Thanks to the installer who faced the access towards the home. They could have turned it another 90° and made life so much easier for technicians to work on it
I am a new tech in The Bahamas and I am very impressed and inspired by your standard of work and depth of knowledge...I hope to communicate more direct with you...continue the awesome work!!
I am a retired 69 yo HVAC contractor, licensed here in Texas, still working. I enjoy watching technician and i like your professionalism and the care you take to do things right. Thumbs up! No doubts, i only have my right arm, but i am able to change motors, capasitor, etc. Congratulation on this great video.
I have a question if you don’t mind to answer. My condensation drain line ends right outside my house. Literally at the end of the house foundation. There is a 6 inch cemet cut out that it drains into. The rest of the area is a very large concrete patio and pool area. Sometimes the water overflows and it covers the condensation line. I recently upgraded my entire unit with a Trane xr14 system. Is that going to be a problem in the future?
@@sergioorozco9044 well your condensate line should be flowing downhill so theoretically no. But maybe you could create a French drain or something like that to help drain the water.
Good job, I like to pop off the fan, pull off the wires at terminals, and reset breaker. If it stays on you have your answer without all those other tests.
I love the video!!! The only change that would be extremely helpful is if the camera was filming where you are testing the electrical components. In some parts the camera man is in front of the evaporator unit and you cant see what you're doing
Unreal. I literally came into the same issue today. Only been doing hvac for 3-4 months and got called out to help a tech figure out why the breaker kept tripping. Im a jman electrician and he thought it was electrical, and had to do another call. Anyways i did the exact same steps but starting with disconnect seeing if a short was either in line or load side. found a ring to ground on the load side of the contacter (2nd step i did) and same exact result. Again im very new and had to call the master hvac tech to come in to confirm since a failed compressor is kind of a big deal. He did an ohm test between leads and found ol on start to common which was a different method than i did. This trade is very dynamic and interesting and was cool to find an issue out rather than just doing electrical installs. Fun to trouble shoot.
Great video. I would add if that oil is acidic, install a suction drier to help clean that system. Your troubleshooting process is exactly the same as mine and I’ve been in the trade for almost 30yrs
Two HvAC guys came, did none of these diagnostics and told me I need a full system replacement...this industry has become so crooked with all hustlers & no skilled repairmen.
@@AngelHVACR Some trade schools are accredited by the same commissions that accredit bigger universities. you can get their associates and then transfer that to an engineering degree or business degree etc.
The company I work for requires that we recover and weight the charge as part of out diagnosis for failed compressors, we then put the charge back in case the customer wants a 2nd opinion. It's time consuming but covers your back incase there's a leak. Zack I'm sure can confirm that just because a system is newish does mean there's not a leak.
i work on a lot of Lennox systems, our company installed one in january and I was out there a week or two ago to find it dead empty. New stuff seems to be the leakiest lol
how do you know you pulled a full charge on a split unit if the data plate only tells you the condenser charge? Sounds like opprotunity for f#ckery if your tech purges hoses properly you'll lose a few ounces no matter what, also huge possibility of contamination of the refrigerant. Its generally a pretty safe bet if you put a guage on it and saturation is relatively close to ambient your fine.
@@TheMax13542 condenser label plus .6oz per feet of line set past 15 feet. You outa know that if you been in the feild for any length of time. Not saying I enjoy recovering for the fun of it, just sharing what my company practice is.
@@mattluongo7763 if you been in the field under someone who isnt a hack you'd now charge is dialed based on superheat/subcool. 0.6oz/ft is that a 3/8 liquid line, 1/4 liquid line, 3/4 suction, 5/8 suction? I suppose to ur out there with a tape measure everytime checking that lineset length. different sized lineset will measure different. the only way you know for sure if charge is 100% is SC/SH on a split AC system, anyone who tells you else is full of doodoo. And if done right ya you may only lose an oz purging but like i said opprotunity for f#ckery and contamination.
Probably mentioned in other comments but I'd have mentioned that the LL driver is replaced anytime a system is opened. It will be covered by Trane/AmStd when warranty compressor is changed. And if acid, consider Acid Away. If oil sample is not clear, a suction line filter added. Maximum 5 psi drop after 24 hours of RUN TIME and must be changed. If less than 3psi, ok to leave in but they are supposed to be removed when done cleaning up the system. If you want to get fancy, pipe a bypass around it.
