Sorry to see you having problems with this. Just a little something to think about. You installed the plumbing with the tanks empty. A gallon of water weighs 8.34 pounds at 62F. As you add water to those tanks they are going to get really heavy and settle and settle a lot. They will not settle exactly the same or even straight. One or both may tilt some from one end to the other. You could have several inches difference and even more. You have a rigid line between them so the tanks will most likely always leak or start to leak at some point if you do not change that setup. My suggestion is to cut the rigid line between the tanks and take out a section, perhaps a foot if possible or more, and re-connect them with some kind of flexible hose clamped with heavy duty hose camps. Slide the hose over the pipes at least two or three inches and clamp each end. Also allow some slack in the hose if possible for tank settling so it does not bind the connections and cause another leak. As for down below I think you will work that out, but remember that ground is going to move over time so things cannot be where they will bind or leaks will happen. Wishing you the best, God bless.
I feel your pain, I've run miles and miles of pipe for snowmaking at various ski resorts in Canada. The largest cause of leaks for me was misalignments, if there's any lateral stress on a threaded joint it's almost certain to leak, especially on the air lines (snow making systems usually have a pair of pipes, one water one air). Nice to see you guys going the extra mile on your system, don't give up yet!
Whenever you install a plumbing system you should either hydrostatic or pneumatic test the system @ 1 1/2 times the design pressure leave the system for 24 hours and if you have not lost any pressure then the installation is good. If the needle on the pressure gauge has moved any at all there is a leak that should be fixed. What I am telling you is generally accepted construction practice. I am trying to save you time, money and a headache down the road. Read my previous post for plumbing your water tanks.
Ok guys, love your passion but the water system should not leak lol; sorry Jessie! I'm actually a master plumber, so I'm not just going to give suggestions but explain what's happening. On ANY compression syle fitting, you DO NOT use Teflon on the threads, as that ISNT the sealing point of that syle connection. The act of the compression is the ONLY sealing point and if water is getting past that then it'll always leak until enough setimeit fills the void, and that's not good for anything. On plastic fittings and poly style pipe, it's all about the chamfers and the cut being as square as possible (actual pipe cutter). They make a chamfer tool that creates a exact same size chamfer the entire diameter of the pipe, so the back pressure from the pressure locking nut is evenly distributed inside the inner pipe stop of the fitting. The plastic doesn't have the rigidity that the older metal style fittings had and you can never get enough force from them to pressure seal a non perfect fitting connection. So on the leak areas in the poly, I'd redo the chamfer with the tool, or try to fix it by hand (as you'll see where the majority of the pressure is being applied and trim the opposite side to compensate). Next you're fighting water pressure and a leak point, on poly to make a seal it only works when DRY! you need to shut down the system before the leak point, disassemble the connection, clean and dry, then thighten. You can prob stop most of your minor leaks thus far by just doing this step (as in the t-fitting you originally pulled on thinking the tension was to much). On any NTP thread connections like the galvanized connections, use Teflon tape and finish off with a coating of pipe dope (liquid Teflon) on top always applied the way of the threads. Exspeically if they will be in accessable later on. Last but not least, the connections or fittings that seal to the sisturns (the main lower pvc connection), only seal on the inner rubber seal. You were kind of on the right track with a grain of sand allowing the leak path, it was most likely the fact that you didn't have it tight enough dry and the bit of bind on the difference in height is causing the leak trail. Unfortunately you'll need to drain the system, then just clean up and dry both sides in both tanks and use the new tool to snug them up a bit better to begin with. Another trick is to coat the side of the rubber washer with pipe dope that is in contact with the tank, it'll make a better seal and allow the ring to retain it's shape while being thightened. Sometimes you can pipe dope o-ring style connections, but the Teflon and the rubber of the rings sometimes react overtime if the rings are made with certain rubbers. So it's better to just snug those when dry to and try them with just a bit of water, if leaks, let dry for a bit and give it another quarter turn, then test again. It's time consuming but it's the quickest way with any large poly pipe compression/rubber seal connections. Great job and I love your guys passion and stride to figure it out, keep it up! I wouldn't normally write a how-to because I know you both hear it enough, I just want to help and figured this advice would help in the future too. I'd be happy to answer questions in private email or by phone too, just let me know. I'm an HVAC pro too, as I guess almost all of us plumbers are lol. Good job on the new AC, but it needs to draw in fresh ambiant air, that enclosere over the trailer is going to impead that and drastically reduce it's effecieny and it's life span on the compressor. She needs fresh air moving through her at all times, so maybe roll up a tarp on the roof near it? Just another thought, I'll stop lol. Good luck guys, love the channel and the effort!!!!
