Super helpful! I had a lot of trouble flying my Cinelog20 and ended up crashing it a bit more than was healthy so I'm needing to pretty much rebuild it from scratch! This video is a gold mine for that process!
Thanks for this totu. Very good explanation. Unfortunately, it didn't work so well for me. When loading the CLI settings, I got a few errors. The CLI is for version 4.5.0 and this is the version I have in the fc. I tried to refresh the firmware, but this caused a lot more errors loading the CLI. I tried with version 4.5.1 but same result. The FC I'm using is the GEPRC TAKER G4 35A AIO. The CLI data I used is "Cinelog 20 HD SBUS 4.5.0" since I want to use the DJI remote.
Yeah, your FC is much newer, totally different, which means you have to manually configure everything. A CLI copy paste will work only if it’s the same model in the same firmware version.
No. Not q good idea. You don’t have many UART in this drone, the space is also restricted and the weight will affect your flying time quite some. And why would you want a GPS in such a small drone? You won’t be flying too far with it.
@@sergi19fpv I think the general consensus for these types of drones is that you shouldn’t fly them high. And being so small it is better suited for indoors
Hi. Thanks! Unfortunately I actually think it’s. More expensive to DYI than buying the BNF. Difficult to understand why, but that’s the way if you buy exactly the same parts.
Thanks. Most probably you have a different version of beta flight than the version used to create the CLI. Look at the top of the CLI and you will see the version. Install exactly the same on your AIO and then apply the CLI. It should work without errors.
Hey great video 💪 are your engines running backwards? If so, how do you arrange the propellers? My cinelog is ready, it runs smoothly but just doesn't want to take off.
Hi. And thanks for you have most probably set your props backwards. It’s really easy for that to happen since you build the drone upside down. Check you motor order, your motor direction, and the props with the drone in the flying position.
@@littletree47 A lot of things weren't right for me. I had the propellers wrong. An engine was running in the wrong direction, the rpm filter and the rates were not right. I am now so far that the whoopy flies, but when I accelerate quickly, it vibrates strongly. So I'm not at my destination yet..
Hey Chris. I thought like you, maybe because the diagram from GEPRC seems to say that. But then I checked all the pictures of this drone on the internet, and I called a few customer who has bought the drone and at least the pictures and the BNF from factory are agreeing with what I said: frame, prop guard and motor. If you sandwich the prop guard, doesn’t the space between the props and the prop guard becomes too little?
The AIO in this drone has only 2 real UART and one serial UART. That complicated things if you have an O3 and a RX as crossfire or ELRS, in which case you end up using the serial port for GPS and that’s normally not a very good idea. One option is to move the O3 to the serial UART but then you lose the harness and many has said is not a good idea to have a VTX in a serial port. If you are using the DJI radio then you have a free IART and you can connect a GPS.
I know right? But if you look at their drones made from factory is not like that. And if you look at the pictures in their website is not like that. I’m assuming the schematic is wrong and we may see an updated version at any time with a new batch.
@@NordFPV strange.. I think it is working both ways so why to use this carbon spacer ? maybe it is holding the prop guard better. Does the motor or prop needs more space from the guard?
@@NaorFPV From looking at my drone, if you don't have the spacer, and specially prop guar-spacer-motor, the cable of the motor will be pushed up and actually collide with the motor bell. This doesn't happen in all 4 motors, just in 2, but I'm guessing that is at least one reason for the spacers.
can i ask you a question? i recently bought the cinelog20 to move kit from pavo20, however, i thought my 1408 9mm motors will fit the frame, however the frame i got , seems like the mounting holes are not for the 9mm? how is that possible, ? yet my original pavo20 8.5mm screws and motors fit perfectly? did you have the same problem? if so, how did you overcome?
No. I didn’t have that problem with my build. I use exactly the same parts as the BNF. Mounting patterns is important to check before buying motors/frame.
Thank you for this video!! I built the same drones, i only changed the FC mounting the Geprc F7. Same weight of the original one. I got some Vibrations on the o3 Cam. Do you know what could it be? Pid tuning? I left the defaults pid.
