So great to have the master-builder take us through this! I am not a novice at ST kits, but I usually work in smaller scale stuff. I have had a couple of goes at this kit and the part that always goes wrong is the secondary hull, especially around the strong-back area - the gaps and seams I have left are a nightmare and I have had to resort to filler-ca glue to close it together. If you could take extra time to show how best to do that bit when you come to it that would be very helpful.
Thank you for positing this video. I have 2 Enterprise kits upstairs that have been waiting for a couple of years for me to build. There is something different for me in following along these videos live rather than searching for the older ones, that makes it much more engaging. I think finally I will get going. Your work is inspiring, I know I will not be able to build to your fantastic standards but hope I can get it to look really good. Then need to work out whats the case to put it in :) Lets get it built first though :)
Good to see you doing another SciFi build video Boyd! This is what started it all, so many years ago. Very curious to see what after market parts you'll be using this time around.
Was so excited to see this again. One thing I have noticed is that the edges have a number on them that corresponds with a number on the saucer for placement
Great stuff, Boyd, and hi from the UK! Thanks very much for doing an update of this build - it might finally give me the courage to start mine. The kits are very expensive over here so I've always been a bit apprehensive about making a mistake. I have dragged up a chair, grabbed my coffee and will be watching along with great interest!
Hopefully when you get to joining the saucer sections you’ll explain how/why the parts are painted up fully before gluing. Can’t figure out how not to ruin all the work done such as the Aztecing when you do your putty/light blocking work.
Thanks for the tip on the putty. I have been using the testers putty, letting it set for about 5 min then wiping with isopropyl alcohol. It has saved a lot of details too. Interesting scribing tool also.
you are really working hard, Boyd, to make me want to come to San Antonio (which I have always loved since my first visit when I was 17 years old. for me, during the Christmas time, it is the most beautiful city in the world!) for that upcoming show next year!
I finished mine about a year ago from the last video series of this. It turned out awesome. I’m really thinking about doing it again. Can’t wait to see this progress.
It will be nice to see the series for this build. It would also be nice to see how you select, calculate (watts & resisters etc) and wire up all the LEDs as well (if in fact you don't use a "plug and play" kit). One thing for sure, this series will be a good one to keep an eye on!
I am currently building this model and have been , until now, following your old videos. I have the maskdesign masks too and the same photo etch and resin parts- can’t wait for more. Thank you 😊
Love Faller glue. This isn't what I normally build. I have this kit and am really looking forward to watching this build. Maybe I'll even start mine??? Thanks for doing this Boyd. I'll be watching!!!!
Wow I got the 1701 refit coming next week, Im not good with lights and sound system so I bought the trekmodeler so I will be watching your vids with great detail for tips and how to so thanks bud and I appreciate it.
Don't work on the nacelle grills until I get you the "shadow masks." For the solid black areas surrounded by inner lighting. I enjoy watching you work. Would a "show & tell" of all the aftermarket kits work for you? For the next vid of course.
Hi Boyd, is Pt 2 available? So happy that you decided to create a current build series (step by step) on the Refit. Have been building my kit since 2020 - taking my time as this is a learning curve... Appreciate your teachings......
I came back to re watch this build to help on my USS Franklin, The windows setup looks exactly the same as the Moebius model and if that inner ring does not allow you to put in the windows afterwards. So this will help in putting in the kit glass after everything is primed and paint THANK YOU For this tip. I would like to know what that model glue bottle is with the really long Neddie that was cool
I have been building this kit for the last few months. Using the Trekmodeler, Warp 8 kit with add on, shuttle bay landing lights, paint guide, Maskdesign masks and PE. Ordered Daler Rowney, 'Shimmering' acrylic ink for the aztecs. Doing mods, scratch building and adding UV light effects. Designed/fabricated a stand that allows the model to be pitched any direction, at a maximum of 25 degrees from level. I have posted images of some of my model builds on the bottom of the, 'DESIGN' page on my w/site. 'chopperworks' in Burlington, Ontario (I build custom motorcycles) if interested. There is a video of a Moebius, Jupiter II I did with unique features that is posed in fight on a custom stand. Thank you, Boyd for sharing and guiding modelers with your entertaining, instructive video series. They are what motivated me to build the PL Enterprise Refit.
