I know a few people mentioned the air remaining in tube before opening valve. I have the same brand tool. After vacuuming the system,i remove air hose and connect hose for coolant to gauge and open slightly until coolant gets to gauge. Shut off valve and coolant stays in hose with no air. I then put air hose back on and vacuum system for another minute and then install the coolant hose again and refill system.
I've used this tool numerous times on an '08 F250 Diesel and several other vehicles and it works great. Recently I purchased a 2012 F150, removed and replaced the T-Stat and coolant. I found a leak with the T-Stat seal (my mistake in reassembly). Saved me adding and loosing coolant. Great tool!
thank you for demonstrating how to use my new tool, i thought it was a waste of money at first but with the good tips you pointed out im excited about my purchase
I know this video is crazy old, but I'm so glad I found it. I've had a hell of a time bleeding the cooling system in my GT500. Bought this tool hoping that it helps! Thanks!
I do it a little different. I take a clean five gallon bucket, fill it with roughly 3-4 gallons of antifreeze. I then take the hose and completely dip it in the antifreeze and fill it up. I then keep my fingers on both ends (To keep the antifreeze in the hose), and hook it up and open the valve.. This way it lets even less air into the system.. This system is well worth it..
I've followed you for awhile now but didn't realize you're local. Going to be setting up an appointment for a 2013 ford escape that has been nothing but a nightmare. Looking forward to this appointment
Nice demo of this procedure- quick and gets rid of the air bubbles. Very nice. I’m fighting this right now with our 03 Explorer after changing a few components in the coolant sys. I’m going to try your other (rev engine) technique first, then may have to go this route.
As usual. it's a great explanation and good video. Thank you very much for a very clear explanation. I've watch a similar video but I end up giving the video a negative comment and thumb's down cause it is not clear that It's hard to understand. you are the best! Thank you for this very professional presentation.
i use to have this same model uview, then i switched to the cheaper one by uview , the universal one, its alot easier to use, you dont have to switch hoses or mouth adapters.
I just tried using this exact same tool on a 2017 F150 with the 5.0 and it wouldn't suck down into a vacuum at all. I could not find any place that was possibly leaking. Gauge stayed at 0 and the hoses did not begin to collapse at all. I'm not sure what the problem was. I was pretty disappointed after spending that type of money on this kit. I was using a 60 gallon compressor with about 140 psi. The main part of the tool fit tightly into the neck of the fill tank. I ended up doing it the old fashion way by using a Lisle no spill funnel and adapter on the bottle and doing several heat up and cool down cycles to get the level right and the air out of the system.
You were doing it wrong. There is a vent in the degas bottle right were the cap seals. In order to seal it on that style bottle you do not use any of the adapters in the kit.
@@FordTechMakuloco Thanks for the information. The rubber part that expands on the tool looked too small to completely fill the cap hole so I didn't even try it without an adapter. I will know for next time.
Cool tool. Don't you run the risk of too much vacuum since it isn't regulated? If it is causing the hoses to collapse, couldn't it also suck in a freeze plug or something like that? Also should that radiator hose have a spring/coil inside to prevent it from collapsing like that?
No this tool is made just for modern day cooling systems, if the system cannot handle it and fails with this tool all the better you just found the weak spot in the system. It always tops out around 27" of vacuum so never too much the rubber hose may give way but a metal freeze plug should not. I have only seen the metal springs on maybe a handful of fords, I mainly see those springs on cheap aftermarket hoses and allot of Chryslers.
That makes sense about the Hz’s of vacuum created by the tool not being too high. Whats your definition of ‘modern day cooling system’, though? Cooling system design hasn’t changed a whole lot in the past 20 years or so as far as I can tell. My wife’s ’98 Mustang (3.8L) and my buddies ’03 Escort ZX2 has a coil in the lower radiator hose from the factory. My ’03 Dodge Durango (4.7L) has one from the factory too, but in the upper hose because the thermostat is on the lower hose. Its my understanding that the coil is there to prevent the hose from collapsing, cutting off coolant flow, due to the suction created when the thermostat opens up on the opposite side of the radiator. Brand new hoses are stiff enough to withstand it, but they weaken over time due to hot/cold cycling and can be prone to collapse (regardless of hose quality). At least thats what I’ve been told… and it kind of makes sense to me.
