Frankie has it the right way. You put the strap back through the ratchet, then pull it tight before you start ratcheting. This way you're not taking up all the slack with the ratchet. You end up with a lot less strap wrapped around the ratchet, which also helps keep the strap from working its way loose. Also, if you have a strap that gets frayed or cut, just cut it off at that point rather than throwing the whole thing away. You'll just have a shorter but still perfectly good strap.
@@cammitchell5049 spot on !I close the ratchet run the strap threw never ever had one loosen up on me ! From Car's on trailers to just about anything ya can name ! Right down to my $25,000 Snap on tool box ..... Never once had a strap come loose !!
Also, Stanley says that Frankie's way results in more of the strap on the ratchet, but that's only semi-true. Stanley probably has it in his head that since the two straps are together with Frankie's way, double the amount of strap will be rolled up. However, he's probably forgetting that with his way, the other side of the strap is also being rolled up, just at the other side of the ratched. The only difference in the amount of strap that's rolled up is that initial bit where the strap comes back from the inside of the ratched to the outside, which is just half a turn.
If you look closely, you'll see that it won't matter whether you feed it through and back out or feed it through and keep it straight. Once that reel makes one turn you will be doubling up the strap no matter which way you thread it
As a CDL driver I do it the “Frankie Way”, it allows for tension to be applied before ratcheting. And when completed with tightening the strap can be tucked in an ratcheted on more click and then the excess strap can be rolled and tucked under the handle. This keeps everything neat and tidy and easy for retightening and makes the DOT and MTO’s job easier while inspecting the load which makes them happy which means I keeping moving down the road with no violations.
This a timely reminder of how we did it today. I was acting as Trades Assistant to a boilermaker . We had to straighten up a steel fence post. He immediately reached for his new ratchet strap. He showed me the assembly method which I had not seen before. Just as you have shown here. As I watched he put a loop around the top of the post , threaded the strap around the towbar on the truck backed up to rest against the road gutter. He used the ratchet to pull the post into line three times. Releasing it just after the post became square plumb and true. It finally stayed straight after the third application. All up it took ten minutes and we were than able to install an automatic sliding gate system which he had built back at the factory. I really enjoy working with professional men who know their tools and materials.
Any noticeable amount of "tension loss" in a ratchet strap is due to your load shifting. Period. You see just ratchet straps securing loads on a flatbed semi and they drive across the country like that. No issues. It's all in how you secure your load. Most people have piles of garage in their pickup that is obviously going to shift, causing the strap to appear loose.
To be fair, straps used on semis are probably used a lot more than those from a homeowner, so they're probably more stretched out. However, the 40% stretch on a strap that Stanley mentioned, I find hard to believe. That would mean that something designed to hold tension can extend by almost half its length. 4% sounds a lot more reasonable. I mostly agree that it's due to loads shifting and settling, but I'm sure the strap also stretches a little.
The straps stretch a ridiculous amount when you torque them down on heavy loads (not excessively tightening them). For most DIY'ers they will not have issues or notice too much. Next time you're strapping down a load of lumber, brick, what have you, once you've gotten it tightened, tape a piece of string across the adjustable (long side of the strap, not over the ratchet). Then loosen the strap and watch the amount of slack in the string vs the strap. The difference is pretty amazing sometimes. A new strap has much more stretch then a 'seasoned' one.
Frankie has it right. If you take out enough slack you don’t have to worry about lack of space from doubling up. 12 years of strapping down loads for shipments to offshore oil rigs i’ve never seen you style before lol
New to your channel and already I"m like what I see. First thing I noticed was you had your way of doing it then Mr Frankie comes in and you asked his opinion. I liked that you didnt dismiss his way for being different. Instead, you showed the different ways and talked about the pros and cons of each... Two thumbs up bro.. You have a new viewer subscribed!
I have the simple strap. Haven't had a chance to use it yet. I think it will be great. Hopefully a way to secure without risk of damage to finished pieces...
I prefer to use Frankie’s method. Pulling on the tag end and the ratchet not in locked open, give you enough clicks for the web to tension on itself. With your method, Stan, I found it harder to take up slack without stuffing too much in the bale. Noobs leave too much on the ratchet and that makes it harder to open and release the load. Just another Polish opinion. Thanks and work safe!
Oblique Perspective sure! When there is a lot of strap wrapped around the slot/ bale it is crazy difficult to release the handle. I have found that it only needs about three clicks to keep strap tight. And much easier to release tension since you can pull half a click and release the spindle keeper
If you have too much strap in the ratchet you did not get enough slack out before you started to tighten. That big wad of strap is not as strong as just a few wraps around as it will compress easier and could slip sideways if you get very unlucky. It is much harder to release the lock when there is so much fabric under that handle.
The way frankie does it is the recommended way by the manufacturer and the only way you do it if you are in the over the road hauling business. Your way makes it so much harder to get tension and hold it till you can use the ratchet. If you watch how a ratchet works you will always be rolling the fabric onto itself. That is how it provides the tension to hold things. The gears are there to maintain the tension. It is fabric stretching that makes you check your load to re-tighten the straps.
