Just finished a dpf filter on a Kubota diesel. No exhaust was going thru filter and someone removed a sensor to allow exhaust to come out of 1/4 inch opening only. We used the drain cleaner and acid wash method. Drain cleaner seemed to be effective in getting out oily substances. The acid wash we used was Muriatic acid and let it sit overnight. The next morning a lot of black soot came out but no red ash was detected. After thoroughly flushing we reinstalled into tractor. And after 2 days of drying, now the engine runs perfect and full exhaust is flowing thru filter. Running for approx. 1 hour no residuals of water/chemical were detected. The tractor definitely runs better now. Thanks for the DPF cleaning advice.
Hi, great to hear about a job well done! You left the acid for a lot longer than the 30 minutes that I did, so it is quite possible that the ash was completely broken down and so ended up colorless.
@@StevenBTuner Someone has just mentioned Muriatic acid which I did not see in your test video. The question therefore is whether Muriatic acid was likely to be as harmless to the DPF as phosphoric acid and whether it may be more or less effective, considering the the Poster Jeffrey Buck left it overnight. It would be interesting to know if any technique may be developed to allow users reasonable prospect of successful cleaning just by filling through the O2 sensor or other accessible sensor position at the top? There are of course commercial products that are designed for this method, but unless Project Farm might test them all we don't really know that any of them are as effective as the chemicals you tested, especially considering you gave relatively short time for effective treatment to be proven possible
@@air5002 Hi, I have a separate vid about doing a full clean if you have an integrated catalyst: ruclips.net/video/LE1boZ3fhLg/видео.html , and in that video diluted HCl (muriatic acid) is used as the second stage cleaning step. The ceramic DPF material itself is not harmed by acids, but even weak HCl will attack steel/stainless steel, so you don't want to leave it in for more than 30 minutes if at all possible when used for a car. Phosphoric acid is much kinder to steel, but needs to be really strong to clean out the ash - which then makes it incompatible with the precious metals in the catalyst. You can see that each cleaning method involves a compromise. One thing I've noticed that even these strong chemicals don't dissolve everything, and it takes back-flushing with water to remove all of the residue left over from the cleaning - so it is my opinion that in-place cleaning can never be as good as cleaning that involves removal and back-flushing. I consider in-place cleaning to be more of a maintenance item that could be done every 2 years, for example, to extend DPF life.
In summary A big thank you for this video. I took mine out and after watching another video I started to clean with a simple water hose based gardening spary wand. I kept on with this it and kept extracting little 1cm solid and tubular blockage, I emptied a heavy duty degreaser and a huge amount of dissolved grease plus solid cubes kept comming out. More kept coming out when I lifted the DPF out of the water container and letting the water come in and then rush out. I then I kept going untill I couldn't see any more coming out. Especially on the reverse flush with the wand. But I kept seeing little oil slicks come out with occasional black cubes. Then i saw your video so I started with Calcium Lime Rust remover. Which contains phosphoric acid. I kept doing this many many times where I would spray 1/2 a CLR container directly and then wash it through. I kept getting 1cm bits so I kept doing the same multiple times and still getting small length of blocks. I then started with a higher concentration of 1cup CLR in 2 ltrs about 5 times. This kept small blocks coming out (with water) especially when I would leave the water overnight as part of the final rinse and lifting and dunking the DPF till no more small bits came out. Since it kept only extracting small bits and no metal oxides, I then sprayed another full can of Heavy Duty degreaser and this time extracted a substantial amount of blocks and dissolved oil. This was followed with more lifting and dunking till no more blocks. I treid to use my Endoscope to see the results so used a hair drier to see better. But the hair drier had too much back pressure and it cut out. So I used the last of 4 cans of degreaser and again rotated and left the solution sit on as much of the modules as possible. this again was followed with a water rinse with spray handle (sadly I bent the temp sensor) and dunk and final rinse. With the final dunk and lift i could finally hear the swish of the water flowing as I llifted and dunk the unit. The Endoscope showed progress. So I started to dry it with my simple hair dryer and this time the air flow from the hair drier had improved substantially. I only saw a small amount of the metal oxides. At $1.5 tommorrow I will put a total of 5 degreaser cans through and rinse it and inspect the water flow and then the air flow. So far in total I've used *) a hand spray bottle of CLR *) 1.5 ltr of CLR concentrate watered down *) a huge lot of water to flush each cleaning session and *) 4 cans of degreaser. I reckon if I had done the degreaser with a capacity to push the degreaser back and forth in 1/2 hr session (under a small amount of pressure) and then CLR I'd have saved days of work and hundred of ltrs of water. I hope this helps others. PS mine is a Suzuki original DPF from a Grand Vitara 2010 1.9DDIS
As a final clean I'm emtying another 3 1/2 cans of degreaser (3 1/2 completely fills the chamber with the DPF modules fully imerced in a 2010 Suzuki Grand Vitara 1.9 DDIS. Laying it on its side I can rock it back and forth which works best. I'll add a ful report when I'm finished.
This man saved me like 3k last year on my Volvo. did the fix for about $35. 25k KM later zero issues. That said, I feel scammed by how easy it was to remove the DPF on this car, I had to take apart half my engine to get the DPF out!
:-) Manufacturers try and put the DPF as close to the engine now to keep them as hot as possible, but you are right that it doesn't make removing them very easy!
Great video! might attempt this instead of paying someone else to do it. Would have been nice to weigh the thing before and after to get a rough idea of how much soot these things accumulate, for us geeks.
If you give it a go, then it would be great to hear how it went! A great idea, but the weighing would need to be done after the pieces were baked in an oven for a few hours as the ceramic sucks in water like a flower pot.
good video, only thing i would say is that it reads zero at the end because you've reset it, basically telling the car that whatever the pressure difference is now, is zero.
@@ploughable about 20-25 miles , up to 20 is ok and from then i didnt have any issue with it, before was once a month . I have a Volvo S60 D5 2008 185hp
Thank you for all your job done! You need an air compressor to dry the filter out (some say water drops may blast off cracking the ceramics). And why don't you use the oxalic acid - it is sold everywhere for water treatment systems as a powder? In the previous videos that acid demonstrated good results. HCL is considered as a drugs making part by the authorities in many countries and buying the brick cleaner adds unexpected chemicals to the cleaning process. By the way to rise the pressure you can use an old bmw pump.
Hi, the ceramic material absorbs quite a lot of water, but I'm not sure that there is any perfect method for drying it out. Fortunately the material seems to be very tough, so I'm not sure how likely cracking from steam expansion actually is - time for some testing! Acid availability seems to be very variable depending on the country, but keep an eye out for another oxalic acid test again soon!
Hey Steven, after studying the best way to clean my Cx-5 from 2016, I opted for a 3 stage cleaning without removing the DPF. 1. 2 L of Dish-washing liquid 50% then wash with 4 L of water with engine on 2. 1.5 L of Caustic Soda 10% ongine off then wash 4 L of water with engine on 3. 2 L of NaCl 10% with engine off then 5 L of water with engine on. I did all the operations using a compression sprau-gun with can, through the Diff pressure DPF larger tube :) At the end I did a 20 km ride with the car with high rpm. The results are quite good for now: At 3000 rpm 10 kPa before -> 4.5 kPa now. I will update how it goes in the future
hi steven! few days ago we talked about dpf filter cleaning. I did it and was very difficult because at my car filter it is very complicated to take it out. caddy tdi 1.6 .....any way,, I full it with dish washing tablets without remove completely..of course with delicate manner. I left it 8-10 hours and I think is cleaned very well. I reset dpf with diagnostic delphi 2017 And new result was 24.1 gr (62,7 gr before ) . It worked and its breathe of excaust its better! I saw your recent experiment, well done! When you servicing your injectors did ypu change o rings or left the same Because its difficult to find new o'rings. for high temperature and I am scared to take it out injectors without are broken
Hi, well done on doing the job yourself! You are the first person to report back about a DPF clean that used only the dishwasher tablets - and it's great to hear that it can make a good difference even without the acid wash. A 38 gram reduction in ash like that is probably equivalent to more than 5 years of driving.
You have very good content, I'm amazed that you don't have much more views. The only remark that I have is that you should've shown the differential pressure before and after cleaning.
Hi, thanks for watching! I had screen video capture of differential pressures at various RPM and loads, but unfortunately the video file got corrupted and wouldn't open in the video editor.
Cool videos, Steven. I've been thinking about how an ultrasonic type cleaner could be lowered into the top chamber of the DPF during the chemical bathes with this videos setup. I would think that would be interesting to try. Maybe an ultimate setup would be a big bath heated type ultrasonic tub with a pump setup to reverse flow the DPF into a settling tank for the ash.
Hi, thanks for watching! Some professional DPF cleaning companies use ultrasonic cleaners as their cleaning method, so it definitely can be done. I bought a big ultrasonic cleaner to try, but for a one-off clean it ends up taking longer to do and is more hassle than the other chemical methods I have shown on the vids.
Hi Steven. I think the 76% is normal after forcing a regeneration on Opel cars. It also starts the conventional "regenerating while driving" process after the manual stationary one.
Hi, I'm not sure what you are referring to with the 76%. A good indication is the number of miles/kms between scheduled regeneration - as the filter fills up with ash the distance between cycles will become less and less.
