’s a great video! Appreciate the share. Clinkies!!
Sure thing, brother!
Clinkies!
I want to do burnt wood on my business sign that we are building. So two questions. After burning what is the best thing to use to clear coat it ? Second question if I do a light stain after I burn it do I need to do a clear coat over the stain? I know nothing about wood so have no clue what is the best clear to put on it
you can seal it with any type of top coat you like.
I am thinking of doing an entire 100-year-old tongue and groove wall, any recommendations?
have fun....
@@BuildDadBuild do you see any issues working on an existing wall?
Boiled Linseed Oil gets a bad rap for remaining sticky. I use it for guitar necks and have never had an issue with stickiness. I mix my BLO 50/50 with lacquer thinner and wipe on thin coats. After it's set 10-15 minutes I wipe off any excess. It dries nice and smooth.
I've used it on several occasions and never had any stickiness issues. I wonder if folks aren't wiping off the excess?
Cheers
Exterior applications?
Yes, exterior applications.
And yes. The directions say the stickiness comes from not wiping off the excess.
I built an outdoor lantern tower. I’d like to use the shou Sugi ban method. What sealer should I use for outdoor application?
Something that is UV resistant. Total Boat Halcyon is my go to.
Valvoline 30 wt test?😶🌫Wood be curious to see!
I've really enjoyed your videos -- super helpful and they keep me engaged! Quick question: I'm making a interior door with charred pine. If I want to char to a deep gator finish -- what's the best way to seal that finish without losing the gator effect? I assume once it's burnt to a gator, I don't brush it or sand it. How should I best remove the dust and then seal it so it looks awesome? Thanks!
You can use an oil to “seal it” or spray finish or even epoxy. 👍🏻👍🏻
What color is replacing gray?
Doing this to a guitar body so this helped alot ! Thanks
Glad it helped!
Cheers!
Thanks for the video!! I’ve got one question. What would be the best sealer for an outdoor project?
I usually use an outdoor rated poly or Halcyon by Total Boat
Will that restorer tool take stain off of old paneling wood? Trying to get varnish off of old dark paneling to restore & reseal.
Absolutely
So glad found your videos. What is cheapest/best oil if I'm doing this to some support beams under my porch which won't show so don't care about cosmetics. Also, re: the boiled linseed oil - does that make the wood more flammable?
BLO probably your best bet. And it does NOT make the wood more flammable.
Cheers
Even the rags aren’t more flammable once they’re dry.
Do you have to touch up the wax ?? What is the wax for ? Protection ?? Looks ???
Mainly another layer of protection. But looks good too.
You do need to touch up wax....like with cutting boards, etc. It depends on usage on how often
Cheers!
Next, it would be nice to see this experiment on Yakisugi
You shouldn't have said: go with the cheapest oil! Now I'm going to use old engine oil. Lol. I thought boiled Linseed oil was the best? But you really can't tell the difference. Top video, I've subbed and liked. Cheers from Australia 🙂👍👍👍
Thank you!
Cheers, Dragan!
Amazing channel! Hugs from Brazil!
Thanks, brother!
Cheers
Do you think this technique is feasible for and outdoors table, such as a grill cart?
Absolutely. Shou Sugi Ban and oil finishes were meant for the outdoors!
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild awesome thanks for the reply!
Nice one Nick, everyday is a school day!
Exactly right...
Cheers
Should you use another kid of wood? Locust or oak? what about pressure treated? Thanks
Never never never burn pressure treated. Never.
I am all new to this and I was wondering if the wax waterproofs the wood. Love your videos!
Yes. To a degree. So does oil.
@@BuildDadBuild Thank you so much!!
I have cypress siding. Impossible to maintain. Can I burn it on the house?????
I guess you could. But be extremely careful.
@@BuildDadBuild lol. Have you heard I f anyone doingbit?
@@lolawalsh9187 On the house? No.
Thanks for video. Question: I want to torch my tongue & groove pine porch boards for my front porch. After doing that, if I want a color stained or painted finish what do I need? Do I need to put anything on boards before the stain? Or do I have to just torch bottom and not top to do that?
You can stain them after you brush them
Fantastic comparison video!👏👍👌🙌🤠💪
Thanks, brother!
