The fact that so many people give these designs away for free in this community is mind-boggling to me. Thank you for your contribution. Queueing this print up now.
I have learned so much from others who shared their knowledge and techniques that it's important for me to try and give a little back when I can. Overall, it's a great community! Thanks for checking out my video and for giving my splitter a try!
Goodness, words cannot say how much I appreciate your video. I just received my X1 Carbon Monday 03/11/24, and for the last month or two have been reading and studying. I knew that I wanted your spitter but didn't quite understand the whole concept of it. Now, thanks to your patient video, I am able to do this. BTW I'm a 70 yo woman. An old dog learning new tricks ;) Thank you again from the bottom of my heart!
I am new to 3D printing and have had my P1S for a short time. I've watched dozens of videos and this is by far, the best. I can't thank you enough for the education.
Awesome! And finally, someone who details how their splitter works. As someone new to the 3D printing world, a little hand holding to start off is nice.
Thank you so much for this sir. You are absolute genius. This thing is very important when I do 36 hours complex very technical prints and need 100% success without relying on AMS getting stuck half way. Well done and thank you
Thank you so very much for this video. I am brand new to printing and this was explained perfectly. I now understand what it is, why I need it, and what to look for after printing.
after printed another model recommended from a youtuber and didn't work properly (was too long) I start searching for another one and this was looking a loot more promising and guess what? work like butter, thanks a lot.
Hey I just wanted to stop by and show support on your RUclips video I saw this on the bamboo lab maker thing and download it and print it out and then I printed the back piece to connect her with the magnets to go on and I got the sockets and I just installed it and it’s amazing I tried to the other ones and none of them are as good as that so thank you so much and hope you have a happy and safe and no clogs day
Awesome! It really is satisfying when you give it that first test and the filament passes through without a hitch! It's a good sign you have your printer and filament settings really dialed in too. Thanks for taking the time to share your success.
I was looking to build a Y Splitter for just this purpose and low and behold my good friend Ed has already created one for me. Thanks Ed! Gonna download and print this now. See you in June hopefully again for MRRF!
Thank you for this detailed video! I just got an AMS to add to my shiny new P1S, and want to be able to use non-AMS-compatible fil. This sounds perfect, and I have the PTFE connector gizmos in my AMZ shopping cart. I plan to print the Y in transparent PLA.
Thank you for this. I have tried a few Y-splitters and this one is by far the best one and it works well. Also, I appreciate your including the fusion source as it was educational on designing something like this.👍
I'm glad you like it, John! I've learned so much from others generosity when they share their source files that I feel it's important to give back in a small way when I can too.
Thank you for taking the time to design, print and test this device and for the detailed instructions of how to propelry install it. Well designed useful device. GREAT JOB!
Thanks, Nick! If it's not too late, I just posted a new and improved version on Printables. I recommend printing this one instead: www.printables.com/model/541678-bambu-ams-no-catch-y-splitter-pc4-m10
Great stuff! It seems that the self-tap versions don't have the 45 degree angle at the bottom of the mounting slot flange, so you have to add support material under the flange in the slicer. Am I missing something?
You can add supports, but they should print fine without them. It's been a while since I modeled that version, but I think that angle is steep enough to get a good result without supports. If you do decide to add supports, be sure to paint them manually. Using auto supports might mess with the support I modeled into the bottom leg. Thanks for reaching out!
@@makingwithanedj They are horizontal overhangs, so they definitely need supports. I just modded the included 'step' file to add the necessary angle at the bottom of the flange, so...all good now. Thanks for the great model!
@@imacmillok, I'm no longer confused! I see that for some inexplicable reason, I made that bottom edge flat on the "long slot" version. The shorter slot version doesn't have that problem. Thanks for pointing it out. I think I'll dust off the design and fix that issue.
Yes, a M3x6 works for the slimmer mounting clip and you'll need a M3x8 if you use the thicker clip. The screw bottoms out very quickly in the hole on the back of the printer, so that's why you will need different screws depending on which thickness of clip you use. In case you missed it in the description, I highly recommend checking out my updated design. It has a "unibody" with the mounting slot connected to the splitter and an improved path for the filament. www.printables.com/model/541678-bambu-ams-no-catch-y-splitter-pc4-m10
You can, but there's not a lot of excess length sticking out the back. I think a few others have done that by exposing more of the PTFE tube coming out the back. I was reluctant to do that since I didn't want to shorten the length inside the printer. The existing connector does work well and I haven't had a single issue leaving the short piece in place.
