Hodinkee Radio: Watches & Wonders 2024 | Day 1: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Tudor
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- Опубликовано: 8 апр 2024
- In our first episode from Geneva, Ben, Danny, and Malaika join me to discuss new releases from Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Tudor. GMTs headline the novelties from Rolex and Tudor. Rolex has brought its black-and-grey bezel to a steel GMT, while Tudor gave what so many have asked for - a Black Bay 58 GMT. We also talk about what it means that it’s a slower year for Rolex, that Tudor is becoming the Black Bay brand, and the new complicated stuff from Patek. We start it all off by chatting about the Le Mans Daytona in white gold (now discontinued!) and yellow gold (new!).
Thanks to Lucid Motors for sponsoring this week’s live recordings of Hodinkee Radio from Geneva.
To learn more about the Lucid visit: lucidmotors.com/
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Развлечения
That Deepsea is the Invicta killer.
😂
Hahaa
Gold brick
Man, Tony's such a gift to the Hodinkee team.
Ben - $100k watch. $100 suit!
That grey and black bezel GMT Master would be fire, if made from Titanium.
Right? With titanium grey insert. Kill the ceramic already.
Oh that’s a great idea
I would like to see a red GMT hand - or any color that pops; the green is too dark on a blk dial.
I know Ben’s outfit has been a topic of discussion, personally i love that he is wearing a tie it saddens me that the traditional tie is disappearing from menswear, way to go Mr. C!
At 5:25 Tony asks Ben "what is your headline on Rolex"? Ben probably wanted to answer " I own a discontinued Rolex Lemans in white gold and given the extremely short run I am a very rich man!" But he didn't say it...
Ben is a multimillionaire. At that level exclusivity is what counts
These New York folks must be dying to say something controversial. They are just so incredibly predictable and safe.
This was a great panel
Amazing production quality to come out so quickly.
Tudor is the new Rolex steel sports line
Love Tony he’s a legend!
guys very entertaining and informative thanks :)
Love the theme music for Hodinkee Radio
Love Danny, but man….you need some sleep 😅 Amazing effort on all of the content. I’m sure the whole team will sleep well on the flight back to New York
Im worried Danny is developing a “reverse panda” look of himself 😅
Always appreciate these episodes! Great seeing a live review from W&W! ⌚
That 1908 should have been called “The Guilloche Master” haha! Btw where’s Mr. Stacey? Would love to hear his thoughts on the BB58 GMT afterall, he was the one who got me to pull the trigger on the OG BB GMT in the past.
With his iconic “a week on the wrist”?
@@Rafa-yw8nu indeed, that was legendary. I hope he’d get to do a sequel with the 58 GMT as the star!
I know it´s a podcast but would be nice if you put pictures or videos of the watches you mentione!!!
I love Tudor. Own a few. They make some fantastic watches. But I agree, the naming convention & BB lineup needs some serious consolidation & cleanup. Blackbay, Blackbay 58, 54, 41, Heritage etc etc. Housekeeping!!
Love the conversation, thanks for publishing and sharing. Great Team, good vibes!
That quartz dual time Aquanaut looks so nice!! Dial looks like the OG Aquanaut and the size is 38.5mm. Hopefully they release a mechanical steel version in the following years.
Nobody has a problem with the gilt on the BB58, why is it suddenly an issue with the GMT?
Because the Pepsi looks so much better, they just wanted a smaller version of it.
A Black and white BB58 would have been a huge hit too.
i haven't bought a BB58 specifically because it's not monochrome. To date, the choice is gilt or nothing. Some people will choose the gilt, but I think Tudor would sell far more units if it was monochrome.
Because the gilt on the GMT is a different tone than the gilt on the 58
The gilt dial on the BB58 has always been what kept me from wanting one.
Many of us have a problem with the gilt on the BB58, especially the gilt bezel markers (like the GMT).
In fact I’d wager that most people who end up selling their BB58 do so due to the gilt and how far it skews the watch towards warm/gold watch vibes.
I wish the GMT black and grey had a red GMT hand rather than green
The new Rolex black & grey bezel GMT should have had a RED GMT hand and RED text..! black, grey and red work so well together..!! and would have made this new version so cool..!
You beat me to it. The watch has a GMT complication so a green on blk make it too tough to see unless in a well lit area.
