Eric, The brushes are called so because in early D.C. motors they actually were brushes. In order to maintain contact with the commutator, very fine copper wire strands were grouped together. The brushes were similar to a thin paintbrush as is used in art. You can easily viisualize this by stripping a braided copper wire and separating the strands. These were connected to a d.c. source and made contact with the commutator, while allowing it to easily spin. Modern motors use solid graphite in place of these copper wire brushes. The graphite is kept in contact by a spring. But, unlike copper (which is very ductile and malleable) , graphite is brittle. Even so, graphite conducts electricity well and produces very little friction, thus allowing the commutator to easily spin.
Working with plastic, it's a good idea to turn the screws counterclockwise until they drop into the threads. That way you know you're in the original threads and not cutting new ones which would not be as sturdy.
You can also use a plastic welder and fill the original screw post with plastic, then get a thread cutter and cut new threads for the screw from the fresh plastic. Plastic screw posts have a limit to how many times they can be taken apart and re-screwed so that is why when you take apart and repair things you make sure you do all the repairs in one shot.
Amazing how many ruined threads you find in plastic bushings because people think, "I'll just SCREW these screws back in and the job is done" Until the next person has to fix it! lol
@@huskyvacs Plastic threads will last a long time, possibly for the life of the product, if you are careful and don't cross-thread or over-tighten them. (50+ years of medical electronics)
My dad just passed away last month. I used to take apart his broken tools and fix them and put them back together as a kid. He was amazed by it! I was just having some fun! Great video and very informative, Eric!
Love your calm vibe and awestruck attitude towards the inner workings of an electrical tool! felt like that the first time I saw the insides of a transmission, lol!
Wow, a GREAT hands on DIY channel. Had a similar experience many years ago when someone threw out a used GE electric lawn mower to the curb. Looked in good shape but ran erratically. Took it apart and not really knowing what I was doing, removed the carbon brushes from the holders and sanded them down until they were flat, reinserted them and cleaned the rotor contact points. Much to my amazement, the machine ran PERFECTLY! Gave great service for years afterwards. I now have 2 1960's heavy solid aluminum power drills, with no replacement parts available, that I hope will run after similar investigation and maintenance. Hey, you can't replace the old solidly built machines of yesterday with the cheap crap on the market today!
I love when I pull things apart and see an obvious problem. But it sucks when you do and can’t see anything obvious but it still won’t work. And when it’s already broken you have nothing to lose by having a crack at fixing it, and it’s very satisfying when you get things working again.
I read about brushes earlier today while doing research. Historically, the brushes were made from copper wires that actually looked like a brush so when the carbon material started being used instead, the term “carbon brush” was coined. IMO, even though it no longer looks like a brush, it's logical to have kept "brush" as part of the name since its purpose is the same.
Really enjoyed watching this video. I really like how you simplify things - it almost feels like you are a father explaining things to your kid. I am currently replacing the brushes on my (old and heavy) Black and Decker drill and thanks to you I now know that I should also lightly sandpaper the commutator. :-)
Hi, nice video. I liked what you said, "sometimes you can fix it, some times you can't" That is exactly how I think, but it's sure worth trying. I did the exact same repair today - only the type of carbon brush holders were different-. I could not find the exact same carbon brushes, so I had to carve a guide slot on the carbon with my dremel. See, the brush holder has a bend part that is used as a guide for the carbon brush. it worked and I am happy to share with you. Be safe!
Hey Eric this is great! My town library is hosting a first time Repair Cafe next week where people can bring in stuff and get it repaired by volunteers for free! Great idea in this throw away society we live in now.
Great idea, when our library opens back up after this Covid-19 lock-down, I really need to get the manager to get our own 'Repair Cafe' too. It is also a great way to get to know the people in my community. Thanks!
The old brushes were hardly worn. The brush holder apparently is inadequate so it may have been better to fix / improve the original. I've always cleaned commutators with an eraser. I don't think that sandpaper grit getting into those areas will do it any good.. I hope your repair works out and gives good service.
so i bought a drill hammer today, during usage i see a faint blue spark in drill, searched youtube saw your video, i noticed it sparked after you fixed it (8:41), upon further inspection and research i found out new drills have break-in sparks.