Hi there, I was having some difficulty understanding what you were trying to solve with your Y, but I think that I understand now. Correct me if I am wrong, this makes it so that you do not have to disconnect the AMS unit when using material on the spool holder? If so, this is great.
You can actually remove that standard PTFE coupler verry easily and pulling the extruder PTFE tube a bit back. There's plenty of room for that, more convenient and gives more room to work with and to connect it tidy. 2 couplers after each other within a cm really doesn't makes much sense.
This is true. You just need to make sure you expose enough of the PTFE tube so it can be fully inserted into the splitter. I haven't had a problem leaving the connector in place, but I'll probably take it out of the loop when I need to replace the PTFE tube going into the hot end.
@@makingwithanedj I'm using the oficial BL 4-in-1 adapter. There're some other mounts available for that one. And in this config I actually don't have room for the coupler. Your situation is different with the printed adapter yes. Well I also needed to extend the existing AMS PTFE tube because I'm using a riser. I did wanted to disassemble my brand new AMS unit for exchanging the tube with a longer tube. So I just re-used the existing coupler to put just a spare in between. So need to fix this in the future also. When there's a need to disassemble the AMS. But so for as long it works, then it works. 👍🏻
which of the 3 is used for 1.75 filament ? And im just confirming, when using the external spool you cannot use multiple colors? GREAT video and thank you for the great instructions!
Thanks for the kind comments. I do appreciate it! The splitter In this video is my original version and I highly recommend you download the new version that it linked in the description. It is very similar to this one, but has a few improvements. All versions are for 1.75mm filament. The differences between the various options are mainly in clearances for the PC4-M10 fittings. I learned that not all fittings are manufactured to the exact same specs, so I made several versions with different clearances for the threaded portion. Frankly, there is an overwhelming number of options in my new version because of all of the tweaks I've done since I originally published it. At this point, I recommend using the self-tapping splitter in the new version. There's a quick-to-print clearance tester to help you figure out which splitter to print. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Oh ok, Thank you for the new version, I ordered the m10s last night and scrapped together 3 of them from old printers for the time being but couldn't get this to print on x1 carbon anyway. The flat version should print just fine. thank you again. @@makingwithanedj
I have a P1S and I do not want to remove any screws. Has it been confirmed by people that is okay to not mount the splitter and just leave it hanging? Or I guess a mount could be put one with double sided foam tape?
@@makingwithanedj Thank you for replying so quickly. I got my PC4-M10 connectors today and they screwed right into the printed part perfectly. Thank you for the design. I have only had my printer less than a week but I already had to disconnect the AMS once to feed filament from outside the AMS (stupid cardboard spools and the printed solution for this brand made the roll tangle). This is going to be a frequently used addition. 😀
Hi Dan, which version did you download? I highly recommend the updated "no catch" version I linked in the description. That one has the mounting clip integrated into the splitter. It is also improved to virtually eliminate the need for any post-processing after printing. That design got a life of its own and grew to a ton of files. I recommend using the "self-tapping" version. There is a quick printing tester to figure out which size you need for your particular fittings. It eliminates the guess-work in selecting the correct clearance you need for a good fit. If you did download the original, there is a separate STL file for the mounting clip. The 3MF and STEP file versions have the clip and splitter combined in the same file.
Is a Y splitter not bad for your bambu lab x1c carbon? I mean, the printer and AMS were connected with each other with no air coming into the ptfe tube (now air is coming into the tube from the External spool hole (one of the two holes in the Y splitter)). I am afraid of breaking my printer...
That's a valid point. I didn't really consider that, but I don't have any problems with my filament absorbing moisture since I print mostly PLA and PETG. I don't think there's a risk of breaking your printer, but I suppose there may be enough air exchange that it could affect the moisture content of your filament. A simple cap with a 4mm diameter to cover the PTFE tube when not in use should do the trick. I will model one up and add it to the files on Printables.
Can you have the PTFE tube coming from the extruder and go all the way out the back of the printer and go directly into the splitter without that little connector ?
@@mrjayd I don't think it's necessarily better. Those connectors work well and I have not had a single issue with either of my X1C printers. That said, it would be a cleaner look and eliminate a potential point of failure.