@@StevenBTuner in the video you are referring to 76% dpf status after manual regeneration. The 76% does not mean the manual regeneration didn't really work. It is just set this way by the ecu, so the car also das a conventional regeneration as soon as possible after the manual one. The dpf percentage in the ecu is always just a calculated value (mileage since last generation, how many cold starts, etc) which is checked for plausibility with the differential pressure reported by the dpf dp sensor. What i wanted to say: you can't trust the percentage
@@KilianGosewisch Hi, the 76% is the Cinder Count in the DPF. After each Regen a deposit is left behind which collects inside the DPF eventually completely blocking it. For Instance, my DPF has a 90% cinder count with an estimated 17,000 miles of life before it is completely blocked. 90% is not the Regen. It is the residue left behind after the Regen.
Very useful information. Can you please do a similar chemical ash removal video on the newer VW TDI DPFs (2015 and above EA288 TDIs) which have the SCR and DPF combined on one single brick?
Hi, I haven't done any testing specifically on combined SCR systems. Mostly it is the diesel oxidation catalyst (DOC) that is in the same housing as the DPF material, and that is covered in my other video: ruclips.net/video/LE1boZ3fhLg/видео.html
Hi. Here in Norway I can only get my hands on Sodium Hydrogen Sulfate and Sodium Carbonate. It`s ment to take the Ph up/down in pools. Wondering if this would work? I have no idea if my car has DOC catalyst, It`s a Mercedes C-Class c200 OM646 engine 2005mod. Thanks for amazing video!
Hi, your car probably has a DOC. For the first stage you could use some industrial strength degreaser or dishwasher tablets. If you can force a regeneration before you remove the DPF then it shouldn't have much soot to remove anyway. All the best with the job!
Excellent video -- mine is a 65 plate Ford C max 1.5tdci - with today - Fault codes P2463 - soot accumulation and Fault code P2455 DPF sensor circuit high. ---- I had a new sensor fitted two weeks ago - but problem persists ? Any thoughts from you would be much appreciated. Thank you
I wish I had used my endoscope pre starting to clean and some pregressive shots. My latest sticky beek into the up steam indicates a further more thorough clean rerquired. Water flow is is very good but hair dryer air flow was not to good.
I own a 2012 Vauxhall/Opel Astra 1.7CDTi diesel @ just under 100k so very interested in your superb series of videos. I would say its showing the symptoms that require a deep clean - 'mandatory trys to regen and failing as this does not appear to yield any change. My motoring like most is short frequent trips with the occasional long journey, primarily on faster out of town highways rather than in a town/city. Potentially blocked as you have described in need of cleaning - so I am going to try your suggestions. You mention most DPF's can actually be saved rather than scrapped, with this cleaning cycle. Given average use and deterioration of the materials within a DPF what should the real life expectancy of a DPF be in a well looked after vehicle - 50k, 100k, 200k or longer?
Hi, most cars get from 120 - 180k miles before they get ash clogged, and need a clean. Soot clogging can happen at any time, and indicates that there is an issue with the egr valve, glow plugs, or a sensor - resulting in the regeration failing. You will need connect a good diagnostic unit to verify which is most likely.
Hi. Thank you for the video. It does save us a lot of money. I heard that after cleaning, you have to reset the DPF filter on the computer. I haven't got a computer, so I'm wondering how important this is? Wouldn't the computer just figure it out itself?
Welcome! It depends on the car whether you have to tell the computer that a new DPF has been installed - and is usually for cars built between 2000 and 2010. Newer cars have additional pressure sensors to calculate soot and ash volumes, so they don't need a crude mileage countdown system to be reset.
Can you make a video how to clean catalytic convertor? For older cars which do not have dpf. What fluid is the best (acide or base), which also will not make demagen on it. Thank you!
Hi, I know that some folk have followed the steps in my other video with success on gasoline catalytic convertors: ruclips.net/video/LE1boZ3fhLg/видео.html
Hi Steven, do you think it would be more effective and at the same time still safe to use warm/hot water with the acid. You said that the Sodium Hydroxide should't be above 100°C but what about the acid. Generally speaking the warmer the quicker the chemical reaction, or not?
Over the years there have been a few chemists who have commented that it is definitely a good idea to start with hot water to make everything work faster.
Glad you liked it! If a DIY DPF clean is something that you are contemplating then my favorite method is still the one featured in this vid: ruclips.net/video/LE1boZ3fhLg/видео.html
Hey Steven, im working on a car with a soot-contaminated DPF (from lots of low speed driving). I'd like to avoid removing the DPF for cleaning if possible. I'm thinking that running a few litres of degreaser or similar into the upstream pressure sensor tube, let it sit for a half an hour, and then run the engine for a bit to blow it out the tailpipe, should flush out the soot? Might take a few rounds... The idea being to bring the soot levels down to the point where it can start doing active regens again to manage future soot buildup. Are there any faults to my logic?
Hi, some cars are more likely to suffer from soot build-up due to low speed driving than others. From talking to friends who have exactly that issue, they have found that the 'DPF Clean' fuel tank additives do in fact help by reducing the temperature that the soot burns off (changes from carbon to carbon dioxide). Adding degreaser will loosen up any oil, but won't help to lower the oxidation temperature - so the soot (carbon) particles will remain stuck in the very fine DPF matrix.
very good video!!! i have an peugeot 2014 expert and changed the filter a year ago,now with mot inspection the filter is realeasing to (5 miljoen)much particles...still have the old filter and want to clean it with vinager ,leave it in there for a few days and then back flush it???and how is it that the mounted new filter is exeeding the limit,could it be burned so its leaking from wall to wall in stead of filtering???doesn t seem to be blocked???
Hi, it is very common for those Peugeot filters to be cracked, so you will probably need a replacement. As an emergency measure you could add 2 bottles of Liqui-Moly Diesel Stop Smoke to a half full fuel tank - and that will maybe get you through a test.
Hi. Very informative series of videos! Thanks. I purchased the autel ap200 for my nissan X trail. However I don't get the option to replace the dpf (only to reset it or do a regen) nor does it seem to have the dpf specific live data. Is this just a case of "tough luck" due to the model of car maybe?
Hi, the AP200 emulates the manufacturer's diagnostic system - so what features you get varies quite a lot between the brands. I hope you still find it a worthwhile purchase...and of course it will gain some features when you get a BMW ;-)
thank you for your valuable advice. a question. to clean a dpf with built-in catalyst on euro 6 cars. which video and which products do you recommend?. sorry for the translation, a warm greeting from Italy
Hello Steven ! If a recall very well, in the No damage DIY dpf cleaner video you used concentrated (32%) HCL....you diluted it with water in 1:4 ratio, that's bringing the concentration to 8%.....here you are talking of 6-7% concentration, any concentration above this being aggressive on the stainless steel housing, am confused, please make it more clear. Thanks
Hi, I think I go through the numbers in the first video...but to clarify: 1 part acid plus 4 parts water gives a total of 5 parts, so take 32% and divide by 5, which gives 6.4% strength (which is sort of 6-7%). At the end of the day it won't matter too much whether you are a bit off with the mixing, you just don't want over 10% or your stainless steel will probably end up going rusty!
Dear Steven, what do you recommend to do to completely rinse out or neutralize residual acid? I am asking as there was a comment from some chemist's that after the process you presented there still might be an issue with acid left.
Hello Steven. Fantastic videos. Keep up the education. I have an issue if you can shed some light with your wonderful know-how. I have a auris which i am continously cleaning the dpf with brick cleaner, dish washer tablets and sodium hydroxide (all with instant and great results). problem is it gets bunged up again about a month later. Could the type of oil ime using be at fault, its C2 mid saps (normally burn about half a litre a month) recommended by dealer. Should i switch to C1 or C2 which are low saps ? (engine about 100k, ime in the uk). Thanks
Hi, that sounds like quite a lot of oil usage, and I expect that your car would be using low saps - but if it isn't then there is a reason, and you shouldn't go against the manufacturer recommendation. However, you definitely shouldn't be having to clean out out your filter more than once every 150,000 miles or you have some other system failure that is stopping the active regeneration from working properly. Connecting a good OBDII code reader like the Autel AP200 is definitely worth doing to see if the EGR valve or glow plugs etc are throwing up errors.
@@StevenBTuner Thanks for reply. Apparantly its normal/common on the auris. Do you thinking blanking the egr will help ? i mean the soot and crap might be building up because of that.
@@jasonbonde9630 EGR valves work great when everything else is working well, but when the engine gets a bit older and burns a bit of oil due to valve stem seals, piston rings etc - that burn oil gets fed back through the intake system and helps fill the egr valve and intake manifold with oily gunk.
I have a 2014 GLK 250 Bluetec, my question is am I safe to use phosphoric acid and if so what percent should I dilute it down to?. There is a seperate "CAT" infront of the DPF and the SCR Cat behind it. If not I will play it safe and use muriatic acid and dilute it down to 5-8%.
Hi, thanks for watching! For a 2014 car it is definitely better to go for the more dilute HCl/muriatic acid clean as featured in my other vid: ruclips.net/video/LE1boZ3fhLg/видео.html
If using drain cleaner or dishwasher tablets, do you dilute it the same way as with pH up? And does it have to be this very pH down / up product or can it also be from another brand?
Hi, with drain cleaner try 1 : 10 mix - it should be okay unless the filter is really oily. With the pH Down products there can be a range of ingredients, but it is best to go for those made of phosphoric acid so that they don't do any harm to the metals. The websites sometime tell you what acids are in each brand, but if not then it will take a bit of googling to find the safety data sheet.
Steven I have really big problem with my Mercedes C220 Dpf is blocked I spent lot of money but the problem is still there I need your suggestion I should I do
Hi, thanks for watching! I 3D-printed the plastic plugs, but you could make them out of cork or wood too. The exhaust was joined together using some exhaust joining clamps from an auto parts store.