Do like Simple Strap, which saw & picked up from a Trade show of some kind, lol. But, can never have to many ratchet straps, snatch Block pulleys, come-alongs, bungee, etc.....As there’s a time & a place for each of these “tools”; & they are pretty great. Naturally, when ya need a tie down or strap, can’t find one to save your life.....than when don’t need any; ya seem to have a truck load🤣. Always make sure I keep couple simple straps, snatch blocks in every vehicle....cuz never know when you’ll need them. Cheers✌🏼
Great vids keep up the great work. On straps, I go your way front to back. With the extra or tail, your ratchet handle has an eyelette on the hook just put it through and simple knot back on itself. If the ratchet mech breaks its still held on. If your tail is so long it’s still hanging on the ground, use a shorter strap or just tie it up like rock climbing rope and let it hang.
I got these straps for Christmas. They are made by husky, they have no racket in them. You pull the slack tight and are locked in place. I got these because I’m “ratchet strap challenged” lol great video Stan thank you
As with others, I use Frankie's method - however, some people may prefer to tie the tail up above the ratchet, so whatever works for you... Some other comments - the ShockStrap hooks - if you guys noticed, it has safety clips on the hooks which should go a long way towards preventing the damn things slipping off when you're trying to run the straps. I use a dry, silicone based, lubricant on the ratchets - seems to help reduce the sticking that sometimes happens, and also seems to help reduce the rust and crap building up on them. I don't know if ALL your strap brands do it, but down here the straps will have a trace thread, or other marking, on one side - makes it MUCH easier to run them without putting a twist in them. One of the main reasons for straps to wear, even fail, is tightening them down across sharp-ish edges and when the load shifts slightly - I made up a bunch of sleeves for the straps from old "layflat" hose* that is a little wider than the stap it's for - just cut 12" (300mm) lengths and slit along the middle of one side, to make a "C" section. You can run the strap loosely, then just slip the sleeve (hose) around the strap where it runs over abrasive sections and tighten down - the big advantages over the usual sleeves are they are cheap (free?) and don't need to be put on before running the strap through the ratchet. *This sort of stuff if you're not sure what I mean - image.made-in-china.com/202f0j00QTrRhMKPqGqv/Blue-Light-Agriculture-Irrigation-Water-Discharge-PVC-Layflat-Hose-4bar.jpg - you may be able to pick some up from hire or pump suplliers as they should have some worn out, or holed, sections they can't use.
I use Frankie's way 👍👍 Both ways are fine and I get what you say about his way doubles the material so less ratchets..BUT....all 3 of us pull the strap as tight as poss before ratcheting so it doesn't need lots of ratcheting anyway...I find I can pull the strap much tighter Frankie's way....Sorry stan..you the man (but not in this case)😁😁😁 ATB..
Frankie's way works for me the best , if you have a compactable load you can pull on the tail while keeping tension on it before ratcheting also makes it easier to reuse the tail on another pass or roll and hitch. If our local Garda caught me without correct ladder tie downs he gets his little book out and starts writing , same if the tags are gone off ratchet straps but thats the wonderful safety rule making Ireland we have today
Stanley -- I saw one of your recent videos that introduced me to the Simple Strap. I found their website and ordered (2) sections of the product. It works phenomenal for my securing my extension and A frame ladders on my roof rack. Great product!
You forgotten one of major points of flat straps, when going across an unsupported distances, please put a twist or two in the strap, too many straps fail because the wind will make the untwisted strap vibrate and resonate wildly to a point it will fail.
The way Frankie does it by putting strap back thru is the way I and most truckers I know do it. One reason I like it that way is you can pull the strap tighter before racheting it also either way you still get the strap doubling on it self so that is not a good argument.
On the first tie down I do it the same way as Frankie. Either way you will still use the same amount of webbing when you tighten it up. The benefits of doing it with the excess out the top is it makes it easier to re tighten if need be.
I’ve been doing it frankies way for years and always worked well for me. The way you do it Stan can be hard cause if you’re doing an awkward angle you ratchet down on ur own strap and sometimes impossible to ratchet.
I have ratchet straps come undone from doing it the way you like to. Doing them from the front not only makes them easier to pull snug to the ratchet but can be used to wrap around the ratchet lever to keep it from coming undone. Sorry, but I have never had a problem doing it my way and bet you Frankie hasn't either.
And you never will. When you do over the road it is recommended at least when i started over 20 years ago that you only drive 50 miles after the first tie down and then you quickly check the straps. Nothing wrong with a little caution when you have money on that trailer. You may never find a strap loose but if you do you will be happy you checked. I have had a few straps get a little slack but by checking on them at regular intervals i was able to catch them and had no trouble.
I think Frankie has it right also but I start with the handle closed to save feeding it back through. Also once tight, the strap can be secured over the closed ratchet handle to add extra security to virtually eliminate the possibility of the handle inadvertently releasing.
G'day Straps are popular because most people don't know how to tie a rope properly. I use the Frankie method.The other method can make undoing the ratchet easier.
I've used the rachet straps both ways, but I prefer the way Frankie does it because when you have the extra strap I try to go once around the Bale of the rachet mechanism and the a half hitch to secure it and eliminate the excess from flapping around
I've always done it the way Frankie does it because I can sinch it tight and then ratchet it down, I then use the excess strap length and wrap it around the ratchet to keep it from popping open.
I learned from the YT channel Essential Craftsman that you should put 1 twist in your strap on each side of the load to prevent your strap from fluttering or humming. It works for me.
The best bungee cord I have found and use is Monkey fingers brand adjustable bungee. sizes 6 in. to 60in and 6 in to 120 in. They are excellent for securing tarps or ladders wheel barrows etc. on utility trailers.
pyro 323 good point! I keep them lubed up and duct taped in a bundle. Guy taught me that you put the tape side out on first turn and strap doesn’t get sticky from glue!
