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20240626210309 1
#106 fixing my lathe centers centerline dimension so that i can make good parts harley tatro machine 
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Hello Tatro, there are many variables and factors to consider before you start making tapper adjustments to an engine lathe.
The lathe first has to leveled end to end and side to side front to back.
The ground ways need to be checked for wear especially from the chuck out about 4 feet where most of the wear takes place. The head spindle also needs to be checked for T.I.R sometimes the bearings begin to wear due to run time over the years.
Then you have tool deflection, carbide “push’s” material off. High speed tooling cuts the material with less deflection.
As far as repeatability, the above factors I mentioned will get you heading in the right direction. You are working with a very short piece of material there only about 9 inches or so.. but when you try turning a long piece of material say about 4 to 6 feet or longer you will have to check for tapper all over again. That means turning a short band about one inch wide at the tail stock end, then crank your carriage near the chuck area and turn another band taking the exact same of material off. Then check the O.D sizes on both bands you cut. That will tell you how much you have to adjust your tail stock with your dial indicator to adjust the tapper.
Then you have feed and speed that also creates different amounts of tool deflection and of course using rough cuts and finishing cuts that helps in repeatability and finish you desire. Keeping the veneer ways adjusted properly, not to loose! So that the tool won’t get pulled into the work piece. Maybe final polishing to your exact dimension as well. Of course you have steady rests and follow rests as options. Internal boring is another ballgame in regard to tapper and finish.
Good to see making things work, we all learn from each other no matter how much experience we have. Most people don’t realize how complex and involved precision machining is. They haven’t a clue! Great channel Tatro.
i very rarly will cut anything longer then what i just cut. i also put the tailstock center out where it would be if i was going to use it for this type job. i do think about all the variables before i do things.
the only variables i didn't think about was the bed flex from my adjustable lathe leveling bolt feet. that might help on the unadjustable .00175 head error in my 1st bar stock cutting.
just remember, this is an old 70's cheapass import lathe that was not all the good when it was new. its hard to do precision machining when you are using unprecision machining tools like this lathe is. i can only over come so much as a skilled machinest.
tatro
@TatroMachine yep, EXACTLY my same thoughts Keenan
Hey, Keenan, if you're incredibly lucky, your tailstock ram ended up parallel to the ways when you were done shimming. If not, then whenever you extend the ram more or less than you had it during the adjustment process, it's gonna' change where the tip of the tailstock center is relative to the ways. Also, since you started out with the headstock not parallel to the ways, the center that you cut into the workpiece is going to move around relative to the ways whenever you have a different length workpiece. I know from experience that shimming a machine tool can be incredibly frustrating...I hope the adjustments you did work for you. Thanks for the videos!
that is why i set everything in about where most of my cutting is. i do think the bed is twisted and i need to deal with that next. then redo the centering again.
tatro
Hello Tatro, I have a question not pertaining to this particular topic. My question is, how do you polarize the generator on a XLCH since it has no battery? My official Harley Davidson manual only covers the XLH which has a different regulator. I polarized my XLH generator many times, but never my XLCH.
And thoughts on this topic? Thank you Tatro, great channel.
just hook a battery into the system and do it just like the book says too.
tatro
@@TatroMachine Thank you Tatro, my initial thought was exactly the same as yours. BUT my XLCH regulator has 5 connections, ground, D+ that goes to A on the generator. DF that goes to F on my Generator and two others that feed the headlight and taillight.
My stock XLH has different regulator terminal markings such as BATT , ARM and FLD. Thanks again Tatro.
flash the battery between A and GND
thats not how i do it. i ground the field and then flash the A' from the battery. its probably the same but i do it my way.
tatro
You're working this LOW GRADE piece of machinery into usable equipment. Drill and tap the four corners and lock the S.O.B. DOWN...
Unfortunately that’s not how it works. Heavy machinery sits on shim packs to adjust the level end to end and side to side. If the concrete pad is freshly poured, it settles at different stages over time and you have to re shim the machine to re level it. Even when sitting on old concrete pads you still have to check level and re shim from time to time. This is done on all heavy machinery including printing presses where being level and Tran is critical.
@@Michael-st1hl I was talking about the 4 corners of the tailstock. Every time you unlock it to move the tailstock, the two piece---- of shit is at risk of failing again. bolt the two together now while it's dialed in.
i am on rubber pads. that is why it moves around some.
tatro
that is why i pull it down to the lathe 1st, then adjust the side screws. and yes, it is a pile of crap.
tatro
The tail stock has to remain adjustable because of the different lengths of work pieces your positioning at different positions on your Ways. No matter how level your lathe is, you still have to adjust your tapper because of tool deflection as it relates to the type material and the O. D size of the work piece. The smaller the O.D the more deflection you have especially with longer lengths of material where you need a follow rest or a steady rest. But the tail stock is constantly being adjusted at different positions on the ways. Then there is the different grades of material your cutting, cold roll, hot roll, leaded stock, TGP, 1040, aluminum, stainless steel, Delron, on and on. Feed and speed, heat transfer, type of carbide or high speed tooling you’re using. So many factors to deal with and consider when controlling a precision tolerance, finish and tapper in the work piece. Also your compound ways need to be adjusted properly. I don’t care how good a or bad a lathe is.. you’re always making adjustments and using your skills to make a precision part and repeatability for a one off or production set ups.