I was really excited about this project, but what a disappointment. 3 years and only 2 videos. Go ahead and keep crying about why the channel is going bad. See you in the next video around 2027.
You also might want to put a passive heatsink or some kind of active cooling on the LED board. I have a feeling the LEDs may have a somewhat short lifespan depending on how hard you are driving them. Of course, I could be wrong. I don't know for certain. Very neat project though.
Very good project, be careful stepper current won't make it hot enough to deform the PLA. You might also want a fan blowing across or under the LED's I see an opening in the case already, heat will degrade the LCD along with the UV, but even faster. UV might also quickly degrade the interior PLA, makes it brittle and crumbles. For keeping you project going, just solder mod wires from the incorrect input-only pins, to the output pins needed. Consider trying to switch to a mono-display or also supporting one as an option, I understand finding a common module is more practical here, but could make it a fairly competitive project as mono-displays have exposure-time advantages.
@04:10 Can't say I'm super sold on _that_ way of mounting the LCD... Here's to hoping this is only meant to be a prototype mounting solution in case something breaks... For a permanent / final solution I'd be expecting something more akin to a frame supporting the LCD all around instead of just the corners thus better distributing the load coming from the liquid trapped between the Build Platform and the FEP creating a bulge during the early stages 🤔
from experience making my own MSLA, the VAT is the biggest hurdle, PLA and ABS just won't work, they will for a print or two but with quickly degrade and cause leaks, the solution that worked for me long term was printing them with Taulman3d 910 and or 645 nylon filaments. It's the only thing that worked long-term.
Nice! I would maybe add a layer of some light dispersing material between the LEDs and the screen, so that the light that gets to the screen is more uniform and less dotted.
@@ELECTRONOOBS I don't think so. You use Fresnel lens mainly when you have a small source compared to where you want the light to hit. I don't know exactly how this printers work, but I would use a diffusing lens or maybe a collimator
Wouldn't it be better to use a Monochrome Display? Now you loose the Red and Green channel and I assume the light from the LED can only pass the Blue color channel? With the RGB-Display you would not illuminate the whole surface, only the spots where the blue light is transmitted? I am I missing something, or were you able to remove the RGB-filer (bayer filter) or is the UV light anyway blocked and transmitted (depending on the state of each pixel) by all RGB-pixels? Still a very cool Project!
I can't believe another episode's out! I remember checking back every few weeks after I saw the first arduino msla video, hoping for a new part. Great video as always!
I went back and watched the first vid again, I really like that you have a method of doing this using Arduino. I recently started trying to ressurect my broken Gen 1 AC Photon and the only common option is using NanoDLP. It is powerful software but the documentation is not great, and it is certaintly aimed more at running a machine over a network. I would prefer something that used electronics and software you would find for FDM printers and I am fine with plugging a usb or SD card into it to use it (although network/tether control is good too) Sending the images to a display adapter that can output hdmi or dvi would open up the possibility to use old monitors for MLSA machines and modded DLP projectors. Great work anyway, keep it going!
I've been thinking of doing the same thing! even bought some tft displays where I took one apart but never got around to test it, love to see someone else is going at it
You will need lens to focus the UV. I've used 60deg lens with reflective cones on my build couple years ago. Aligning led matrix in hexagonal pattern can get on more even setting of the resin. btw, driving all staff on a raspberry pi with octoprint is more reasonable imo. in my project, i switched off some led selectively in shadow area, can be done on python script in few lines of code.
I'm enjoying seeing an approach to how to make one of these printers. I'm probably going to stick with my prusa mini printer. But I still enjoy watching your approach to making a 3D printer. I enjoy the opportunity to learn more electronics. It is definitely a complex project. I like the fact you used an ESP32 (my preferred board these days versus an Arduino unless I'm rebuilding someone else's project where they used Arduino). Thank you for taking the time to create this content Andrei.
Amazing to watch! But I have no desire to repeat it :) Sorry! For me the resin 3d printing has few "no-no" moments which are not currently resolved. Your efforts about making this project are great and deserves respect with no doubts! But generally we have a bunch of very affordable MSLA printers on the market now... It would be cool if you could develope an affordable DIY analog polyphonic synthesizer with all bells and whistles (which are usually nobody wants to release because of the marketing plan).