Wind vibration solved! If you put a half turn in long runs of strap hanging out by themselves in the breeze and not against a load, the wind will be directed through that twist and keep your strap from buzzing. Always keep the twist out of your strap on the load. Badly twisted straps can roll, flat straps don’t.
Nice vid. Appreciate all the attention to the do’s and donts of initial strap use. Your vids are always straight and to the point. Those simple straps look pretty slick. I’ll test a set and put them on my channel too. 👍
did you try the simple strap on a load of lumber in the rear of the truck? Obviously I don't mean an entire bed full, but maybe around 10 or so pieces.
If it's a rubber strap, I'd say avoid using it in temperatures much below freezing, since it's going to start losing the ductility it needs to develop tension.
Question is, is the simple strap DOT legal? They did away with bungee cords for load securement has to be a ratchet strap. Commercial or personal everyone falls under DOT laws.
Right or wrong, I’ve always done it Stan’s way, never had the ratchet open up on me or loosen, personal preference I guess. The reason I do it Stan’s way is it makes it easier to undo the ratchet when unloading, I can open the mechanism and just pull the extra strap and unravel the center part.
ive had it for years the same way as the buddy who walked it and ive never had an issue, and for such a simple tool I don't see any reason to do it differently
I’m curious if rapid/simple straps are even DOT compliant. You are responsible for any load you haul and any damage it may cause. I wouldn’t want to find out at a weigh station and DOT officers. Protect all webbing on ratchet straps from abrasion. Use corner buffers to prevent chafing. Never use questionable straps. Chemicals and sunlight can degrade ratchet strap webbing. No matter how you feed that strap, it doubles up upon ratcheting. I’ve seen guys cut frozen 4” 20 K straps because they couldn’t get them loose in below 0 temps. All they needed to do was pour a small amount of alcohol on the strap winch to get it to release. Bungy cords you secure a loose hook till you can tension the strap will save you a lot of time in securing loads. That shock strap is a great strap. I have some rope straps that use the same technology for lighter tie-down situations.
I've used straps in Stan's way and Frankie's. Stan's way is easier when straps are at chest height or 3" straps, and with extra strap left over you can loop through the handle and tie a knot in it.
So, about the simple strap.. I live in Phoenix (AKA the gates of hell) I am concerned about how long it will last while in our heat and UV exposure? Most everything goes bad faster when exposed to the sun a lot. Your thoughts?
I have to agree with everyone else that has commented already that Frankie's method is the correct way. What I have to disagree with you, Stan, and couple of the people that also commented below is where they say one method or the other has less strap being wrapped around the barrel. Straight through will wrap the same amount of strap around the barrel as the through and back. Try it with a junk strap and mark it. The difference will be minor. I also disagree with the comment that the tag end on the through and back method being able to loosen the ratchet. If the tag can do that, A) You should have secured the tag end and B) that ratchet's a piece of garbage. There should be a security release that when used will allow you to release the tension on the strap and if tightened, it usually takes a bit of force to use that release. That all being said, great video, keep 'em coming.
As said unless you have terrible junk ratchets the handle can come up all it wants as long as the handle release is not triggered. On all the ones i have ever seen it would be impossible for a strap itself to do that to the ratchet. Most have a double release on the non OTR version.
Oh, a video on the different ways of securing the loose tails would be sweet, thanks. Also the over/under methods of using the hooks, and other available ends.
Side note, see what happens when the loose tail gets under a wheel while the business end stays attached to the vehicle. Instant emergency brake! This led to an actual invention for semi trailers used in steep grade areas to stop runaway semi trucks with trailers.
You should use the Franky way and you can pass the strap back over the handle and use the tail to haul the ratchet tighter. we did it that way for aircraft cargo. but we always half hitched the tail and buried the remainder under the load or taped it.
I use a loop to keep the ratchet strap’s tail from going where it shouldn’t. I hold the tail making three layers going around the split bar. Wish I could take a picture for you
Stan I have those same straps that Frankie uses I loop it the same as he does and what I do is I ratchet it a 3-4 full ratchets then I take the tail into the ratchet so the tail isn't flopping around then the rest into the handle click it down and no flying tail
13:35 I'm not so sure that the canoo being light makes it worse for the strap. Especially because the canoo is pretty streamlined, I doubt it really catches a lot of wind. The main thing for a strap is to keep stuff from moving on sudden changes in speed, like hard braking. Since the canoo is so light, the forces there will be pretty low. If it's a heavier object, the forces will be much higher. I'm sure the simple strap is nice for tying stuff together, and keeping stuff in place, but I definitely wouldn't use it to strap something down to a car or trailer.
Frankie has it right, you can pull it a lot tighter like that. He did do it the hard way though. All u gotta do is close the ratchet slide the strap through the slot and pull away from the ratchet and then crank it. Much faster that way. I got good at it because im a guy that takes the ratchet off and then neatly rolls up the strap separately. That way when i need it i just grab the tail and throw the roll overhead the load. Im surprised at how little they know with the field they are in
THAT FUNNY STAN ...FRANKY DID IT RIGHT ...LOOK CLOSE TO THE VID YOU PROVED IT ... GLAD TO SEE YOU CAN STILL LEARN ...LUV YA BUDDY ...GOOD JOB FRANKY I LIKE SHORT ONES TO NEVER THROUGH ONE AWAY ...SHORT OR LONG...PS ON STRAPS THE BIGGER THE BEDDER OVER KILL IS GO ON STRAPPING THINGS DOWN...
