hey don't forget to thank whichever one of your kids provided us with such an unintentionally great example of ikea cabinet repair... surely very useful to know... :)
Nice work. For things like this I use Rock Hard Putty which is really easy to work with and strong once it dries. I actually used some the other day to repair my door framing where the strike plate screws in.
Replace all the shelf support plastic pins with metal pins from your big box store. Quick and easy replacement and no more worries about the shelves coming down. I did this and it helps alot.
Personally for ripped hinges like this I just grab some wood dowels. I drill the hole to the size of the dowel and wood glue it in, trim it flush And screw the hinge back into the new wood. Haven't had one fail yet.
Since this is in your child's room, and is next to the wall, an alternative repair would be to drill the damaged hole all the way through the cabinet side. Then use an appropriately sized machine screw , washer and nut (acorn nut) to remount the hinge. It would look good from my house! I enjoy watching allyour vids and have learned a lot from them.
Used exactly that when I redid our kitchen but keeping old carcasses and doors (vinyl stripped, repainted, and tarted up ofc, along with new worktops + floor). Got plates hidden behind trims, kickboards fixed into cabs, all sorts. Feel for whoever has to dismantle the thing though because it's now so non-standard it could be a Hollywood actress' smile line. Although now I'm having to go the epoxy route too because my other half is basically Gozer-The-Destroyer and likes ripping screws out of doors. Stay puft guys.
For lining up the hole center.. Use a combination square and line up the centers.. trace an "x" and drill there.. No tape measure and eyeballing needed.
I use 5 min. epoxy/ liquid steel all the time for repairs. That reminds me, I need to pick up a fresh package of epoxy. A lot of people would toss a cabinet because of damage like that so it's good to show how easily repairs can be made. Well done.
@@thezfunk I do love me some old school JB. But man- it’s pretty runny, and has a long set time. Unless it’s a repair that needs a bulletproof connection, I typically use 5 minute or Steelstick these days.
Good advice in the redue Reno I got going on some cabinet mounting holes for the hardware were damaged. I couldn’t find a reasonable solution. Not just little people causing damage. Shit stain Tennants are giving me a massive amount of work to remodel the condo I have. Your videos are definitely a useful resource.
CA blues work great; start with an ultra thin CA which will soak into the particle board and help stabilize and strengthen it then dust it with baking powder and hit it with a medium viscosity glue in layers to make a paste/plug. The baking powder works both as a filler and catalyst; the resulting fill sets hard in seconds, can be worked with wood tools, and is a translucent to solid white depending on amount of baking soda. You can also follow the thin CA with a thick CA glue to mostly fill the hole then spray some catalyst on the part to be inserted and press it in; the glue will grab nearly instantly and will set solid in minutes; just don’t plan on an easy removal. I like CA glues as specially when combined with catalysts including backing soda, and actually carry an old chalk refill bottle with baking soda just for glue jobs. I also carry epoxy putties which I prefer over liquid epoxies for filling and traditional PVA and polyurethane glues as well. Tech has changed a lot over the years and glues are one area where you should change with it as they make life easier and can be stronger than traditional fasteners, in some instances.
@@drasco61084: Yes, baking soda, baking soda is typically just a single ingredient: sodium bicarbonate. Baking powder is a two, or more ingredient pre-mixed powder which includes both an acid and base so it can cause say muffins to rise. Baking soda and vinegar are the go to volcano instigator for kids, though the same reaction can occur with baking powder and water. I keep a large box of baking soda in the garage as it has a number of good uses as well as keeping some in an old chalk refill squeeze bottle exclusively for use with CA glues; I also have liquid pump and aerosol activators as well.
I had a similar issue, but on the door side of the hinge, which has a recessed pocket. It was a bit of a mess: previous repair had been with plastic wood filler, which wasn't holding. What I did, and this'd work on the cabinet side too, albeit might be overkill, and would be difficult with the cabinet in place: I drilled out a large diameter pocket, 1" dia if I recall correctly, with a forstner bit, not all the way throught, maybe 1/8" less than full depth. Then I cut a "puck" of (1" dia) hardwood dowel, slightly shorter than the the hole depth, coated the hole and puck with wood glue, and tapped the puck in gently with a hammer, aiming to get the top face flush and level. Wipe any squeezed out glue off the top with a damp cloth, let cure, lightly sand, and you're back to square one, have competent wood to work with.
