3D Printed Speakers Part 1: Breaking the $38,000 3D Printer ... Again?
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- 3D Printing speakers. Big ones. This is part 1, and I'm starting with the 3DPlatform 300 Series Workbench Pro... AND I BROKE IT. AGAIN.
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For a $38000 printer I am once again underwhelmed by its performance and engineering
For $38000 you really shouldn’t be buying an FDM printer... get an SLS printer instead. Much finer detail, don’t have to worry about bed adhesion or supports, faster printing, just a better technology.
Yes, the engineering is not there tbh, but basically Joel says so while carefully dancing around some agreement. haha Which is cool, you can conclude this by yourself.
Still trying to find out what components in this HULK make it worth that price tag.
I honestly think this printer could be built for maybe 4000 dollars at max and the rest is ehhh.... Well, please explain it to me?
you would have thought at that price tag, they would have moved on them the glass bed and glue.....?
@@3dPrintCreator sls not sla
The more I see this printer featured the less I think of the company that made it. It's a $38k PoS.
I know right! I run a 400x400x400 printer with a volcano hot end and I feel scaling that design up would be much better. That Ivan guy has actually made a printer this big and it knocks this on its ass in terms of quality
Agreed. I guess he should have got the $48,000 one. Joking of course.
There's been nothing good to say about this machine. Everything seems wrong with it. (Not to mention, again, that for $38K it shouldn't be running a $35 computer as it's brains.)
The aluminum extrusions are a joke.
That printer really doesnt seem to live up to its price tag. Big doesnt matter if the quality is awful.
That’s what she said.....
@@jim2386 PLA shrinks around 2% as it cools and if you don't prevent or relive that stress it will build up until something gives: build plate adhesion, part warping, cracking, delamination, etc. Heating the bed alone is not enough beyond a certain size. This is just the reality of a big print without a sufficiently heated chamber and annealing plan.
3D Platform seems to market their printers for discerning research and industrial applications; they didn't design them with unassuming hobbyists in mind.
@@aajpeter what is the use case for a printer like this then? Thin-walled parts that warp acceptably after they are removed from the bed? Genuinely curious what you can do with a printer like this if FDM restricts the ability to print big without major warping.
@@aajpeter Then for 38k you have an enclosure lol.
The first forty years of childhood are the most difficult in a man's life.
hahahahah
@Adon Smith No women tend to live longer so their difficulties go on a bit longer too
This seems like a good project to try on that new Creality belt printer. Especially given the size of the pieces.
I had thought about it but the pieces are bigger than the belt machine.
@@3DPrintingNerd what are the dimensions of the main part you just printed?
@ 3d Printing nerd
So i recently purchased a Anet A10 3d printer, mine is different to the one available with a blue touch screen instead of an orange with black.
But either way, i cannot find a slicing software that has the printer preloaded as one of their listed printers, neither do i know how to write or correct a Code for it to print
Please can anyone help me, i could really use it 😕, especially you Mr 3D Nerd
@@insanelamaa use cura as slicer software, load in .stl files and slice them and .gcode files will come out
Maybe print like 3cm layers of the model and superglue?
Anyone else thinking, the Speaker will look like one of the tentacles from _Day of the Tentacle?_
They also had some good looking speakers!
First thing I saw was the purple tentacle.. 😅
Yes! Purple tentacle!!!
Crikey! I was going to try and print this in stages but now I know that I'd never be able to sleep with the potential "Tentacle" in my house.
I suppose I could put a sand box next to it, though. That way, it might not have to wander around the house looking for a place to, well, you know what!
That game really freaked me out when I was a kid....
Larger objects exert more peel force so try larger brims?
When I'm printing delta effector fisheyes/assemblies in PETG I normally use 25mm brims and they're way smaller than that speaker base. :)
Props to Simon for the design as it looks phenomenal!
Biggest problems I had with my Sigmax and Ultimakers were with the glass bed. No matter what I used, there was always the worry of PLA prints detaching, more so on the Sigmax because of the bed size. In the end, I retrofitted PEI sheet to the Ultimakers and printbite sheet to the Sigmax which took 80% of failures away straight off the bat. The Sigmax still needed extra help with magigoo or 3dgloop, but that was more to do with the crappy bed heating system causing warping. So, TLDR, have you thought of adding some PEI sheets to the glass? Great video, looking forward to the next parts 👍
Hey Joel, Great job dude! I feel kinda guilty my design is proving to be such a challenge!