I prefer Stan’s way simply because you can lift the handle to release the tension and then pull the tail to completely release the load. I would not hesitate to use Frankie’s way either if the configuration of the load would make it more beneficial. As long as the slack is out in the beginning there would be little to no difference in how much strap is actually rolled up on the ratchet. I wouldn’t say either way is actually wrong.
i used to tie down aluminum and steel coils on well trailers. you should see how frayed our straps were. good thing they were covered up by a Conestoga tarp
@@Dirtmonkey hi Stan, thanks for the reply. I do use chains but they come loose while I'm driving and I don't know why the ratcheting binders would do that?
That rubber strap performed well after sawdust and being wet. I bet if it I were to encounter any type of mud the friction just would not be there. I just would not trust it for most of our uses. Banding copper pipe and furring strips together to facilitate ease of carrying by hand I have no problem with. Wouldn’t trust it to secure most cargo to be transported on public roadways. They still have their place for some situations. Shockstrap winner hands down.
Dang you guys are making using a ratchet strap way too hard, so this is how to do it. #1- run your strap over your load, #2- then look at the ratchet end and with it folded together, the wrapping bar with the slot should be either 90% or close to 90% when closed so you can feed the strap through easily, #3- slip strap through slot, and pull tight, #4 now finish tightening with the rachet, #5 take loos leftover strap and tie a couple of half hitches over and around the tight and closed rachet as an extra safety so rachet stays locked, now fold up and tie off any loose strap so it can`t fly around and get caught in tires or anything else. Now when you want to remove the strap simply untie the loose part, unlock the rachet all the way {we call this breaking the rachets back}. with the rachet fully opened {back broken there is a larger cam that releases the rachet brake-lock, then hold the rachet from the back and pull to you and the strap will just roll out the overlapping wrap and then slid right off. It is also easier to pull the strap end right out if while you leave the strap end hoked on load and just walk back while pulling the rachet from the middle of the back. I B.C Canada it is Transport hiways law that the strap once tight be tied over the locked rachet which signifies you have it locked. If you have lots of extra strap once rachet is locked and has a couple of half hitches proving it is safe i like to take the end and tie it on load so it hangs from load off back as an extra attention-getter, especially on over length loads.
Frankie has it the right way. You put the strap back through the ratchet, then pull it tight before you start ratcheting. This way you're not taking up all the slack with the ratchet. You end up with a lot less strap wrapped around the ratchet, which also helps keep the strap from working its way loose.
Also, if you have a strap that gets frayed or cut, just cut it off at that point rather than throwing the whole thing away. You'll just have a shorter but still perfectly good strap.
Agreed. Definently harder to get the strap tight the other way.
I fold the handle over thread the strap through then pull tight n start ratcheting. Im a truckie i do this everyday
@@cammitchell5049 spot on !I close the ratchet run the strap threw never ever had one loosen up on me ! From Car's on trailers to just about anything ya can name ! Right down to my $25,000 Snap on tool box ..... Never once had a strap come loose !!
Also, Stanley says that Frankie's way results in more of the strap on the ratchet, but that's only semi-true. Stanley probably has it in his head that since the two straps are together with Frankie's way, double the amount of strap will be rolled up. However, he's probably forgetting that with his way, the other side of the strap is also being rolled up, just at the other side of the ratched. The only difference in the amount of strap that's rolled up is that initial bit where the strap comes back from the inside of the ratched to the outside, which is just half a turn.
The strap that's loose you can put another ratchet on it it and stick something else down I call it the double whammy
Frankie is doing it the proper way. Used to do load outs in the army and this is the way they taught us. Works great.
If you look closely, you'll see that it won't matter whether you feed it through and back out or feed it through and keep it straight. Once that reel makes one turn you will be doubling up the strap no matter which way you thread it
agreed
So true
Thank you! I said that as soon as he showed the "difference".
but u forgot about the x-tree....now if someone would just explain to me what an "x-tree" is.
Yup
As a CDL driver I do it the “Frankie Way”, it allows for tension to be applied before ratcheting. And when completed with tightening the strap can be tucked in an ratcheted on more click and then the excess strap can be rolled and tucked under the handle. This keeps everything neat and tidy and easy for retightening and makes the DOT and MTO’s job easier while inspecting the load which makes them happy which means I keeping moving down the road with no violations.
I have always used Frankies way of running a ratchet strap from 1” to 4” straps
This a timely reminder of how we did it today. I was acting as Trades Assistant to a boilermaker . We had to straighten up a steel fence post. He immediately reached for his new ratchet strap. He showed me the assembly method which I had not seen before. Just as you have shown here. As I watched he put a loop around the top of the post , threaded the strap around the towbar on the truck backed up to rest against the road gutter. He used the ratchet to pull the post into line three times. Releasing it just after the post became square plumb and true. It finally stayed straight after the third application. All up it took ten minutes and we were than able to install an automatic sliding gate system which he had built back at the factory. I really enjoy working with professional men who know their tools and materials.
Thanks for the comments and thanks for watching Steven !
5:00 The Franky way is the way! 👍👍
That rubber one is an adaptation of a blood draw tourniquet.
Love the video. Extra points for the Grunt Style shirt! When I ran a truck as an Electrician, I used to use #10 AWG wire to tie down my ladders...lol
Thank you !!