Hi Steve, sorry for the delayed reply (I was travelling for a couple of weeks). If you're still in need, please reach out to me via email at ed@makingwithanedj.com and we can work something out.
Yes, there are 2 versions of the splitter. One for M3x6 and one for M3x8. Be sure to download the new version (link is in the description). It requires minimal post-processing compared to the version shown in this video. Good luck!
If the PTFE tube is a tight enough fit, it may work fine, but I'd still use the fittings since they keep the PTFE tubes from backing out and minimizing the chance of anything catching, especially when changing AMS filaments.
No, the filament on the spool holder cannot be controlled automatically like those in the AMS. There is no mechanism to load and unload the filament automatically. The main benefit to using a splitter is so you don't have to keep disconnecting the PTFE input to the hot end every time you want to print from the spool holder.
How did you bottom out PTFE tubes? did you enlarge PC4-M10 connectors? I bought several brands, however screw side doesn't allow 4mm tube to go through.
It fit fine for me, but I know a couple of other uses reported the same issue. Are you having trouble pushing it through the fitting or getting it to slide into the printed opening? If it's the fitting, I'm not sure what that could be. If it's the print, you may be over-extruding a bit or it's some other difference in our settings. You could try a bit of X-Y Hole Compensation in the slicer (something like 0.1 or 0.2mm to start). If you have a 4mm or 5/32" drill bit, you could carefully enlarge it that way too. My new design (the link to Printables.com is in the description above) has a lot more clearance for the PTFE tube for the top of the Y. The bottom also has a bit more clearance.
It's funny I'm printing this and watching the video and wondering to myself when I would actually need it? In what situations do you find yourself using it? It does look super useful if I have the situation come up though. Also just to add there's always someone posting something of no value. I enjoyed the video and demonstration. Sound quality of your video was fine I'm not tuning in for a music video.
The splitter simply makes it more convenient when I want to print from the spool holder rather than the AMS unit. I usually have my AMS loaded with PETG and when I want to print something with PLA, I don't have to bother swapping a roll out of the AMS. It's also really handy for printing with materials like TPU that don't work in the AMS. Thanks for your kind comments. I do appreciate it!
@@Oliver1071 I have only done one small print of some flexible feet so far. I dusted off a roll of Inland TPU I had sitting around for 2-3 years, dried it out, and it printed great for me with the generic TPU profile. After a bit of coaxing to get it pushed through the splitter, I had no trouble pushing it all the way through to the hot end. Because of the way the X1C handles loading and unloading, I had an easier time than using TPU on my CR-10S with direct drive.
@@makingwithanedj I didn't have anything good to clean up the inner bore so I'm adding a taper to the inside where the ptfe tube seats. Printing it now to see how it goes i.imgur.com/KXznmop.jpg Mine printed pretty good but I still felt a little catch especially with really stiff pla and at the end of the roll where it has some tight winding.
Yes, my splitter works on the P1S. The P1S is basically the same as the X1C in terms of mechanics, AMS, external spool, etc. It's missing some features and uses some less expensive components. There are many comparison videos to be found. It's a great printer if you're going to print mainly PLA and PETG.
@@makingwithanedj i almost bought it but as i want to finally print PC, a bed heating limited to 100°c is a show stopper for me. so in the end i wen to a new fystec voron 2.4 cnc kit. and i'll add a rapid carrot feeder. but thanks for the infos
There are some tricks to print with 5 or more colors if you have a single AMS, but the Y-splitter won't help. The main purpose for the splitter is so you can easily switch from the AMS to using an external spool without having to disconnect the PTFE tube from the rear coupling every time you want to switch. I use mine for printing TPU or when I want to print directly from my filament dryer. The printer can only switch colors automatically when using AMS units.
I'm sorry you found it so unbearable. I'm still a noob when it comes to post-processing / editing and I think my old ears can't hear the the noise as much as when I was younger. I usually record with OBS which gives me better sound quality and I did this one with my camera's built-in mic. Thanks for the feedback. I'll keep trying and hopefully do better next time!
The fact that so many people give these designs away for free in this community is mind-boggling to me. Thank you for your contribution. Queueing this print up now.