I used "calcium lime rust" and think I might have damaged the DPF. The packet said not to use on marble (RTFM) I took out the DPF stra6ted with a straight water back wash and lost of soot came out. I then used 2 cans of degreaser and lots more soot came out and a tiny amount the red chromates you got in your videos. The DPf are often made from cordierite. Did I fk up my DPF??? Also there is videos suggesting why the DPF fails and gets clogged the first is failed pressure sensor that stops the cars own regeneration process. Thus checking the sensor will help prevent the DPf clog. Second is a failed glow plugt as the Glow plug is needed as part of the cars own regen process while it adds that extra squirt of fuel tha will burn in the DPF.
Hi, you will have to check the safety datasheet to see exactly what it is in the product, but if anything is going to be damaged by acid it will be the metal first, so I think you will be okay.
Some of the iron oxide ash came out and when I picked them out and left them in my water/CLR mix (mixed at a cup of CLR with 2lt of water ) the red blocks didn't get touched even after hours of soaking. But the water flow has improved dramtically after multiple multiple cleans (over 10-15 clenaing cycles), with the CLR and a cheap pressure water hose. Still more to be done. I'll stop when ash blocks stop coming out. I reckon that since the DPF is hundreds of long holes and complete bocking happens over time the cleaning will softebn and release in lots of small incraments.
Hi. Can you tell me wether a dpf has any precious metals in them. I understand that some cats and dpfs are in the same can but I mean in the dpf core only. I don't believe there is but many people say there is and precious metals will be washed out.
hi steven thanks for the video. How much to use the ph reducer, should it use 2 liters of water to half a liter like ph down, or should it use the ph down directly to the filter? If I use HCL instead of ph down, is it okay if I use 25% hcl as 75% water?
A good OBD2 reader will have DPF functions. Newer cars after 2014 will automatically adjust to a cleaned DPF, but most cars before 2010 will need to have the DPF total kms reset before the DPF light will go away.
Hi, the increasing oil level is caused by the additional diesel being injected to heat up the DPF during an active regeneration. On this car the filter was so blocked that a regeneration was being scheduled every 50 kms, resulting in enough diesel getting past the piston rings to raise the level on the dipstick. I thinks I should do a video about it :-)
way the oil that im using is Acea C2 which i believe is mid-saps - would it really be harmful to use Acea C1 which is low saps (Its got 0.5 sulphated ash compared to C2 which has 0.8) ??? Many thanks in advance
Hi, there are so many factors and so much testing that goes into the oil standards that are recommended by manufacturers, that it would be irresponsible for me to make a general comment regarding your particular car. Sometimes the low saps oil isn't recommended by the manufacturer because at the date of manufacture, the low saps oil standard didn't exist - so if you can see that your exact engine model was given different oil recommendations as the years progressed (with no changes to the actual engine), then it could be that the later lower saps variant would probably be okay to use, but you will need to do a lot of digging to confirm this.
Hi Steve I got all the soot out and measured the depth of a few of the tiny tunnels from the gas exit end with a thin spring wire I straightened out. All good. I then measured the depths of the tiny channels from the inlet end and many stopped (clogged) at around 5 inches short of full depth some even more. I'll have to get the phosphoric acid and give that a go. Or I might use WD40 as their blurb says it disolves Rust (FeO)
@@alexschulz8791 Hi, the best ash dissolving results I get are with the 6-7% hydrochloric acid solution along with lots of shaking and forward and reverse flushing. The phosphoric acid is more metal-friendly, but sometimes you need the raw power. Wear good protective glasses, gloves and clothing!
@@StevenBTuner 1 ltr of phosphoric acid did a lot of disolving and plenty of red came out. But 1ltr is not enough to really clean the whole depth. Thus I'll make the HCL solution to get to the last of the DPF. Cross fingers.
Hi, I much prefer finding 'pure' generic chemicals whenever possible because things like wheel cleaner can be made of so many different things, and at wildly different concentrations. Acid based wheel cleaners can contain phosphoric or oxalic acid, both of which will probably dissolve DPF ash, but I haven't done any testing yet to make sure they won't damage the catalyst materials or the steel / stainless steel case.
Hi, a dishwasher tab won't hurt the sensor, and even the acid 2nd stage has been done by plenty of people where the sensor wouldn't come out, and all was okay.
@@StevenBTuner Thanks for the answer and huge thanks for making all these quality videos. I'm not entirely positive the DPF is paired with a CAT, but I am fairly certain the dishwasher tab wouldn't damage it.
Hi, the HCl and NaOH featured in my other video (The No Damage DIY DPF Clean) are cheaper, easier to find, and work better - so that would be my recommended method.
Hi, the in-place cleaning methods are easier, but will need to be repeated more often as it is difficult to get the chemical into every part of the filter.
Hi, thanks for watching! The soot (carbon) in the DPF is burnt off regularly by your car (active regeneration) or can also be burnt off with a good long drive (passive regeneration). However, this video is more concerned with removing the ash which builds up in the filter over 100,000 to 150,000 miles, and mostly comes from compounds in your engine oil which can't be burnt away.
Yes i know. But will occasionally hard driving remove the ash? And will it help to prevent the ash buildup from happening or slowering the buildup from happening?
Hi, driving hard might burn a bit more oil and a will definitely burn more diesel and therefore *increase* how quickly ash forms. As a vehicle owner, the way to reduce ash buildup is to follow the manufacturer's recommended 'low ash' engine oil standard when buying oil (or make sure your mechanic does), and to use good quality diesel fuel (most car diesel worldwide is now ultra low ash as standard, so you only have to avoid using marine or farm diesel).
Hi, just a question. I've been watching a few of your DPF cleaning videos and followed up with the heavy duty degreaser followed by brick acid. I left the heavy duty degreaser sitting inside for 3 or 4 days (repeatedly pouring it back through). I then tried the process with brick acid but diluting it down and only letting it sit for 20 minutes. The degreaser cleaned a lot of oily soot deposits but after all the hours of rinsing brick acid through I was still left with what I think is the solid block of ash inside, poking a screw driver through I was able to scrape away at it but nothing broke it down. Coincidentally I also have a Vauxhall astra DPF filter very similar to the one used in this video. After the week of cleaning I reinstalled it and got the same error message P244B DPF pressure too high(indicates full). What should I do !? Please any help is great, thanks.
Hi, if car has dumped a lot of oil in the DPF, or if the filter was completely clogged with soot as a result of another engine or EGR issue then it can be almost impossible to clean it without using extreme heat (video coming soon). If it is only ash that is clogging up things then the color will be between white and red (and you will need to do more acid washing), but if it oil or soot then it will be black (and you may need to scrape it out or gently blast it with a pressure washer - but not too closely, in order to expose the ceramic material ready for an acid wash).
@@StevenBTuner I had no colour difference when rinsing with brick acid and water. Definitely a lot of black came out with the first few rinses of degreaser. The vehicle was likely running on 1/4 glow plugs for a while too, amongst other things I think its definitely fair to say its had a lot of oil dumped through.
Hi, sounds like a second round of cleaning might be in order. Using a higher concentration of acid is more likely to eat away a bit of the metal housing, but if you can´'t get the gunk out then the filter is for the scrapheap anyway, so there is not much to lose.
is it easy to ruin a filter cleaning it with the correct chemicals? i have VW amarok with a clogged filter and i think its also a CAT setup. what do you reccommand i use? in AUS
Hi, it is a 2007 Corsa 1.3cdti. A very well designed engine with amazing fuel economy and reliability - even with that high mileage it is still running the original turbo, egr valve and the intake has never been clogged up. The same engine is in some Ford, Peugeot, Citroen and Fiat models too.
Hi I was about to order alloy wheel cleaner for my dpf but it says it's hydrochloric acid not phosphoric acid is there much difference and will either of these be safe to use.
Hi, I have the best results with a 2 stage wash, where the 2nd stage is 6% HCl flushed and back-flushed for 30 minutes. It is covered in my other video: The No Damage DIY DPF Clean.
Hello Steven ! If a recall very well, in the No damage DIY dpf cleaner video you used concentrated (32%) HCL....you diluted it with water in 1:4 ratio, that's bringing the concentration to 8%.....here you are talking of 6% concentration, am confused, please make it more clear. Thanks
Hi, what chemical stage do you recommend That is safe to do a full dpf clean that i can perform on a Sept 2012 Honda Accord 2.2 I-DTEC with 95k on the clock with up-to-date full main dealer service history and the dpf has never been removed before its had 4 static regenerations in the past 5 months and im guessing the ash content/particulate matter, is getting higher and higher that is why its wanting to regenerate every 300 or so miles more and more. Ive been recommended to take it to Halfords for a deep clean for £85.00 but im not keen on them working on it only to take it back to them a month later, can you help?
Hi, unless you have been using the wrong type of oil or filling your car with old farm diesel, then I wouldn't expect it to be ash-clogged quite yet - maybe after 150k miles it would certainly benefit from a full removal and clean. The 300 mile regeneration interval isn't too bad either. What symptoms are causing you to look for a problem to fix?
@@StevenBTuner Dpf light stays on a it's in continual limp mode and wont passively regenerate even after 1 hour of motorway driving. What makes you think it has had cheap oil in it? As stated in my above comment if read correctly, it has full main dealer service history and i dont believe they would use cheap non-standard oil in it? Regards to fueling, It either has Shell v-power or Esso synergy+ diesel . Farm diesel??. Ive covered 20k miles in the 18 months ive owned the vehicle with a good mix of A/B roads and duel carriage/ motorway driving. I don't know how the vehicle has been driven previously to my ownership? I am going forward with the process of elimination, there may be an underlying issue elsewhere with it, i dont know. You dont get any notification to go by when it wants to do a regeneration, just a "ping" on the dash and throws itself in to "Teddy mode".