Best part about Frankie's way is being able to tie the extra around the ratchet holding it shut with no reverse pressure it.
Any noticeable amount of "tension loss" in a ratchet strap is due to your load shifting. Period. You see just ratchet straps securing loads on a flatbed semi and they drive across the country like that. No issues. It's all in how you secure your load. Most people have piles of garage in their pickup that is obviously going to shift, causing the strap to appear loose.
I'm pretty sure that OTR drivers check their straps.
Federal Law requires that load securement straps or chains must be checked every two hours of travel on tractor-trailer rigs
To be fair, straps used on semis are probably used a lot more than those from a homeowner, so they're probably more stretched out. However, the 40% stretch on a strap that Stanley mentioned, I find hard to believe. That would mean that something designed to hold tension can extend by almost half its length. 4% sounds a lot more reasonable. I mostly agree that it's due to loads shifting and settling, but I'm sure the strap also stretches a little.
The straps stretch a ridiculous amount when you torque them down on heavy loads (not excessively tightening them). For most DIY'ers they will not have issues or notice too much. Next time you're strapping down a load of lumber, brick, what have you, once you've gotten it tightened, tape a piece of string across the adjustable (long side of the strap, not over the ratchet). Then loosen the strap and watch the amount of slack in the string vs the strap. The difference is pretty amazing sometimes. A new strap has much more stretch then a 'seasoned' one.
And this is why I keep coming back relentlessly watching these very helpful videos. Thanks again, Stanley!
I really appreciate that you are here , thank you !
Frankie has it right. If you take out enough slack you don’t have to worry about lack of space from doubling up. 12 years of strapping down loads for shipments to offshore oil rigs i’ve never seen you style before lol
seem like this was more of an advertisement for simples strap than a vide How NOT to use a rachet strap
LOL that was my thought. How NOT to use a ratchet strap-> Buy a simple strap. Just saved people almost 16 minutes of infomercial. You're welcome.
New to your channel and already I"m like what I see. First thing I noticed was you had your way of doing it then Mr Frankie comes in and you asked his opinion. I liked that you didnt dismiss his way for being different. Instead, you showed the different ways and talked about the pros and cons of each... Two thumbs up bro.. You have a new viewer subscribed!
Much appreciated, thanks for being here !!
Always more than one way to skin a cat. But your help had it the right way in my eyes. Rock on.
Thanks for the comments !
I have the simple strap. Haven't had a chance to use it yet. I think it will be great. Hopefully a way to secure without risk of damage to finished pieces...
I prefer to use Frankie’s method. Pulling on the tag end and the ratchet not in locked open, give you enough clicks for the web to tension on itself. With your method, Stan, I found it harder to take up slack without stuffing too much in the bale. Noobs leave too much on the ratchet and that makes it harder to open and release the load. Just another Polish opinion. Thanks and work safe!
Another thing, you are an animal with those silicone straps across the doorway. Hoorah, you!
@@jimpikul8551 Could you explain "too much on the Bale," and "too much on the Ratchet?" Thx
Oblique Perspective sure! When there is a lot of strap wrapped around the slot/ bale it is crazy difficult to release the handle. I have found that it only needs about three clicks to keep strap tight. And much easier to release tension since you can pull half a click and release the spindle keeper
Did this help?
If you have too much strap in the ratchet you did not get enough slack out before you started to tighten. That big wad of strap is not as strong as just a few wraps around as it will compress easier and could slip sideways if you get very unlucky. It is much harder to release the lock when there is so much fabric under that handle.
I’ve always done it the way Frankie described. And it works great. That’s how they are supposed to work.
The way frankie does it is the recommended way by the manufacturer and the only way you do it if you are in the over the road hauling business. Your way makes it so much harder to get tension and hold it till you can use the ratchet. If you watch how a ratchet works you will always be rolling the fabric onto itself. That is how it provides the tension to hold things. The gears are there to maintain the tension. It is fabric stretching that makes you check your load to re-tighten the straps.
Do like Simple Strap, which saw & picked up from a Trade show of some kind, lol.
But, can never have to many ratchet straps, snatch Block pulleys, come-alongs, bungee, etc.....As there’s a time & a place for each of these “tools”; & they are pretty great. Naturally, when ya need a tie down or strap, can’t find one to save your life.....than when don’t need any; ya seem to have a truck load🤣.
Always make sure I keep couple simple straps, snatch blocks in every vehicle....cuz never know when you’ll need them.
Cheers✌🏼
Great vids keep up the great work. On straps, I go your way front to back. With the extra or tail, your ratchet handle has an eyelette on the hook just put it through and simple knot back on itself. If the ratchet mech breaks its still held on. If your tail is so long it’s still hanging on the ground, use a shorter strap or just tie it up like rock climbing rope and let it hang.
Thanks Andy and thanks for the input!
I got these straps for Christmas. They are made by husky, they have no racket in them. You pull the slack tight and are locked in place. I got these because I’m “ratchet strap challenged” lol great video Stan thank you
Lol, thank you Max!
I use frayed straps as extra for holding branches in the truck or to reduce flapping of tarps with minimum load
As with others, I use Frankie's method - however, some people may prefer to tie the tail up above the ratchet, so whatever works for you...
Some other comments - the ShockStrap hooks - if you guys noticed, it has safety clips on the hooks which should go a long way towards preventing the damn things slipping off when you're trying to run the straps.
I use a dry, silicone based, lubricant on the ratchets - seems to help reduce the sticking that sometimes happens, and also seems to help reduce the rust and crap building up on them.
