Excellent video. I stand in absolute awe at man's ability to invent ever increasingly efficient methods of setting cash on fire. That device is at least partially responsible for the inflation of the US dollar in the past 12 years.
And in the end all the shit gets washed off into environment anyways... or more oil and resources are being burnt to make the replacement truck once the DPF kills one...
Great information. I saw plenty of videos on DPF's getting cleaned, but none that clearly showed how to disassemble the pieces. Really helpful that it is explained how to identify the pieces too. Thanks.
excellent video, absolutely no false or incorrect information throughout! I used this same method to clean a DPF filter on a John Deere combine. I used a hot water water pressure washer but also completely submerged the filter in hot water with some commercial grade (restaurant) Cascade dishwasher detergent (the old school stuff that's been outlawed). It worked perfectly...so I have complete confidence in doing this on my pickup. Just sucks you have to cut and re-weld it
I feel like that would make it unreliable and more prone to exhaust leaks especially with the heat you're dealing with in there, not to mention if it's clamped it's more likely to leak when doing a regen which could cause your truck to catch on fire. trust me it's better and much safer to have it welded.
@@ElectronicsForFun The two mating flanges need to be machined flat, and properly engineered, then bolted together prior to welding to insure seal... remember that warping forces exist and joint's propensity to warp in situ must be allowed to express itself via resilient hangers, already present on most trucks and cars made today... When exhaust systems heat up they move , understand that when designing a modification, millage will very based on spacial IQ an d experience !
I have not started this job as of yet but going to. and I will say this is the best video for any kind of help videos involving DPF's that are out there anywhere thank you so much for all the knowledge you have shared herewith all to see. you need to do many more in other areas. Again, Thank You for the knowledge.
Thank you so much man! 2010 F350 same message for me constantly "drive to clean exhaust" and grey smoke intermittently - I know my time is coming soon! Excellent video and narration!
@@mikeylopez9625 Yup, first diesel truck with pollution controls 2013 6.6L 2500HD I love the truck but it took me awhile to wrap my head around how the aftertreatment system is supposed to work and a clone of a Tech2 diagnostic tool is a must. thanks again.
*SUBSCRIBED* your video is great! Thank you for taking the time to share this with everyone, I really appreciate your time and efforts. Thank you again and may God continue blessing you and your family.
Hello Mike. I have tonadd a correction to the video. I worked on a 2014 Duramax cab and chassis today where the SCR was first in the exhaust stream. In the video, I had stated the DOC always comes first.
@@redneckoriental no worries mines is in the exact layout on the video so it was good. It sucks that have to clean both systems including the DPF becuase it is up stream of the DPF... even still great video because your was well explained. Thanks again.
the best for disolving ash from DPF is muriatic Acid or HCL 2h of soaking in it and ceramic is clean as new . IT disolves ash in 100% with no problems at all
I've never had any problems with mine and I have 280000km on the original 5 year old dpf. I just run cetane booster to improve fuel combustion. The main problem is short trips around town. I drive mine on the highway for a good hour or so to clean it
@@dogpig7683 Worked great! My Autel shows ash content went from 103% down to 15% after pressure washing it out, welding back together, and purging. It's been almost 2 weeks since I did the repair and no issues nor CEL. Thanks for the quality video :)
@@redneckoriental I'm glad I saw your video and comments here. @Triston Murphey I'm glad I saw your post as I'm planning to do my 08 Mercdes E320 as well. I have a few questions if you guys don't mind? 1. What wire did you use to weld it back together, steel or stainless? I'm not sure what material it is on my car. 2. Did you use argon shielding? 3. Did you also power wash the filter up stream of the DPF between that and the DOC which comes off the turbo? I think it's the NOx or SCR filter which sits between those in the engine bay on the passenger side. Thanks for your help guys! Cheers!
100% TRUE!!!! CATLESS DOWNPIPES IN ALL OF MY CARS AND THEY RUN ACCELERATE BETTER THAN EVER WITH NO SMOKE AND 50mpg. Remapped of course one pushing 290hp, the 4cyl pushing 240hp EGR OFF TOO
The clogging occurs faster and it's nastier when the fuel system is "ill". I'm gonna use as an example a regular car with a DPF. If the injectors are not functioning properly, more soot will be produced. If a MAF sensor is not doing proper readings, the ECU will struggle to know the correct combination of air and fuel. A bad fuel burning will result in thicker oil vapors going through the exhaust, and that will slowly but surely clog up the DPF like the one in this video. The DPF will burn up dry soot which then turns into ash before being pushed out. But if the soot is combined with a lot of oil, it's obviously not gonna be able to regenerate properly if can at all. Then we have the swirl flaps, which a lot of people force them open after they've had problems with them, are VERY important for engine idling and low RPM. Driving in the city might be very slowly sometimes, going from point A to point B. The swirl flaps will want to close during most of that trip, which means that they'll block most of the soot going through the system freely as it would if the flaps were stuck in an open position. All that soot would end up in your DPF sooner and in larger quantity. So pay attention to your engine and the fuel injection. Plug in a scanning tool once in a while and make sure the fuel is burned properly. A simple sensor could mess with the air intake values and that'll be enough for the ECU to spasm and make poor decisions on fuel burning. My Mercedes W211, which I still drive once in a while even after upgrading to a newer model, has 917k KM and it had a new DPF when I got it at 450k kilometers on the Dash. I cleaned it every 50k KM along with the intake manifold, throttle body, etc, and it's running perfectly fine to this day. That's more than 450k KM and the damn thing is doing perfectly well. But I took care of the car in a way it would prevent clogging problems. Take care of your vehicle in time otherwise you'll have bigger problems later on. PS: I prefer to use a highly concentrated foam cleaner meant for grills, which you can buy at the supermarket, to spray into the DPF after sealing it, I let it sit for a few hours then do another water cleanse. Then I do another cycle with the same steps because just water is not enough to properly clean all that oily crap that clogged the honeycomb in the first place. After that I let the DPF dry for a day in a vertical position. Only after it's dried properly, I put that back in my car and boom, the thing will last you for a long time.