Finally....somebody that knows what they are talking about. These poor kids don't stand a chance of making this lifestyle work....and the advise from the raving lunatics in the comment section will only expedite their eventual demise. It's like a train wreck.....ya can't look away.
It's difficult to give proper advice because I can't see all the bits and pieces of the compression fittings. Compression fittings made of plastic always relies on everything being dead nuts straight with ZERO outside pressure on them. Plastic flexes so ya..... For runs of plastic black pipe I always use metal barb fittings straight into metal piping/fittings of some sort. 1. Metal threaded fittings force you to use proper angles (no problems with plastic getting torqued 2. The barb fittings are bullet proof. Press em onto the black plastic, hit it with a heat gun and clamp em down (be careful with overheat, don't melt the pipe). Never a leak in hundreds of installs is all I have to claim. 3. Pipe dope on the metal threads. Nothing much to say here, again it's bullet proof. Also very easy to go to copper or standard PVC pipe since there are a myriad of threaded adapters. I can sort of understand where frustration can come into play. So many "experts" out there that say "this is the easiest to install" or it just requires the least skill.. "It's like legos, just pop em together" And the ever popular "If you ever have a problem, this is very easy to disassemble and fix" Properly installed lines don't have problems....
To ease some of the stress on that white PVC pipe, take a small soldering torch and gently heat that baby up. It will lightly and temporarily soften the pipe. That will allow each end "settle" to match each tank. You wont need to apply a lot of heat to relieve the stress and get those fittings in each tank to cinch up. Take your time with it since you have water in the pipe already. I've run into this sooo many times setting septic tanks, cisterns, etc... - when the plumber/crew didn't get the pipes or tanks laid out -or when the tank shifts in position for one reason or another.
I wouldn't backfill around any connection for a long while. There is a solution for all your leaks. Call the manufacturer. I'm so impressed with your attitudes towards each other. Very caring. A huge contribution.
Why didn't you use a really heavy duty flexible hose between the cisterns? Wouldn't that solve the issue of the tanks not needing to be perfectly aligned? I would also think that allows for some play in the distance between the cisterns.
Yeah, they will find that out once they start backfilling and low and behold that causes force on the cisterns and they might move and shift about (esp. if you don't fill them first, so hopefully they do that, but low and behold that might cause them to set too) ... and obviously if you don't have some play in the connection it will either start to leak or it will downright break.
Something to remember too, working in high heat effects your ability to make good decisions. So when you were doing the install and it was hot and you were working long and hard you likely made a few poor decisions (like not adding the Teflon tape, to connections, or not moving the pipe down far enough) which then resulted in these leaks. Sometimes it is a wiser move to stop and take a break or finish the next day than to push through and keep working in the heat. I learned that well when living in AZ, and it has helped prepare me for living in Eastern WA. But you are chipping away and getting so close to finished. It sucks running into these last minute problems, but this stuff happens when your doing this sort of work.
Even though you are trying to keep your expenses down, sometimes for numerous reasons it is better to call in the professionals. You've spent several month working on this and have a ways to go. If you want to have your timbers ready for when construction begins you should be cutting them now and not be spending more time on your water service. I hope that when construction begins that you at least have professionals do the foundation. If the foundation is done right and is bang on things will be easier for you down the road. I'm not trying to be critical. I just want you to be successful. Be safe.