Hi, what I'm saying is that it is very unlikely that your filter is the issue. It is much more likely that you have an issue with a stuck EGR valve or a malfunctioning sensor or failed glow plugs - and that is causing the DPF regeneration to be cancelled. The first thing to do is connect a good OBDII reader like the Autel AP200 and get a list of any engine error codes.
@@BlueSky-ec7wn there are videos suggesting why the DPF fails and gets clogged. The first is failed pressure sensor that stops the cars own regeneration process. Thus checking the sensor will help prevent the DPf clog. Second is a failed glow plug as the Glow plug is needed as part of the cars own regen process while it adds that extra squirt of fuel tha will burn inside the DPF.
I gonna have ago in few days while its fixed to car by removing oxygen sensor will let you know how it goes am using acid wheel cleaner not diluted will leave 10min then using few bottles of mannol egr cleaner before an after :) then i will rinse out with cold water mixed with washing up liquid
Hi, I haven't experimented with any in-place cleaning yet - so I usually recommend to folk to use the Liqui-Moly product designed specifically for the purpose. If you do give it a go with any kind of acid then it would be best if the rinse water had dishwashing liquid or another mildly basic additive to neutralize the acid, as you really don't want to find out what any trapped super hot acid does to the metal in your exhaust system. You could use the EGR cleaner before and after the acid as that would loosen things up before and then help neutralize everything after. It will certainly be interesting to hear how the wild experiment goes! :-)
No reason why it should, but flow will be significantly increased so any variable mapping should be reset to 'learn' the factory determined targets with the changed characteristics.
Hi, thanks for watching! Newer cars should adapt, but older cars will need to be reset as they use a countdown system - so they will keep doing active regeneration cycles too often if they don't know about the 'new' DPF.
Hi, I'm pretty sure those don't have a cat - but it was around the time that cats were making an appearance on some diesels, so it is worth double checking if you can. Usually the DPFs that have a built in cat have 2 pressure sensors instead of 1.
@@carlosm6829 i can confirm 100% that n47 engine has both oxi cat and dpf in one housing! You can read about it by googling "n47 detailed pdf" its a big bmw user manual on the n47 engine.
What happened to the old dishwashing powder/tablet experiment where you found it worked very effectively... Would you do it as part of an acid wash cleaning like in this video?
Hi @Thomas, the pre-wash can be pH Up as featured in this video, but dishwasher tablets work well as does caustic soda drain cleaner or strong degreaser - if it dissolves oil then it will work well enough. The idea of the pre-wash is to get rid of enough crud so that the acid wash can get to the ash deposits.
@@StevenBTuner Hi. I already used the spray. It stopped limp mode, turned off DPF diode but service mode beeped bc high soot level. Can car stand on a slope so that the fluid poured in through o2 sensor's hole can flow sufficiently out from exhaust pipe and be collected with a bucket beneath it? What liquid can be used for this, brake cleaner fluid or DPF Cleaner 5l MA PROFESSIONAL 20-A92, acetone, ethanol/propyleth, 5l engine or rim cleaner, dishwasher/clothwasher detergent? What happens if your fluid in your video is used this way? Is it true that water can solidify like cement the ash in the DPF?
@@StevenBTuner Do you mean Liqui Moly 1L DPF cleaning fluid, can it be poured through oxygen sensor's opening? Is ultrasound cleaning liquid to pour directly?
@@frv6610 Hi, if you have soot clogging (rather than long term 'end-of-life' ash clogging) then you need to address the cause first, otherwise you will clean the DPF and then have to clean it again in 2 months. I have some other videos on possible causes such as EGR malfunction, sensor malfunction, turbo seal failure and boost leaks. And to answer your question: no, please don't try any of my methods to do in-place cleaning as left over chemicals that are not washed out of the DPF thoroughly will eat away either the ceramic material or the housing once high temperatures are reached. Also, ash in the DPF is a bit like cement for sure, and it maybe due to the large quantity of water that is produced when diesel is burnt.
My friend. soot counter 0 is displayed at the end of the cleaning process by your diag tool cause you,ve programmed a new dpf filter with your diag tool. Differential pressure at engine idle ia 3kp meaning 30mbar wich is a very high value. Not by far a clean filter. Full cloged dpf dif preasure is for 25mbar up so your 3kpa ...30mbar ia not a 100% success...not by a long shot
Hi, thanks for watching! The pressure reading can't be relied on until all of the water that is absorbed by the ceramic material has evaporated off - will probably take a few hours of driving.
This guy is the Dad we never had. He's awesome.
Haha, thanks!
Just finished a dpf filter on a Kubota diesel. No exhaust was going thru filter and someone removed a sensor to allow exhaust to come out of 1/4 inch opening only. We used the drain cleaner and acid wash method. Drain cleaner seemed to be effective in getting out oily substances. The acid wash we used was Muriatic acid and let it sit overnight. The next morning a lot of black soot came out but no red ash was detected. After thoroughly flushing we reinstalled into tractor. And after 2 days of drying, now the engine runs perfect and full exhaust is flowing thru filter. Running for approx. 1 hour no residuals of water/chemical were detected. The tractor definitely runs better now. Thanks for the DPF cleaning advice.
Hi, great to hear about a job well done! You left the acid for a lot longer than the 30 minutes that I did, so it is quite possible that the ash was completely broken down and so ended up colorless.
Why would you keep a dpf on a tractor?
@@StevenBTuner Someone has just mentioned Muriatic acid which I did not see in your test video. The question therefore is whether Muriatic acid was likely to be as harmless to the DPF as phosphoric acid and whether it may be more or less effective, considering the the Poster Jeffrey Buck left it overnight. It would be interesting to know if any technique may be developed to allow users reasonable prospect of successful cleaning just by filling through the O2 sensor or other accessible sensor position at the top? There are of course commercial products that are designed for this method, but unless Project Farm might test them all we don't really know that any of them are as effective as the chemicals you tested, especially considering you gave relatively short time for effective treatment to be proven possible
@@air5002 Hi, I have a separate vid about doing a full clean if you have an integrated catalyst: ruclips.net/video/LE1boZ3fhLg/видео.html , and in that video diluted HCl (muriatic acid) is used as the second stage cleaning step. The ceramic DPF material itself is not harmed by acids, but even weak HCl will attack steel/stainless steel, so you don't want to leave it in for more than 30 minutes if at all possible when used for a car. Phosphoric acid is much kinder to steel, but needs to be really strong to clean out the ash - which then makes it incompatible with the precious metals in the catalyst. You can see that each cleaning method involves a compromise. One thing I've noticed that even these strong chemicals don't dissolve everything, and it takes back-flushing with water to remove all of the residue left over from the cleaning - so it is my opinion that in-place cleaning can never be as good as cleaning that involves removal and back-flushing. I consider in-place cleaning to be more of a maintenance item that could be done every 2 years, for example, to extend DPF life.
In summary
A big thank you for this video.
I took mine out and after watching another video I started to clean with a simple water hose based gardening spary wand. I kept on with this it and kept extracting little 1cm solid and tubular blockage, I emptied a heavy duty degreaser and a huge amount of dissolved grease plus solid cubes kept comming out. More kept coming out when I lifted the DPF out of the water container and letting the water come in and then rush out.
I then I kept going untill I couldn't see any more coming out. Especially on the reverse flush with the wand.
But I kept seeing little oil slicks come out with occasional black cubes. Then i saw your video so I started with Calcium Lime Rust remover. Which contains phosphoric acid. I kept doing this many many times where I would spray 1/2 a CLR container directly and then wash it through. I kept getting 1cm bits so I kept doing the same multiple times and still getting small length of blocks.
I then started with a higher concentration of 1cup CLR in 2 ltrs about 5 times. This kept small blocks coming out (with water) especially when I would leave the water overnight as part of the final rinse and lifting and dunking the DPF till no more small bits came out. Since it kept only extracting small bits and no metal oxides, I then sprayed another full can of Heavy Duty degreaser and this time extracted a substantial amount of blocks and dissolved oil. This was followed with more lifting and dunking till no more blocks. I treid to use my Endoscope to see the results so used a hair drier to see better. But the hair drier had too much back pressure and it cut out.
So I used the last of 4 cans of degreaser and again rotated and left the solution sit on as much of the modules as possible. this again was followed with a water rinse with spray handle (sadly I bent the temp sensor) and dunk and final rinse. With the final dunk and lift i could finally hear the swish of the water flowing as I llifted and dunk the unit.
The Endoscope showed progress. So I started to dry it with my simple hair dryer and this time the air flow from the hair drier had improved substantially. I only saw a small amount of the metal oxides.
At $1.5 tommorrow I will put a total of 5 degreaser cans through and rinse it and inspect the water flow and then the air flow.
So far in total I've used *) a hand spray bottle of CLR *) 1.5 ltr of CLR concentrate watered down *) a huge lot of water to flush each cleaning session and *) 4 cans of degreaser.
I reckon if I had done the degreaser with a capacity to push the degreaser back and forth in 1/2 hr session (under a small amount of pressure) and then CLR I'd have saved days of work and hundred of ltrs of water.
I hope this helps others. PS mine is a Suzuki original DPF from a Grand Vitara 2010 1.9DDIS
Hi, that sounds like a very soot clogged DPF! Well done in your persistence!