Always love seeing the refit. Interesting "how hard-core are you" question that just occurred to me. Has anyone ever done a version where the aztec are actual scribed panel lines?
Hey Boyd I look forward to watching these videos. I bought one of these kits a few years back from Hastings just before they closed. I haven't put a model together in decades, except for Enterprise-C model where all the decals are no good. So I want to build it with all the lights and goodies, but I am really hesitant and rather strapped for cash so I'm not sure I can do it. I watched your previous series on this and it intimidated me. I am going to try though. Hope I don't screw it up. Any tips you can add to future videos to help novices or maybe less expensive alternatives would be greatly appreciated. When is that show where that model will be given away there in SATX. I live about 300 miles west and would like to try to make it. Thx.
If I may make a suggestion for a second 1/350 Refit kit, If you recall you made Single Engine Destroyer variant of the TOS Enterprise model of the same scale, I think it'd be interesting to see you do something similar with a Refit kit, it would especially be interesting to see how you would tackle modifying the nacelle to mount it directly to the neck under the torpedo launcher.
Great to see another new build. Have you got any lost in space builds in the near future? I wish someone would put out a bigger scale black beauty from the green hornet! 👍🙏
I’ll be interested to see this progress. Do you ever wash your kit in dish soap first before assembly? Also the thing I’m most curious about is the lighting of the dish from the bridge and the lower sensor array. I’ve been thinking about the Raytheon trick to do on mine. I was thinking if you fog the edges of the black light block it’d work really well since there’d be no harsh light edge. 😎
Aww yeah. Waiting a long time for a updated series. Here is another question about this build. The Officers lounge. I’ve noticed on your previous build series and other peoples builds that they like to do a view screen on the back wall and either the UFP or Starfleet logo on the closest wall. But there is a really good screenshot in TMP where you see inside the studio models officer lounge. The back wall only has 4 dark rectangles and the near wall has abstract art. Are you going to continue doing your own interpretation of the lounge or going for accuracy? For me on my future build it’s accuracy.
Just curious because I still have one of these in a box.. couldn't that inner ring be used as a light defuser? I was considering putting color pictures of rooms back there for detail and I've had really good luck just gluing a picture printed on regular paper backlit through white plastic as a defuser. I did the Jupiter 2 console like that from an actual photograph and it was amazingly realistic with a single GOW bulb behind it.
Quite excited since i have it in my stash for almost 10 years now. Thanks for showing the tricks you worked out after building a couple of them, Boyd. Btw is the modelshop board still up, i dont find it anymore.
That’s some shiny virgin plastic. Did you wash all of the parts first? You usually scuff them all down with steel wool first to remove the plastic sheen.
Hey Guys. From a different country here, might be that there are some product names used here we don't have. What are CA Glue and Kicker? Assuming 'regular model glue is Polystyrene Cement?
"CA" is short for cyanoacrylate glue or super glue. The kicker is an accelerator for rapid drying of this type of glue. Both are available in the UK as I have modeling friends there that use it.
No, I don't use them on this kit as they don't fit very well. I'll be using either clear UV curing resin or canopy glue to fill in the windows from the outside after all the assembly and painting is done. I'm using clear, thin sheet plastic for the windows you can see the interiors in. The kit parts are simply too thick and blurry.
What's the spray you used on the CA glue, please? You called it Kicker? I've never heard of that. What does it do and what is its brand and name please so I could get some in the UK where I live? I've had one of these kits new and sealed for maybe 15 years. I'll love to build it with your series as a guide.
Boyd, when you applied the putty between the seams for the sensor bands, did you apply it from the inside or outside of the plastic strips? I wonder if it would be worth trying to mask the outside and somehow squirt or press the putty in from the inside.