Pet Rock's Garage I would say anything mid 90's on since they started using higher pressures and the systems can take more. Yes the spring is there to prevent collapsing and is used on lower quality hoses and factory hoses that have an extended length. Nowadays we never see them.
What it's measuring is atmospheric pressure. Once the inside of the engine is near vacuum, the gauge will never exceed atmospheric pressure which is 29.92 inches of mercury (or 14.7 psi or 1 bar).
i buy the Uview lift after i have big problems with air pockets in a chevy impala 2007 . 3.5 engine i did with the funnel the first-time i try 3 time in the same problems happens over heating and no heat in the cabin. after i did with thisone problem solved piece of cake. easy to use and avoid you a lot of headaches.
So many questions (and I know this is an old video but the heck). This appears to have been done on a drained system correct? Because it was mentioned one could also do this after working on a system and apparently already having refilled it to check for things left undone. I assume this is done on a cold engine? If so, that means the thermostat is closed so wouldn't the heater and engine block not even be affected by the vaccum? I guess I don't fully understand the intricasies of using this tool. I just flushed and filled my 2010 Ford Fusion 2.5L cooling system and now having low temp condition. I have heat but the temp around town in in the 160s and highway it might get to 175-180 tops. I've burped the crap out of the system and it is a closed loop system with an expansion tank and is supposed to be somewhat self-burping but I've been doing what I know to burp it (cold engine, cap off, warm engine cap off, even hot engine cap off). Oh, and I have no pressure in the expansion tank after driving - take cap off and nothing - it's at atmospheric pressure.
Been using this way for years,never fails.better to use a bucket and zip tie the hose to an extension or put some big nuts and bolts on it to weigh it down so it stays at the bottom of the bucket and doesn't curl up and suck in air.
What happens to the air in the refill tube when you first open the valve? Seems like by starting with the tube empty you're injecting a small air pocket into the system before the coolant starts flowing.
Thor2015 is right what happens with the air that was in the refill tube. You can not prime that refill tube because it has an open end where it goes in the coolant bottle.
In VOLVO we use a tool with two valves, one for the filler and one for the vacuum. steps are: 1- vacuum untill you reach the green area. 2- whit the vacuum valve still open, open the coolant valve 2 seconds. this allows you to fill the pipe. 3-vacuum again, close the vacuum valve, wait 2 minutes to be sure and then open the coolant valve it's amazing (you must to use an overflow bottle at the vacuum side.
Really not enough air from that short hose to effect the system. You will have some air in the system anyways it will bleed out once you drive the car up to normal temp.
Great video, Brian does this tool work with a 2010 fusion hybrid? do I vaccum EV and gas motor coolant fill tank? I replaced water pump now car is overheating,
Awesome tool and you do awesome work but one thing I can't figure out there's air in the hose to begin with so it looks like it sucks that in unless you fill the hose with coolant prior to opening the vacuum valve?
I think it looks like a significant amount of air volume that gets pulled back into the system. I am having fits with a 2017 Ford Edge and this looks like the perfect tool.
I have a 2001 Mustang 4.6 and am having a lot of problems getting all the air out so I'm going to be buying one of these. Do you have to have all the coolant drained out of it or can or can it be partially full?? I'm assuming the the vacuum will suck what you have in it out and the then the vacuum will draw the new in?
Based on what I remember from my Fluid Mechanics class in engineering school, I don't think it needs to be emptied. Using this tool on a non-empty system as long as it won't suck an liquid should suffice. The air pocket has nowhere to hide.