I have two poly synths but no one of them has all necessary features. Only one really good synth exists that beat almost all kinds of needs for any musician: MFB Synth Pro. Unfortunatelly the creator did passed away few years ago. And the manufacturing was stopped. It is a very compact and awesome sounding synth. It has the impressive list of features which are impossible to see together in any of the existing poly-synths in the World. It's pretty compact size makes it even more desireable to me. Every time I think about MFB Synth Pro, I has a hard FOMO which bothers me about two years already :( My knowledges are limited only to create an analog mono-synth. Also I'm a kind of familiar to create a good VST poly-synth. I've made few plugins (use one of them sometimes) and I know the nuances about the sound programming design in general. That's why I'm "hunting" for a good _analog_ polysynth. Probably you'll think that I'm obsessive about this... Because I write some music since 1998 and my biggest passion is the sound synthesis and sound effects. Not "just to have it" but to use of course! :)
looks good. May I recommend a reflective "cone" for the UV LEDs to help focus the light and prevent UV bleed. PLA parts are not UV stable. Great video. Keep up the good work.
It looks promising! You probably planned it in future, but i think it's a good idea to add some diffusing material between leds and screen to make the uv light more even
Very cool. For the SD card , use anextender or extension ribbon . I use them with my printers . Seem many printers have poor SD locations , or poor alignment of the sd socket and the hole in the printer body. the one i use is micro sd to micro SD and is 9 inches long . I sticky foam mount the card end in a easier place to get at .
If I were you, I would change the PCB completely,so that it would screw directly on the stepper, as the enclosure so 4 long screws would hold almost everything together, after the film would be fixed to the top plate and a pump just under the top plate so that it would move resin from and to a reservoir. The WiFi is great! I guess another iteration on this and would be good
I hope all the small controller component boards are supported in the chassy properly instead of just balancing themselves on the board connector and connecting pins and for the memory card you can add some extension wires from the motherboard to the memory card dotterboard after you have figured out the final placement and you might want to print some mini-finger tip style tweezers that are like oven mittens in shape to pull out & then insert the memory card on to the printer.
I thing for the UV lights you should use some sort of diffuser to make the lights more even. Maybe the original diffuser from the TFT display will work just fine
that's such a really good budget project for D.I.Y and i think you can test it on printing PCBs with photo resistor method until you get rest of parts in hand to complete it maybe i thing you should consider is the tft screen resolution could yield some failures in prints
Very cool project. It's complex, but not difficult for those who have at least some experience in arduino DIY. But I worry about contrast of the display. LEDs are still visible through black regions. It needs some efforts to play with brightness and exposition time.
Another great video! It looks like a fantastic idea to build your own diy printer. I would suggest just using a SD extension cable to bring it out front. Save on try to change the circuit board.
hi, consider to use the newer version of the esp, The ESP32-S3 has more pins to use and no restriction pins to use them only as inputs. it is what Espressif recomend to use for new projects (has longer productivity experation date) nice project!!
Highly agree with this. It perfect for any project and I use it on everything, although I am an electronic engineer and use the chip rather than the module but I’m sure the modules out there would be fine
Nice project, but printing the box in pla is not a good idea, pla gets britle when in direct sunlight because of the uv light, maybe petg is a better choice
You sir just got a new subscriber :) I was planning on doing something similar in almost identical fashion by disassembling a LCD module and designing my own PCBs for the matrix and SoC, also planning to mill them on my CNC to reduce overall cost (I've already succeeded with milling traces for really small 0603 SMD components). The heart of my project gonna be ESP32-S3-WROOM-1 so maybe I could use its BT capability later on. Haven't decided yet on the screen size tho but I've already ordered a bag of 0805 UV LEDs for the compact matrix so the entire thing can run on 5V. Can't wait how your project will come out and I'm looking forward into the next video!
This is an incredible project!! though, couldn't you break the trace for now and handwire the stepper motor to make sure it works before ordering a new board?
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Have you made part 2
I was really excited about this project, but what a disappointment. 3 years and only 2 videos. Go ahead and keep crying about why the channel is going bad. See you in the next video around 2027.
I love this project! It's amazing that you're thinking of disassembling a TFT display. I got a lot of inspiration from this video.
Please continue this project....Awesome work by the way.
