Convert From Nutted To Recessed Mounted Brakes On Older Bike Frame
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- Опубликовано: 20 июн 2020
- I show how to drill a bike frame to accommodate modern recessed mounted caliper brakes. I was doing a light retromod on an vintage Cannondale road bike, and wanted to update the brakes from the old nutted single pivot brakes to newer style recessed mounted dual pivot brakes.
I have had people ask if the dual pivot brakes are better than the single pivot brakes. Yes they are. They have more mechanical advantage and will deliver stronger, controlled braking. They are also aesthetically more modern looking as well, so that is a bonus.
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I think I've learned everything I know about working on bikes from watching your videos. Your channel is absolutely priceless.
I dont even need to do this but enjoyed watching you do some magic.
Oh wow. Perfect. I bought a pair of dual pivot brakes online and when they arrived I realised I had the wrong type of fork to mount them. I was thinking about ..maybe.. drilling them out ..somehow? and saw a future of screeching metal and bleeding fingers. Now that I’ve seen someone actually do it, I feel a whole lot better! Thanks RJ, you just saved me a world of pain!
You can use a step drill used for sheet materials ,held in a tap holder, for the rear brake bridge
RJ I'm addicted to watching your video I love too see old bikes and remember the agony of having to fix them.
Rj always dropping them gems 💎
Your videos are amazing, this is exactly the issue I have come across this evening in my current bike rebuild. Thank you!
Just did this, thanks so much for these videos. I didn't have a right angle drill so I mounted the rear brake in front of the seat stay.
Great simple video with clear instructions. Thanks for putting in the time and effort to share these videos. End result looks good.
I did this last week but used a tapered reamer on the rear bridge from the back side. Alas, brakes didn't have enough reach for the times I had. Darn, but I learned a lot. So today, i mounted another rear brake on a different bike and alas! The reach was perfect but not enough clearance for the tire! But time in the garage is never wasted. Thanks for the videos.
That is why I checked before I drilled. Measure twice, cut once.
Def getting a drill now, game changer on vintage road bike conversions for me🚲👍🏽
RJ saves the day again. Thanks for all the great videos. You've saved me a lot of $$ in avoided mistakes.
Perfect instructions! This will a big help putting dual pivots on my 48 year old Raleigh I've converted to electric.
Just love this channel RJ - every time i have a mini tinkering project and run into something unexpected - boom, you have a video for it. Fantastic.
Nice job! I had that problem mon a couple of bikes and I didn’t think of that concave washer idea. Thanks for the video.
Thank you RJ for another great video. I won't be doing this project but enjoy your videos and technique.
Thanks RJ this is EXACTLY what I need to do for my new tourer!
I successfully did this today after watching your video. Thanks!!!
Very informative as always!
Just did for my restored old bike. Works great! Trick on the tight clearance at brake bridge : use 7.5mm, and drill at an angle from both sides of the bike , be carefull not to hit the seattube with the drill chuck
Excellent, as always!
This just solved my problem. Bought new model brake and I didn't know it is installed differently from my current one. Will do this tomorrow. Thanks!
Nice.
Simple & neat!
I did this once with my '86 Peugeot frame. Was pretty scary to drill in the fork, but worked really well.
I really enjoy your videos 👍🏻
Great video as usual my friend !
Just the video I need. Thanks!
Very nice! Love to watch your vids. Thanks so much for taking the time to show us all these repairs and mods. Just got a new really nice Milwaukee drill (with impact driver) on a terrific Father's day special deal, so now I may have some bike projects to use it on!🙂🙂👍
Cool! Tools! *grunt grunt*
Great job. I was wondering how to do the rear brake fitting. Thanks RJ👍
did the same thing to my 1984 schwinn world sport when i mounted a shimano 6500 ultegra group to it, and then again when i moved that same group to my 86 trek 400. only I just went though the seatstay bridge all the way on both of them because I didnt have a right angle drill, worked fine, the brakes are rock solid. wish this video was up when I did that though. nice to see you putting up some stuff RJ missed your vids
Nice one RJ👍
Can’t tell you how much I enjoy your videos. Thank you.
With all that I have been able to learn from your videos and being an apprentice at my local bike shop, I have been able to start my own repair shop. Working out of my garage for now. But I have hopes of moving to a Commercial space that I already own. It is located about 2 blocks from our Rail Trail entrance.
Just want to get more experience behind me first. This is my second summer wrenching and 4th summer riding. Thank you again for all you do.
