Converting From Cantilever To V-Brakes
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- Опубликовано: 19 май 2016
- I show how to convert from cantilever brakes to V-brakes. The cantilever brakes on the bike were all broken when I got it. I could have replaced them with new cantilever brakes, but I decided to convert it over to v-brakes instead.
Installing Trigger Shifters/V Brake Levers On Mountain Bike :
• Installing Trigger Shi...
Origin8 Clamp-on Cable Stops:
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Hi dude. I have a racing/road bike.
Looking to alter my brakes to v type. Would I need a new set of standard handle bars? The rest is pretty straight forward just unsure about the handle bars
I love your videos if I have a problem I lock at you videos
I love everything about this guy’s approach to repairing bikes! Super methodical, and performs all the jobs (in detail) bike enthusiasts think about, but haven’t yet done. I even notice his bare feet in the workshop - so keen to get out and work on the bike. I know the feeling! Thanks for great videos. You never fail to please!
Working on your bike after coming from work and successfully fixing or upgrading it is so satisfying, especially when you take it on that first ride after.
I have followed your videos over the past 3 weeks and have successfully restored my 25 year old mountain bike. Thankyou for making it so easy to follow.
I know this is an old video but, you did a great job in detail with explaining how to change out the brakes while showing how to professionally trim everything! Thanks! I bought a 2015 Trek Verve 3 about a month ago that someone took good care of and I love it! The ergonomics have been a God send to my wrists, neck and shoulders. I plan to maintain it myself and your videos are a great help! Subscribed!
That dime trick is an absolute 10/10 idea for toeing in. I always learn something new from your videos, and I really appreciate it. That’s just my 10¢ though...
it's nice to see a positive comment in youtube for a change.
I heard rubberband works too
Where was the Nickel in the handlebar grip. To keep it from ripping after a crash.
@@danc2014 nickel in handlebar grip? never heard of this
Business card folded a few times. You can vary your toe in this way.
I would have to say your tutorial is perfect. I enjoyed watching this and felt a great sense of confidence working on my brakes. Thank you so much!
those Trek crmo frames are just amazing, had one for 2 years back in 90s and it was probably the most light frame i had back in the time, even lighter than aluminum frames
Thanks - adjusting v-brakes on used bikes is such a pain. Other than checking if the wheel is centered, I bang my head trying to adjust them. This gives me a better overview! 👍
You explain very clearly and systematically. I adjusted my brake after watching this video and everything works smoothly. Thank you so much, RJ!
I just have to say a massive thanks for the vids you upload (read: hard work and care). I don't watch all of them, but when I need to do something on my bike, this is the first place I look. thanks again!!
"This noodle doesn't need a ferrule".... Exactly what I needed to hear. I thought I was going nuts because a ferrule wasn't fitting the noodle on my mtb, and the Tektro on my bmx bike has one. Thanks a million!
I know this is an older video but this was very insightful! Gives me a lot more confidence in converting an old Bridgestone MB-2 over from Cantilevers.
Good job there buddy! I have been building bikes for the last 30 something years! I am still learning even now with all the new stuff coming out!
I found this post/video while searching to change the brakes.
Even though I hardly understand English, I figuratively understood everything perfectly as a German.
just great! Excellent ! Thank you !
The three holes for the spring on the frame are actually meant to be used, instead of always using the middle hole and then bending the spring to adjust. Just try using the upper or lower holes. Otherwise, great tutorial! Thanks.
Switching holes is a pretty crude adjustment. (You saw how many times RJ adjusted the bend.) Plus, it's simpler to bend than to unscrew the bolts when you're going to have bend the springs anyway. And while RJ's frame had 3 holes, some frames only have one.
This is perfect! I've got an old Schwinn that somebody gave me in college, and desperately needs some upgrades.
I wasn't sure if I could tackle the brake conversion, but this is an incredibly thorough tutorial! Thank you!
:3
Excellent video. He's a very good teacher. I particularly liked the suggestion about using the dime to set the toe in. Every detail of the entire installation process was covered very clearly. Thank you.