I would have tried to jimmy rig it before i tried ordering but it is still a learning experience. I am so thankful for people who take time to make informative videos to help other people and educate anyone that may be going through the same thing. Thank you brother!!! Your time and effort is greatly appreciated!!! Sincerely, Patrick Mulcahy Y
Loved your video, well explained and mainly you talked during the whole process and explained everything in a very simple way. Most of the videos in relation to repairs just simple show the process but do not talk and to me that is a minor. Congratulations and greeting from Lancaster, PA. WG, (US Army Retired) and proud to serve.
Hi Eric I just found your video I have same problem and same brushes to replace where did you buy them can you give there information where to find the if you put the link I will appreciate it than you
Better look out, AvE, Eric's giving you a run for your money! I've had to replace drill brushes a few times, and in my experience, they will be a little sparky and ozone-y at first, until the new brushes wear in a bit and make better contact with the commutator.
your such a likable character. If your not a teacher, you should be. Kids could really do with more people like you around. Even adults for that matter. I'm pretty sure your video reduced my stress levels. haha. Thank you for bringing a simple appreciative view on DIY repair
Very interesting. I have the same problem with the excessive sparks, but other than that, the drill also slowed down and a bit more noisy. Did your drill have the same issues or just the spark problem?
That's too late for this question I know but if somebody has the same problem replace the "brush"-es immediately, they do wear out and if they wear out too much the spring no longer compresses them enough and they _can_ and will jump out of their clamp which can mean a short-circuit or worse if some part embeds into the rotor or.. your eyes.
I’m the same as you, I hate putting stuff in the bin. Most of the time these tools just need cleaning. Tools that are exposed to dust, should have a blast of compressed air to get rid of dust and other gunk that gets stuck into its components IE: brushes etc. Great video.
Do you think i can do this with bigger motors if i can find the right replacement brushes? I kind of want to get a broken winch motor from a pickup truck and try to fix it for projects.
Good repair, I'm glad that you cleaned up the armature. You might want to put a little more grease on the little pinion gear and large gear, you could probably use some wheel bearing grease.
Hi Eric, I have a Pink Power cordless drill that started throwing sparks. I want to try and fix it but not sure where to order parts like you replaced on yours. Where do I begin to locate the parts? TIA Great video, gave me the courage to attempt the repair on mine.
Question I have a harbor freight jackhammer I replaced the brushes all the time but it seems as though one side always wears out quicker. There are adjustable Flathead screw thing that I think I'm able to adjust the pressure on the spring of the brushes. Do you think that maybe I could be tighten it too much and wearing out the one side you think maybe I should back out the other side. It's actually sparking on that one side
I read your comment. I have no idea but it sounds logical. IF YOU KNOW it won't cause damage to slightly adjust the screw, I'd try it and see if it stops sparking but do this at your own risk.
Thanks for this video, my black n decker started giving me a lot of sparks like that and the repair shop said didn't worthed to fix a 30 euro drill. But thanks to your video I will go get the little carbon tubes and clean that part they touch and hope it works again.
mine in the end was not the carbon tubes, but a wire in the motor is busted and create unbalance on the current as it seems. Still have the sparks with the new brushes and cleaned the touching surface. I guess it is time to get a new one or a better one.
Thank you Sir for this useful DIY. Actually your drill looks still sparks out, but it's better and less than before. So, is it normal for new drill sparks out just like your drill after DIY?
Small amount of sparks OK. Chucking sparks out and plastic bits not OK. Because the commutator is rotating and the brushes are fixed there is some arcing. That’s the sparks you see.
He did not put the old brushes back in and did not put them back in in their original spots either. There will be more sparking when you do this because they have to re-hone themselves to the commutator again. Also use a commutator polishing stone, not sandpaper.
Hi Sir, I tried to open my home use Solid Drill machine but it only opened a slightly one from handle then when I rotated the chuck some sort of sound begins to comes out from where sparks comes please tell me the solution I will be very thankfull to you for your such an act of kindness
It must just be the editing, but no one puts all the screws back in before testing, surely?! Thanks for the video - interesting as always! Even though I’m pretty sure my cordless drill has a brushless motor, I still feel I learned something 😊
6:50 I would clean it with duraglit... Duraglit is a thick cotton wadding pad embedded with micro-fine aluminium oxide abrasives. It is moistened with mineral spirits. Duraglit Wadding Polish, Metals - for brass, copper, chrome and other metals.
