Catastrophic Chop Saw Failure and Neglected Tool Repair Tips!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 1 ноя 2024
- Catastrophic Chop Saw Failure and Neglected Tool Repair Tips! In this video, I discover my 12" chop saw has suffered a catastrophic failure. I show you how I diagnose the problem, replaced the brushes and how to "seat" them if necessary. I also show you how I resurfaced the damaged part of the motor to save a little money and get some more life from the tool and i show you how to clean the commutator. I also discuss some tips and tricks on how to avoid this problem to begin with.
CHECK OUT THE TOOLS & GEAR I USE
🔴 www.amazon.com...
FOLLOW ME ON
⇨ Instagram: / lunddiybuilds
⇨ Facebook: / lunddiybuilds
Brandon, you are a GENIUS. Just by chance I said what if my craftsman table saw needs new bushings and guess who's video I pulled up looking to repair my 25 year old Craftsman. Excellent video and process. Also, my saw is just for home shop because of the age and issues. Thanks to you, I may get another 25 years from this old Friend. Thank you for sharing. Bless you.
I love this type of comment! There is no better feeling than knowing I helped someone maybe save a little money and keep a useful tool in service! Thank you! I'm glad I could help!
instaBlaster
Thank you so much. I hadn’t taken the extra step of cleaning the commutator and that seemed to be the secret sauce after replacing the brushes.
I’m grateful for your willingness to share and help others out.
Glad it helped! @Mountain of Strength LLC
You did well with the sanding with the drill. I would also like to recommend that anyone doing this, put rubbing alcohol on a paper towel and wipe the commutator down.
Added. "Using a 10-32 machine screw rub it in the channel of the brushes. The screw will act as a file.
Thanks man and good tip on the alcohol and wiping out the brush holder. I tried spraying contact cleaner in there years ago and it shot out a fireball as soon as I squeezed the trigger. I am now aware that stuff is flammable
@@BrandonLund So is rubbing alcohol, white orange flames. The difference is that just blowing on it after wiping down the alcohol will evaporate quickly.
What's about Thinner
@@kehindeoluwatosinchanges4605 Paint thinner or Acetone will soften or melt certain plastics. A commutator is a circuit that has an insulator made of melamine and epoxy or a similar product. Acetone is chemically similar to trichloroethylene. I've used it to remove by softening epoxy and silicone on RF circuit boards prior to component replacement.
@@timthomas9105 Thanks so much Maestro for your insights, My chopsaw is back to life real time. 😍😍😍😍😍✌️✌️✌️✌️✌️
Excellent repair video!! I am going to save $400 by replacing the brushes rather than replacing the whole bloody saw (DW708). A failure mode analysis website indicates that brush failure is 67% of the failure reasons.
Thank you and I'm glad I was able to help! Now you can take that $400 you saved and spend half that on more tools....everyone wins! ;) Thanks for watching Kevin!
Kevin, if you use the bevel scale on your saw, check it for accuracy, mine was 2 degrees off! Dewalt uses rivets to hold the scale and it can move around.
Great video! Thanks for posting this.
You bet!
all the extra work you did, is good info' for us, because we don't live in a perfect world. we live in the world of reality. thanks.
Very well said @daibhi seaghdha
Thanks so much Bosss. My chopsaw is sparkling real hard. I'll put this into test
Anytime man I'm glad I can help. Mine was pretty far gone and it works just as good as a brand new one still to this day. It's a solid repair :) You shouldnt have any problems.
Thanks bro, I did cleaning of spring and my saw is working fine now.
Awesome man! Congratulations!
Excellent video. Thank you for the info
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent information!
Thanks for watching!
how often/long have you been using this saw? got 250+hours on a 12amp angle grinder and theyre hard hours, i check the brushes once or twice a year and they havent worn 1/3 yet still running original ones
also nice trick with the armature in the drill chuck
+Andrew Browner I've used this saw hard everyday for 5 years, which much of that was production work, until I retired it. I think if you keep an eye on your brushes and replace them when you see signs of wear, you will be all set. I waited WAY too long and never checked them.
Andrew Brownero
thank you, great tips.i use/abuse 4 inche angle grinders in my job .I've changed many brushes but never ever sanded down the comutators and they looked quite worn.i 'll plan on trying the sand paper trick in the future.what saw did you replace your retired saw with,upgraded perhaps to what make and model?
rotoclip Same manufacturer. I have had excellent results with their chop saws, however, i personally have not had great luck in commercial enviroments with their other tools such as their reciprocating saws and drills. Based on my own experiences, I personally wouldn't own anything else other than a dewalt chop saw for production work. This saw has seen everyday production use, been used in the rain, fell out of a pickup. It's proven itself to me as far as I'm concerned. Here's a quick tip whenever you change your brushes or do an inspection, with the tool unplugged, stick a pencil that has the pink eraser through the brush holder and spin the arbor of the tool. This will clean your comutator. Your eraser will come out black. Give it a quick rub on your jeans to clean the eraser and do it again. Keep repeating until your eraser is no longer dirty. In my opinion, only sand the commutator as a last resort if it has deep scores. Thanks for watching and glad I could help brother!