I have learned so much from others who shared their knowledge and techniques that it's important for me to try and give a little back when I can. Overall, it's a great community! Thanks for checking out my video and for giving my splitter a try!
Goodness, words cannot say how much I appreciate your video. I just received my X1 Carbon Monday 03/11/24, and for the last month or two have been reading and studying. I knew that I wanted your spitter but didn't quite understand the whole concept of it. Now, thanks to your patient video, I am able to do this. BTW I'm a 70 yo woman. An old dog learning new tricks ;) Thank you again from the bottom of my heart!
Thank you for the kind words and welcome to the wonderful world of 3D printing! I'm an old dog too, and love learning new things.
70! Wow so cool! 👏
I am new to 3D printing and have had my P1S for a short time. I've watched dozens of videos and this is by far, the best. I can't thank you enough for the education.
Awesome! And finally, someone who details how their splitter works. As someone new to the 3D printing world, a little hand holding to start off is nice.
Thank you so much for this sir. You are absolute genius. This thing is very important when I do 36 hours complex very technical prints and need 100% success without relying on AMS getting stuck half way. Well done and thank you
I appreciate the kind words and I'm glad it's working so well for you. Happy printing!
Thank you so very much for this video. I am brand new to printing and this was explained perfectly. I now understand what it is, why I need it, and what to look for after printing.
after printed another model recommended from a youtuber and didn't work properly (was too long) I start searching for another one and this was looking a loot more promising and guess what? work like butter, thanks a lot.
@@ramonqueloquera thank you, I'm glad it worked so well for you!
Hey I just wanted to stop by and show support on your RUclips video I saw this on the bamboo lab maker thing and download it and print it out and then I printed the back piece to connect her with the magnets to go on and I got the sockets and I just installed it and it’s amazing I tried to the other ones and none of them are as good as that so thank you so much and hope you have a happy and safe and no clogs day
Printed your latest version today and it works like a champ, thanks!
Awesome! It really is satisfying when you give it that first test and the filament passes through without a hitch! It's a good sign you have your printer and filament settings really dialed in too. Thanks for taking the time to share your success.
I was looking to build a Y Splitter for just this purpose and low and behold my good friend Ed has already created one for me. Thanks Ed! Gonna download and print this now. See you in June hopefully again for MRRF!
Happy New Year, Rob! Be sure to grab the new version. It works even better than this first iteration.
Brilliant video!!
Thank you for this detailed video! I just got an AMS to add to my shiny new P1S, and want to be able to use non-AMS-compatible fil. This sounds perfect, and I have the PTFE connector gizmos in my AMZ shopping cart. I plan to print the Y in transparent PLA.
Thank you for this. I have tried a few Y-splitters and this one is by far the best one and it works well. Also, I appreciate your including the fusion source as it was educational on designing something like this.👍
I'm glad you like it, John! I've learned so much from others generosity when they share their source files that I feel it's important to give back in a small way when I can too.
Thank you for taking the time to design, print and test this device and for the detailed instructions of how to propelry install it. Well designed useful device. GREAT JOB!
Thanks, Greg. I appreciate the kind words and great review. I hope it works well for you!
Pipe cleaner is good to clear out any debris and snooth the intervals.
Thank you. Helps a lot!
Going to print this tonight and order the parts. Thanks for posting a companion video!!
Thanks, Nick! If it's not too late, I just posted a new and improved version on Printables. I recommend printing this one instead: www.printables.com/model/541678-bambu-ams-no-catch-y-splitter-pc4-m10
Great video, thanks for the information.👍
Thanks!
Lovely ! Thanks for sharing.
You are the best, thank u:)
I use heatbreaks to get the best cuts running a razor across the metal edge at the part of the tube I want cut
Awesome video thanks
Thanks for the link to the files! I'll be printing it tomorrow.
Great stuff!
It seems that the self-tap versions don't have the 45 degree angle at the bottom of the mounting slot flange, so you have to add support material under the flange in the slicer. Am I missing something?
You can add supports, but they should print fine without them. It's been a while since I modeled that version, but I think that angle is steep enough to get a good result without supports. If you do decide to add supports, be sure to paint them manually. Using auto supports might mess with the support I modeled into the bottom leg. Thanks for reaching out!
@@makingwithanedj They are horizontal overhangs, so they definitely need supports. I just modded the included 'step' file to add the necessary angle at the bottom of the flange, so...all good now.
