Great vid, nice music (reminds me of Goodbye Horses, lol) and great intro narration. Only thing not too clear for me is the trick to push down the starnut without using the 5mm screw
For the star nut, the idea is the 5mm Allen bolt when tightened a little holds the socket in place in the centre. If you strike just the Allen key with no socket there, the core of the star nut can be driven out, breaking the assembly. The socket is driving against the threaded core and the star tabs equally. It also lets you set the star squarely as you can see the socket level easier than just the head of a bolt.
Did you see how many spacers I had on it at the start?😂 A new steerer on a fork is normal extremely long and will always need cut down at least a little. Some like to have the stem flush with no spacers, some are happy with a tower above in spacers, each to there own. This is just a guide if you want/need to cut it down.
@@TheBikingVikingDude true, the space(r) tower was already high enough. If I had a pipe cutter I would cut it too. Or I would look for a higher stem and cut even more.
It will cut both alloy and steel, but I'd avoid carbon as the carbon crushes and fractures. With steel, you take smaller cuts/passes so more rotations needed compaired with the softer alloy.
No, the carbon would cracked as the pipe cutter presses the cutting wheel into the tube which would fracture the carbon. A proper blade guide is needed or a very accurate cut by hand.
Yeah it was about 4-5mm under the line so the top cap can tighten down on the stem and stack. If you cut on the line the top cap will not tighten onto the stock and just tightens onto the steerer tube so you end up with play
You could on the none threaded sections, using the cutter in the threaded section would stop it cutting square as the thread would make the cutting wheel deviate. The only reason I've ever cut threaded steerer in the past was part of a project which I repurposed the upper crown and steerer into something else. Not sure why you would look to cut a threaded steerer.
@@TheBikingVikingDude thanks for the response. I had to replace a bent fork for an old mountain bike. It's threaded. But you can't get replacement forks necessarily in the exact size. I may try this out on the old fork and see what happens.
A pipe cutter is easier, but I think it flares the top off a bit. A hack saw is harder to make a straight cut without a jig or clamp, but it won't flare.
@@TheBikingVikingDude unbelievably I had been carrying a bolt on my jacket for a year thinking one day it would come in useful. It fitted the ratchet!! A bit long but it's better than tape.
@@李克诚加拿大 the cutting tool works by turning a dial at the back that pushes the cutting wheel into the wall of the tube, the steel isn't as brittle or thin as a carbon tube so the steel doesn't cracked. If you try this with a carbon steerer you will likely crush the tube when you tighten up the cutting wheel. A carbon steerer is much easier to cut though so a sharp hacksaw would do it, cutting it square using a nice fitting spare spacer
![How To Cut A Bike Steerer Tube and Tap Starnut Down - [Cheap Hacksaw Method]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Pg1BIh0FfH0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for showing me how to use a pipe cutter. Great video!
Great video, thanks for sharing with us.
Nice hack with the socket used to seat the star nut. Will be using it myself shortly.
My refusal to buy stuff leads me to inventing stuff. Then the world benefits 😁
Very informative, very helpful. Thanks for posting.
Exactly what I needed. Great video!
Thank you
Great vid, nice music (reminds me of Goodbye Horses, lol)
and great intro narration.
Only thing not too clear for me is the trick to push down the starnut without using the 5mm screw
For the star nut, the idea is the 5mm Allen bolt when tightened a little holds the socket in place in the centre. If you strike just the Allen key with no socket there, the core of the star nut can be driven out, breaking the assembly. The socket is driving against the threaded core and the star tabs equally. It also lets you set the star squarely as you can see the socket level easier than just the head of a bolt.
@@TheBikingVikingDude thank you very much it all worked flawlessly I managed to learn a new skill thanks!
@@MsYablonsky nice, that warm feeling of success is a good feeling. Well done.
Very well done!! Thanks!
i need to cut my bmx forks down, but im not sure that a pipe cutter will go through chromoly steer tube lol, what do you think?