Hi i do also have the same problem about the spark....but!? How come the nozel or the tip where you put the drill blades?!?! Sorry dont know it call,well anyway it spark but it dont spin to make a hole. Hope you get it coz i need advice. Thanks
Went a little slow, but it is good to go into detail. What about lubrication to the gears and bearing? Cleaning the tape off of the casing. Make it new again!
Great video. There were still a few sparks after you put it back together. My dewalt sds is doing the exact same thing and it sounds like something is stuck in there, it may be the spring? I will be replacing the brushes on mine. Fantastic video, thanks.
Hi Eric, I noticed you inserted the first brush backwards. I mean, one end is shaped(curved) to have good contact with the commutator), but you put the other end towards the commutator.
Hello Sir i put the drill in to reverse mode while trigger still pressed . did two or more times ..will this action damage the drill ? the drill still works ,what damage would occur because of this action . Its a 240 Volt AC Corded Drill
I've bought generic brushes disc for Ryobi 18V to retrofit. But sparks fly. I've noticed there is curvature on the new carbon brushes but it's curved the wrong rotation. Could this be the reason for sparks and why would manufacturer rotate the curvature 90 degrees off the commutator curvature?
There's still a little spark coming through at the end of the video. I have borrowed - or maybe inherited, the relative doesn't seem to want it back - an Einhell brand high speed rotary tool that was potentially never before used, but stored in a super dry warm place, not in a corrosive environment. It's about 20-25 years old and it runs quite smoothly, no problem, and seems to sound OK, maybe just a little rough. But when i was using it, there are just tiny little sparks every few seconds, i can see them through the grill but they aren't outright spewing out of the chassis - should i assume that this is normal? Brushes running in and gradually shaping themselves to the rotor, bouncing a little? Should i just get used to the little sparks? Is there any service needed or desired to prevent damage after such a long time? I rarely use mains powered tools so i'm not very used to how they behave, don't quite know what to expect. We're Europe so tool and mains are 230V.
TThe commutater can be cleaned and polished with cloth backed micro-fine aluminum oxide by slipping it around the comutatercommutater and spinning the armature. when this is done slip a piece around with the grit facing away from the commutater and install the brushes. Rotating the comutatercommutater using the cloth backed micro-fine aluminum oxide by pulling the ends of the strip. This seats the brushes to the commutater No sparks and the brushes will last a lot longer.
That cloth backed AlOx is conductive, any particles coming from it will fall into the mica slots and short out the comm bars! Glass paper is better..Better still clean out the slots after cleaning the comm up and bedding the brushses...
Who did you order the parts from? I have the exact same drill and was using today and this very problem happened. Took it a part and the top carbon brush holder had broken off just as yours did in the video. I have searched online but all I’m finding is the carbon brushes and not the full housing kits. Thanks in advance!
I just finished putting mine back together. The little tab on the brush holder broke off in the same place yours was. I need mine today so I don’t have replacement parts yet. I ended up using rosin core electrical solder to to fill the gap between the spring holding tab and the brush holding body. I’m hoping it holds long enough to drill some pilot holes for TapCon screws.
Iv seen a video which shows a technique of how to check for carbon between the connecting pads of the armature / commutator. He took a 60W lightbulb in series so if you hold two bare probes and tough them together the bulb lights up. Then he goes to each set of pads and tests with the bare wires the pads next to each other all the way around. If the pads are bad and the gaps clogged the gap will start arcing. all glue must be removed and all carbon dug out from any faulty gaps. I guess the best would be to refill the gas with some heat resistant epoxy. Once there is no more arcing you can put it back together.
You possibly have a issue with the bearing,when the bearing is bad it creates friction causing heat and will be putting the motor under a lot of strain making it get hot and spark.....if you hold the chuck of the drill and turn it by hand does it turn easy or is it hard? If it's hard to turn the drill definitely needs disassembly to inspect it.