If I had a bad burnout I would install a temporary clean up kit, and change out the dryers until the oil test showed no acid, and the oil was not discolored. These go in the suction line and have high capacity acid removal cores and temporary hoses. When you are done a piece of rigid pipe goes in place of where the kit was. I’ve replaced large compressors, 125 Carrier semi heretics which are very expensive. You can’t afford to have another failure, so you have to do everything possible to prevent it from happening again
You should use a megger capable of producing 500 or so volts for checking for grounded compressors and motors, instead of a ohm meter with a 9 volt battery. It will pick up high resistance ground faults measured in megohms, that an ohm meter can’t find. I use a crank type AMEC, and use it for troubleshooting all types of grounds. If that compressor turns out to be a burnout, there is more to cleaning the system, than blowing it out and putting in new refrigerant. You should install burn out dryers, or what they call a temporary clean up kit, and change out the dryer cores until there is zero acid in the oil. Otherwise you will have another burnout in short order. This procedure makes compressor replacements very expensive, because it can require multiple return trips. In the case of a running burn which has pumped contaminants such as nasty oil and soot thru- out the system it’s better to just replace the whole unit. If the burn is what we call “clean and sweet”, with no acid or odor in the oil, you can get by with just replacing the filter dryers.
with a dead short to ground in a compressor a mega ohm meter is not necessary. it's grounded, to what extent it's grounded is not vital. what he does not show is the condition on the condenser coil. spin fin tubing is notorious for clogging. maintenance on a trane condenser is time consuming and not done regularly. i'd bet that's the cause of the burn out.
@@tedallen9078 I agree if it is a dead short to ground, you will pick that up ok, but an ohmmeter cannot detect a very high resistance to ground at operating voltage. A condition such as this can still cause blown fuses and tripped circuit breakers.
Feeling that heat down here in the south, been having some systems failing or not keeping up mostly cause they never get there systems maintained even when it offered. Never get to many Trane/ American standard compressors fail. But stay safe in this heat.
I have many vents in my home. One vent doesn’t blow any air. It’s clean and open. All the other vents work and all filters are clean as I change them and check them every month.
On a bad compressor our policy is to document standing pressures, total static pressure and airflow across the evaporator coil to rule out any possibilities that may have caused it. Wondering if this something that you do ?
Sometimes an electrical failure can be caused by a mechanical failure that happened first, such as blown valves, caused by liquid refrigerant entering the compressor. The compressor would then run, but not pump, and cause it to overheat and burn out. It is important to check all electrical components, capacitors, replace the contractor, check for proper airflow, etc.
Most failures are because the installer was a buffoon and brased the lines without nitrogen and did not know how to properly evacuate and charge the unit. I installed my unit 32 years ago and I installed a hard start kit it is still running like a dream. I change the contactor every 7 years and keep the coil and filter clean
Hi Bill, have you used stabrite and stakleen yet? They say that nitrogen is not required when using it with Mappgas. My unit is 30 years old, on its last legs, and I'm thinking of replacing it myself. I'm very good at soldering copper plumbing pipes, and pretty much everything else.
@user-ut6ji8my2h No just use 15% silfos no flux required. Practice on some pipe. If you can solder you will be great at silver brazing because it's easier. Just be sure to use nitrogen for no oxidation and a clean joint
@user-ut6ji8my2h No you're right you do not need it with staybrite to the best of my knowledge. What I recommend is just use 15% silfos brazing rod with a nitrogen purge. . It's easier than using staybrite and be sure if you're refrigerant is high pressure like 410a you can use staybrite for pressures that high
Everyone don’t forget to flush your lines if bad compressor probably going to have oils and contaminants in the system. Here in KY I use r11 flush. Use virgin refrigerant guys unknowingly skip over this a lot around here and new compressor will go bad 1-5 years guaranteed. Braise w nitro, protect your valves, swap other warranty party while you’re in there. I also swap filter dryer to be safe 🤘
Why did the compressor fail? Did we check the superheat and compression ratio? Also install a HH drier and acid away and a suction filter drier.Also check the total static to be sure you have the proper air flow across the evaporator.
Thx for this, very knowledgeable. I work in Phoenix for Penguin air and i am always looking for a more efficient way of diagnosing a compressor as it can be tough to focus when it is 110+ out let alone patient
I’ve been working for just over a year, but in commercial and industrial, sometimes I feel overwhelmed but I want the money that comes with the commercial side. Been watching some residential guys and it seems less stressful. Do you have experience in any of this and have tips.
I had a HVAC technician come out today, $95 service fee and he told me my compressor was shorted to ground checking by the contactor but he never actually opened up the unit and checked the compressor itself. The unit is only 1 year old (rheem) so covered under warranty but then he needs to drain, recharge coolant and add in new filters I believe. In all it’s going to cost about $900. Should I go buy a multimeter for $50 and check compressor myself to make sure it’s not a bad harness or wire before I pay him $900
@@nicholasr7987 it was worst case scenario for me. Compressor broke apart and sent metal shards through the whole system. Paid $1,500 for new compressor which blew as soon as we turned it on. Had to get a whole new install and rheem wouldn’t honor warranty and it was through a “rheem pro” company. $8,000 for whole new system. Less than 2yrs old. Watch for the TXV valve in evap, tends to clog.
