Clark Fletcher paved the way for a lot of us. I’ve created content here while referencing his garage shop manual and other technical sources with any new information I’ve found along the way.
I don't know how many thousands of dollars you've saved me, but it's much more than one! The videos are very detailed; and the videography is great! Without you I wouldn't have been able to replace my head gasket. My hatch wouldn't open properly,. My AOS seals would still leak. My horn wouldn't work. I wouldn't have know how to replace all the seals in the cam tower, or do the belts. You get the idea. I knew nothing about these cars a couple years ago. Last year, with the baseline confidence your vids have given me I was able to turbo swap my car, rebuilding both the top and bottom ends in the process. And... the damn thing runs! You have done a tremendous service for the community; and I am most grateful!
@@ch-lx2fl Based on the going Porsche Tech rate of $180/hour, I’d estimate at least $5,000 in savings. 😂 It sounds like your car has come a long way, very well done!
You should really appreciate the fact that when I look up a 944 repair topic on RUclips, I’m always DELIGHTED to see a relevant video with your name on it!
HA! I guess I do have a decent spectrum of repairs covered at this point. I like the idea of a “one stop shop” for all things 944, but I don’t think I’ll fully get there, at least the common things are presented well enough. I’m also less inclined to take the time to repeat repairs that are extensively covered in other people’s videos unless I can add new insight to the topic. Thanks for the feedback! 👍🏼
10/10. Wonderful job on this video. This is the archetypal example of the perfect RUclips tutorial. Thanks much for your efforts to document this for the rest of us!
Wait!? So I shouldn’t add in some inaccurate information, shaky camerawork, bad jokes, unrelated ramblings, and annoying music? 🤣 Jokes aside, thanks for the feedback. End-to-end, this one took about 8 times longer than the actual work itself would have. They generally all have the same issues eventually, so hopefully it helps some folks. 👍🏼
@@NC944er I believe you, James! I’ve shot some footage as I’ve worked on mine, since S2 tutorials are few & far between, but haven’t had the time to edit a mile of footage down to a compact 5 minutes. Thanks for putting in that much effort for the rest of us. I’ll look forward to your next video!
One of THE BEST tutorials for this problem. Concise, well narrated with video support which doesn't ramble on and breaks the whole job into working parts and function. You've got me subscribed. I'll be watching more. Great job.
Noticed a small plastic adjuster on the ball joint receiver on my 1985.5, it can be lengthened, which, after completed allows the hatch lock to move freely. The hatch lock was previously not closing all the way. The lock was no longer stuck in an open position; but since I bought a new part - I decided to install it and kept the original.
I’d recommend running a tap through if you’re changing pins anyway. All sorts of crap came out of mine and of course they now thread in and out with hand force rather than locking pliers and a cloth
Great detail and video of how components work together, it helped me fix my stuck right side latch. Thanks you for the time you put into this. Do you have a video on how to adjust the rear window so it lines up correctly in its frame ? mine is pressing on the top right part of frame and has significant gap on the top left side.
@@eliseoalvarez7371 Hey, are you saying that the rear glass is pulling away from the metal frame on one side, but the frame is well spaced across the adjoining roofline? If so, that is a common issue where the glass is delaminating from the frame. You’d be looking at a rebuild of the hatch glass with new adhesive or an entire hatch replacement to correct it.
Thanks! I actually consider this my best video. 😂 I’ve tried to model subsequent content off the same format as people seem to like it - simple, informative, and to the point.
Great video! Clear and concise, covering all of the adjustments. Unfortunately for me the screws on the housing are rusted solid and the rubber mounting holding the latch pin is stripped. Fun times ahead.
Very good presentation and I learned from it. I have a strange problem with latch pin alignment. I have owned this car for 40 years and have replaced the decklid (rear hatch) struts/shocks several times as they wear out and the decklid will not stay open. This happened again and I ordered and installed two new shocks (OEM) from Pelican Parts. Easy to install but with the new shocks the decklid is very hard to open and close as if the shocks are too strong. BUT the major problem is the latch pins no longer are aligned with the pin receiver and I cannot completely close and lock the decklid. If I loosen on end of the shocks and just let them dangle in space the decklid pins are aligned with with the latch receiver and it closes and locks OK. With the new shocks attached the latch pins and receiver holes are off and the pin will not go into the receiver. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Yeah, so there’s a known issue with the 944 decklid design where the hatch struts apply constant rearward pressure on the glass. Over time, the adhesive the secures the glass to the metal frame along the top edge gives way and the glass begins to separate from the frame, often referred to as delamination. This can cause water leaks and alignment problems with the assembly. Some 944 owners opt not to replace the hatch struts with new units for this reason, and simply continue to use old struts or none at all so that they don’t end up having to replace the entire hatch. There’s also a DIY repair option to reseal the glass to the frame with new adhesive. I’d take a closer look at the top of the frame and see if this is the cause of your problem.
