Hi Ivica thank you very much for the amazing videos on your channel your explanations are so useful I would like to ask you something if you would be so kind to answer. I've replaced the O rings on my EHA but it is leaking and I cannot understand where this leak comes from I tried to remove the adjustment screw but I cannot succeed unscrewing it is there a possibility that the little O ring may produce an external leak? As I have the fuel dripping like one drop every 2 seconds should I change the EHA itself? Thank you very much Ivica Pascal
Hello, at first try with external o-rings. If that doesn't help, try with the internal one. Remember where the screw was by turning it as far as it can go and count the revolution you made - once you turn it back the screw will be there where it was. Unscrew fully the 2mm allen and try replacing the little o-ring. Also measure the differential pressure. If the pressure won't go above 0.2bar difference then the eha is useless and must be replaced.
Remember the original position of the screw, remove it and buy a lighter Inside of it you have an o-ring that fits the one of the EHA. ruclips.net/video/I38ezJ2fzD4/видео.html
Can you please tell me the exact size of the small flathead screw and washer that covers the 2 hex screw? Is this a brass screw? I wasn't able to find the exact size in any specifications diagrams. I messed up and lost the center screw and washer and need to buy placement. I had to buy a new EHA but would like to keep this old one as a backup. Thank you for your help!
Hello, can you help me please? When I adjust EHA to 0.4 bar presure difference, and air-meter-plate to 1.9mm gap, I get good idle. But when I accelerate, engine goes too lean after 3000rpm, no power. If I screw the EHA-adjust-screw extra 90degrees in, I get bad idle(even when I readjust air-meter- plate screw a bit countercklocwise), but I get more power after 3000rpm, but still not 100% powet as I expect it to be. What could be wrong? I get 19.3 Ohm from EHA, when tested.
Never do the readjustments on the EHA the way you think. Every EHA valve will give you 19ohm resistance. More important thing is to achieve other parameters by measuring current in mA. In general, the mA have to fluctuate -3 and 0 once the car is at the operating temperature. Watch this video ENTIRELY and do as I say!!! ruclips.net/video/1c2dlfabnv0/видео.html
If you haven't been readjusting the screw don't do it. If you have set it to get the fluctuation 6-7.3V. If you have no lambda then let it be steady 6.65V
@@mercedeske wow you even remember that I have no lambda on my car from factory. You're amazing! By 6.5-7.3v do you mean the duty cycle? I just checked the duty cycle at x11 after warm up, it is at 2.8v. Then I adjusted the mixture screw in fine increments both ways, it has NO affect on the duty cycle at all. I am also suspecting my air flow potentiometer, tested pin 1 and pin 2 resistance with engine off connector off, and it starts at 1.6 kOhms. As plate is pushed in, resistance rose but then went to infinity and then came back to some value till about 11 kOhms. When plate was released, it comes back down and settled at a new value of 1.9 kOhms. This may be why my duty cycle is also very lean. Sorry for dumping info, I'm following your other videos also. 🙈
I have been speaking about that, 6.6mm. In order to be 100% sure, you will have to measure the mA on the EHA and the goal is to get the fluctuation -3 and 0 mA once the car is at the operating temperature.
Hello Ivica What's the best way to adjust mixture when going from sea level to new location at 1100m altitude? Make mixture leaner with mixture screw or leaner on EHA? Thanks in advance.
Hello, Cino.The best way is not to touch anything😃 Just adjust the mixture as it's supposed to. If you have a California car, then you have an altitude sensor which is going to regulate that, if not don't touch anything! That's my advice to you. Happy Mercedesing!
@@mercedeske All right thank you very much. I have a normal German version, so unfortunately no altitude sensor. I didn't touch anything: didn't notice anything at 1100m altitude where I live now. Meanwhile driven about 10.000kms. Performance is same, fuel economy is good. Spark plug colours are perfect. Only thing that changed is the economy gauge at idle, is now 3-4mm to the right. Normally at sea level it was all left. Thanks again, your help is much appreciated 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Hi My current fuel Pressure is 5 Bars with valve closed and 5.4 Bars with valve open. Does that mean my Fuel Pump, EHA and Fuel Distributor are all OK? I have a W124 M103 engine with a fluttering idle. Keep up the great work. Cheers
Does the EHA measure fuel pressure or fuel mixture. I have seen you video on the potentiometer on measuring resistance but how do you measure voltage? Thanks in advance
Hello. Just install the EHA. The EHA is already adjusted so if you have a good fuel pump you have no reason to mess around with this. Your EHA is factory adjusted to be as it is supposed to be! Many greetings!