Hello there, we have problems with Voltage fluctuations, where the voltage dips briefly and then comes back on right away. This causes my AC compressor many problems, so I installed a ICM 102 Delay on Make Timer. The strange thing is that the timer does not cut out at those dips but only delays once the electricity goes off completely ( same counts for the built in delay in my Air handler thermostat). So here my question : what ICM could be a solution or do I need to install something else ? Thank you so much !
So my AC recently stopped working after a few hot days, and a HVAC tech came out and after a few continuity checks said the compressor was bad, my system was too old to economically fix, and they want to sell me a whole new heating and AC system for like $16K. He checked the disconnect on the side of the house, and the connections at the compressor after opening up the compressor's inspection cover, but I don't think he isolated the wires from the contactor to the compressor. Interesting note, was that there was no short to ground on the compressor wires. The breaker in the house does automatically trip a few seconds after energizing the system, so there is an issue somewhere. That is about all he checked electrically and did check to ensure there was refrigerant at the unit's hose connections. Not sure how "thorough" that inspection was, but I'm no expert. Thoughts on if it could be something else like a bad contactor or capacitor that he might have skipped before replacing the entire system? My system is like 29 years old, so it may be at end of life, but was working fine until it stopped. The tech had to call the office and confirm his diagnosis, so again, I wonder if his checks were thorough enough. We have had to replace the capacitor a few times over the years, and a contactor about 1.5 years ago. Otherwise it has worked just fine. Also, at what point do you do a acid check? Only when you are replacing the compressor?
I cannot unplug that wiring harness from the compressor. Does it take a lot of muscle to do it? Im afraid i'll damage something. Its a 20+ yr old r22 3.5 ton copeland . Looks like you used a lot of muscle to pull it off.
Sir, I have an OLD unit. has been well these past 10 years. The compressor stopped working (blower motor works) the three wires are brown yellow and blue. Which colored wires should i check to ground to determine if the compressor is shot...AKA broken. Best DVD:)
I changed the capacitor and it is not blowing cold air. Help Freon R22. air conditioner. The guy came out and said it was low. He put more in and still no air. Now what? Thank you for sharing this video.
Acid in the system can cause insulation in the compressor windings to break down. This will manifest itself by shorting to ground; If unit gets hit by lightning could be another reason. It's rare considering this unit has starting components and delay timers in the thermostat and elsewhere!
How do you store your Freon with working out of a truck with the decked drawer system, asking for my personal info, I’m converting over to working out my 1500 with drawer system and camper shell
@@nicholasr7987 ive had a bunt of about 7 yr old rheems leaking on the joints of the reversing valves and on the high pressure sensor coming off the top orf the compressore in the middle of the bend on the tiny tube
So I know how to check and see if the compressor is grounded but when you first checked and realized the fan or compressor was grounded where were you placing the meter leads?
Usually what I will do is disconnect the common and run wires and the herm Wire and then plug the disconnect back in and if the outdoor fan kicks on you know the compressor is bad if it’s not in thermal overload of course
The Logo of the unit should always be installed parallel to the side of the building for easier access. A little dirty is nothing, my Trane outdoor unit went for 16 years with not one service call until I replaced a rusty capacitor. The inside unit was at least twice as dirty of what you're showing.
@@Goodfella0982 Just to be clear, I'm talking about the outdoor unit exclusive. So when I finally had to open it up to replace a capacitor that had gone bad, that area was filled with cobwebs/spider webs. I also had to clean the area near the compressor because their were bits of insulation all around. Seems mice one time or another worked their way into the compressor sound jacked and nested. So I removed that jacket for the summer season, on RUclips you see a lot of compressors that aren't even using one, but let me tell you, it's like night and day with using a jacket vs not using one. Inside the house you could hear that compressor upon starting up, and also continuous running. Next season, I get a replacement jacket for sure.
An acid test kit comes with a strip similar to one used for testing water quality in a hot tub Once the old compressor is removed take a sample of the oil from the compressor and use the testing strip It will turn a different colour if acid is detected
So you shouldnt have continuity on any of the pins of the compressor when checking if its shorted out to ground or not? Wasnt very clear when you were checking thanks
So what he did was he disconnected the compressor wires (2 im assuming) at the contactor(inside the unit) he checked for continuity on those two wires he disconnected so when his meter beeped it ment that those wires are touching at each end of the wires or somwhere in the middle of the wires, when he went to unplug the pigtail at the compressor he probed with the meter the compressor one end of the meter was touching metal and the other probe was 3 terminals at the compressor which those are suppose to supply power not ground, therefor the insides of the compressor which should be power are touching metal (ground) which is not good the part doesnt work or will not function at all
@@Kilo5910420 yes . You do NOT want a path back to ground . Means in this case the compresor shorted itself to ground and its dead . He didnt show it but the last thing he could have done was a " redneck test " leave the compresor unplugged , put the fan and top back on and turn on the unit . If it runs and dosnt trip the breaker it further shows the comp was the problem .
