I have a few ideas for you and obviously you've learned that the gear ratio is hard to achieve with the two cycle engine requiring a jackshaft and tensioner pulley witch all consume their fraction of the power which is marginal to begin with my ideal suggestion is to get a six horsepower snowblower engine that has a gearbox 6 to 1 on the engine, you will have to modify the bike frame but Mount the engine on a slide plate or a hinge plate to clutch a belt, you won't need a jackshaft because the output from the engine gearbox is only about 500 RPM, you can make your own pulley for the rear out of plywood cut out two big circles champfer them on the edge so when they're put together it makes a pulley you can glue and screw them together cut out the center and mount it to the spokes the punch line here is no need for idlers belts run smooth and extra power on the engine lets it take off without without a stumble with good high speed.
I did this sort of thing in the early /mid 70s using chainsaw engines, I learned about tuned expansion chamber two stroke exhaust systems, and my high school shop teacher Mr. Vanspange, helped me make several tuned pipes with amazing results,
I've watched a couple of your videos and i can surely say. Its a shame your videos aren't more popular, you're on some million subscriber type of videos, i honestly hope you get the attention you deserve on this platform. Cheers.
If you manage to somehow retrofit an exhaust pipe from a moped you'd get a more interesting power curve out of the engine. Look up the theory behind expansion chambers for 2 stroke engines, it's all about fluid dynamics, pressure waves going back and forth to both pull air/fuel mixture through the carburetor into the engine as well as pushing back air/fuel from the exhaust pipe into the engine. Along with a larger pulley you'd get a pretty nutty motorized bicycle!
Yeah, I looked into the 2 stroke expansion chambers a while back and it was rather complicated - If I come across a cheap exhaust on marketplace maybe i'll test it out, thanks!
I'm so happy you are back...we miss you when you dont post videos..I've been a subscriber and a fan of yours for several years....5 or 6 years....thanks for this build....it's awesome.
Thanks for serving bro., Respect! Glad you are doing ok & still have your creative juices (& humor😂) still flowing. Love the plasma table & finger break! I want my own (& a lathe & milling machine while I'm dreaming, right 🙂?) God Bless you Sir !
This was an awesome build, and use of an old bike and old chainsaw. I thought it a cool style choice to leave the bucking bar attached. Lol. Also enjoyed the innuendo comedy along the way. 👍🏼
amazing that the chain saw still works more then 5 years past the manufacturer date, used a lot? but that 4 bolt wheel sprocket adapter looks like it could be a very high demand item.
Yeah we are at almost 45 years over the MFG date! I bought this saw about 3 months ago so I don't know its history. 3D printed adapter still going strong!
I bought a defective bag type 1kw generator. When I realized that the electricity-producing part was faulty and the engine part worked with a little cleaning, I mounted it on the back of a 26-inch medium-sized bicycle. I replaced the rear wheel with a 16 inch wheel to increase torque. and I bought a pulley the same size as the rim and attached this pulley to the rim. Now it takes me up hills with ease (I weigh 70 kilos).
Very cool, sounds like a fun project. Did the generator have a tapered shaft? I did something similar with using a kids bicycle rim as a pulley, it worked great with a timing belt.
Have you heard of the Solex? This was a very popular vehicle in the 1960s up till the 1980s, it had a front wheel mounted motor. if you ran out of gas you could pedal to a gas station. it was absolutely an incredible little vehicle
Interesting build, thanks for sharing! Also no opinion on the spring setup on the clutch. I can’t think of advantages and disadvantages of either way. Why no link to the Briggs build? I guess I’ll go hunt for it and stumble upon other videos while searching 🧐
Remember when you messed with the snowmobile exhaust, then it ran badly, I think you'll find that with this wee chainsaw. On the flip side, nows a good time to learn 2 stroke exhaust design .
Haha true - I think I'm getting confused because chainsaws don't have that obvious expansion chamber - To be honest, I couldn't tell the difference in performance of old exhaust vs new, but i'm sure there's got to be.
@OliverMotorized 2 stroke exaust are more for top end and speed with a chainsaw it used bottom end tourq so the expansion chamber was not Needed I feel a expansion chamber will help this motor alot for this application
Always use the clutch pack. The belt is ok for the final drive. If you would have just added a gear to the pedal set and run a chain from ur chainsaw clutch. A spinning wheel so close to the family jewelry is not a great idea. You have a welder redue that top frame rail.
