The instructor in the only welding class I ever had said there are three P's to welding castings. Preheat, post heat and prayer. You covered all three.
How about some updates on the staus of projects that have disappeared from view. Stoker Engine, Metal planer, Monarch lathe, Radial drill press. Thanks for all the great work you do.
@14:00 compare the braze on the piece to that shown 14 seconds later. He's done some more work. The braze originally looked like poor adhesion and later it looks better.
Looking at a lot of the replies, a large percentage thought that you should just pop out the rivets and make a new hub and tab part... That can be done, BUT, where do you draw the line? You could just take measurements and make the entire engine over with modern materials and processes, what would you have? Certainly NOT an old historic engine. A lot of the engines you see at meets have repairs on them that look like they were done by a blacksmith. I think that is appropriate. What you did here is also appropriate. When I was a boy in the '50s & 60s, I saw repairs that looked like they might have been done in a campfire! Some with Oxy/Acet & coathangers! Whatever it took to make it work! I don't know how a lot of people can criticize this work other than possibly they just stumbled on the video and haven't watched any of what you do... Keep it up!! The true believers are out here. Not trying to make it sound like a cult or anything. Just saying that, to me, what you do to repair and utilize old cast iron machinery keeps it in it's niche, old cast iron machinery. Repair of CNC stuff is found elsewhere. Another excellent video and explanation. 69yo 45 mi NE of Denver metro in the country maintainin' mah distances! You keep safe wherever you are.. Michael in Colorado.
I will comment about tig brazing. It is very very very effective at sheet metal. When you don't need a weld and you have thin material and warpage may be a concern, tig brazing with silicon bronze is my goto. All the racecar chassis builders out there know what I'm talkin about! Well, the ones that put in the effort do at least. Things like your lexan window mounting rails and tabs, dzus brackets, etc.
I love these little repairs of old cast iron pieces. Each one presents unique challenges. I would have turned and faced the gear shaft to clean all that old repair completely off, and made a sleeve for it with a tab sticking out all as one piece, but you know what they say about opinions...
I think I might have approached the engineering on this one a little differently. I'd have put the gear on the lathe and turned down the shaft hub extension about half the thickness and then machined a separate collar by just milling away part of a sleeve leaving behind the tab that engages the lobe as part of the collar making it all one piece of metal. Make it so it could be shrink fitted on to the turned down extension on the gear and you end up with a very mechanically solid attachment for the tab. I don't doubt the brazed tab will work but I just can't bring myself to trust the long term strength of the butt braze as much as I would the shrink fitted collar. Love your videos, Keith. Keep up the great work.
I would have done the same but maybe the owner wanted to try one more fix of the original. I suspect this design is not ideal for the stresses involved.
Hi Keith you should try carbon brazing with the silicone bronze.You use a carbon as the heat sauce ( electrode ) and the silicone filler rod.I used to do a lot of that and found that it was very easy to do compared to the tig. you place the filler wire in the area you want to fill then applyling the carbon to the silicon to melt it into the joint.You can get a very fine build up and control the weld easier as well.
I was thinking about that job & wondered why you didn't redrill the oil hole on the other side of the repair, that way you could have used that real estate on your brazing and locked into that hole too? I suppose if it fails there's always sending it to Windy Hill Foundry to mold up & pure a new cast iron one.
I like jobs that involve running over to the lathe, because - let’s face it - what machinist doesn’t enjoy getting to use the lathe? ❤️😄 Of course, one could say the same about a horizontal/vertical milling machine, too.
Hi Keith, stumbled on to your channel with the steam engine videos. I'm hooked and subscribed! I'm not a machinist, but I find your videos very interesting & educational. Much appreciated from Ontario Canada. Stay safe!
I wouldn't have thought it would have been that big of a deal to just machine a new hub with the tab to replace the broken one. Would be a rather easy project.
I had the same thought, given the original hub was held on with three rivets that could just be drilled out. There would also be the option then to turn it out of steel given the original casting failed as did the brazed repair. Seems like a good candidate to turn a steel hub and then machine out part of the end so you would be left with the tab all in once piece. Now I thought the mandrel was clever idea to hold it in place. Just can't help but think that once will be seen again.