I did that once and it blew the terminals right out of the compressor shell. Always a good idea to Meg everything out if you have a blown fuse or tripped breaker.
I just had a compressor not run and found the condenser fan to be locked but somehow prevented the compressor from running, not even a hum from the compressor, I'm sure it has to do with the capacitor(replaced during troubleshooting so both capacitors were good), anyone understand what was happening? I replaced the fan and everything worked fine after.
Wouldn't mind you making a "How to Diagnose" series with common issues to look out for
As a new guy in HVAC this would be a great series!
yes!
!
That would be a great idea now that I do service this would be clutch !
👍🏼💯 AGREE
im a new hvac tech in the field and just wanted to say i learned alot from you
Thanks to the installer who faced the access towards the home. They could have turned it another 90° and made life so much easier for technicians to work on it
Ok Sam
Punch a hole in the wall for easier access inside the building.
Putting the access panel on the outside not only looks like garbage, but have now exposed the lineset and valve to possible damage.
@@marketmash6953I think you don’t do Ac
Panel should be always service accesible
@@brianpatrick678 You can't fix stupid or lazy, and they go hand in hand.
I am a new tech in The Bahamas and I am very impressed and inspired by your standard of work and depth of knowledge...I hope to communicate more direct with you...continue the awesome work!!
All u need to do to see if is a bad compresor is take out the plung on the compresom turn on breaker if dont pop out breaker is a bad comp 👍
@@olytorres4499that’s the fastest way to check yes
These days finding refrigeration parts and compressors is getting ridiculous in the HVAC-R field great videos brother
I am a retired 69 yo HVAC contractor, licensed here in Texas, still working. I enjoy watching technician and i like your professionalism and the care you take to do things right. Thumbs up! No doubts, i only have my right arm, but i am able to change motors, capasitor, etc. Congratulation on this great video.
I have a question if you don’t mind to answer. My condensation drain line ends right outside my house. Literally at the end of the house foundation. There is a 6 inch cemet cut out that it drains into. The rest of the area is a very large concrete patio and pool area. Sometimes the water overflows and it covers the condensation line. I recently upgraded my entire unit with a Trane xr14 system. Is that going to be a problem in the future?
@@sergioorozco9044 well your condensate line should be flowing downhill so theoretically no. But maybe you could create a French drain or something like that to help drain the water.
With only one arm, you probably take twice as long and charge twice as much?
Good job, I like to pop off the fan, pull off the wires at terminals, and reset breaker. If it stays on you have your answer without all those other tests.
I love the video!!! The only change that would be extremely helpful is if the camera was filming where you are testing the electrical components. In some parts the camera man is in front of the evaporator unit and you cant see what you're doing
Run capacitor is never under warranty here in Massachusetts but I agree always change it out. Good technician he knows his stuff
Unreal. I literally came into the same issue today. Only been doing hvac for 3-4 months and got called out to help a tech figure out why the breaker kept tripping. Im a jman electrician and he thought it was electrical, and had to do another call. Anyways i did the exact same steps but starting with disconnect seeing if a short was either in line or load side. found a ring to ground on the load side of the contacter (2nd step i did) and same exact result. Again im very new and had to call the master hvac tech to come in to confirm since a failed compressor is kind of a big deal. He did an ohm test between leads and found ol on start to common which was a different method than i did. This trade is very dynamic and interesting and was cool to find an issue out rather than just doing electrical installs. Fun to trouble shoot.
Great video. I would add if that oil is acidic, install a suction drier to help clean that system. Your troubleshooting process is exactly the same as mine and I’ve been in the trade for almost 30yrs
That should be done anytime the system is opened to the atmosphere. Coil replacement, compressor replacement, Txv’s, Ext.
@@Review-This a liquid line drier, yes I agree but a suction drier isn’t needed every time a system is opened.
Two HvAC guys came, did none of these diagnostics and told me I need a full system replacement...this industry has become so crooked with all hustlers & no skilled repairmen.
Same thing happened to me, can you let me know if your compressor was actually bad?
@@ShyGuyFTWsometimes you need a new system if your existing system is r22
Great video, thanks! I'm currently a 2nd year student for HVAC and i really learn a lot from your vids!