I wonder what temp the bed was under the print when actively heated. Obviously the part insulates the bed pretty well so must be higher than the set temp.
he soulda printed it upside down with tree supports, smaller surface area, less bendy bendy
I would have thought a super tall delta would be more suitable for printing it.
Way to go on the design Simon and thanks for the shoutout Joel. Looking forward to the next installment!
To be fair, an enclosure with some heat would solve all of these issues. It isn't even that hard or expensive to add.
@@6moon.s casual cura shit, what?... is there suppose to be pro cura? upside down works better cuz theres less surface area contacting the fucking plate. i bet you post shit on r/fixmyprint asking shitty braindead questions like how do i level my bed,.etc
Joel, breaker of expensive 3D printers. :D
It's my gift.
For the prototyping job I was doing, I took an Ender 5 Plus and modified it to print fast and large. Super volcano is a must have. One of the biggest things I learned is that the Hemera is somewhat ill suited for the job. It doesn't dissipate enough heat from the combination of the hot end heat and the stresses we put the motor through and the heat break is somewhat fragile (when printing such thick lines that can sometimes blob up and grab the nozzle) and breaks exactly like how yours broke. Then later I redesigned it to use the classic E3D V6 because we can use the titanium heat break for additional durability and rigidity. We also set it up so it's a bowden setup similar to the original Ender 5 plus, only it's using a Bondtech for extrusion power. Having the Bondtech anchored to the frame pulling the filament up into the bowden where it feeds into the extruder came with the benefit of being able to use 25k spools right off the spool since the direct drive system actually had the issue that it lifted the gantry (and sometimes the whole machine) and caused gaps in the print with anything more than 10k due to the newtonian physics of the mass being at rest and wanting to stay at rest. We can use up to a 1.4 mm nozzle, but we get better results with 1.0 or 1.2mm nozzles.
Some tips for the warping issue:
*It definitely helps to have an enclosure for ambient temperature. Would probably help to have a heater blowing inside the enclosure kind of like what you use on the peopoly resin machines. Draftyness was our number one source of failures when we were starting out.
*Enclosure systems can sometimes cause issues with the cold end getting too hot. I suspect a water cooled cold end system would actually be ideal, but we haven't invested the budget into testing an option like that.
*Lower volume tends to warp less. Either through reduced speed or thinner layer lines.
*Brims definitely help and don't be afraid to make them oversized. Something I thought of but haven't tried yet is to make the brim layers more than one layer for additional rigidity, but that would also make the brim removal more difficult. Hmm... Maybe I should suggest my boss get a sawsall for our printer farm.
*I haven't used Magigoo, but Matterhacker's Stick Stick is great. Makes it harder to release when done printing unfortunately. Only lost chunks of the glass bed twice (so far) with a couple hundred prints. For some of our prints, I've actually seen the glass bed bend up because of the forces the model places on it while warping.
For context: we're printing mostly in PETG which tends to warp slightly more than PLA and the higher temperatures required present additional issues.
Thank you for the tips!
I learned it's actually cheaper to buy decent speakers. Thank you!
In some ways you are right. It is easy to underestimate the level of design that goes in to a good speaker. A beginner can easily spend $500 on parts and end up with something no better than a $500 off the shelf product. An experienced designer can turn $500 of parts in to a $5000 equivalent speaker.
@@Audio_Simon Don't get me wrong. All respect to you for making this design. It loot awesome and I assume if printed right it probably works really well. This was partially a knock on the giant printer... and it's price.
Quinn of Snazzy Labs has some custom speakers which look pretty good and sound (according to him) amazing, and even as DIY as they are they still cost several hundred dollars a piece (mostly from the drivers themselves). I think they have some 3D printed parts on them so maybe Joel could consider trying that design out.
@@fluffycritter Can you find some pictures? I'd be interested to see.
The parts for Joel's speakers are pretty nice too, thanks to Solen.ca
That printer seems to have huge issues with the bed adhesion and temperature. It seems tha the glass is too weak heat conductor to spread the temperature evenly on the bed. I'd test it by printing a part in which I'd be able to put a thermocouple to monitor the actual temperature under the printed object. That black mark at the centre of the bed suggests that the bed is scorching hot there.
I commented something similar to this. My thoughts were that maybe using a bunch of smaller mates creating zones to prevent hot spots. Your take on that idea?