Keith's entire channel is devoted to restoring classic, antique machinery not making new parts for them unless absolutely necessary. BTW, your comment about machining a new hub being easy tells me you have no clue about machining. There is a very obvious reason why that part was cast and not machined.
Quality video as always Keith. Abom79 figured out a nice set up to be able to show whats actually going on during welding. I'm sure he would be more than willing to share it with you.
Abom79 got the "set up" from Jodie at 'Welding Tips and Tricks'. For years, Jodie has had the best welding videos out there. Lately he has given some hints to some of the other RUclipsrs and it is appreciated by us fans!
I kinda thought you would have built the hub that was riveted to the gear. Good video, I've heard you and Mr. Pete say, there's a million ways to repair something.
4 года назад
.....and in some very tough STEEL. Something about this design seems to invite shock failure....?
since this flange was riveted onto the main gear making a new one would have been a good alternative as well-all the work done on mill and lathe-no welding/brazing...
Question for you please. On your torch, do you use different electrode stick out or arc length with cast vs steel? Thank you for all the great content!!!! 💪🏽😊
Keith is a master of understanding an application and only doing what is necessary. That's how he gets more actual projects done in one day than most OCD/perfectionists get done in a week.
Torch seems more forgiving. TIG needs good coordination and steady hands and in this case it is also quite constricted in the work area. This made me motivated, thou, so have to buy some rods and try it out myself. Up to now I have used it mostly for Alu welding, with little sidetracks to stainless and steel works. Did some steel artwork, just for the fun of it.
@chris0tube Let me know when you have film of you milling the entire body of a machine tool and having it checked on a CMM and having every surface (12) all correctly flat , square, and parallel over a 4ft by 2 ft travel within .002". Until then I will just have to assume you are one of those people that likes to pontificate about their ideal world and how things should be without having done anything themselves. Some people just want their stuff fixed. If they wanted a new one at 10 times that cost that would be an option but most people don't. They want to be able to just keep using and enjoying what they have.
How much do you spend on acetylene every month. Given the amount of time you use a torch just for heat you might consider using propane or natural gas as the fuel. Save the acytelene for welding or brazing. Nice repair. The mandrel was genius.
Want to try some tig brazing sometime in the future... I learned to flame braze 50 years ago on large castings and smaller stuff so I guess it is still my go to for repairing castings..I have an old Eutectic welder with hi freq set up for tig that I will try brazing with sometime maybe.. Cheers; Mike in Louisiana (Ramsay 1) :)
My thoughts as well- just turn an entire new piece out of cast iron and mill away the end. Most of these hit and miss engines are for shows and meets, so that brazed unit will not look good in operation.
To the old iron enthusiast, one is the challenge two is keeping everything as original as feasible, weather it is internal parts and now even existing paint and or rust. Some call it patina but once the original outer surface is is removed you can not get it back. Yes we can recreate almost any part. Somehow it is not the same, not saying there is anything wrong with brandy new parts old school to some is the end goal.
@Anifco67 You might have to fabricate the pipe out of stock and braze it on, then a good working over with a file and needle scaler to texture it to look like it was cast and after being painted it takes an expert on that machine to even spot the repair.
I don't know anything about any of this stuff, but do you ever get the feeling that when keith is talking he is thinking, meh, it'd be easier to just make a new part from raw stock?
Not a machinist, however it looks like you could have spun that on a lath and turned of down a bit, and put a reverse(?) thread on it and then put and internal thread on a piece of stock and then ground or cut the 3/4 off you didn't need? Or I could talking out my butt, silicon bronze it pretty strong however I read that ALU-Bronze is stronger.