Are you saying to keep the pedals? I’d have to do some crazy gearing bc the drive sprocket is so large. If I kept the pedals then I’d need a one-way ratchet or bearing setup to avoid the pedals spinning at the same time as the engine
I think if you shorten the muffler up and possibly lean down the carbraider a little bit & fixed that gear ratio. That thing will move pretty good. Those old homelights don't rev like the new chainsaws do
I absolutely hate those dang cheap Homelites. But in this case, I have two of those sitting under a bench that I will eventually use for something. I can't remember if they got condensors & points or not. Old ones do. New ones don't. On the exhausts...they do say it supposedly has a purpose on scavenging, but in reality...you are not going to gain a lot from changing anything up. Though to be fair, losing or gaining 1 whole CC from a 25 to 50CC motor does kind of make a difference, and it comes down to backpressure/delay. Basically, it is as follows- usually, saws and such are not exactly "high performance" and nobody cares on the exhaust...it just has to be cheap and work. The form factor of a limb saw does not lend itself to a giant exhaust pipe. Nobody wants a 30CC limb saw with a 16" bar & chain, and a 24" tuned exhaust pipe to cut down a couple trees once a year. Now onto the rest... "...expansion chambers are built to harness sound waves (created in the combustion process) to first suck the cylinder clean of spent gasses--and in the process, drawing fresh air/gas mixture (known as 'charge') into the chamber itself--and then stuff all the charge back into the cylinder, filling it to greater pressures than could be achieved by simply venting the exhaust port into the open atmosphere." You will get lots of claims on the "super powers" of a "tuned exhaust" adding "massive increase!". It's up to you to decide if you want to put the work in on it, Oliver. It's a 2 stroke. The simplest motor in existence. If it's clutching design questions...it's A) whatever works B) whatever you like personally and C) whatever is easily repairable with what you got on hand. If you like it auto-engaging after cam/spring-action, that's fine as long as you always remember it does, and there is going to be at least one time you don't remember that. Going the other way with it just means the same output. The super ancient french bicycles from the early 1900's had all kinds of handles and levers, so...there isn't exactly a "wrong way" of "motor runs wheels turn I go forward in motion". If you get into the old engineering manuals from the late 1800's, you can come across tons of "clutching" or "power transmission" designs, including belt torque converters. "The Engineer's Sketch-Book of Mechanical Movements, Devices, Appliances, Contrivances and Details (employed in the design and construction of machinery for every purpose)" by Tom Barber, 1923 Section 88- Variable Motion and Variable Power ...by spur gear, bevel gear, cam gear, belt gear, belt cones, stepped cone, variable throw crank pin, beam motion, pressure accumulator, Wright's gear, Olmsted friction cone, convex and concave cones...etc. It's got lots of pictures, and every type of clutch design imaginable (along with chains & belts). Personally, I am poking around on manual clutching for 8" and above drive pulleys running belts for racing mowers...I just hate the old style "shove handle engage" or "let foot clutch pop up engage", when you can run with variable face electric friction clutching, or just variable face (smooth) plate-on-plate clutching (at least experimentally on small sized motors like a Briggs). I always like your vids, Oliver. Keep at it. Ain't no wrong way to do it. Just your way of doing it. That's how we ended up with motors & clutches as it is.
Thanks for that comment - lots of great info wow! Interesting I know some mowers use an electronic clutch engage, but it's either on or off, so it's more like dumping the clutch haha. Yeah if I was really bored and had the time, maybe i'd come up with some sort of expansion chamber, but in reality, this saw will probably be put back together soon and back to chopping wood!
@@OliverMotorized Merry Christmas, Oliver. For your gift, I give you: Variable Torque Electronic "Soft" Clutches. It's a design now experimentally in use exactly like current electric clutches, but with a twist... they use iron (or versions) of dust inside a chamber, and when you turn the clutch on, the EM field powers up the dust inside the chamber to stick. Basically, it delays and slows down the "off/on" of it. It "softens" it, aka- Powder Clutch. So it is literally the electromagnetic version of "slipping the clutch". From the wiki: A magnetic particle clutch is a special type of electromagnetic clutch which does not use friction plates. Instead, it uses a fine powder of magnetically susceptible material (typically stainless steel) to mechanically link an otherwise free-wheeling disc attached to one shaft, to a rotor attached to the other shaft. Torque is transmitted mechanically, through a metal powder filling. In the magnetically controlled version, an applied magnetic field is used to lock the particles in place. Now you know why I said keep on keepin' on. That way, you can figure out how to make me one with two corn cobs, and some bailing wire. The AA battery is optional.