To prevent cracking the bottom on big prints, let the bed and part cool down to ambient temperature when the print is finished.. The bed and the plastic have a different co-efficient of expansion and as it cools the part should release automagically.
That $38,000 printer is just FULL of jarring surprises.
Dude, I never thought about how rough it would be to do printing in such a large format in such a cold place
Nice work, Joel! You have an exceedingly large amount of patience and perseverance. I appreciate all those supplying equipment, supplies and designs fir you...and I hope they are paying attention. You are doing all the dirty work! Happy New Year to you and your family.
I was having a similar problem printing a Ukulele in my apartment (next to the windows). After the first few layers were done I hot glued the brim to the bed and then it printed without a problem (3rd attempt).
I would make a small shelter out of 1.5" 4ft x 8ft foam, reasonably priced and can stack up foam when not using.
i think i know the problem of the heatbed/lifting of the bed: the sensor of the heatbed is only in one position, a position where noting is printed ontop, this leads to quicker cooling everywhere but the printed part -> the bed heats more and the sensor is thinking that everithing is good.
BUT: the heat under the printed part raises up and up, way over what you want on the spot where the object sits
you could cover the rest of the open/uncovered bed under some insulation (sheet of foam?)
sry for bad english, i only want to help :(
Some tips from someone who runs a 4'x6' bed. No heat bed, spray super 77, we use a .65 first layer height for a .8 nozzle. To release print spray windex on glue around edges of part.
Super 77? Really? That works for this?
@@3DPrintingNerd yup, we spray 3-4in from surface with quick swipes so its shiny, then print on top of that, we dont even squish the bead, it lays it on top and still sticks well
Joel, We have had one of these printers for a few years now. You didn't say what temp your garage was but we run ours at 74 degrees room temp. We also use Aquanet on the bed. The prints stick most of the time and self release when cool. I would use a much larger brim in your case. And don't feel bad we have lost a few nozzles this way. We replaced the stock extruder with a super volcano hotend and a Bondtech extruder.
I do hope that this is a beta model of the printer - it seems to me like even just in this one video that you've uncovered a lot of opportunities for improvement:
-relocated filament runout sensors
-additional thermistors for monitoring the actual bed temperature
-additional/redesigned structural support for the print head gantry
-machine learning print failure detection (not unlike Spaghetti Detective)
-multiple independent bed heaters for more consistent temperature
for manual filament runout detection i use a brass bell with a piece of string attached loosely to the filament, the filament passes the last hard point, the bell falls, i either wait about 5 min so the filament touches my direct drive extruder, or swop the filament for a fresh spool/ next piece of leftover filament
I have been working on ideas for 3D printing speaker enclosures as well, but the biggest issue is making sure the prints are dense enough to control enclosure resonances. If I saw the thickness of yours clear enough, I have concerns the walls are not thick enough and will negatively affect the sound. Try knocking on the side of it and listen for "ringing" or a dull thud sound. I look forward to seeing how yours turn out.
You can "Weld" this filament! There are pliers available on Ebay, but just buy a pair of flat long nose cheap pliers and grind a groove that is 1.75, 2.85 or 3mm. All you have to do is to put the filament end to end, squish it together as you heat it up with a heat gun, small torch, etc. Then squish it together with the pliers to get it the exact diameter you need. You could connect all those ends together...
Use from Gernier Fructies the full control hairspray. It is like superglue to the glass bed. ABS,PLA,PETG and ASA are often so stuck on that only once the glass reaches temp below 20C it releases. So I put the piece into a freezer for 3-5min and it comes off without any warping and perfect condition and also does not damage the tempered glass.
Use some of that red Navy duct tape you got to hold down the brims
THERE WE GO
I'm curious to know if that would work.
This ALWAYS WORKS for me when I have issues with lifting. Before it can lift off. After its printed up about 2-3mm. Go get some liquid white Elmer's glue. And put huge globs of it all the way around the base of it. The heated bed will help it dry fast. And it will REALLY hold down the edges. It ways works for me. It holds super hard to the bed.
Elmer's glue? Like, the same stuff I used as a kid in school???
INTERESTING CHALLENGE. And perhaps you are attempting this for the challenge as much as for the final product, because, "Many things can be 3D printed, but not everything. And, everything that can, shouldn't." ~Swami, this may not be the best use case. Hopefully, all can agree that there are better ways to make a speaker. Also, sometimes the technology you have (and know) is the one you use. I acknowledge that there are a number of decision factors for a given situation.