Worked as a cleaner in dental surgeries ironically enough, where nurses would often knock doors off hinges like that. I used to pack the resulting holes with the small plastic cotton buds or matchsticks or wooden skewers and found small drywall screws gave good grip in the repair. Whatever I had handy and always carried screwdriver, hammer, screws, matchsticks etc ready for the next disaster!
fill with wood glue or gorilla glue or crazy glue then shove in the screw and tape on top to hold in place. remove tape in a few hours. no need for drilling.
Glue is golden for repairs. I bought a new coffee table a few days ago and one of the screws for the legs had no threads (it was a cheap table). Filed in some groves + Epoxy = fixed.
The included hardware on some stuff is complete garbage... I've gotten some of those too with no threads..others where the screw head tore off while driving it into the material with the specified pilot hole size.
May I suggest using a speed square for transferring measurements of the hole? I also noticed that you struggled using your Philips screwdriver bit on this "blum" European hinge. The screws are in fact very similar to the Philips but are called "Pozidriv". The difference is in the tip of the bit.
I’ve done the same repair using JB Weld and if I had the pieces Gorilla glue and a clamp. Both repairs held just fine. With the hole being complete filled with the epoxy, you probably didn’t need to you the plastic insert.
@@vancouvercarpenter they're not as rare as moon rocks. Just head out to Canadian Tire and pick up a Mastercraft one. They are nice to have when you need to measure in metric. I have a couple metric tapes.👍
Good fix. JB weld or epoxy seem to work pretty well in this situation, though I was a little surprised epoxy fasteners don't do as well as new wood when objectively tested. Hopefully your kids learned the lesson and won't swing on a door hinge again. That side will be weaker, forever, but I don't know of any better, easy option.
In dental they are called " under cuts" used in silver or amalgam fillings. Not widely used, acrylic much better and popular because you don't remove good tooth structure.
My boss has built an all-wood kayak and a small wooden boat and used a fair amount of marine epoxy on each, and now he uses it for all sorts of random repairs like this. The stuff is incredibly strong.
Good idea for some types of hinges, but on the ikea furniture type it would require an even larger patch on the door where the hinge is pressed into a large bored out circle.
It's amazing that in the furniture industry all use mfc. Even high end. I make cabinets and use birch plywood for the carcasses. So much tougher and looks good just oiled. But I guess mfc is ready finished so get why it's used.
I would have suggested to predrill the hole and only use the screw by cutting off the plastic plug all together. Then the mechanical connection is only between the screw and the epoxy and you don't have to worry about the expansion plug breaking or pulling out the epoxy.
I have a small repair, well it started out about fist size. It’s now at least a foot in all directions 😂 So happy to have an excellent RUclips teacher as well as a college teacher!
Oh, and in my house, climbing on shelves or swinging on doors (especially the car door) was one of the gravest violations a kid could make. Like take the xbox away for a MONTH grave... I never had much of a problem with it :)
I just finished painting and putting down new floor in the upstairs hall bathroom and one issue with the sink was it had pulled away from the wall. Over the years the floor has settled and people putting pressure on the sink made the right side push down and the left side pull away from the wall leaving a gap. Great place for bugs to hide! I removed the door and drilled several holes and counter sunk screws into the frame to screw it tight to the wall. Since it's only screwing into drywall I had to use several screws to get a good grip. Once the door was back on it was still leaning to the right. The door is heavy oak and just weighs down towards the floor. So I took a strip of the flooring which is about an eighth of an inch thick and drilled a hole and put it under the lower hinge so it sticks out further than the top hinge. That made the door level again. There are lots of tricks you can use to fix things around the house. Another example is the metal and glass rack over the toilet wasn't level. Removing the anchors left big holes. How do you drill a new hole that's level when there is already a hole in the wrong place? One way is to fill the holes with mud and drill new ones somewhere else, or just widen the existing hole so that it's level with the other and use cardboard (or wood shims) to fill in the gap. The anchor will expand and push against the cardboard and be just as tight as if it was drywall. I wouldn't climb on it, but I wouldn't climb on it if it was solid drywall either.