Also, don't forget...we ain't even touched 2 Stroke Diesels yet. My man...a world awaits, if you get bored. Just imagine...a 2 stroke diesel on a bicycle! You might yell "TOMFOOLERY!" at that idea... until you realize a current 2 stroke is a diesel motor with a spark plug. (I had this conversation the other day with someone on exactly this.) Diesel = thinned out crude oil, so very oily, runs on compression. Current 2 Stroke = mix gasoline plus + motor oil, runs on spark plug + compression. Except none of that is true for the first internal combustion engine versions. Especially 2 strokes. Example- on very old motor designs (International, etc., let's look at 4 strokes but this applies)...you ran the motor ON GASOLINE until you heated up the cylinders (with spark plugs), then turned off the gasoline, and ran the motor on diesel. The spark plugs still fired (or later, you turned them off). And in the cases of diesel 2 strokes, the RPM's on the tractors was so low (200rpm up to about 1200rpm)...that people forget the pistons, rods and crank were so heavy, a one-cylinder working 4 horse power could run a 2 gang plow. Nowadays, people confuse high RPM's with torque, not a motor twice as heavy, with extremely high torque, low RPMS (like a Lanz Bulldog, Detroits, etc.). Basically...2 strokes were always diesels, when you think about it. Diesel didn't think it was particularly funny to do that with his design...but it worked (in submarines and boats). I personally find the "junk oil motors" from back in the day both fascinating and hilarious, Oliver. You took used motor oil, and just dumped it in the cylinder. They worked fine for decades, but fell out of style for lighter, smaller, higher RPM, lower torque applications. Now to really blow your mind...just think...those didn't even have crankcases, or really much of a head or jug/cylinder. They just flopped around in open air, and you put oil on them once in a while...but had the power to pull a house off the foundation (the old stationaries). The trick was simple...they were super low RPM, massively high torque. In a bicycle? Nowadays? With updated tech? It's meant to make you ponder..."I wonder if?". Because yeah...I been meaning to do that stuff myself at some point when the weather gets better.
Man just come to Illinois and mount my 100cc engine on my trike🤦🏾♂️I’ve been trying since December to go from my electric motor to a gas engine and I did take the route of getting an engine that robs me of my storage basket, it’s just giving me an headache
Another great one - keep 'em coming. Looking past the climate change hoo-ha, micro-motoring saves our world from vehicles weighing more than than their occupants, not to mention how we're tearing into the planet for rare earth... to run our electrics. Motorized bicycles are the future - they're extremely low cost, a bicycle of any kind will force exercise at some point, even if minimal. A breakdown is never too serious with pedal power, and the speeds involved make a safer situation for all - especially if the little buggers are noisy. ...go LOUD and PROUD!!!
Hey so i havent given it a try yet but i got a Yeswelder 135. Read online that its better than the harbor freight 120 plus it has a stick welder function
best chainsaws to use for these are STIHL. for the most part, nearly every single one of them has a crankcase that is completely separate to the oil tank, fuel tank, etc. nice solid mounting lugs that are easy to use, and require no cutting or fooling around with removing excess casting... of course, once that pullstart is removed, you cant run the centrifugal clutch anymore, unless you give it a pulley and some rope to wind around it... i have found a few no-name brands that also have these separate and handy crankcase designs, but for the most part... most chainsaws are really unusable. when it comes to reliable, brand name manufacturers, stihl stands above the rest for this particular feature. besides the fact that stihl makes the best chainsaws of all...
Interesting! I didn’t think STIHL’s would be detached like that. I don’t think this project warrants ruining a perfectly good STIHL though . But I absolutely agree they make the best saws
@@OliverMotorized can get cheap chinese clones ;) my stihl ms170 has been underwater twice, run over, been through ten bars, lost track of chains... bought it back in 2001... still havent had to actually open it up. and the air filter aint great so its sucked down a fair bit of dust too... meh. "extra fuel" :D until it fouls the plug. the tuned pipe was a fun period... putting its big brothers to shame! ppl are like...WTF? its the first thing i look at on any chainsaw, how the engines in there. the little one hand lopping saws are generally one casting though.
Thanks, no I have not adjusted the ratio yet but I plan on it. I don’t think using a weed eater motor is with it - you’d have to gear it down way to much. That said, I have seen it done
Yeah, the sprockets and pulleys I used for this bike were already in my garage from previous projects, so I just went with it. I had a suspicion the gearing would be too high, but oh well
Its a chicago schwinn step through with a 3 speed coaster hub. Could t tell you the model or year but worksmans are 600+ for a similar model to a 60 dollar market place find.
Regarding the belt tension clutch: you want things to fail and become safe. The sprung should disengage. Lil homie really welded heat treated tool steel to mild steel.... Lil bro needs to learn basic metallurgy.