And again, just what I was looking for,and couldn't find anywhere on the internet.RJ saves the day !! Thanks for sharing this !! Sincere greetings from the Netherlands
I literally did the same thing yesterday to a Trek 950 SingleTrack, and now it's in my Recommended.
This is a most informative video, well done! I had already cut my cable housing and installed the new Shimano V brakes but could not get the left (cable insert) side to move very much with brake lever applied. I tried the screw adjustments demonstrated here, but no joy. I then re-cut a new piece of housing a few inches longer, so the bend was more gradual (as demonstrated here) and my problem is solved. If you are in doubt, cut it a little longer as it's more cost effective if & when you need to trim. I also liked the use of an awl to open the cut ends, works great. Excellent video, thank you!
I have a lot of bicycles and thanks to your videos, I do all repairs, maintenance, and modifications. I've acquired enough Park and Pedro's tools to do the jobs correctly. When you showed how to bend the tension spring on the V-brake, my high school shop teacher would have described the bending as re-calibrating the angle. I derive much satisfaction from taking care of my beautiful bicycles. Thank you.
RJ! You make great videos. Lots of times I watch some of your videos that I don't even have a need for, but I just like to watch them!
I do use threadlocker on V/Canti brake mounting screws because: 1. You don't want them coming loose. 2. You don't want them rusting. Threadlocker, especially if you are slightly generous with it, seals the threads and keeps out water. (Not too generous!)
You could grease the threads instead. That also keeps water out and, if the screws are properly tightened, they are unlikely to back out.
I would not install them dry.
Nice simple tip for adjusting the toe in with a dime. I'd previously tried doing it with a rubber band as I'd seen in a Park tool video, but this seems easier. Learn something new every day from you, RJ!
You make the best bike videos. And give a gigantic contribution to cycling. Thanks!!!
Glad I found your channel. You're awesome. Saving me a lot of time, money and pain as I rebuild a KHS Town and Country and a Trek 800. Thanks bro.
This is simply excellent.
Very clear.
Very helpful.
One thing I do when replacing cables is to give the outer cable a couple of squirts of light oil.
I have no idea whether it's necessary, but many years ago in a Balkan winter I had my cables freeze. Solid levers concentrate the mind very quickly. This trick seemed to stop that from happening. 😊
I've also seen tying a rubber band onto the brake pad, or putting several Post-It notes on the rim, to act as a temporarily attached spacer for adjusting the toe.
I needed the tip for the Origin 8 cable stop clamp. My wife has a Trek 730 and it had that same silly metal cable tube that only works with cantilever brakes. For a temporary workaround, I ran the full cable housing from the brake lever to the noodle and zip-tied the cable to the top tube. It actually works pretty well, just a little unsightly with the 3 zip ties.
every time i think i know what i am doing, i find one of your videos and realize i was doing it all wrong !! these simple bikes are far harder to work on than a high end road bike. i have them. they are simple to maintain and service but all these dept. store bikes are different and so varied in parts. crazy. finding an expensive new derailleur is easy but it is much harder to find dept store parts sometimes.
thanks for the continuing education !!
These are NOT department store bikes. Older bikes yes, but they weren't department store bikes.
very nice video, thanks for sharing...
if i may add, instead of bending the return springs of the brakes 23:50 maybe relocate the other end of the spring that goes into the mounting posts' holes 4:05.
*most times when a brake doesn't move like at all, a large L-R imbalance like shown with this bike, there is too much friction on the mounting post, dirt / corrosion / sometimes damage. so inspect the post and brake itself in that point and proceed accordingly.
What a great tutorial, thanks for posting this RJ!
I'm watching this video while searching the inter-web and came across a blog that has to be RJ. Definitely a pic of this exact bike. V brakes vs. Canti
Thanks for the guide! Super hepful and well explained! Time to check the new breaks on my bike!!!
My daughters bike had a terrible noise when the brakes were applied. The part about "toe-in" fixed it! Thanks.
RJ, great video. Even though I did my conversion a few months ago, I still enjoyed watching a professional. I had been fighting with cantilever brakes on that bike for years. I do not regret doing the conversion. The bike actually stops now. :)
+NJP Vlogs I need to do the same on my old bike!