Help; my drill was sparking quite badly, I suspected the brushes, watched your video, the brushes are ok, I've cleaned up the bit the brushes touch as it was black, now shiny. Still got more sparking than it shound have. Bit gutted, I need my drill ☹ any thoughts on anything else I can look at, drills not had too much use, too good to throw 🤷♀️
Thanks a lot... Interesting vid. But i tried to fix my cut off machine, it needed a brush replacing.. But it didn't went well cause the machine didn't start again ! Maybe because I didn't clean the commutator bar 🤔.. What do you think.. Thanks in advance.
motors do not always use only graphite for brushes. the composition of brush material depends on several factors eg current density, ac, or dc current, motor voltage.
I burned up a dewalt drill and it let the magic smoke out. Still runs but boy it sends bits out the vents. Will try this and hopefully it will be save it.
@@gardenfork Figured out why my 20 year old Frigidaire refrigerator stopped working, replaced the thermostat and back to a working fridge. ;) Thanks to RUclips!
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Eric, The brushes are called so because in early D.C. motors they actually were brushes. In order to maintain contact with the commutator, very fine copper wire strands were grouped together. The brushes were similar to a thin paintbrush as is used in art. You can easily viisualize this by stripping a braided copper wire and separating the strands. These were connected to a d.c. source and made contact with the commutator, while allowing it to easily spin. Modern motors use solid graphite in place of these copper wire brushes. The graphite is kept in contact by a spring. But, unlike copper (which is very ductile and malleable) , graphite is brittle. Even so, graphite conducts electricity well and produces very little friction, thus allowing the commutator to easily spin.
Good info. Ty
Thanks for that information. Awesome job
Oh I thought it was because they brushed up against the commutator.
👍👍 Nice info
in some countries, they are called carbon bushes.
Working with plastic, it's a good idea to turn the screws counterclockwise until they drop into the threads. That way you know you're in the original threads and not cutting new ones which would not be as sturdy.
Great tip man, thanks
Thank you
You can also use a plastic welder and fill the original screw post with plastic, then get a thread cutter and cut new threads for the screw from the fresh plastic. Plastic screw posts have a limit to how many times they can be taken apart and re-screwed so that is why when you take apart and repair things you make sure you do all the repairs in one shot.
Amazing how many ruined threads you find in plastic bushings because people think, "I'll just SCREW these screws back in and the job is done" Until the next person has to fix it! lol
@@huskyvacs Plastic threads will last a long time, possibly for the life of the product, if you are careful and don't cross-thread or over-tighten them. (50+ years of medical electronics)
My dad just passed away last month. I used to take apart his broken tools and fix them and put them back together as a kid. He was amazed by it! I was just having some fun!
Great video and very informative, Eric!
I’m sorry to hear about your Dad Russ, neat that you could learn from his tools.
Love your calm vibe and awestruck attitude towards the inner workings of an electrical tool! felt like that the first time I saw the insides of a transmission, lol!
wow, i would not work on a transmission!
You are a professional, the demonstration is clear and clear, there is no nonsense, it is very comfortable to watch, I have learned it, thank you!
Wow, a GREAT hands on DIY channel. Had a similar experience many years ago when someone threw out a used GE electric lawn mower to the curb. Looked in good shape but ran erratically. Took it apart and not really knowing what I was doing, removed the carbon brushes from the holders and sanded them down until they were flat, reinserted them and cleaned the rotor contact points. Much to my amazement, the machine ran PERFECTLY! Gave great service for years afterwards. I now have 2 1960's heavy solid aluminum power drills, with no replacement parts available, that I hope will run after similar investigation and maintenance. Hey, you can't replace the old solidly built machines of yesterday with the cheap crap on the market today!
I love when I pull things apart and see an obvious problem. But it sucks when you do and can’t see anything obvious but it still won’t work. And when it’s already broken you have nothing to lose by having a crack at fixing it, and it’s very satisfying when you get things working again.
I read about brushes earlier today while doing research. Historically, the brushes were made from copper wires that actually looked like a brush so when the carbon material started being used instead, the term “carbon brush” was coined.
IMO, even though it no longer looks like a brush, it's logical to have kept "brush" as part of the name since its purpose is the same.
Really enjoyed watching this video. I really like how you simplify things - it almost feels like you are a father explaining things to your kid. I am currently replacing the brushes on my (old and heavy) Black and Decker drill and thanks to you I now know that I should also lightly sandpaper the commutator. :-)
Sorry this brush can match for all drill?