You also might want to put a passive heatsink or some kind of active cooling on the LED board. I have a feeling the LEDs may have a somewhat short lifespan depending on how hard you are driving them. Of course, I could be wrong. I don't know for certain. Very neat project though.
Just switch the PCB base material from FR-4 to aluminum
Very good project, be careful stepper current won't make it hot enough to deform the PLA.
You might also want a fan blowing across or under the LED's I see an opening in the case already, heat will degrade the LCD along with the UV, but even faster. UV might also quickly degrade the interior PLA, makes it brittle and crumbles.
For keeping you project going, just solder mod wires from the incorrect input-only pins, to the output pins needed.
Consider trying to switch to a mono-display or also supporting one as an option, I understand finding a common module is more practical here, but could make it a fairly competitive project as mono-displays have exposure-time advantages.
Looks great. Those LEDs might need some kind of diffusion though for more consistent lighting of the layers via the screen.
I think that a fresnel lens need to be added to direct uv light to lcd perpendicularly
@04:10 Can't say I'm super sold on _that_ way of mounting the LCD... Here's to hoping this is only meant to be a prototype mounting solution in case something breaks... For a permanent / final solution I'd be expecting something more akin to a frame supporting the LCD all around instead of just the corners thus better distributing the load coming from the liquid trapped between the Build Platform and the FEP creating a bulge during the early stages 🤔
It's a very nice project, but it's also a difficult project for amateurs. I just watched with envy
from experience making my own MSLA, the VAT is the biggest hurdle, PLA and ABS just won't work, they will for a print or two but with quickly degrade and cause leaks, the solution that worked for me long term was printing them with Taulman3d 910 and or 645 nylon filaments. It's the only thing that worked long-term.
Nice! I would maybe add a layer of some light dispersing material between the LEDs and the screen, so that the light that gets to the screen is more uniform and less dotted.
Fresnel lens maybe?
@@ELECTRONOOBS I don't think so. You use Fresnel lens mainly when you have a small source compared to where you want the light to hit. I don't know exactly how this printers work, but I would use a diffusing lens or maybe a collimator
@@ELECTRONOOBS Perhaps you can start by testing those sheets that you removed from the original display. They are there (partly) for that reason.
This was a promising project. Any update on this?
Wouldn't it be better to use a Monochrome Display? Now you loose the Red and Green channel and I assume the light from the LED can only pass the Blue color channel? With the RGB-Display you would not illuminate the whole surface, only the spots where the blue light is transmitted? I am I missing something, or were you able to remove the RGB-filer (bayer filter) or is the UV light anyway blocked and transmitted (depending on the state of each pixel) by all RGB-pixels?
Still a very cool Project!
I can't believe another episode's out! I remember checking back every few weeks after I saw the first arduino msla video, hoping for a new part. Great video as always!
I went back and watched the first vid again, I really like that you have a method of doing this using Arduino. I recently started trying to ressurect my broken Gen 1 AC Photon and the only common option is using NanoDLP. It is powerful software but the documentation is not great, and it is certaintly aimed more at running a machine over a network. I would prefer something that used electronics and software you would find for FDM printers and I am fine with plugging a usb or SD card into it to use it (although network/tether control is good too) Sending the images to a display adapter that can output hdmi or dvi would open up the possibility to use old monitors for MLSA machines and modded DLP projectors. Great work anyway, keep it going!
I've been thinking of doing the same thing!
even bought some tft displays where I took one apart but never got around to test it, love to see someone else is going at it
wow what a beutifull project. i love seeing those smal sla printers. keep the work up man! love your videos. greetings from the netherlands
Wow that’s a very complex project that you’ve put a lot of work into. Looking forward to seeing the final prototype. Great work👌
You will need lens to focus the UV. I've used 60deg lens with reflective cones on my build couple years ago. Aligning led matrix in hexagonal pattern can get on more even setting of the resin. btw, driving all staff on a raspberry pi with octoprint is more reasonable imo. in my project, i switched off some led selectively in shadow area, can be done on python script in few lines of code.
Awesome project, brings a whole new meaning to "I built a 3D printer"
Parabéns pelo ótimo projeto em curso, ansioso pela continuidade.