+andrewford80
It is actually a very easy conversion. Wish I would have known it was that easy years ago. Would have saved me all those years of struggling with the cantilevers.
Believe it or not, they went on a 12 year old "Wal-Mart" bike.
What model v brakes did you choose and why? Suppose anything is going to be an improvement on cantilevers!
+andrewford80
I don't recall what brand I got. I actually ordered them on E-bay last year. Just got round to putting them on this spring. They weren't really that expensive.
I would suggest checking your local bike shop. They might have them in stock...and for about the same cost as some you find online. Just be sure they are good quality. You really don't want a brake to fail on you due to poor quality. It is worth a few extra dollars for your safety and peace of mind.
NJP Vlogs Thanks :)
I really liked this video, it is very informative. I came into a Trek 930, and I am thinking of making the same conversion on my bike.
Thanks! I didn't know I would have to change the levers as well as the brakes. That saved some unnecessary hassle.
Except you don't have to change them.
Had issues with the V-Brake not moving on one side. You showed me the way to fix it. THANK YOU
Thank you Troy! When you are a beginner, the slightest things must be explained. Got a V-Brake kit, a chinese one, and have been hesitating to proceed. DUH.
We were just about to do this conversion on my friends bike, this video will be helpful. Thanks RJ!
+Earl Grey
I recently converted one of my bikes from cantilever to V-brakes. Trust me, you will not regret doing the conversion. Just be sure you have the proper brake levers for V-brakes.
thanks so much! I realized what I needed to do. Was doing the same canti to vbrake conversion on my tandem.
Thanx, Mr. Bike Guy, for detailed and informative video on how to do it!
Now I am fully inspired AND equipped to convert my oldie Comanche Prairie to v-brake system. Thumbs up, subscribed
and that's a GO for me! )))
Many many thanks for that video.
Best regards from Italy.
i love the very good ,clear detailed explanation and step by step instructions in this wonderful video, which is very helpful. Thank u very much to the video creator :) :)
Excellent, I just learned the awl cable housing trick, thanks.
Amazing, just amazing videos. Greeting from Bulgaria!
I was making the switch to v brakes and when I ran the rear brake cable, I realized I did not have a cable stop on the frame in the correct place. Doh! This vid provided the fix.
hey bro, it was very fun and wonderful to follow you and learn so many things that i wasn't known before
God bless you
and Good Luck
Always use locktite on the brake bolt installation. The blue locktite is the best way to keep the mounting bolts from coming loose.
You are the man RJ!!!! Thanks!!!
Awesome. Thanks for the super helpful and simple explanation!
Great Video! You know your stuff! Great tips!
Thank you! i have to fit V brakes on a new frame i just acquired and didn't have a clue, now i do. Just be careful working barefoot, dropping cable cutter on your foot would be very painful.
Thanks, this video was very help in my making the decision to move forward with this conversion in restoring my Trek 950 mountain bike. Though I could have gone without the gnarly bare feet! LOL
Another helpful, informative video.
Good stuff.
Really good explanations. Thank you.
Actually if you don't have any alcohol at hand rubber grips can be installed or removed with ordinary water. If you're not bothered by wetting the tube and longer drying time. But it works exactly the same otherwise.
Nice idea about the dime, never seen this method before.
Sergey Galin sexy woman
I've had to deal with cantilever brakes that even with a little dry chain oil the arms were tight on the mounts. Super fine emery cloth, and then polishing compound fixed it.
You can get flexible brake "noodles" they're made using a flexible mesh sheath instead of a hard tube, you don't end up with such a big loop of brake cable between the frame and the actual brake.
explained real well in detail
Cool video man. Thanks for posting
I like those Shimano EF-51s. I like the trigger shifting better than grip shifting. I have the same set on my Mongoose Switchback Expert except the tops are silver instead of black. They work real good.
Be sure to check the crankset many bikes of this era had recalled crank sets. I did the same mods on a 720 and it had recalled crankset, replaced at no charge by Shimano.
U GOT IT!!!
Good job.