Cool!
we enjoyed your presentation you are very clever . we also like the tools you use . we enjoy drinking soda too especially root beer . thanks for sharing .
great video, thank you
Be great job when the bike is done ! And great video you !!
Your channel is awesome
Nice upgrade!
Looking good!
nice work, great bike btw
Dude you rock!
Great video well explained
Thanks! Doing the same to an old Cannondale.
Nice work dude
Looks good awesome m8
very good thank you very much and keep going
Best Wishes and support from germany
good job 😎
Did you have a better braking with the new brake calipers than the original ones ?
I love watching these videos, I learn a lot. By the way, the tyre on the front wheel was popping of a bit at the valve.
I haven't done anything with the wheels yet. I haven't done a lot of things on the bike yet.
My solution to this issue was to buy an inexpensive nutted dual pivot front brake off ebay; there's plenty of unbranded examples available and they work fine.
that tektro brake comes also in a nutted version.
Saludos..desde Colombia 🚲👍
For the rear brake it's much easier to use a front brake with the longer thread, and just put a normal nut on to fix it. That way you do not need to drill the brake bridge.
Correct, I have been doing this for years. And you can fit a rear brake to the front, after drilling the fork, by using a longer recessed nut.
I have that in a previous video. I prefer this method.
This is a good tidbit. Just make sure you're using a stepped but for metal.
Following your recommendation I swapped out the rear brake with with a front brake and used the existing nut to fix it .. works fine ! Thanks for the tip Bro :)
Thanks John. Good tip. With your method and RJ's video I now have 2 options for upgrading the brakes on a nice old steel frame I just picked up. Happy riding to you both.
The new Brakes looks great.
Now i think about a upgrade of my commuter bike.
I put the black version of the Tektro Brakes on my Bike 🤘😎👍
I prefer the look of the old brakes on that frame.
function > fashion
@@DaveReedDR Those Modolos are exceptional performers with new pads and a proper rebuild. Half of the bad rap they got BITD was because of their horrible factory brake pads.
@@cudak888 finding correct brake pads is horrible if you dont have a clue what your rim is made of. Its easy for solid steel rims, but some old rims have anodized coating on them, like polished aluminium or even chrome, and its almost impossible to find the correct brake pads for these.
You're my Master😍😍😍🙏🙏🙏🙏
Most cool
Great, mr rj outstanding, videos, & well explained, thanks, say hello joe & bros, suscribe, continue.
u guys help me, thank you
I wish I had spotted that video yesterday as I did exactly the same and struggled a bit here and there 😄
That video helped.
my old bike has canter lever breaks on rear and would love to install dual pivot race brakes but only have a flat plate (no tube across the rear fork) to mount to is there something i can try to do without the welder
don't want to put v - brakes on unless it can't be voided
Sir what do i do if the driller is big and cant fit into frame can i drill the 2 holes in the back of the bike
Gotta get some long pull front brakes for my vintage fixie conversion. The Old brakes just aren't nearly as strong as modern brakes, even when using back pressure on the rear.
Glad to have this tip today.
If you need a quick reference of available long-reach brakes - both nutted and recessed:
Nutted:
Tektro R559: 55-73mm
Tektro 800A: 61-78mm
No-name brand caliper on AliExpress: 61-79mm ("1 Set Bicycle Brake Racing Road bike Dual Pivot brake Aluminum Side Pull Caliper Front & Rear 61-79mm Long Reach")
Tektro 900A: 72-92mm
Z.star SCJ007: 73-93mm
Tektro C326 (extra-wide, for balloon tire rims only): 79-99mm
Recessed:
Tektro R556 (early variant of R559 with non-lockable quick release): 55-73mm
Tektro R559 (same arms as nutted): 55-73mm
Dia-Compe BRS 202: 55-75mm
IRD B76: 57-76mm
Dia-Compe DL800: 61-79mm
@@cudak888 that's awesome, thanks! Because I turned a 26" into a 700c I need extra length. Cheers!
It looks great, i was expecting neww bikes videos, i knew corona virus, hold us up, thanks, say hello joe.
What model are the tektro brakes?
Thank you in advance
what brakes did you installed r539 or r559?