A recent subscriber.....but I know now to also look out for a bad/crappy, blackened comutator. Thanks man I learned something 👍🏻
-Pidge
+PiDGE IAM Thanks for the sub buddy and I'm glad I could help!
You're lucky you didn't wreck the armature. I picked up a free Dewalt Circular saw the guy said there was a bad bearing. Got it home and the brushes were completely gone to the springs and had destroyed the commutator when one of them caught a bar. I was still able to use the gear assembly behind the blade for another saw (B&D Super Sawcat) that the bearing had been cracked right from the factory when new, so it wasn't a complete waste of my time. Whenever the brushes start sparking, they need to be looked at immediately to prevent other damage to the motor assembly. Brushes are inexpensive.
Excellent advise! For me it seemed intimidating to mess around with them. Knowing what I know now, at the first sign of trouble I change them out. It's too easy not to.
I have the same saw, mine is just a type 5, don't know the differences.. anyways, I got new brushes, expecting the old ones to be bad because there is an excessive amount of sparks in there and it is a bright orange or yellow flash that almost looks like a small fire ball. The thing is, it only happens when I release the trigger after running the saw for a few seconds. If I pull the trigger and just let off really fast, the sparks don't happen, and the brake doesn't slow the blade down, do you have an idea what would be causing this?
It sounds like what mine was doing. The new brushes corrected it
now you tell me unplug the saw . just kidding they use to make tool for altenter and starter rebuilding for the comutator but i havent seen one since 1972 good job .thanks 4 doing the video its nice to some one fixing somthing insted of throwing it away
Thanks James for watching. We live in a disposable society. I'm old school. I try to fix something and keep it as long as possible.
Thanks James! I try and use a tool for as long as possible before I discard it.
Great video, very informative!;
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it :)
Many thanks, just fixed mine....
Congratulations!
Ok so hopefully you will answer me!!😁
My saw was sparking a lot and it smelled burned ! Does that mean the brushes are done !? Or the commutator!? And can it be fixed!? Thanks for the video!!
It's hard saying without actually seeing the tool, but in my experience when the tool starts sparking in the brush area and it smells hot, it's usually the brushes that need replacing. This saw was sparking bad and now it runs great, so there is hope :)
Impressive
Thanks for the help man!
Glad I could help brother!
Hi, im looking in to dewalt tools from usa and 120v, you took it a apart, but i could not see if there is any diagram for rewiring this tool for 240v ? cause i beleave dewalt is not making or designing seperate motors, its just the same motor but different wiring, i wonder if the tool have the wiring diagram for 240v ?
There was not one under the cover and I do not have the original manual that came with the saw. I would not be surprised if the same motor was used for both voltages and then just wired differently.
Great job bud
Thank you very much!
Great video!
+jimpecoy Thanks buddy!
I did exactly what you do to the commutator and bruches of a old drill. But when I try it the bruches was making to mush spark and the commutator was black in 2 seconds, so I take it appart and clean it again. I'am waiting at a solution right now... Any idea of the problem?
From what your describing, it sounds like the brushes are not matching the contour of the communtator.
Could also mean he used to low grit sandpaper and the commutator isn't smooth enough and acts as a small file on the brush removing too much grapith and giving excessive sparks
Good job
Thanks! I appreciate your support!
I read my manual on a Makita 8.25 circular saw and it said after installing new brushes let saw run for 15 minutes with no load to help seat the brushes FWIW
Good tip!
@@BrandonLund this process could "sand and round "the commutator...... could not hurt to mark and remove brushes and blow out after 15 min cycle
Great video, but i have to be honest, 1000 grit is very intensive, red scotch bright or just the ruff off a sink sponge is just enough to clean moter because 1000 grit just lost another 5 years from the moter, original parts (brushes)cost very similar to non original, lastly don't sand the brushes to match moter dimensions let nature run its course 😉 adive from a person that fixes tools daily., still great to see free advice on money saving. It does take a real person to use and fix their own tools
The advise to contour match the brushes to the commutator comes directly from GE for industrial motor brush replacement (100 hp) Its done to give the brush full contact with the commutatator to prevent the brush from arcing which shortens the life of both. They use full 8x10 sheets to accomplish this. What I did here was just on a smaller scale.