Thanks for making this one, very helpful. I have a 1983 and I have had the rear hatch open by itself while driving more often recently. When I check inside the hatch pin seats to see if both arms open and close, I only see one arm inside the black hatch pin seat 'box'. Not sure if maybe that is something unique to the early cars? This is a model without the motor to open the rear hatch, so twisting the key in the rear key lock seems to be the only way to open it. Wondering if it would make sense to replace these older hatch pin seat units with a later car model, which would have both of the arms? In the meantime, will see if I can adjust the metal rods which control the arms inside the seat boxes, and see if that makes any difference. The pin heads themselves don't seem to be too worn down, so I suspect the clamp arms inside the seat boxes are worn / can't hold them tight enough when going around corners or over bumps. Thanks again for the video.
No doubt, I’m glad it was helpful! I’m seeing that there are two different versions of the hatch pin receivers, one with the single locking arm and one with the double arms. Not sure if that’s and early versus late thing, but they appear to be interchangeable, as Ian of 944Online has all the part numbers listed under one product. They are about $150 apiece for the left and right latches individually. Check out part numbers 944-538-955-01 and 944-538-956-01.
@@NC944er amazing, thank you again! I may see if I can adjust the pins, or the single locking arms tighter within the existing units, and if not, it’ll be time for an upgrade. Appreciate it.
Love your videos so much!!! I just adjusted those studs in the rear and they finally fit snug, no more bouncing with the new deck lid struts I put in. But, my right stud sticks and doesn't release well, the left side pops right out. Any suggestions?
If both pins release fine with the key, but the right one sticks when operating the electronic release, it’s like the cable that needs tightening as shown in the video. Otherwise, ensure the pin release is fully opening on the right side. If not, you may need to adjust the plastic ball joint on the end of the connecting rod for that side.
@@commonsense311 Interesting! Yeah, try to actuate the release using the key with the hatch open and inspect the movement and positioning of the latches on both sides. See if the left is opening wider than the right.
I just had an ah ha moment on mine. The hatch works fine with the key and if I hit the release button, both locks spread open the same as with the key. What I realized though is that this method will never work unless you have OEM struts to pop the hatch “up” to clear the locks. When you use the key, you can hold it as long as you want to pull the hatch up. With the motor, it’s only unlatched for a split second and if the hatch doesn’t move UP, it’s just going to snap back to locked. Am I thinking about that correctly and is there any work around? I don’t really want to use OEM struts because of the tension on the glass. Bob
@@bobd9868 Hey Bob! Yes, your assessment sounds correct. Mine currently has “old” OEM struts that hold the weight of the glass when raised, but don’t raise it under their own power, which I think is the sweet spot to avoid hatch glass delamination. I’ve replaced the rear hatch seal as well, and that has given it enough buffer for the motor to release the pins and lift the glass slightly. So if your hatch seal is really worn and compressed, maybe look at replacing it to solve your problem.
Thank you so much I believe I have fixed the hatch release mechanism. Your hatch springs up fast when you release yours. Are you using any type of special strut shock dampers or are they OEM 944 ones? I have to lift and assist my hatch up so maybe mine are weak, but would like to know which ones you have. Thank you 😃
Nice! My hatch struts are stock, but perhaps not as gassed out as yours. The struts actually cause a known issue where they apply backward pressure on the glass, which creates delamination along the upper seal and the hatch will eventually develop leaks. Some people opt to keep a set of older struts installed on the glass as they apply less pressure than a new set of struts.
ok, I'm still stumped on this one if you have any thoughts. I have new OEM/Stabilus struts now and this thing wants to open! plenty of lifting power. With the key, I can see that both jaws fully open the exact same amount on both sides. The driver side "pops" but I cannot (after trying dozens of times) get the pass side to do the same, I need to help it which defeats the purpose of the remote release anyway. All of the hardware is like new, zero rust. Is the adjustment to where it works in fractions? I've been working in 1/2 turns but cannot find that sweet spot. Is there anything else I can try?
Coming back to my comment below. Are OEM struts an instant frame/glass issue? I would really like to the remote release to work along with the hatch light on/off separate from the door. My current non OEM struts hold the hatch up just fine but there is ZERO pop up so it releases (rear seal is good). Just curious if I should leave well enough alone and just forget these two functions.
@@bobd9868 It depends on the existing condition of the hatch glass/frame and how the hatch has been used (or abused) in the past. The delamination process is hastened when the glass has been twisted in the frame while being closed with one hand or with uneven pressure on one side.