BUT REMEMBER, MEASURE TWICE CUT ONCE!!!!!!
Just ad a spacer on the top and the top cap will fit. Far more easy, faster and even reversable than cutting the fork.
Did you see how many spacers I had on it at the start?😂 A new steerer on a fork is normal extremely long and will always need cut down at least a little. Some like to have the stem flush with no spacers, some are happy with a tower above in spacers, each to there own. This is just a guide if you want/need to cut it down.
@@TheBikingVikingDude true, the space(r) tower was already high enough. If I had a pipe cutter I would cut it too. Or I would look for a higher stem and cut even more.
Spacers weigh like 3 grams, are you insane?
Was that steer tube AL or steel? Will a pipe cutter like that cut a steel steer tube? Thanks...
It will cut both alloy and steel, but I'd avoid carbon as the carbon crushes and fractures. With steel, you take smaller cuts/passes so more rotations needed compaired with the softer alloy.
@@TheBikingVikingDude Thanks, I just got a new steel frame set, and need to cut it soon.
Will this work on carbon forks?
No, the carbon would cracked as the pipe cutter presses the cutting wheel into the tube which would fracture the carbon. A proper blade guide is needed or a very accurate cut by hand.
2:04 is 4mm ok? Or how long should I cut?
2:35 how long you had cut from the mark?
Yeah it was about 4-5mm under the line so the top cap can tighten down on the stem and stack. If you cut on the line the top cap will not tighten onto the stock and just tightens onto the steerer tube so you end up with play
@@TheBikingVikingDude THX a lot
No worries bud, good luck.
The Biking Viking
A thx a lot
I about to replace my suspension
Can you use the piper cutter on a threaded fork?
You could on the none threaded sections, using the cutter in the threaded section would stop it cutting square as the thread would make the cutting wheel deviate. The only reason I've ever cut threaded steerer in the past was part of a project which I repurposed the upper crown and steerer into something else. Not sure why you would look to cut a threaded steerer.
@@TheBikingVikingDude thanks for the response. I had to replace a bent fork for an old mountain bike. It's threaded. But you can't get replacement forks necessarily in the exact size. I may try this out on the old fork and see what happens.
Thanks for subbing, I will create more videos when I get my triple b so don’t worry about lack of content😂😂😂, your my 40th subscriber
Thats alright, ill see the videos once you get going.
The Biking Viking yeah cool, cheers
I need to cut the steering tube only 1 or 2 milimeters, is the pipe cutter a good idea?
The pipe cutter is a good option if you have one already, a hacksaw works just well if you take your time.
A pipe cutter is easier, but I think it flares the top off a bit. A hack saw is harder to make a straight cut without a jig or clamp, but it won't flare.
Yeah as mentioned in the video it will flair so a hand file is used, the flair isn't extreme so course sand paper could also be used.
Halfords rachet? 30 years old? Tape on the bottom because the screw has fallen out? Snap
Good old Halfords😁
@@TheBikingVikingDude unbelievably I had been carrying a bolt on my jacket for a year thinking one day it would come in useful. It fitted the ratchet!! A bit long but it's better than tape.
👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
I gotta cut my bike see tube
Not for carbon fork
No I wouldn't use a metal pipe cutting tool on carbon steerers. This is just an example for metal.
@@TheBikingVikingDude ok may i know why?
also, can you recommend a not too expensive pipe cutter? thanks a lot
@@李克诚加拿大 the cutting tool works by turning a dial at the back that pushes the cutting wheel into the wall of the tube, the steel isn't as brittle or thin as a carbon tube so the steel doesn't cracked. If you try this with a carbon steerer you will likely crush the tube when you tighten up the cutting wheel. A carbon steerer is much easier to cut though so a sharp hacksaw would do it, cutting it square using a nice fitting spare spacer
Love this vid! thx bike fam
Great video, thank you!
Thanks