how many more times can it be washed .... and if its a lot maybe installing a V-band or something would be good. hmm maybe having an oven just for this job
i was just thinking if someone made this a yearly thing if they do lots of miles then why not weld on exhaust v band flange's and have it setup so its a 20 min job without having to remove the whole system? or is this a bad idea?
@@redneckoriental I do well over 100k miles hot shorting. It’s legal to delete your truck up here in Alberta Canada so I normally delete the system from day one. But as rules change I’m learning more about these systems and how to keep them alive.
@@StevenLaFrance : band flange on a DPF is great idea. So great that the manufacturers should make it that way. I'm guessing just about diesel shop does work on these in your area
Great video. I hope I get an answer for this question My truck is an F550 with 6.4L. When it’s running, it doesn’t smoke as long as it’s in PARK, when I drive it, and stop at a traffic light, it covers the whole street with smoke. When it’s in PARK, doesn’t smoke whatsoever
When I got my F250 2008 two years ago, was like yours. Later I realized that there was not filter (ceramic) in the (inside) DPF and CAT, they were working like a pipe. Cuando compre mi F250 super duty hace un par de years, echaba humo como la tuya. Era porque quien me la vendio le había quitado la ceramica interior del DPF y del CATalizador. quiero decir que era como si no trajera el DPF y el CAT. Sorry for my English.
Hey Redneck Oriental great educational video. Gonna take on this task soon. I have a question for you...theoretically what would happen if you were to remove the filter from the dpf and reinstall it? Would the vehicle throw a DTC?
You will get a check engine light. Some trucks will derate after a certain number of miles. The ECU expect to see a certain pressure and temperature differential in the DPF. Meaning, it expects to see the DPF cause some restriction. If it sees no restriction or temperature change, it will assume the DPF is missing or damaged (cracked, causing exhaust to flow straight through). It also expects to see some things happen over time. The amount of restriction should rise over time, as the DPF fills with soot. Then, it should decrease when it goes through active regeneration (heating up the soot to break it down into ash). You would need to program the DPF out of the equation or fool the ECU into thinking one is there.
@@redneckoriental Thanks for the quick reply. Hope you don't mind answering a couple more questions if you have the time. So I can fool the ecu by using a tuner to accomplish this. In your opinion would there be any side effects in running my truck with the the egr and dpf intact (minus the filter in the dpf) and using a tuner to delete the egr/dpf?
Nope. I can't think of any reason that would hurt your engine. Lots of people do this. Usually, they'll eventually delete the EGR and EGR cooler entirely, but I don't see any reason you can't just leave them there.
The soot is carbon and unburned diesel. Wouldn't oven cleaner be the trick? Never cleaned a DPF before but I do use it one 2 stroke engines and spark plugs
The degreasing ingredient in oven cleaner is lye (sodium hydroxide), same as drain cleaner. I tried straight lye in powder form. mixed with water. I also tried Zep industrial purple degreaser, which again is mainly lye. Didn't do a thing.
Have you done this successfully on the newer 19 and up Rams? There are so many posts saying it will strip the metals. My truck wants to constantly regen and the dealer is now mentioning replacing this whole system for the second time. They already replaced it once at 34k and now I am at 65k.
I think that's a farse. The metals aren't sprinkled onto the ceramic like fairy dust. If you're having to replace the system after such few miles. There's something else going on. If your DPF is getting clogged frequently, it's making excessive soot. The #1 cause is fuel not being burned efficiently. Injectors spraying too much fuel could be the cause. But in a RAM (we're talking Cummins RAM), turbo problems are common, mainly the VGT parts. Maybe you have sensors MAP / MAF out of calibration that cause improper air-fuel mixture. If you've had any other engine related faults, that could give you a clue.
Hi, looking to begin cleaning my DPF on my 2015 Duramax soon. Can you recommend a cheaper end scanner that will work for this? Also, I have heard that putting a power washer too close to the DPF can damage it. Is there any truth to this? Obviously you put your power washer very close to the DPF to clean it.
I use a Launch scanner. I think you can get them for $1200. I have the $1800 version that does light duty (cars, pickups) and heavy duty (big rigs, heavy equipment). The Launch scanner seems to be able to do everything my previous Snap-on scanner could do, but at a fraction of the price.