Hi-So it's really bugging me that such a cool feature on a 34 year old car like popping the hatch isn't functioning-so Thanks for another super video! My switch works, I can hear the activation but still need to use key to open. I checked the length of the pins and as you suggested, the LH side pin was shorter by almost 0.25" compared to the RH side. I lengthened the LH pin so that lengths same-and after cleaning off pins and receivers, the hatch opens via the switch now! Except...the left side now rattles and is almost .5" loose whereas the RH side is a good seal. Screwing in the LH pin again enough to seal hatch now get's me back to square one-hatch only opens with key! What am I missing? BTW I did zero adjustment at the lock/motor/activator arms
Yeah, it’s a pretty funky design with too many parts involved. 😂 That left side may very well have been shortened by someone previously attempting to resolve the rattle, which really should have been addressed another way. After you’ve properly adjusted the pin heights and hatch closure gaps, there are two things to check - 1. The hatch pin “seats” and 2. The main hatch seal itself. There should be a small rubber seat grommet inside each pin receiver that applies a little upward pressure on each pin to hold it steady. These tend to break down and need to be replaced, sometimes they crumble and wash out the drain tubes. If those are still in place and intact, check the main hatch seal for wear. If it is very dry/cracking or significantly compressed around that lower hatch lip (as in the rubber doesn’t bounce back into a round shape when the hatch is opened), it may be time to replace the hatch seal as well. A nice/new seal will also apply some upward pressure on the hatch to reduce rattling. Here are a couple links to check out… 944online.com/rear-hatch-receiver-lock-repair-kit.html 944online.com/rear-hatch-seal.html
Your troubleshooting guide help me open my stuck hatch. Key won’t turn and thus won’t open. I may need new pin seats. I wanted to ask my driver door is stuck shut. Can’t open from inside or outside. Outside handle does not click when squeezed, just recedes into door handle. As the door won’t open I can’t remove the inside door card , not can I access the outside handle. Any suggestions ???
Oh man, that is a tough one. I haven’t experienced that yet, but have seen others mention it on forums. You may need to tear down your other door and study the latch to see how it works, then get creative with triggering the latch on the stuck door with a screwdriver. Here is one solution I found, it may apply to your situation: forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/139127-my-door-wont-open-anymore.html
@@spencer2.032 Hey! Hard to say without seeing it firsthand. I would ensure all the parts are fully connected, properly aligned, and moving correctly. There are also small rubber “seats” that sit in the pin receivers, which can break down and become dislodged, so check that everything is clear to receive the pins when closing the hatch.
I believe you’re referring to the hatch pin mounts, part number - 477827035 OEM - www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/477827035.htm?pn=477-827-035-OEM Aftermarket - www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/477827035.htm?pn=477-827-035-M995
I’m afraid I’m not quite sure which part your referring to based on that description. If you can find it on the parts catalogue, you can search the part number and any number of vendors may offer it for sale.
Yeah, I’ve seen similar mentions on quite a few occasions, with some people saying that the glass delaminated within days of installing new struts… which is why I’ve deliberately NOT replaced the ones on mine, they are probably at half strength right now. Some people go without them altogether and just prop the hatch as needed, but I guess it depends on how often you use the cargo area. I’ve also seen people install some struts for the 87-96 Jeep Wrangler, StrongArm #4761, as they are similar sized and have the electrical connectors for the cargo light circuit, but have much less pressure to them. There are other factors that may hasten the delamination in my opinion like putting uneven pressure on one side of the glass when closing the hatch, as this causes the glass to twist inside the aluminum frame. So I generally try to close mine with two hands placed over each of the hatch pins.
My hatch is haunted. I can open it up by a key and thats it. I push the button under the dash, and it just spins the little motor in the back by the hatch? Any suggestions?
Sounds like a loose cable to me, as they tend to stretch over time. Check out the video at 3:35 and see if removing some of the cable slack corrects the issue. 👍🏼
@@NC944er Thanks brother. I checked it out and it looks like all of the slack is all take up, unless I did it the wrong way, the cable is almost to the jam nut?
@@free-birdrocker8809 Are you saying that the outside jam nut is almost at the end of threaded cable section? If that’s the case, can you see that each part is moving as it should when the motor turns? Is the cable actually pulling on the central latch mechanism? I suppose it may be possible for the cable to stretch so far that it couldn’t be re-tightened within the proper limits and could use replacing. If the hatch opens with the key, you’ll know that the latches and connecting rods are all actuating correctly, so provided that the motor is turning all the way around, the only thing left would be the cable.
@@NC944er Yeuppers, the hatch opens with the key, the pins see to be ok, and the hatch clamps seem to be lined up, I noticed the motor spins like a helicopter when I press the button. Its odd? You reckon the cable?
@@free-birdrocker8809 No, that’s normal. The arm on the motor should make one full rotation all the way around. If not the cable, I wouldn’t be able to speculate further without inspecting the system first hand.