What should indo about the initial air when starting the fill? How would ingo about geting that air out... Hmm thinking of some how filling the tube through the line first to further minimize air in system
is it possible to change the fluid entirely this way without draining it? My mechanic telling me that there is a change of damaging the drain valve if I try to unscrew it from the radiator. I'd like to know if there is a way to do it without touching it at all?
we just put a engine in a 2010 f150 and has been running. when it gets warm the cooling hoses seem to be really stiff? is this normal?? Thanks Great Videos
Got a bad problem with my ford escape. Runs good for days and all of a sudden it loses power nd and the front end starts shaking like crazy. Do you have any idea what it might be.
Wow so if I'm understanding this correctly you do a normal drain of your coolant system, it's empty with whatever residual fluid that's trapped, you hook up this device and pull a vacuum and that vacuum alone is sufficient to draw in the new coolant to replace the old stuff that's already been drained and emptied out.
This tool keeps wanting to suck up coolant rather than air, does the 3.7L cyclone need additional draining beyond radiator petcock to vacuum refill properly?
Ok, so I have a question.When I drain my Cummins 5.9 coolant, there is a few gallons left in the block, if I use this tool, where is the remaining coolant going to go?
I've always wanted to get one of these..my question is do you still need to run the vehicle until the thermostat opens to get the rest of the coolant in?
So if the vacuum pressure drops then you know there is a leak in the system ? Can it be used on the radiator or just on the overflow bottle ? I have a 2003 Caravan and trying to detect a leak but cannot see any traces of coolant anywhere as of yet after I refilled everything.
my 20gal home compressor couldn't keep up to pull a vacuum on my van. I was contemplating a degasser chamber and an actual vacuum pump. My kit also did not come with the compression tight fit adapters, just a cone that I have to hold tight in the neck of the radiator. That cone also draws the vacuum from near the top of the core and therefore sucks coolant back out on the next attempt to pull a vacuum.
Hi there, I'm thinking about getting a coolant system flush and fill done on my 2010 F150 with almost 100,000 km/ 62,000miles on it at my local ford dealer. Would most ford dealers have and use a tool like this to perform the flush and fill?
Have you ever had any issues using this system. For example, vaccum sucking through water pump shaft affecting the seal, or imploding heater core, or weak corrosion spots beginning to leak? Very interested to know any possible down sides to look out for. I know it doesn't seem likely because the max possible vacuum would be roughly the same as 14.7psi of reverse pressure, and many Fords systems are now rated to 19-20psi. But still interested to be forwarned about possible issues, especially on the 2.3L 2.5L Duratecs. Thanks and great vid as always.
@@FordTechMakuloco thanks for the reply. I’m abt to do a 2.3 Duratec with 140k on weekend with a new vac system, and that makes me feel more confident😉
How minimum of existing coolant (that I will reuse) can I leave it in there? Say 50%, would the sucking get all the air out, or any existing coolant (that I want in) out?
I got a hole in my supercharger heat exchanger had to drain all the coolant out of it and get it welded back up unfortunately I didn't realize these little handy-dandy tools existed and fill the cooling back up the old fashion way. I've been told by the supercharger manufacturer I need to do a vacuum bleed. Can I get this tool and do that with coolant already in the system ???
yeah bout that U view Works excellent I use it all the time at work I'm also Ford Technician I enjoyed watching your Channel I also like watching South Main Auto with Eric O keep up the good work Buddy
We just attempted to drain the coolant on a 2010 Buick Lucerne (V6). I couldn't find a radiator drain anywhere finally concluded that a vacuum tool must be needed on this car.
I have a similar tool but cant get get it to hold a vacuum. I know there is a leak somewhere but it's not leaking visibly to my eyes such as no puddles anywhere. The question is this; Could a leaking head gasket cause my 4.2 to lose the vacuum during this process? I'm thinking that's my problem.