I did this in front of my house lady across the street was pissed when I did the regen noise and steam came out. I think next time might try one of these services if I can find one I can drop it off let them cut it open and do it.
My truck lacks power, to much fuel and fan kicks in to often. Rad and thermostat have been replaced. Did forced regen at a local repair shop, and said soot level down to 30%. To me it seems truck is running hotter then it should, no engine lights. Is it possible dpf is plugged? I bought it used with 200000 km, but 5400 engine hours
Yes, you can. If your scr is clogged with soot, it is probably located upstream of the DPF. You should clean the DPF and everything upstream of the DPF.
Question: how does an SCR go bad?? The dealer wants to charge me 12000 to replace the whole dpf unit. P20EE is in regards to nox sensors and SCR. Shouldn't I try replacing the nox sensors before the whole dpf?? I got my truck back, but it's stuck in idle mode now. I'm stranded almost 1000 miles from home with 3 horses at camp. What a crappy system.
Sorry for such late reply. You probably already took care of it. SCR catalyst goes bad either from cracking and crumbling, usually obstructing exhaust flow. It can also go bad when a lot of dried DEF builds up inside it. P20EE just means the SCR system isn't doing very well converting NOx. It's not very specific. For instance, it's not reporting the NOx sensor readings are abnormal. It's not reporting the DEF pump has low pressure... Simply the SCR ain't working too good. It comes up when NOx conversion is poor. The conversion should be at least 80%. Meaning if NOx parts per million is 100 going in, it should be 20ppm or less going out. MOST of the time, the problem is something other than the SCR catalyst. Like you suspect, the NOx sensor(s) could be reading wrong. The DEF doser could be failing to atomize the DEF into fine particles, etc. Dealers usually want to replace the whole system because it's a lazy, guaranteed fix. Noise from your engine? Replace the engine and that's guaranteed to rid the noise. How do they diagnose the SCR system? Rule out NOx sensor issues. Rule out DEF system issues. If those check out, the SCR catalyst is assumed to be bad. Problem is, NOx sensors are hard to diagnose because when the go bad, they start off intermittent. It's hard to catch them reading incorrectly until they're in the advanced stages of failure. DEF system is easier to diagnose because you can remove the doser, run a command and watch the DEF spray out of the doser.
Has anyone noticed any improvement to fuel mileage after cleaning their filters? I have a 2011 Ram 2500 6.7 - pre DEF fluid mess. But I do have the DPF. I have 176,000+ miles and wonder if cleaning the filter will help in fuel consumption?
I have a 2011 ford f-550 6.7 tow truck couple questions is the video base on the same dpf like mine? And could be cut and clean , cause ford wants me to buy one
I have a 2022 ram 5500 with 260k miles and I’ve been noticing the truck going to regen quiet often while I’m driving I can feel the dpf is about to get clogged, can I do this even I don’t have issues just to preventive maintenance?
It's your truck, you can do whatever you want. But yes, as ash builds up inside the DPF, it will have to regen more frequently because it gets clogged more quickly.
No chemical needed. Just water pressure. I just cleaned a 2011 Sprinter 4 months ago. It was requiring regen too frequently. Eventually, DPF became clogged. I just saw the van again a couple of weeks ago. Owner says it's running great.
Be sure you know where is the stack your DPF is located. Cab N Chassis models have a different order. The truck in video has DPF second, I have done only F250 and F350 pickups (or pickup bed models with flatbeds fitted later) and DPF is last in the stack. 1 tons that came as cab n chassis will have the DPF first for some also. Look for incomplete vehicle labeling on the manufacturer's label on door or door opening.
I think that is false. There are lots of alarmists who make these sorts of statements. They are the same people who will tell you to only take your truck to the dealer for service. Why would a DOC be made so fragile? Besides, there are aqueous cleaning systems for DOCs. I've had no DOC problems after washing them out.
@@redneckoriental ya it was Cummins who told me it had a “special” coating when I had asked about pressure washing the filters. A friend of mine just washed out his dpf but not the doc. Said it runs better. I will try it at next cleaning. Appreciate your reply.
Yes, it will work on your truck. If your truck does not use DEF, it does not have an SCR system and your work will be easier. You will need to clean the DOC and DPF.
The best solution is to remove the internal contents completely leaving the outside canister intact but completely empty. the internals can easily be knocked out with a metal bar. Once empty never again a DPF issue. Of course if anyone ever looks underneath its all still there.
I am in the republic of guyana in South America and would like to remove and clean my exhaust system that consists of all the DPF amenities I have a 2018 Toyota Hilux do you have any videos for my vehicle I would be very grateful if you could send me some information. Thank you I am Mr B.Chuno
Unfortunately, the U.S. never allowed any Toyota diesel pickup trucks. So, I don't have any video for your truck. But the procedure is the same. Just remove your exhaust and follow my instructions to cut it apart and clean. Once you start doing it, you will find it is not very difficult.
I blew my boom tube and kept driving 😢. I split the exhaust to get me back to my shop. I will try and get the truck to do it its self tomorrow. If not I will be doing this.