I've become addicted to your videos. The two of you are doing a great job and I thank you for taking the time to share your adventure even when things are not going as planned. Stay the course and try not to get overwhelmed with the size of this adventure. It took me 15 years to build my street rod and that pales in comparison to what you are doing. Great job Alyssa editing these videos!!!!!!!!! Peter
hi guys I wanted to give you a heads up. We are full time in our motorhome and we were in FL. for the molest 4 years so our AC was used a lot. The plug (30 amp) finally burnt up. rather than go buy a new one, I decided I'll just splice one in from an existing cord (That the other end was gone) I did the same thing as you did used 2 butt ends, I wasn't worried about fire or any thing because it was outside. Time forward about 14 months and we are now in Illinois at my daughter's, we were here about 3 weeks and lost power......I didn't even think about the splice till it was the only thing it could have been. Sure enough the hot side (black) was melted and burnt in two. I understand that we use a lot more power than you guys, but if I were you I'd check it once a month (I know is a pain but you only have to do it when it hot and you use your A.C. a lot) It makes good sense
You guys are so awesome. You are the Joanna and Chip Gaines of RUclips! Good chemistry, good logical thought threads. Nice to see all the problems you guys worked through together. And no big million dollar production budget either.
Like your attitude , I'm a retired plumber and I know how frustrating things can get , than you add heat or cold and it's worst guys, keep up the fight your not doing bad for a couple weekend warriors.
I agree with the flexible connection between the two tanks. You have another issue that awaits you. Air pressure building in your tanks as you fill them or a vacuum as you drain them. So, you should put vents on the top of each tank this way you will not have any issues with air pressures. If you only want one vent. You will need to put a second connection at the top bung between the two tanks and the vent can be placed on the second tank. This way you don't trap air in the second tank and the water can flow between the two tanks with no issues. If you think the over fill line will act as your vent it could but if you lay it on the ground you will have bugs getting into your tank. you will still need to put an overflow connection to the second tank or the connect on the second bung.
No a properly installed system using things like pipe dope and teflon tape will not and does not - leak. Code when properly followed actually requires that a system maintains air pressure ( air molecules are smaller then water) for 24 hrs ( and I won't talk about the health reasons associated with leaks). Also never use teflon tape on compression fittings. I used to work with hydraulic and pneumatic systems, one full turn plus a side and that's it with compression fittings. If you warp the ferrule by over tightening you will never get it to seal, best bet at that point is cut it off and start again. All that said. You guys are awesome and do a great job. Keep learning, keep growing and dont compromise.
I am a licensed master plumber/contractor. Non-Metallic joints NEVER make up. Allowing a little leak will cause erosion of the soil a much worse problems. You are not using a pipe wrench on the galvanized fittings..... sorry ChannelLox just doesn't cut it. Teflon tale is NOT a sealant it just allows for easier tightening. Use liquid teflon.
IMO you will have a continual leak problem between your cistern tanks because you have a rigid connection between them. Once you fill them with the water weight and then bury them, with seasonal fluctuations they will be settling and moving for at least a year. You need a flexible connection between those tanks.
This is what I have grown to like about the channel. Jesse & Alyssa innocently marching ahead, doing stuff in the most difficult way possible, while commenters try to help them in vein. You can often tell what's going to happen months in advance just by reading the comments.
they very rarely do . their channel is huge and they are busy making tons of money ......and money is no problem for them judging by the amount of machinery they hire and buy , so im sure they dont really care if things go wrong , more views more money and can get experts in to fix if they cant lol , when channels get this big its all about the money , if they want to reply to comments they need to get hired help to answer on their behalf .....i unsubscribed after their little childish rant about youtube a month ago and also the fact that expecting a reply to a comment is like lookin for a needle in a haystack .......after all this i admit i still watch them but way too much money flying around (flying lessons etc) lol Read more
People in RUclips tend to be experts in everything.. it leaked? That’s a learning process for you guys. The great thing is that you are learning and you are leaning on the things your are doing with good will and hard work. I hope you guys are well and everything is fine! God bless.