The glue is made by FALLER their expert brand. It's made in Germany and is excellent for plastic models. The glue and the putty are available on Amazon & Ebay.
Hi Boyd! Question - are you aware of any differences between this kit and the Enterprise Refit? This kit you're doing says "1701-A" which is technically not the refit enterprise but a new one
@@dustinparker9456 well in the video he said he's using a lot of aftermarket parts , so my guess is that after those are accounted for there's probably no difference between the kits.
@@shawncarter7188 I know there is a 3D print rec deck which in my opinion is better then the photoetch part. I think he may be included that on the list. I know in my build that’s the way I’m going. Have to wait and see. He also does client builds of the thing. He may bought some of those kits in bulk to save a buck or two.
The kit can be built as either the Refit or the A. The only difference in the ships is the markings/decals and some detail around the deflector dish. It includes the parts for both.
I thought you did use CA Glue to put a Model like that together !!! I did on one of my 1/537th Scale Refit 5 years ago and 2 years later that thing started falling apart .
You shouldn't use CA glue only on a plastic model. I just used a few drops on the saucer parts to temporarily tack them in place. I showed how I came back after that and used regular model glue to permanently set them in place.
If you look at the label of your super glue container you'll see the contents listing and that will list Cyanoacrylates, that is the long chemical name for super glue, hence the acronym CA. Depending on brand and where you get your glue from the kicker should be right near the glue in a hobby shop, otherwise a Google for super glue kicker will bring back a selection for you. Cheers.
Honestly Boyd, I could not see at all, what you were doing. All that white plastic and white putty. Everything was just washed out. Perhaps it would have been better if you would have primed the parts gray, and then done the putty work?
It never gets old seeing this ship built up!
The refit constitution class will always have a place in my heart and my favorite class of starship
So great to have the master-builder take us through this! I am not a novice at ST kits, but I usually work in smaller scale stuff. I have had a couple of goes at this kit and the part that always goes wrong is the secondary hull, especially around the strong-back area - the gaps and seams I have left are a nightmare and I have had to resort to filler-ca glue to close it together. If you could take extra time to show how best to do that bit when you come to it that would be very helpful.
Thank you for positing this video. I have 2 Enterprise kits upstairs that have been waiting for a couple of years for me to build. There is something different for me in following along these videos live rather than searching for the older ones, that makes it much more engaging. I think finally I will get going. Your work is inspiring, I know I will not be able to build to your fantastic standards but hope I can get it to look really good. Then need to work out whats the case to put it in :) Lets get it built first though :)
Looking forward to seeing the progress on this, as many as I’ve built, there’s always more to learn! You learn something new every time!
Very true :)
Going to have SO many questions during this build as looking to start my own. Hopefully I won’t be banned for asking too many things.😂
Im the same way Ian!
Going to be glued to this series all the way.
A NEW TrekWorks Refit!! Whoever the lucky commission owner is, I am very jealous!
Good to see you doing another SciFi build video Boyd! This is what started it all, so many years ago. Very curious to see what after market parts you'll be using this time around.
I can only dream about having a tenth of your patience and skill sir
Great to see you finally tackling a new Refit project Boyd.
Aye, shes a beauty ladd....👍
Was so excited to see this again. One thing I have noticed is that the edges have a number on them that corresponds with a number on the saucer for placement
Thanks for revisiting this build series! I bought this mode over 10 years ago. Time to get it done!
Can ‘t wait to see the complete build and follow along with each steps of the build. Thank u for sharing. Have a great day
Thank you Boyd for the water based putty tip, so much easier than sanding!
Nice starship Enterprise model project.
I'm so excited to watch the 5 color Aztecs. I have been holding off on mine so I can learn how to do it right!
Great stuff, Boyd, and hi from the UK!
Thanks very much for doing an update of this build - it might finally give me the courage to start mine. The kits are very expensive over here so I've always been a bit apprehensive about making a mistake. I have dragged up a chair, grabbed my coffee and will be watching along with great interest!
It’s been awhile. But your videos are always informative.