I have a 2014 fiesta with the 1.0L ecoboost AND a leaking water pump at ~ 83k miles. Is this applicable to the 1.0 ecoboost. I only ask because the factory service manual has a pretty detailed procedure for bleeding the cooling system and a few folks with the same engine and issue have ended up with cracked heads because the cooling system was not bleed properly after a water pump change. BTW your videos are VERY helpful for us Ford owners. THANK YOU!
Have different system, was told system need to be completely drained to use. We cannot simply use to top off or remove air pockets, is this true, must we have it completely drained?
When you bleed via vacuum does the refill go passed the thermostat? I ask because when you bleed coolant the old school way, you have to wait for the thermostat to open in order to add more coolant
I know a few people mentioned the air remaining in tube before opening valve. I have the same brand tool. After vacuuming the system,i remove air hose and connect hose for coolant to gauge and open slightly until coolant gets to gauge. Shut off valve and coolant stays in hose with no air. I then put air hose back on and vacuum system for another minute and then install the coolant hose again and refill system.
The air, if the tool is left uninterrupted, ends up at the top of the d-gas tank. A non-issue.
I've used this tool numerous times on an '08 F250 Diesel and several other vehicles and it works great. Recently I purchased a 2012 F150, removed and replaced the T-Stat and coolant. I found a leak with the T-Stat seal (my mistake in reassembly). Saved me adding and loosing coolant. Great tool!
thank you for demonstrating how to use my new tool, i thought it was a waste of money at first but with the good tips you pointed out im excited about my purchase
I bought an airlift about 6 months ago and its one of those tools thats so good I honestly don't know how i made it 12 years without one.
Thanks Brian. I bought this system because of your recommendation. Just used it to fill a 2006 Escape Hybrid... took less than 2 minutes.
Thanks for recommending this. I bought one for my 2005 Ford Five Hundred. Worked perfect. I need to buy you a beer!! Thank you!!!
I love my airlift, it is such an ingenious solution and doubles as a pressure tester to confirm repairs.. one of the best tools ever made
I know this video is crazy old, but I'm so glad I found it. I've had a hell of a time bleeding the cooling system in my GT500. Bought this tool hoping that it helps! Thanks!
Great video 👍
You wouldn't believe how many people don't know about this.
Used this method for second time today. Works like a charm. Thank you!!
I do it a little different. I take a clean five gallon bucket, fill it with roughly 3-4 gallons of antifreeze. I then take the hose and completely dip it in the antifreeze and fill it up. I then keep my fingers on both ends (To keep the antifreeze in the hose), and hook it up and open the valve.. This way it lets even less air into the system.. This system is well worth it..
THANK YOU ! The tool and the procedure are spot on ! You are the best !
I've followed you for awhile now but didn't realize you're local. Going to be setting up an appointment for a 2013 ford escape that has been nothing but a nightmare. Looking forward to this appointment
Nice demo of this procedure- quick and gets rid of the air bubbles. Very nice. I’m fighting this right now with our 03 Explorer after changing a few components in the coolant sys. I’m going to try your other (rev engine) technique first, then may have to go this route.
The other thing works after no more than a few tries
I will have to say I love you. Thanks for saving me almost $1K
Great teacher. You explain things very well.
Just ordered this item, Thanks for the heads up!
I just bought one . Gotta replace coolant overflow on 06 5.7 Hemi .. thanks for the video
As usual. it's a great explanation and good video. Thank you very much for a very clear explanation. I've watch a similar video but I end up giving the video a negative comment and thumb's down cause it is not clear that It's hard to understand. you are the best! Thank you for this very professional presentation.
For the home wrench.. Someone who goes a couple years between doing a flush.. The Robinair 75260 vacuum fill might be the way to go..
I want one of these. I do lots of vans with front and rear heater cores. This should be perfect for that zero air pocket fill the first time!