Hi, nice video. I liked what you said, "sometimes you can fix it, some times you can't" That is exactly how I think, but it's sure worth trying. I did the exact same repair today - only the type of carbon brush holders were different-.
I could not find the exact same carbon brushes, so I had to carve a guide slot on the carbon with my dremel. See, the brush holder has a bend part that is used as a guide for the carbon brush. it worked and I am happy to share with you. Be safe!
Hey Eric this is great! My town library is hosting a first time Repair Cafe next week where people can bring in stuff and get it repaired by volunteers for free! Great idea in this throw away society we live in now.
I have read about the repair cafe idea. What fun!
Great idea, when our library opens back up after this Covid-19 lock-down, I really need to get the manager to get our own 'Repair Cafe' too. It is also a great way to get to know the people in my community. Thanks!
Great video. I like you enthusiasm and attention to details.
After watching the video I decided to fix my drill tomorrow. Wish me luck.
Very DIY genuine video. I like. Exactly what I’d expect in this video. Very informative and Eric is sincere in sharing his knowledge.
Where did you buy the part? Can you share it? Thanks
Kinda funny to see a drill being used to dismantle another drill. Cannibalistic. 🤣
That’s some deep thinking Steve 🤔 ..... 😉
I was think the same thing lol
@@gamezh4rk Zas a amyl extra a weuñttt o we f
LMAO
...and to mantle again... ✌🏼😄
The old brushes were hardly worn. The brush holder apparently is inadequate so it may have been better to fix / improve the original. I've always cleaned commutators with an eraser. I don't think that sandpaper grit getting into those areas will do it any good.. I hope your repair works out and gives good service.
Nice instructional video with a happy ending. I know that feeling when you manage to restore a device to working order yourself. Yay !
so i bought a drill hammer today, during usage i see a faint blue spark in drill, searched youtube saw your video, i noticed it sparked after you fixed it (8:41), upon further inspection and research i found out new drills have break-in sparks.
Me too. What I came here for also.
I would have tried to jimmy rig it before i tried ordering but it is still a learning experience. I am so thankful for people who take time to make informative videos to help other people and educate anyone that may be going through the same thing. Thank you brother!!!
Your time and effort is greatly appreciated!!!
Sincerely,
Patrick Mulcahy
Y
Loved your video, well explained and mainly you talked during the whole process and explained everything in a very simple way. Most of the videos in relation to repairs just simple show the process but do not talk and to me that is a minor. Congratulations and greeting from Lancaster, PA. WG, (US Army Retired) and proud to serve.
I have searched for a long time on the Internet and can only find the brushes. I need the brush holders too.
Hi Where can I buy brushes for a Black + Decker hammer drill
eReplacements maybe? Get the model number and search
Simple and best narration I ever had
Ive had the exact drill for 20+ years..It still works great even if it is old tech.
...Eric, I am a little late to the party, but really enjoyed your DIY video....gives me the confidence to do this myself....thanks for posting.. :)
Why I find this wholesome? The video is amazingly good
yeah! THx! ERic.
Looking for a video on how to reduce the sparks so that there is minimal arching inside the switch when pressed. This is important to me.
Hi Eric I just found your video I have same problem and same brushes to replace where did you buy them can you give there information where to find the if you put the link I will appreciate it than you
You're good sir, and shows and explain things like a teacher.
I genuinely enjoyed this and your commentary. Thank you for bringing me joy, wisdom and knowledge.
Where did you order the carbon brush pls let me know
Better look out, AvE, Eric's giving you a run for your money! I've had to replace drill brushes a few times, and in my experience, they will be a little sparky and ozone-y at first, until the new brushes wear in a bit and make better contact with the commutator.
Yes, the brushes are a bit sparky at the get-go , once the round out a bit they are good to go. Thx!
I was thinking "Uh oh! they are still sparking!". Good to know it's expected!
Where did you get the replacement parts? I can only find the brushes, but I want all the parts you got too
your such a likable character. If your not a teacher, you should be. Kids could really do with more people like you around. Even adults for that matter. I'm pretty sure your video reduced my stress levels. haha. Thank you for bringing a simple appreciative view on DIY repair
Very interesting. I have the same problem with the excessive sparks, but other than that, the drill also slowed down and a bit more noisy.