I’m online looking at Tektro brakes for my ‘86 Fuji 12spd road bike and I’m not sure if I need short reach or long reach? My tires are 27”x1-1/4”. The original brakes are Dia-Compe N500
This is amazing, thanks! I have the same issue with my old vintage bike and horrible horrible weissmann breaks. can I, instead of drilling out the back just use the front brake? Say I get 2 front breaks? drilling out the front seems a lot easier tbf.
Yes, you can just use a nut and washers.
Database of nutted (and recessed) long-reach dual-pivots that'll solve this problem without resorting to frame butchery:
Nutted:
Tektro R559: 55-73mm
Tektro 800A: 61-78mm
No-name brand caliper on AliExpress: 61-79mm ("1 Set Bicycle Brake Racing Road bike Dual Pivot brake Aluminum Side Pull Caliper Front & Rear 61-79mm Long Reach")
Tektro 900A: 72-92mm
Z.star SCJ007: 73-93mm
Tektro C326 (extra-wide, for balloon tire rims only): 79-99mm
Recessed:
Tektro R556 (early variant of R559 with non-lockable quick release): 55-73mm
Tektro R559 (same arms as nutted): 55-73mm
Dia-Compe BRS 202: 55-75mm
IRD B76: 57-76mm
Dia-Compe DL800: 61-79mm
Feel free to install those on your bike.
Interesting!
I have center pull brakes.. can I do this too?.
very useful and well done video. I was trying to change my bike to update the brakes,a question because I missed the measure of the drill tip you use (sorry but I'm Italian and I struggle to understand ).video very nice. Thank you
8mm or 5/16".
Hi RJ, thanks for all your videos! I'm working on converting my dad's old steel frame Nishiki into a gravel tourer and this video is exactly what I need to get new brakes on. Could I also use a rounded file if I'm careful about not making the hole too big?
Sounds like a lot of work. But sure.
I'm not sure if you have a vid already on this...but I'm trying to mount a rim brake on a newer to me and the bike a fork that originally had disc brakes..but now I wanna try to not have to upgrade everything else like brakes/lever/wheel etc. This is a Marzocchi exr air fork with some diacomp rim brakes that I have the correct length of studs that the arms fit onto...but the arms hit the fork before the hardware can seat in as they did on the old rigid fork. This is on an older Specialized Hardrock. Thanks for any help. I can make a small vid if need be to link you to it to show my dilemma.
Thanks again for an excellent vdo my Colnago Super circa late 60’s has nutted brake bolts and I was reluctant to drill out the forks an rear brake bridge for fear of messing up
After watching this vdo I am more comfortable about the fix. The old calliper brakes are not as efficient as the more modern style and effective brake pads don’t fit
Yeah, I am assume you are joking. This 80's Cannondale isn't a 60's Colnago Super.
At the risk of being troll baited, I'm going to dive into this one: Don't screw up a '60s Colnago. Here's a database of nutted (and recessed!) dual-pivots that fit:
Nutted:
Tektro R559: 55-73mm
Tektro 800A: 61-78mm
No-name brand caliper on AliExpress: 61-79mm ("1 Set Bicycle Brake Racing Road bike Dual Pivot brake Aluminum Side Pull Caliper Front & Rear 61-79mm Long Reach")
Tektro 900A: 72-92mm
Z.star SCJ007: 73-93mm
Tektro C326 (extra-wide, for balloon tire rims only): 79-99mm
Recessed:
Tektro R556 (early variant of R559 with non-lockable quick release): 55-73mm
Tektro R559 (same arms as nutted): 55-73mm
Dia-Compe BRS 202: 55-75mm
IRD B76: 57-76mm
Dia-Compe DL800: 61-79mm
@@cudak888 Thanks! this was exactly what i needed to know regarding lenghts
Dear sir, i found your video's very usefull, can You make some about overhaul Giant Monoshock od Cannondale Headshock front fork. Thank in advance, keep the good job
Coool
Hey RJ, I've been watching your videos for some time now and I trust your judgement on things that pertain to bikes. Have you ever waxed your chains or drivetrains? Do you have any experience on this or what are your thoughts. Thanks in advance.
No. I use a chain scrubber and a teflon based lube. Is it the best? No idea.
bought myself some tektro r559 for my interesting bike project
the bike was never meant to have front brakes installed so the distance from bolt hole to rim surface is huge
hoping the r559 will work
i kinda randomly bought from cheapest online store 55€ total
i was planning to make some metal plate or drill a hole couple mm down or something
but i received the recessed nut mount model
maybe i can make it work
Use the short recessed nut, but don't put it through the back of the fork. Instead, push it up into the inside of the steerer from the bottom. You can reach a 5 mm Allen wrench in through the hole in the back of the fork, and poke the short caliper bolt in from the front.
