A couple of mistakes here. So: to get the big bearing off the pinion, you need to use a bench grinder and grind away one side of the bearing until it is almost all the way through. Then it can be easily split and it will come off easily. When fitting the new bearing, leave it in boiling water for five minutes and using the old 'split' bearing, hammer it on quickly. When fitting the pinion, DO NOT fit the oil seal until the bearing preload is set. Fit the pinion, fit the crush tube and small bearing and prop flange. Tighten the nut to gradually crush the crush tube. This requires A LOT of force. You will need to clamp the flange in a big bench vice whilst you tighten the big nut. You will need to remove it from the vice periodically to check how much play you have. When you get close, tighten the nut a fraction at a time. When there is no play and the pinion spins easily, mark the position of the nut to the pinion with a centre punch and remove the nut and the flange. THEN you fit the oil seal (dip it in oil first) and flange and retighten the nut to the exact same position. When dismantling, make sure you mark the diff retaining circlips as they are shims and they MUST go back the same way. As for oil, EP90/140 synthetic is best. Also examine the condition of the sun/planet gears inside the diff. If they are badly pitted, the diff is basically scrap.
hi! after rebuilding my diff, i got rid of the howling noise but a new one appeared, on deccelerating/braking i feel a slight vibration in the car and a sound of rubbing/vibration coming from the diff area, could bad preload adjustment cause this? mine had a very very slight bit of play
Hi, I have a question, there's a difference that the ends of the circlips goes up or down? The differential it's a 215L from a e90 330d 2006, there's no an oil passage on top, I'll appreciate the answer, thanks in advance.
its actually should be not zero, there should be some preload. you might end with some noise, especially, when you install new one. there should some small drag on the bearings.
Thanks for your feedback! On older models where tapered roller bearings are used, they must have a preload. To my knowledge, this 168L model should have no preload at all as it uses ball bearings and crush spacer. The goal is zero preload. Tightens gradually in small steps approaching zero bearing clereance. The car has now been running for a few days and so far the diff is still working well and no any extra sound. The original fault; howling is lost :) Hopefully diff will stay that way in the future;)
@@JaniVoutilainen Hey, Are your diff running well with this setup without preload? Or you had to adjust later some extra preload? Actually I'm in the middle of the diff overhaul (same 168L) Thank you!
Thanks for this nice video! In my case, the nut is still very, very loose when the clearance is already 0. Would you know what could cause that, or is that normal and does it need loctite? Thanks!
@@JaniVoutilainen I'll press some more on the outer bearing shells and see if that gives room to tighten it. When comparing the old and the new crush bushing it is clear the new one is not pressed yet. Thank you for your help!
hello Jani , respect for your work. i wanna ask u , my diff on e91 touring make a whining noise. mechanic diagnostic : need replace diff. but i wanna rebuild like u my diff cause if i buy another one (not new) maybe after some km come back at same problem. if i respect your steps i make this whining dissapear? thanks. p.s. how much to fix it for me ?
After all, doing this is quite a project. And especially when I myself have never done anything like it before. Only an engine repair I did less than a year ago before this. It’s a bit of a lottery to go change the diff used. That’s why I decided to go into this project myself 👍
Where did you get the replacement parts for the diff. I wanna renovate my old diff, I currently switch the one i had for a renovate diff. So now I’m thinking of buying parts to fix my old. You have any links for the parts you used? :)
For example, Google it like: "BMW rear differential rebuild kit 462014710" And here's one link: www.schmiedmann.com/en/product/1979474-new?product=462014710
For example, Google it like: "BMW rear differential rebuild kit 462014710" And here's one link: www.schmiedmann.com/en/product/1979474-new?product=462014710
Great video mate! Is it usually the pinion that makes the whining noise or the side carrier bearings? Also what is that long flat bar you use to hold the pinion while tightening called? i want one! :)
![Rebuild rear differential [RING GEAR and BACKLASH] - Drivetrain rebuild PART 8 - BMW E91 engine N43](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TAEvuB99Ixk/mqdefault.jpg)
![Rebuild rear differential [RING GEAR and BACKLASH] - Drivetrain rebuild PART 8 - BMW E91 engine N43](/img/tr.png)
A couple of mistakes here. So: to get the big bearing off the pinion, you need to use a bench grinder and grind away one side of the bearing until it is almost all the way through. Then it can be easily split and it will come off easily. When fitting the new bearing, leave it in boiling water for five minutes and using the old 'split' bearing, hammer it on quickly. When fitting the pinion, DO NOT fit the oil seal until the bearing preload is set. Fit the pinion, fit the crush tube and small bearing and prop flange. Tighten the nut to gradually crush the crush tube. This requires A LOT of force. You will need to clamp the flange in a big bench vice whilst you tighten the big nut. You will need to remove it from the vice periodically to check how much play you have. When you get close, tighten the nut a fraction at a time. When there is no play and the pinion spins easily, mark the position of the nut to the pinion with a centre punch and remove the nut and the flange. THEN you fit the oil seal (dip it in oil first) and flange and retighten the nut to the exact same position. When dismantling, make sure you mark the diff retaining circlips as they are shims and they MUST go back the same way. As for oil, EP90/140 synthetic is best. Also examine the condition of the sun/planet gears inside the diff. If they are badly pitted, the diff is basically scrap.