@@OliverMotorized I admire your creativity and resourcefulness, but I have to point out some flaws in your design. First of all, the scale between the sprockets on the chainsaw and the wheel is too small, resulting in a high wheel revolution that limits your torque and acceleration. You should use a larger sprocket on the wheel or a smaller one on the chainsaw to increase the gear ratio and improve your performance. Second, the chainsaw engine is not designed for continuous operation at high speeds, and it will overheat and wear out quickly. You should add a cooling system, such as a fan or a radiator, to prevent thermal damage. Third, the chainsaw engine is very noisy and polluting, and it will attract unwanted attention from the authorities and the environmentalists. You should consider using a muffler or a catalytic converter to reduce the noise and emissions. Fourth, the chainsaw engine is not very reliable or efficient, and it will consume a lot of fuel and oil. You should look for a more suitable engine, such as a small motorcycle or scooter engine, that can deliver more power and economy. Fifth, the chainsaw engine is not very safe, and it poses a risk of fire, explosion, or injury. You should install a kill switch, a brake, and a chain guard to prevent accidents. I hope you don’t take this as criticism, but as constructive feedback from a fellow enthusiast. I have a PhD in mechanical engineering, and I have been working on custom bikes for over a decade. I think you have a lot of potential, and I would love to see your next project. Keep up the good work! 👍
Yeah, I was having issues with too much friction when starting it, so I had to go with a looser belt. This little two-stroke didn't have enough inertia with that little flywheel.
Since this is a 2 stroke engine, you need to have a proper exhaust. A Proper exhaust for a 2 stroke engine is a resonator. When you have the correct exhaust dimensions it will increase your hourse power noticeably. 2 stroke + straight pipe = dog shit. I'm sorry but that's just the reality.
Yeah I figured that was the case, thanks! My question now is, did the OEM muffler do something similar to a resonator? To me, it just looked like a box, but maybe those dimensions were carefully thought out.
Check out a similar vintage bike I did but with an old Briggs: ruclips.net/video/tTcLCTdgbN0/видео.html&ab_channel=OliverMotorized
Repair it (y)
@@LazloNQthanks for that insight, that’s an interesting idea, maybe I’ll try it next time. cheers!
you should put an expansion chamber on that exhaust, it won't run very well without one.
I have a few ideas for you and obviously you've learned that the gear ratio is hard to achieve with the two cycle engine requiring a jackshaft and tensioner pulley witch all consume their fraction of the power which is marginal to begin with my ideal suggestion is to get a six horsepower snowblower engine that has a gearbox 6 to 1 on the engine, you will have to modify the bike frame but Mount the engine on a slide plate or a hinge plate to clutch a belt, you won't need a jackshaft because the output from the engine gearbox is only about 500 RPM, you can make your own pulley for the rear out of plywood cut out two big circles champfer them on the edge so when they're put together it makes a pulley you can glue and screw them together cut out the center and mount it to the spokes the punch line here is no need for idlers belts run smooth and extra power on the engine lets it take off without without a stumble with good high speed.
Good video keep up the good work 💪🏾💪🏾🙏🏾🫡
I did this sort of thing in the early /mid 70s using chainsaw engines, I learned about tuned expansion chamber two stroke exhaust systems, and my high school shop teacher Mr. Vanspange, helped me make several tuned pipes with amazing results,
Very cool! Having a knowledgeable person to help with that kind of stuff is huge
Just man, I miss this... thanks for creating
And thanks for watching
I look forward to seeing some refined versions of this and last couple builds. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Cap!
I've watched a couple of your videos and i can surely say. Its a shame your videos aren't more popular, you're on some million subscriber type of videos, i honestly hope you get the attention you deserve on this platform. Cheers.
Appreciate the comment , thank you 🙏
If you manage to somehow retrofit an exhaust pipe from a moped you'd get a more interesting power curve out of the engine. Look up the theory behind expansion chambers for 2 stroke engines, it's all about fluid dynamics, pressure waves going back and forth to both pull air/fuel mixture through the carburetor into the engine as well as pushing back air/fuel from the exhaust pipe into the engine. Along with a larger pulley you'd get a pretty nutty motorized bicycle!
Yeah, I looked into the 2 stroke expansion chambers a while back and it was rather complicated - If I come across a cheap exhaust on marketplace maybe i'll test it out, thanks!
@@OliverMotorizedcheap exhausts on marketplace are 100cc go kart exhausts I’m excited for the next part of your video
I enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing it brother. Such a fun hobby.
I'm so happy you are back...we miss you when you dont post videos..I've been a subscriber and a fan of yours for several years....5 or 6 years....thanks for this build....it's awesome.
I appreciate you watching throughout the years! It’s been fun
Man this is great ! I Realy enjoyed the way you built and filmed this bike !
I have several wrecked bikes and several lawnmowers and i am itching to make something like what you make. Colour me inspired, Sir. Excellent channel.
thanks brother - go for it!
Thanks for serving bro., Respect! Glad you are doing ok & still have your creative juices (& humor😂) still flowing. Love the plasma table & finger break! I want my own (& a lathe & milling machine while I'm dreaming, right 🙂?) God Bless you Sir !