As a final clean I'm emtying another 3 1/2 cans of degreaser (3 1/2 completely fills the chamber with the DPF modules fully imerced in a 2010 Suzuki Grand Vitara 1.9 DDIS. Laying it on its side I can rock it back and forth which works best.
I'll add a ful report when I'm finished.
This man saved me like 3k last year on my Volvo. did the fix for about $35. 25k KM later zero issues. That said, I feel scammed by how easy it was to remove the DPF on this car, I had to take apart half my engine to get the DPF out!
:-) Manufacturers try and put the DPF as close to the engine now to keep them as hot as possible, but you are right that it doesn't make removing them very easy!
@@StevenBTuner makes sense!
Hi, what car do you have? And what solution have you used to clean the filter? Tnx
@@antonnagy9565 bro did you not watch the video lol
@@4dalow650 i was asking @declaredsnow...
It can’t get any easier to understand how to clean your dpf
Well done mate and thank you
No problem 👍
Great video! might attempt this instead of paying someone else to do it. Would have been nice to weigh the thing before and after to get a rough idea of how much soot these things accumulate, for us geeks.
If you give it a go, then it would be great to hear how it went! A great idea, but the weighing would need to be done after the pieces were baked in an oven for a few hours as the ceramic sucks in water like a flower pot.
I used dishwasher powder (base) and brick soot cleaner (acid) based on your videos. It worked great for my 2.8L duramax colorado
Great to hear!
What an absolute maestro!
Thanks!
good video,
only thing i would say is that it reads zero at the end because you've reset it, basically telling the car that whatever the pressure difference is now, is zero.
Hi, on older cars the reset is a simple km/mile counter. New cars use differential pressure sensors and will notice a clean filter themselves.
I have done mine couple month ago and it is great! Thanks for advices aswell, my DPF is now 3-5kPa during idling.
Nice work!
@cernos, having a 3-4 kPa at idle is quite high. Maybe it's related to your model. What is the regeneration distance in km?
@@ploughable about 20-25 miles , up to 20 is ok and from then i didnt have any issue with it, before was once a month . I have a Volvo S60 D5 2008 185hp
@@cernos32 do you mean 200-250 miles between regenerations?
20-25 miles range is super bad... :/
@@ploughable icon on dash disappear after that range
Good information. Thanks. I'll soon do cleaning.
Thanks for watching, and all the best with the cleaning!
Thank you for all your job done!
You need an air compressor to dry the filter out (some say water drops may blast off cracking the ceramics). And why don't you use the oxalic acid - it is sold everywhere for water treatment systems as a powder? In the previous videos that acid demonstrated good results. HCL is considered as a drugs making part by the authorities in many countries and buying the brick cleaner adds unexpected chemicals to the cleaning process. By the way to rise the pressure you can use an old bmw pump.
Hi, the ceramic material absorbs quite a lot of water, but I'm not sure that there is any perfect method for drying it out. Fortunately the material seems to be very tough, so I'm not sure how likely cracking from steam expansion actually is - time for some testing! Acid availability seems to be very variable depending on the country, but keep an eye out for another oxalic acid test again soon!
Hey Steven, after studying the best way to clean my Cx-5 from 2016, I opted for a 3 stage cleaning without removing the DPF.
1. 2 L of Dish-washing liquid 50% then wash with 4 L of water with engine on
2. 1.5 L of Caustic Soda 10% ongine off then
wash 4 L of water with engine on
3. 2 L of NaCl 10% with engine off then 5 L of water with engine on.
I did all the operations using a compression sprau-gun with can, through the Diff pressure DPF larger tube :)
At the end I did a 20 km ride with the car with high rpm.
The results are quite good for now:
At 3000 rpm 10 kPa before -> 4.5 kPa now.
I will update how it goes in the future
Hi, thanks for sharing your method - be great to hear those future updates!
Thanks for tha amazing tip, regarding hydroponics suppliers ;)
Glad it helped you out!
hi steven! few days ago we talked about dpf filter cleaning.
I did it and was very difficult because at my car filter it is very complicated to take it out.
caddy tdi 1.6 .....any way,, I full it with dish washing tablets without remove completely..of course with delicate manner.
I left it 8-10 hours and I think is cleaned very well.
I reset dpf with diagnostic delphi 2017
And new result was 24.1 gr (62,7 gr before ) .
It worked and its breathe of excaust its better!
I saw your recent
experiment, well done!
When you servicing your injectors did ypu change o rings or left the same
Because its difficult to find new o'rings.
for high temperature and I am scared to take it out injectors without are broken
Hi, well done on doing the job yourself! You are the first person to report back about a DPF clean that used only the dishwasher tablets - and it's great to hear that it can make a good difference even without the acid wash. A 38 gram reduction in ash like that is probably equivalent to more than 5 years of driving.
You have very good content, I'm amazed that you don't have much more views. The only remark that I have is that you should've shown the differential pressure before and after cleaning.
Hi, thanks for watching! I had screen video capture of differential pressures at various RPM and loads, but unfortunately the video file got corrupted and wouldn't open in the video editor.
@@StevenBTuner Ah, too bad. Anyway, keep up the good work that you are doing here.
watched your other video using OXALIC ACID powder mixed 60 grams per litre of warm water for 4hrs and dishwasher tablet after 100% clean, cheers
Thanks for sharing that successful alternative!
Has that one exhaust really done 374,000 km? Definitely got one's money's-worth there. None of mine have lasted more than 160,000
Hi, local fuel ash percentage probably plays a big part. Where I am in Denmark it is usually around 240,000 when things block up.
Cool videos, Steven. I've been thinking about how an ultrasonic type cleaner could be lowered into the top chamber of the DPF during the chemical bathes with this videos setup. I would think that would be interesting to try. Maybe an ultimate setup would be a big bath heated type ultrasonic tub with a pump setup to reverse flow the DPF into a settling tank for the ash.
Hi, thanks for watching! Some professional DPF cleaning companies use ultrasonic cleaners as their cleaning method, so it definitely can be done. I bought a big ultrasonic cleaner to try, but for a one-off clean it ends up taking longer to do and is more hassle than the other chemical methods I have shown on the vids.
beautiful video
Thanks!
Hi Steven. I think the 76% is normal after forcing a regeneration on Opel cars. It also starts the conventional "regenerating while driving" process after the manual stationary one.
Hi, I'm not sure what you are referring to with the 76%. A good indication is the number of miles/kms between scheduled regeneration - as the filter fills up with ash the distance between cycles will become less and less.
@@StevenBTuner in the video you are referring to 76% dpf status after manual regeneration.
The 76% does not mean the manual regeneration didn't really work. It is just set this way by the ecu, so the car also das a conventional regeneration as soon as possible after the manual one.
The dpf percentage in the ecu is always just a calculated value (mileage since last generation, how many cold starts, etc) which is checked for plausibility with the differential pressure reported by the dpf dp sensor.
What i wanted to say: you can't trust the percentage
@@KilianGosewisch Hi, the 76% is the Cinder Count in the DPF. After each Regen a deposit is left behind which collects inside the DPF eventually completely blocking it.
For Instance, my DPF has a 90% cinder count with an estimated 17,000 miles of life before it is completely blocked. 90% is not the Regen. It is the residue left behind after the Regen.
Very useful information. Can you please do a similar chemical ash removal video on the newer VW TDI DPFs (2015 and above EA288 TDIs) which have the SCR and DPF combined on one single brick?
Hi, I haven't done any testing specifically on combined SCR systems. Mostly it is the diesel oxidation catalyst (DOC) that is in the same housing as the DPF material, and that is covered in my other video: ruclips.net/video/LE1boZ3fhLg/видео.html
Hi. Here in Norway I can only get my hands on Sodium Hydrogen Sulfate and Sodium Carbonate. It`s ment to take the Ph up/down in pools. Wondering if this would work? I have no idea if my car has DOC catalyst, It`s a Mercedes C-Class c200 OM646 engine 2005mod. Thanks for amazing video!
Hi, your car probably has a DOC. For the first stage you could use some industrial strength degreaser or dishwasher tablets. If you can force a regeneration before you remove the DPF then it shouldn't have much soot to remove anyway. All the best with the job!
We need more videos! You have done great job.
Thanks! I am planning lots of new stuff soon.
Excellent video -- mine is a 65 plate Ford C max 1.5tdci - with today - Fault codes P2463 - soot accumulation and Fault code P2455 DPF sensor circuit high. ---- I had a new sensor fitted two weeks ago - but problem persists ? Any thoughts from you would be much appreciated. Thank you
I wish I had used my endoscope pre starting to clean and some pregressive shots. My latest sticky beek into the up steam indicates a further more thorough clean rerquired. Water flow is is very good but hair dryer air flow was not to good.
Hi, it can take some time to dry out the ceramic even with an idling engine, so a low powered dryer is not the best indication.
The acid clean probably will slightly eat away at the glue holding the big square modules.
I own a 2012 Vauxhall/Opel Astra 1.7CDTi diesel @ just under 100k so very interested in your superb series of videos. I would say its showing the symptoms that require a deep clean - 'mandatory trys to regen and failing as this does not appear to yield any change. My motoring like most is short frequent trips with the occasional long journey, primarily on faster out of town highways rather than in a town/city. Potentially blocked as you have described in need of cleaning - so I am going to try your suggestions.
You mention most DPF's can actually be saved rather than scrapped, with this cleaning cycle. Given average use and deterioration of the materials within a DPF what should the real life expectancy of a DPF be in a well looked after vehicle - 50k, 100k, 200k or longer?