I use West Systems epoxy, it's Pro-Grade stuff primarily used in the boat building/repairing industry. It's a two part and then I add a filler to thicken it. My standard filler is white in color when mixed, but you can instead buy very fine saw dust/sanding dust from the wood species you are patching to thicken the epoxy if it's going to be seen. I've got your same repair to do with several large cabinet doors in my garage, a gust of wind blew in and ripped several door hinges out....gahhhh. Not hard to do, just not fun.
One kid is no problem. Two kids and your out numbered. Four kids - What were you thinking!!! Each one is a blessing from the Lord. May they all come to know Jesus at an early age :-)
I didn't think about drilling holes to make it anchor better, I would have just shoved it in, thanks for the tip I'm sure it will come in handy! Speaking of epoxy, I started doing epoxy countertops and I have done a couple floors and a custom desk built and a countertop and they all came out beautiful. Might be something worth exploring to add more content to your channel, I'm sure at least be fun to watch you learn.
Ben, I wish you could have posted this video 4 months ago. I had the same issue but didn’t know how correct so I replaced the whole cabinet 🤬 but now I know what to do if it happens again. Thanks for the tip.👏🏼🙌🏻
(Inadequate) shelf support pins also damage the cabinet sides as they pull out under pressure from heavy, slightly narrow shelves. Wound up getting sleeve inserts and new shelf supports. Redrilled/enlarged holes to accept the sleeves. Then there are the shelves that bow under weight - used aluminum channel to reinforce the long edges. Not a big fan. Of IKEA, that is.
They did a terrible job on our kitchen cabinetry in the early 2000s but the time any problems arose they already ran off with our money obviously couldn't do anything at that point.. Right now I'm repairing one that is pulling away from the wall at the top. The shelves are all bowed from the weight of the contents, I mean what do these cabinet makers think people are putting in there? They should be able to withstand jars and cans of food, dishes....
@@vancouvercarpenter major bonus points though for using real old stuff Like I always do. The problem is I have about 20 rolls of masking/duct/electric tape. Yet just like you, I always use the oldest first, so it doesn't go to waste. The problem is though, I havent used any new, good quality tape since the 90s because I'm always using up the old junk that barely sticks and rips off always. At some point I want to see what new, good tape is like again. Or epoxy/ caulk that just comes right out of the tube.
While I 100% agree on a technical data sheet basis - and regarding best practices - I work in an industrial setting. I have a pack of JB weld that is at least 11 years old (when I started the job), and I still use it for little odds and ends, usually for glass fiber reinforced nylon repairs, if I’m honest. Still works just fine. Sometimes you just want to get it over with already…
Every epoxy I have worked with , even the "5" minute stuff always calls for a 24 hour drying time. 10 year old stuff I would not use even for my own projects.
Fill the hole with wood dust from your sander's dust bag mixed with some wood glue - works like a charm
hey don't forget to thank whichever one of your kids provided us with such an unintentionally great example of ikea cabinet repair... surely very useful to know... :)
So true!
Nice work. For things like this I use Rock Hard Putty which is really easy to work with and strong once it dries. I actually used some the other day to repair my door framing where the strike plate screws in.
Ben..My wife had a good laugh at cats 🐈 breath & sat down to watch the rest of the video w me!! Thank you for the great tip!! Keep up the good work!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Replace all the shelf support plastic pins with metal pins from your big box store. Quick and easy replacement and no more worries about the shelves coming down. I did this and it helps alot.
Personally for ripped hinges like this I just grab some wood dowels.
I drill the hole to the size of the dowel and wood glue it in, trim it flush And screw the hinge back into the new wood.
Haven't had one fail yet.
Me too...