Thanks you! Yes I’d love a mill and a lathe! Just need a bigger garage haha
Absolutely amazing! Thank you so much Oliver and I wish a very happy Christmas!
Sincerely,
Alicia from Sweden
Cheers Alicia, hope you have a great Christmas !
Glad you are back. Merry Christmas.
Happy holidays!
I like it (it looks so vintage) 👍
There goes Oliver on his dang motorized contraption of the week! Neighbors statement as he flies by.
Nice! Perfect! I wanted one like this to go to college and work.
lol everyone would hate you bc of the noise!
@@OliverMotorized I don't think so.
Nice work Oliver! I always really enjoy your videos 👍 Me and my Son definitely enjoyed this project. Thanks for posting!!!
Thanks Mike! glad you enjoyed this one
Awesome to see another father son team that’s awesome me and my son started my channel together very cool. Great hobby
You should make a chainsaw bike that doesnt sacrifice the saw, so you can ride to the woods and cut wood.
wow, this is very cool! I have a 99 Zuma BWS to rebuild and a statton inc kit to build! This is cool.
This was an awesome build, and use of an old bike and old chainsaw. I thought it a cool style choice to leave the bucking bar attached. Lol. Also enjoyed the innuendo comedy along the way. 👍🏼
Thank you very much!
Pretty cool. I realy love the old homelite sxl.
Same here! it's a great saw
safety is over rated leave it be. good to hear from you again. happy holidays.
Thanks Timothy, merry Christmas!
Great project. Love it.
Thank you, Cheers!
Excellent video
Glad you liked it
I like ur video and ur little shop u got going.The bike came out cool., looks fun.😊
I love the blooper’s dangerous but funny 😆, keep up the good work 💪🏾💪🏾🙏🏾🫡
cheers buddy, thanks!
amazing that the chain saw still works more then 5 years past the manufacturer date, used a lot? but that 4 bolt wheel sprocket adapter looks like it could be a very high demand item.
Yeah we are at almost 45 years over the MFG date! I bought this saw about 3 months ago so I don't know its history.
3D printed adapter still going strong!
I bought a defective bag type 1kw generator. When I realized that the electricity-producing part was faulty and the engine part worked with a little cleaning, I mounted it on the back of a 26-inch medium-sized bicycle. I replaced the rear wheel with a 16 inch wheel to increase torque. and I bought a pulley the same size as the rim and attached this pulley to the rim. Now it takes me up hills with ease (I weigh 70 kilos).
Very cool, sounds like a fun project. Did the generator have a tapered shaft? I did something similar with using a kids bicycle rim as a pulley, it worked great with a timing belt.
I love your videos i was really excited when i saw you uploaded keep up the good work
Cheers!
Have you heard of the Solex? This was a very popular vehicle in the 1960s up till the 1980s, it had a front wheel mounted motor. if you ran out of gas you could pedal to a gas station. it was absolutely an incredible little vehicle
You put 'Fun' in disfunctional ;) That looked scary fast so I'd gear it down too.Merry Christmas Oliver and family, plus all the other fans .
Thanks, I agree about the gearing ! Merry Christmas!
That is incredible. With a pre-packaged engine and mounts I'm still nervous going over 35 MPH.
I did 37mph with a rickity frame i welded myself and a 49cc pocket bike engine. lol. She scoots
Amazing ❤
Amazing!
Hey Tucker! Thanks cuz 😃
its always a good day when oliver posts
We used to be a dealer for homelite. Always mount the motor as low as possible
Cool I just bought a 43cc 2 stroke friction drive kit and a dual disc mountain bike for a new project
Nice, good luck on the project
Hello great projekt😊😊😊
Good job
You're Alive 😁👍
Neighbors mower gonna start right up and run great 😃😅
hehe
This was awesome, that chainsaw sounds so damn cool!
Thanks AJ! It sounds great, but it's not the most discrete vehicle haha
Drop the gearing 30%, add an expansion chamber with a silencer on the end - a win,win !👍
So sick brooooooo holy yoooooo
Awesome, i like the fact that you have to petal it up to speed before you fully engage the saw!
That’s the first time I kept the pedals! It is very convenient
you build some funny bikes. I'm sure your neighbors love you...
the exhaust on chainsaws are tuned to keep temps down and not start fires, 2 strokes do like backpressure tho
Interesting build, thanks for sharing! Also no opinion on the spring setup on the clutch. I can’t think of advantages and disadvantages of either way. Why no link to the Briggs build? I guess I’ll go hunt for it and stumble upon other videos while searching 🧐
Love the new videos!
Glad you like them!
You have a new subscriber 👌
Remember when you messed with the snowmobile exhaust, then it ran badly, I think you'll find that with this wee chainsaw. On the flip side, nows a good time to learn 2 stroke exhaust design .