Did your drill have the same issues or just the spark problem?
That's too late for this question I know but if somebody has the same problem replace the "brush"-es immediately, they do wear out and if they wear out too much the spring no longer compresses them enough and they _can_ and will jump out of their clamp which can mean a short-circuit or worse if some part embeds into the rotor or.. your eyes.
I’m the same as you, I hate putting stuff in the bin.
Most of the time these tools just need cleaning. Tools that are exposed to dust, should have a blast of compressed air to get rid of dust and other gunk that gets stuck into its components IE: brushes etc. Great video.
Do you think i can do this with bigger motors if i can find the right replacement brushes? I kind of want to get a broken winch motor from a pickup truck and try to fix it for projects.
Worth a try! Brushes are cheap. Thx!
GardenFork is it ok if i make a video of it and send you the link when i can?
Good repair, I'm glad that you cleaned up the armature. You might want to put a little more grease on the little pinion gear and large gear, you could probably use some wheel bearing grease.
Good to know Pete, thx for that! Eric
Hi Eric,
I have a Pink Power cordless drill that started throwing sparks. I want to try and fix it but not sure where to order parts like you replaced on yours. Where do I begin to locate the parts? TIA
Great video, gave me the courage to attempt the repair on mine.
Sir, I would like to know if the carbon brass in the drill are the same sizes, no matter what its brand..
sorry, i do not know the answer. thanks!
Question I have a harbor freight jackhammer I replaced the brushes all the time but it seems as though one side always wears out quicker. There are adjustable Flathead screw thing that I think I'm able to adjust the pressure on the spring of the brushes. Do you think that maybe I could be tighten it too much and wearing out the one side you think maybe I should back out the other side. It's actually sparking on that one side
I read your comment. I have no idea but it sounds logical. IF YOU KNOW it won't cause damage to slightly adjust the screw, I'd try it and see if it stops sparking but do this at your own risk.
Great video, how did you order the parts, I think I have the same problem
Where can you find the right sized commutator brushes???
search google for them. thx!
What a wholesome diy video - Thanks
Thanks for this video, my black n decker started giving me a lot of sparks like that and the repair shop said didn't worthed to fix a 30 euro drill. But thanks to your video I will go get the little carbon tubes and clean that part they touch and hope it works again.
Good to hear Nikolas! Better to fix it than toss it. Thx!
Same here, sparking black and decker, mine is from the 80s tho, probably is time to take care of it. I hope it lasts another 30+ years!
mine in the end was not the carbon tubes, but a wire in the motor is busted and create unbalance on the current as it seems. Still have the sparks with the new brushes and cleaned the touching surface.
I guess it is time to get a new one or a better one.
Thank you Sir for this useful DIY.
Actually your drill looks still sparks out, but it's better and less than before. So, is it normal for new drill sparks out just like your drill after DIY?
Small amount of sparks OK. Chucking sparks out and plastic bits not OK.
Because the commutator is rotating and the brushes are fixed there is some arcing. That’s the sparks you see.
He did not put the old brushes back in and did not put them back in in their original spots either. There will be more sparking when you do this because they have to re-hone themselves to the commutator again. Also use a commutator polishing stone, not sandpaper.
The drill even sounded smoother when you put it back together and it revved up better too
Sir.. you are just so cool 😅.. Stay safe and keep it up 👍🏼
Hi Sir, I tried to open my home use Solid Drill machine but it only opened a slightly one from handle then when I rotated the chuck some sort of sound begins to comes out from where sparks comes please tell me the solution I will be very thankfull to you for your such an act of kindness
It must just be the editing, but no one puts all the screws back in before testing, surely?!
Thanks for the video - interesting as always! Even though I’m pretty sure my cordless drill has a brushless motor, I still feel I learned something 😊
I put all the screws back because of the amount of torque the drill creates, it could make something go awry.
@@gardenfork Makes sense! 👍
meurig if it had split open, it would be a mess to put back together 😃
where did you buy the parts?
I don’t remember, Mbe the Skil parts website?
Good question.
6:50 I would clean it with duraglit...