Hi, most cars get from 120 - 180k miles before they get ash clogged, and need a clean. Soot clogging can happen at any time, and indicates that there is an issue with the egr valve, glow plugs, or a sensor - resulting in the regeration failing. You will need connect a good diagnostic unit to verify which is most likely.
Heya, good video. Do you think a 2013 Mazda CX5 2.2 Diesel Skyactiv DPF has a CAT in it as well?
Hi, most diesel cars starting getting them from 2007 - 2010.
Hi. Thank you for the video. It does save us a lot of money.
I heard that after cleaning, you have to reset the DPF filter on the computer. I haven't got a computer, so I'm wondering how important this is? Wouldn't the computer just figure it out itself?
Welcome! It depends on the car whether you have to tell the computer that a new DPF has been installed - and is usually for cars built between 2000 and 2010. Newer cars have additional pressure sensors to calculate soot and ash volumes, so they don't need a crude mileage countdown system to be reset.
@@StevenBTuner Thank you again. I do have a pressure sensor, so I will leave it then.
Can you make a video how to clean catalytic convertor?
For older cars which do not have dpf.
What fluid is the best (acide or base), which also will not make demagen on it.
Thank you!
Hi, I know that some folk have followed the steps in my other video with success on gasoline catalytic convertors: ruclips.net/video/LE1boZ3fhLg/видео.html
Hi Steven, do you think it would be more effective and at the same time still safe to use warm/hot water with the acid.
You said that the Sodium Hydroxide should't be above 100°C but what about the acid. Generally speaking the warmer the quicker the chemical reaction, or not?
Over the years there have been a few chemists who have commented that it is definitely a good idea to start with hot water to make everything work faster.
@@StevenBTuner So there is no safety concern with hot acid damaging the silicon carbide like there is with the sodium hydroxide
I find acetic acid in particular is dramatically more effective in all its cleaning uses above 50°C, and 50 is well below the 100°C safety margin.
Great info Thanks & keep up the Good Work👍🍺
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video, Thanks
Glad you liked it! If a DIY DPF clean is something that you are contemplating then my favorite method is still the one featured in this vid: ruclips.net/video/LE1boZ3fhLg/видео.html
Hey Steven, im working on a car with a soot-contaminated DPF (from lots of low speed driving). I'd like to avoid removing the DPF for cleaning if possible. I'm thinking that running a few litres of degreaser or similar into the upstream pressure sensor tube, let it sit for a half an hour, and then run the engine for a bit to blow it out the tailpipe, should flush out the soot? Might take a few rounds... The idea being to bring the soot levels down to the point where it can start doing active regens again to manage future soot buildup. Are there any faults to my logic?
Hi, some cars are more likely to suffer from soot build-up due to low speed driving than others. From talking to friends who have exactly that issue, they have found that the 'DPF Clean' fuel tank additives do in fact help by reducing the temperature that the soot burns off (changes from carbon to carbon dioxide). Adding degreaser will loosen up any oil, but won't help to lower the oxidation temperature - so the soot (carbon) particles will remain stuck in the very fine DPF matrix.
very good video!!! i have an peugeot 2014 expert and changed the filter a year ago,now with mot inspection the filter is realeasing to (5 miljoen)much particles...still have the old filter and want to clean it with vinager ,leave it in there for a few days and then back flush it???and how is it that the mounted new filter is exeeding the limit,could it be burned so its leaking from wall to wall in stead of filtering???doesn t seem to be blocked???
Hi, it is very common for those Peugeot filters to be cracked, so you will probably need a replacement. As an emergency measure you could add 2 bottles of Liqui-Moly Diesel Stop Smoke to a half full fuel tank - and that will maybe get you through a test.
Bravo again Steven👍
:-) :-)
Hi. Very informative series of videos! Thanks.
I purchased the autel ap200 for my nissan X trail. However I don't get the option to replace the dpf (only to reset it or do a regen) nor does it seem to have the dpf specific live data.
Is this just a case of "tough luck" due to the model of car maybe?
Hi, the AP200 emulates the manufacturer's diagnostic system - so what features you get varies quite a lot between the brands. I hope you still find it a worthwhile purchase...and of course it will gain some features when you get a BMW ;-)
thank you for your valuable advice. a question. to clean a dpf with built-in catalyst on euro 6 cars. which video and which products do you recommend?. sorry for the translation, a warm greeting from Italy
Hello to Italy! For your DPF you should look at my other video: The No Damage DIY DPF Clean.
I would like to know the strength of the acid used -can you link a page of details
Hello Steven ! If a recall very well, in the No damage DIY dpf cleaner video you used concentrated (32%) HCL....you diluted it with water in 1:4 ratio, that's bringing the concentration to 8%.....here you are talking of 6-7% concentration, any concentration above this being aggressive on the stainless steel housing, am confused, please make it more clear. Thanks
Hi, I think I go through the numbers in the first video...but to clarify: 1 part acid plus 4 parts water gives a total of 5 parts, so take 32% and divide by 5, which gives 6.4% strength (which is sort of 6-7%). At the end of the day it won't matter too much whether you are a bit off with the mixing, you just don't want over 10% or your stainless steel will probably end up going rusty!
Thanks so much for the explanation Steven....I have already bought NaoH + HCL.....will do this tomorrow. Thanks once again
@@StevenBTunerGreetings! I have successfully cleaned my Megane 1.5 dci clogged dpf, now my car is super performing, thanks Steven for your Videos.
What would you suggest plugging the holes with, particularly when using brick acid? Thank you.
Hi, I used PETG 3d printed plastic, but a plug made from wood, plastic or silicon would work well enough.
Try using aluminium brightener I would like to see if it would do anything
Be worth a test!
Brilliant video thank u 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Welcome!
hi steven, i will use phosphoric acid but should it be used without diluting the whole for DPF or should I add 81% phosphoric acid and 19% water?
Hi, if you use phosphoric acid then you will need to use it at 81% or stronger.
@@StevenBTuner Thank you steven 🙏
Good video Steven 😃
Many thanks!
hello Steven l los your message about caustic soda and acid how many use
Dear Steven, what do you recommend to do to completely rinse out or neutralize residual acid? I am asking as there was a comment from some chemist's that after the process you presented there still might be an issue with acid left.
Hi, use lots of water with some dishwashing detergent, and flush through forwards and backwards.
Hello Steven. Fantastic videos. Keep up the education. I have an issue if you can shed some light with your wonderful know-how. I have a auris which i am continously cleaning the dpf with brick cleaner, dish washer tablets and sodium hydroxide (all with instant and great results). problem is it gets bunged up again about a month later. Could the type of oil ime using be at fault, its C2 mid saps (normally burn about half a litre a month) recommended by dealer. Should i switch to C1 or C2 which are low saps ? (engine about 100k, ime in the uk). Thanks
Hi, that sounds like quite a lot of oil usage, and I expect that your car would be using low saps - but if it isn't then there is a reason, and you shouldn't go against the manufacturer recommendation. However, you definitely shouldn't be having to clean out out your filter more than once every 150,000 miles or you have some other system failure that is stopping the active regeneration from working properly. Connecting a good OBDII code reader like the Autel AP200 is definitely worth doing to see if the EGR valve or glow plugs etc are throwing up errors.
@@StevenBTuner Thanks for reply. Apparantly its normal/common on the auris. Do you thinking blanking the egr will help ? i mean the soot and crap might be building up because of that.
@@jasonbonde9630 EGR valves work great when everything else is working well, but when the engine gets a bit older and burns a bit of oil due to valve stem seals, piston rings etc - that burn oil gets fed back through the intake system and helps fill the egr valve and intake manifold with oily gunk.
I have a 2014 GLK 250 Bluetec, my question is am I safe to use phosphoric acid and if so what percent should I dilute it down to?. There is a seperate "CAT" infront of the DPF and the SCR Cat behind it. If not I will play it safe and use muriatic acid and dilute it down to 5-8%.
Hi, thanks for watching! For a 2014 car it is definitely better to go for the more dilute HCl/muriatic acid clean as featured in my other vid: ruclips.net/video/LE1boZ3fhLg/видео.html
If using drain cleaner or dishwasher tablets, do you dilute it the same way as with pH up?
And does it have to be this very pH down / up product or can it also be from another brand?
Hi, with drain cleaner try 1 : 10 mix - it should be okay unless the filter is really oily. With the pH Down products there can be a range of ingredients, but it is best to go for those made of phosphoric acid so that they don't do any harm to the metals. The websites sometime tell you what acids are in each brand, but if not then it will take a bit of googling to find the safety data sheet.
Hey Steven! Great video keep it up!
Thanks! Will do!
Steven I have really big problem with my Mercedes C220 Dpf is blocked I spent lot of money but the problem is still there I need your suggestion I should I do
@@Lala9255 Hi, if your car has a catalyst section in the DPF housing then you can use this method: ruclips.net/video/LE1boZ3fhLg/видео.html
Where did you get the plugs for the exhaust and the bracket from where you cut the exhaust? Thanks.
Hi, thanks for watching! I 3D-printed the plastic plugs, but you could make them out of cork or wood too. The exhaust was joined together using some exhaust joining clamps from an auto parts store.
I used "calcium lime rust" and think I might have damaged the DPF. The packet said not to use on marble (RTFM)
I took out the DPF stra6ted with a straight water back wash and lost of soot came out. I then used 2 cans of degreaser and lots more soot came out and a tiny amount the red chromates you got in your videos. The DPf are often made from cordierite. Did I fk up my DPF???
Also there is videos suggesting why the DPF fails and gets clogged the first is failed pressure sensor that stops the cars own regeneration process. Thus checking the sensor will help prevent the DPf clog. Second is a failed glow plugt as the Glow plug is needed as part of the cars own regen process while it adds that extra squirt of fuel tha will burn in the DPF.