Haha true - I think I'm getting confused because chainsaws don't have that obvious expansion chamber - To be honest, I couldn't tell the difference in performance of old exhaust vs new, but i'm sure there's got to be.
@OliverMotorized 2 stroke exaust are more for top end and speed with a chainsaw it used bottom end tourq so the expansion chamber was not
Needed I feel a expansion chamber will help this motor alot for this application
Fun project
Awesome!
Always use the clutch pack. The belt is ok for the final drive. If you would have just added a gear to the pedal set and run a chain from ur chainsaw clutch. A spinning wheel so close to the family jewelry is not a great idea. You have a welder redue that top frame rail.
Are you saying to keep the pedals? I’d have to do some crazy gearing bc the drive sprocket is so large.
If I kept the pedals then I’d need a one-way ratchet or bearing setup to avoid the pedals spinning at the same time as the engine
That bike will be fine up to 50mph, if you tune the carb and make an expansion chamber it should pull that easy
For some reason youtube did that thing where it unsubscribes me for no reason, just subbed again
weird! well thanks for coming back
Wow
I think you should post more videos. Happy holiday!
I wish I had the time! Happy Holidays!
That aeesome
You could bump start it by pedaling and then popping the clutch!
Cool channel
thank you
Nice !!
I think if you shorten the muffler up and possibly lean down the carbraider a little bit & fixed that gear ratio. That thing will move pretty good. Those old homelights don't rev like the new chainsaws do
I absolutely hate those dang cheap Homelites. But in this case, I have two of those sitting under a bench that I will eventually use for something. I can't remember if they got condensors & points or not. Old ones do. New ones don't. On the exhausts...they do say it supposedly has a purpose on scavenging, but in reality...you are not going to gain a lot from changing anything up. Though to be fair, losing or gaining 1 whole CC from a 25 to 50CC motor does kind of make a difference, and it comes down to backpressure/delay.
Basically, it is as follows- usually, saws and such are not exactly "high performance" and nobody cares on the exhaust...it just has to be cheap and work. The form factor of a limb saw does not lend itself to a giant exhaust pipe. Nobody wants a 30CC limb saw with a 16" bar & chain, and a 24" tuned exhaust pipe to cut down a couple trees once a year. Now onto the rest...
"...expansion chambers are built to harness sound waves (created in the combustion process) to first suck the cylinder clean of spent gasses--and in the process, drawing fresh air/gas mixture (known as 'charge') into the chamber itself--and then stuff all the charge back into the cylinder, filling it to greater pressures than could be achieved by simply venting the exhaust port into the open atmosphere." You will get lots of claims on the "super powers" of a "tuned exhaust" adding "massive increase!". It's up to you to decide if you want to put the work in on it, Oliver. It's a 2 stroke. The simplest motor in existence.
If it's clutching design questions...it's A) whatever works B) whatever you like personally and C) whatever is easily repairable with what you got on hand.
If you like it auto-engaging after cam/spring-action, that's fine as long as you always remember it does, and there is going to be at least one time you don't remember that. Going the other way with it just means the same output. The super ancient french bicycles from the early 1900's had all kinds of handles and levers, so...there isn't exactly a "wrong way" of "motor runs wheels turn I go forward in motion".
If you get into the old engineering manuals from the late 1800's, you can come across tons of "clutching" or "power transmission" designs, including belt torque converters.
"The Engineer's Sketch-Book of Mechanical Movements, Devices, Appliances, Contrivances and Details (employed in the design and construction of machinery for every purpose)"
by Tom Barber, 1923
Section 88- Variable Motion and Variable Power
...by spur gear, bevel gear, cam gear, belt gear, belt cones, stepped cone, variable throw crank pin, beam motion, pressure accumulator, Wright's gear, Olmsted friction cone, convex and concave cones...etc.
It's got lots of pictures, and every type of clutch design imaginable (along with chains & belts). Personally, I am poking around on manual clutching for 8" and above drive pulleys running belts for racing mowers...I just hate the old style "shove handle engage" or "let foot clutch pop up engage", when you can run with variable face electric friction clutching, or just variable face (smooth) plate-on-plate clutching (at least experimentally on small sized motors like a Briggs).
I always like your vids, Oliver.
Keep at it. Ain't no wrong way to do it.
Just your way of doing it. That's how we ended up with motors & clutches as it is.
Thanks for that comment - lots of great info wow! Interesting I know some mowers use an electronic clutch engage, but it's either on or off, so it's more like dumping the clutch haha. Yeah if I was really bored and had the time, maybe i'd come up with some sort of expansion chamber, but in reality, this saw will probably be put back together soon and back to chopping wood!