Claude Rains Sure would
i use to have this same model uview, then i switched to the cheaper one by uview , the universal one, its alot easier to use, you dont have to switch hoses or mouth adapters.
What the science?! How cool!
I need to get one of these.
I just tried using this exact same tool on a 2017 F150 with the 5.0 and it wouldn't suck down into a vacuum at all. I could not find any place that was possibly leaking. Gauge stayed at 0 and the hoses did not begin to collapse at all. I'm not sure what the problem was. I was pretty disappointed after spending that type of money on this kit. I was using a 60 gallon compressor with about 140 psi. The main part of the tool fit tightly into the neck of the fill tank.
I ended up doing it the old fashion way by using a Lisle no spill funnel and adapter on the bottle and doing several heat up and cool down cycles to get the level right and the air out of the system.
You were doing it wrong. There is a vent in the degas bottle right were the cap seals. In order to seal it on that style bottle you do not use any of the adapters in the kit.
@@FordTechMakuloco Thanks for the information. The rubber part that expands on the tool looked too small to completely fill the cap hole so I didn't even try it without an adapter. I will know for next time.
Hey Brian . . . what will happen with the thermostat during this vacuum test or won't it matter .
Cool tool. Don't you run the risk of too much vacuum since it isn't regulated? If it is causing the hoses to collapse, couldn't it also suck in a freeze plug or something like that? Also should that radiator hose have a spring/coil inside to prevent it from collapsing like that?
No this tool is made just for modern day cooling systems, if the system cannot handle it and fails with this tool all the better you just found the weak spot in the system. It always tops out around 27" of vacuum so never too much the rubber hose may give way but a metal freeze plug should not. I have only seen the metal springs on maybe a handful of fords, I mainly see those springs on cheap aftermarket hoses and allot of Chryslers.
That makes sense about the Hz’s of vacuum created by the tool not being too high. Whats your definition of ‘modern day cooling system’, though? Cooling system design hasn’t changed a whole lot in the past 20 years or so as far as I can tell.
My wife’s ’98 Mustang (3.8L) and my buddies ’03 Escort ZX2 has a coil in the lower radiator hose from the factory. My ’03 Dodge Durango (4.7L) has one from the factory too, but in the upper hose because the thermostat is on the lower hose. Its my understanding that the coil is there to prevent the hose from collapsing, cutting off coolant flow, due to the suction created when the thermostat opens up on the opposite side of the radiator. Brand new hoses are stiff enough to withstand it, but they weaken over time due to hot/cold cycling and can be prone to collapse (regardless of hose quality). At least thats what I’ve been told… and it kind of makes sense to me.
Pet Rock's Garage I would say anything mid 90's on since they started using higher pressures and the systems can take more. Yes the spring is there to prevent collapsing and is used on lower quality hoses and factory hoses that have an extended length. Nowadays we never see them.
What it's measuring is atmospheric pressure. Once the inside of the engine is near vacuum, the gauge will never exceed atmospheric pressure which is 29.92 inches of mercury (or 14.7 psi or 1 bar).
i buy the Uview lift after i have big problems with air pockets in a chevy impala 2007 . 3.5 engine i did with the funnel the first-time i try 3 time in the same problems happens over heating and no heat in the cabin. after i did with thisone problem solved piece of cake. easy to use and avoid you a lot of headaches.
Nice tool, I'm working on a 1990 ZR-1 and that LT5 is notorious for getting air trapped in the block, this would eliminate any doubt, thanks. 👍👍🏁
Great video thanks. How does it work to pull vacuum past a cold (closed) thermostat?