Just did my 2018 ram 3500 . But instead water they use air. They told me if you use water pressure you would damage the Dpf filter. And anything left in there would crystallize and prematurely clogging it up. This guys are in Ogden UT.
Water does not damage the DPF. There are aqueous cleaning systems that clean DPFs on an industrial scale. Lots of alarmists out there who want you to think everything is so fragile. "Crystalize"? These guys are making things up to sound wise. We've probably cleaned more than 200 DPFs in this manner on all types of trucks; Ford, Ram, GM, Sprinter, Peterbilt, Freightliner, Hino... They're all the same except DPFs on big trucks are made to be disassembled without cutting so they can be cleaned.
The active ingredient in stove cleaner is lye (sodium hydroxide). I've tried ZEP Industrial degreaser and I've tried straight lye. It doesn't work any better than plain water.
my 2019 Ram is giving me all kinds of DPF trouble. Dealer just keeps it for 2 weeks and someone drives the bag off of it and keeps clearing codes. Then they charge me $27.50 a gallon for def that they use, and give it back to me empty.
Excellent video. I stand in absolute awe at man's ability to invent ever increasingly efficient methods of setting cash on fire. That device is at least partially responsible for the inflation of the US dollar in the past 12 years.
And in the end all the shit gets washed off into environment anyways... or more oil and resources are being burnt to make the replacement truck once the DPF kills one...
I find all of that very hard to believe. Especially the part about causing inflation of the US dollar.
Yes it is.. I do this for a living
The EPA excels at setting cash on fire.
Great information. I saw plenty of videos on DPF's getting cleaned, but none that clearly showed how to disassemble the pieces. Really helpful that it is explained how to identify the pieces too. Thanks.
excellent video, absolutely no false or incorrect information throughout! I used this same method to clean a DPF filter on a John Deere combine. I used a hot water water pressure washer but also completely submerged the filter in hot water with some commercial grade (restaurant) Cascade dishwasher detergent (the old school stuff that's been outlawed). It worked perfectly...so I have complete confidence in doing this on my pickup. Just sucks you have to cut and re-weld it
Most detailed best video i have watched on RUclips . Thank you for taking the time to do it justice.
Absolutely the best video on the internet!!!
Imagine if these pieces were all bolted together with a flange, you know so they come apart and can be serviced… since they are serviceable parts!
that should be the LAW!
I feel like that would make it unreliable and more prone to exhaust leaks especially with the heat you're dealing with in there, not to mention if it's clamped it's more likely to leak when doing a regen which could cause your truck to catch on fire. trust me it's better and much safer to have it welded.
@@ElectronicsForFun it's literally how all big rigs and box trucks are built today. No issues with leaks or reliability.
@@hybridorbital85 hmmm...
@@ElectronicsForFun The two mating flanges need to be machined flat, and properly engineered, then bolted together prior to welding to insure seal... remember that warping forces exist and joint's propensity to warp in situ must be allowed to express itself via resilient hangers, already present on most trucks and cars made today... When exhaust systems heat up they move , understand that when designing a modification, millage will very based on spacial IQ an d experience !
Best video ever for this dpf system from beginning to end
I have not started this job as of yet but going to. and I will say this is the best video for any kind of help videos involving DPF's that are out there anywhere thank you so much for all the knowledge you have shared herewith all to see. you need to do many more in other areas.
Again, Thank You for the knowledge.
Great explanation of this system! Wish I would of watched your explanation before anyone elses!!!
Thank you so much man!
2010 F350 same message for me constantly "drive to clean exhaust" and grey smoke intermittently - I know my time is coming soon!
Excellent video and narration!
You, my new friend, may have just saved me hundreds if not thousands of dollars....
definitely thousands unless you find a used one from a low-mileage crashed truck lol
@@thedreadedgman Yep. Did this back then. Worked perfectly.
2012 F250.
Best DPF video by far. I wish you had posted this video back when I was troubleshooting my system.
This is a video for after the trouble shooting, sound like you bought
A diesel without knowing about dpf
@@mikeylopez9625 Yup, first diesel truck with pollution controls 2013 6.6L 2500HD I love the truck but it took me awhile to wrap my head around how the aftertreatment system is supposed to work and a clone of a Tech2 diagnostic tool is a must. thanks again.
Best tutorial I’ve seen on this topic ….. well, Ever. Keep up the good fight brother. PS. More like (after treatment Mandolorian).
What a great presentation! It's a real PITA but doable, thank you.
*SUBSCRIBED* your video is great! Thank you for taking the time to share this with everyone, I really appreciate your time and efforts. Thank you again and may God continue blessing you and your family.
You act like he won something special all becuz you subscribed 😂😂
Awesome video. Great information helps a lot thank you.
What a great video I was having a time identifying which was which on my 2014 2500HD Duramax, this video is super helpful thank you!
Hello Mike. I have tonadd a correction to the video. I worked on a 2014 Duramax cab and chassis today where the SCR was first in the exhaust stream. In the video, I had stated the DOC always comes first.