Hi, you will have to check the safety datasheet to see exactly what it is in the product, but if anything is going to be damaged by acid it will be the metal first, so I think you will be okay.
Some of the iron oxide ash came out and when I picked them out and left them in my water/CLR mix (mixed at a cup of CLR with 2lt of water ) the red blocks didn't get touched even after hours of soaking.
But the water flow has improved dramtically after multiple multiple cleans (over 10-15 clenaing cycles), with the CLR and a cheap pressure water hose.
Still more to be done.
I'll stop when ash blocks stop coming out.
I reckon that since the DPF is hundreds of long holes and complete bocking happens over time the cleaning will softebn and release in lots of small incraments.
Chemically clean DPF and Force regenerationis £200 a fair price for local mechanic to do this
Sounds fair to me.
Just wondering injector cleaner might be good or b12 berryman s.Some car products might be good that used to remove carbon :)
I will add it to my next DPF cleaning experiment!
Have you tried any if this while on the car? Looking for a last ditch effort to regain power while i wait on newer light weight parts
Hi, I haven't used any of these for in-place cleaning. You could try the Liqui Moly product if the DPF is too difficult to remove.
Hi. Can you tell me wether a dpf has any precious metals in them. I understand that some cats and dpfs are in the same can but I mean in the dpf core only. I don't believe there is but many people say there is and precious metals will be washed out.
The DPF part is usually Silicone Carbide. It is an amazing space-age material, but is worth about $5.
hi steven thanks for the video. How much to use the ph reducer, should it use 2 liters of water to half a liter like ph down, or should it use the ph down directly to the filter?
If I use HCL instead of ph down, is it okay if I use 25% hcl as 75% water?
Hi, you have to check what the pH Down is made of. If is phosphoric acid then you can use it at 85%, for HCl you want a final strength of 6%.
@@StevenBTuner Thank you steven, thank you also for the information.
Muchas gracias me ahorraste miles de dólares, saludos desde Atlanta USA!
Eres muy bienvenido!
How do I get diagnostik for Dpf regeracion to burn it then to add it like I replace it same as show in this video
A good OBD2 reader will have DPF functions. Newer cars after 2014 will automatically adjust to a cleaned DPF, but most cars before 2010 will need to have the DPF total kms reset before the DPF light will go away.
Is there any explanation for the increase of oil level caused by DPF clogging? If so, what is the cause? (Diesel engine scenario)
Hi, the increasing oil level is caused by the additional diesel being injected to heat up the DPF during an active regeneration. On this car the filter was so blocked that a regeneration was being scheduled every 50 kms, resulting in enough diesel getting past the piston rings to raise the level on the dipstick. I thinks I should do a video about it :-)
@@StevenBTuner thanks a lot for the detailed answer. 👍 Then there is a need of oil change...
:-) Absolutely! Oil thinned with diesel doesn't do a very good job of keeping your conrod bearings and conrods safely separated.
hi Steve. Does the Autel Work for Audi, BMW, VW and Fiat?
thank you
Hi, the features available vary quite a lot between manufacturers, so I can only say that I think it works better for BMW than for any other brand.
@@StevenBTuner ok fair enough. But it does work for other brands, correct?
way the oil that im using is Acea C2 which i believe is mid-saps - would it really be harmful to use Acea C1 which is low saps (Its got 0.5 sulphated ash compared to C2 which has 0.8) ??? Many thanks in advance
Hi, there are so many factors and so much testing that goes into the oil standards that are recommended by manufacturers, that it would be irresponsible for me to make a general comment regarding your particular car. Sometimes the low saps oil isn't recommended by the manufacturer because at the date of manufacture, the low saps oil standard didn't exist - so if you can see that your exact engine model was given different oil recommendations as the years progressed (with no changes to the actual engine), then it could be that the later lower saps variant would probably be okay to use, but you will need to do a lot of digging to confirm this.
@@StevenBTuner Thanks for all your help.
C2 is mid saps c3 mid/liw saps and c4 low saps
I wonder where "ALONG" each small tube of the DPF does the metalic oxice ash build up. At the entry or the exit or at random.
Hi, from my dissections, it fills up from the exhaust end first.
Hi Steve
I got all the soot out and measured the depth of a few of the tiny tunnels from the gas exit end with a thin spring wire I straightened out. All good.
I then measured the depths of the tiny channels from the inlet end and many stopped (clogged) at around 5 inches short of full depth some even more.
I'll have to get the phosphoric acid and give that a go.
Or I might use WD40 as their blurb says it disolves Rust (FeO)
@@alexschulz8791 Hi, the best ash dissolving results I get are with the 6-7% hydrochloric acid solution along with lots of shaking and forward and reverse flushing. The phosphoric acid is more metal-friendly, but sometimes you need the raw power. Wear good protective glasses, gloves and clothing!
@@StevenBTuner 1 ltr of phosphoric acid did a lot of disolving and plenty of red came out. But 1ltr is not enough to really clean the whole depth. Thus I'll make the HCL solution to get to the last of the DPF. Cross fingers.
@@alexschulz8791 That'll be one clean DPF by the time you've finished! :-)
in some of your previous videos you tested wheel cleaner and it showed well
can in be used to clean dpf wit catalitic ?
Hi, I much prefer finding 'pure' generic chemicals whenever possible because things like wheel cleaner can be made of so many different things, and at wildly different concentrations. Acid based wheel cleaners can contain phosphoric or oxalic acid, both of which will probably dissolve DPF ash, but I haven't done any testing yet to make sure they won't damage the catalyst materials or the steel / stainless steel case.
I'd like to wash a dpf with a dishwasher tab, do I need to remove the sensors or is it fine to leave them in?
Hi, a dishwasher tab won't hurt the sensor, and even the acid 2nd stage has been done by plenty of people where the sensor wouldn't come out, and all was okay.
@@StevenBTuner Thanks for the answer and huge thanks for making all these quality videos.
I'm not entirely positive the DPF is paired with a CAT, but I am fairly certain the dishwasher tab wouldn't damage it.
شكرا جزيلا
أنا سعيد لأنها ساعدتك
Hi Steven, can acid be 75%? It's hard to get 80% where I live.
Hi, the HCl and NaOH featured in my other video (The No Damage DIY DPF Clean) are cheaper, easier to find, and work better - so that would be my recommended method.
What about rubbing alcohol is that any good
Hi, alcohol doesn't do anything to the deposits. The ash deposits need something acidic to dissolve them.
Wonder if this method is better than the liquid Molly method
Hi, the in-place cleaning methods are easier, but will need to be repeated more often as it is difficult to get the chemical into every part of the filter.
Will a occasionally a longer high rpm and/or a full throttle acceleration not blast the dirt out of the dpf?
Hi, thanks for watching! The soot (carbon) in the DPF is burnt off regularly by your car (active regeneration) or can also be burnt off with a good long drive (passive regeneration). However, this video is more concerned with removing the ash which builds up in the filter over 100,000 to 150,000 miles, and mostly comes from compounds in your engine oil which can't be burnt away.
Yes i know. But will occasionally hard driving remove the ash? And will it help to prevent the ash buildup from happening or slowering the buildup from happening?
Hi, driving hard might burn a bit more oil and a will definitely burn more diesel and therefore *increase* how quickly ash forms. As a vehicle owner, the way to reduce ash buildup is to follow the manufacturer's recommended 'low ash' engine oil standard when buying oil (or make sure your mechanic does), and to use good quality diesel fuel (most car diesel worldwide is now ultra low ash as standard, so you only have to avoid using marine or farm diesel).
Hi, just a question. I've been watching a few of your DPF cleaning videos and followed up with the heavy duty degreaser followed by brick acid. I left the heavy duty degreaser sitting inside for 3 or 4 days (repeatedly pouring it back through). I then tried the process with brick acid but diluting it down and only letting it sit for 20 minutes. The degreaser cleaned a lot of oily soot deposits but after all the hours of rinsing brick acid through I was still left with what I think is the solid block of ash inside, poking a screw driver through I was able to scrape away at it but nothing broke it down. Coincidentally I also have a Vauxhall astra DPF filter very similar to the one used in this video. After the week of cleaning I reinstalled it and got the same error message P244B DPF pressure too high(indicates full). What should I do !? Please any help is great, thanks.
Hi, if car has dumped a lot of oil in the DPF, or if the filter was completely clogged with soot as a result of another engine or EGR issue then it can be almost impossible to clean it without using extreme heat (video coming soon). If it is only ash that is clogging up things then the color will be between white and red (and you will need to do more acid washing), but if it oil or soot then it will be black (and you may need to scrape it out or gently blast it with a pressure washer - but not too closely, in order to expose the ceramic material ready for an acid wash).
@@StevenBTuner I had no colour difference when rinsing with brick acid and water. Definitely a lot of black came out with the first few rinses of degreaser. The vehicle was likely running on 1/4 glow plugs for a while too, amongst other things I think its definitely fair to say its had a lot of oil dumped through.
Hi, sounds like a second round of cleaning might be in order. Using a higher concentration of acid is more likely to eat away a bit of the metal housing, but if you can´'t get the gunk out then the filter is for the scrapheap anyway, so there is not much to lose.
Hi do you know other products if we cant find ph down and up ?
Hi, check out my other video: The No Damage DIY DPF Clean.
is it easy to ruin a filter cleaning it with the correct chemicals? i have VW amarok with a clogged filter and i think its also a CAT setup. what do you reccommand i use? in AUS
Hi, if you have an integrated cat then it is best to check out my other video called The No Damage DIY DPF Clean.