Yes, they are interchangeable because the working principal on all of them is practically IDENTICAL! Just note the distance from the top to the adjustment screw on your old one and leave it so much on the new one.
Hello, i set differential pressure to 4,8 bars, main pressure is 5.2 bars. After this calibration, i cant start. With bridged pump reley, i can hear injectors, when i press airflow plate. I set the mixture like you said, nothing, tried to rich it, tried to lean in and still nothing. Before this calibration, car was able to run well, just acceleration was slow and black smoke (there was no differential pressure, 5,2-5,2 bars) Do you have any tip please?
One more thing. If your system pressure is below 5.5bar that means that you have either a bad fuel pump(check valve) or the fuel pressure regulator. 5.2bar for system pressure is way too low! With 4.8bar control pressure you can't expect anything better than that!
Hi. I have a problem with my w124. 1995 there is no live in the all fuse box and the fuel pump is not working because it is not getting any power supply. Could you please help. Many thanks
Hi, there is not much I can tell. '95 W124 is not KE-JETRONIC, second - at first check all fuses, that’s basics, check the furl pump relay or something else that is supposed to drive the pump. That's everything I can say.
Sorry not sure I understood correctly. Just 6.8mm and the EHA is sure to be adjusted properly, or do i need to test the pressures? 88 300TE running a bit rich (smell) with lambda adjusted properly. Have new injectors, tune up parts etc, also once in a while it will die... seems to be loading up with the gas, usually ok tho just a bit smelly. Thank you!
@@mercedeske Thank you. I'm having a little trouble here lol. Not really sure I have the right gauge set-up. I have a gauge with on/off valve, it's on the system pressure side of the gauge. But with this set up, with the valve open I'm not really getting a differential, I'm getting a mix of the system and control pressure. I don't see how this can work properly... seems I need a gauge with 2 shut off valves so I can isolate the two different pressures and read them separately, or two gauges hooked up at the same time??? Sorry for the long comment, any thoughts appreciated!
@@mercedeske I just flipped the gauge set around a couple times so I could isolate each port with the valve, running pretty nice but having trouble getting normal numbers for the lambda. Measuring voltage and getting 2's and 3's, can't get up to 6.75? Also, they say "measure voltage" I'm going to assume they mean AC? Was running pretty rich for quite a while probably better check my O2 sensor. Thanks
Hola. Compruebe los cables en el TPS. Según recuerdo, el cable verde/azul es para el acelerador completamente abierto. Verifique el funcionamiento del acelerador completamente abierto si obtiene continuidad cuando el acelerador está completamente abierto. Si todo está bien y los síntomas persisten, borre el código. Después de leer ese código, inserte el cable durante unos 10 segundos y retírelo. Así es como borrarás el código.
Hey, me again just started the car cold and died again, worked well after 15seconds of keeping gas. (I noticed that the eha cable connector was wet of fuel, can that cause it?)
@@Maitokuski I don't want to demotivate you, but the o rings are seldom the cause of the leak. You can verify with your phone camera pointed at the EHA and make a video. When you turn ignition on ( engine off! ) you will see the EHA leaking out of the little holes on the EHA. If so, you will be needing an all new EHA. If you can miss the money, buy new. New ones come with new o rings and new screws. Good luck.
Guten Abend. The adjusting screw should be at 6.8mm measured from the top. No turns. The point of this video was to show you that this is a completely false procedure. Und jetzt auf Deutsch - Dieses Video soll es demonstieren, dass keine Justierung vom EHS nötig ist in dem Sinne, dass kein Drehen der Einstellschraube für 5,6,7 oder wer weiß wieviel Mal nötig ist, um die Einstellschraube sowie das EHS zu justieren. Nur mit dem Manometer kann die Justierung, falls nötig überhaupt, erledig werden. Das EHS ist vom Hersteller auf 6.8mm eingestellt und soll nicht gedreht werden. Das war die Mitteilung des Videos. LG und "Gutes Benzen" ;-)
Su nombre lo dice todo. El sensor tiene que informar a la ECU que el acelerador está completamente abierto para que la ECU pueda enriquecer la mezcla correctamente.