I have been waiting a long time for you too do one of these kits again! One day you should do one as a destroyer/Scout ship👍😁
Always learn something new watching you build these models!
Hopefully when you get to joining the saucer sections you’ll explain how/why the parts are painted up fully before gluing. Can’t figure out how not to ruin all the work done such as the Aztecing when you do your putty/light blocking work.
Thanks for the tip on the putty. I have been using the testers putty, letting it set for about 5 min then wiping with isopropyl alcohol. It has saved a lot of details too. Interesting scribing tool also.
you are really working hard, Boyd, to make me want to come to San Antonio (which I have always loved since my first visit when I was 17 years old. for me, during the Christmas time, it is the most beautiful city in the world!) for that upcoming show next year!
Nice work on the saucer Boyd. 👍
Thanks Boyd. Following this for sure. I have all the goodies needed for my build.
I'm excited to see this build series.
Yessssss! Stoked to see you do this updated build of this model Boyd!
Looking forward to seeing this in-depth build series.
Great work so far! Looking forward to the next step. I didn't have much luck with this kit but that was when the kit first came out.
I finished mine about a year ago from the last video series of this. It turned out awesome. I’m really thinking about doing it again. Can’t wait to see this progress.
Awesome, Boyd! I've been looking forward to this one! I'll be watching for sure.
Curious as to what glue you are using here. Really like the fine application tip.
As always, thanks for the tips and tricks.
It will be nice to see the series for this build.
It would also be nice to see how you select, calculate (watts & resisters etc) and wire up all the LEDs as well (if in fact you don't use a "plug and play" kit).
One thing for sure, this series will be a good one to keep an eye on!
I am currently building this model and have been , until now, following your old videos. I have the maskdesign masks too and the same photo etch and resin parts- can’t wait for more. Thank you 😊
Love Faller glue. This isn't what I normally build. I have this kit and am really looking forward to watching this build. Maybe I'll even start mine??? Thanks for doing this Boyd. I'll be watching!!!!
Wow I got the 1701 refit coming next week, Im not good with lights and sound system so I bought the trekmodeler so I will be watching your vids with great detail for tips and how to so thanks bud and I appreciate it.
Don't work on the nacelle grills until I get you the "shadow masks." For the solid black areas surrounded by inner lighting.
I enjoy watching you work. Would a "show & tell" of all the aftermarket kits work for you? For the next vid of course.
Hi Boyd, is Pt 2 available? So happy that you decided to create a current build series (step by step) on the Refit. Have been building my kit since 2020 - taking my time as this is a learning curve... Appreciate your teachings......
I came back to re watch this build to help on my USS Franklin, The windows setup looks exactly the same as the Moebius model and if that inner ring does not allow you to put in the windows afterwards. So this will help in putting in the kit glass after everything is primed and paint THANK YOU For this tip. I would like to know what that model glue bottle is with the really long Neddie that was cool
This is a great idea for a series! I have one of these kits, your advice will be invaluable!
It's here!
Love it. Can't wait until next week.
I have been building this kit for the last few months. Using the Trekmodeler, Warp 8 kit with add on, shuttle bay landing lights, paint guide, Maskdesign masks and PE. Ordered Daler Rowney, 'Shimmering' acrylic ink for the aztecs. Doing mods, scratch building and adding UV light effects.
Designed/fabricated a stand that allows the model to be pitched any direction, at a maximum of 25 degrees from level.
I have posted images of some of my model builds on the bottom of the, 'DESIGN' page on my w/site. 'chopperworks' in Burlington, Ontario (I build custom motorcycles) if interested. There is a video of a Moebius, Jupiter II I did with unique features that is posed in fight on a custom stand.
Thank you, Boyd for sharing and guiding modelers with your entertaining, instructive video series. They are what motivated me to build the PL Enterprise Refit.
Beautiful I need this in my life! Just have No skills! Mine would look shit! 👍🏻🖖🏻
Good Job! WOW! You actually got a new towel for the bench...heheh.
That's a cool project. 😎
Nice, will enjoy this I think I have one in the cave somewhere!