Your right this could be done the way you suggest by building a new piece. Had the tab and casting disintegrated you would have to. Here you have the original components that are still usable. Why not try to maintain the same components by repair? I have an antique tractor that was built in '52 or 53. There are significant modifications done to it to fulfill a specific purpose. I don't want to change ANY of the outer, visible portions of this tractor to preserve its story. The LAST thing I want to do is give it the appearance of a "built by me" tractor. I am thoroughly cleaning it and then will apply Owatrol or Penetrol to preserve the patina.
@@stephenstrohacker7863 the old conundrum, preservation, conservation, restoration or even repair, pick any one from four and upset three quarters of the population.😉
@@littleworkshopofhorrors2395 very true! They are called tractor Nazi's in my group. I ride both sides of that arguement but always try to retain the thought that the OWNER can do what they want. The Cub I have I'm doing a mechanical restoration on to not change what can be seen. The O-4 is the oldest known and 11th made. Anything needing replacement WILL be original materials. NO reproductions. Why? Because it's a low number unit, there was a 2nd production year change/update, and why not build the earliest known tractor with the earliest known original components? If any deserve the "Correct Police, Tractor Nazi" this one deserves it. Plus my family owns it, that alone let's us do what we want with it.
@@stephenstrohacker7863 just to add to the problem, as something gains age or rarity the owner becomes a custodian of an historic artifact and gains obligations to history, or not.
@@littleworkshopofhorrors2395agreed. Which is why I'm doing what I am to both. Key thing here though. The O-4 was missing the tinwork, pan and one piston-rod assembly. Matching missing patina isn't happening. Cub however was complete just stuck. Both dictated their outcome.
Honestly, if this doesn't work I would separate the two castings and replicate the inner portion (the broken part) in bronze using investment casting. I wouldn't use iron because my results in iron have not been good enough, not enough skill in iron.
Hey Keith have you considered learning how to oxy-acetylene weld cast iron? It's not difficult, and the results would look much nicer on your vintage repairs. It might even work with TIG.
carlsharp909 He prefers to braze. He’s mentioned it in a fair few previous videos that involve cast iron. Personally I quite like the look of the dissimilar metals.
TIL what a "hit & miss engine" is. Video I found explaining it: ruclips.net/video/fYKxwno6QUY/видео.html TL/DW: The engine has a flywheel with a centrifugal mechanism. When the flywheel slows down, the engine fires. Under low load, most strokes will be non-power strokes.
Considering that it was welded before and broke more than once I would say the design is flawed. There is a pretty good chance this will break again. I hate to say this but it would have been better to cut a whole new piece out of steel and rivet that to the gear instead.
I'm afraid that piece always will be prone to break off due to the poor design. This part should have been made of steel and not cast iron which is way too brisk
@@mwilliamshs OK, grammar police. Perhaps I should have used 'the linguistical equivalent of' instead of 'descriptive of' . Didn't mean to confuse a great perfectionist such as yourself with such a triviality and error in word usage. Please accept my most profound apology, O Great Master of all languages and dialects. Have a great National Scrabble Day!
Good grief!! Brags on his ability to braze but contaminated the puddle with the tungsten multiple times, long arced it the rest of the time then grinds a chamfer on the part it attaches to make his hack repair job work....then talks bad about the last guy's work while he's placing the parts on top of the packing material in the box. It would have been a much better fix to unbolt the gear from the part and machine a new one. Keith, this is embarrassing. Have you no pride in the quality of your work?
"I don't need to end face this ...but" You are a machinist!!
Very Nice, Very Professional!
The instructor in the only welding class I ever had said there are three P's to welding castings. Preheat, post heat and prayer. You covered all three.
oh ain't that the truth!!
I know it's kind of randomly asking but does anyone know a good site to stream newly released series online?
@Abdiel Ernesto I use Flixzone. You can find it by googling :)
@Larry Elisha Yea, I have been watching on Flixzone for years myself :D
@Larry Elisha thanks, I signed up and it seems like a nice service :) Appreciate it!!
I would never would have thought to make a mandrel. Good job!
You, Keith Fenner and Brian Block get the most interesting challenges!
Thinking around corners. Well done.
You always amaze me, the solutions you come up with. Well done. Another old engine will live to run another day.