Do you have any idea why a hatch wouldn't open with the key but it will with the button? The key can turn freely but it just won't do anything. I have been plagued by this problem for ages 😥
The hatch lock cylinder (where you insert the key) is a separate part from the hatch lock lever (the hinged bracket that is most visible when you pull back the carpet liner). These two parts are not directly connected. When the lock is turned with the key, it should catch on a metal tab that’s bent inward as part of the lever system. Without seeing the mechanism on your car, my guess would be that the tab on the top of the lever is bent out of alignment or broken. If that’s the case, it would be possible for the motorized release to work, but the key not. I would start to dig in there, watch the movement of the key/latch inside, and see if it is properly contacting the tab on the lever.
It’s a little difficult to provide a clean answer on mine because a lot of my costs are associated with restoration while I’m catching up on deferred maintenance. For example, I spent around $1,600 replacing the entire break system when the old brakes where mostly functional, just really rusted and unsightly. Like anything, the more you drive these cars, the more money they will ask for. It’s not terrible if you can find one that’s well sorted and caught up already. There are a few big jobs that will set you back, like clutch and head gasket replacement, but aside from basic maintenance, the timing belt stands out on these, needing attention every couple years to the tune of $300-$1000 depending on DIY versus shop costs. Some folks will estimate around $1,000-$2,000 a year, but again it all depends on the timing of those big items and what’s already been cared for. Doing your own work is the best way to stay ahead.
@@NC944er Alright thank you, I’m looking at a Stock 86’ 944 Turbo with about 65k miles and I only plan on driving or during summer so it won’t be driven that much but 1-2k seems reasonable for a fun little Porsche xD
@@ItzBlunt Turbo costs can be a bit higher even for simple low cost items, because you have to remove so many other parts to get at the affected components. If you have the opportunity, I would recommend a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) by a qualified mechanic. It might cost $200, but then you’ll know if you’re good for awhile or looking at another $6,000 to get the car squared away.
@@ItzBlunt Also, not sure if you’ve been here yet, but it’s a great place to start to understand what to look for: www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/944_buyers_guide/944_buyers_guide.htm
Great video. I fixed my switch (missing internals) and nothing changed so I went to check voltage at the motor and some previous owner cut the cable and removed the motor. I swear every car I've ever owned had the same jackass previous owner by the looks of things. Edit: the sunroof motors/cables/latches were also missing and the roof plug was glued into the roof with rtv, silicone, and window weld. Some people shouldn't be allowed near cars.
Wow! Those are some wild ones. People do some weird things, maybe to save money. If you told that same person you planned to do a sunroof repair, replacing the gears, adjusting the motor/cables, and cleaning the drains, they’d probably think “you” were the weird one. 🤣
My car arrived on a trailer a few weeks ago, and I was about to pull it into my driveway, when I thought to clean the windshield with the washers. No dice. Opened the hood, and the washers were unplugged, hoses cut (stray pieces sitting in the battery well) and the reservoir, etc were gone.
@@jergervasi3331 my car had hood pins on it when I got it. My washer squirters also didn't work. The ding dong that installed the hood pins drilled the hole through the hood from the outside and the drill bit went right through the reservoir.
when operating the motorised release..............WHERE IS IT ??????????? people when you make videos assume we dont know everything.. the reason we are on this video is because we have issues opening the boot... if we knew where the damn release was we wouldnt need to ask.... showing us hitting a button is far less useful than telling us where the hell it is
If your car features a hatch release switch, it’ll be located on the inside carpeted wall of the driver’s footwell area, just in front of the hood release lever, but not all cars came with the motorized release system.
I have a 1983 944. This year does NOT have a electric release, only releases with the key. I am not sure when the electric latch was used but would guess in the 1985 when other major changes were made.@@NC944er
NC944er & Clarke's Garage have improved my life tremendously.
Clark Fletcher paved the way for a lot of us. I’ve created content here while referencing his garage shop manual and other technical sources with any new information I’ve found along the way.
I don't know how many thousands of dollars you've saved me, but it's much more than one! The videos are very detailed; and the videography is great! Without you I wouldn't have been able to replace my head gasket. My hatch wouldn't open properly,. My AOS seals would still leak. My horn wouldn't work. I wouldn't have know how to replace all the seals in the cam tower, or do the belts. You get the idea. I knew nothing about these cars a couple years ago. Last year, with the baseline confidence your vids have given me I was able to turbo swap my car, rebuilding both the top and bottom ends in the process. And... the damn thing runs! You have done a tremendous service for the community; and I am most grateful!
@@ch-lx2fl Based on the going Porsche Tech rate of $180/hour, I’d estimate at least $5,000 in savings. 😂 It sounds like your car has come a long way, very well done!
You should really appreciate the fact that when I look up a 944 repair topic on RUclips, I’m always DELIGHTED to see a relevant video with your name on it!