@@redneckoriental no worries mines is in the exact layout on the video so it was good. It sucks that have to clean both systems including the DPF becuase it is up stream of the DPF... even still great video because your was well explained. Thanks again.
Thank you. Good video. I will take it one step further before welding it back together😄
Thanks for the video. I am about to do my 2009 6.4, and this will be very helpful.
DELETE it
MINE DPF FELL OFF MY TRUCK SAME DAY I BROUGHT IT HOME BRAND NEW‼️ THAT AND A GOOD TUNE FIXED ER RIGHT UP‼️ YA✔️8 YEARS LATER NARIE AN ISSUES ‼️
the best for disolving ash from DPF is muriatic Acid or HCL 2h of soaking in it and ceramic is clean as new . IT disolves ash in 100% with no problems at all
Pure muriatic acid or diluted?
@@HotshotDan 30%
I've never had any problems with mine and I have 280000km on the original 5 year old dpf.
I just run cetane booster to improve fuel combustion. The main problem is short trips around town. I drive mine on the highway for a good hour or so to clean it
@@leadnsteel1428 you're right
you dont know ,
muriatic is indeed ok for ash buildup , but it WILL affect ceramics !! be very gentle
Amazing explanation....thank you!
Very thorough and informative!
Tremendous explanation!!
Thank you, this was awesome
Excellent information! Gonna do this on a 08 Mercedes e320 bluetec tomorrow
Cool. I think you'll find it's all the same, just smaller.
@@dogpig7683 Worked great! My Autel shows ash content went from 103% down to 15% after pressure washing it out, welding back together, and purging. It's been almost 2 weeks since I did the repair and no issues nor CEL. Thanks for the quality video :)
@@KaligaYo Awesome! Glad it worked out! Sorry, didn't realize I replied previously under my dogpig account.
@@redneckoriental I'm glad I saw your video and comments here. @Triston Murphey I'm glad I saw your post as I'm planning to do my 08 Mercdes E320 as well. I have a few questions if you guys don't mind? 1. What wire did you use to weld it back together, steel or stainless? I'm not sure what material it is on my car. 2. Did you use argon shielding? 3. Did you also power wash the filter up stream of the DPF between that and the DOC which comes off the turbo? I think it's the NOx or SCR filter which sits between those in the engine bay on the passenger side. Thanks for your help guys! Cheers!
Thanks for this video. Very interesting!
A steam system would be the ticket for this application.
This might be the best video regarding cleaning the DPF on RUclips. Thank you for putting this up. Redneck Oriental ... thats an awesome name!
Worst thing ever invented for Diesel engines.
The epa is the worst thing 😊
Let's charge 80 thousand for a truck then have to constantly maintenance it fuck dude
All so the environmental contaminates can be held and dumped in one place! And ruin our engines.
Egr enters chat
100% TRUE!!!! CATLESS DOWNPIPES IN ALL OF MY CARS AND THEY RUN ACCELERATE BETTER THAN EVER WITH NO SMOKE AND 50mpg.
Remapped of course one pushing 290hp, the 4cyl pushing 240hp
EGR OFF TOO
Just wonderful explained. 👌👍
THANKS..REALLY GOOD VIDEO.. I'LL TRY TO DO THE SAME.
Just awesome, u make it look really easy. How much is it for a 2012 Ford f 250. Would love to have u do it.
The clogging occurs faster and it's nastier when the fuel system is "ill". I'm gonna use as an example a regular car with a DPF. If the injectors are not functioning properly, more soot will be produced. If a MAF sensor is not doing proper readings, the ECU will struggle to know the correct combination of air and fuel. A bad fuel burning will result in thicker oil vapors going through the exhaust, and that will slowly but surely clog up the DPF like the one in this video. The DPF will burn up dry soot which then turns into ash before being pushed out. But if the soot is combined with a lot of oil, it's obviously not gonna be able to regenerate properly if can at all. Then we have the swirl flaps, which a lot of people force them open after they've had problems with them, are VERY important for engine idling and low RPM. Driving in the city might be very slowly sometimes, going from point A to point B. The swirl flaps will want to close during most of that trip, which means that they'll block most of the soot going through the system freely as it would if the flaps were stuck in an open position. All that soot would end up in your DPF sooner and in larger quantity.
So pay attention to your engine and the fuel injection. Plug in a scanning tool once in a while and make sure the fuel is burned properly. A simple sensor could mess with the air intake values and that'll be enough for the ECU to spasm and make poor decisions on fuel burning.
My Mercedes W211, which I still drive once in a while even after upgrading to a newer model, has 917k KM and it had a new DPF when I got it at 450k kilometers on the Dash. I cleaned it every 50k KM along with the intake manifold, throttle body, etc, and it's running perfectly fine to this day. That's more than 450k KM and the damn thing is doing perfectly well. But I took care of the car in a way it would prevent clogging problems.
Take care of your vehicle in time otherwise you'll have bigger problems later on.
PS: I prefer to use a highly concentrated foam cleaner meant for grills, which you can buy at the supermarket, to spray into the DPF after sealing it, I let it sit for a few hours then do another water cleanse. Then I do another cycle with the same steps because just water is not enough to properly clean all that oily crap that clogged the honeycomb in the first place. After that I let the DPF dry for a day in a vertical position. Only after it's dried properly, I put that back in my car and boom, the thing will last you for a long time.