Hello. Yes. Probably PID running. Download the original tuning and try to read it from the file and doing the changes manually. Otherwise find a PID tuning video and try it out.
Hi. Which TPU part? I have everything I design in my printables profile. Just search for Nordfpv at printables.com. But if it’s a part that GEPRC sells, you may have to search for equivalents.
Thank you for this beautiful video. I bought everything but i took the GEP F722 45A F7 AIO instead of the GEP F411 35A AIO. Same size, same weight and same Mount Holes: 25.5×25.5mm. I did a mistake. Is it going to work anyway? and in any case all two FC are not like the one you used in the video, they have a different orientation, 45 degrees. How can i do with this problem? I hope you can help me.
Hey Joel. Any FC may work. The problem you are going to face are: -you need to study the layout to see where you are going to connect what -the CLI from GEPRC page is not going to work for you, which means you are going to have to configure everything manually. Connecting everything should be pretty straightforward, configuring may be more challenging depending on your experience
If you are not comfortable doing your own CLI, I’ll recommend you to downgrade betaflight to 4.3. If you want to use 4.4 then you have to configure everything by yourself and you need to know what are you doing.
If you bought the PNP version you do t have to do that configuration. It should be already done. You bind both goggles and radio with the DJI VTX and then check your modes. That’s it.
@@NordFPV thanks. The drone works straight out of the box after binding but my sbus is normal in the goggles not sbus fast is I guess I should change that and check the drone is sbus baud =fast too
Is this in GEPRC’s page? Maybe because the building is more complicated? I don’t really know. Normally is more expensive to buy parts than to buy a BNF.
@@jaayfpv13 I think you are talking about the ceramic antenna. There are some ELRS receiver which comes with an "integrated" antenna, which is this ceramic antenna I'm using here. The receiver comes with it, you can't change it. It doesn't give the same range as a regular antenna, but it many cases is very comfprtable.
Hopefully someone can help me. I decided to built my first fpv and i went for the cinelog 20 because of its size. I bought all the components based on tge specs on geprc website however i chose the wrong motor kv. I bought 1303.5 3800kv instead of the 5500kv. And i want to know does kv make a significant difference. Because i like my drone is too heavy. It feels sluggish. I have flown with 550mah and 750mah and i just ordered some 660mah but so far all batteries feel too heavy for the cinelog 20. So i was thinking maybe if i buy the 5500kv motors if that would make a difference in the flight characteristics of the cinelog. Please someone help with this doubt and thank you so much in advance. I'm new to fpv so i have yet to master kv's.
The kv on a motor affect what battery (number of cells) you should use for best performance. 3800kv may behave sluggish with a 4S battery. In theory you should go to a higher cell count but I’m not sure that configuration will let you fly the drone with a 6S? Then of course your PID will also Have to be adapted to what battery you use. As a beginner it may be easier for you to swap the motors than to have to re adapt everything to the ones you have.
Thank you so much for your reply. Love you content! Great informative videos. I even bought the R-line 750mah 4s based on your recommendation for best flight time and performance. Just messed up on the kv but I'll order the right ones this time. New sub. @@NordFPV
I finally got my motors from Ali Express. The correcto ones this time 😎 and boy were you right! The kv does make a world of difference. Now it actually feels lighter and I am super satisfied with my build. Thank you so much for responding to my original comment and for sharing your knowledge.
@@NordFPV It is now a combined support triangle and camera mount. I had an message from Geprc explaining when I said the part was missing from the kit!
I can't belive u didn't edit the video and put at least subtitles when you used wrong spacers for flight controller 😮 now its a pain in the as for me as well 😂😂😂 little subtitles explaining wrong spacers would have been nice and time saving for other 🙏
Bro I hope you sleep well tonight! This video help me so much with it! And got me flying!!!! Thank you!!!
I’m happy to hear that it helped you. Enjoy your flying.