Cheers
Thanks for all you do my got my torch and my wood and gonna put some stank on a garden tool holder I’m making! Question? I’m going to cut curves using my jigsaw for slots for shovels and such, should I burn after I cut the curves or before I burn? Doesn’t it matter for warping??
Thanks!
You can cut your curves before you burn. Just make the cuts a little less severe as the torch will round the edges.
Cheers and good luck!
@@BuildDadBuild thanks for the quick response!
I put down wood floor (Hemlock) on the back porch of my workshop I'm going to burn it , what would be the recommended oil , I want something that will penetrate, as appears to laying on top , will the burning prevent the oil from penetrating?
As opposed to laying on top that was
No. The oil will still penetrate. But I'd look at something more durable.
I've just found your channel just about to go through all your burning videos. Am just starting out myself doing live edge work cutting boards and going look at this kinda style aswell. I use danish oil to finish allot my work. I use the brand colron it offers natural danish and man it looks brilliant 👍🏴
I love your videos and have a chance to try this shou sugi bahn on a couple of dog houses that I am going to build for a customer.
My question would be, if I was to dye the wood and use any these oils, will any of these harm the dogs?
Thank you so much for your help.
Keep up the great work!!
I would stick with an all natural oil like BLO
@@BuildDadBuild Thank you!
I just beamed up an made it so. To your channel. Awesome content bro 👍🖖
Thanks homie!
Glad this came out, now i can feel better about only buying boiled linseed oil cause its cheap😁 great video nick
Cheers, brother!
I applied teak oil to my charred boards which have fully dried over a week. Now I'm thinking of applying Defy extreme wood stain on them which I already have to make them more waterproof. I'm confused if the oil alone provides ultimate waterproofing which is why I'm thinking of doing that since these boards will be exposed to weather. What do you think/recommend?
The charring should make them quite waterproof on their own. The oil will increase that. Just make sure to reapply oil as needed.
Hey BDB. I wanna add a color to linseed oil is this possible? if not, could i use Rit dye or kool aid first followed by linseeds oil? Would this work. Though i think the Rit dye and kool aid is water base . What would you recommend. Note, i'd like to use linseed oil since i have a bunch. thanks.
Try it! Not sure if it’ll work or not. But give it a shot!
Nick, one part u miss completely. If you use the oiled wood for outdoor.
Several (like 5+) layers of TUNG oil suppose to survive 1-2 winters
ainy seasons.
BUT....5 layers of LINDSEED oil will absolutely NOT last 2 years with-out re-applying needed.
Hey Daniel!
Good to know!
Cheers, brother.
To preserve the wood for a much longer period of time utilizing linseed oil (possibly others) is to apply it liberally after burning the wood then burn the oil into the wood again. This will thin the oil and let it soak into the exposed pores of the wood helping to internally saturate and seal the wood for years of outdoor use.
Beekeepers actually boil their wood bee boxes in oil or wax to preserve it for a lifetime.
Ok dumb question. Can i use any of these oils plus the wax technique for a dining room table?
Not a dumb question. And yes you can.
Cheers!
Need advice..I have a project not sure of wood type, maybe basswood or poplar. I am going for a burnt wood with green color tint and high gloss (glass) finish.
At what point do I burn the wood? before I put on a teak oil or after. I am using the teak oil only to strengthen the wood.
Always burn first and add oil second.
Cheers!
👍
I know shou shui ban is best used on soft woods. And softwood isn’t best for cutting boards. But I want to make one lol.
What’s your opinion/advise on making a shou shui ban cutting board. I was kinda thinking one route would make the cutting board slightly smaller than I’d want. Then encase it in clear epoxy
I'd be worried about the texture with cutting and food bits.
A charcuterie board might be a better route.
Cheers
Here in the UK 🇬🇧 its mostly clear its harder to find walnut colour finish?
Interesting....
Great info
Thanks, Christopher!
Cheers
We are able to get a Watco Danish oil in "Natural" color here in PA.
Good to know!
Thanks, Jack.
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild if you're interested in what the color looks like, here is a link to an osage orange coffee table I made and finished with the natural Watco Danish Oil. instagram.com/p/CEh92nLDxOf/?igshid=172k9c5ni9wqa. It's available on Amazon.