Hi I have a performance mitre saw and I can't seem to get the motor out of its casing how can I do it
Did you ever figure it out ? I have DeWalt 703 . Like the one in the video. Same problem as you. Can't get the motor out of the casing. Any advice is much appreciated.
thanks for sharing
Your welcome! Thanks for watching!
Cheap brushes are usually soft. So they tend to wear down fast. It is a good idea to inspect brushes now and again. I'd say 15 years is good service.
Thanks Paul. Good to know. If they are softer, I'm thinking that could be a good thing. Less abrasive on the commutator. Lord knows this one can use it.
@@BrandonLund nicer brushes are laminated. When you look at them there's layers in them. It alternates harder and softer materials. So it is modern tech. Not as modern as brushless commutation though. Which we're still not seeing in corded tools. Might just be that electronics doesn't like the high voltage? Might be that manufacturers appreciate the fact that brushes wear out too though. A lot of folks would have tossed your saw. Which means more tool sales.
@@1pcfred True! I have found a lot of deals like this over the years. People throwing away perfectly fine tools over an inexpensive fix but I also hate seeing "good" tools get tossed for cheap replacements, so hopefully these videos can help some folks by keeping their "good" tools running a little longer plus keep a little extra cash in their pocket.
@@BrandonLund sometimes people just want to upgrade and will use any thin excuse. Sometimes they simply are not interested in investing the time. Or maybe an easy fix for you is not so easy for others to do. Electricity itself is a special case topic. There's a lot of fear and ignorance surrounding it. Electrophobia is real. There's reasons that can be used to rationalize a replacement.
@@1pcfred Good point
Thanks 👍🏻
You’re welcome 😊
You sanded the commutator heavily and therfore changed the profile of it and surprisingly the new brushes didn't match the adjusted profile you created. Who'da thunk it.
Watch it again… the reason I sanded it heavily was because the commutator was so worn that it was shaped like a banana. You act as though I did something wrong by trying to correct it. Seeing how the video is a few years old and I’m still using the saw I’d say I did a pretty good job of saving it even if it doesn’t meet your standards
@@BrandonLund I was simply explaining why you may have had issues with the new brushes ill fitting. They were being applied to asurface that had been alteredfrom factory. No criticism intended.
Somebody should report this guy to the SPCM.
Come on man it's not that bad! It's not like Ron Jeremy did the soundtrack.
I don't suppose someone here knows anything about fitting the field coil? Need to fit the new one but I can't work out how to attach the 2 wires with the round springs.
Looks like you cut concrete covered forms with that saw.
This saw has seen it all, ...including a fall out the back of a pickup.
Before replacing these brushes what issues were you facing
It was sparking out the brush area, it was low on power and it was making a weird sound while it was running.
@@BrandonLund mine is making a weird noise to begin with but then runs fine. That is until I lower the blade to cut a bit of wood. As soon as the blade touches the wood the blade stops spinning. I've checked the brushes and there is plenty of wear left in them yet. Not 100% sure what the issue is. I've tightened the blade. Perhaps it needs a shim? Or is the blade on too tight? I dont quite know? I've also checked the grease in gears which seem fine. I'm confused as to what the issue is. The blade itself is a Bosh and all the teeth are fine too.
George Haddad maybe you fixed it already but I’d inspect the belt in your saw real good too, might be wore out or slick in some spots, which can happen sometimes if you try and chop through something too fast or pushing there saw through something real dense too quickly. Worth a peek 👍
@@christophermiller2075 thanks for the tip. I've not used the saw for a while. But I did replace the bushes and it seems fine. But if it occurs again I will check the belt out. Many thanks 😊
Let Go Brandon
You know it! @aux1z11
Curtis saw says chop saw??? Is it same thing
Correct. Same thing.
Kya he
Brushes are made in China?
I don't remember but its possible.
Honestly, this could have been avoided if the brushes were checked every five years, or so. If you use this on a regular basis, you have to assume the consumables, such as brushes, are going to wear out. That’s why they’re easy to change - and cheap.
The brushes have to be formed to the curve of the commutator first. Eh, not the best way to do it, but I suppose better than nothing. The sandpaper isn’t following the shape of the commutator. The proper brushes are factory molded.
You got lucky though. I’ve seen motors destroyed by bad brushes.
I have no one to blame for this but myself, however the sandpaper tip is not anything I made up. It's actually quite common on large industrial motors. Profiling the brush to the commutator (even though they are profiled from the factory) is often standard procedure. Especially if the commutator has been turned down in size. Matching the brush to the profile of the commutator extends the life of the components. It's really not a bad idea to do in general.
Tell me this guy don’t look just like Michael Shannon ...nice content btw subbed
Lol now if I just had his money lol. Thanks for the sub!