Duraglit is a thick cotton wadding pad embedded with micro-fine aluminium oxide abrasives. It is moistened with mineral spirits. Duraglit Wadding Polish, Metals - for brass, copper, chrome and other metals.
Good to know John, I did not know about that product. Thx!
@@gardenfork my pleasure
Hi i do also have the same problem about the spark....but!? How come the nozel or the tip where you put the drill blades?!?! Sorry dont know it call,well anyway it spark but it dont spin to make a hole. Hope you get it coz i need advice. Thanks
Went a little slow, but it is good to go into detail. What about lubrication to the gears and bearing? Cleaning the tape off of the casing. Make it new again!
What is the reason for sparkling the commutator? Apologies for my ignorance, but it will get dirty the moment brushes rub against, won't it?
Great video. There were still a few sparks after you put it back together. My dewalt sds is doing the exact same thing and it sounds like something is stuck in there, it may be the spring? I will be replacing the brushes on mine. Fantastic video, thanks.
Cool! I didn't know the sparks were a bad thing. I wonder if my dad still has that old drill...
Generally sparks are a red flag with power tools and life in general 😉
@@gardenfork Lol, that is true. I guess it just reminded me of one of those vintage spark toys.
but your drill sparks after repair too, my new aku drill sparks as well, its not a bad thing@@gardenfork
Great video! I need to fix my orbital sander which is sparking. I heard a spring popl so I'm hoping it's an obvious fix.
Hi Eric, I noticed you inserted the first brush backwards. I mean, one end is shaped(curved) to have good contact with the commutator), but you put the other end towards the commutator.
Yep I saw that to. Should be put the other way round !
this guy's so cool maaan
Greetings from Greece
My dad gave me his old rotary hammer im planning to fix it
Hello Sir i put the drill in to reverse mode while trigger still pressed . did two or more times ..will this action damage the drill ? the drill still works ,what damage would occur because of this action . Its a 240 Volt AC Corded Drill
This video helped me fix a hand drill (don’t know the actual name) they use at a local bakery, thank you!
I've bought generic brushes disc for Ryobi 18V to retrofit. But sparks fly. I've noticed there is curvature on the new carbon brushes but it's curved the wrong rotation. Could this be the reason for sparks and why would manufacturer rotate the curvature 90 degrees off the commutator curvature?
There's still a little spark coming through at the end of the video.
I have borrowed - or maybe inherited, the relative doesn't seem to want it back - an Einhell brand high speed rotary tool that was potentially never before used, but stored in a super dry warm place, not in a corrosive environment. It's about 20-25 years old and it runs quite smoothly, no problem, and seems to sound OK, maybe just a little rough. But when i was using it, there are just tiny little sparks every few seconds, i can see them through the grill but they aren't outright spewing out of the chassis - should i assume that this is normal? Brushes running in and gradually shaping themselves to the rotor, bouncing a little? Should i just get used to the little sparks? Is there any service needed or desired to prevent damage after such a long time? I rarely use mains powered tools so i'm not very used to how they behave, don't quite know what to expect. We're Europe so tool and mains are 230V.
Because brushed motors ALWAYS spark. Just like car engines make vroom vroom sounds..
It's nice when a project goes smoothly once in awhile....Or at least I think it would be nice...I hope to experience that someday.
Ever once in a while it works Garrison. 😀
TThe commutater can be cleaned and polished with cloth backed micro-fine aluminum oxide by slipping it around the comutatercommutater and spinning the armature. when this is done slip a piece around with the grit facing away from the commutater and install the brushes. Rotating the comutatercommutater using the cloth backed micro-fine aluminum oxide by pulling the ends of the strip. This seats the brushes to the commutater No sparks and the brushes will last a lot longer.
Excellent Gordon, thx for the info. Eric.
That cloth backed AlOx is conductive, any particles coming from it will fall into the mica slots and short out the comm bars! Glass paper is better..Better still clean out the slots after cleaning the comm up and bedding the brushses...
Who did you order the parts from? I have the exact same drill and was using today and this very problem happened. Took it a part and the top carbon brush holder had broken off just as yours did in the video. I have searched online but all I’m finding is the carbon brushes and not the full housing kits. Thanks in advance!
it was one of the major spare parts suppliers, mbe PartsSelect, or one of those. thx!