Since this is in your child's room, and is next to the wall, an alternative repair would be to drill the damaged hole all the way through the cabinet side. Then use an appropriately sized machine screw , washer and nut (acorn nut) to remount the hinge. It would look good from my house! I enjoy watching allyour vids and have learned a lot from them.
Actually, a filler strip on the side of the cabinet would hide that. That would be a great last resort. Super strong. Good thinking :)
Used exactly that when I redid our kitchen but keeping old carcasses and doors (vinyl stripped, repainted, and tarted up ofc, along with new worktops + floor).
Got plates hidden behind trims, kickboards fixed into cabs, all sorts. Feel for whoever has to dismantle the thing though because it's now so non-standard it could be a Hollywood actress' smile line.
Although now I'm having to go the epoxy route too because my other half is basically Gozer-The-Destroyer and likes ripping screws out of doors.
Stay puft guys.
I just used a toothpick for a bigger (not huge) hole. Yes, it was a temporary fix, but glad I found this video. Great knowledge and a great educator!
For lining up the hole center.. Use a combination square and line up the centers.. trace an "x" and drill there.. No tape measure and eyeballing needed.
You do really good work, and are truly a craftsman. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
thank you, i filled some broken wooden holes before but never thought to drill extra holes on the side to hold the epoxy, really nice idea.
Good to see you used the universal phillips hammer to make sure the hinge was set into the wood deep enough.
Sure did! :)
I hate it when I see a topic I could've used before. I finally see a hack I need to do soon.
Happy New Year to you and your family VC 🤜🤛
I use 5 min. epoxy/ liquid steel all the time for repairs. That reminds me, I need to pick up a fresh package of epoxy. A lot of people would toss a cabinet because of damage like that so it's good to show how easily repairs can be made. Well done.
Project Farm tested epoxy and the strongest is still the old school gray JB Weld
@@thezfunk I do love me some old school JB. But man- it’s pretty runny, and has a long set time. Unless it’s a repair that needs a bulletproof connection, I typically use 5 minute or Steelstick these days.
Good advice in the redue Reno I got going on some cabinet mounting holes for the hardware were damaged. I couldn’t find a reasonable solution. Not just little people causing damage. Shit stain Tennants are giving me a massive amount of work to remodel the condo I have. Your videos are definitely a useful resource.
CA blues work great; start with an ultra thin CA which will soak into the particle board and help stabilize and strengthen it then dust it with baking powder and hit it with a medium viscosity glue in layers to make a paste/plug. The baking powder works both as a filler and catalyst; the resulting fill sets hard in seconds, can be worked with wood tools, and is a translucent to solid white depending on amount of baking soda.
You can also follow the thin CA with a thick CA glue to mostly fill the hole then spray some catalyst on the part to be inserted and press it in; the glue will grab nearly instantly and will set solid in minutes; just don’t plan on an easy removal.
I like CA glues as specially when combined with catalysts including backing soda, and actually carry an old chalk refill bottle with baking soda just for glue jobs. I also carry epoxy putties which I prefer over liquid epoxies for filling and traditional PVA and polyurethane glues as well.
Tech has changed a lot over the years and glues are one area where you should change with it as they make life easier and can be stronger than traditional fasteners, in some instances.
Great info :)
So baking soda, not powder, right? Two different ingredients
@@drasco61084: Yes, baking soda, baking soda is typically just a single ingredient: sodium bicarbonate. Baking powder is a two, or more ingredient pre-mixed powder which includes both an acid and base so it can cause say muffins to rise. Baking soda and vinegar are the go to volcano instigator for kids, though the same reaction can occur with baking powder and water. I keep a large box of baking soda in the garage as it has a number of good uses as well as keeping some in an old chalk refill squeeze bottle exclusively for use with CA glues; I also have liquid pump and aerosol activators as well.