So many questions (and I know this is an old video but the heck). This appears to have been done on a drained system correct? Because it was mentioned one could also do this after working on a system and apparently already having refilled it to check for things left undone. I assume this is done on a cold engine? If so, that means the thermostat is closed so wouldn't the heater and engine block not even be affected by the vaccum? I guess I don't fully understand the intricasies of using this tool. I just flushed and filled my 2010 Ford Fusion 2.5L cooling system and now having low temp condition. I have heat but the temp around town in in the 160s and highway it might get to 175-180 tops. I've burped the crap out of the system and it is a closed loop system with an expansion tank and is supposed to be somewhat self-burping but I've been doing what I know to burp it (cold engine, cap off, warm engine cap off, even hot engine cap off). Oh, and I have no pressure in the expansion tank after driving - take cap off and nothing - it's at atmospheric pressure.
one of my fav tools in my box
That’s Bada$$!!! Gotta get it!!!
I've had one for a few years and it works great.
Been using this way for years,never fails.better to use a bucket and zip tie the hose to an extension or put some big nuts and bolts on it to weigh it down so it stays at the bottom of the bucket and doesn't curl up and suck in air.
lol thats what i did to mine too, i used stick on wheel weights and wrapped them in electrical tape
Well the question is, how much psi are you pushing through the devise? Or does it matter?
What happens to the air in the refill tube when you first open the valve? Seems like by starting with the tube empty you're injecting a small air pocket into the system before the coolant starts flowing.
He did, refill tube needs to be primed first.
Thor2015 is right what happens with the air that was in the refill tube. You can not prime that refill tube because it has an open end where it goes in the coolant bottle.
Stick the end of the tube into the coolant and then pour (prime) fluid into the top end of the hose, and then re-attach air fitting back onto tube.
In VOLVO we use a tool with two valves, one for the filler and one for the vacuum. steps are:
1- vacuum untill you reach the green area.
2- whit the vacuum valve still open, open the coolant valve 2 seconds. this allows you to fill the pipe.
3-vacuum again, close the vacuum valve, wait 2 minutes to be sure and then open the coolant valve it's amazing (you must to use an overflow bottle at the vacuum side.
Really not enough air from that short hose to effect the system. You will have some air in the system anyways it will bleed out once you drive the car up to normal temp.
Great video, Brian does this tool work with a 2010 fusion hybrid? do I vaccum EV and gas motor coolant fill tank? I replaced water pump now car is overheating,
Fantastic video! Do you have to top off after the car warms up and the thermostat opens?
Thank you I get what your saying about the taurus now I'll try that, Nice Vid ++++
thank you Brian, great information
Axel Bart *
Awesome tool and you do awesome work but one thing I can't figure out there's air in the hose to begin with so it looks like it sucks that in unless you fill the hose with coolant prior to opening the vacuum valve?
I think it looks like a significant amount of air volume that gets pulled back into the system. I am having fits with a 2017 Ford Edge and this looks like the perfect tool.
I have a 2001 Mustang 4.6 and am having a lot of problems getting all the air out so I'm going to be buying one of these. Do you have to have all the coolant drained out of it or can or can it be partially full?? I'm assuming the the vacuum will suck what you have in it out and the then the vacuum will draw the new in?
Robert Delling Best to completely drain, vac system for 5min then fill.
Based on what I remember from my Fluid Mechanics class in engineering school, I don't think it needs to be emptied. Using this tool on a non-empty system as long as it won't suck an liquid should suffice. The air pocket has nowhere to hide.
Thanks a lot. Looks like cool to buy this kit.
Works great! shuda got one yrs ago.
What should indo about the initial air when starting the fill? How would ingo about geting that air out... Hmm thinking of some how filling the tube through the line first to further minimize air in system
does the portable small compressor with 150psi will work instead of that workshop air compressor?
Yes it will you may just need to pump up the tank a few times to max pressure. My Dewalt Pancake compressor handles it no problem-amzn.to/2trMCLH
Yes...awesome way...I will refill my f150 coyote cooling system this week.. 😀👍
Thats a neat tool.