Super helpful! I had a lot of trouble flying my Cinelog20 and ended up crashing it a bit more than was healthy so I'm needing to pretty much rebuild it from scratch! This video is a gold mine for that process!
Excellent. That was the idea. I’m glad it can help!
Thanks for this totu. Very good explanation. Unfortunately, it didn't work so well for me. When loading the CLI settings, I got a few errors. The CLI is for version 4.5.0 and this is the version I have in the fc. I tried to refresh the firmware, but this caused a lot more errors loading the CLI. I tried with version 4.5.1 but same result. The FC I'm using is the GEPRC TAKER G4 35A AIO. The CLI data I used is "Cinelog 20 HD SBUS 4.5.0" since I want to use the DJI remote.
Yeah, your FC is much newer, totally different, which means you have to manually configure everything. A CLI copy paste will work only if it’s the same model in the same firmware version.
Thank you Juan for this video.
It was exactly what I needed.
I really appreciate that you did this video. 🙏
I’m glad I could help! Any questions just find me on messenger or shoot me an email.
Thank you for your time.
My pleasure!
Would it be a good idea to put a GPS module on it, for example a BN-180?
No. Not q good idea. You don’t have many UART in this drone, the space is also restricted and the weight will affect your flying time quite some. And why would you want a GPS in such a small drone? You won’t be flying too far with it.
@@NordFPV It's only to know how high and far am I flying.
@@sergi19fpv I think the general consensus for these types of drones is that you shouldn’t fly them high. And being so small it is better suited for indoors
Very good and precise DYI video, thx. How much do you save in terms of money building it yourself rather than go with the RTF versione?
Hi. Thanks! Unfortunately I actually think it’s. More expensive to DYI than buying the BNF. Difficult to understand why, but that’s the way if you buy exactly the same parts.
Great video here!! Would you happen to know why when I flash mine I get errors in the CLI dump? Post flash I have no baro or gyro. 😅
Thanks. Most probably you have a different version of beta flight than the version used to create the CLI. Look at the top of the CLI and you will see the version. Install exactly the same on your AIO and then apply the CLI. It should work without errors.
Thanks for sharing this wonderful video
Thank you. I’m glad you like it.
Very nice build vídeo mate.
Thanks Clare!
Hey great video 💪 are your engines running backwards? If so, how do you arrange the propellers? My cinelog is ready, it runs smoothly but just doesn't want to take off.
I have other engines and another fc. The cinewhoop is ARMT , but when I step on the gas, it doesn't take off, but the engines get faster
Hi. And thanks for you have most probably set your props backwards. It’s really easy for that to happen since you build the drone upside down.
Check you motor order, your motor direction, and the props with the drone in the flying position.
any luck? I'm having the same problem
@@littletree47 A lot of things weren't right for me. I had the propellers wrong. An engine was running in the wrong direction, the rpm filter and the rates were not right. I am now so far that the whoopy flies, but when I accelerate quickly, it vibrates strongly. So I'm not at my destination yet..
Thanks! This was needed
Not a problem.
Do you think it’s possible to mint the walksnail moonlight kit on it ?
Uhm. An O3 fits. Which in my head means a moonlight should fit. But I haven’t try it
great video but im lookn at the schematic and its frame spacer prop guard motor
Hey Chris. I thought like you, maybe because the diagram from GEPRC seems to say that. But then I checked all the pictures of this drone on the internet, and I called a few customer who has bought the drone and at least the pictures and the BNF from factory are agreeing with what I said: frame, prop guard and motor.
If you sandwich the prop guard, doesn’t the space between the props and the prop guard becomes too little?
Hi there , is there a gps module on this drone for gps rescue ?
The AIO in this drone has only 2 real UART and one serial UART. That complicated things if you have an O3 and a RX as crossfire or ELRS, in which case you end up using the serial port for GPS and that’s normally not a very good idea. One option is to move the O3 to the serial UART but then you lose the harness and many has said is not a good idea to have a VTX in a serial port. If you are using the DJI radio then you have a free IART and you can connect a GPS.