I don't know if ALL your strap brands do it, but down here the straps will have a trace thread, or other marking, on one side - makes it MUCH easier to run them without putting a twist in them.
One of the main reasons for straps to wear, even fail, is tightening them down across sharp-ish edges and when the load shifts slightly - I made up a bunch of sleeves for the straps from old "layflat" hose* that is a little wider than the stap it's for - just cut 12" (300mm) lengths and slit along the middle of one side, to make a "C" section. You can run the strap loosely, then just slip the sleeve (hose) around the strap where it runs over abrasive sections and tighten down - the big advantages over the usual sleeves are they are cheap (free?) and don't need to be put on before running the strap through the ratchet.
*This sort of stuff if you're not sure what I mean - image.made-in-china.com/202f0j00QTrRhMKPqGqv/Blue-Light-Agriculture-Irrigation-Water-Discharge-PVC-Layflat-Hose-4bar.jpg - you may be able to pick some up from hire or pump suplliers as they should have some worn out, or holed, sections they can't use.
Thank you for the comments!
Enjoy bunches of your videos. I got hooked on your tool show videos. Great information. 👍👍👍
Thanks Darrell, I appreciate you being here !!
I use Frankie's way 👍👍 Both ways are fine and I get what you say about his way doubles the material so less ratchets..BUT....all 3 of us pull the strap as tight as poss before ratcheting so it doesn't need lots of ratcheting anyway...I find I can pull the strap much tighter Frankie's way....Sorry stan..you the man (but not in this case)😁😁😁 ATB..
Personally me I always use the way Frankie showed in the beginning just easier in my opinion
Frankie's way works for me the best , if you have a compactable load you can pull on the tail while keeping tension on it before ratcheting also makes it easier to reuse the tail on another pass or roll and hitch. If our local Garda caught me without correct ladder tie downs he gets his little book out and starts writing , same if the tags are gone off ratchet straps but thats the wonderful safety rule making Ireland we have today
Thanks for the comments Ruari!
Great vid. The shock strap is by far my favorite ratcheting strap, they work great for securing my tractor and ATVs.
Thanks Rockford!
Unfortunately they do not meet DOT regs. Those regs apply to private as well as commercial equipment
How well those simple straps stand up to sun exposure would be my concern.
Stanley -- I saw one of your recent videos that introduced me to the Simple Strap. I found their website and ordered (2) sections of the product. It works phenomenal for my securing my extension and A frame ladders on my roof rack. Great product!
Awesome to hear !
New kind of half hitch?
Cool information proper securing is something a lot of people do not do.
Thanks Steve!
You forgotten one of major points of flat straps, when going across an unsupported distances, please put a twist or two in the strap, too many straps fail because the wind will make the untwisted strap vibrate and resonate wildly to a point it will fail.
Those cheap red rags from harbor freight tied on stop that vibration. Old socks work well too.
The way Frankie does it by putting strap back thru is the way I and most truckers I know do it. One reason I like it that way is you can pull the strap tighter before racheting it also either way you still get the strap doubling on it self so that is not a good argument.
On the first tie down I do it the same way as Frankie. Either way you will still use the same amount of webbing when you tighten it up. The benefits of doing it with the excess out the top is it makes it easier to re tighten if need be.
We tried simple straps and love them. Super handy, fast and secure.
Very nicely done Stan !!! Happy New Year !!! Good to see Frakie again😁😍😀. Rodney
Thank you Rodney, Happy New Year to you too !
I follow Frankee"s lead in rigging the straps then I do loops to take up the slack.
I’ve been doing it frankies way for years and always worked well for me. The way you do it Stan can be hard cause if you’re doing an awkward angle you ratchet down on ur own strap and sometimes impossible to ratchet.
I have ratchet straps come undone from doing it the way you like to. Doing them from the front not only makes them easier to pull snug to the ratchet but can be used to wrap around the ratchet lever to keep it from coming undone. Sorry, but I have never had a problem doing it my way and bet you Frankie hasn't either.
And you never will. When you do over the road it is recommended at least when i started over 20 years ago that you only drive 50 miles after the first tie down and then you quickly check the straps. Nothing wrong with a little caution when you have money on that trailer. You may never find a strap loose but if you do you will be happy you checked. I have had a few straps get a little slack but by checking on them at regular intervals i was able to catch them and had no trouble.
Both ways put the same amount of “strap” onto the binder so it depends on the load you are strapping down
I think Frankie has it right also but I start with the handle closed to save feeding it back through. Also once tight, the strap can be secured over the closed ratchet handle to add extra security to virtually eliminate the possibility of the handle inadvertently releasing.
G'day
Straps are popular because most people don't know how to tie a rope properly.
I use the Frankie method.The other method can make undoing the ratchet easier.
Totally agree you get what you pay for in ratchet straps. The cheap ones fail quick and also your right throw them out if they do get bad.
I've used the rachet straps both ways, but I prefer the way Frankie does it because when you have the extra strap I try to go once around the Bale of the rachet mechanism and the a half hitch to secure it and eliminate the excess from flapping around
I've always done it the way Frankie does it because I can sinch it tight and then ratchet it down, I then use the excess strap length and wrap it around the ratchet to keep it from popping open.
I learned from the YT channel Essential Craftsman that you should put 1 twist in your strap on each side of the load to prevent your strap from fluttering or humming. It works for me.
