Sometime in the way distant future, someone may turn that casting over and marvel at the GREAT repair and say, "I would love to have met the man who repaired this to as good as new."
Hi Keith love seeing this quality of workmanship, where is the son to learn and inherit dads business,my automotive machine shop is still running but not with the type of guarantees I gave. Now at 80 yrs of age I get untold pleasure just watching the procedures, all the best Nev.
Keith, Have you considered pre-heating with a propane torch? With the size of the part, bringing it to ~500f+ with a simple weed burner might give you the results you're after without the O/A bill.
I like to braze cast iron too. I have an old welding book and it shows where to preheat on various shapes. It also shows the order of preheating and brazing a broken spoked wheel or pulley and where to preheat the rim for brazing each spoke.
I really don't think you give yourself enough credit I enjoy your work and I think that was a very good job that's not a patch that's a very good repair
I also really like using an oil based enamel on machinery. I've found that a 100mm (4") foam roller works really well for getting large areas covered quickly, and once you know what you are doing, you can sort of simulate a painted orange peel effect. The other advantage of a single pack enamel is because it takes so long to cure, overcoating windows are really easy to work with, so you can get two coats on over two days. I personally like a thin coat of red oxide primer on my machinery, but as you say Keith, it's all personal preference.
the man talks sense. I can hear my dad saying "big bushy flame" and I think youre spot on about enamel. give it a month and its a nice finish. thanks for a great video again, see you next weekend.
Keith, great repair as usual. Thanks for flashing my back to my days in the US Navy, where we painted everything with either PAINT, ENAMEL, NAVY GRAY, LIGHT or PAINT, ENAMEL, NAVY GRAY, DARK. I guess it was easier for the Bosun to have only two choices. A common saying was, "If it moves, salute it; if not, paint it."
The downside is when you acquire a piece of equipment from the Navy. I have a surplus 1966 Springfield 280 lathe that I'm restoring right now. There are so many layers of gray paint, I think I'm going to lose my mind.
I don't know why but this has got to be my favorite repair and restore job since the Vance. No idea why, this was relatively tame compared to the Vance but it just had a good feel to it. Great job so far!
Keith I know everybody has there own way of doing things and everything worked out for you , but if I would have been installing that plate and couldn't clamp it I would have install one screw, then center punch the other three, having the one screw clamp the plate for me...I'm not knocking your repair job it was a great job , and I just wanted to point out a clamp method on that plate which I'm sure just hadn't entered your mind at the time...you know how it is "everybody is a armchair quarterback"...nice repair two thumbs up !! Great video...!
I would have got the plate to actually sit flat onto the surface, so that it actually did something. In fact, I would have brazed the plate on there as well.
Keith, I have to say that the brush finish that you have shown on your lathes, drill, etc. has looked far superior (at least on the video) to my spray finish on my Southbend Lathe restoration. I think your paint work looks very good. Gary, 76-Year-Old Home-Shop-Machinist in N.W. Arkansas
Hi Keith, I was with you all the way to the dots for holes. I wouldnt bother with threads and bolts. I would have drilled 6 to 8 holes and c/s them and big gas torch to braze the entire under surface of the new plate. Because I can.
The curse of getting old and forgetful, I forgot what I wanted to say! I can say great job. I can't wait until it's together and I can see what the whole machine does
Great video, and very useful info. Thanks. Also, let me thank you for having a very short intro and exit music. Some RUclipsrs try to impress the viewers with their video production skills with minutes wasted on intro and exit footage.
I agree, I have started to hit the progress bar to skip past the intro music for those channels because I am not interested in watching fancy intro graphics and music for 45 seconds and credits roll at the end.
The only time I have used primer is when I couldn’t get all the rust off. Your right brush on paint is fast and easy no clean up fills the pits better as well👍
First Class Job. PS, you are right about no need to prime, only thing is to make sure you clean the casting real good and apply 2 coats of finish, lightly sanding between coats for better adhesion. ‼️👍👍. Vinny 🇺🇸
I have used the rose bud tip on large parts for years. Best tip for large parts. Down side the greater amount of acetylene and oxygen used because of the tip. Good luck too.
Tractor Supply use to sell a hardener to use with enamel paint .. I have used it with paint I painted lathes with and it really makes the paint harden nicely.. You get better gloss and the paint is much harder than without the hardener...I think the brand name is valspar.. Small can with plastic screw on top...Mike in Louisiana
One of the reasons for primer is that paint was very expensive 19th century through early 20th. Primer, not having all of the expensive color, was noticeably cheaper, so it was used as an undercoat. Additionally, back then, shops weren’t air conditioned, because it hadn’t been invented until the 1930’s, or so, and was very expensive. Factories couldn’t condition that much space, and so, leaded primers were used to prevent rusting, and to fill defects. Unless a machine is going to be subjected to heavy moisture, modern enamels are rust preventative enough.