That said, I do have some constructive input to try to help improve the model. So, with an eye on "design for manufacture" (specifically, knowing that the technology used will be 3D printing), I will suggest a couple possible design mods to address the peeling issue:
- Create a pattern of "troughs" on the bottom surface that interfaces with the bed (use 45º angled walls that come to a point at the top, while also creating a thin, flat "run" on the bottom, so no bridging will occur, and no supports will be necessary - I'd supply a pic for clarification, but that's not supported in RUclips comments, though I guess I can create a link; will do, if necessary). The idea is to minimize the large, continuous surface area of the bottom. BTW, I have not tried this, but am just going of principles. I've experienced this problem with peeling up, even with PLA, and it is definitely an unwanted challenge:(
- Another idea is to put thin discs strategically along the perimeter (where peeling occurs, +/or where prone to occur) - then cut off in post. This should be more effective than a brim, albeit w/ a bit more effort in post, but hey, that might be the tradeoff for success!
Anyhow, whatever you decide, WISHING YOU SUCCESS!:)...
I always found the more flat surface area a print has the better it sticks. You don't think so? Happy to see a picture if you link it.
@@Audio_Simon The issue is peeling, which can result from large surface area in contact with the bed. I believe this is due to differential cooling, and contraction of the plastic. These are due to the geometry, and the material, respectively. And, as noted, this suggestion is made "going on principal", but needs to be tested... I could be right, or completely wrong! :D
Also, "more" flat surface area is not needed, but "just enough" :)
Just sharing my experience, although you are the expert here... When printing with PLA, I found out that higher bed temp above 60deg actually results in crazy curling. My theory is - the PLA gets hot and flexible - actually making lifting easier - especially on glass beds.
Glue stick 🏒 and glass have always been a great combo for me. I even tried vision minors nano polymer and it worked for pla but not polycarb, so cleaned the glass and back to the old glue stick I went and like magic ✨😅✨ it worked
Absolutely love your channel for the great things you do (and the great jokes you tell)! I bought a Prusa MK3S off of many opinions from the web, you being one of the main sources! I love it and haven’t looked back to my buggy Tevo Tarantula since. Thanks for being so real and straightforward. Keep up the great work and high five!
How does it manage to produce that much ringing while printing that slow?
I was having curling issues like crazy on my larger prints on my CR-10 v2 and I solved it by making the brim larger proportional to the print. I always did a brim of 2-4 lines but I never gave it any thought to increase it as my print increase.
No matter what, the air around the print will cool the outside of the print faster than the inside, as you really saw on that print. The only way to fight this is by magic goo or probably, just a larger brim. And make sure that brim layer is on the thinner side, so adhesion is max.
I had a 15 line brim on this one. What should I try next?
Makes me think of Day of the Tentacle DOS game... (it is safe to Google)
DOT was the first game I got as a gift. Spent hours to finish it on my 286 - I still have the original box
@@asicdathens my parents got it on one of the piles "free" CDs you used to get when buying a new PC some time in the 90s from Time Computers in the UK xD
I know it might not be conducive to taking a time lapse but a draft tower is designed for this exact situation. It holds heat, off the build plate, around the part to keep it from cooling and popping off.
actually a raft might do a better job? if only someone had a machine to test..... ;)
ooh a draft shield, that is a fun idea!
Hexibass has a nice 3d printed subwoofer.
I find that Walmart's Equate hairspray (heavy duty hold or whatever they call it) works WAY better than Magigoo for large scale build plates. Application best practices: apply the hairspray when the bed is HOT and allow to cool, then apply a new layer *while cold,* bring up to printing temp and GO! Allow print to cool after printing and the hairspray will release, more reliably than magicgoo, in my experience.
Raft?
Maybe Wham Bam can make you a custom flexible metal (with contact sheet) bed. Would be EXPENSIVE though.
was thinking the same some prints I've done that didn't want to stick did with a raft and came out great
I actually liked that honeycomb look of the fail-printed front.
Large spring steel print bed like BuildTak is the only way I see to fix the heat issue. The area under the print is essentially insulated and it would take along time for that area to cool off. Not to mention the differential of temperature on the glass.