2 years for an hvac school?
I did 9 months and now am a service tech i did not know school was that long
@@AngelHVACR yessir, currently finishing up my 2nd year ending in September. Final class is my 608 universal
@@AngelHVACR Yea, it's for my associates degree in applied sciences
@@AngelHVACR Some trade schools are accredited by the same commissions that accredit bigger universities. you can get their associates and then transfer that to an engineering degree or business degree etc.
Thank you so much for this content, it helps a lot those junior technicians like me.
I really like your troubleshooting procedure. Keep making more videos of it.
Beautifully quick way to explain this to technicians. Great video.
Nothing great about the video when we cant see what he is doing
The company I work for requires that we recover and weight the charge as part of out diagnosis for failed compressors, we then put the charge back in case the customer wants a 2nd opinion. It's time consuming but covers your back incase there's a leak. Zack I'm sure can confirm that just because a system is newish does mean there's not a leak.
i work on a lot of Lennox systems, our company installed one in january and I was out there a week or two ago to find it dead empty. New stuff seems to be the leakiest lol
how do you know you pulled a full charge on a split unit if the data plate only tells you the condenser charge? Sounds like opprotunity for f#ckery if your tech purges hoses properly you'll lose a few ounces no matter what, also huge possibility of contamination of the refrigerant. Its generally a pretty safe bet if you put a guage on it and saturation is relatively close to ambient your fine.
@@TheMax13542 condenser label plus .6oz per feet of line set past 15 feet. You outa know that if you been in the feild for any length of time. Not saying I enjoy recovering for the fun of it, just sharing what my company practice is.
@@TheMax13542 and how many oz you use to purge your lines? Only take a little bit of vapor
@@mattluongo7763 if you been in the field under someone who isnt a hack you'd now charge is dialed based on superheat/subcool. 0.6oz/ft is that a 3/8 liquid line, 1/4 liquid line, 3/4 suction, 5/8 suction? I suppose to ur out there with a tape measure everytime checking that lineset length. different sized lineset will measure different. the only way you know for sure if charge is 100% is SC/SH on a split AC system, anyone who tells you else is full of doodoo. And if done right ya you may only lose an oz purging but like i said opprotunity for f#ckery and contamination.
Probably mentioned in other comments but I'd have mentioned that the LL driver is replaced anytime a system is opened. It will be covered by Trane/AmStd when warranty compressor is changed. And if acid, consider Acid Away. If oil sample is not clear, a suction line filter added. Maximum 5 psi drop after 24 hours of RUN TIME and must be changed. If less than 3psi, ok to leave in but they are supposed to be removed when done cleaning up the system. If you want to get fancy, pipe a bypass around it.
If I had a bad burnout I would install a temporary clean up kit, and change out the dryers until the oil test showed no acid, and the oil was not discolored. These go in the suction line and have high capacity acid removal cores and temporary hoses. When you are done a piece of rigid pipe goes in place of where the kit was. I’ve replaced large compressors, 125 Carrier semi heretics which are very expensive. You can’t afford to have another failure, so you have to do everything possible to prevent it from happening again
You should use a megger capable of producing 500 or so volts for checking for grounded compressors and motors, instead of a ohm meter with a 9 volt battery. It will pick up high resistance ground faults measured in megohms, that an ohm meter can’t find. I use a crank type AMEC, and use it for troubleshooting all types of grounds. If that compressor turns out to be a burnout, there is more to cleaning the system, than blowing it out and putting in new refrigerant. You should install burn out dryers, or what they call a temporary clean up kit, and change out the dryer cores until there is zero acid in the oil. Otherwise you will have another burnout in short order. This procedure makes compressor replacements very expensive, because it can require multiple return trips. In the case of a running burn which has pumped contaminants such as nasty oil and soot thru- out the system it’s better to just replace the whole unit. If the burn is what we call “clean and sweet”, with no acid or odor in the oil, you can get by with just replacing the filter dryers.
with a dead short to ground in a compressor a mega ohm meter is not necessary. it's grounded, to what extent it's grounded is not vital. what he does not show is the condition on the condenser coil. spin fin tubing is notorious for clogging. maintenance on a trane condenser is time consuming and not done regularly. i'd bet that's the cause of the burn out.
@@tedallen9078 I agree if it is a dead short to ground, you will pick that up ok, but an ohmmeter cannot detect a very high resistance to ground at operating voltage. A condition such as this can still cause blown fuses and tripped circuit breakers.
i often pull out my meger first. but the cause is probably a restricted condenser coil.@@rodgraff1782
Just subscribed! I will be following you through my next year’s HVAC Journey😤
Feeling that heat down here in the south, been having some systems failing or not keeping up mostly cause they never get there systems maintained even when it offered. Never get to many Trane/ American standard compressors fail. But stay safe in this heat.