Kieth, that was a stroke of genius to make a pattern and have a casting made! The repair is fantastic. I usually spray paint most everything but unless I put several coats it is nowhere near as durable as a nice thick coat of brushed on enamel. I use enamel formulated for painting tractors, mainly because it will stick to dirt, oil, or other contaminates. After all when did some farmer ever clean his equipment to a spotless condition before painting it?
Very nice 👍 as always. What about the coplanarity of the feet to the circular surface? Perhaps it was checked and not covered on video, or the rest of the contraption allow you to compensate for that? Looking forward to seeing how it awl comes together
It was an assumption on my part that it would be desirable to have the feet bottoms be coplanar with the circular feature upper surface. Essentially, if they were coplanar, then when the feet rest on a level surface, the upper circular surfaces would be level as well.
The only thing I would have done different is machined a flat surface for the metal patch to lay flat on. If you look at the video, you will see that patch plate isn't laying flat. Could cause issues with it sitting high on one side. Other then that, looks nice. Will the newly brazed part be able to hold as much force as the original casting?
I saw that too. No need to machine it, the grinder would have been fine to knock the braze down just a bit. In the big picture, it won't make a difference.
Machine the mating surface flat, the clamping forces will be spread equally across the repair area, and the repair will be that much stronger. If it's worth doing......
Looks like a good functional repair to me. You spent more time smoothing it down than I might have given what it was for, but might as well make it look as good as possible. I definitely agree on the brush vs sprayer. If it's strictly a functional part, I'd use a brush every time (a disposable one). It makes sense not needing the primer as well. This is not a surface that's going to get a lot of direct wear and no primer makes for easier touch ups down the road if needed. plus it's less to clean up and less time waiting for paint to dry. I'm sure not arguing with somebody with the years of experience you have with this. Right way or not, the way that gets the job done and works is often the best way.
Lord fusor makes 2 part bonding adhesives that I use in addition to mechanical fasteners in regards to that Tom Lipton piece. The adhesive also serves to make up for any surface irregularities. I think it's like 1500 lbs psi holding power. That plus the braze... nothing too strong ever broke
Thanks Keith. Timely video for me. Im in the process of putting a Hardinge TM UM Mill together and have been looking for the best way to paint the mill and I think I am going to follow your preference of SW Enamel without primer. Great job thanks again.
Great job, I like the plate, looks like it would work like a shock absorber for the cast iron. Lots of people will tell you what you did wrong, but most would never try to repair something back to usable condition. You are going to be getting jobs done and they're just complaining.
The added plate was not necessary and kinda hokey looking- all the force on that piece is going to be vertical load, so the only chance of breaking would be from the weight of the center section loading down. The simplest solution to that would have been a pad attached along the braze line and machined flat with the other bottom pads. Would not be visible and would give support to the braze line.
nice job keith ! i have been waiting for this vid for ages i was wondering how you would get over the missing piece . i have an old archdale drill that needs repairs of this nature . i would have peened the weld/braze as a little bit of a stress relief tactic and probably used a cutting torch for the weld/braze well we call it bronze welding here , brazing tends to refer to sweating a joint with brass , but we get the drifft of it all . cheers .
Sherwin Williams has about the best DTM (direct to metal) out there, only issue I have seen is flashing and losing its gloss on a single coat. Really good adhesion properties.
I just used their Sher-Kem DTM to repaint two Snap-On boxes. Surprised how easy it was to get a nice finish, even with a $15 “disposable” Harbor Freight gravity feed HVLP spray gun. Time will tell how it holds up.
I actually heard you slip up & use the phrase "ya'll" like a true southern!!! Good for you boy!! I hate to see southern folk on RUclips that have been "yakee-mo-tized" into using the phase "you guys." Here in the south we have girls & gals (they are very beautiful) & they are NOT guys!!!
Nice work on the brazed joint. I do not understand the sense of the small screws and the plate as a gusset at the bottom though. I would expect a brazed on gusset would give way more strength compared to the small screws. Do you have special reasons for the screws? Just to help me understand what type of goal should be achieved.
Why drill and tap ? If I needed more strength, I would have brazed the plate too ! I've done it on tractor bell housings . No expansion or contraction problems !