@@StevenBTuner hi Steve can you please point to to that link? thank you, i am enjoying your videos
@@lapuskit Here it is: ruclips.net/video/LE1boZ3fhLg/видео.html
How about cutting the dpf off and throwing it in the rubbish bin...?
Haha, you've taken a wrong turn and ended up on a channel where we fix stuff rather than just throw away the things we don't like ;-)
Was the car used a 1.3l diesel corsa? What year? I have similar engine.
Hi, it is a 2007 Corsa 1.3cdti. A very well designed engine with amazing fuel economy and reliability - even with that high mileage it is still running the original turbo, egr valve and the intake has never been clogged up. The same engine is in some Ford, Peugeot, Citroen and Fiat models too.
@@StevenBTuner thanks, I have a 2008 corsa.
Can you wash out a dpf on a Nissan qashqai 2014
Hi, thanks for watching! For a 2014 vehicle I would recommend my 2 stage chemical wash: ruclips.net/video/LE1boZ3fhLg/видео.html
Hi I was about to order alloy wheel cleaner for my dpf but it says it's hydrochloric acid not phosphoric acid is there much difference and will either of these be safe to use.
Hi, I have the best results with a 2 stage wash, where the 2nd stage is 6% HCl flushed and back-flushed for 30 minutes. It is covered in my other video: The No Damage DIY DPF Clean.
Hello Steven ! If a recall very well, in the No damage DIY dpf cleaner video you used concentrated (32%) HCL....you diluted it with water in 1:4 ratio, that's bringing the concentration to 8%.....here you are talking of 6% concentration, am confused, please make it more clear. Thanks
Hi, what chemical stage do you recommend That is safe to do a full dpf clean that i can perform on a Sept 2012 Honda Accord 2.2 I-DTEC with 95k on the clock with up-to-date full main dealer service history and the dpf has never been removed before its had 4 static regenerations in the past 5 months and im guessing the ash content/particulate matter, is getting higher and higher that is why its wanting to regenerate every 300 or so miles more and more.
Ive been recommended to take it to Halfords for a deep clean for £85.00 but im not keen on them working on it only to take it back to them a month later, can you help?
Hi, unless you have been using the wrong type of oil or filling your car with old farm diesel, then I wouldn't expect it to be ash-clogged quite yet - maybe after 150k miles it would certainly benefit from a full removal and clean. The 300 mile regeneration interval isn't too bad either. What symptoms are causing you to look for a problem to fix?
@@StevenBTuner Dpf light stays on a it's in continual limp mode and wont passively regenerate even after 1 hour of motorway driving.
What makes you think it has had cheap oil in it?
As stated in my above comment if read correctly, it has full main dealer service history and i dont believe they would use cheap non-standard oil in it?
Regards to fueling,
It either has Shell v-power or Esso synergy+ diesel .
Farm diesel??.
Ive covered 20k miles in the 18 months ive owned the vehicle with a good mix of A/B roads and duel carriage/ motorway driving.
I don't know how the vehicle has been driven previously to my ownership?
I am going forward with the process of elimination, there may be an underlying issue elsewhere with it, i dont know.
You dont get any notification to go by when it wants to do a regeneration, just a "ping" on the dash and throws itself in to "Teddy mode".
Hi, what I'm saying is that it is very unlikely that your filter is the issue. It is much more likely that you have an issue with a stuck EGR valve or a malfunctioning sensor or failed glow plugs - and that is causing the DPF regeneration to be cancelled. The first thing to do is connect a good OBDII reader like the Autel AP200 and get a list of any engine error codes.
@@BlueSky-ec7wn there are videos suggesting why the DPF fails and gets clogged.
The first is failed pressure sensor that stops the cars own regeneration process. Thus checking the sensor will help prevent the DPf clog.
Second is a failed glow plug as the Glow plug is needed as part of the cars own regen process while it adds that extra squirt of fuel tha will burn inside the DPF.
I gonna have ago in few days while its fixed to car by removing oxygen sensor will let you know how it goes am using acid wheel cleaner not diluted will leave 10min then using few bottles of mannol egr cleaner before an after :) then i will rinse out with cold water mixed with washing up liquid
Hi, I haven't experimented with any in-place cleaning yet - so I usually recommend to folk to use the Liqui-Moly product designed specifically for the purpose. If you do give it a go with any kind of acid then it would be best if the rinse water had dishwashing liquid or another mildly basic additive to neutralize the acid, as you really don't want to find out what any trapped super hot acid does to the metal in your exhaust system. You could use the EGR cleaner before and after the acid as that would loosen things up before and then help neutralize everything after. It will certainly be interesting to hear how the wild experiment goes! :-)
@@StevenBTuner will do that :)
@StevenBTuner what happens if use boiling water mixed with wheel cleaner acid
Heating up things always makes the chemical reactions work quicker.
@StevenBTuner so with engine running should be good
Do you have a link for the phone app you use on the video?
I don't recall - when was a phone app used in this vid?
I think they mean the MaxiAP200 app being used with your Autel AP200.
what happens if you clean the dpf and do not reset it with scan tool? will it throw a code?
No reason why it should, but flow will be significantly increased so any variable mapping should be reset to 'learn' the factory determined targets with the changed characteristics.
Hi, thanks for watching! Newer cars should adapt, but older cars will need to be reset as they use a countdown system - so they will keep doing active regeneration cycles too often if they don't know about the 'new' DPF.
@@StevenBTuner Thanks for the reply!
@@StevenBTuner I wonder if a 2005 530d uses a countdown timer?
@@randohoim Hi, yes those earlier models had fewer sensors, so they rely on estimating how long the DPF will last.
N47 177cv 2007, dpf only or dpf + cat? Thanks master
Hi, I'm pretty sure those don't have a cat - but it was around the time that cats were making an appearance on some diesels, so it is worth double checking if you can. Usually the DPFs that have a built in cat have 2 pressure sensors instead of 1.
@@StevenBTuner thanks !! Good job ;)
@@carlosm6829 i can confirm 100% that n47 engine has both oxi cat and dpf in one housing! You can read about it by googling "n47 detailed pdf" its a big bmw user manual on the n47 engine.
@@ciepularys thanks! ;)
yes, its dpf and cat in one housing
Who has a rusty old non-catalyzing style DPF that needs cleaning?
I have Camry 2007, is this method suitable to clean the catalytic converter of my car?
What happened to the old dishwashing powder/tablet experiment where you found it worked very effectively... Would you do it as part of an acid wash cleaning like in this video?
@@alengine94 you do no not need to clean a cat. There is nothing to clean.
Hi @Thomas, the pre-wash can be pH Up as featured in this video, but dishwasher tablets work well as does caustic soda drain cleaner or strong degreaser - if it dissolves oil then it will work well enough. The idea of the pre-wash is to get rid of enough crud so that the acid wash can get to the ash deposits.
@Zaid Alzaidi, this cleaning video is not for use on a catalytic converter.
which method do you recommend for dpf with cat?
Hi, my favorite method is still the one featured in my other vid: The No Damage DIY DPF Clean.
@@StevenBTuner 25% HCL 75% water? is safe for cat?
@@StevenBTuner ok sorry, i found the answer...for dpf+cat => 5% hydrochloric acid solutions
WoW
:-)
Is it possible to pour the cleaner fluid directly through the oxygen sensor's hole without removing the DPF?
Hi, this process is not designed for that. You could try the product from Liqui Moly that is specifically designed for in-place cleaning.
@@StevenBTuner Hi. I already used the spray. It stopped limp mode, turned off DPF diode but service mode beeped bc high soot level. Can car stand on a slope so that the fluid poured in through o2 sensor's hole can flow sufficiently out from exhaust pipe and be collected with a bucket beneath it? What liquid can be used for this, brake cleaner fluid or DPF Cleaner 5l MA PROFESSIONAL 20-A92, acetone, ethanol/propyleth, 5l engine or rim cleaner, dishwasher/clothwasher detergent? What happens if your fluid in your video is used this way? Is it true that water can solidify like cement the ash in the DPF?
@@StevenBTuner Do you mean Liqui Moly 1L DPF cleaning fluid, can it be poured through oxygen sensor's opening? Is ultrasound cleaning liquid to pour directly?
@@frv6610 Hi, if you have soot clogging (rather than long term 'end-of-life' ash clogging) then you need to address the cause first, otherwise you will clean the DPF and then have to clean it again in 2 months. I have some other videos on possible causes such as EGR malfunction, sensor malfunction, turbo seal failure and boost leaks. And to answer your question: no, please don't try any of my methods to do in-place cleaning as left over chemicals that are not washed out of the DPF thoroughly will eat away either the ceramic material or the housing once high temperatures are reached. Also, ash in the DPF is a bit like cement for sure, and it maybe due to the large quantity of water that is produced when diesel is burnt.
My friend. soot counter 0 is displayed at the end of the cleaning process by your diag tool cause you,ve programmed a new dpf filter with your diag tool. Differential pressure at engine idle ia 3kp meaning 30mbar wich is a very high value. Not by far a clean filter. Full cloged dpf dif preasure is for 25mbar up so your 3kpa ...30mbar ia not a 100% success...not by a long shot
Hi, thanks for watching! The pressure reading can't be relied on until all of the water that is absorbed by the ceramic material has evaporated off - will probably take a few hours of driving.
@@StevenBTuner If I'm right you were driving the car at the same time so the differential pressure can't be down
Can you do a test with coca cola and put some mentors in it 👍🙏
Haha, it would be a fun test!