En la EHA (si quieres hacerlo para todos los cilindros por igual). Simplemente retire el EHA y luego desenrosque el tornillo de latón (debajo tiene un tornillo Allen de 2 mm), gírelo ocho vueltas en sentido contrario a las agujas del reloj y vuelva a colocar todo como estaba.
@@mercedeskemuchas gracias agradecido hermano si UD me pudiera suministrar un diagrama de la sincronización del árbol de leva con el cigüeñal del Mercedes 300 E 86 sería de mucha ayuda ya q acá es muy difícil conseguir ese diagrama
Not quite, this regulates the differential pressure, it fine tunes the pressure, increases or decreases the fuel flow towards the injectors. Anyways it has to be at 6.8mm distance from the top. That's how it is calibrated when new. This screw doesn't have to be readjusted. In this video I just wanted to see if the stories about its calibration are true or not. Don't touch this screw and everything will be fine.
kami masih memiliki w124 230 e tapi untuk pemakaian dalam kota 1;5 dan luar kota 1;6 memang tempat kami pegunungan dan tan tanjakan apakah wajar kunsumsi bahan bakar yang demikian .tapi ini dilihat sari busi tidak lagi berwarna putih .apakah ini terlalu boros , berikan kami solusi.(indomesia)
@@zulfikarfahmi8687 I don't understand what 1;5 means. Normal consumption for the 230e is 12l/100km(19.6mpg US) city driving, at 90km/h 7l/100km(31.36mpg US) and at 120km/h 9l/100km(26.13mpg US). This is according to the factory and if you live in the hills then the consumption can be higher. For how much, I can't tell. I think I made my car have 13l/100km consumption city driving(18mpg US). If there is gasoline on the spark plugs then you either have a rich mixture or you have to replace the injectors. That much I can tell. Greetings from Serbia.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Brilliant!
Just did this on my 190e 2.3-16
The car is awake!
Glad to hear that. Happy Mercedesing 🍀 👍🏻 💪🏻
thanks a lot... this explanation was really helpful
My pleasure. Happy Mercedesing 🍀 😊 😃
Thanks ! 👍 I will certainly do the test for you with my pressure gauge 😉
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 and happy Mercedesing 🍀🍀🍀
You are the guru of the benz
Thanks a lot 😁 Happy Mercedesing 😃 😊
Hi Ivica thank you very much for the amazing videos on your channel your explanations are so useful I would like to ask you something if you would be so kind to answer. I've replaced the O rings on my EHA but it is leaking and I cannot understand where this leak comes from
I tried to remove the adjustment screw but I cannot succeed unscrewing it is there a possibility that the little O ring may produce an external leak? As I have the fuel dripping like one drop every 2 seconds should I change the EHA itself? Thank you very much Ivica Pascal
Hello, at first try with external o-rings. If that doesn't help, try with the internal one. Remember where the screw was by turning it as far as it can go and count the revolution you made - once you turn it back the screw will be there where it was. Unscrew fully the 2mm allen and try replacing the little o-ring. Also measure the differential pressure. If the pressure won't go above 0.2bar difference then the eha is useless and must be replaced.
Hello my friend, I have the internal ring of the AHE damaged and not working. How can I fix it?😡😡😡😡
Remember the original position of the screw, remove it and buy a lighter Inside of it you have an o-ring that fits the one of the EHA.
ruclips.net/video/I38ezJ2fzD4/видео.html
Can you please tell me the exact size of the small flathead screw and washer that covers the 2 hex screw? Is this a brass screw? I wasn't able to find the exact size in any specifications diagrams. I messed up and lost the center screw and washer and need to buy placement. I had to buy a new EHA but would like to keep this old one as a backup. Thank you for your help!
Have 1987SE Alloptions..Standing in May garage abaut 20+ gears ...Mayby Pott in Turbo...