I would suggest lowering the bed temp but adding some projected heat.
I live in Canada. Even in summer, sometimes if I leave a window open prints will fail like this. In a fit of lazy reluctance to build an enclosure, I set up an old halogen work light. All my heat problems went away.
Something this big, you could also try one of those parabolic heaters. Or 2 halogen lights on either side. Not too close. Just so that you can feel heat on the print.
With someone with experience printing large & tall, I'll let you in on a little secret:. Once you cover a large enough surface area on the bed, the heat has nowhere to go! The solution? Reduce bed temperature by 10 degrees after the 1st or 2nd layer. Not only will it not warp, it will lock the print into the grain of the bed. So it helps to have a broken in or lightly scoured bed.
Also, your slicer resolution is too low.
One thing that's helped me a lot with lifting is disabling the fan for the first 5 or so layers, not sure if you do that already
Delayed shutoff on sensor / use estimated time to run most of roll.
Yea, it really should know how far the out sensor is from the extruder. Though I haven't done that with my printer either, but I only lose a foot of filament every time.
Why does it cost so much?
I would also like to know this
Raw materials+assembly labor+delivery+ having someone come over and calibrate it when it’s delivered+profit margins
Wow so frustrating! Those are massive stresses from the differential cooling/contraction. Definitely need a heated build chamber, then you have 2 choices: anneal as you go - build chamber at like 75C - or build chamber at say 50C, and an immediate post-print anneal in a smaller chamber with just the part at 75C. Either way, you will have to give it hours to cool slowly, so lots of insulation.
I know that lift... I had a (much smaller) print going that was just 7h. It looked great... until I removed it and found out that it had lifted, and it too had alignment holes and didn't fit... so I had to do the print over. Now to wait for part 2.
I suggest putting up 2-3 halogen worklights above the printer to shine on the Pla/model. That would keep the last printed layer hotter and keep the model from cooling too fast.
For PLA I've used a painter's tape (just usual white good tape) + Erich Krausse PVA glue (stick). Worked very good usually. Maybe for such projects you need that. Or check your build plate heating consistency. I think it may be an issue there.
You should get a FilaPrint surface
I actually would try lower temp on bed in combination with some kind of adhesive solution on the bed. Thx Joel for all the entertaining content you push out! Merry Christmas!
I'll sure give it a shot!
Ok, so I am far from a 3D print expert, but is it possible to weld the end of one role of filament to the start of another? I don't know how to implement this, but I have seen industrial braiding machines tie the end of one bobbin of string to the start of another.
I'm thinking buildtak or PEI or other surface to help maintain the adhesion. And as others suggested also add a very large multi-layer skirt - that's my favorite weapon against warping or lifting.
I print a ton of benchys just so I can break off the chimney. Very satisfying.
12:50 Things that I would change:
• I wouldn't make it ONE heated bed, but a set of tiles. Each can be set to a temperature. So you can heat (roughly) only heat the print ... and not the room the printer is in. Also you can monitor the temperature better. (several probe points)
I know everyone thinks glass beds are the hot shit. And I understand why. They are the flattest, but I think a spring steel one with a coating (like on the Ender 3) might be better. It holds on like crazy but also releases well when/if flexed.
• I also would put the runout sensor closer to the head. ... it is a large assembly anyway, so I think it wouldn't hurt to have it on there instead.
• On top I would use the load cell detection Creality came up with. (I think that thing is genius in ways no one even realised*²)
Not only it could scan the bed geometry (and hence do away with the need for flatness only glass seem to be able to achieve), but also such a load cell could detect (when it prints) if there's a layer below it*, and it could detect unexpected forces on the nozzle and stop the print before something expensive fails. I say could, cause no one has done the software side of that ... *yet.*
* =And stop the print if there should but isn't. (aka print lifted off)
*² = One example: I also think a similar setup should be installed in CNC machines. If a CNC machine can feel the forces on the tool, then it could slow down or stop before the tool fails.
For a machine this size and cost other manufacturers ditched the heated bed and went with a perforated vacuum bed. At the end of the day though printing giant size things is never easy, its better to have a design that has smaller sections that can bolt together, and maybe a one piece fascia that is wide but not thick and can cover the seams.