hi! after rebuilding my diff, i got rid of the howling noise but a new one appeared, on deccelerating/braking i feel a slight vibration in the car and a sound of rubbing/vibration coming from the diff area, could bad preload adjustment cause this? mine had a very very slight bit of play
good job man, btw the easiest way to take the bearing carrier is to cut it diagonaly with angle grinder
Thanks! It is good to know 👍
Why do they use ball bearings??? I don't understand. The other bearings are 100 times better.
Great Job Jani The best video on youtube - Great Job tkanks to you I made The same with my differ all works:))) greatings from Poland
Hi, I have a question, there's a difference that the ends of the circlips goes up or down? The differential it's a 215L from a e90 330d 2006, there's no an oil passage on top, I'll appreciate the answer, thanks in advance.
its actually should be not zero, there should be some preload.
you might end with some noise, especially, when you install new one. there should some small drag on the bearings.
Thanks for your feedback!
On older models where tapered roller bearings are used, they must have a preload.
To my knowledge, this 168L model should have no preload at all as it uses ball bearings and crush spacer.
The goal is zero preload. Tightens gradually in small steps approaching zero bearing clereance.
The car has now been running for a few days and so far the diff is still working well and no any extra sound. The original fault; howling is lost :)
Hopefully diff will stay that way in the future;)
@@JaniVoutilainen
Hey,
Are your diff running well with this setup without preload? Or you had to adjust later some extra preload? Actually I'm in the middle of the diff overhaul (same 168L)
Thank you!
those are preload values but special tool is needed to measure them:
- 168L (ball bearing) - 0.2Nm - 0.4Nm
- 188L (ball bearing) - 0.4Nm - 0.6Nm
- 215L (ball bearing) - 0.6Nm - 0.8Nm
@@csmarcell Hi! It's worked okay, Thanks for asking 👍
Thanks for this nice video! In my case, the nut is still very, very loose when the clearance is already 0. Would you know what could cause that, or is that normal and does it need loctite? Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Did you replace the new crusher sleeve?
The main bolt must not be left loose! Loctite is not needed.
@@JaniVoutilainen I'll press some more on the outer bearing shells and see if that gives room to tighten it. When comparing the old and the new crush bushing it is clear the new one is not pressed yet. Thank you for your help!
Hello, where did u get your replacement bearings and seals from?
Wo hast du die Teile denn bestellt?
hello Jani , respect for your work. i wanna ask u , my diff on e91 touring make a whining noise. mechanic diagnostic : need replace diff. but i wanna rebuild like u my diff cause if i buy another one (not new) maybe after some km come back at same problem. if i respect your steps i make this whining dissapear? thanks. p.s. how much to fix it for me ?
After all, doing this is quite a project. And especially when I myself have never done anything like it before. Only an engine repair I did less than a year ago before this.
It’s a bit of a lottery to go change the diff used. That’s why I decided to go into this project myself 👍
Where did you get the replacement parts for the diff. I wanna renovate my old diff, I currently switch the one i had for a renovate diff. So now I’m thinking of buying parts to fix my old. You have any links for the parts you used? :)
For example, Google it like: "BMW rear differential rebuild kit 462014710"
And here's one link: www.schmiedmann.com/en/product/1979474-new?product=462014710
Hi I'm searching repair kit for bmw f11 20d 2012 M sport ratio 3.08
Hi sir, where did you bought the rebuild kit ?
For example, Google: BMW rear differential rebuild kit 462014710
Jani Voutilainen thank you !
my bearings just fell apart lmao
Where I can find internal parts for the differential?
For example, Google it like: "BMW rear differential rebuild kit 462014710"
And here's one link: www.schmiedmann.com/en/product/1979474-new?product=462014710
Great video mate! Is it usually the pinion that makes the whining noise or the side carrier bearings?
Also what is that long flat bar you use to hold the pinion while tightening called? i want one! :)
Thanks! 👍
Usually it is the pinion bearing that makes that sound.
That tool is like this:
www.turnermotorsport.com/p-640926-bmw-fan-clutch-wrench-set/
Good job man!a question please,did you used the distance Ring again or put it out?(6:38)!
Thanks! Yes, I used the distance ring again 👍
@@JaniVoutilainen thanks man ,it was very difecult to see,any way I got this shit together,your video helped me a lot,waiting for more vedioes.🦾
Plastic screwdriver...fa Christmas 🌲