Thank you for the through demonstration. I am about to pick up an old Raleigh and the front brakes are missing completely and the rear brakes are just hanging down like the ones in your bike. I want to put a good set of V Brakes on it. And hopefully it doesn't need much else. If it does, I know where to find a demonstration video. Thanks again.
I really enjoyed this.
Thanx for sharing
Good vid! I've always wondered why they bothered with the bare cable sections at all. Just for looks or an easy and clean way to secure the cable maybe?
thanks for the video, im about to commence with this same operation
nice job i learned something new today thank you
Great explanation
Thanks muchissimo RJ for a thorough and simple to follow Instructioal o_o
I just built myself a second bike and had so much unnecessary trouble with this conversion. I got like 6 month old v-brakes from my dad and he already had bent those springarms. I didn't even think about that and now I have my back brakes on different holes, it works but gotta fix it someday.
14:51 is just what I was looking for thanks RJ.
Great video. Very helpful.
C'est très claire.Merci pour les conseils.
Perfect video. Thanks, dude!
Masterclass. Thanks for sharing !! Even managed it in bare feet :) :)
Rj My brake alignment tool arrived yesterday, on the first brake pads blocks i had to readjust by eyeball the second bike with the tool seemed be okay. Need to fit a few more pads to get an honest opinion
Good video. I've decided to change my Trek and Bianchi bike to V-Brakes. I've tried several pads and none of them come close to the braking of my low end Schwinn hybrid bikes.
Last time I fitted a v brake, there was no internet let alone RUclips. I needed this vid in 1997.
lol
I Cannot even begin to emphasize how much BETTER these work than the Cantilever brake arrangement!!
Not too long ago, I fully restored one of my BMX bikes (that I used to race in 1996, when I was 16 y/o).
I REALLY wanted to keep the whole bike "period correct" for the mid 90's, but the brakes were just flat-out TERRIBLE!
I figured at least I could keep the old brake parts in a box...so I went for a $12 or something shimano setup, and the cool guy at the bike shop had an old anodized purple Tech-Lite lever, sitting in is tool box that he gave me (which was awesome, since I had blue/purple factory frame decals, and blue and purple anodized parts on the entire bike)...
Anyways, sorry to be rambling on! Just wanted to say, if you have small wheels (like 20" BMX) you WILL NOT regret this swap! I can lock the wheel up with my pinky finger now! :)
This is the best v brakes tutorial
A neighbor was tossing (and I saved from the crusher) an older Raleigh T50 that looks a LOT like the TREK in this video. I'll be replacing the original 3 x 7 paddle shifters and center pull brakes and will be referring to this video quite a bit. Thank You! :)
Well done bro for perfect video
Very helpful! Thanks a lot!
I see a 1990s styled mountain bike. I would like to hear how you decided to select handlebar height. My friends lament having to bend so far forward.
Could be the bike is too big, or the seat is too far back, or other things. Google "bike fit". www.bicycling.com/skills-tips/a20036352/bike-fit-0/
Good video! Helpful!
Thanks a lot. Very helpful ♥
Great stuff as always RJ, I didn't toe in the break pads on my old 10 speed's caliper breaks many years ago and it twisted the entire pad into the rim, giving me a nice scar on my chin for my efforts.
Great video. Thanks for the info.
this guy is a genius in working on bikes
nice vid man really helpful
Great vid, helpful, thanks mate
A well made and helpful video
Towards the end of the video he bends those springs, which can help. But first, try changing the hole. On my old BMX bike, my Shimano V-brakes didn't have any tension when the spring was in the middle hole. I changed it to the top hole, and it worked perfectly.
Dime in the backside of the brake pad. That's awesome. I was just eyeballing it. 🎉
do all those little parts and ferrules and noodles etc come with the kit or where do you get all those little bits?
This is a useful video... I was going to do this on an older gary fisher
Hahaha! 11:20 English language is so funny! Great tutorial by the way. Just what I needed! Thanks!
Обрнут Пиктограм slot haha
What's so funny about the word slot
is it possible to do this without the cable clamp on the frame just a straight cable housing up on the v brake?