Just getting in to this technique. Love your videos !! Very informative, honest and hilarious !! That’s for sharing your knowledge in Joe Six Pack terminology 😂
Thanks again….
DKV
Hey man, your videos are great! The work you make looks obscenely good. I should start drinking too when I am working. But the rotating metal disks of death scare the shit out of me. I guess they think about those color variations to apply on fresh pine or common white looking wood like that. Even then maybe you cant really spot much of a difference. It's just the wet look that always comes on and those color gradations are not noticeable at all over charred wood. have a question for you. about the cupping... I am doing six big mirror wooden frames for bathroom vanities. I want to apply this technique. Should I char the frame pieces first then miter them and assembly the frame with glue or can I char the assembled piece?
You might want to try and burn first. When you're using thinner stock it's not a bad idea to start with a wider piece, burn and then cut your smaller stock out of that. Or if you want to burn it assembled you might want to consider using some metal reinforcement before you burn.
Cheers!
@@BuildDadBuild good idea. thank you very much and salutations from Portugal.
Gotta love the wax! Oh and the whiskey
I've been following you for a while, and when I torch kiln dried cedar and brush off the char, it just doesn't come out as light (between the dark grain)...it always come out dark brown. Maybe I'm not brushing deep enough?
That would be my first guess. I'd say that brushing the wood is an art form in itself. Getting the right pressure to remove enough, but not too much takes some time.
Cheers!
Nick
Nick, Watch makes a Natural oil ( no stain) that i have used. Menards usually has it if you have one in Houston area. Keep up the GREAT work!
Thanks, brother!
Could I use osmo polyx wax/oil on the burnt wood?
Sure.
Is it possible to use polyurethane??
Yes
Hey Nick, what is the brand of the wax you are using ?
Hey, Cote!
Here you go:
Voeltner Wood Preserver
tinyurl.com/1nir7lia
www.voeltnerwoodworking.com/s...
Cheers
Teak oil is awesome for outdoor furniture super easy to apply anyone could do it
Love the stuff.
good video tks
Good stuff!
👍👍👍👍👍👍
I've really been into doing wood finishes and came across this channel by chance. Have you tried doing this technique on gun stocks or any other types of gun furniture?
Not yet. Plenty of requests though.
Stay tuned.
Cheers!
@@BuildDadBuild Giggling you already burn shit up why not shoot it too!!!
Just curious if you’ve tried Walrus Oil. I did with a cutting board. It was.... nice!
Sure have!
ruclips.net/video/4LdLeblAgPw/видео.html
Cheers
If you're doing yakisugi, you should try tsubaki (camellia) oil. If not just because I was thinking of using it for something, but can't find any videos except in Japanese where its used for wood.
LOL
@@BuildDadBuild People love it for upkeeping carbon steel tools, but I swear I've seen a video of someone putting it on some old furniture...I just don't know if thats a thing or not. Aside from reading about shou sugi ban and urushi lacquer, Google is hard failing me, lol.
Have used Boiled linseed oil for kitchen islands 👍
Noice!
Well now I'm wondering if oil plus wax will give a good protection for outside use ? I just finished to build an island made of cedars for the patio, but I am now at vanishing or oil plus wax ( I did burn it to a medium level )
Does anyone has the answer ??
( British Columbia, Salmon arm Canada ( winter and hight humidity level)
You can use wax over oil outside, you just need to maintain it.
Cheers
My two cents on Danish Oil...It's basically a mixture of BLO, Mineral Spirits, and Polyurethane, right? So if you think shampoo and conditioner combined or Polyshades is a counterintuitive or lazy or just plain bad idea, why use Danish Oil?
I just mix BLO and mineral spirits to get the oil thinned to soak deeper. Do a couple coats, let it cure, then finish with a poly/mineral spirit mixture (don't waste your money on rubbing poly kids, make your own!) That's also "clear" in the context of this video.
Good advice!
Cheers
Thompson's Clear Water Seal.... Maybe a fun experiment???
Love ya vids dude 🤙about to do my bathroom with your technique will hang some pics and vids soon
Awesome!
And good luck!