HA! I guess I do have a decent spectrum of repairs covered at this point. I like the idea of a “one stop shop” for all things 944, but I don’t think I’ll fully get there, at least the common things are presented well enough. I’m also less inclined to take the time to repeat repairs that are extensively covered in other people’s videos unless I can add new insight to the topic. Thanks for the feedback! 👍🏼
10/10. Wonderful job on this video. This is the archetypal example of the perfect RUclips tutorial. Thanks much for your efforts to document this for the rest of us!
Wait!? So I shouldn’t add in some inaccurate information, shaky camerawork, bad jokes, unrelated ramblings, and annoying music? 🤣
Jokes aside, thanks for the feedback. End-to-end, this one took about 8 times longer than the actual work itself would have. They generally all have the same issues eventually, so hopefully it helps some folks. 👍🏼
@@NC944er I believe you, James! I’ve shot some footage as I’ve worked on mine, since S2 tutorials are few & far between, but haven’t had the time to edit a mile of footage down to a compact 5 minutes. Thanks for putting in that much effort for the rest of us. I’ll look forward to your next video!
One of THE BEST tutorials for this problem. Concise, well narrated with video support which doesn't ramble on and breaks the whole job into working parts and function. You've got me subscribed. I'll be watching more. Great job.
Thanks! This is actually one of my favorite videos because it set the tone for the approach used in most of my videos thereafter.
Fantastic video! Hands down the best one on RUclips. Going to watch the rest and great looking car👍
Great video. Well filmed, well narrated. Keep up the good work.
Thank you! 👍🏼
You're amazing. You're helping my fix issues with my car that I didn't even know existed lol
Seems our cars have lived similar lives...
Noticed a small plastic adjuster on the ball joint receiver on my 1985.5, it can be lengthened, which, after completed allows the hatch lock to move freely. The hatch lock was previously not closing all the way. The lock was no longer stuck in an open position; but since I bought a new part - I decided to install it and kept the original.
Every one of your videos is AWESOME thank you!
Nice tutorial. Methodical and thorough.
Once again awesome job
Your video helped me a lot. Gracias! My hatch is opening when I want, not when it wants. Cheers
Excellent, glad to hear it! 👍🏼
Waw man this is a very good video, very usefull thank you for that and keep going this is , again à very good content !
Thanks for this video helps so frickin much, great detail
I’d recommend running a tap through if you’re changing pins anyway. All sorts of crap came out of mine and of course they now thread in and out with hand force rather than locking pliers and a cloth
I needed this, tysm! 😊
Great detail and video of how components work together, it helped me fix my stuck right side latch. Thanks you for the time you put into this. Do you have a video on how to adjust the rear window so it lines up correctly in its frame ? mine is pressing on the top right part of frame and has significant gap on the top left side.
@@eliseoalvarez7371 Hey, are you saying that the rear glass is pulling away from the metal frame on one side, but the frame is well spaced across the adjoining roofline? If so, that is a common issue where the glass is delaminating from the frame. You’d be looking at a rebuild of the hatch glass with new adhesive or an entire hatch replacement to correct it.
@@NC944er Thanks for responding, the glass frame is pressing on the roofline on the right side but its also suffering from delamination.
This video is excellent. Thank you for the tips!
Thanks! I actually consider this my best video. 😂 I’ve tried to model subsequent content off the same format as people seem to like it - simple, informative, and to the point.
Great video I have the same issue. I hear the engine but not popping up. Thanks
Great video! Clear and concise, covering all of the adjustments. Unfortunately for me the screws on the housing are rusted solid and the rubber mounting holding the latch pin is stripped. Fun times ahead.
Oh man! I see power tools in your future. 🤣
Excellent tutorial.
Very good presentation and I learned from it. I have a strange problem with latch pin alignment. I have owned this car for 40 years and have replaced the decklid (rear hatch) struts/shocks several times as they wear out and the decklid will not stay open. This happened again and I ordered and installed two new shocks (OEM) from Pelican Parts. Easy to install but with the new shocks the decklid is very hard to open and close as if the shocks are too strong. BUT the major problem is the latch pins no longer are aligned with the pin receiver and I cannot completely close and lock the decklid. If I loosen on end of the shocks and just let them dangle in space the decklid pins are aligned with with the latch receiver and it closes and locks OK. With the new shocks attached the latch pins and receiver holes are off and the pin will not go into the receiver. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Yeah, so there’s a known issue with the 944 decklid design where the hatch struts apply constant rearward pressure on the glass. Over time, the adhesive the secures the glass to the metal frame along the top edge gives way and the glass begins to separate from the frame, often referred to as delamination. This can cause water leaks and alignment problems with the assembly. Some 944 owners opt not to replace the hatch struts with new units for this reason, and simply continue to use old struts or none at all so that they don’t end up having to replace the entire hatch. There’s also a DIY repair option to reseal the glass to the frame with new adhesive. I’d take a closer look at the top of the frame and see if this is the cause of your problem.
