Thanks for making a video that isn't so long or boring. Your video didnt make me want to slit my wrists like sooooo many other videos out there. Great job!
It would be far cheaper to source your own 2" rigid foam panels for the walls, install dricore floor panels to those, and then put traditional framing on top of the subfloor a half inch away from your rigid foam. Then fill the cavities with traditional fiberglass insulation and use green moisture resistant drywall. Nobody wants to work with systems like this when it comes to installing your mechanicals/electric/plumbing
Its a nice panel. But why is it so expensive? Its just a piece of foam glued to some kind of drywall board. Ok, R&D and stuff. I get that. Twice more expensive? OK. May be I get that too. But its like 5 times more expensive than doing it with just studs, rigid foam and drywall.
These aren't as easy as the video makes them out to be. The concept is simple. The practice is vastly different with the materials I got anyway. They don't easily slip into the groove. I needed a hammer to bang them in. I used a hackzall to cut them. I'd be here 3 months with a hand saw. Bottom line. It's a cool system when you get past the learning curve, but if it were me, for the cost of this, I would have just just with drywall. It doesn't save that much time unless your ceilings are at 8'. Most basements where I live they're well under.7'. I'd give it a 6 if I had to rate it.
So the only thing holding up the whole wall are the 2x2's at the top and bottom? No screws along the vertical joints? So what happens if someone leans on the wall and causes a little bowing, wont the seams crack without any studs behind it to support?
Compressive strength is easy to achieve and stiffness is proportional to thickness^3. Even weak materials like a block of styrofoam can easily handle the weight of a person stomping on it as long as it's thick enough and the weight is spread out by a wood panel
Looks like this maintains a .5in gap behind the panels. Which is a code violation as it makes a chimney, as such all chinmneys have to be filled. Even if there fire rated, the majority of inspectors won't care. Every inspector I have had wants chimneys sealed regardless of a poured or block wall. May be a good point to mention in the video
I actually like an idea of having a gap between the wall and panels. It is a perfect moisture and heat barrier. My wall has a very tiny leak and I dont want water to touch insulation. Those inspectors with their old codes should go to hell. We build differently now but are still being forced to follow stupid codes developed centuries ago.
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Thanks for making a video that isn't so long or boring. Your video didnt make me want to slit my wrists like sooooo many other videos out there. Great job!
If not using the dricore subfloor, would you need treated lumber at floor?
yeah.
is there an adhesive you can use between panels?
Cool product. I would suggest doing your fire blocking up too before putting the panels up…
So this replaces drywall plus insulation? All in one option vs insulation, framing and drywall? How does the raw material price vs drywall?
It would be far cheaper to source your own 2" rigid foam panels for the walls, install dricore floor panels to those, and then put traditional framing on top of the subfloor a half inch away from your rigid foam. Then fill the cavities with traditional fiberglass insulation and use green moisture resistant drywall. Nobody wants to work with systems like this when it comes to installing your mechanicals/electric/plumbing
thats alot of patching on the walls since the panels are small also what about the ceiling?
So if you run wires through you can't put metal protection plates anywhere???
What if I have existing dry wall? Is it too late?
I have a cast iron pipe that runs along the perimeter in part of the basement. Can this be 9 inches from the wall?
william duque why not hide it with a removable cover, built out of something to match your trim? At some point the cast iron may need replacing.
What is the minimum gap required? My walls are straight & plumb.
Its a nice panel. But why is it so expensive? Its just a piece of foam glued to some kind of drywall board. Ok, R&D and stuff. I get that. Twice more expensive? OK. May be I get that too. But its like 5 times more expensive than doing it with just studs, rigid foam and drywall.
These aren't as easy as the video makes them out to be. The concept is simple. The practice is vastly different with the materials I got anyway. They don't easily slip into the groove. I needed a hammer to bang them in. I used a hackzall to cut them. I'd be here 3 months with a hand saw. Bottom line. It's a cool system when you get past the learning curve, but if it were me, for the cost of this, I would have just just with drywall. It doesn't save that much time unless your ceilings are at 8'. Most basements where I live they're well under.7'. I'd give it a 6 if I had to rate it.
Do I need to install subfloor before smartwall?
Can it be placed on screened compacted dirt
all walls should be placed on a subfloor if you are going to use one.
Can I place a firewall in the wall? Mountain a TV? I think, no. All that needs studs.
It is best to build a standard wall for any items that are heavy for the section.
So the only thing holding up the whole wall are the 2x2's at the top and bottom? No screws along the vertical joints? So what happens if someone leans on the wall and causes a little bowing, wont the seams crack without any studs behind it to support?
Compressive strength is easy to achieve and stiffness is proportional to thickness^3. Even weak materials like a block of styrofoam can easily handle the weight of a person stomping on it as long as it's thick enough and the weight is spread out by a wood panel
Looks like this maintains a .5in gap behind the panels. Which is a code violation as it makes a chimney, as such all chinmneys have to be filled. Even if there fire rated, the majority of inspectors won't care. Every inspector I have had wants chimneys sealed regardless of a poured or block wall. May be a good point to mention in the video
Can you just glue/bond it to the wall like some other products to avoid that?
I actually like an idea of having a gap between the wall and panels. It is a perfect moisture and heat barrier. My wall has a very tiny leak and I dont want water to touch insulation. Those inspectors with their old codes should go to hell. We build differently now but are still being forced to follow stupid codes developed centuries ago.
I think that gap is needed to let the wall breathe and avoid moisture buildup behind the foam.
$145/panel? Sorry but no.
Make it cheaper than buying insulation + building framing and buying drywall and then we are talking.
Great idea that takes much longer than studs, insulation and drywall. End product is not as strong, not as high in R and not as repairable. Never.