Shop hose? I'm wondering, for garage use, if this can work with small air compressor?
is it possible to change the fluid entirely this way without draining it? My mechanic telling me that there is a change of damaging the drain valve if I try to unscrew it from the radiator. I'd like to know if there is a way to do it without touching it at all?
After hooking up vacuum, I did not see it take out any old coolant. Did I miss something here? Thank you.
How would you use these systems on a Smart Fortwo 453? The expansion tank and radiator are on the front, and the engine is in the back.
Very interesting video; I've never seen this before!
Awesome tool!
Thank you
we just put a engine in a 2010 f150 and has been running. when it gets warm the cooling hoses seem to be really stiff? is this normal?? Thanks Great Videos
Good job, thanks, just what I needed. I think I'll make a video too when I do this on my car ;)
Can the coolant could pass thru the Thermostat while the engine is cold when using this tool?
Got a bad problem with my ford escape. Runs good for days and all of a sudden it loses power nd and the front end starts shaking like crazy. Do you have any idea what it might be.
When this is pulling the air out will it pull out any trapped water in the system out as well?
Wow so if I'm understanding this correctly you do a normal drain of your coolant system, it's empty with whatever residual fluid that's trapped, you hook up this device and pull a vacuum and that vacuum alone is sufficient to draw in the new coolant to replace the old stuff that's already been drained and emptied out.
yup, its a very cool tool to have.
well done that was excellent i liked that ,
were did you buy the tool from? do you know roughly how much it cost?
Johan Wiebe Amazon I will put a link in the description, only about $125, I thought it was around $220 I guess not.
Snap-on works too.... And getting it replaced on warranty is easier than flipping a dime.
That is cool ! Thanks, must get one !
This tool keeps wanting to suck up coolant rather than air, does the 3.7L cyclone need additional draining beyond radiator petcock to vacuum refill properly?
Does this awesome tool work on older Nissans witheVG33E engines??
Can I use a portable tyre air compressor with this tool or does it have to be a powerful air compressor.
Ok, so I have a question.When I drain my Cummins 5.9 coolant, there is a few gallons left in the block, if I use this tool, where is the remaining coolant going to go?
It stays in the block some may get sucked out with this tool but not all.
Does this vacuum all the way to the heater core?
I might have missed it but from the air hose to the pressure gauge hooked on the coolant reservoir Where is the other end of the hose connected to?
Could you use the same vacuum set up to to pull a vacuum and remove the air and then refill the power steering and/or brake fluid systems as well?
That is F ing awsum!! I am getting one!!
If you have anymore cool tools like that please show them
Shouldn't purge the air out of the coolant fill hose? Other wise you are adding some air back into the system.
I've always wanted to get one of these..my question is do you still need to run the vehicle until the thermostat opens to get the rest of the coolant in?
So if the vacuum pressure drops then you know there is a leak in the system ?
Can it be used on the radiator or just on the overflow bottle ?
I have a 2003 Caravan and trying to detect a leak but cannot see any traces of coolant anywhere as of yet after I refilled everything.
my 20gal home compressor couldn't keep up to pull a vacuum on my van. I was contemplating a degasser chamber and an actual vacuum pump. My kit also did not come with the compression tight fit adapters, just a cone that I have to hold tight in the neck of the radiator. That cone also draws the vacuum from near the top of the core and therefore sucks coolant back out on the next attempt to pull a vacuum.
Hi there, I'm thinking about getting a coolant system flush and fill done on my 2010 F150 with almost 100,000 km/ 62,000miles on it at my local ford dealer. Would most ford dealers have and use a tool like this to perform the flush and fill?
No this is just for filling only. There is a different machine for the flush.
Confused,where the vacuum is from?can't see how or where you connect the inlet and outlet hose ?
Did you just keep replacing the bottles of coolant you were pulling from until you reached 0 hg and the system was full?
About 5HG then release vacuum and fill the reservoir manually from there.
@@FordTechMakuloco cool, thanks!