Thanks for making this one, very helpful. I have a 1983 and I have had the rear hatch open by itself while driving more often recently. When I check inside the hatch pin seats to see if both arms open and close, I only see one arm inside the black hatch pin seat 'box'. Not sure if maybe that is something unique to the early cars? This is a model without the motor to open the rear hatch, so twisting the key in the rear key lock seems to be the only way to open it. Wondering if it would make sense to replace these older hatch pin seat units with a later car model, which would have both of the arms? In the meantime, will see if I can adjust the metal rods which control the arms inside the seat boxes, and see if that makes any difference. The pin heads themselves don't seem to be too worn down, so I suspect the clamp arms inside the seat boxes are worn / can't hold them tight enough when going around corners or over bumps. Thanks again for the video.
No doubt, I’m glad it was helpful! I’m seeing that there are two different versions of the hatch pin receivers, one with the single locking arm and one with the double arms. Not sure if that’s and early versus late thing, but they appear to be interchangeable, as Ian of 944Online has all the part numbers listed under one product. They are about $150 apiece for the left and right latches individually. Check out part numbers 944-538-955-01 and 944-538-956-01.
@@NC944er amazing, thank you again! I may see if I can adjust the pins, or the single locking arms tighter within the existing units, and if not, it’ll be time for an upgrade. Appreciate it.
Very good video!
Love your videos so much!!! I just adjusted those studs in the rear and they finally fit snug, no more bouncing with the new deck lid struts I put in. But, my right stud sticks and doesn't release well, the left side pops right out. Any suggestions?
If both pins release fine with the key, but the right one sticks when operating the electronic release, it’s like the cable that needs tightening as shown in the video. Otherwise, ensure the pin release is fully opening on the right side. If not, you may need to adjust the plastic ball joint on the end of the connecting rod for that side.
@@NC944er, right pin sticks with the key. I'll try what you suggested. Thanks!
@@commonsense311 Interesting! Yeah, try to actuate the release using the key with the hatch open and inspect the movement and positioning of the latches on both sides. See if the left is opening wider than the right.
I just had an ah ha moment on mine. The hatch works fine with the key and if I hit the release button, both locks spread open the same as with the key.
What I realized though is that this method will never work unless you have OEM struts to pop the hatch “up” to clear the locks. When you use the key, you can hold it as long as you want to pull the hatch up.
With the motor, it’s only unlatched for a split second and if the hatch doesn’t move UP, it’s just going to snap back to locked.
Am I thinking about that correctly and is there any work around? I don’t really want to use OEM struts because of the tension on the glass.
Bob
@@bobd9868 Hey Bob! Yes, your assessment sounds correct. Mine currently has “old” OEM struts that hold the weight of the glass when raised, but don’t raise it under their own power, which I think is the sweet spot to avoid hatch glass delamination. I’ve replaced the rear hatch seal as well, and that has given it enough buffer for the motor to release the pins and lift the glass slightly. So if your hatch seal is really worn and compressed, maybe look at replacing it to solve your problem.
Thank you so much I believe I have fixed the hatch release mechanism. Your hatch springs up fast when you release yours. Are you using any type of special strut shock dampers or are they OEM 944 ones? I have to lift and assist my hatch up so maybe mine are weak, but would like to know which ones you have. Thank you 😃
Nice! My hatch struts are stock, but perhaps not as gassed out as yours. The struts actually cause a known issue where they apply backward pressure on the glass, which creates delamination along the upper seal and the hatch will eventually develop leaks. Some people opt to keep a set of older struts installed on the glass as they apply less pressure than a new set of struts.
@@NC944er and that makes total sense as I have heard issues on that and will keep that in mind. Thank you so much for your expertise and help 😃
ok, I'm still stumped on this one if you have any thoughts. I have new OEM/Stabilus struts now and this thing wants to open! plenty of lifting power. With the key, I can see that both jaws fully open the exact same amount on both sides. The driver side "pops" but I cannot (after trying dozens of times) get the pass side to do the same, I need to help it which defeats the purpose of the remote release anyway. All of the hardware is like new, zero rust. Is the adjustment to where it works in fractions? I've been working in 1/2 turns but cannot find that sweet spot. Is there anything else I can try?
Coming back to my comment below. Are OEM struts an instant frame/glass issue? I would really like to the remote release to work along with the hatch light on/off separate from the door. My current non OEM struts hold the hatch up just fine but there is ZERO pop up so it releases (rear seal is good). Just curious if I should leave well enough alone and just forget these two functions.
@@bobd9868 It depends on the existing condition of the hatch glass/frame and how the hatch has been used (or abused) in the past. The delamination process is hastened when the glass has been twisted in the frame while being closed with one hand or with uneven pressure on one side.