Thanks bro for this valuable information, best video 💪🤠👍🏼
Thanks man new to diesel great video
Thanks for doing this video. I may try this on my 2013 Silverado duramax. Sure a lot cheaper than replacing the DPF unit.
Very good video, thank you!
Thanks
I wish though you put in the description 6.7 ford.
It took me a while to find your video
The Master at work. Love watching all this. Where is your shop Mr. R-O ?
Riverside, CA. I service commercial accounts. Used to have 4 shops, but got tired of dealing with the public.
No way,, I am 30 minutes from you.. I live in the High Desert.
So would it be best to use a weed burner on the ceramic to kinda pre-dry the dpf filter? Thanks for the info!!
I suppose you could, but if you let it drip dry a few hours, it only takes a few minutes of the engine running to dry it out.
I've used gas blower to pre dry go plenty of volume
Ur the Man Thx brother ! ❤ greatly appreciated 🎉🎉🎉
how many more times can it be washed .... and if its a lot maybe installing a V-band or something would be good. hmm maybe having an oven just for this job
Thanks for the video it really helps a lot.
Great. I hope it all works out for you. I was nervous the first time. But it has always ended up in success.
one more sub & like here for you bro. Excellent tutorial. I'm gonna go grab a mig now, I have the rest.
Should of welded vband clamps on it for next time
Thanks great video, going to local shop tomorrow they clean them for500.00
This exact issue has destroyed bus and school relationships! and parents confidence in bus service.
great video very well made can you put a link of the scan tool you use please it will help us 6.7 dYI owners
i was just thinking if someone made this a yearly thing if they do lots of miles then why not weld on exhaust v band flange's and have it setup so its a 20 min job without having to remove the whole system? or is this a bad idea?
That would be a great idea if you have to clean it frequently, but you should only need to do this every 100K miles or so.
@@redneckoriental I do well over 100k miles hot shorting. It’s legal to delete your truck up here in Alberta Canada so I normally delete the system from day one. But as rules change I’m learning more about these systems and how to keep them alive.
@@StevenLaFrance : band flange on a DPF is great idea. So great that the manufacturers should make it that way. I'm guessing just about diesel shop does work on these in your area
@@horacesawyer2487 to be honest not a lot of them do they just tell you to delete the system. Even the dealer says that all the time.
@@redneckoriental if the EPA is mandating us to have these, they should be serviceable with band clamps 100%. They already are on bigger trucks.
Great video. I hope I get an answer for this question
My truck is an F550 with 6.4L. When it’s running, it doesn’t smoke as long as it’s in PARK, when I drive it, and stop at a traffic light, it covers the whole street with smoke. When it’s in PARK, doesn’t smoke whatsoever
When I got my F250 2008 two years ago, was like yours. Later I realized that there was not filter (ceramic) in the (inside) DPF and CAT, they were working like a pipe. Cuando compre mi F250 super duty hace un par de years, echaba humo como la tuya. Era porque quien me la vendio le había quitado la ceramica interior del DPF y del CATalizador. quiero decir que era como si no trajera el DPF y el CAT. Sorry for my English.
What about flanging the parts that you cut? Would this be possible for easy removal the next time?
Thanks for your AWESOME explanation. and your tutorial! BLESSINGS TO YOU SIR!!! Subscribing..
Where is your shop located for me to take my truck to you?
would a rosebud torch also work?
Hey Redneck Oriental great educational video. Gonna take on this task soon. I have a question for you...theoretically what would happen if you were to remove the filter from the dpf and reinstall it? Would the vehicle throw a DTC?
You will get a check engine light. Some trucks will derate after a certain number of miles. The ECU expect to see a certain pressure and temperature differential in the DPF. Meaning, it expects to see the DPF cause some restriction. If it sees no restriction or temperature change, it will assume the DPF is missing or damaged (cracked, causing exhaust to flow straight through). It also expects to see some things happen over time. The amount of restriction should rise over time, as the DPF fills with soot. Then, it should decrease when it goes through active regeneration (heating up the soot to break it down into ash). You would need to program the DPF out of the equation or fool the ECU into thinking one is there.
@@redneckoriental Thanks for the quick reply. Hope you don't mind answering a couple more questions if you have the time. So I can fool the ecu by using a tuner to accomplish this. In your opinion would there be any side effects in running my truck with the the egr and dpf intact (minus the filter in the dpf) and using a tuner to delete the egr/dpf?
Nope. I can't think of any reason that would hurt your engine. Lots of people do this. Usually, they'll eventually delete the EGR and EGR cooler entirely, but I don't see any reason you can't just leave them there.
@@redneckoriental I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions. 👍🏻
We’re are you located love the video im going through the same problem and this video just may solve my problem
I'm in Riverside, CA. We only service commercial accounts, though.