How about some updates on the staus of projects that have disappeared from view. Stoker Engine, Metal planer, Monarch lathe, Radial drill press. Thanks for all the great work you do.
@14:00 compare the braze on the piece to that shown 14 seconds later. He's done some more work. The braze originally looked like poor adhesion and later it looks better.
Looking at a lot of the replies, a large percentage thought that you should just pop out the rivets and make a new hub and tab part... That can be done, BUT, where do you draw the line? You could just take measurements and make the entire engine over with modern materials and processes, what would you have? Certainly NOT an old historic engine. A lot of the engines you see at meets have repairs on them that look like they were done by a blacksmith. I think that is appropriate. What you did here is also appropriate. When I was a boy in the '50s & 60s, I saw repairs that looked like they might have been done in a campfire! Some with Oxy/Acet & coathangers! Whatever it took to make it work! I don't know how a lot of people can criticize this work other than possibly they just stumbled on the video and haven't watched any of what you do... Keep it up!! The true believers are out here. Not trying to make it sound like a cult or anything. Just saying that, to me, what you do to repair and utilize old cast iron machinery keeps it in it's niche, old cast iron machinery. Repair of CNC stuff is found elsewhere. Another excellent video and explanation. 69yo 45 mi NE of Denver metro in the country maintainin' mah distances! You keep safe wherever you are.. Michael in Colorado.
Scientists say that the human body replaces all of its cells every 7-10 years, so none of us is the original person we were 10 years ago.
Morning Keith, morning coffee and a great video from you! Stay safe and virus free! God bless and Thanks for sharing!👍👍👍👍👍
Bless you Keith for all the new content, keeping me sane.
I will comment about tig brazing. It is very very very effective at sheet metal. When you don't need a weld and you have thin material and warpage may be a concern, tig brazing with silicon bronze is my goto. All the racecar chassis builders out there know what I'm talkin about! Well, the ones that put in the effort do at least. Things like your lexan window mounting rails and tabs, dzus brackets, etc.
Hmm, filing that one away for later!
Nice repair job Keith, your customer should be pleased!
*STRONGER Than The Original in my guestimation, Sir.*
As always Keith....Thanks very much...!
I love these little repairs of old cast iron pieces. Each one presents unique challenges. I would have turned and faced the gear shaft to clean all that old repair completely off, and made a sleeve for it with a tab sticking out all as one piece, but you know what they say about opinions...
Nicely done repair!
I can definitely see the advantage of TIG when brazing a small part. The use of a fixture to hold alignment is critical in a successful repair. Thanks
I think I might have approached the engineering on this one a little differently. I'd have put the gear on the lathe and turned down the shaft hub extension about half the thickness and then machined a separate collar by just milling away part of a sleeve leaving behind the tab that engages the lobe as part of the collar making it all one piece of metal. Make it so it could be shrink fitted on to the turned down extension on the gear and you end up with a very mechanically solid attachment for the tab.
I don't doubt the brazed tab will work but I just can't bring myself to trust the long term strength of the butt braze as much as I would the shrink fitted collar.
Love your videos, Keith. Keep up the great work.
I would have done the same but maybe the owner wanted to try one more fix of the original.
I suspect this design is not ideal for the stresses involved.
My thoughts exactly. You can make the collar even more robust for longevity.
Very interesting video. Just goes to show you. All hope is not lost, old school repair technology comes to the rescue. Take care.
lol couldnt be further from the truth
Lmao "old school repair" with a tig welder
Hi Keith you should try carbon brazing with the silicone bronze.You use a carbon as the heat sauce ( electrode ) and the silicone filler rod.I used to do a lot of that and found that it was very easy to do compared to the tig. you place the filler wire in the area you want to fill then applyling the carbon to the silicon to melt it into the joint.You can get a very fine build up and control the weld easier as well.
I was thinking about that job & wondered why you didn't redrill the oil hole on the other side of the repair, that way you could have used that real estate on your brazing and locked into that hole too? I suppose if it fails there's always sending it to Windy Hill Foundry to mold up & pure a new cast iron one.