Thank you, very helpful
Hi-So it's really bugging me that such a cool feature on a 34 year old car like popping the hatch isn't functioning-so Thanks for another super video! My switch works, I can hear the activation but still need to use key to open. I checked the length of the pins and as you suggested, the LH side pin was shorter by almost 0.25" compared to the RH side. I lengthened the LH pin so that lengths same-and after cleaning off pins and receivers, the hatch opens via the switch now! Except...the left side now rattles and is almost .5" loose whereas the RH side is a good seal. Screwing in the LH pin again enough to seal hatch now get's me back to square one-hatch only opens with key! What am I missing? BTW I did zero adjustment at the lock/motor/activator arms
Yeah, it’s a pretty funky design with too many parts involved. 😂 That left side may very well have been shortened by someone previously attempting to resolve the rattle, which really should have been addressed another way. After you’ve properly adjusted the pin heights and hatch closure gaps, there are two things to check - 1. The hatch pin “seats” and 2. The main hatch seal itself. There should be a small rubber seat grommet inside each pin receiver that applies a little upward pressure on each pin to hold it steady. These tend to break down and need to be replaced, sometimes they crumble and wash out the drain tubes. If those are still in place and intact, check the main hatch seal for wear. If it is very dry/cracking or significantly compressed around that lower hatch lip (as in the rubber doesn’t bounce back into a round shape when the hatch is opened), it may be time to replace the hatch seal as well. A nice/new seal will also apply some upward pressure on the hatch to reduce rattling. Here are a couple links to check out…
944online.com/rear-hatch-receiver-lock-repair-kit.html
944online.com/rear-hatch-seal.html
Thanks very useful👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Your troubleshooting guide help me open my stuck hatch. Key won’t turn and thus won’t open. I may need new pin seats. I wanted to ask my driver door is stuck shut. Can’t open from inside or outside. Outside handle does not click when squeezed, just recedes into door handle. As the door won’t open I can’t remove the inside door card , not can I access the outside handle. Any suggestions ???
Oh man, that is a tough one. I haven’t experienced that yet, but have seen others mention it on forums. You may need to tear down your other door and study the latch to see how it works, then get creative with triggering the latch on the stuck door with a screwdriver.
Here is one solution I found, it may apply to your situation: forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/139127-my-door-wont-open-anymore.html
Any idea why it feels like when i close my hatch it is like slightly crooked and when it goes into the locks it like nudges it
And @NC44er I love the videos they help me find what’s wrong with mine lol
@@spencer2.032 Hey! Hard to say without seeing it firsthand. I would ensure all the parts are fully connected, properly aligned, and moving correctly. There are also small rubber “seats” that sit in the pin receivers, which can break down and become dislodged, so check that everything is clear to receive the pins when closing the hatch.
What is the part connected to the hatchpins? Mine are rusted and need to get new ones but idk the name of that part
I believe you’re referring to the hatch pin mounts, part number - 477827035
OEM - www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/477827035.htm?pn=477-827-035-OEM
Aftermarket - www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/477827035.htm?pn=477-827-035-M995
Who sell the plastic piece where the end of hatch cable connects to the electric hatch release? THX!!!
I’m afraid I’m not quite sure which part your referring to based on that description. If you can find it on the parts catalogue, you can search the part number and any number of vendors may offer it for sale.
What are your thoughts on hatch strut replacement? I've read concerns that this may worsen hatch delamination.
Yeah, I’ve seen similar mentions on quite a few occasions, with some people saying that the glass delaminated within days of installing new struts… which is why I’ve deliberately NOT replaced the ones on mine, they are probably at half strength right now.
Some people go without them altogether and just prop the hatch as needed, but I guess it depends on how often you use the cargo area. I’ve also seen people install some struts for the 87-96 Jeep Wrangler, StrongArm #4761, as they are similar sized and have the electrical connectors for the cargo light circuit, but have much less pressure to them.
There are other factors that may hasten the delamination in my opinion like putting uneven pressure on one side of the glass when closing the hatch, as this causes the glass to twist inside the aluminum frame. So I generally try to close mine with two hands placed over each of the hatch pins.
My hatch is haunted. I can open it up by a key and thats it. I push the button under the dash, and it just spins the little motor in the back by the hatch? Any suggestions?
Sounds like a loose cable to me, as they tend to stretch over time. Check out the video at 3:35 and see if removing some of the cable slack corrects the issue. 👍🏼
@@NC944er Thanks brother. I checked it out and it looks like all of the slack is all take up, unless I did it the wrong way, the cable is almost to the jam nut?
@@free-birdrocker8809 Are you saying that the outside jam nut is almost at the end of threaded cable section? If that’s the case, can you see that each part is moving as it should when the motor turns? Is the cable actually pulling on the central latch mechanism? I suppose it may be possible for the cable to stretch so far that it couldn’t be re-tightened within the proper limits and could use replacing. If the hatch opens with the key, you’ll know that the latches and connecting rods are all actuating correctly, so provided that the motor is turning all the way around, the only thing left would be the cable.