Thanks for the great model!
@@imacmillok, I'm no longer confused! I see that for some inexplicable reason, I made that bottom edge flat on the "long slot" version. The shorter slot version doesn't have that problem. Thanks for pointing it out. I think I'll dust off the design and fix that issue.
Excellent job Ed! 😊
Thanks Jackie!
So it is an M3 x 6mm that holds the y tube bracket to the printer. Just confirming. Nice design
Yes, a M3x6 works for the slimmer mounting clip and you'll need a M3x8 if you use the thicker clip. The screw bottoms out very quickly in the hole on the back of the printer, so that's why you will need different screws depending on which thickness of clip you use. In case you missed it in the description, I highly recommend checking out my updated design. It has a "unibody" with the mounting slot connected to the splitter and an improved path for the filament. www.printables.com/model/541678-bambu-ams-no-catch-y-splitter-pc4-m10
@@makingwithanedj Got it. Thanks so much.
Printed and installed. Works well.
Awesome, glad to hear it!
Why didn't eliminate the that short connector that has blue & black ends? Connect the spliter directly to the PTFE tubes comes from machine.
You can, but there's not a lot of excess length sticking out the back. I think a few others have done that by exposing more of the PTFE tube coming out the back. I was reluctant to do that since I didn't want to shorten the length inside the printer. The existing connector does work well and I haven't had a single issue leaving the short piece in place.
Hi there, I was having some difficulty understanding what you were trying to solve with your Y, but I think that I understand now. Correct me if I am wrong, this makes it so that you do not have to disconnect the AMS unit when using material on the spool holder? If so, this is great.
@@CR3DT exactly!
D/L'd it and going to install it, doing up an enclosure for my P1P.. will let you know how it goes. Thank you for this btw! VERY clean!
You can actually remove that standard PTFE coupler verry easily and pulling the extruder PTFE tube a bit back. There's plenty of room for that, more convenient and gives more room to work with and to connect it tidy. 2 couplers after each other within a cm really doesn't makes much sense.
This is true. You just need to make sure you expose enough of the PTFE tube so it can be fully inserted into the splitter. I haven't had a problem leaving the connector in place, but I'll probably take it out of the loop when I need to replace the PTFE tube going into the hot end.
@@makingwithanedj I'm using the oficial BL 4-in-1 adapter. There're some other mounts available for that one. And in this config I actually don't have room for the coupler. Your situation is different with the printed adapter yes.
Well I also needed to extend the existing AMS PTFE tube because I'm using a riser. I did wanted to disassemble my brand new AMS unit for exchanging the tube with a longer tube.
So I just re-used the existing coupler to put just a spare in between.
So need to fix this in the future also. When there's a need to disassemble the AMS.
But so for as long it works, then it works. 👍🏻
Excellent ! If I buy a Bambu X1C it will be the first improve I will make.
Thanks! The splitter really does make it more convenient to use the external spool holder with the AMS unit.
which of the 3 is used for 1.75 filament ? And im just confirming, when using the external spool you cannot use multiple colors? GREAT video and thank you for the great instructions!
Thanks for the kind comments. I do appreciate it! The splitter In this video is my original version and I highly recommend you download the new version that it linked in the description. It is very similar to this one, but has a few improvements. All versions are for 1.75mm filament. The differences between the various options are mainly in clearances for the PC4-M10 fittings.
I learned that not all fittings are manufactured to the exact same specs, so I made several versions with different clearances for the threaded portion. Frankly, there is an overwhelming number of options in my new version because of all of the tweaks I've done since I originally published it.
At this point, I recommend using the self-tapping splitter in the new version. There's a quick-to-print clearance tester to help you figure out which splitter to print. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Oh ok, Thank you for the new version, I ordered the m10s last night and scrapped together 3 of them from old printers for the time being but couldn't get this to print on x1 carbon anyway. The flat version should print just fine. thank you again. @@makingwithanedj
Thank you so much for this tutorial!!
can you print tpu with this system
Yes, you can print TPU, but it's not recommended to load it from the AMS. You can feed it from the spool holder and it should work fine.
I have a P1S and I do not want to remove any screws. Has it been confirmed by people that is okay to not mount the splitter and just leave it hanging? Or I guess a mount could be put one with double sided foam tape?