Always love seeing the refit.
Interesting "how hard-core are you" question that just occurred to me.
Has anyone ever done a version where the aztec are actual scribed panel lines?
The 537 Refit is like that, even if the panels aren't accurate. I used Martha Stewart Pearlescent Paints on mine.
Hey Boyd I look forward to watching these videos. I bought one of these kits a few years back from Hastings just before they closed. I haven't put a model together in decades, except for Enterprise-C model where all the decals are no good. So I want to build it with all the lights and goodies, but I am really hesitant and rather strapped for cash so I'm not sure I can do it. I watched your previous series on this and it intimidated me. I am going to try though. Hope I don't screw it up. Any tips you can add to future videos to help novices or maybe less expensive alternatives would be greatly appreciated. When is that show where that model will be given away there in SATX. I live about 300 miles west and would like to try to make it. Thx.
If I may make a suggestion for a second 1/350 Refit kit, If you recall you made Single Engine Destroyer variant of the TOS Enterprise model of the same scale, I think it'd be interesting to see you do something similar with a Refit kit, it would especially be interesting to see how you would tackle modifying the nacelle to mount it directly to the neck under the torpedo launcher.
@Boyd- have you figured out where the mega control board is going to go yet?
Great to see another new build. Have you got any lost in space builds in the near future? I wish someone would put out a bigger scale black beauty from the green hornet! 👍🙏
Thanks, Boyd, for this. Especially for walking slowly for noobs like me! I’m having trouble sourcing the kit itself. Where did you get yours?
Cool man work your magic boyd 🖖😉
I’ll be interested to see this progress. Do you ever wash your kit in dish soap first before assembly? Also the thing I’m most curious about is the lighting of the dish from the bridge and the lower sensor array. I’ve been thinking about the Raytheon trick to do on mine. I was thinking if you fog the edges of the black light block it’d work really well since there’d be no harsh light edge. 😎
Aww yeah. Waiting a long time for a updated series.
Here is another question about this build. The Officers lounge. I’ve noticed on your previous build series and other peoples builds that they like to do a view screen on the back wall and either the UFP or Starfleet logo on the closest wall. But there is a really good screenshot in TMP where you see inside the studio models officer lounge. The back wall only has 4 dark rectangles and the near wall has abstract art. Are you going to continue doing your own interpretation of the lounge or going for accuracy? For me on my future build it’s accuracy.
There is an updated 3D printed lounge with a decal of the art work on the wall I'll be using.
Just curious because I still have one of these in a box.. couldn't that inner ring be used as a light defuser? I was considering putting color pictures of rooms back there for detail and I've had really good luck just gluing a picture printed on regular paper backlit through white plastic as a defuser. I did the Jupiter 2 console like that from an actual photograph and it was amazingly realistic with a single GOW bulb behind it.
Quite excited since i have it in my stash for almost 10 years now. Thanks for showing the tricks you worked out after building a couple of them, Boyd.
Btw is the modelshop board still up, i dont find it anymore.
The model shop board is no more.
@@TrekWorks oh noooo!! It was one of the best boards on the net. Sad to hear.
That’s some shiny virgin plastic. Did you wash all of the parts first? You usually scuff them all down with steel wool first to remove the plastic sheen.
I always wash the parts first, just forgot to mention it. The outside of the saucer will get scuffed before I apply the primer.
Hey Guys. From a different country here, might be that there are some product names used here we don't have. What are CA Glue and Kicker? Assuming 'regular model glue is Polystyrene Cement?
"CA" is short for cyanoacrylate glue or super glue. The kicker is an accelerator for rapid drying of this type of glue. Both are available in the UK as I have modeling friends there that use it.
Very excited about this build Boyd. Thank you for sharing. Just curious, do you soap wash all the kit parts prior to working on it?
Hi Boyd! Did you install the clear window parts on the outer wall before cementing to the saucer? (It's hard to tell on the video)
No, I don't use them on this kit as they don't fit very well. I'll be using either clear UV curing resin or canopy glue to fill in the windows from the outside after all the assembly and painting is done. I'm using clear, thin sheet plastic for the windows you can see the interiors in. The kit parts are simply too thick and blurry.
