Chuck, SO glad to see a video from you! As a former HVAC tech, I love the videos, as they keep me in tune with the industry, and "exercise" the HVAC part of my brain. I also absolutely loved the series you did building your mom's house. It turned out great. Hope to see more videos from you in the future.
Great to see this video! A far as the slim jaw adjustable wrenches go, Channellock has a 6" and 8", plus Amazon has a whole pile of slim-thin jaw adjustables from 6-10" that work perfect for changing out powerheads, not to mention many other plumbing jobs! Bummer, you had to fill with Nitrogen and pulling a vacuum when nothing entered that system while changing the head. But you are right, they would have been crying for your head otherwise. I was taught the same way you are showing your skills here. Nice to see a video from you. I know you have been around for longer than me, 28 years myself, but they do have HVAC adapter power cords with alligator clips now days to hook-up vacuum pumps and such to save time. Just a thought. You are definitely right about the Rheem's being a pain in the service valve spacing. Hope more videos from you are coming our way!
Great video! Always a good day when a video drops from you. Totally understand the life gets in the way part and I would imagine you have been burning the candle in 8 directions at once
Awesome video man thank you for making it Question if I may, I’d 8 o’clock the best position for the TXV bulb? Lastly what would our pressures and SH/SB look like with a loose TXV bulb? Thank you
It really depends on the size of the line. The main issue is that oil will always be in the bottom so you don’t want to clamp it at 6 o’clock. Larger lines usually put it lower (4-8) and smaller lines can be right on top. The TXV will normally open more if the bulb is warm, letting more refrigerant pass. So a loose TXV bulb will result in a lower superheat. (Assuming the space is warmer than the suction line) Thanks for watching!
No pizza today ? Living in the northeast I wouldn't say Tennessee has very good pizza comparatively but that volcano pizza has me considering I may be wrong.
I suppose there is no way to diagnose a faulty powerhead. You can submerge the bulb in warm and cold water to see if the TXV is functioning as a whole, but can't isolate just the powerhead as the problem. Also, how do you know which part # powerhead works with your specific TXV?
The sporlan powerheads are usually labeled with a KT-XX number. I think this one was a KT-45. The older R22 were usually KT-43. For residential AC that’s mainly all I’ve ever seen except for some weird water source heat pumps.
Yes. Hindsight is always 20/20 but replacing the entire TXV the first time would have definitely been quicker in this instance. However if the head would have worked, just replacing it would have been much faster. Working for myself as a one man show allows me to be flexible with both my time and my billings. This particular landlord gives me a lot of work and trusts my judgement. I did a video where I installed a piston in place of a txv in a very old Carrier for him back around 2015 or so. One commenter said I was wasting his money. It’s still running today. When it finally dies I hope do a new video and talk about how the new system would almost be out of warranty if we had replaced it back then lol. Thanks for watching!
Curtis, i don't even (WASTE MY TIME) with "TXV'S" anymore because they are (MADE TO FAIL)!! Wether it be the power head you tried to change, or the actual spring, or diaphragm that gives out, MFG's know that there is (NO WAY) a mechanical valve will live when working under loads and pressures of 300psi+ every time it runs.. I have seen them fail within 2yr of installation even! Heck, if you find one that is 10yr+ old, you got lucky! I cut them out, and slap a piston in them when they are brazed like that, the newer RHEEM/RUUD are "BOLT IN'S" so i just unbolt them and slap a piston in it.... They should (ALL) go to EEV's, that use stepper motors to control the secured pintle... I (HATE) TXV'S! Worst thing they ever cam eout with and only put one back in a "HAVE TO SITUATION"!
@@rj.parker Don't know where you live at, but i will pay you a visit sometime i need a break from reality! I see it (ALL) the time just like the one he had issues with... So do plenty of other techs daily! They (SUCK)!!!! You cannot expect rubber/silicone diaphragms, little springs, etc to work at 300psi+ day in and out and last. NOPE! Ain't happening! Like i said.. EEV's are the way to go due to the actuator being connected directly to the pintle itself, Sure you can have stepper motor issues, but those are cheap and simple enough in most circumstances.
The man, the myth, the legend is back!!! Show these young guns how it's done.
Chuck, SO glad to see a video from you! As a former HVAC tech, I love the videos, as they keep me in tune with the industry, and "exercise" the HVAC part of my brain. I also absolutely loved the series you did building your mom's house. It turned out great. Hope to see more videos from you in the future.
He’s back! You’ve been missed sir!
Welcome back, not many companies would do that it would be a complete evaporator replacement. 😂👍🏻🥃🥃🍺🍺🍺
Great to see this video! A far as the slim jaw adjustable wrenches go, Channellock has a 6" and 8", plus Amazon has a whole pile of slim-thin jaw adjustables from 6-10" that work perfect for changing out powerheads, not to mention many other plumbing jobs! Bummer, you had to fill with Nitrogen and pulling a vacuum when nothing entered that system while changing the head. But you are right, they would have been crying for your head otherwise. I was taught the same way you are showing your skills here. Nice to see a video from you. I know you have been around for longer than me, 28 years myself, but they do have HVAC adapter power cords with alligator clips now days to hook-up vacuum pumps and such to save time. Just a thought. You are definitely right about the Rheem's being a pain in the service valve spacing. Hope more videos from you are coming our way!