Have you ever had any issues using this system. For example, vaccum sucking through water pump shaft affecting the seal, or imploding heater core, or weak corrosion spots beginning to leak? Very interested to know any possible down sides to look out for. I know it doesn't seem likely because the max possible vacuum would be roughly the same as 14.7psi of reverse pressure, and many Fords systems are now rated to 19-20psi. But still interested to be forwarned about possible issues, especially on the 2.3L 2.5L Duratecs. Thanks and great vid as always.
Um no never.
@@FordTechMakuloco thanks for the reply. I’m abt to do a 2.3 Duratec with 140k on weekend with a new vac system, and that makes me feel more confident😉
How will this go for installing the Evans waterless coolant prep fluid and then the waterless coolant?
Can I drain the radiator only and still use this? Also what size compressor do I need to achieve a proper vacuum?
You need about 90 psi for the tool to work correctly.
How minimum of existing coolant (that I will reuse) can I leave it in there? Say 50%, would the sucking get all the air out, or any existing coolant (that I want in) out?
I got a hole in my supercharger heat exchanger had to drain all the coolant out of it and get it welded back up unfortunately I didn't realize these little handy-dandy tools existed and fill the cooling back up the old fashion way. I've been told by the supercharger manufacturer I need to do a vacuum bleed. Can I get this tool and do that with coolant already in the system ???
Yes, you can use it with coolant already in the system
How empty does the system have to be? can you just drain the radiator? or do you need to remove thermostat etc and get a complete drain?
yeah bout that U view Works excellent I use it all the time at work I'm also Ford Technician I enjoyed watching your Channel I also like watching South Main Auto with Eric O keep up the good work Buddy
We just attempted to drain the coolant on a 2010 Buick Lucerne (V6). I couldn't find a radiator drain anywhere finally concluded that a vacuum tool must be needed on this car.
Just drain it from the lower radiator hose. It's much faster than using the petcock too.
Where did you get that tool I would like to buy one
amzn.com/B0002SRH5G
Thank you
Snapon
I have a similar tool but cant get get it to hold a vacuum. I know there is a leak somewhere but it's not leaking visibly to my eyes such as no puddles anywhere. The question is this; Could a leaking head gasket cause my 4.2 to lose the vacuum during this process? I'm thinking that's my problem.
What air pressure are you running on the “shop air” ??
175
Does the vacuum also pull out any remaining coolant in the engine block? Do you need to remove the thermostat to facilitate that?
Some coolant gets removed yes but no need to remove the thermostat as the vacuum has access to both sides of the thermostat already.
@@FordTechMakuloco I was waiting for someone to answer this question and it makes perfect sense now. Thank you.
Awesome informative video as usual! Thanks. What air pressure do you recommend?
+whirledpeaz1 100-130 psi
I have a 2014 fiesta with the 1.0L ecoboost AND a leaking water pump at ~ 83k miles. Is this applicable to the 1.0 ecoboost. I only ask because the factory service manual has a pretty detailed procedure for bleeding the cooling system and a few folks with the same engine and issue have ended up with cracked heads because the cooling system was not bleed properly after a water pump change. BTW your videos are VERY helpful for us Ford owners. THANK YOU!
Can I drain my coolant with this tool and re fill it??
mr jared linked this vid to my class. hopefully someone from his future class will find this
About the air and the hose how do you purge that
Have different system, was told system need to be completely drained to use. We cannot simply use to top off or remove air pockets, is this true, must we have it completely drained?
Will this also work on the smaller secondary cooling system on the Ford 6.7L as the coolant neck is much smaller?
that is a must on some fords
When filling from a radiator neck, how would you know that it's full? Would it stop sucking?
Yes
When you bleed via vacuum does the refill go passed the thermostat? I ask because when you bleed coolant the old school way, you have to wait for the thermostat to open in order to add more coolant
Yes it refills everything automatically even cold.
@@FordTechMakuloco Thanks buddy!