Did you make a little “haha” “mileage may vary” I’m not sure why that cracked me up but it did! 🤣 thank you for a great program!
Nice job...looks like it will work well!
I like jobs that involve running over to the lathe, because - let’s face it - what machinist doesn’t enjoy getting to use the lathe? ❤️😄 Of course, one could say the same about a horizontal/vertical milling machine, too.
A jubilee clip may have been helpful to hold that piece. Nice job on the braze, thanks for sharing.
Hi Keith, stumbled on to your channel with the steam engine videos. I'm hooked and subscribed! I'm not a machinist, but I find your videos very interesting & educational. Much appreciated from Ontario Canada. Stay safe!
Very clever machining the mandrel. Looks like a very usable repair.
Brilliant approach....
Keith, I noticed that you kept the alignment dowel in place as you brazed the part. What keeps the braze from bonding with the dowel?
I wouldn't have thought it would have been that big of a deal to just machine a new hub with the tab to replace the broken one. Would be a rather easy project.
I had the same thought, given the original hub was held on with three rivets that could just be drilled out. There would also be the option then to turn it out of steel given the original casting failed as did the brazed repair. Seems like a good candidate to turn a steel hub and then machine out part of the end so you would be left with the tab all in once piece. Now I thought the mandrel was clever idea to hold it in place. Just can't help but think that once will be seen again.
Keith's entire channel is devoted to restoring classic, antique machinery not making new parts for them unless absolutely necessary. BTW, your comment about machining a new hub being easy tells me you have no clue about machining. There is a very obvious reason why that part was cast and not machined.
Quality video as always Keith. Abom79 figured out a nice set up to be able to show whats actually going on during welding. I'm sure he would be more than willing to share it with you.
Abom79 got the "set up" from Jodie at 'Welding Tips and Tricks'. For years, Jodie has had the best welding videos out there. Lately he has given some hints to some of the other RUclipsrs and it is appreciated by us fans!
Well done son.. I enjoy your channel so much.. carry on!
Nice set up.
Thanks to your skill and ingenuity, there's going to be a happy hit'n'miss engine owner out there.
I kinda thought you would have built the hub that was riveted to the gear. Good video, I've heard you and
Mr. Pete say, there's a million ways to repair something.
.....and in some very tough STEEL. Something about this design seems to invite shock failure....?
Great work. Thanks for sharing.
Great work Keith. Looks like a good repair. Thank you for sharing.
since this flange was riveted onto the main gear making a new one would have been a good alternative as well-all the work done on mill and lathe-no welding/brazing...
Great solution to work holding!
subscribed after your repair for Leo (Sampson Boat Co.) and really enjoy your humble approach and attention to detail. Thank you sir.
good project too do As always you do an excellent job Keith thanks I ALWAYS LOOK FORWARD TOO YOUR VIDEOS !
Enjoyed
Nicely done Mr.Rucker, Not sure if it was the camera angle but it looked like there was a crack on the hub @12:54...
Parting line from the mold.
Nice neat job.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Very nice repair. Enjoyed.
Well Keith, we start with facing because it is tradition, I was told 🙂
Question for you please. On your torch, do you use different electrode stick out or arc length with cast vs steel? Thank you for all the great content!!!! 💪🏽😊
Gday Keith, nice repair job, please stay safe
Is this a situation where installing a dowel pin would help to locate the broken piece and lend strength to the joint?
I'm surprised you did not put the gear in the lathe to clean it up.
Keith is a master of understanding an application and only doing what is necessary. That's how he gets more actual projects done in one day than most OCD/perfectionists get done in a week.
hahaha, I think I am going to tig braze it... but I'll take the torch out anyways!
Of course, the torch is more fun!
Torch seems more forgiving. TIG needs good coordination and steady hands and in this case it is also quite constricted in the work area. This made me motivated, thou, so have to buy some rods and try it out myself. Up to now I have used it mostly for Alu welding, with little sidetracks to stainless and steel works. Did some steel artwork, just for the fun of it.