I'm not a fan of seeing "watch journalists" bend over backwards to say anything nice about the Rolex pieces. it just smacks of a lack of objectivity. they're holding back what they really want to say. it's hard for me to take seriously what industry insiders clearly personally and in business beholden to Rolex have to say about...Rolex.
Sorry bro, but this is how you make the big bucks
I wonder if watch historians and collectors will look back at Rolex's announcements this year, and think that this is the year where Rolex declared silently that Rolex is moving away from "tool watches" and moving up market to precious metal and jewel encrusted watches to appeal to the Patek Philippe buyer. Will the loyal hard working fan base [not every Rolex buyer is Jeff Bezos] follow?
Hard working base fans are moving to Tudor. Rolex should move upmarket. Good move and I hope they keep it up. They own 30% of the market and that will continue whether you like it or not
Maybe this is how they kill flipping - make watches nobody wants or can afford. 🤣
@@WestCoastAce27 😍
Guys, it’s only episode one. They have to do Rolex first for the clicks. Good stuff will come
The higher the socks the closer to God (Rolex)?
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
So Rolex made a Daytona and doesn’t want to sell it to the general public?
Nice 👍🏼
The ‘general’ public is not Rolex’s market, especially for an all-gold Daytona. Fact. Albeit unfortunate.
@@KeepingWatchUKagree. If it was they’d kill the back door sales directly to greys, cut off longtime ‘loyal’ customers who flip.
Rolex Watches & Wonder 2024. If only we could discuss additional watches consumers can purchase.
naa it's Watches & Wonders Episode 1. I'm sure there are more episodes to come
Any suggestions on how to purchase a Black Bay Chrono Pink?
Great to see socks back.
Hot take: I think Rolex is going to slowly lose market share as they get further away from reality, normal real people as their clientele instead of the ultra wealthy. That’s why they have to increase production (new factory being built) and use Tudor to fill the gap they are leaving behind.
With the inline perpetual calendar the salmon dial appears too flat. I prefer the blue gradient dial and how the outside minute track ring is a different shade of blue.
BEN, DO THOSE SOCKS GO ALL THE WAY UP?
They mentioned a 58 without rivets and it's a sign of things to come. Which 58 are they referring to? They all seem to have rivets
Hold up… didn’t JLC Reverso come out with these style straps years ago?
Another year of boring Rolex releases that you can’t get even if you wanted.
Precious metal pieces are typically available
Yep Breitling is so much more exciting than boring and super ubiquitous rolex. They were saying everyone was wearing rolex.
Rolex wearers = sheep
Tudor is the King of the Show!
got 3 new ones from ADs in the last 2 years.. what are you talking about?
How about focus on the far more interesting brands than Rolex?
RGM in Lancaster, PA does hand-rose engine guilloche dials. They are gorgeous! Shows real handcrafted care to a watch. Rolex is supposedly using a rose engine for them, but it’s probably not by hand. Probably still robotic.
Tony 🫶🏻 Absolute Leyend 🙌🏻
New 1908 Platinum Stunning 😍 ✨️ 💖 💕
J.
Now that we got rid of boring Rolex 😂, on to interesting watches for the next days! 🎉
I’m waiting for the T-Fit clasp on the BB58
I love that gold tudor but it is expensive!
New Tudor Pepsi is the Diet Coke caffine free
Nice socks guys!
lol. Could do with less of that look.
Are they wearing shorts? 😉
The guilloche dial on that platinum 1908 is impeccable. Malaika is being a hater 😂
Agree. I bet out in the sun that dial is amazing to just move a bit and watch the color change. I don’t like small seconds so not something I’d buy - but incredible job by Rolex to expand that line.
It should be the Cherry Coke, since Rolex owns Tudor and Rolex owns the Coke bezel.
The sniping at the Tudor GMT is disappointing, otherwise a great discussion. The gilt give semi-vintage look. And Tudor listened - 39 and 12.8. Assume this will come to be their new standard for GMTs. And the mono BB - a Sub mortals will actually be able to purchase after a short wait, not grey market markup. And to say the brand is just the BB is silly; the Pelagos is a watch geek favorite; the 39 is just about perfect.