I'm enjoying seeing an approach to how to make one of these printers. I'm probably going to stick with my prusa mini printer. But I still enjoy watching your approach to making a 3D printer. I enjoy the opportunity to learn more electronics. It is definitely a complex project. I like the fact you used an ESP32 (my preferred board these days versus an Arduino unless I'm rebuilding someone else's project where they used Arduino). Thank you for taking the time to create this content Andrei.
Amazing to watch! But I have no desire to repeat it :) Sorry! For me the resin 3d printing has few "no-no" moments which are not currently resolved.
Your efforts about making this project are great and deserves respect with no doubts! But generally we have a bunch of very affordable MSLA printers on the market now... It would be cool if you could develope an affordable DIY analog polyphonic synthesizer with all bells and whistles (which are usually nobody wants to release because of the marketing plan).
I have two poly synths but no one of them has all necessary features. Only one really good synth exists that beat almost all kinds of needs for any musician: MFB Synth Pro. Unfortunatelly the creator did passed away few years ago. And the manufacturing was stopped. It is a very compact and awesome sounding synth. It has the impressive list of features which are impossible to see together in any of the existing poly-synths in the World. It's pretty compact size makes it even more desireable to me.
Every time I think about MFB Synth Pro, I has a hard FOMO which bothers me about two years already :(
My knowledges are limited only to create an analog mono-synth. Also I'm a kind of familiar to create a good VST poly-synth. I've made few plugins (use one of them sometimes) and I know the nuances about the sound programming design in general. That's why I'm "hunting" for a good _analog_ polysynth. Probably you'll think that I'm obsessive about this... Because I write some music since 1998 and my biggest passion is the sound synthesis and sound effects. Not "just to have it" but to use of course! :)
looks good. May I recommend a reflective "cone" for the UV LEDs to help focus the light and prevent UV bleed. PLA parts are not UV stable.
Great video. Keep up the good work.
Ty for sharing the bumps you experience along the way.
It looks promising! You probably planned it in future, but i think it's a good idea to add some diffusing material between leds and screen to make the uv light more even
same
What a fantastic project. Can't wait for part 2
Been waiting a long time for this video. Looking forward to the end result.
Very cool. For the SD card , use anextender or extension ribbon . I use them with my printers . Seem many printers have poor SD locations , or poor alignment of the sd socket and the hole in the printer body. the one i use is micro sd to micro SD and is 9 inches long . I sticky foam mount the card end in a easier place to get at .
Je suis impatient de voir le résultat final !
If I were you, I would change the PCB completely,so that it would screw directly on the stepper, as the enclosure so 4 long screws would hold almost everything together, after the film would be fixed to the top plate and a pump just under the top plate so that it would move resin from and to a reservoir.
The WiFi is great!
I guess another iteration on this and would be good
I cannot wait to see the end result. I am really curious if it will be able to compete with commercial resin printers. Keep up the great work!
Awesome project and build. Looking forward to its first test print
I'm excited for the final project and the test. Keep it going 💯
I hope all the small controller component boards are supported in the chassy properly instead of just balancing themselves on the board connector and connecting pins and for the memory card you can add some extension wires from the motherboard to the memory card dotterboard after you have figured out the final placement and you might want to print some mini-finger tip style tweezers that are like oven mittens in shape to pull out & then insert the memory card on to the printer.
Looks really promising.
Nice project, looking forward to the conclusion
это определенно очень достойный проект, жду продолжения с нетерпением! Удачи !!
you could 3d print a knob and put it on top lead screw and twist it . To test if each layer get solidified properly.
I thing for the UV lights you should use some sort of diffuser to make the lights more even. Maybe the original diffuser from the TFT display will work just fine
nice to see someone working on decent projects
one of the best project such as esc.
need to more 101 tutorials !
that's such a really good budget project for D.I.Y and i think you can test it on printing PCBs with photo resistor method until you get rest of parts in hand to complete it
maybe i thing you should consider is the tft screen resolution could yield some failures in prints
Very cool project. It's complex, but not difficult for those who have at least some experience in arduino DIY. But I worry about contrast of the display. LEDs are still visible through black regions. It needs some efforts to play with brightness and exposition time.
This is very cool, we need more options with resin printers being open source.
You will need a lense or something to get a more flat light. The points light sources will get on even setting of the resin.