Sometime in the way distant future, someone may turn that casting over and marvel at the GREAT repair and say, "I would love to have met the man who repaired this to as good as new."
Awesome repair Keith, a job to be proud of. Looks like it never was repaired.
Hi Keith love seeing this quality of workmanship, where is the son to learn and inherit dads business,my automotive machine shop is still running but not with the type of guarantees I gave. Now at 80 yrs of age I get untold pleasure just watching the procedures, all the best Nev.
Keith, Have you considered pre-heating with a propane torch? With the size of the part, bringing it to ~500f+ with a simple weed burner might give you the results you're after without the O/A bill.
Like your way of dealing with the disagreements before they happen... Polite but to the point. With you on brazing.... There's something satisfying
I like to braze cast iron too. I have an old welding book and it shows where to preheat on various shapes.
It also shows the order of preheating and brazing a broken spoked wheel or pulley and where to preheat the rim for brazing each spoke.
I really don't think you give yourself enough credit I enjoy your work and I think that was a very good job that's not a patch that's a very good repair
Best part of brushing is no darned over spray!
No over spray and for something that small it just isn't worth it to get out the spray rig when all you need is a brush.
Looks really good Keith!
This was a great series to watch and the results are stunning. Great work, as always!
Anything other than oil based enamel and I feel like I'm painting with house paint. Nice job as usual.
How's paint
How's it sticking?
Masterful work as always.
I also really like using an oil based enamel on machinery. I've found that a 100mm (4") foam roller works really well for getting large areas covered quickly, and once you know what you are doing, you can sort of simulate a painted orange peel effect.
The other advantage of a single pack enamel is because it takes so long to cure, overcoating windows are really easy to work with, so you can get two coats on over two days.
I personally like a thin coat of red oxide primer on my machinery, but as you say Keith, it's all personal preference.
GREAT repair job. I've never seen a brazed joint that big! Def well done!
Spectacular repair.
Your brazing is always first class. Great repair.
We "thumb'ed" up as many times as we could!!
What an awesome job!
I seem to remember the Lipton name in the ABANA circle. Very well thought of person, if it is the same person!
Excellent project!
Great job Keith thanks for sharing 👍🇦🇺
great repair
Rose bud did fine job I used a cutting torch other day to braze hyd. line on tractor use what you got.
the man talks sense. I can hear my dad saying "big bushy flame" and I think youre spot on about enamel. give it a month and its a nice finish. thanks for a great video again, see you next weekend.
Keith, great repair as usual. Thanks for flashing my back to my days in the US Navy, where we painted everything with either PAINT, ENAMEL, NAVY GRAY, LIGHT or PAINT, ENAMEL, NAVY GRAY, DARK. I guess it was easier for the Bosun to have only two choices. A common saying was, "If it moves, salute it; if not, paint it."
Air Force added a stage, If it moves salute it, if it does not move pick it up, if you can not pick it up paint it.
The downside is when you acquire a piece of equipment from the Navy. I have a surplus 1966 Springfield 280 lathe that I'm restoring right now. There are so many layers of gray paint, I think I'm going to lose my mind.
I never thought of a mechanical reinforcement of a braze or weld. Terrific.
Perfectly fit for purpose.
Texaco used to hand paint their petrol tankers years ago
I don't know why but this has got to be my favorite repair and restore job since the Vance. No idea why, this was relatively tame compared to the Vance but it just had a good feel to it. Great job so far!
Love your reinforcement plate idea...I am brushing paint on my logan lathe also...no overspray to worry about in my garage
Keith I know everybody has there own way of doing things and everything worked out for you , but if I would have been installing that plate and couldn't clamp it I would have install one screw, then center punch the other three, having the one screw clamp the plate for me...I'm not knocking your repair job it was a great job , and I just wanted to point out a clamp method on that plate which I'm sure just hadn't entered your mind at the time...you know how it is "everybody is a armchair quarterback"...nice repair two thumbs up !! Great video...!
I would have use 3/8 or 5/16, since the screws will take the force from the 1/4 plate
I would have got the plate to actually sit flat onto the surface, so that it actually did something.
In fact, I would have brazed the plate on there as well.
Keith,
I have to say that the brush finish that you have shown on your lathes, drill, etc. has looked far superior (at least on the video) to my spray finish on my Southbend Lathe restoration. I think your paint work looks very good.
Gary, 76-Year-Old Home-Shop-Machinist in N.W. Arkansas
Hi Keith, I was with you all the way to the dots for holes.
I wouldnt bother with threads and bolts.