I've come to the place where I quit using teflon tape and use TFE paste exclusively. Plenty of taped joints have small leaks but I have yet to have a joint leak when using TFE paste. However... you are correct to assume the small leaks will stop on their own over time. Potable water has sediment and silt that will collect in the threads of a weeping joint and it will seal up on it's own. Great videos.
As I have been watching these water system videos I keep hearing my Father stand over me saying one of his favorite sayings, "If a whole lot of pipe dope and teflon tape is good, too much is better". I miss him as he passed away in 1997.
Wow! It's sad how many people thumbed down on this video. I would love to see them attempt something so brave, and adventurous. Thank you for the content!
I had a reverse osmosis at home and each time I replace the active charcoal filtration and the sediment filtration, the quick connect leak at 50% of the time. So I melt the same plastic (PVC) and It's welded the plastic where the leak was. Plastic can be weld by ultrason and flame. I hope this was helpful. Hot clue stick hated up by flame can be a great choice to stop leak.
In Spain we use a lot of plastic pipes and they tend to leak first time then tighten but always always Teflon tape. The other thing to note is keep stress off the joint. Also the seals need to be greased so they don't twist when tightening up.
I was suggested your channel after watching a few videos from a guy called Urban Farmer. Since yesterday I probably watch 30 of your videos and I am hooked! I love your format and how informative some of your stuff is. Can't wait to see the end of this project and the beginning of the next!
I know it is a little late now, but I really recommend to use the brass connector fittings for the PE pipe. They can take all the stress and are way better to get tight!
Depending on how you hold the roll of teflon it will self tension on the pipe so you do not have to pull off random lengths of tefon. Makes it easier to keep to smooth and flat.
I was a water plant operator for a large city. All systems leak. If the pressure in the pipe drops below 20 PSI They order a boil water, because theoretically if the pressure drops below 20 PSI ground water can enter the system. That is the ONLY reason they order boil water JFI .Keep up the great vids :)
Your hard work, good attitudes will be rewarded keep at it. But please don't accept leaks in your water system. It should not leak and the leaks you have now will get worse over time and with more pressure. Contamination could also be an issue with leaks. You know you have to hang in there and get this thing right, even if it costs time and money.
In residential construction here in Concord California we do leak tests of all the plumbing in new, and remodeled homes. Vent tubes are filled with water and left over night to see if the drainage system leaks (also called hydro-static testing). Water inlets (copper / brass pipe) are tested once they are finished by pressurizing the system to ensure sweat joints are clean and secure. There shouldn't be a leak. PVC pipe joints should be cleaned, prime, glued, then twisted at least a quarter turn to ensure proper seal. MAKE SURE WHEN YOU CUT PLASTIC PIPE THAT YOUR CUT IS SQUARE TO GET THE MOST CONTACTING SURFACE IN A JOINT. Copper / brass should be sanded, to clean the contacting surfaces, fluxed on both mating surfaces, put together , heated till they change color, then dabbed with solder. The solder should fall into the joint like you would imagine water would. If you end up with a lumpy and ugly sweat joint chances are it will leak. WIPE DOWN THE COPPER PIPE AFTER YOU SWEAT A JOINT TO REMOVE EXCESS FLUX OR IT WILL CORRODE THE PIPE. Anything that screws together should be hit with #1 Pipe Dope as Covert Radio said, or #2 Teflon tape. PLASTIC PIPING SHOULD ONLY BE SCREWED ON HAND TIGHT. Drain pipes should have no less than 1/4 inch of fall per foot, BUT NO MORE THAN 3 INCHES PER FOOT OTHER THAN A VERTICAL FALL. A slope of less than 1/4-inch per foot will cause constant clogs and a slope of more than three inches will allow the water to drain without the solids. Secure your copper inlet pipes to studs every so often to prevent a shaking pipe. If you do not secure a pressurized inlet pipe it will shake in a wall and possible loosen a sweat joint causing a leak. Additionally, shaking is noisy and irritating when water is turned on.