Could someone please tell me how to remove the brake lever from a combo shifter I don’t know how to
RJ, nice video once again. But this time I have a question for you. I’m currently modernising my 1983 Peugeot Racing Bike. It currently has the original Breaks on it which are Weinmann center pull breaks. in my process of modernising it, I also want to install new breaks with dual pivot. But the frame seems to need rather long breaks and dual pivot breaks are often very short. Is there a way I can install them onto the bike anyways? I was thinking of some sort of extension to make it work.
Thanks in advance and greetings from Germany!
You need to find long reach brakes. Or maybe a dropper bolt
I'm converting a 1980s peugeot to a single speed. It has a helico rear hub what would be a good replacement that would stay true to the bikes Era
Nice drill ! Only shoes for brakes atm man
Which one? The right angle one? I like it. Way better than the corded Dewalt right angle drill I used to have. I hated the trigger on that. Way to easy to accidentally bump and trigger it on. Dangerous! I like this one.
I accidentally widened both holes on the rear brake, but have the curved washers on both sides. Should I be worried about the steel's ability to handle the braking force now?
Question: why can't you just drill the hole right through on the back of the bike? I don't have a right angle drill & I don't want to buy one just for 1 hole.
Because then the weaken the brake bridge more than you need to. Also, not you will not have a solid brake mount since you will have slop on that side.
this video helped me i thought im gonna sell my new callipers
Hey! I could use those Modolo Flashes
I don't sell parts.
Hey, what of de brakes don’t reach the rim ? Do you have a video that shows how to deal with that ? Or should u just buy new brakes ?
Get longer reach brakes. ruclips.net/video/L5pl0zrlHbg/видео.html
What can i do if the screw is not long enough
Hope you also replace the wheels, that Cannondale looks beautiful
I haven't gotten that far yet.
I think it looks ten times better and with the new dual pivot brakes they won't jump out of alignment as much
I use another method. I bought two front brakes. When installing front,i drill hole to larger. But drilling rear i decide will be too hard,so i install on rear front brake,using nut from old brake)
Did it work?
@@milkshake69O yes
im looking to upgrade my back brakes...currently they have v-brakes but when it gets wet, it doesnt work very well...im not ready to do a rotor conversion just yet...so would you suggest these style brakes instead of the v? or just try to upgrade the pads?
These are road bike brakes. V-brakes are probably the best rim brakes you will get. Get better v-brakes. Better pads.
@@RJTheBikeGuy ok thx
I find drilling into metal strangely satisfying and scary!
What's the best way to ask a tech query? Your Facebook page? Thanks for all the amazingly useful videos
Here or there.
@@RJTheBikeGuy ok cheers ... Here goes...
My steel frame mountain bike fell off a roof rack and landed on drive side crank. I knew something was bent.. seems to be the BB shell. I've come to install a new octalink BB, but the two halves, once threaded in, are out of line with each other by a couple of mm. So the bb shell has remained cylindrical but the ends are no longer parallel. I'm thinking this is a write off?!
does anyone know any tricks to get off a seized v brake "arm"? or should i just live without a rear brake?
Penetrating oil and some force. Maybe some heat.
Hope your back is better. That fall off the bridge was nasty.
Much better. I still get random pains.
So glad my plan is possible, i thought i was going to destroy my bike and make it unsafe.
So what is the benefit of a recess brake versus a traditional one? Looks like the operate in the same fashion.
Dual pivot vs single pivot
There are plenty of recessed mount single pivot brakes.
I wanted dual pivot brakes.
Recessed brakes were invented in the late 1970's as part of the aero movement. No practical difference from nutted. The only benefit at this point are the additional options that recessed opens one up to (which is still limited, as nutted brakes are often long reach, and nutted long reach dual pivots already exist).
I wanted to do this as well, luckily i measured my reach before and noticed i had a crazy long reach (Weinmann side pull breaks from the 70s)... I'll need to get a different fork before :( Now I'm thinking about changing also the bearings as i have already the fork out, any advice on removing the old ones? On RUclips, people seem to hammer the old ones out?
They make long reach calipers. Hammer the bearings out? Do you mean the cups? ruclips.net/video/VkY879pMafE/видео.html
@@RJTheBikeGuy that thing is awesome!