Joel, way to keep showing us the latest innovations in 3D printing (I'm not talking about the printer). Thanks. I can't wait to see and hear the finished speakers. It's really funny that at the close of 2020 that supersized printer has you using Magicgoo and a bush hack for the filament run out. For $38k, I would rather build 18 more RailCores :-) That printer is a p.o.s. - you are a patient man. (or at least well compensated ;-) Happy New Year!
What about a grill mat? 🤔 Just a thought...good luck buddy
I use my Mosaic Palette to re-splice my waste filament back together, by putting it into multi-spool mode and telling it to ‘start without printer.’ I recently recovered about 15 meters of PETG that way. It’s not the most convenient process but it’s a great way to avoid wasting a bunch.
I do that too but this is 2.85mm filament and the Mosaic stuff is only 1.75
@@3DPrintingNerd Ah, didn’t realize this machine used such thick filament. Well, that’s unfortunate.
Scotch dbl sided thin tape and a 3d pen can fully save lifting plates if you catch them early.
A shed seems like overkill. Maybe just a kind of tent, or a blanket fort type thing would do the trick.
Would love to see the STL on this when/if Simon releases them.
SIMON!!!!!
When I have a lifting problem I look for drafts moving past the part if that is not the problem the next thing I try is to use a Raft big enough so that the if the part starts to lift it does not affect the part along with some temp adjustment is needed but usually with a bit of futzing I can get most of my prints to stick so hang in there
Is there a reason not to put the filament sensor on top of the extruder motor, like a Prusa and others ?
You are kept very helpful share about subwoofer, it is also demantable post for who want to upgrade their old subwoofer. Thanks for the post.
To my knowledge, 3D printed parts should have pretty great insulative properties due to their interior lattice structure. I've obviously never printed that big before, but it comes as no surprise that the bed took way longer to cool off under the part than everywhere else. On the upside, it's a sign they weren't screwing around with their insulation on the underside.
It’s very well insulated from what I can tell
Personally, I think the manufacturer should take to heart what you've been finding out about this printer... ie. Move the filament runout sensor closer to the hot end and rethink the bed... for that price a magnetic system like the Wham Bam seems to be an answer... Just peel it up and flex it... no worries about glass breaking. Probably about the same cost as the glass once you deal with shipping of a fragile material.
Dumb question but why is the object your printing not clamped down to prevent the lift?
I would make a PVC Pipe cube and cover it in moving blankets if you really need simple and cheap insulated area. I do something similar with my smaller machines.
So the warping is probably due to tempature difference between the centre and the outer parts of the print. Perhaps there is a way to start the print on 4 legs going to the middle at 45° angle? Or something else that would lift the middle part from the bed to prevent heat buildup?
You need to try some floortex adhesive vinyl, i use it in my cr10 after discovering it in the signage industry.
It seems to me the biggest issue is the heated bed. Maybe try printing PLA with the bed turned off? It seems like the problem stems from the fact it uses one large heat mate. Maybe a good fix would be to use a bunch of small heat mates instead. Essential to zoning the heat bed to prevent hot spots. When the perimeter of the part is at 80c but internally the temp is at God knows what it's gonna warp and lift right? But I could be completely wrong here. Maybe the best fix is a heated chamber. Or maybe just using a pieces of foam to cover and insulate the unused sections of the bed.
I found that the hotter the bed the more adhesion you have. I had a failed print 3 times at 50 degrees Celsius and I moved to 100 and that sucker was really stuck in there. I would up the Heat and always print with a brim
I'd try a couple mm thick coating of PVA on the bed as that's always worked really well for me for a print surface when using PLA. A quick wipe down with with isopropyl alcohol before prints seems to give it a good grip, but allow it to release once the print has cooled. Not sure if that would peel off with the print in an instance like this though since the bed itself is glass.
Try reducing the nozzle temperature and use slower cooling so that there isn't a large change in temperature while you're printing.
mister dude, after 30-ish layers set the bed temp to 10C under glass trans temp, pause the print for an hour to cool, resume print. Cooled lower print will keep it stiff to resist bending and there will be no leftover heat concentration.
Increase brim distance and tape them down to the bed. That should help keep the print on the bed.
I used to have one of these in my last job, and I hated it soo much!! Need to go slow, always having problem with the direct drive, the glass bed warped so badly, nothing stucks to the glass even with hairs spay, blue tape, oil, nothhing... We had to print on the corners only... So bad because the idea of having a huge printer was awesome!