Now you have a chance to revive it with a help of my channel! :D
Hello, can you help me please?
When I adjust EHA to 0.4 bar presure difference, and air-meter-plate to 1.9mm gap, I get good idle. But when I accelerate, engine goes too lean after 3000rpm, no power. If I screw the EHA-adjust-screw extra 90degrees in, I get bad idle(even when I readjust air-meter- plate screw a bit countercklocwise), but I get more power after 3000rpm, but still not 100% powet as I expect it to be. What could be wrong? I get 19.3 Ohm from EHA, when tested.
System pressure is stable 5.5bar upper, around 5.1bar lower.
Never do the readjustments on the EHA the way you think. Every EHA valve will give you 19ohm resistance. More important thing is to achieve other parameters by measuring current in mA. In general, the mA have to fluctuate -3 and 0 once the car is at the operating temperature. Watch this video ENTIRELY and do as I say!!!
ruclips.net/video/1c2dlfabnv0/видео.html
👌👌 again good job.
Thanks my bro.👌🏻👏🏻👍🏻💪🏻🍀Happy Mercedesing 😃
I adjusted the EHA clockwise about 0.5 turn. Do I have to adjust the Air Fuel Mixture screw afterwards, counter clockwise or clockwise?
If you haven't been readjusting the screw don't do it. If you have set it to get the fluctuation 6-7.3V. If you have no lambda then let it be steady 6.65V
@@mercedeske wow you even remember that I have no lambda on my car from factory. You're amazing! By 6.5-7.3v do you mean the duty cycle? I just checked the duty cycle at x11 after warm up, it is at 2.8v. Then I adjusted the mixture screw in fine increments both ways, it has NO affect on the duty cycle at all. I am also suspecting my air flow potentiometer, tested pin 1 and pin 2 resistance with engine off connector off, and it starts at 1.6 kOhms. As plate is pushed in, resistance rose but then went to infinity and then came back to some value till about 11 kOhms. When plate was released, it comes back down and settled at a new value of 1.9 kOhms. This may be why my duty cycle is also very lean. Sorry for dumping info, I'm following your other videos also. 🙈
@@shaazy If you haven't replaced the potentiometer, replace it, because no way that modern potentiometer can give you so high value.
Danke well.
You are welcome!
M103 260e aracim var eha valfi kac mm olmalidir?
I have been speaking about that, 6.6mm. In order to be 100% sure, you will have to measure the mA on the EHA and the goal is to get the fluctuation -3 and 0 mA once the car is at the operating temperature.
@@mercedeske thank you
The power of the ke jetronic is of were do l like for it
Hello Ivica
What's the best way to adjust mixture when going from sea level to new location at 1100m altitude?
Make mixture leaner with mixture screw or leaner on EHA?
Thanks in advance.
Hello, Cino.The best way is not to touch anything😃 Just adjust the mixture as it's supposed to. If you have a California car, then you have an altitude sensor which is going to regulate that, if not don't touch anything! That's my advice to you. Happy Mercedesing!
@@mercedeske All right thank you very much. I have a normal German version, so unfortunately no altitude sensor. I didn't touch anything: didn't notice anything at 1100m altitude where I live now. Meanwhile driven about 10.000kms. Performance is same, fuel economy is good. Spark plug colours are perfect. Only thing that changed is the economy gauge at idle, is now 3-4mm to the right. Normally at sea level it was all left. Thanks again, your help is much appreciated 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
@@cino4919 Glad ti know that. Happy Mercedesing 😃
What will the fuel consumption be?
That's something you will see yourself as you calibrate the EHA as per specs.
@@mercedeske fuel consumption is high. what should you pay attention to?
@turalsalahov2544 sensors, mechanical part
@@mercedeske what sensor?
@@turalsalahov2544 Lambda, potenciometer, coolant temperature sensor.
Hi
My current fuel Pressure is 5 Bars with valve closed and 5.4 Bars with valve open.
Does that mean my Fuel Pump, EHA and Fuel Distributor are all OK?
I have a W124 M103 engine with a fluttering idle.
Keep up the great work.
Cheers
Hi and thanks. Yes, that's normal. As for the idle - it can come from the injectors, potentiometer, lambda...