The soot is carbon and unburned diesel. Wouldn't oven cleaner be the trick? Never cleaned a DPF before but I do use it one 2 stroke engines and spark plugs
The degreasing ingredient in oven cleaner is lye (sodium hydroxide), same as drain cleaner. I tried straight lye in powder form. mixed with water. I also tried Zep industrial purple degreaser, which again is mainly lye. Didn't do a thing.
Have you done this successfully on the newer 19 and up Rams? There are so many posts saying it will strip the metals. My truck wants to constantly regen and the dealer is now mentioning replacing this whole system for the second time. They already replaced it once at 34k and now I am at 65k.
I think that's a farse. The metals aren't sprinkled onto the ceramic like fairy dust. If you're having to replace the system after such few miles. There's something else going on. If your DPF is getting clogged frequently, it's making excessive soot. The #1 cause is fuel not being burned efficiently. Injectors spraying too much fuel could be the cause. But in a RAM (we're talking Cummins RAM), turbo problems are common, mainly the VGT parts. Maybe you have sensors MAP / MAF out of calibration that cause improper air-fuel mixture. If you've had any other engine related faults, that could give you a clue.
right on. thank you very much
This is great video
Good job 👍🖐
Don’t use a 0deg nozzle with that pressure washer. I blasted holes right through the ceramic doc. That crap is very brittle
Hi, looking to begin cleaning my DPF on my 2015 Duramax soon. Can you recommend a cheaper end scanner that will work for this? Also, I have heard that putting a power washer too close to the DPF can damage it. Is there any truth to this? Obviously you put your power washer very close to the DPF to clean it.
I use a Launch scanner. I think you can get them for $1200. I have the $1800 version that does light duty (cars, pickups) and heavy duty (big rigs, heavy equipment). The Launch scanner seems to be able to do everything my previous Snap-on scanner could do, but at a fraction of the price.
Just cleaned one today reinstalling next week will report back
I did this in front of my house lady across the street was pissed when I did the regen noise and steam came out. I think next time might try one of these services if I can find one I can drop it off let them cut it open and do it.
Do the regen at night.
Can you blast the DPF with a torch to burn up the soot that is clogging it and also apply high pressure wash?
You could. In fact when the bake DPF's that exactly what the do. Except the use air pressure instead of water.
Nice
You should use mr muscle spray
My truck lacks power, to much fuel and fan kicks in to often. Rad and thermostat have been replaced.
Did forced regen at a local repair shop, and said soot level down to 30%.
To me it seems truck is running hotter then it should, no engine lights.
Is it possible dpf is plugged?
I bought it used with 200000 km, but 5400 engine hours
Can you clean soot from the scr the same way? My scr is plugged with soot due to a corrected problem.
Yes, you can. If your scr is clogged with soot, it is probably located upstream of the DPF. You should clean the DPF and everything upstream of the DPF.
Question: how does an SCR go bad?? The dealer wants to charge me 12000 to replace the whole dpf unit. P20EE is in regards to nox sensors and SCR. Shouldn't I try replacing the nox sensors before the whole dpf?? I got my truck back, but it's stuck in idle mode now. I'm stranded almost 1000 miles from home with 3 horses at camp. What a crappy system.
Sorry for such late reply. You probably already took care of it. SCR catalyst goes bad either from cracking and crumbling, usually obstructing exhaust flow. It can also go bad when a lot of dried DEF builds up inside it. P20EE just means the SCR system isn't doing very well converting NOx. It's not very specific. For instance, it's not reporting the NOx sensor readings are abnormal. It's not reporting the DEF pump has low pressure... Simply the SCR ain't working too good. It comes up when NOx conversion is poor. The conversion should be at least 80%. Meaning if NOx parts per million is 100 going in, it should be 20ppm or less going out. MOST of the time, the problem is something other than the SCR catalyst. Like you suspect, the NOx sensor(s) could be reading wrong. The DEF doser could be failing to atomize the DEF into fine particles, etc. Dealers usually want to replace the whole system because it's a lazy, guaranteed fix. Noise from your engine? Replace the engine and that's guaranteed to rid the noise. How do they diagnose the SCR system? Rule out NOx sensor issues. Rule out DEF system issues. If those check out, the SCR catalyst is assumed to be bad. Problem is, NOx sensors are hard to diagnose because when the go bad, they start off intermittent. It's hard to catch them reading incorrectly until they're in the advanced stages of failure. DEF system is easier to diagnose because you can remove the doser, run a command and watch the DEF spray out of the doser.
@redneckoriental thank you for the info. Much appreciated!
Has anyone noticed any improvement to fuel mileage after cleaning their filters? I have a 2011 Ram 2500 6.7 - pre DEF fluid mess. But I do have the DPF. I have 176,000+ miles and wonder if cleaning the filter will help in fuel consumption?
Yes it will help.
Absolutely! 6.7 powerstrokes get 28-30 mpg on the highway when straight piped and tuned.
Why didn’t you reset the dpf/doc in the ecm? That’s standard procedure after cleaning.
I have a 2011 ford f-550 6.7 tow truck couple questions is the video base on the same dpf like mine? And could be cut and clean , cause ford wants me to buy one
Hello Jose. Yes, I've used this method to clean Ford, GM and RAM DOC/DPF/SCR systems.