What's the spray you used on the CA glue, please? You called it Kicker? I've never heard of that. What does it do and what is its brand and name please so I could get some in the UK where I live?
I've had one of these kits new and sealed for maybe 15 years. I'll love to build it with your series as a guide.
It's an accelerator for CA glue. Makes it dry rapidly. Any hobby shop selling supplies will have it.
@@TrekWorks thanks!
👍
Boyd, when you applied the putty between the seams for the sensor bands, did you apply it from the inside or outside of the plastic strips?
I wonder if it would be worth trying to mask the outside and somehow squirt or press the putty in from the inside.
You should bill the enterprise c I have not Seen no one build it yet
Really cool! Where would I get the model glue you use and the needle applicator? Where does one get the perfect putty?
The glue is made by FALLER their expert brand. It's made in Germany and is excellent for plastic models. The glue and the putty are available on Amazon & Ebay.
@@TrekWorks thanks!! Looking forward to the next installment
Hi Boyd,
Could you provide details about the model show?
You don't happen to offer/sell completed builds do you?
Where did you get the scribe tool from?
What kind of glue are you using after the CA?
Unless mistaken, Faller 170490 Expert Super Fast Setting Plastic Cement
@@theeggman9800 Great eye, you are correct and I love the stuff for plastic models. I switched to using it after Model Master went under.
@@theeggman9800 thank you! I was wondering the same.
I want to build this from scratch using high density styrofoam and instead of lighting it from within will use high intensity glow powder.
Have you used Vallejo’s Plastic Putty? Any difference to PPP?
I haven't used the Vallejo brand so I'm not sure. But if it's water based it should be the same.
Hi Boyd! Question - are you aware of any differences between this kit and the Enterprise Refit? This kit you're doing says "1701-A" which is technically not the refit enterprise but a new one
I was wondering the same thing. Why not the Polar lights round 2 version?
@@dustinparker9456 well in the video he said he's using a lot of aftermarket parts , so my guess is that after those are accounted for there's probably no difference between the kits.
@@shawncarter7188 I know there is a 3D print rec deck which in my opinion is better then the photoetch part. I think he may be included that on the list. I know in my build that’s the way I’m going. Have to wait and see. He also does client builds of the thing. He may bought some of those kits in bulk to save a buck or two.
The kit can be built as either the Refit or the A. The only difference in the ships is the markings/decals and some detail around the deflector dish. It includes the parts for both.
@@TrekWorks thank you !
What is the name of the putty you are using?
How made the 72-inch USS Enterprize 1701?
I have a model like that
I thought you did use CA Glue to put a Model like that together !!!
I did on one of my 1/537th Scale Refit 5 years ago and 2 years later that thing started falling apart .
You shouldn't use CA glue only on a plastic model. I just used a few drops on the saucer parts to temporarily tack them in place. I showed how I came back after that and used regular model glue to permanently set them in place.
I’ve seen everyone use CA glue is that a phrase for super glue and what was the kicker that you used (sprayed) over the CA glue?
If you look at the label of your super glue container you'll see the contents listing and that will list Cyanoacrylates, that is the long chemical name for super glue, hence the acronym CA. Depending on brand and where you get your glue from the kicker should be right near the glue in a hobby shop, otherwise a Google for super glue kicker will bring back a selection for you. Cheers.
Did I miss something..I thought part 2 was next...
I will pay you to build my Polar Lights Enterprise with the retrofit. First initial+last name Google mail if that's something you would consider.
Just a comment
for the algorithm
Honestly Boyd, I could not see at all, what you were doing. All that white plastic and white putty. Everything was just washed out. Perhaps it would have been better if you would have primed the parts gray, and then done the putty work?
I noticed that on the video too. I should have turned off the overhead light. I'll show it again in the next update.
I have been waiting a long time for you too do one of these kits again! One day you should do one as a destroyer/Scout ship👍😁