Replaced all Injectors and there's no O2 Sensor. Hence no Lambda. Will have a look at potentiometer and report back.
Cheers
Does the EHA measure fuel pressure or fuel mixture.
I have seen you video on the potentiometer on measuring resistance but how do you measure voltage?
Thanks in advance
@@brianalcock Do you mean the last video on the potentiometer while it was off the car?
@Fix your Mercedes
No. When it's hooked up. I thought I saw an Video where you Mark the potentiometer and move it slightly. Am I correct?
Cheer
I have a 92 r129 300sl, idle is all over the place. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Check your icv, the idle control valve.
Thanks..
My pleasure. Happy Mercedesing
Hello I just got a brand new Bosch E.H.A valve . Do I go ahead and install it or I have to do what you showing on the video ? Thank you
Hello. Just install the EHA. The EHA is already adjusted so if you have a good fuel pump you have no reason to mess around with this. Your EHA is factory adjusted to be as it is supposed to be!
Many greetings!
Is the same EHA in 2,0 E and others.....please a part num, video¡¡¡¡ I cant find spares by the numbers
Yes, they are interchangeable because the working principal on all of them is practically IDENTICAL! Just note the distance from the top to the adjustment screw on your old one and leave it so much on the new one.
Hello, i set differential pressure to 4,8 bars, main pressure is 5.2 bars. After this calibration, i cant start. With bridged pump reley, i can hear injectors, when i press airflow plate. I set the mixture like you said, nothing, tried to rich it, tried to lean in and still nothing. Before this calibration, car was able to run well, just acceleration was slow and black smoke (there was no differential pressure, 5,2-5,2 bars)
Do you have any tip please?
Look, with equal pressures the car won't even start. IF your pressure is below 5.3bar, check your fuel pressure regulator.
@@mercedeske there is a good flow, when i press that airflow plate.
I got m102.962 engine
@@asineprestanou5221 That's a W124 2L engine.
One more thing. If your system pressure is below 5.5bar that means that you have either a bad fuel pump(check valve) or the fuel pressure regulator. 5.2bar for system pressure is way too low! With 4.8bar control pressure you can't expect anything better than that!
Hi. I have a problem with my w124. 1995 there is no live in the all fuse box and the fuel pump is not working because it is not getting any power supply. Could you please help. Many thanks
Hi, there is not much I can tell. '95 W124 is not KE-JETRONIC, second - at first check all fuses, that’s basics, check the furl pump relay or something else that is supposed to drive the pump. That's everything I can say.
Sorry not sure I understood correctly. Just 6.8mm and the EHA is sure to be adjusted properly, or do i need to test the pressures? 88 300TE running a bit rich (smell) with lambda adjusted properly. Have new injectors, tune up parts etc, also once in a while it will die... seems to be loading up with the gas, usually ok tho just a bit smelly. Thank you!
Measure the pressures. EHA must be always readjusted with the pressure gauge on. 6.8 is factory adjustment.
@@mercedeske Thank you. Found a nice used Matco set for CIS on ebay.
@@mercedeske Thank you. I'm having a little trouble here lol. Not really sure I have the right gauge set-up. I have a gauge with on/off valve, it's on the system pressure side of the gauge. But with this set up, with the valve open I'm not really getting a differential, I'm getting a mix of the system and control pressure. I don't see how this can work properly... seems I need a gauge with 2 shut off valves so I can isolate the two different pressures and read them separately, or two gauges hooked up at the same time??? Sorry for the long comment, any thoughts appreciated!
@@RastusMcbride I'm soon going to be making that video, so don't worry.😉
@@mercedeske I just flipped the gauge set around a couple times so I could isolate each port with the valve, running pretty nice but having trouble getting normal numbers for the lambda. Measuring voltage and getting 2's and 3's, can't get up to 6.75? Also, they say "measure voltage" I'm going to assume they mean AC? Was running pretty rich for quite a while probably better check my O2 sensor. Thanks
Hola, me puedes ayudar tengo un mercedes 300e 87 y tengo codigo 2
Hola. Compruebe los cables en el TPS. Según recuerdo, el cable verde/azul es para el acelerador completamente abierto. Verifique el funcionamiento del acelerador completamente abierto si obtiene continuidad cuando el acelerador está completamente abierto. Si todo está bien y los síntomas persisten, borre el código. Después de leer ese código, inserte el cable durante unos 10 segundos y retírelo. Así es como borrarás el código.