Agreed I hardly ever see a failed trane compressor but they did have a few years of unreliability
I have many vents in my home. One vent doesn’t blow any air. It’s clean and open. All the other vents work and all filters are clean as I change them and check them every month.
On a bad compressor our policy is to document standing pressures, total static pressure and airflow across the evaporator coil to rule out any possibilities that may have caused it. Wondering if this something that you do ?
I think adding a surge protector on I tail install is also a good idea to protect the compressor from brown outs and surges
Sometimes an electrical failure can be caused by a mechanical failure that happened first, such as blown valves, caused by liquid refrigerant entering the compressor. The compressor would then run, but not pump, and cause it to overheat and burn out. It is important to check all electrical components, capacitors, replace the contractor, check for proper airflow, etc.
Great video. No BS, just the facts. Subscribed!
Nice work !!! Good videos very organized and thorough as usual . Keep up the good work !
Nope
Piensas que hiso buen trabajo que me dices de las Aspas Como la puso Esa es muy delicada
Most failures are because the installer was a buffoon and brased the lines without nitrogen and did not know how to properly evacuate and charge the unit. I installed my unit 32 years ago and I installed a hard start kit it is still running like a dream. I change the contactor every 7 years and keep the coil and filter clean
Hi Bill, have you used stabrite and stakleen yet? They say that nitrogen is not required when using it with Mappgas. My unit is 30 years old, on its last legs, and I'm thinking of replacing it myself. I'm very good at soldering copper plumbing pipes, and pretty much everything else.
@user-ut6ji8my2h No just use 15% silfos no flux required. Practice on some pipe. If you can solder you will be great at silver brazing because it's easier. Just be sure to use nitrogen for no oxidation and a clean joint
@@billyflanagan9657 Thank you Bill, I thought nitrogen was not necessary with stabrite. I guess better to be safe than sorry, huh?
@user-ut6ji8my2h No you're right you do not need it with staybrite to the best of my knowledge. What I recommend is just use 15% silfos brazing rod with a nitrogen purge. . It's easier than using staybrite and be sure if you're refrigerant is high pressure like 410a you can use staybrite for pressures that high
@@billyflanagan9657 thank you, Bill.
That's a clean looking Civic.
I would like to see your method for blowing out the lines when you go back. Great video
Everyone don’t forget to flush your lines if bad compressor probably going to have oils and contaminants in the system. Here in KY I use r11 flush. Use virgin refrigerant guys unknowingly skip over this a lot around here and new compressor will go bad 1-5 years guaranteed. Braise w nitro, protect your valves, swap other warranty party while you’re in there. I also swap filter dryer to be safe 🤘
Why did the compressor fail? Did we check the superheat and compression ratio? Also install a HH drier and acid away and a suction filter drier.Also check the total static to be sure you have the proper air flow across the evaporator.
Thx for this, very knowledgeable. I work in Phoenix for Penguin air and i am always looking for a more efficient way of diagnosing a compressor as it can be tough to focus when it is 110+ out let alone patient
Congratulations on making the cover of The News!!
Zac, I hope you come out with some merch that says "quality hvacr" on it. That'd be cool.
Great Work and good recommendations on how to fix HVAC Properly, 👍
Just curious about this topic. A lot of youtube videos suggest only checking if the compressor is good electrically. Do these fail mechanically?
Big fan of the channel bro keep it up I’m in my first year of apprenticeship very helpful for me
I've always had problems getting trane parts.. and a.s
You’re very professional. Great job!
Good troubleshooting and diagnosis ... Thx for helping the new tech's out ...
FROM CHICAGO EXELENT VIDEO YOU GAVE US DITELS ABOUT IT THANK YOU SO MUCH
I’ve been working for just over a year, but in commercial and industrial, sometimes I feel overwhelmed but I want the money that comes with the commercial side. Been watching some residential guys and it seems less stressful. Do you have experience in any of this and have tips.
Would be nice if you did close-up shots when you do the testing.
I had a HVAC technician come out today, $95 service fee and he told me my compressor was shorted to ground checking by the contactor but he never actually opened up the unit and checked the compressor itself. The unit is only 1 year old (rheem) so covered under warranty but then he needs to drain, recharge coolant and add in new filters I believe. In all it’s going to cost about $900. Should I go buy a multimeter for $50 and check compressor myself to make sure it’s not a bad harness or wire before I pay him $900
I'm chasing a bad evap in Rheem....15 months old.