Can you move the filament sensor? Get some large rolls of kapton tape and cover that bed. You could see about getting stick on bed plates without the spring steel and covering the center. Also, are you adding any heat in your tarp room? I doubt that machine is putting out enough heat to heat the area. Adding an over head tarp would likely help a lot.
Hey Joel, I think you should try a ground glass build surface. Since it's such a large surface only glass will probably be flat enough, unless you can auto bed level. But I think ultimately you need a texture for the PLA to grab on to.
I've been wondering how to ground glass myself since I think that would make for the ultimate build surface, textured, generally flat, dense so there's good thermal mass but the only problem with glass is that it is smooth. I've considered using a compressed air tank to just fire sand at a sheet of glass to get the texture but haven't tried it yet. Maybe that's something you can try, though on a smaller scale first and maybe do a video on it to show me how to do it. 😁
Hi, Joel!
Why after the 1st fail you've didn't put a raft? Or at least a brim of two layers and with much more square? You have a lot of free space on the plate.
It's a bit painful to see a lot of filament wasted.
Is there such thing as a vacuum suction build plate? I have had my prints pop up off the build plate too and is super frustrating. Would not be economical for small printers but at the 38k price point youd think this could be something to implement.
I think that's a great idea. First layer goes down then vacuum is applied. There would need to be a way that areas not printed on are not just sucking in air.
@@Audio_Simon yes like something in the g code that only applies only to the build area
@@TheTelephonator There would need to be valves or something that section off areas of the build platform. Like a TV has array backlighting.
Sir
If print pop-up the bed only thing I try cool down the bed this work good for me this stop forthur pop up issue.
The plastic incontect with bed it's worm and soft. It's easy for worm and soft plastic to pop-up
If we turn off the bed temperature the plastic no more soft it's hard
And hard plastic mentaned it's shape and helping stop pop up issue
What about building a plywood structure around the thing and sticking a space heater (or two) in it to keep the area warm?
Awwwww. Well, it's - obviously - going to be a steep learning curve. But, we've got faith in you Joel!
Thanks man.
Do what everyone else does, build a insulated chamber and watercool the stepper motors. Solves a ton of issues for people that cold climates.
They need like a layout image of the bed and have multiple sensors to tell you what the bed temp is on different parts of the bed :)
Um, yes - one word - STL's!!!!!!! Thanks, Joel and Happy New Year!
@3dprintingnerd we also learned today that you are way to impatient for that giant printer... 😂
Can you print with a brim and lower your bed temp? I was having issues with curling on large prints and a brim and printing at 60 degrees worked great for me.
Hi =) I have a question, why don't you use draft shield for the first 5 or 10 cm to keep your print on the bed? It work on small printer with bad adhesion for petg so it's possibly an idea for you I think. It's an experimental cura option if you search ;).
Those speakers make me think of the Tentacles from Day of the Tentacle.
I've been working with two of 3DPlatform's Series 400 machines for two years now. Have had lot's of problems, most of the issues I've been able to solve, many were due to the FHA extruder.
Have you thought about adding a brim of hot glue to glue the base to the bed? I sometimes use on a large print to glue down. It glues at about 450f or about 280c and it works great. Has saved a lot of prints for me. I have an FT-5 clone that I built with a 500mmX500mmx500mm build volume.
50F or 10C that's not cold you live in a fairly warm part of the country. Try keeping a garage warm in New York in winter when temps are 18 to 23F (-7 to -3C) during day and -2 to 4F(-18 TO -15C) at night .
I have my printers in the basement, and I know our pain. The basement's ambient air temp is between 65-70F. To print PLA parts, I've had to put all my printers in enclosures. The small Wanhao Mini gets by fine with a box to capture the heat off the print head. The Ender 3 Pro is in an enclosed shelf, with a small electric space heater, to keep the temp up. (I also have to keep it warmer for PETG and ASA parts)
I would make a frame around the printer using PVC piping, then wrap the tarps around that, including the top. For that much space, a space small 1500W space heater should be enough to keep your temp around 75F.
And yeah, the printed part will help the bed retain heat in the spot it was sitting on. Time to find a two foot long spatula? ;)
two foot long spatula! :) I like the pvc pipe idea, I may try that.
Would the creality bed printer work for this? Or is it still too big
The CR-30? These pieces are too big for it.
I am baffled at the amount of issues this printer has.
I almost feel as though you NEED to use Octoprint with it, just to for the safety precautions.