Hey good day , is it supposed to spark at all ? I open up mines and it sparks
A small amount is normal
good work sir,
Amazing video. Lots of details. Like it. Thanks
I Googled “sparking drill” and found this! I have the exact problem with the exact same model of hammer drill!
I just finished putting mine back together. The little tab on the brush holder broke off in the same place yours was. I need mine today so I don’t have replacement parts yet. I ended up using rosin core electrical solder to to fill the gap between the spring holding tab and the brush holding body. I’m hoping it holds long enough to drill some pilot holes for TapCon screws.
Thank you so much sir for sharing your knowledge. I think I can fix mine too cos we have the same problem.
Does it smells bad also when it sparks?
Iv seen a video which shows a technique of how to check for carbon between the connecting pads of the armature / commutator. He took a 60W lightbulb in series so if you hold two bare probes and tough them together the bulb lights up. Then he goes to each set of pads and tests with the bare wires the pads next to each other all the way around. If the pads are bad and the gaps clogged the gap will start arcing. all glue must be removed and all carbon dug out from any faulty gaps. I guess the best would be to refill the gas with some heat resistant epoxy. Once there is no more arcing you can put it back together.
Same drill, same exact problem. Thanks!
You're welcome!
sir your great sir how can you fix the sander cutter is grounded to the blade spinner thats my problem. .
good video thank you
Great work 👍
When I use my sander does that mean its brunt out when its on it goes faster now and has a burning smell
I have a drill with issues: it spins slowly, gets too hot and makes sparks. Any help please
You possibly have a issue with the bearing,when the bearing is bad it creates friction causing heat and will be putting the motor under a lot of strain making it get hot and spark.....if you hold the chuck of the drill and turn it by hand does it turn easy or is it hard? If it's hard to turn the drill definitely needs disassembly to inspect it.
Is it normal if there is still spark inside?
Thanks love from India👍
8:39 - You can still see sparks going crazy if you look closely at the vent holes in the back... lol
It's supposed to do that. That's just the electricity coming out of the brushes onto the motor. All tools with brushes do that.🙄
tu mujer también hace chispas por todos lados...y a nosotros nos gusta mucho....hjajajaaj
That's the problem with videos like this,, too simple for all issues on the commutator
Good job 👍💖
Help; my drill was sparking quite badly, I suspected the brushes, watched your video, the brushes are ok, I've cleaned up the bit the brushes touch as it was black, now shiny. Still got more sparking than it shound have. Bit gutted, I need my drill ☹ any thoughts on anything else I can look at, drills not had too much use, too good to throw 🤷♀️
What is the reason for coming spark
Which type of gear is used in this drill machine? Helical or some modification of worm gear set? I will be really grateful if someone tells my 🙏
This dude is radiating dad energy
Great video,,, Thats an Impact drill and the sparks are still there though lesser, much lesser.
Happy For you
It's supposed to do that you moron. All tools with brushes spark around the motor as it turns.🙄
small sparks are normal as line voltage contact is being made and broken at high speed.
Thanks a lot... Interesting vid. But i tried to fix my cut off machine, it needed a brush replacing.. But it didn't went well cause the machine didn't start again ! Maybe because I didn't clean the commutator bar 🤔.. What do you think.. Thanks in advance.
Wouldn’t hurt to try and clean it up, it might work ! Thx!
This super cool, Great video
Great video
Nice work
Very helpful
Glad you think so!
motors do not always use only graphite for brushes. the composition of brush material depends on several factors eg current density, ac, or dc current, motor voltage.
I burned up a dewalt drill and it let the magic smoke out. Still runs but boy it sends bits out the vents. Will try this and hopefully it will be save it.
i still see the spark at the end of video. Is it normal to have spark ?
Nice 👍🏽 So satisfying to fix things.
Exactly Ray, what have you fixed lately?
@@gardenfork Figured out why my 20 year old Frigidaire refrigerator stopped working, replaced the thermostat and back to a working fridge. ;) Thanks to RUclips!
Thanks , nice insructed
I have a 1940's industrial drill that sparks a ton. Now I know how to fix it!
Let me know if it works for you. Those old drills last forever.
Better use a plastic drill