Nothing worse than fixing a mess that has been previously bodged !
There is something worse.
The previously botched job, was done by yourself.
"I'm gunna run over to my lathe". I'd like to see that.
He did that "off camera".
Sorry, Keith, I'd pay to not see that.
If it works it works.
@chris0tube Let me know when you have film of you milling the entire body of a machine tool and having it checked on a CMM and having every surface (12) all correctly flat , square, and parallel over a 4ft by 2 ft travel within .002". Until then I will just have to assume you are one of those people that likes to pontificate about their ideal world and how things should be without having done anything themselves. Some people just want their stuff fixed. If they wanted a new one at 10 times that cost that would be an option but most people don't. They want to be able to just keep using and enjoying what they have.
I use tig on AC when doing alumina/bronze,with enough cleaning so not to melt tunsten,100 freq.
How much do you spend on acetylene every month. Given the amount of time you use a torch just for heat you might consider using propane or natural gas as the fuel. Save the acytelene for welding or brazing. Nice repair. The mandrel was genius.
Hiya Keith
you the.... MAN !!
Want to try some tig brazing sometime in the future... I learned to flame braze 50 years ago on large castings and smaller stuff so I guess it is still my go to for repairing castings..I have an old Eutectic welder with hi freq set up for tig that I will try brazing with sometime maybe.. Cheers; Mike in Louisiana (Ramsay 1) :)
he keith about this project it is not would be best to just re machine a new part and river up on it?
2:59 Put your Gear in a Vice!
looks "World Class" to me. If something breaks that repair, there's something else going on with the machine.
Did you consult with Shopdogsam about this?
Instead of that vise grip, I might have tried a hose clamp. Less in your way and way less fiddly.
it almost look like it be less work just to make a whole part that attaches to that gear and swap the whole thing
kokodin . That will be part 2 if it fails again , some how I am sure it won't .
My thoughts as well- just turn an entire new piece out of cast iron and mill away the end. Most of these hit and miss engines are for shows and meets, so that brazed unit will not look good in operation.
To the old iron enthusiast, one is the challenge two is keeping everything as original as feasible, weather it is internal parts and now even existing paint and or rust. Some call it patina but once the original outer surface is is removed you can not get it back. Yes we can recreate almost any part. Somehow it is not the same, not saying there is anything wrong with brandy new parts old school to some is the end goal.
@Anifco67 You might have to fabricate the pipe out of stock and braze it on, then a good working over with a file and needle scaler to texture it to look like it was cast and after being painted it takes an expert on that machine to even spot the repair.
@@oldschool1993 I disagree, it shows the machine has been well used.. And has the scars to prove it, it's called character.
Don't forget to put the invoice in the box...
Looks like an impulse magneto drive.
I don't know anything about any of this stuff, but do you ever get the feeling that when keith is talking he is thinking, meh, it'd be easier to just make a new part from raw stock?
One thing to remember. You have to heat that cast iron up before welding it.
Which is exactly what he did
I was just emphasizing the importance. No need to rub your balls on every tool in the shop ape man.
@@ipissed ...Do you feel better now?
Do you charge people when you do repairs for them? Just wondering since you are in the shop and making videos with the repairs...
Not a machinist, however it looks like you could have spun that on a lath and turned of down a bit, and put a reverse(?) thread on it and then put and internal thread on a piece of stock and then ground or cut the 3/4 off you didn't need? Or I could talking out my butt, silicon bronze it pretty strong however I read that ALU-Bronze is stronger.
Your right this could be done the way you suggest by building a new piece. Had the tab and casting disintegrated you would have to. Here you have the original components that are still usable. Why not try to maintain the same components by repair? I have an antique tractor that was built in '52 or 53. There are significant modifications done to it to fulfill a specific purpose. I don't want to change ANY of the outer, visible portions of this tractor to preserve its story. The LAST thing I want to do is give it the appearance of a "built by me" tractor. I am thoroughly cleaning it and then will apply Owatrol or Penetrol to preserve the patina.