I've long been a product manager for a number of brands (not in watches) and it's interesting to hear the "boring" comment about products in the classic black colourway that would clearly be the highest volume sellers in the market. There is a commercial disconnect between the "excite me, dazzle me" hype of social media, and the solid selling models that in many brand are entirely missing from the range. That fact a black bezel GMT wouldn't be a permanent fixture in the Rolex catalog, or Tudor didn't have a monochrome option in BB for years, it strikes me as the luxury these swiss brand managers have to not get fired. If I left a hundred million dollars in sales off the books because i didn't give our customers what they wanted, i'd be out of a job permenently. For Swiss brands, refusing to do what the market wants is their marketing plan. It's a bizarre world.
100% Why there has never been a black and white BB58, and the Pelegos 39 wasn't just a smaller matt version of the large one is unbelievable. Same thing with BB58 GMT, at least colour match the larger one.....!
Then adding T fit to BB Pro and BB58 GMT but not the BB58 incumbants still.......insane.
Ben Clymer is such a Rolex apologist. God forbid he doesn't get allocated the next Daytona lol
So in 5 years they will have a platinum Le Mans, commemorating the 100th year of the race. The Deep Sea is like a off-road Ferrari 😅.
Hey Hodinkee, where can I subscribe for the community meeting on friday evening?:)
Best regards fron Luxembourg
The guy in blue jacket speaks my mind about the gmt Tudor . It is definitely in the right direction with the thickness but the glit makes it looks outdated from day 1
They might have to, cant step on big brother’s toes. Probably the same reason why they dont offer it on the 5 link too. Gotta nerf it somehow right?
@@GrumblingForesightnot only that, but Tudor wouldn’t want the BB58 GMT to cannibalise the 41 GMT sales.
@@omarion07 true, thats a valid point too.
Thickness? It’s 12.8mm thick!! What do people want
What’s the brand of Ben’s chukka boots?
Me wrong?!? I beg to differ!…
To answer ur question on the gold bb58, it is just a product at another price point. Would u buy 2 datejust 28 with diamond bezel or dial to get your next “dream” rolex watch like Batman or do u want this ? That’s the reality of ADs , I think u guys know but are not able to say out in a podcast 😂
The 1908 is probably the winning piece of everything seen from any brand so far. However, all these precious metal watches, including Tudor, do not appeal to the watch enthusiasts. They appeal to the money enthusiasts. You’re buying gold, not a watch that’s worth it. It’s just frustrating that there aren’t any watches anymore from Rolex that go after the watch enthusiasts. It’s all luxury and show off pieces. We used to be able to save up for a watch and commemorate a significant life event. Not anymore. Prices are astronomically above inflation equivalent, and are way above what they used to be back in the day because Rolex is selling luxury status via their brand, not an actual product that is worth what you should pay vs. what they expect you to pay.
Rolex is ubiquitous
Rolex wearers are sheep!
Too many Black bays? I would ask, does Rolex have too many oyster perpetuals? Same same
Now do Omega’s catalog.
They ignored the Pelagos line - huge fan base. I was at my boutique when the Sept updated Pelagos was announced - they sold all 12 they had in about 30 minutes.
Give me a job @Hodinkee I’ll come and talk about something other than Rolex *yawn*
Tudor won, Rolex is so underwhelming to me as per usual. They really shouldn’t get away with it so constantly.
Talking at length about watch brand that are not available (except in the grey market at triple the MSRP) is such a waste of time isn't it ?
Everybody at Hodinkee is knowledgeable and a pleasure to listen to. But I must confess that I have a soft spot for Malaika. Her sense of humor, her knowledge, her points of view who are modern yet respectful of the past, her modern elegance with a touch of vintage. I love when she’s part of the conversation.
I think her takes are poor. Bens point about AP and Tudor is valid. Both brands are essentially one model brands. As was her point about the guillochage dial on the 1908.
c'mon!!! The most interesting watches you all saw were the Tudor and Rolex?!?!?!? There were so many more interesting pieces released and these are the ones that caught your attention?!?!
it's Episode 1, and for that it makes sense to start with Rolex & Tudor tbh
I'm more and more tired of that sort of "salon" discussions among priviledged people who live in another world
Pretty obvious what Rolex are doing. One stainless steel model and umpteen precious metals. They are trying to split their clientele. Those begging ADs for stainless steel Subs, GMTs and Daytonas will be pushed towards Tudor. I think Rolex are sick of getting slammed by people who cant buy their watches from ADs. They would much rather service the $20k+ buyers than those fighting for the $10k sports watches. Tudor are releasing the classics, like their GMT Coke which will get a lot of buzz and the Gold BB is there to elevate the brand towards luxury status - no one will buy it, it is a loss leader to raise the profile.