I have a 2022 ram 5500 with 260k miles and I’ve been noticing the truck going to regen quiet often while I’m driving I can feel the dpf is about to get clogged, can I do this even I don’t have issues just to preventive maintenance?
It's your truck, you can do whatever you want. But yes, as ash builds up inside the DPF, it will have to regen more frequently because it gets clogged more quickly.
Working on a 2013 sprinter want to clean the unit with the pressure washer which chemical should I use
No chemical needed. Just water pressure. I just cleaned a 2011 Sprinter 4 months ago. It was requiring regen too frequently. Eventually, DPF became clogged. I just saw the van again a couple of weeks ago. Owner says it's running great.
Be sure you know where is the stack your DPF is located. Cab N Chassis models have a different order. The truck in video has DPF second, I have done only F250 and F350 pickups (or pickup bed models with flatbeds fitted later) and DPF is last in the stack. 1 tons that came as cab n chassis will have the DPF first for some also. Look for incomplete vehicle labeling on the manufacturer's label on door or door opening.
I was told you can’t wash out the DOC because it’ll wash out the coating that allows it to get to the proper temps.
I think that is false. There are lots of alarmists who make these sorts of statements. They are the same people who will tell you to only take your truck to the dealer for service. Why would a DOC be made so fragile? Besides, there are aqueous cleaning systems for DOCs. I've had no DOC problems after washing them out.
@@redneckoriental ya it was Cummins who told me it had a “special” coating when I had asked about pressure washing the filters. A friend of mine just washed out his dpf but not the doc. Said it runs better. I will try it at next cleaning. Appreciate your reply.
Do you think this process would work on a 2007 ford f550?
Yes, it will work on your truck. If your truck does not use DEF, it does not have an SCR system and your work will be easier. You will need to clean the DOC and DPF.
Basically you don’t need to dry the DPS or DOC before putting it back together ???
The best solution is to remove the internal contents completely leaving the outside canister intact but completely empty. the internals can easily be knocked out with a metal bar. Once empty never again a DPF issue. Of course if anyone ever looks underneath its all still there.
This is false. Do NOT gut out the inside of your DPF. Certified CAT Technician here.
What kind of scan tool do u have
Launch
I am in the republic of guyana in South America and would like to remove and clean my exhaust system that consists of all the DPF amenities I have a 2018 Toyota Hilux do you have any videos for my vehicle I would be very grateful if you could send me some information. Thank you I am Mr B.Chuno
Unfortunately, the U.S. never allowed any Toyota diesel pickup trucks. So, I don't have any video for your truck. But the procedure is the same. Just remove your exhaust and follow my instructions to cut it apart and clean. Once you start doing it, you will find it is not very difficult.
Wow Genius
All aftertreatment devices are SS. The magnetic ones 409 SS (ferritic,10% Chromium).
can this process clean unclog even 95percent block ? thank you
Wouldn’t a 4” hole saw work better than pressure washer ?
Coincidentally, I have video on the dark web titled "Clean your DPF for good using a 4 inch hole saw"
@@redneckoriental rumble ? I’d like to see it sometime .
Whenever my hiace regens the exhaust will blow out lots of white smoke, is it normal?
My Dodge Ecodiesel does as well. Must be
Subscribed
I blew my boom tube and kept driving 😢. I split the exhaust to get me back to my shop. I will try and get the truck to do it its self tomorrow. If not I will be doing this.
Just did my 2018 ram 3500 . But instead water they use air. They told me if you use water pressure you would damage the Dpf filter. And anything left in there would crystallize and prematurely clogging it up. This guys are in Ogden UT.
Water does not damage the DPF. There are aqueous cleaning systems that clean DPFs on an industrial scale. Lots of alarmists out there who want you to think everything is so fragile. "Crystalize"? These guys are making things up to sound wise. We've probably cleaned more than 200 DPFs in this manner on all types of trucks; Ford, Ram, GM, Sprinter, Peterbilt, Freightliner, Hino... They're all the same except DPFs on big trucks are made to be disassembled without cutting so they can be cleaned.
what scan tool app did you use? it seems to be running on android.
It's a Launch x431 Pad. They do use an android tablet made by Lenovo.
Hes the funniest sounding chinese dude ever
Sorry about my American accent.
at 11000 to 15000 dollars.....it is definitely worth a shot.
I do this at work..
what about wood stove cleaner?
The active ingredient in stove cleaner is lye (sodium hydroxide). I've tried ZEP Industrial degreaser and I've tried straight lye. It doesn't work any better than plain water.
Pro tip. once removed, just leave it off. solves almost every problem.
I don’t need to dry the DOC or DPS before putting back and install ????
No. The hot exhaust gases will dry the them..
I prefer to clean the SCR by performing a delete.
Make video How to clean ram 2022 2500
At 20:03 I show you a Ram aftertreatment system. The process is the same as Ford and GM.
my 2019 Ram is giving me all kinds of DPF trouble. Dealer just keeps it for 2 weeks and someone drives the bag off of it and keeps clearing codes. Then they charge me $27.50 a gallon for def that they use, and give it back to me empty.