I had a similar issue, but on the door side of the hinge, which has a recessed pocket. It was a bit of a mess: previous repair had been with plastic wood filler, which wasn't holding. What I did, and this'd work on the cabinet side too, albeit might be overkill, and would be difficult with the cabinet in place:
I drilled out a large diameter pocket, 1" dia if I recall correctly, with a forstner bit, not all the way throught, maybe 1/8" less than full depth. Then I cut a "puck" of (1" dia) hardwood dowel, slightly shorter than the the hole depth, coated the hole and puck with wood glue, and tapped the puck in gently with a hammer, aiming to get the top face flush and level. Wipe any squeezed out glue off the top with a damp cloth, let cure, lightly sand, and you're back to square one, have competent wood to work with.
Put your old tape in the microwave for a few seconds , softens the adhesive and it comes off the roll easy !
Nice tip! :)
Nice dude! I'm gonna try that next time.
@@vancouvercarpenter giggity
Worked as a cleaner in dental surgeries ironically enough, where nurses would often knock doors off hinges like that. I used to pack the resulting holes with the small plastic cotton buds or matchsticks or wooden skewers and found small drywall screws gave good grip in the repair. Whatever I had handy and always carried screwdriver, hammer, screws, matchsticks etc ready for the next disaster!
JB Weld wood stick. White appliance touch up paint on top. Boom done.
fill with wood glue or gorilla glue or crazy glue then shove in the screw and tape on top to hold in place. remove tape in a few hours. no need for drilling.
As the epoxy filling process unfolded, I waited in suspense to hear the magic words: “feather the edges.” It never came. I’m crushed.
Glue is golden for repairs. I bought a new coffee table a few days ago and one of the screws for the legs had no threads (it was a cheap table). Filed in some groves + Epoxy = fixed.
The included hardware on some stuff is complete garbage... I've gotten some of those too with no threads..others where the screw head tore off while driving it into the material with the specified pilot hole size.
The dentist dovetails the fillings? Lol. Great vid, thanks.
LOL…this literally just happened to me.
And you were the first video that came up.
And I also found my ten year old epoxy.
May I suggest using a speed square for transferring measurements of the hole? I also noticed that you struggled using your Philips screwdriver bit on this "blum" European hinge. The screws are in fact very similar to the Philips but are called "Pozidriv". The difference is in the tip of the bit.
Wow - construction and dentistry knowledge, all in one site!
Depending on application I would also consider drilling right through and putting a nut and bolt.
that's right. It's against a wall so who is going to notice?
I redid some cabinets in a crappy apartment with bondo, repainted them before I left. Landlord loved it lol
Had a drawer runner rip out of the side the same way. Would this technique work for the metal bolts that go into the same holes?
Wonder if the sawdust and superglue trick would work
You can tint clear epoxy with a drop or two of Testor's model enamel paint. I do it all the time. Any color you want!
I’ve done the same repair using JB Weld and if I had the pieces Gorilla glue and a clamp. Both repairs held just fine. With the hole being complete filled with the epoxy, you probably didn’t need to you the plastic insert.
Great idea. I did something similar once and used PL Premium, worked just dandy. Cheers.
Ben if you have old tape I have had success in microwaving it for ten seconds or so to get it loose again
For future reference the holes are spaced 32mm apart
Dang dude, I would need a metric tape for that!😂😭
@@vancouvercarpenter they're not as rare as moon rocks. Just head out to Canadian Tire and pick up a Mastercraft one. They are nice to have when you need to measure in metric. I have a couple metric tapes.👍
Good fix. JB weld or epoxy seem to work pretty well in this situation, though I was a little surprised epoxy fasteners don't do as well as new wood when objectively tested. Hopefully your kids learned the lesson and won't swing on a door hinge again. That side will be weaker, forever, but I don't know of any better, easy option.
Cat’s breath epoxy 😂 The mechanical anchoring system - there’s the new magic trick learned for ME today 💫
Thanks so much, this helped me get my cupboard door back on, thanks again
I love these little hacky repairs 😁
In dental they are called " under cuts" used in silver or amalgam fillings. Not widely used, acrylic much better and popular because you don't remove good tooth structure.
Good advice Ben! Easy and better than OEM!
I hope my question isn't dumb but can jb weld be used for this?
No dumb questions. I would say absolutely!