The best bungee cord I have found and use is Monkey fingers brand adjustable bungee. sizes 6 in. to 60in and 6 in to 120 in. They are excellent for securing tarps or ladders wheel barrows etc. on utility trailers.
Lol i was about to freak out thank you frankie
Another great video, thanks so much, it sure is a time saver rather than doing the testing on my own.
Love to hear it Edward, thanks for watching !
The way you demonstrate still doubles up the strap. There is no way to avoid it rolling on its self with the design, franky is doing it correctly.
nice. so when they fray can you not just burn the edge?
Nice work ,Stan! I’m always learning!!
Love the shock straps, my son and I bought 4 for his lawn business. The only thing I would do different is buy the longer straps.
Thanks for watching George!
What does greasy hands do to the simple strap I don’t know if I would trust it for vehicles
Also when you store your ratchet straps keep them neat and wrapped up. Lubricate the ratchet mechanisms. WD-40 works good as a lubricant. GOD bless!
pyro 323 good point! I keep them lubed up and duct taped in a bundle. Guy taught me that you put the tape side out on first turn and strap doesn’t get sticky from glue!
Wind vibration solved! If you put a half turn in long runs of strap hanging out by themselves in the breeze and not against a load, the wind will be directed through that twist and keep your strap from buzzing. Always keep the twist out of your strap on the load. Badly twisted straps can roll, flat straps don’t.
Nice vid. Appreciate all the attention to the do’s and donts of initial strap use. Your vids are always straight and to the point. Those simple straps look pretty slick. I’ll test a set and put them on my channel too. 👍
Hey thanks, I really appreciate all that !
I like how you're playing the different time zones!
Will the simple strap work if it gets greasy
Oils and grease will.eat those straps. I suspect sun will weaken them as well
did you try the simple strap on a load of lumber in the rear of the truck? Obviously I don't mean an entire bed full, but maybe around 10 or so pieces.
Awesome tips, thanksn A lot of faith in that half hitch eh? also how does this simple strap perform in cold weather?
If it's a rubber strap, I'd say avoid using it in temperatures much below freezing, since it's going to start losing the ductility it needs to develop tension.
Question is, is the simple strap DOT legal? They did away with bungee cords for load securement has to be a ratchet strap. Commercial or personal everyone falls under DOT laws.
Right or wrong, I’ve always done it Stan’s way, never had the ratchet open up on me or loosen, personal preference I guess. The reason I do it Stan’s way is it makes it easier to undo the ratchet when unloading, I can open the mechanism and just pull the extra strap and unravel the center part.
biker932012 if you do it the other way its just as easy to undo it if not easier
ive had it for years the same way as the buddy who walked it and ive never had an issue, and for such a simple tool I don't see any reason to do it differently
I do the same as frankie
Can you cut the simple strap to make two out of one?
they are cut to length so you can get 5 out of 1 or probably even more depending on what you want to secure down.
CJ Smith ok thank you
I’m curious if rapid/simple straps are even DOT compliant. You are responsible for any load you haul and any damage it may cause. I wouldn’t want to find out at a weigh station and DOT officers.
Protect all webbing on ratchet straps from abrasion. Use corner buffers to prevent chafing.
Never use questionable straps. Chemicals and sunlight can degrade ratchet strap webbing.
No matter how you feed that strap, it doubles up upon ratcheting.
I’ve seen guys cut frozen 4” 20 K straps because they couldn’t get them loose in below 0 temps. All they needed to do was pour a small amount of alcohol on the strap winch to get it to release.
Bungy cords you secure a loose hook till you can tension the strap will save you a lot of time in securing loads.
That shock strap is a great strap. I have some rope straps that use the same technology for lighter tie-down situations.
Frankie is right
I've used straps in Stan's way and Frankie's. Stan's way is easier when straps are at chest height or 3" straps, and with extra strap left over you can loop through the handle and tie a knot in it.
So, about the simple strap.. I live in Phoenix (AKA the gates of hell) I am concerned about how long it will last while in our heat and UV exposure? Most everything goes bad faster when exposed to the sun a lot. Your thoughts?
Would of like to see the shock strap used. I've heard the praise n seen the prices, want to see it in action b4 I change over.
Hey Stan it's your friend Rocco from Connecticut always enjoy your videos there appreciated so please keep them coming thanks
Thanks Rocco , more vids to come !
Thanks for the knowledge!
For sure, hope it helps!
I have to agree with everyone else that has commented already that Frankie's method is the correct way. What I have to disagree with you, Stan, and couple of the people that also commented below is where they say one method or the other has less strap being wrapped around the barrel. Straight through will wrap the same amount of strap around the barrel as the through and back. Try it with a junk strap and mark it. The difference will be minor.
I also disagree with the comment that the tag end on the through and back method being able to loosen the ratchet. If the tag can do that, A) You should have secured the tag end and B) that ratchet's a piece of garbage. There should be a security release that when used will allow you to release the tension on the strap and if tightened, it usually takes a bit of force to use that release.
That all being said, great video, keep 'em coming.
As said unless you have terrible junk ratchets the handle can come up all it wants as long as the handle release is not triggered. On all the ones i have ever seen it would be impossible for a strap itself to do that to the ratchet. Most have a double release on the non OTR version.
Oh, a video on the different ways of securing the loose tails would be sweet, thanks.
Also the over/under methods of using the hooks, and other available ends.
Thanks fir the suggestions !!