It's fine to use it without mounting it. There is not much movement if the PTFE tube on the hot end side is kept relatively short.
@@makingwithanedj Thank you for replying so quickly. I got my PC4-M10 connectors today and they screwed right into the printed part perfectly. Thank you for the design. I have only had my printer less than a week but I already had to disconnect the AMS once to feed filament from outside the AMS (stupid cardboard spools and the printed solution for this brand made the roll tangle). This is going to be a frequently used addition. 😀
Will this allow me to use the AMS for a two color "base layer" and then use the back spool holder for TPU, all in the same print?
Nice design, I like your better than the one I already printed but have never installed.
What was the name of the PETG you were using?
I printed mine with Numakers PETG. I love how well the stuff prints. Virtually no stringing and very clean looking results.
I downloaded the y splitter but did not see the mounting clip. If I missed something I apologize as I am just beginning to work on 3D.
Hi Dan, which version did you download? I highly recommend the updated "no catch" version I linked in the description. That one has the mounting clip integrated into the splitter. It is also improved to virtually eliminate the need for any post-processing after printing. That design got a life of its own and grew to a ton of files. I recommend using the "self-tapping" version. There is a quick printing tester to figure out which size you need for your particular fittings. It eliminates the guess-work in selecting the correct clearance you need for a good fit.
If you did download the original, there is a separate STL file for the mounting clip. The 3MF and STEP file versions have the clip and splitter combined in the same file.
Is a Y splitter not bad for your bambu lab x1c carbon? I mean, the printer and AMS were connected with each other with no air coming into the ptfe tube (now air is coming into the tube from the External spool hole (one of the two holes in the Y splitter)).
I am afraid of breaking my printer...
That's a valid point. I didn't really consider that, but I don't have any problems with my filament absorbing moisture since I print mostly PLA and PETG. I don't think there's a risk of breaking your printer, but I suppose there may be enough air exchange that it could affect the moisture content of your filament. A simple cap with a 4mm diameter to cover the PTFE tube when not in use should do the trick. I will model one up and add it to the files on Printables.
Can you have the PTFE tube coming from the extruder and go all the way out the back of the printer and go directly into the splitter without that little connector ?
You can, but you may have to replace the existing tube with a longer piece. There's not a lot of excess length sticking out the back.
right but I was just wondering if that is better than having that little coupler piece on the back?
@@makingwithanedj
@@mrjayd I don't think it's necessarily better. Those connectors work well and I have not had a single issue with either of my X1C printers. That said, it would be a cleaner look and eliminate a potential point of failure.
Can i buy one ready to use from you? X1C with mount and connectors.
Hi Steve, sorry for the delayed reply (I was travelling for a couple of weeks). If you're still in need, please reach out to me via email at ed@makingwithanedj.com and we can work something out.
Will m3x8 screws work ok for the clip? Can’t seem to find m3x6 in Australia!
Yes, there are 2 versions of the splitter. One for M3x6 and one for M3x8. Be sure to download the new version (link is in the description). It requires minimal post-processing compared to the version shown in this video. Good luck!
Is the coupler necessary? Seems to work without it and going directly from x1c to splitter
If the PTFE tube is a tight enough fit, it may work fine, but I'd still use the fittings since they keep the PTFE tubes from backing out and minimizing the chance of anything catching, especially when changing AMS filaments.
Can you use all 5 at the same time? Like - could you print a file with 5 colors in it automatically?
No, the filament on the spool holder cannot be controlled automatically like those in the AMS. There is no mechanism to load and unload the filament automatically. The main benefit to using a splitter is so you don't have to keep disconnecting the PTFE input to the hot end every time you want to print from the spool holder.
How did you bottom out PTFE tubes? did you enlarge PC4-M10 connectors? I bought several brands, however screw side doesn't allow 4mm tube to go through.
It fit fine for me, but I know a couple of other uses reported the same issue. Are you having trouble pushing it through the fitting or getting it to slide into the printed opening? If it's the fitting, I'm not sure what that could be. If it's the print, you may be over-extruding a bit or it's some other difference in our settings. You could try a bit of X-Y Hole Compensation in the slicer (something like 0.1 or 0.2mm to start). If you have a 4mm or 5/32" drill bit, you could carefully enlarge it that way too. My new design (the link to Printables.com is in the description above) has a lot more clearance for the PTFE tube for the top of the Y. The bottom also has a bit more clearance.