The slamming is not working!!! They made 17 billion US dollars last year and captured 30% of the luxury watch market. So who cares about the complaining
@@samuelburton5576no they made $10mil revenue. Profits, who knows. Massive non the less. But you really think they need to deal with people coming in every week asking for watches they can’t have? They want to send those plebs to Tudor
@@gaffs82 please do your research. They generated 15 billion swiss francs which translates to 17 billion US
Bunch rollie fan boys/gals... meh
im a disabled veteran navy diver and I want the new yellow gold deepsea seadweller to wear for 50 years. how do I afford one when my pension is only $36,000 a year
it's not a sea dweller this time anymore
💯💯💯💯💯
You are not the intended market
cactus jack wtf?
Rolex is trying to go upmarket into the 40k+ range with precious metal only pieces and leave Tudor as their accessible brand.
If true that will be a blunder that will be studied in business schools for decades. Treating HNWI customers like 2nd class citizens is a good way to fail.
So many boring watches no one will be able buy at retail! How exciting!
do I need a mortgage for a watch nowadays ?
Mortgages are for the purchase of real estate. You may consider a personal loan or even a credit card for a watch purchase. I get your point, it’s getting a bit crazy out there.
quite artificial atmosphere
Socks for days
I’ve always made the point that Rolex is selling luxury, not watches, and that Tudor today is what Rolex used to be. The OP, Explorer I & II are indeed the only remaining actual tool watches from Rolex. I’d much rather get a vintage or neo-vintage Rolex than today’s models. Regarding the releases this week, no one asked for a Tudor Cherry Coke GMT, they wanted a Rolex GMT MII Coke. Now there are 4 Tudor GMTs, in 3 different cases. No one is going to pay $30K for a solid gold Tudor. The Tudor Monochrome looks like a Submariner, further cementing that Tudor is a poor man’s Rolex. Lastly, the Clair de Rose is the only normal release but it’s a ladies watch so I’m not buying it. Tudor and Rolex releases this year are worthless, for me.
U all channel are paid marketers….
Rolex saying we cant meet demand ..heres our 2024 boring af releases go buy our brokey tudor
I am a Tudor and Rolex fanboy… but I don’t like any of their releases this year, except for the platinum 1908 which of course I could never afford. No one asked for a Tudor Cherry Coke, they wanted a GMT MII Coke. And now they have 4 GMTs, why? And it looks like a Monta Skyquest with that guilt. No one is going to buy a $30K Tudor, you’re paying for the gold, not the watch. The Monochrome looks just like a Submariner, no longer being different than Rolex. It further solidifies Tudor as the poor man’s Rolex, which I never previous subscribed to. And Tudor discontinued the Glamour Double-Date which was stunning! They never even distributed that in the US! So frustrating! I guess only my wallet thanks them for all these lame releases.
I can't stand how today's generation speak. Everything is a vibe or they're leaning into it.
The images of watches and the time spent on the specs takes a stretch limo backseat to the talking heads. And, in this day and age, why the hell are you holding mikes? There's this dutch(?) guy that has a you tube channel.....does an intro then people exit screen. One hears them describing everything, but it's all watch. That guy figured it out! There's a tremendous amount of knowledge and experience in all of Hodinkee, but it just seems to be a too much talking and inside jokes. Since you are incredibly successful maybe I'm all wrong......
Yes you are, but I hear you.
Very disappointing year
A bunch of fools
The lady on this panel doesn't have a clue what she's talking about. She's just a token participant making things up.
Another commerceial fron ben!! Please dont bring him on this podcast. All watches are great and he does not want to make any watch companies angry at him. Soo booring
The girl commentator was annoying
Role reversal this year, Tudor was boring and Rolex was Daring. This to me just makes it look like Rolex is trying to compete with the holy trinity brands and they are positioning Tudor to be what Rolex used to be.