Yes!
"Your kid's tattoo gun." 🤣🤣🤣🤣
My boss has built an all-wood kayak and a small wooden boat and used a fair amount of marine epoxy on each, and now he uses it for all sorts of random repairs like this. The stuff is incredibly strong.
:)
Was gonna say why not just relocate the hardware to the holes just below the damage, but honestly your way worked a treat. Good video man!
Then the cabinet door would be hanging lower.
Good idea for some types of hinges, but on the ikea furniture type it would require an even larger patch on the door where the hinge is pressed into a large bored out circle.
@@acerjuglans383 LOL, no man. You would just be relocating the hinge on the door and cabinet.
use a T-nut from the back and install the hinge plate with a machine screw
It's amazing that in the furniture industry all use mfc. Even high end. I make cabinets and use birch plywood for the carcasses. So much tougher and looks good just oiled. But I guess mfc is ready finished so get why it's used.
i love fixes like this..
You can use the clear 2 part epoxy and color it with resin pigment (hardware store in many colors)
Good to know!
I would have suggested to predrill the hole and only use the screw by cutting off the plastic plug all together. Then the mechanical connection is only between the screw and the epoxy and you don't have to worry about the expansion plug breaking or pulling out the epoxy.
10 year old epoxy and 5 year old tape. It's like you went shopping thru my supplies. 😁
Drilling out the damaged area and adding an epoxied dowel works too. I prefer a a 5 minute epoxy.
I have a small repair, well it started out about fist size.
It’s now at least a foot in all directions 😂
So happy to have an excellent RUclips teacher as well as a college teacher!
At first I was like, "why is spatula god fixing wood?" then I saw you working the filling in and all was well.
HAHAHAH
Great video! I've definitely saved this one cause I know one day I'll have to do it.
Wasn't something I thought of. Thank you 😁
Great 👍 video. Thank you.
Tattoo gun 😂 I can relate lol
I have done this with bondo.
Oh, and in my house, climbing on shelves or swinging on doors (especially the car door) was one of the gravest violations a kid could make. Like take the xbox away for a MONTH grave... I never had much of a problem with it :)
They also make clear epoxy.
I just finished painting and putting down new floor in the upstairs hall bathroom and one issue with the sink was it had pulled away from the wall. Over the years the floor has settled and people putting pressure on the sink made the right side push down and the left side pull away from the wall leaving a gap. Great place for bugs to hide! I removed the door and drilled several holes and counter sunk screws into the frame to screw it tight to the wall. Since it's only screwing into drywall I had to use several screws to get a good grip. Once the door was back on it was still leaning to the right. The door is heavy oak and just weighs down towards the floor. So I took a strip of the flooring which is about an eighth of an inch thick and drilled a hole and put it under the lower hinge so it sticks out further than the top hinge. That made the door level again. There are lots of tricks you can use to fix things around the house. Another example is the metal and glass rack over the toilet wasn't level. Removing the anchors left big holes. How do you drill a new hole that's level when there is already a hole in the wrong place? One way is to fill the holes with mud and drill new ones somewhere else, or just widen the existing hole so that it's level with the other and use cardboard (or wood shims) to fill in the gap. The anchor will expand and push against the cardboard and be just as tight as if it was drywall. I wouldn't climb on it, but I wouldn't climb on it if it was solid drywall either.
5:20 Bob Ross vibes. 😎😌
I use West Systems epoxy, it's Pro-Grade stuff primarily used in the boat building/repairing industry. It's a two part and then I add a filler to thicken it. My standard filler is white in color when mixed, but you can instead buy very fine saw dust/sanding dust from the wood species you are patching to thicken the epoxy if it's going to be seen. I've got your same repair to do with several large cabinet doors in my garage, a gust of wind blew in and ripped several door hinges out....gahhhh. Not hard to do, just not fun.