Cheers
Watch does make a Natural /Clear Toungue Oil.
Good to know!
Omg u have me in Giggles the whole time, needless to say u dont bore me! N since i have the attention span of a 2yr old thats fantastical!
LOL Glad I could be of assistance!
Cheers
Honey that doesn't crust up when it dries is not honey. Or it might be a tiny bit of honey mixed with high fructose corn syrup (in the US).
Tung oil that smells chemically- is not Tung oil, well maybe 5% is. Lots of stuff is added to tung unless it says pure tung oil. Pure tung takes a long time to dry.
👍
Great video. I used to do a deep burn up until I got alligator skin on the surface, and then brush away the char. But then I did a light burn that required no brushing, and the results are just as good. To me, it's not worth all the extra work. Do a light burn and the seal the wood with your favorite oil/finish. BLO is inexpensive (buy a gallon), and it looks as good as any other finish.
I'd love to see you test several different paste waxes and see if they are as similar as the oils you tested in this video. We could end up saving a lot of money if we can get as good or better results with the least expensive oils and waxes.
Not a bad idea...
Cheers
instablaster...
Danish oil comes in clear, as standard in the UK.
I enjoy working with hard wood!😉
But the PRIMARY purpose of oil is still for strippers and wrestling matches, right?
Of course!
Clinkies!
This guy. It’s like hanging out with your uncle that teaches cool crap. Not bossy and with slightly dirty commentary. …..Subscribe.
Hey John!
You get it. That's exactly how it's supposed to feel.
Welcome to the Fray.
Cheers
Awesome, can we seal with lacquer since the wood is for external use or oil alone is enough?! Thanks 🙏
Technically oil is good enough. But it has to be re-applied. Also if you stain or color the wood, it will fade in the sun. I usually recommend some sort of UV resistant topcoat if it's going to be in full son.
Damn, I thought it was Willie Nelson? But, a great video. Thank you.
Thanks, Terry!
Cheers
Remember Hank Shrader form Breaking Bad? This guy feels very similar :D
To save money, buy the candy called Warheads, and make your own tongue oil, just a pro tip 🤘😝🤘
I have so many questions, least of which is why am I a dumbass if I don’t wear gloves?!😂🤣😂🤣
It’s a running joke in my videos. Stick around and you’ll see. 👍🏻👍🏻
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild haha! That’s awesome man! I’ve seen a bunch of your videos and think you’re a blast and put out some super informative stuff! Keep up the great work!!!
For my office shelves I used 2x6 boards with just wipe on poly ... they look amazing, great texture but no shine. I’d like to try oil on another project though. Stay cool and drink up.
Will do!
Clinkies!
Thumbs up within 8 seconds!!!
LOL! Awesome
Real 100% tung oil is lighter than boiled linseed and it is also food safe great for cutting boards costly but ...
Thanks for the info, brother!
Cheers
yeah, I'm pretty sure all the stuff he used is basically the same product with different names on the can.
Dropping knowledge today! I'm not even gonna mention anything about oiling your wood... or waxing your wood....or buffing your wood....WOOD!!! 🤘🏼🔥🤘🏼
Bwhahahahaha
Cheers, Val!
There is a natural danish oil
Linseed oil is tacky and collects dust more just saying. Teak is my fav. Old carpenters trick 2 gal bucket 1 qt teak oil to 1 qt rub on poly to 1 qt. denatured alcohol. Make sure you mix or shake it up about once week.
Good to know!
Thanks, Jeff!
Watch does make a natural danish oil I buy on amazon. Watco 242219 Danish Oil Wood Finish, Low VOC, Pint, Natural
Good to know.
Thanks!
You had me at "strippers".
Welcome! LOL
Cheers
I can help with divorce tips. Plywood burn looks great
Try Olive Oil
👍
Comment for the algorithm
Thanks brother!
Cheers
Хорошее масло но дорогое, есть аналоги неплохие, как нибудь на своём канале покажу
They're not really that expensive here.
The Makita wheel is an investment at $450-$699. The Restorer is a “If it works, great, if not, no big deal” buy at $129. Also, except for light jobs, The Restorer is shit.
The Restorer works awesome. Sounds like someone is a brand whore.