Great video! Always a good day when a video drops from you. Totally understand the life gets in the way part and I would imagine you have been burning the candle in 8 directions at once
Glad to see you’re back, hopefully more videos coming!!
Good to see you back! I was worried something was wrong.
It’s called a hot swap. Good seeing you.
Glad to see you back ! Missed your content . Thanks for posting
Wandered where you had been. Glad to see you’re still at it. Nice video
Good to see you back Chuck!
Very good to see you posting again!
I'm just so glad you're ok
Great to see you back.
So good to see you drop a video. keep them coming Chuck.
Glad to see you're back
plan A was the right way,i found a set of thin open ends,they work nice,thanks for posting.
Welcome back awesome job 👍👍👍
Great to see ya man!! 👍👍Nice work and explanation! Thanks.
Glad to see u back
Hot damn. Chucks back in town
Great real world videos 😊
Wow, you're back. Alright!
Channellock makes an Xtra Slim Jaw 6" adjustable wrench for these jobs. 6SWCB
Good video thanks 🙏
Awesome video man thank you for making it
Question if I may, I’d 8 o’clock the best position for the TXV bulb?
Lastly what would our pressures and SH/SB look like with a loose TXV bulb? Thank you
It really depends on the size of the line. The main issue is that oil will always be in the bottom so you don’t want to clamp it at 6 o’clock. Larger lines usually put it lower (4-8) and smaller lines can be right on top. The TXV will normally open more if the bulb is warm, letting more refrigerant pass. So a loose TXV bulb will result in a lower superheat. (Assuming the space is warmer than the suction line) Thanks for watching!
they have angle low loss fittings that work
No pizza today ? Living in the northeast I wouldn't say Tennessee has very good pizza comparatively but that volcano pizza has me considering I may be wrong.
I suppose there is no way to diagnose a faulty powerhead. You can submerge the bulb in warm and cold water to see if the TXV is functioning as a whole, but can't isolate just the powerhead as the problem. Also, how do you know which part # powerhead works with your specific TXV?
The sporlan powerheads are usually labeled with a KT-XX number. I think this one was a KT-45. The older R22 were usually KT-43. For residential AC that’s mainly all I’ve ever seen except for some weird water source heat pumps.
Would've been more cost effective for the customer and you to just charge the txv the first time? Depends on whether you've got more calls ahead...
Yes. Hindsight is always 20/20 but replacing the entire TXV the first time would have definitely been quicker in this instance. However if the head would have worked, just replacing it would have been much faster. Working for myself as a one man show allows me to be flexible with both my time and my billings. This particular landlord gives me a lot of work and trusts my judgement.
I did a video where I installed a piston in place of a txv in a very old Carrier for him back around 2015 or so. One commenter said I was wasting his money. It’s still running today. When it finally dies I hope do a new video and talk about how the new system would almost be out of warranty if we had replaced it back then lol. Thanks for watching!
It could’ve been the dryer clogged and had nothing to do with a TXV. Especially if suction drops the longer it runs.
TXV season is right brotha
I think there 1 1/8 I've even grind one down to fit... carry one in the bag just in case
😎👍
why you haven't been posting for 1 year
Life gets in the way sometimes lol. I recorded this last spring. Haven’t been able to edit til today.
I like simple,and a piston is the way to go
Curtis, i don't even (WASTE MY TIME) with "TXV'S" anymore because they are (MADE TO FAIL)!!
Wether it be the power head you tried to change, or the actual spring, or diaphragm that gives out, MFG's know that there is (NO WAY) a mechanical valve will live when working under loads and pressures of 300psi+ every time it runs.. I have seen them fail within 2yr of installation even! Heck, if you find one that is 10yr+ old, you got lucky!
I cut them out, and slap a piston in them when they are brazed like that, the newer RHEEM/RUUD are "BOLT IN'S" so i just unbolt them and slap a piston in it....
They should (ALL) go to EEV's, that use stepper motors to control the secured pintle... I (HATE) TXV'S! Worst thing they ever cam eout with and only put one back in a "HAVE TO SITUATION"!
Rarely see one go bad. Often they last the life of the unit.
@@rj.parker Don't know where you live at, but i will pay you a visit sometime i need a break from reality!
I see it (ALL) the time just like the one he had issues with... So do plenty of other techs daily!
They (SUCK)!!!! You cannot expect rubber/silicone diaphragms, little springs, etc to work at 300psi+ day in and out and last. NOPE! Ain't happening!
Like i said.. EEV's are the way to go due to the actuator being connected directly to the pintle itself, Sure you can have stepper motor issues, but those are cheap and simple enough in most circumstances.