@@nicholasr7987 it was worst case scenario for me. Compressor broke apart and sent metal shards through the whole system. Paid $1,500 for new compressor which blew as soon as we turned it on. Had to get a whole new install and rheem wouldn’t honor warranty and it was through a “rheem pro” company. $8,000 for whole new system. Less than 2yrs old. Watch for the TXV valve in evap, tends to clog.
Hello there, we have problems with Voltage fluctuations, where the voltage dips briefly and then comes back on right away. This causes my AC compressor many problems, so I installed a ICM 102 Delay on Make Timer. The strange thing is that the timer does not cut out at those dips but only delays once the electricity goes off completely ( same counts for the built in delay in my Air handler thermostat). So here my question : what ICM could be a solution or do I need to install something else ? Thank you so much !
Hey that trane. The old orange compressor some times wait out a day and adding hardstart works
I work in the HVAC field as well Out of Nacogdoches Tx temperature will 98 no rain
I know bro .im over here in dallas .mucho hot
105° in Vegas, stay hydrated!
i like the odemon music at the end!
That red Honda Civic is clean
So my AC recently stopped working after a few hot days, and a HVAC tech came out and after a few continuity checks said the compressor was bad, my system was too old to economically fix, and they want to sell me a whole new heating and AC system for like $16K. He checked the disconnect on the side of the house, and the connections at the compressor after opening up the compressor's inspection cover, but I don't think he isolated the wires from the contactor to the compressor. Interesting note, was that there was no short to ground on the compressor wires. The breaker in the house does automatically trip a few seconds after energizing the system, so there is an issue somewhere. That is about all he checked electrically and did check to ensure there was refrigerant at the unit's hose connections. Not sure how "thorough" that inspection was, but I'm no expert. Thoughts on if it could be something else like a bad contactor or capacitor that he might have skipped before replacing the entire system? My system is like 29 years old, so it may be at end of life, but was working fine until it stopped. The tech had to call the office and confirm his diagnosis, so again, I wonder if his checks were thorough enough. We have had to replace the capacitor a few times over the years, and a contactor about 1.5 years ago. Otherwise it has worked just fine. Also, at what point do you do a acid check? Only when you are replacing the compressor?
I cannot unplug that wiring harness from the compressor. Does it take a lot of muscle to do it? Im afraid i'll damage something. Its a 20+ yr old r22 3.5 ton copeland . Looks like you used a lot of muscle to pull it off.
Great video
Curious to know if that air handler was/is the same age as the condenser?
please do a follow up video on this call with the blowout, and testing of refrigerant! thanks for your hard work!
So, curious question: can one say for certain the compressor is bad with using a set of cages only ? Seems to me you cannot.
Sir, I have an OLD unit. has been well these past 10 years. The compressor stopped working (blower motor works) the three wires are brown yellow and blue. Which colored wires should i check to ground to determine if the compressor is shot...AKA broken. Best DVD:)
What is the story with the 20 amp fuses in the box and the 30 amp breaker?
Nice vid man. I’m wondering what killed the compressor though
I changed the capacitor and it is not blowing cold air. Help Freon R22. air conditioner. The guy came out and said it was low. He put more in and still no air. Now what? Thank you for sharing this video.
What good is it to test that there is a shortage to ground if your camara man stays ten feet away and you don’t show where to put the probes. 😂
I have 2 of those units, 3 years old. Not happy with the issues I am having so far.
Sad that most newer equipment is pure JUNK! Just like home appliances they build today.
What caused the electrical short that damaged the compressor?
Acid in the system can cause insulation in the compressor windings to break down. This will manifest itself by shorting to ground; If unit gets hit by lightning could be another reason. It's rare considering this unit has starting components and delay timers in the thermostat and elsewhere!
Great video like always keep them coming 👍🏻
Another great video. Keep them coming👍👍
Question: I am not an AC tech. Why is it necessary to replace an entire outdoor unit if it has a bad compressor?
Because that's probably 80% of the cost of the entire outside unit ...
Can you do a video of you going through your tool bag what you carry on you
How do you store your Freon with working out of a truck with the decked drawer system, asking for my personal info, I’m converting over to working out my 1500 with drawer system and camper shell
That a good practice back in the days 😂😂😂
awesome Sr. Thank you
How do you test the oil in the bad compressor?
Last year I bought a trane and beside the new compressor, they had to install 2 more.
They've installed 2 compressors in a year on a new unit? Yikes
Are disconnects on air handlers common where you are? Where I am in MA we have service switches on indoor units and disconnects on outdoor units.
Very common here in NC
How do you swap the capacitor and contactor under warranty if they haven’t failed yet?
So when ever the compressor breaks the insides which are power (+) touch with ground (- metal) ? Making the output at the compressor (- negative)?