@@NC944er Yeuppers, the hatch opens with the key, the pins see to be ok, and the hatch clamps seem to be lined up, I noticed the motor spins like a helicopter when I press the button. Its odd? You reckon the cable?
@@free-birdrocker8809 No, that’s normal. The arm on the motor should make one full rotation all the way around. If not the cable, I wouldn’t be able to speculate further without inspecting the system first hand.
Do you have any idea why a hatch wouldn't open with the key but it will with the button? The key can turn freely but it just won't do anything. I have been plagued by this problem for ages 😥
The hatch lock cylinder (where you insert the key) is a separate part from the hatch lock lever (the hinged bracket that is most visible when you pull back the carpet liner). These two parts are not directly connected. When the lock is turned with the key, it should catch on a metal tab that’s bent inward as part of the lever system. Without seeing the mechanism on your car, my guess would be that the tab on the top of the lever is bent out of alignment or broken. If that’s the case, it would be possible for the motorized release to work, but the key not. I would start to dig in there, watch the movement of the key/latch inside, and see if it is properly contacting the tab on the lever.
Excellent Thanks
Brilliant
Muy buen video.
Gracias Juan, espero haberte ayudado!
What's the yearly maintenance cost on a 944 like yours?
It’s a little difficult to provide a clean answer on mine because a lot of my costs are associated with restoration while I’m catching up on deferred maintenance. For example, I spent around $1,600 replacing the entire break system when the old brakes where mostly functional, just really rusted and unsightly.
Like anything, the more you drive these cars, the more money they will ask for. It’s not terrible if you can find one that’s well sorted and caught up already. There are a few big jobs that will set you back, like clutch and head gasket replacement, but aside from basic maintenance, the timing belt stands out on these, needing attention every couple years to the tune of $300-$1000 depending on DIY versus shop costs.
Some folks will estimate around $1,000-$2,000 a year, but again it all depends on the timing of those big items and what’s already been cared for. Doing your own work is the best way to stay ahead.
@@NC944er Alright thank you, I’m looking at a Stock 86’ 944 Turbo with about 65k miles and I only plan on driving or during summer so it won’t be driven that much but 1-2k seems reasonable for a fun little Porsche xD
@@ItzBlunt Turbo costs can be a bit higher even for simple low cost items, because you have to remove so many other parts to get at the affected components.
If you have the opportunity, I would recommend a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) by a qualified mechanic. It might cost $200, but then you’ll know if you’re good for awhile or looking at another $6,000 to get the car squared away.
@@ItzBlunt Also, not sure if you’ve been here yet, but it’s a great place to start to understand what to look for:
www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/944_buyers_guide/944_buyers_guide.htm
@@NC944er Higley appreciate the info thanks man 😊
Great video. I fixed my switch (missing internals) and nothing changed so I went to check voltage at the motor and some previous owner cut the cable and removed the motor. I swear every car I've ever owned had the same jackass previous owner by the looks of things.
Edit: the sunroof motors/cables/latches were also missing and the roof plug was glued into the roof with rtv, silicone, and window weld. Some people shouldn't be allowed near cars.
Wow! Those are some wild ones. People do some weird things, maybe to save money. If you told that same person you planned to do a sunroof repair, replacing the gears, adjusting the motor/cables, and cleaning the drains, they’d probably think “you” were the weird one. 🤣
@@NC944er good point, lmao
My car arrived on a trailer a few weeks ago, and I was about to pull it into my driveway, when I thought to clean the windshield with the washers. No dice. Opened the hood, and the washers were unplugged, hoses cut (stray pieces sitting in the battery well) and the reservoir, etc were gone.
@@jergervasi3331 my car had hood pins on it when I got it. My washer squirters also didn't work. The ding dong that installed the hood pins drilled the hole through the hood from the outside and the drill bit went right through the reservoir.
@@dirtyricenova7503 OUCH! (BTW, I’ve seen guys install subwoofer box mounts and drill into gas tanks… good times, indeed!)
Also-if you liked the Volvo 122S vid-here's another fun one of a rare BMW
ruclips.net/video/L11Jrc9eHQE/видео.html
when operating the motorised release..............WHERE IS IT ??????????? people when you make videos assume we dont know everything.. the reason we are on this video is because we have issues opening the boot... if we knew where the damn release was we wouldnt need to ask.... showing us hitting a button is far less useful than telling us where the hell it is
If your car features a hatch release switch, it’ll be located on the inside carpeted wall of the driver’s footwell area, just in front of the hood release lever, but not all cars came with the motorized release system.
I have a 1983 944. This year does NOT have a electric release, only releases with the key. I am not sure when the electric latch was used but would guess in the 1985 when other major changes were made.@@NC944er