I would have drilled 6 to 8 holes and c/s them and big gas torch to braze the entire under surface of the new plate.
Because I can.
Great Job Keith I really wanted to see this finished just to see what's possible with a cast iron repair.
The curse of getting old and forgetful, I forgot what I wanted to say! I can say great job. I can't wait until it's together and I can see what the whole machine does
Nice video series
Great video, and very useful info. Thanks. Also, let me thank you for having a very short intro and exit music. Some RUclipsrs try to impress the viewers with their video production skills with minutes wasted on intro and exit footage.
I agree, I have started to hit the progress bar to skip past the intro music for those channels because I am not interested in watching fancy intro graphics and music for 45 seconds and credits roll at the end.
The only time I have used primer is when I couldn’t get all the rust off. Your right brush on paint is fast and easy no clean up fills the pits better as well👍
First Class Job. PS, you are right about no need to prime, only thing is to make sure you clean the casting real good and apply 2 coats of finish, lightly sanding between coats for better adhesion. ‼️👍👍. Vinny 🇺🇸
I have used the rose bud tip on large parts for years. Best tip for large parts. Down side the greater amount of acetylene and oxygen used because of the tip. Good luck too.
when are going to get band saw? an old one would be nice to rebuild. thanks for show. love it
That was a fantastic repair.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Very nice repair as always.
Tractor Supply use to sell a hardener to use with enamel paint .. I have used it with paint I painted lathes with and it really makes the paint harden nicely.. You get better gloss and the paint is much harder than without the hardener...I think the brand name is valspar.. Small can with plastic screw on top...Mike in Louisiana
Nice repair Keith. Great video. 👍
Very good job, excellent job brazing
One of the reasons for primer is that paint was very expensive 19th century through early 20th. Primer, not having all of the expensive color, was noticeably cheaper, so it was used as an undercoat. Additionally, back then, shops weren’t air conditioned, because it hadn’t been invented until the 1930’s, or so, and was very expensive. Factories couldn’t condition that much space, and so, leaded primers were used to prevent rusting, and to fill defects.
Unless a machine is going to be subjected to heavy moisture, modern enamels are rust preventative enough.
Beautiful job Keith
Nice job Keith 😊👍
Very nice work! Thank you sir :-)
Braze in the plate for consistent repair technology across the repair? maybe? Beautiful job
Very good TY Kieth.
Enjoyed the video Keith, even the drillpress gray color. Thanks for sharing.
Top job Keith, you are a clever boy.👍🇦🇺 Now we just have to learn how to change tyres/tires.😁
Wonderful fix. Keep up the good work!
Happy Father's Day Kieth.
Yeah, you’ve got to look, look hard, but you can see it. Maybe. Great job.
Nice job Keith. Top man!
Kieth, that was a stroke of genius to make a pattern and have a casting made! The repair is fantastic. I usually spray paint most everything but unless I put several coats it is nowhere near as durable as a nice thick coat of brushed on enamel. I use enamel formulated for painting tractors, mainly because it will stick to dirt, oil, or other contaminates. After all when did some farmer ever clean his equipment to a spotless condition before painting it?
Very nice 👍 as always. What about the coplanarity of the feet to the circular surface? Perhaps it was checked and not covered on video, or the rest of the contraption allow you to compensate for that? Looking forward to seeing how it awl comes together
This belongs to a universal table for a large radial drill. Before using the drill, the table will be trammed in.
It was an assumption on my part that it would be desirable to have the feet bottoms be coplanar with the circular feature upper surface. Essentially, if they were coplanar, then when the feet rest on a level surface, the upper circular surfaces would be level as well.
The only thing I would have done different is machined a flat surface for the metal patch to lay flat on. If you look at the video, you will see that patch plate isn't laying flat. Could cause issues with it sitting high on one side. Other then that, looks nice. Will the newly brazed part be able to hold as much force as the original casting?
I saw that too. No need to machine it, the grinder would have been fine to knock the braze down just a bit. In the big picture, it won't make a difference.
Machine the mating surface flat, the clamping forces will be spread equally across the repair area, and the repair will be that much stronger. If it's worth doing......
Looks like a good functional repair to me. You spent more time smoothing it down than I might have given what it was for, but might as well make it look as good as possible. I definitely agree on the brush vs sprayer. If it's strictly a functional part, I'd use a brush every time (a disposable one). It makes sense not needing the primer as well. This is not a surface that's going to get a lot of direct wear and no primer makes for easier touch ups down the road if needed. plus it's less to clean up and less time waiting for paint to dry. I'm sure not arguing with somebody with the years of experience you have with this. Right way or not, the way that gets the job done and works is often the best way.