Hey, me again just started the car cold and died again, worked well after 15seconds of keeping gas. (I noticed that the eha cable connector was wet of fuel, can that cause it?)
If so, is there replacement seals or do i need new eha
@@Maitokuski If 2 green o-rings don't help you will have to by a new/another eha.
@@mercedeske do you have number for the green seals
@@Maitokuski No but you can easily find them.
@@Maitokuski I don't want to demotivate you, but the o rings are seldom the cause of the leak. You can verify with your phone camera pointed at the EHA and make a video. When you turn ignition on ( engine off! ) you will see the EHA leaking out of the little holes on the EHA. If so, you will be needing an all new EHA. If you can miss the money, buy new. New ones come with new o rings and new screws. Good luck.
Contacto del acelerador completamente abierto
Hallo guten Abend،Jatronic should be seven laps or six laps please
Guten Abend. The adjusting screw should be at 6.8mm measured from the top. No turns. The point of this video was to show you that this is a completely false procedure.
Und jetzt auf Deutsch - Dieses Video soll es demonstieren, dass keine Justierung vom EHS nötig ist in dem Sinne, dass kein Drehen der Einstellschraube für 5,6,7 oder wer weiß wieviel Mal nötig ist, um die Einstellschraube sowie das EHS zu justieren. Nur mit dem Manometer kann die Justierung, falls nötig überhaupt, erledig werden. Das EHS ist vom Hersteller auf 6.8mm eingestellt und soll nicht gedreht werden. Das war die Mitteilung des Videos.
LG und "Gutes Benzen" ;-)
okay thank you👍
Mercedes 190e w201 Pt 2 fuel distribution test I need to buy
Que es contacto abierto del acelerador mercedes 300e 87
Su nombre lo dice todo. El sensor tiene que informar a la ECU que el acelerador está completamente abierto para que la ECU pueda enriquecer la mezcla correctamente.
Cómo se reduce el pase de gasolina al dosificador
En la EHA (si quieres hacerlo para todos los cilindros por igual). Simplemente retire el EHA y luego desenrosque el tornillo de latón (debajo tiene un tornillo Allen de 2 mm), gírelo ocho vueltas en sentido contrario a las agujas del reloj y vuelva a colocar todo como estaba.
@@mercedeskemuchas gracias agradecido hermano si UD me pudiera suministrar un diagrama de la sincronización del árbol de leva con el cigüeñal del Mercedes 300 E 86 sería de mucha ayuda ya q acá es muy difícil conseguir ese diagrama
apakah ini pengatur kunsumsi bahan bakar
Not quite, this regulates the differential pressure, it fine tunes the pressure, increases or decreases the fuel flow towards the injectors. Anyways it has to be at 6.8mm distance from the top. That's how it is calibrated when new. This screw doesn't have to be readjusted. In this video I just wanted to see if the stories about its calibration are true or not. Don't touch this screw and everything will be fine.
kami masih memiliki w124 230 e tapi untuk pemakaian dalam kota 1;5 dan luar kota 1;6 memang tempat kami pegunungan dan tan tanjakan apakah wajar kunsumsi bahan bakar yang demikian .tapi ini dilihat sari busi tidak lagi berwarna putih .apakah ini terlalu boros , berikan kami solusi.(indomesia)
@@zulfikarfahmi8687 I don't understand what 1;5 means. Normal consumption for the 230e is 12l/100km(19.6mpg US) city driving, at 90km/h 7l/100km(31.36mpg US) and at 120km/h 9l/100km(26.13mpg US). This is according to the factory and if you live in the hills then the consumption can be higher. For how much, I can't tell. I think I made my car have 13l/100km consumption city driving(18mpg US). If there is gasoline on the spark plugs then you either have a rich mixture or you have to replace the injectors. That much I can tell. Greetings from Serbia.
saya sangat berterima kasih atas penjelasannya
@@zulfikarfahmi8687 Dengan senang hati, terima kasih atas komentarnya! ;-)