This is exactly how I do all mine ruclips.net/video/LBGH7IZ5sL0/видео.html
Side note, see what happens when the loose tail gets under a wheel while the business end stays attached to the vehicle. Instant emergency brake! This led to an actual invention for semi trailers used in steep grade areas to stop runaway semi trucks with trailers.
I over strapped it and can’t un ravel the rope.. can someone help!
You should use the Franky way and you can pass the strap back over the handle and use the tail to haul the ratchet tighter. we did it that way for aircraft cargo. but we always half hitched the tail and buried the remainder under the load or taped it.
I use a loop to keep the ratchet strap’s tail from going where it shouldn’t. I hold the tail making three layers going around the split bar. Wish I could take a picture for you
i was once told by a flatbed tractor trailer driver to always put a twist in the strap to keep it from slapping against the load and coming loose.
Stan I have those same straps that Frankie uses I loop it the same as he does and what I do is I ratchet it a 3-4 full ratchets then I take the tail into the ratchet so the tail isn't flopping around then the rest into the handle click it down and no flying tail
13:35 I'm not so sure that the canoo being light makes it worse for the strap. Especially because the canoo is pretty streamlined, I doubt it really catches a lot of wind. The main thing for a strap is to keep stuff from moving on sudden changes in speed, like hard braking. Since the canoo is so light, the forces there will be pretty low. If it's a heavier object, the forces will be much higher. I'm sure the simple strap is nice for tying stuff together, and keeping stuff in place, but I definitely wouldn't use it to strap something down to a car or trailer.
Frankie has it right, you can pull it a lot tighter like that. He did do it the hard way though. All u gotta do is close the ratchet slide the strap through the slot and pull away from the ratchet and then crank it. Much faster that way. I got good at it because im a guy that takes the ratchet off and then neatly rolls up the strap separately. That way when i need it i just grab the tail and throw the roll overhead the load. Im surprised at how little they know with the field they are in
I use Frankies method here in Hawaii!
another great review. ty Stan
Thank you !!
THAT FUNNY STAN ...FRANKY DID IT RIGHT ...LOOK CLOSE TO THE VID YOU PROVED IT ... GLAD TO SEE YOU CAN STILL LEARN ...LUV YA BUDDY ...GOOD JOB FRANKY I LIKE SHORT ONES TO NEVER THROUGH ONE AWAY ...SHORT OR LONG...PS ON STRAPS THE BIGGER THE BEDDER OVER KILL IS GO ON STRAPPING THINGS DOWN...
I have had difficulty with ratchet straps on smooth surfaces like 6” pvc when wet I prefer to use some sort of rubber to keep my load secured
simple strap would work really well for that
Didn't know it was so difficult for people.
It's not.. It's just a reason to sell a simple strap ad.
I prefer Stan’s way simply because you can lift the handle to release the tension and then pull the tail to completely release the load. I would not hesitate to use Frankie’s way either if the configuration of the load would make it more beneficial. As long as the slack is out in the beginning there would be little to no difference in how much strap is actually rolled up on the ratchet. I wouldn’t say either way is actually wrong.
What about the cold! We seen the wet and warm but what about the freezing temps
i used to tie down aluminum and steel coils on well trailers. you should see how frayed our straps were. good thing they were covered up by a Conestoga tarp
Can anyone tell me why my chains would come loose when I tie down my skid steer on my trailer? Just a short 2 minute drive and they will come loose
Chains are best for heavy equipment. Tiedowns are to light weight.
@@Dirtmonkey hi Stan, thanks for the reply. I do use chains but they come loose while I'm driving and I don't know why the ratcheting binders would do that?
I use Frankie method always had good luck doing it that way.
You could have said this is sponsored by .... the strap I am about to show 10 million times. LOL Looks like a good strap
That rubber strap performed well after sawdust and being wet. I bet if it I were to encounter any type of mud the friction just would not be there. I just would not trust it for most of our uses. Banding copper pipe and furring strips together to facilitate ease of carrying by hand I have no problem with. Wouldn’t trust it to secure most cargo to be transported on public roadways. They still have their place for some situations. Shockstrap winner hands down.
Dang you guys are making using a ratchet strap way too hard, so this is how to do it. #1- run your strap over your load, #2- then look at the ratchet end and with it folded together, the wrapping bar with the slot should be either 90% or close to 90% when closed so you can feed the strap through easily, #3- slip strap through slot, and pull tight, #4 now finish tightening with the rachet, #5 take loos leftover strap and tie a couple of half hitches over and around the tight and closed rachet as an extra safety so rachet stays locked, now fold up and tie off any loose strap so it can`t fly around and get caught in tires or anything else. Now when you want to remove the strap simply untie the loose part, unlock the rachet all the way {we call this breaking the rachets back}. with the rachet fully opened {back broken there is a larger cam that releases the rachet brake-lock, then hold the rachet from the back and pull to you and the strap will just roll out the overlapping wrap and then slid right off. It is also easier to pull the strap end right out if while you leave the strap end hoked on load and just walk back while pulling the rachet from the middle of the back. I B.C Canada it is Transport hiways law that the strap once tight be tied over the locked rachet which signifies you have it locked. If you have lots of extra strap once rachet is locked and has a couple of half hitches proving it is safe i like to take the end and tie it on load so it hangs from load off back as an extra attention-getter, especially on over length loads.
I think the way Frankie does the straps is easier. I like being able to pull it tight from the front. Then ratcheting it super tight.
Great video
Thank you Ronald !