Is building it cheaper than buying the same configuration from GeprC - Cinelog20 with O3
no, unfortunately is not.
in the schematic it looks like, the props guard, after the carbon spacer.
I know right? But if you look at their drones made from factory is not like that. And if you look at the pictures in their website is not like that. I’m assuming the schematic is wrong and we may see an updated version at any time with a new batch.
@@NordFPV strange.. I think it is working both ways so why to use this carbon spacer ? maybe it is holding the prop guard better. Does the motor or prop needs more space from the guard?
@@NaorFPV From looking at my drone, if you don't have the spacer, and specially prop guar-spacer-motor, the cable of the motor will be pushed up and actually collide with the motor bell. This doesn't happen in all 4 motors, just in 2, but I'm guessing that is at least one reason for the spacers.
can i ask you a question? i recently bought the cinelog20 to move kit from pavo20, however, i thought my 1408 9mm motors will fit the frame, however the frame i got , seems like the mounting holes are not for the 9mm? how is that possible, ? yet my original pavo20 8.5mm screws and motors fit perfectly? did you have the same problem? if so, how did you overcome?
No. I didn’t have that problem with my build. I use exactly the same parts as the BNF. Mounting patterns is important to check before buying motors/frame.
Thank you for this video!! I built the same drones, i only changed the FC mounting the Geprc F7. Same weight of the original one. I got some
Vibrations on the o3 Cam. Do you know what could it be? Pid tuning? I left the defaults pid.
Hello. Yes. Probably PID running. Download the original tuning and try to read it from the file and doing the changes manually. Otherwise find a PID tuning video and try it out.
do you know where i can find the stls for that tpu parts? i am looking for the o3 antenna holder. thanks =)
Hi. Which TPU part? I have everything I design in my printables profile. Just search for Nordfpv at printables.com. But if it’s a part that GEPRC sells, you may have to search for equivalents.
Very helpful video!
I'm glad you found it useful! Thanks for watching.
does it come with betaflight 4.4?
Nope. But check GEPRC’s website in case they update the CLI at any point.
Thank you for this beautiful video. I bought everything but i took the GEP F722 45A F7 AIO instead of the GEP F411 35A AIO. Same size, same weight and same Mount Holes: 25.5×25.5mm. I did a mistake. Is it going to work anyway? and in any case all two FC are not like the one you used in the video, they have a different orientation, 45 degrees. How can i do with this problem? I hope you can help me.
Hey Joel. Any FC may work. The problem you are going to face are:
-you need to study the layout to see where you are going to connect what
-the CLI from GEPRC page is not going to work for you, which means you are going to have to configure everything manually.
Connecting everything should be pretty straightforward, configuring may be more challenging depending on your experience
Geprc have 4.3 CLI version but can I past this CLI in 4.4
If you are not comfortable doing your own CLI, I’ll recommend you to downgrade betaflight to 4.3. If you want to use 4.4 then you have to configure everything by yourself and you need to know what are you doing.
@@NordFPV then I put cinelog35 v2 CLI in cinebot30 cinelog35 v2 have new version
What camera angle did you set?
I normally have around 25 degrees
@@NordFPV Thank you for the quick reply 😊
Hi , can I have please FLY CONTROLLER model please?
Thank you
My radio? That’s a TX16S but very customized. You can see in my videos how I customize it.
I bought this specified PNP as I use dji controller, do I need to SET SBUS=ON all will it already by configured?
it flies already
If you bought the PNP version you do t have to do that configuration. It should be already done. You bind both goggles and radio with the DJI VTX and then check your modes. That’s it.
@@NordFPV thanks. The drone works straight out of the box after binding but my sbus is normal in the goggles not sbus fast is I guess I should change that and check the drone is sbus baud =fast too
May I ask, why does cinelog analog version+o3 air unit together are cheaper than cinelog o3 version ?
Is this in GEPRC’s page?
Maybe because the building is more complicated?
I don’t really know. Normally is more expensive to buy parts than to buy a BNF.
what antenna is that for the radio?