Pro work, thank for sharing
Thanks Keith for sharing good content keep up the videos. Job well done 👍 👍👍
Nice!! Great job and video series... :-)
Nice repair. If it wasn't for that bit of brass on the machined face there, you'd never know it had been fixed.
Lord fusor makes 2 part bonding adhesives that I use in addition to mechanical fasteners in regards to that Tom Lipton piece. The adhesive also serves to make up for any surface irregularities. I think it's like 1500 lbs psi holding power. That plus the braze... nothing too strong ever broke
Thanks Keith. Timely video for me. Im in the process of putting a Hardinge TM UM Mill together and have been looking for the best way to paint the mill and I think I am going to follow your preference of SW Enamel without primer. Great job thanks again.
Nice Work turned out great.
Great job!
Great job, I like the plate, looks like it would work like a shock absorber for the cast iron. Lots of people will tell you what you did wrong, but most would never try to repair something back to usable condition. You are going to be getting jobs done and they're just complaining.
The added plate was not necessary and kinda hokey looking- all the force on that piece is going to be vertical load, so the only chance of breaking would be from the weight of the center section loading down. The simplest solution to that would have been a pad attached along the braze line and machined flat with the other bottom pads. Would not be visible and would give support to the braze line.
Outstanding!
Excellent work done,
Nice job!
Thanks for the video.
looking great! thanks for sharing!
nice job keith ! i have been waiting for this vid for ages i was wondering how you would get over the missing piece . i have an old archdale drill that needs repairs of this nature . i would have peened the weld/braze as a little bit of a stress relief tactic and probably used a cutting torch for the weld/braze well we call it bronze welding here , brazing tends to refer to sweating a joint with brass , but we get the drifft of it all . cheers .
Very nice repair, saving a valuable piece of equipment. Thanks for the share. Philip Ballman
Grate video, and it looks grate. Keep up the good work and video coming. I always learn a lot from your videos.
It wasn't a GRATE. It was a base PLATE.
...The Correct Way is WHATEVER WAY YOU GET IT TO WORK. :)
Great job, thank you.
Great repair really it is . Well thought out . But you already know that.
My Best Tighe
For sure I expected you to braise the plate as well!
I was hoping that Keith would braze the bottom side. Oh well, it will probably last 100 years or more as it is.
@chris0tube Do you not understand sarcastic humor?
@chris0tube Are you a Vulcan?
I always wondered how much weight a Bridgeport table could support.
That paint laid on that nice a brush was the way to go.
Great video! Is there a possibility that you do a shop tour of your facility for us newer viewers?
Well done and thanks
I love your videos, look forward to every one of them. Keep up the awesome work!
Looks great.
Looking good 👍
Looks nice!
Enjoyed! Thanks!
Sherwin Williams has about the best DTM (direct to metal) out there, only issue I have seen is flashing and losing its gloss on a single coat. Really good adhesion properties.
I just used their Sher-Kem DTM to repaint two Snap-On boxes. Surprised how easy it was to get a nice finish, even with a $15 “disposable” Harbor Freight gravity feed HVLP spray gun. Time will tell how it holds up.
Uno aprende mucho viendo tus videos.
Muchas gracias !!!!!
I actually heard you slip up & use the phrase "ya'll" like a true southern!!! Good for you boy!! I hate to see southern folk on RUclips that have been "yakee-mo-tized" into using the phase "you guys." Here in the south we have girls & gals (they are very beautiful) & they are NOT guys!!!
Awesome job, I see your not afraid to show a skinned knuckle on your project
Exactly, Keith, you need the heat and the rosebud is the only way...
Thanks for the video. Could have lugged that plate over to the radial drill press.
19:00 ...and now I'm suddenly having a Tom Sawyer moment: "Oooh, may I...? May I...? Can you let me please...?"
Nice work on the brazed joint.
I do not understand the sense of the small screws and the plate as a gusset at the bottom though. I would expect a brazed on gusset would give way more strength compared to the small screws. Do you have special reasons for the screws? Just to help me understand what type of goal should be achieved.
Why drill and tap ? If I needed more strength, I would have brazed the plate too ! I've done it on tractor bell housings . No expansion or contraction problems !
chris0tube hi Chris, but it will stop the bit getting lost if,god forbid, the joint should break again.😢
Furthermore, the plate didn't even sit flat onto the surface. Look at 10:48 - totally and utterly useless!