@@OliverMotorized Merry Christmas, Oliver. For your gift, I give you:
Variable Torque Electronic "Soft" Clutches.
It's a design now experimentally in use exactly like current electric clutches, but with a twist...
they use iron (or versions) of dust inside a chamber, and when you turn the clutch on, the EM field powers up the dust inside the chamber to stick.
Basically, it delays and slows down the "off/on" of it. It "softens" it, aka- Powder Clutch. So it is literally the electromagnetic version of "slipping the clutch".
From the wiki:
A magnetic particle clutch is a special type of electromagnetic clutch which does not use friction plates. Instead, it uses a fine powder of magnetically susceptible material (typically stainless steel) to mechanically link an otherwise free-wheeling disc attached to one shaft, to a rotor attached to the other shaft.
Torque is transmitted mechanically, through a metal powder filling. In the magnetically controlled version, an applied magnetic field is used to lock the particles in place.
Now you know why I said keep on keepin' on. That way, you can figure out how to make me one with two corn cobs, and some bailing wire. The AA battery is optional.
Also, don't forget...we ain't even touched 2 Stroke Diesels yet. My man...a world awaits, if you get bored. Just imagine...a 2 stroke diesel on a bicycle! You might yell "TOMFOOLERY!" at that idea...
until you realize a current 2 stroke is a diesel motor with a spark plug.
(I had this conversation the other day with someone on exactly this.)
Diesel = thinned out crude oil, so very oily, runs on compression.
Current 2 Stroke = mix gasoline plus + motor oil, runs on spark plug + compression.
Except none of that is true for the first internal combustion engine versions.
Especially 2 strokes. Example- on very old motor designs (International, etc., let's look at 4 strokes but this applies)...you ran the motor ON GASOLINE until you heated up the cylinders (with spark plugs), then turned off the gasoline, and ran the motor on diesel. The spark plugs still fired (or later, you turned them off).
And in the cases of diesel 2 strokes, the RPM's on the tractors was so low (200rpm up to about 1200rpm)...that people forget the pistons, rods and crank were so heavy, a one-cylinder working 4 horse power could run a 2 gang plow.
Nowadays, people confuse high RPM's with torque, not a motor twice as heavy, with extremely high torque, low RPMS (like a Lanz Bulldog, Detroits, etc.).
Basically...2 strokes were always diesels, when you think about it. Diesel didn't think it was particularly funny to do that with his design...but it worked (in submarines and boats).
I personally find the "junk oil motors" from back in the day both fascinating and hilarious, Oliver.
You took used motor oil, and just dumped it in the cylinder. They worked fine for decades, but fell out of style for lighter, smaller, higher RPM, lower torque applications.
Now to really blow your mind...just think...those didn't even have crankcases, or really much of a head or jug/cylinder. They just flopped around in open air, and you put oil on them once in a while...but had the power to pull a house off the foundation (the old stationaries).
The trick was simple...they were super low RPM, massively high torque. In a bicycle? Nowadays? With updated tech?
It's meant to make you ponder..."I wonder if?". Because yeah...I been meaning to do that stuff myself at some point when the weather gets better.
Man just come to Illinois and mount my 100cc engine on my trike🤦🏾♂️I’ve been trying since December to go from my electric motor to a gas engine and I did take the route of getting an engine that robs me of my storage basket, it’s just giving me an headache
Another great one - keep 'em coming.
Looking past the climate change hoo-ha, micro-motoring saves our world from vehicles weighing more than than their occupants, not to mention how we're tearing into the planet for rare earth... to run our electrics.
Motorized bicycles are the future - they're extremely low cost, a bicycle of any kind will force exercise at some point, even if minimal. A breakdown is never too serious with pedal power, and the speeds involved make a safer situation for all - especially if the little buggers are noisy. ...go LOUD and PROUD!!!
The world could definitely use more motorized bikes ! Thanks Steven
Hey so i havent given it a try yet but i got a Yeswelder 135. Read online that its better than the harbor freight 120 plus it has a stick welder function
Oh cool! let me know how that thing does
best chainsaws to use for these are STIHL.
for the most part, nearly every single one of them has a crankcase that is completely separate to the oil tank, fuel tank, etc. nice solid mounting lugs that are easy to use, and require no cutting or fooling around with removing excess casting...
of course, once that pullstart is removed, you cant run the centrifugal clutch anymore, unless you give it a pulley and some rope to wind around it...
i have found a few no-name brands that also have these separate and handy crankcase designs, but for the most part... most chainsaws are really unusable. when it comes to reliable, brand name manufacturers, stihl stands above the rest for this particular feature.
besides the fact that stihl makes the best chainsaws of all...