Yooo finally i thought you forgot about that project or it failed
This is excellent project, can't wait for next video 😊
Another great video! It looks like a fantastic idea to build your own diy printer. I would suggest just using a SD extension cable to bring it out front. Save on try to change the circuit board.
super cool my dude! also cool hand tats.
Can’t wait for the next video 😍 I was waiting since the first msla video 🤪
Woww this is amazing project dude even that is has errors doesn’t matter that much compared to all that work
This is perfect and awesome and I want one. Love this.
Very bold and interesting project. Wishing you success.
hi, consider to use the newer version of the esp, The ESP32-S3 has more pins to use and no restriction pins to use them only as inputs. it is what Espressif recomend to use for new projects (has longer productivity experation date)
nice project!!
Highly agree with this. It perfect for any project and I use it on everything, although I am an electronic engineer and use the chip rather than the module but I’m sure the modules out there would be fine
Eu amo seu trabalho, parabéns pelo compartilhamento dos seus projetos mesmo quando não são perfeitos
Waiting for your next video about this.
Also can you make a 3d printed emergency handcrank power supply for charging or lighting.
Just amazing! 😮 Can‘t wait to see the next part!
Look at the Prometheus MSLA machine :D ! Its the first fully open msla printer. The motherboard is based on klipper :o
Hello, thank-you for yours videos. This project look promising.
would love a follow-up on this project, or a tutorial/BOM
so where's the rest of it
Nice project, but printing the box in pla is not a good idea, pla gets britle when in direct sunlight because of the uv light, maybe petg is a better choice
You sir just got a new subscriber :) I was planning on doing something similar in almost identical fashion by disassembling a LCD module and designing my own PCBs for the matrix and SoC, also planning to mill them on my CNC to reduce overall cost (I've already succeeded with milling traces for really small 0603 SMD components). The heart of my project gonna be ESP32-S3-WROOM-1 so maybe I could use its BT capability later on. Haven't decided yet on the screen size tho but I've already ordered a bag of 0805 UV LEDs for the compact matrix so the entire thing can run on 5V.
Can't wait how your project will come out and I'm looking forward into the next video!
This is an incredible project!! though, couldn't you break the trace for now and handwire the stepper motor to make sure it works before ordering a new board?
So? what happened? did you finish it?
Great project, congrats, keeep on!
Do you have any idea when the tutorial will be ready?? I am really looking forward to building this one
I think a little tweaking of this project would turn into a great tool for making pcbs using the photosensitive ink method...
amazing project, thanks for the update!
this looks really cool!
Im alwaus impressed qith your videos but this one is crazy. I hope you do well my friend
Very nice and so inspiring! 👍
Nice, you can improve it by adding a UV diffusing sheet and using 2 liquid crystal sheets instead one to prevent light leakage.
This is wild. We can make it bigger!
Hey! Where is the test? How do we know its working? We would love to know how accurate and also which materials can print.
great project
You should consider using the esp32-S3! It has a similar pin layout and less input only pins!
Could you get a larger screen module off a laptop or monitor to do the same thing?
Why is it 10 months old and why I didn't know of it earlier? Is there any follow up?
Very good Project!! Where can you download the PCB Gerber file? As shown here from minute 2:33? I can't find this on the homepage. Thanks!
Wow, that's look so good
very dope project man
Very preliminary comment. Is the extinction ratio for the UV light enough?
You can see the LED's even through the areas where the display is dark.
can it be supersized ? I want to print a widebody kit for a car plus a drone fleet .
When will the tutorial be ready?
This project was amazing, why you never post the second part? 😢
Nice project!
I'd have refrigeration into account. (Fans, heatsink, etc) I'm afraid there will be problems due to overheating
love the idea - will be interested to see the results. how are you planning to keep the vat secured?
looks cool but you might want to add a diffuser to your led's
You might want to add diffuser for leds.
I wanna make an uv exposure with a lcd mask. Whats the most simple way?
muchisimos gracias
I dont have a good place to operate a SLA printer, but thats cool.
Nice project, are there generic vats that you can use for resin? Using a generic can save some time. Good job so far.
that's impressive. 👏
I am not sure, but probably you need to have diffuser in between leds and your screen.
Good job man
very nice! good job
is printing?:) i working on the same project