Do you mean the ELRS receiver?
No, the small antenna you connect to the ELRS receiver@@NordFPV
and i dont get how to mount the props correctly
@@jaayfpv13 I think you are talking about the ceramic antenna. There are some ELRS receiver which comes with an "integrated" antenna, which is this ceramic antenna I'm using here. The receiver comes with it, you can't change it. It doesn't give the same range as a regular antenna, but it many cases is very comfprtable.
@@jaayfpv13 look at the diagram in betaflight, have your drone in front of you (not upside down), and place the antennas as the diagram shows you.
Which capacitor did you use with the xt30 connector?
In 6S i like to have 1000uf but that’s way too big for this build. So I think I had a 650.
Great video
Thanks David!
Hopefully someone can help me. I decided to built my first fpv and i went for the cinelog 20 because of its size. I bought all the components based on tge specs on geprc website however i chose the wrong motor kv. I bought 1303.5 3800kv instead of the 5500kv. And i want to know does kv make a significant difference. Because i like my drone is too heavy. It feels sluggish. I have flown with 550mah and 750mah and i just ordered some 660mah but so far all batteries feel too heavy for the cinelog 20. So i was thinking maybe if i buy the 5500kv motors if that would make a difference in the flight characteristics of the cinelog. Please someone help with this doubt and thank you so much in advance. I'm new to fpv so i have yet to master kv's.
The kv on a motor affect what battery (number of cells) you should use for best performance. 3800kv may behave sluggish with a 4S battery. In theory you should go to a higher cell count but I’m not sure that configuration will let you fly the drone with a 6S? Then of course your PID will also Have to be adapted to what battery you use. As a beginner it may be easier for you to swap the motors than to have to re adapt everything to the ones you have.
Thank you so much for your reply. Love you content! Great informative videos. I even bought the R-line 750mah 4s based on your recommendation for best flight time and performance. Just messed up on the kv but I'll order the right ones this time. New sub. @@NordFPV
I finally got my motors from Ali Express. The correcto ones this time 😎 and boy were you right! The kv does make a world of difference. Now it actually feels lighter and I am super satisfied with my build. Thank you so much for responding to my original comment and for sharing your knowledge.
I'm glad I could help, and it's great to hear you are in the air and enjoying it! @@jessegarcia4224
I gente cínelog 20 whit express elrs but I have a problem to bind I use zorro whit 2.0 firmware but the quad used reciver like DIY BRAND I CAN’t bind😢
You may have chosen the wrong target for your ELRS receiver. Check the brand and model and reflash it
Nice building you get my sub
Thanks!
Capacitor must be soldered closer the board and has small contacts as small as possible. In your case, this does not work.
I’ve heard this a few times, but at the same time you have many manufacturers still doing it. I don’t know how to prove if it works or not. Do you?
Nice
Thanks Nico
Instead of the camera triangle plate 1.5mm they now supply a 3d printed part
Which plate do you mean?
@@NordFPV The one you show at 8:30
@@NordFPV It is now a combined support triangle and camera mount. I had an message from Geprc explaining when I said the part was missing from the kit!
@@patrickoneill1538 really? I haven’t seen that
Geprc said It's very new (for vibration reduction)- not in the manual yet
It should be easier to install grommets with dental floss like you did in one of your shorts 😁🦷
Do as I say, not as I do? :D
😂
Now put a GPS on it.... please
There are not more real UART in this board. And you could have a gps on a soft UART but that doesn’t work all the time.
It will be a big challenge
I can't belive u didn't edit the video and put at least subtitles when you used wrong spacers for flight controller 😮 now its a pain in the as for me as well 😂😂😂 little subtitles explaining wrong spacers would have been nice and time saving for other 🙏
I’m so sorry! But that’s why I added the BIG disclaimer in the beginning saying “watch the whole thing I made some
Mistakes “ 😂😜
@@NordFPV I must have missed it, I suppose I was to excited to buildl that quad !!! 😅