Interesting! I didn’t think STIHL’s would be detached like that. I don’t think this project warrants ruining a perfectly good STIHL though . But I absolutely agree they make the best saws
@@OliverMotorized can get cheap chinese clones ;)
my stihl ms170 has been underwater twice, run over, been through ten bars, lost track of chains... bought it back in 2001... still havent had to actually open it up. and the air filter aint great so its sucked down a fair bit of dust too... meh. "extra fuel" :D until it fouls the plug.
the tuned pipe was a fun period... putting its big brothers to shame! ppl are like...WTF?
its the first thing i look at on any chainsaw, how the engines in there.
the little one hand lopping saws are generally one casting though.
awesome build bro!! love your channel please stick around!
Farout!
Did a great job from my point of view. Did u adjust the pulley ratio? And do u think a weed eater motor could have enough torque to use?
Thanks, no I have not adjusted the ratio yet but I plan on it. I don’t think using a weed eater motor is with it - you’d have to gear it down way to much. That said, I have seen it done
Dont use a jack shaft. Run to ur pedal gear set. Use the inside gear.
youre so funny 😁
Did you just use what you had to determine the gear ratio?
Yeah, the sprockets and pulleys I used for this bike were already in my garage from previous projects, so I just went with it. I had a suspicion the gearing would be too high, but oh well
You are my mentor that my I add motorized to my RUclips name 😊😊😊😊
haha thank you!
Please fully grind and clean the metal before welding.
Is that a Worksman Newsgirl bike?
Its a chicago schwinn step through with a 3 speed coaster hub. Could t tell you the model or year but worksmans are 600+ for a similar model to a 60 dollar market place find.
U tryin to send a fellow motorized bicycle ride a chain break I need one lol and I'm broke
lol do you have a hammer and a grinder?
@@OliverMotorized yea thats what ivebeen doing it just sucks on nicer 415 chain
Regarding the belt tension clutch: you want things to fail and become safe. The sprung should disengage. Lil homie really welded heat treated tool steel to mild steel.... Lil bro needs to learn basic metallurgy.
Good point on the fail safely bit! I'm not sure what your concerns about welding the two types of steel are though
Did you consider a friction drive in this design
Happy Holidays!
@@OliverMotorized I admire your creativity and resourcefulness, but I have to point out some flaws in your design. First of all, the scale between the sprockets on the chainsaw and the wheel is too small, resulting in a high wheel revolution that limits your torque and acceleration. You should use a larger sprocket on the wheel or a smaller one on the chainsaw to increase the gear ratio and improve your performance. Second, the chainsaw engine is not designed for continuous operation at high speeds, and it will overheat and wear out quickly. You should add a cooling system, such as a fan or a radiator, to prevent thermal damage. Third, the chainsaw engine is very noisy and polluting, and it will attract unwanted attention from the authorities and the environmentalists. You should consider using a muffler or a catalytic converter to reduce the noise and emissions. Fourth, the chainsaw engine is not very reliable or efficient, and it will consume a lot of fuel and oil. You should look for a more suitable engine, such as a small motorcycle or scooter engine, that can deliver more power and economy. Fifth, the chainsaw engine is not very safe, and it poses a risk of fire, explosion, or injury. You should install a kill switch, a brake, and a chain guard to prevent accidents.
I hope you don’t take this as criticism, but as constructive feedback from a fellow enthusiast. I have a PhD in mechanical engineering, and I have been working on custom bikes for over a decade. I think you have a lot of potential, and I would love to see your next project. Keep up the good work! 👍
Weld a pulley on to the centrifical clutch
I didn't want to destroy the original components of the saw
call me a turbine because I am a big fan
lol thanks for being a turbine 🤠
I would of used a chainsaw clutch of a centrical clutch on it
I was tempted, but I didn't want to mess with the original clutch.
@@OliverMotorized I. Hear that but that was a nice build
Where can you year codes at
I forget the exact site, but I found a link on a chainsaw forum!
Clean your metal bud, that's why your welds are all goobered...
I know, but I just get lazy sometimes haha
Saaaaammee
@@OliverMotorized
Looks like the belt is too loose
Yeah, I was having issues with too much friction when starting it, so I had to go with a looser belt. This little two-stroke didn't have enough inertia with that little flywheel.
Since this is a 2 stroke engine, you need to have a proper exhaust. A Proper exhaust for a 2 stroke engine is a resonator. When you have the correct exhaust dimensions it will increase your hourse power noticeably. 2 stroke + straight pipe = dog shit. I'm sorry but that's just the reality.
Yeah I figured that was the case, thanks! My question now is, did the OEM muffler do something similar to a resonator? To me, it just looked like a box, but maybe those dimensions were carefully thought out.
3:55 😃
Saw exhausts aren't tuned, it needs cones to be tuned, you could make a tuned exhaust and probably double the power.
Double the power! The that would be awesome