No if it's grounded is a dead-sort. Technically zero resistance!
@@bobboscarato1313 gotcha thanks 🙏
Absolute champion.
Great vid have you noticed an increase in Rheem reversing valves leaking alot in the the past year
Is this my problem?
@@nicholasr7987 ive had a bunt of about 7 yr old rheems leaking on the joints of the reversing valves and on the high pressure sensor coming off the top orf the compressore in the middle of the bend on the tiny tube
did you have your apprentice film you?
So I know how to check and see if the compressor is grounded but when you first checked and realized the fan or compressor was grounded where were you placing the meter leads?
Usually what I will do is disconnect the common and run wires and the herm Wire and then plug the disconnect back in and if the outdoor fan kicks on you know the compressor is bad if it’s not in thermal overload of course
Waste of time to add extra steps when in the end you're going to check the compressor terminals. I start at terminals and work back if needed.
The Logo of the unit should always be installed parallel to the side of the building for easier access.
A little dirty is nothing, my Trane outdoor unit went for 16 years with not one service call until I replaced a rusty capacitor. The inside unit was at least twice as dirty of what you're showing.
So you never replaced your indoor filter every month or so?
@@Goodfella0982 Just to be clear, I'm talking about the outdoor unit exclusive. So when I finally had to open it up to replace a capacitor that had gone bad, that area was filled with cobwebs/spider webs. I also had to clean the area near the compressor because their were bits of insulation all around. Seems mice one time or another worked their way into the compressor sound jacked and nested. So I removed that jacket for the summer season, on RUclips you see a lot of compressors that aren't even using one, but let me tell you, it's like night and day with using a jacket vs not using one. Inside the house you could hear that compressor upon starting up, and also continuous running. Next season, I get a replacement jacket for sure.
i will be waiting for the next video how to check the refrigerant to see is contaminated ..i wanna see how to check it
An acid test kit comes with a strip similar to one used for testing water quality in a hot tub
Once the old compressor is removed take a sample of the oil from the compressor and use the testing strip
It will turn a different colour if acid is detected
@@mitchmacleod7575 thanks ...👍👍👍
Looking forward to the follow up
the continuity made sound on the compressor, doesn't that mean its good?
My A/C unit is running but cold air is coming out of the unit, what could it be?
Bro ,please keep your video s are contentfulllness
What? No Trane parts in stock? This year is completely frustrating
Looking forward to the replacement video
Good video..where are u located
Good job Zack.
Awesome video!
Great video 💯
Great video thanks 👍🏼
So you shouldnt have continuity on any of the pins of the compressor when checking if its shorted out to ground or not? Wasnt very clear when you were checking thanks
So what he did was he disconnected the compressor wires (2 im assuming) at the contactor(inside the unit) he checked for continuity on those two wires he disconnected so when his meter beeped it ment that those wires are touching at each end of the wires or somwhere in the middle of the wires, when he went to unplug the pigtail at the compressor he probed with the meter the compressor one end of the meter was touching metal and the other probe was 3 terminals at the compressor which those are suppose to supply power not ground, therefor the insides of the compressor which should be power are touching metal (ground) which is not good the part doesnt work or will not function at all
@@DJV94022 got it. So if meter beeps when touching any of the pins at comp. means it is shorted.? Thanks for the info
@@Kilo5910420 yes . You do NOT want a path back to ground . Means in this case the compresor shorted itself to ground and its dead .
He didnt show it but the last thing he could have done was a " redneck test " leave the compresor unplugged , put the fan and top back on and turn on the unit . If it runs and dosnt trip the breaker it further shows the comp was the problem .
@@craigerickson8712 just like craig said
@@Kilo5910420 just like craig said
Do you get a new filter drier to replace too?
Always replace drier when you open a system, it saves future headaches.
@@Deltron6060 I know I was asking him if he did
Bro u rthr man keep the vidz
How did it fail?
Underground line set?
Why didn’t the fan still run?
What model fieldpiece meter is that?
Why didn’t just turn the system back on after figuring out it was a tripped breaker and check to see how many amps the compressor was pulling?
I did that once and it blew the terminals right out of the compressor shell. Always a good idea to Meg everything out if you have a blown fuse or tripped breaker.
I just had a compressor not run and found the condenser fan to be locked but somehow prevented the compressor from running, not even a hum from the compressor, I'm sure it has to do with the capacitor(replaced during troubleshooting so both capacitors were good), anyone understand what was happening? I replaced the fan and everything worked fine after.
Hey I'm in need of a b vent manufacturer is unknown do you know any custom installers we will make me a simple b vent
What I learned is that compressor just don’t die, they get murdered. What are the common causes that murders a compressor?
Sloppy installation is the number one killer.