@@stephenstrohacker7863 the old conundrum, preservation, conservation, restoration or even repair, pick any one from four and upset three quarters of the population.😉
@@littleworkshopofhorrors2395 very true! They are called tractor Nazi's in my group. I ride both sides of that arguement but always try to retain the thought that the OWNER can do what they want. The Cub I have I'm doing a mechanical restoration on to not change what can be seen. The O-4 is the oldest known and 11th made. Anything needing replacement WILL be original materials. NO reproductions. Why? Because it's a low number unit, there was a 2nd production year change/update, and why not build the earliest known tractor with the earliest known original components? If any deserve the "Correct Police, Tractor Nazi" this one deserves it. Plus my family owns it, that alone let's us do what we want with it.
@@stephenstrohacker7863 just to add to the problem, as something gains age or rarity the owner becomes a custodian of an historic artifact and gains obligations to history, or not.
@@littleworkshopofhorrors2395agreed. Which is why I'm doing what I am to both. Key thing here though. The O-4 was missing the tinwork, pan and one piston-rod assembly. Matching missing patina isn't happening. Cub however was complete just stuck. Both dictated their outcome.
Honestly, if this doesn't work I would separate the two castings and replicate the inner portion (the broken part) in bronze using investment casting. I wouldn't use iron because my results in iron have not been good enough, not enough skill in iron.
great one i have faith
It's riveted. Maybe would be better make new part from steel?
Hey Keith have you considered learning how to oxy-acetylene weld cast iron? It's not difficult, and the results would look much nicer on your vintage repairs. It might even work with TIG.
carlsharp909 He prefers to braze. He’s mentioned it in a fair few previous videos that involve cast iron. Personally I quite like the look of the dissimilar metals.
No, with cast iron filler rod. It can make an invisible repair. There are several RUclips videos on the subject
1 view, 0 comments. Thats a first for me
brazed? I hope there's not much of a load on that gear.
TIL what a "hit & miss engine" is. Video I found explaining it: ruclips.net/video/fYKxwno6QUY/видео.html
TL/DW: The engine has a flywheel with a centrifugal mechanism. When the flywheel slows down, the engine fires. Under low load, most strokes will be non-power strokes.
Keith, the color saturation of this video is low.
Everything looks a bit gray. FYI
Maybe to make a new casting would not be that difficult.
For a one off part ,,, probably just as easy to machine the part from steel and bolt it to the gear.
Considering that it was welded before and broke more than once I would say the design is flawed. There is a pretty good chance this will break again. I hate to say this but it would have been better to cut a whole new piece out of steel and rivet that to the gear instead.
Wow I am first
Will this hold? I don't think so, Cut rivets off and make whole new part. Shock Treatment will kill this part!
Looks like back kick prevention. But design of it is quite poor.
Hopeless design, it would be lucky to work for even a hundred years. ;-)
THESE old dogs are getting further and farther in between.
I'm afraid that piece always will be prone to break off due to the poor design. This part should have been made of steel and not cast iron which is way too brisk
Agree. Machined medium carbon steel is the way to go.
Brisk? Like tea or a fall morning?
@@mwilliamshs
Brisk is also descriptive of brittle in Great Britain.
@@stanervin6108 in what way does brisk, an adjective, describe brittle, another adjective?
@@mwilliamshs
OK, grammar police.
Perhaps I should have used 'the linguistical equivalent of' instead of 'descriptive of' .
Didn't mean to confuse a great perfectionist such as yourself with such a triviality and error in word usage. Please accept my most profound apology, O Great Master of all languages and dialects. Have a great National Scrabble Day!
Good grief!!
Brags on his ability to braze but contaminated the puddle with the tungsten multiple times, long arced it the rest of the time then grinds a chamfer on the part it attaches to make his hack repair job work....then talks bad about the last guy's work while he's placing the parts on top of the packing material in the box.
It would have been a much better fix to unbolt the gear from the part and machine a new one.
Keith, this is embarrassing. Have you no pride in the quality of your work?
He doesn't!