@@makingwithanedj it's the fitting... I will try the same brand. for now I skipped fittings all together and it works fine :)
Followed your video and now my filament is stuck.
@@GloriaElenaGamez I'm sorry to hear that. , but without more specifics, it's hard to help.
does this work with the p1s aswell?
Yes, several P1 series owners have printed and used them. It should work fine.
@@hoagytech thnx u appreciate the reply
It's funny I'm printing this and watching the video and wondering to myself when I would actually need it? In what situations do you find yourself using it? It does look super useful if I have the situation come up though. Also just to add there's always someone posting something of no value. I enjoyed the video and demonstration. Sound quality of your video was fine I'm not tuning in for a music video.
The splitter simply makes it more convenient when I want to print from the spool holder rather than the AMS unit. I usually have my AMS loaded with PETG and when I want to print something with PLA, I don't have to bother swapping a roll out of the AMS. It's also really handy for printing with materials like TPU that don't work in the AMS. Thanks for your kind comments. I do appreciate it!
@@makingwithanedj I haven't tried TPU yet with the X1 that's a good use case. how does it handle the long run of bowden tube?
@@Oliver1071 I have only done one small print of some flexible feet so far. I dusted off a roll of Inland TPU I had sitting around for 2-3 years, dried it out, and it printed great for me with the generic TPU profile. After a bit of coaxing to get it pushed through the splitter, I had no trouble pushing it all the way through to the hot end. Because of the way the X1C handles loading and unloading, I had an easier time than using TPU on my CR-10S with direct drive.
@@makingwithanedj I didn't have anything good to clean up the inner bore so I'm adding a taper to the inside where the ptfe tube seats. Printing it now to see how it goes i.imgur.com/KXznmop.jpg Mine printed pretty good but I still felt a little catch especially with really stiff pla and at the end of the roll where it has some tight winding.
@@Oliver1071 mines catching too, did yours work?
anyone knows if this works with P1S too ? if the p1S firmware support external spool too ?
Yes, my splitter works on the P1S. The P1S is basically the same as the X1C in terms of mechanics, AMS, external spool, etc. It's missing some features and uses some less expensive components. There are many comparison videos to be found. It's a great printer if you're going to print mainly PLA and PETG.
@@makingwithanedj i almost bought it but as i want to finally print PC, a bed heating limited to 100°c is a show stopper for me. so in the end i wen to a new fystec voron 2.4 cnc kit. and i'll add a rapid carrot feeder.
but thanks for the infos
Nice job! Where do I get the file to print the splitter and holder?
Thanks! You can download it from Printables.com. The link is in the description.
Would i be able to print in 5 colors
There are some tricks to print with 5 or more colors if you have a single AMS, but the Y-splitter won't help. The main purpose for the splitter is so you can easily switch from the AMS to using an external spool without having to disconnect the PTFE tube from the rear coupling every time you want to switch. I use mine for printing TPU or when I want to print directly from my filament dryer. The printer can only switch colors automatically when using AMS units.
Is it OK to print this thing in PLA?
@@aemaething yes, I have printed in both PLA and PETG. PLA is more rigid and is a bit more finicky with screwing in the fittings, but it works fine.
What are the differences between the 0.0, 0.05 and 0.1 files you've linked on printables? Edit discussed at:
ruclips.net/video/_O-eqUQ1SiI/видео.html
It's just the difference in clearance around the threads. .05 seems to work well for most. I was able to turn them in by hand with .05.
Jeez, sound is terrible. I had to stop watching within minute. This is unbearable. You should cancel the noise.
I'm sorry you found it so unbearable. I'm still a noob when it comes to post-processing / editing and I think my old ears can't hear the the noise as much as when I was younger. I usually record with OBS which gives me better sound quality and I did this one with my camera's built-in mic. Thanks for the feedback. I'll keep trying and hopefully do better next time!
@@makingwithanedjFine for me. Maybe he’s using bad speakers
@@makingwithanedj I think everything sounds wonderful!
That's overly dramatic. I have no trouble listening on my phone. Voice is clear. Little noise in the background but definitely not unbearable.
This could all be explained in 5 minutes maximum.
It's my special gift. I can explain anything in 20 minutes that others can do in 5. 😉