Its the hinge that squeaks that gets the grease
- Malcolm X
:D
That's like mini deadmen anchoring the hinge
😂 Totally
One kid is no problem. Two kids and your out numbered. Four kids - What were you thinking!!! Each one is a blessing from the Lord. May they all come to know Jesus at an early age :-)
Beating on the hinge with the screw driver handle is the proper way to seat it... did that with my entire kitchen..lol
Or the back of a drill :)
@@vancouvercarpenter Omg yes. My husband kept asking if I needed a hammer... Hahaha
I didn't think about drilling holes to make it anchor better, I would have just shoved it in, thanks for the tip I'm sure it will come in handy! Speaking of epoxy, I started doing epoxy countertops and I have done a couple floors and a custom desk built and a countertop and they all came out beautiful. Might be something worth exploring to add more content to your channel, I'm sure at least be fun to watch you learn.
Great tip!!!!
Can you at least adjust the hinges to fix that gap please? My OCD is triggering .
Did it after the camera was off :)
@@vancouvercarpenter praise you Vancouver plasterer. Please send photo 👍😁
Ben, I wish you could have posted this video 4 months ago. I had the same issue but didn’t know how correct so I replaced the whole cabinet 🤬 but now I know what to do if it happens again. Thanks for the tip.👏🏼🙌🏻
Fear as a parent. It never ends.
excellent
(Inadequate) shelf support pins also damage the cabinet sides as they pull out under pressure from heavy, slightly narrow shelves. Wound up getting sleeve inserts and new shelf supports. Redrilled/enlarged holes to accept the sleeves. Then there are the shelves that bow under weight - used aluminum channel to reinforce the long edges. Not a big fan. Of IKEA, that is.
They did a terrible job on our kitchen cabinetry in the early 2000s but the time any problems arose they already ran off with our money obviously couldn't do anything at that point.. Right now I'm repairing one that is pulling away from the wall at the top. The shelves are all bowed from the weight of the contents, I mean what do these cabinet makers think people are putting in there? They should be able to withstand jars and cans of food, dishes....
Looks good from my house!
Minwax wood filler is great but the fumes are terrible. Makes bondo smell like roses.
Ramen You wanna use ramen. That’s what the cool kids use.
🤣
you could also just pl premium it back in there.
Best description of the drilling would be a dovetail hole.
?
Using Crayola marker for pen - definitely a dad
Its not a true repair unless you use Duct Tape and Chicken Wire somewhere in that method.
I failed :(
@@vancouvercarpenter major bonus points though for using real old stuff Like I always do.
The problem is I have about 20 rolls of masking/duct/electric tape. Yet just like you, I always use the oldest first, so it doesn't go to waste. The problem is though, I havent used any new, good quality tape since the 90s because I'm always using up the old junk that barely sticks and rips off always. At some point I want to see what new, good tape is like again. Or epoxy/ caulk that just comes right out of the tube.
I use the duct tape and chicken wire method, along with a few cuss words. Always works for me. 😁
Don't forget the chewing gum.
@@stevehairston9940 oh yeah, you gotta throw down 14 cwp/m (cusswords per minute) or you're obviously not trying hard enough.
I hit the like button, so I didn't feel the need to leave a comment.
More repair vids please.
I love when your kids break stuff….because they aren’t my kids so I don’t need to fix it :)
Best is to use a metal plate made for this
put that old roll of tape in the microwave for about 10sec and it will rejuvenate it to like new.
You underestimate the destructive power of kids :P.
Epoxy has a short shelf life, usually less than two years.
While I 100% agree on a technical data sheet basis - and regarding best practices - I work in an industrial setting. I have a pack of JB weld that is at least 11 years old (when I started the job), and I still use it for little odds and ends, usually for glass fiber reinforced nylon repairs, if I’m honest. Still works just fine. Sometimes you just want to get it over with already…
That epoxy is stronger than the cabinet is
👍👍👍👍👍
Smells like my cat yawned on me. Lmao
👍🏽
Filed.
Them dang kids!😆
Anyone with kids knows that struggle.
Cat's breath epoxy, lmao.
Every epoxy I have worked with , even the "5" minute stuff always calls for a 24 hour drying time. 10 year old stuff I would not use even for my own projects.
A carpener might call that locking technique: dovetailing.