Knitting a Victorian Shetland Lace Scarf Pattern (in 2020) - A 144-year old Mystery Scarf

Pattern now available on Ravelry! ravel.me/shetl...
The Victorian Shetland Lace Shawl, or Wedding Ring Shawl, is an iconic part of knitting lore. The more practical scarf, less so.
The Victorian and Edwardian era(s) have seen a surge of popularity on costube recently. While everyone else is sewing corsets and combinations, I've been knitting a scarf. The Victorian Shawl is fairly well known, in both knitted and woven varieties, but scarves seem a more practical garment, meant for both prestige and warmth.
I found myself wandering through the Richard Rutt Collection on the University of Southampton's knitting archive. I found myself intrigued by a scarf pattern in a book attributed only to "A Lady".
Could this be a pirated or missing Frances Lambert or Jane Gaugain pattern? Or could this be a traditional pattern contributed by a local knitter?
I picked up my Addi Turbo needles and a skein of silk/wool blend, and determined to find out for myself.
Along the way, I found myself wondering...just who is this scarf meant for? And what does knitting have to do with Gilbert and Sullivan, and Courtney Love? The answer might surprise you!
Bibiliography:
Lovick, Elizabeth. The Same, but Different: Shetland Lace in a European Context. KBTH Lace Virtual Conference, March 2006
www.knittingbey...
Lady, A. The Home Knitter: A Manual For Making Useful Articles for the Family. Edinburgh: Johnstone, Hunter, & Co, 1876
archive.org/de...
Sowerby, Jane and Alexis Xenakis (Photographer). Victorian Lace Today. USA: XRX Inc, 2006.
www.amazon.ca/...
“The Richard Rutt Collection.” In the Loop - Knitting Collections, University of Southampton
www.southampto...
Sources for tracking pattern authorship & notes on IP piracy in the arts:
Sowerby, Jane and Alexis Xenakis (Photographer). Victorian Lace Today. USA: XRX Inc, 2006.
Knitting terms developed by Jane Gaugain: Page 15
Diamond Border Pattern by Jane Gaugain: Page 37
Piracy of Frances Lambert's intellectual property: Page 41
www.amazon.ca/...
Gilbert & Sullivan IP piracy (via Wikipedia page linked below)
Rosen, Zvi S. The Twilight of the Opera Pirates: A Prehistory of the Right of Public Performance for Musical Compositions. Cardozo Arts & Entertainment Law Journal, Vol. 24, 2007, accessed 21 May 2007. See also Prestige, Colin. "D'Oyly Carte and the Pirates", a paper presented at the International Conference of G&S held at the University of Kansas, May 1970
en.wikipedia.o...
Love, Courtney, “Courtney Love does the math.” Salon. June 14, 2000. www.salon.com/...
Misc Image Sources:
Kendrick, C. - www.loc.gov/pi..., Public Domain, commons.wikime...
Andrea Fleming - Courtney Love, CC BY 2.0, commons.wikime...
Sidney Paget (died 1908) - www.artintheblo..., Public Domain, commons.wikime...
David Shankbone - flickr, CC BY 2.0, commons.wikime...
NASA/JPL-Caltech - NASA, Public Domain, commons.wikime...
Music:
Butterflies in Love - Sir Cubworth
C Major Prelude - Bach
Two of Us - Saidbysed
Sangria - Saidbysed
Dancing Star - Aakash Gandhi
Divine Life Society - Jesse Gallagher
Kiss the Sky - Aakash Gandhi
🎥 Socials and more:👇🏼
stringchronici...
#knitting #historic #shetland #scarf #pattern