Not trying to be critical. You should probably try putting flexible fittings between your cisterns. Whether you like it or not mother nature is always moving things around. Cut your pipe in between and place a neoprene tube splice to join them up. This will allow things to move around and not break.
yip rigid pipe there is a problem ,you can use 4 elbows and with short lengths of pipe to make a goose neck too add some flexibility between the cisterns , the smallest misalignment will cause a leak
You're absolutely Correct about water systems slightly leaking. Like you, I plumbed most of my 10 acres and I periodically find new little leaks here and there. And I know I have some that I'll never find. As long as they're not major, I can live with it. Also, I've had some success using a water pressure gauge on a hose bib to confirm leaks. Oh, and I also use BOTH Teflon tape and pipe dope. I've found that it works great!
when you do have to fix the join between the tanks, put a shut off valve on each side so you can isolate either tank and save the water in the one you are not going to work on. just a suggestion that may save frustration in future. if you work on the end tank you isolate the front tank from receiving water from end tank.lower level on front tank and pump the water from rear to front or vise versa. I think you get what I mean. of course that is when you have no choice but to do the repair, then do the upgrade. Be vigilant guys as you have been throughout this journey. You give everybody hope and inspiration for their journey as well. God bless.
You two are awesome!! But trust me use Teflon tape ( if you can see light through it is low quality and don't use it) and pipe dope on every connection!!
Can I make a suggestion you may or may not have already heard, that is to buy a 10x10 pop up tent for shade used for localized projects. I live in Orlando Fl. and by 9am it close to 85 to 90 degrees and heading to 95 by noon or higher with 95% humidity. It works great as long as I stay under the tent. I have the metalized coating on the underside and it blocks the UV the best. Just a suggestion and Thanks for the videos, hard work, restless nights, and bug-a-boo.
I started watching your videos a little while ago. I don't normally comment on videos but feel the need to speak up on the water system. I have spent 25 years in the civil engineering industry, engineering, designing, specifying, and inspecting thousands of water systems from individual residences to major city water infrastructure systems so I have a little experience in the area. Here some things that you should really think through before you call this system finished. These are things that you may not find in a DIY guide to water design. Water Tank bedding (the sand layer under your tanks) should - (keys to solid long life span of tank system) 1. Have a Uniform thickness - based on your native soil type or tank spec whichever is thicker (no scrimping on the edges). 2. Should be level - such that both tanks are at the same elevation (level with each other). 3. Should be compacted (before the tanks are installed). 4. If the native soil does not support the sand a geotextile liner may need to be installed before the bedding is installed. 5. If done right the tanks should settle very probably less than 1/4 in when filled. Tank Plumbing should - (for leak proof assembly and access planning) 1. Have a control valve on the line between the tanks and after exiting the last tank for maintenance set in insulated access boxes. 2. flexible or adjustable fittings between the tanks to allow for expansion or slight settling. 3. Threaded rigid pipes that are in stress at a joint will not seal no matter how much teflon, silicon, or pipe compound you use. 4. If the joints leak at the tank they could over time undermine you entire water system. Flexible Pipe Trenching / Encasement 1. While pipe encasement is used to allow for quick access without re-excavation it is usually run in short lengths for crossing roads and other obstructions. 2. Encased pipe is usually wedged with blocks or grouted to stop the pipe inside from movement during use. Thrust (pipe movement due to trapped air traveling in the pipe) will cause unsecured pipes to jump and move weakening the adjacent joints and even undermining the bedding. 3. What keeps pipes from freezing in the winter when buried below 3 ft is the compact bedding/soil around the pipe acting as a natural heat transfer. By adding an open encasement you are allowing cold air (or hot air) to get to the pipe surface and effect the temperature in the water. You may need to pack the encasement entrance and exit to stop air movement through the encasement.
Sorry but when you pump up a system for test and it has a leak you will not get passed off. Thats why we have to pump up to 1500 kpa for no less than 30 mins. Hydro static tests are designed to make sure you have no leaks in your system. Not trying to be rude its just a lot of work goes into plumbing and a lot of people think its not as hard as it looks.
What is your opposition to silicone out of curiosity? That said, big flat gaskets like that A) you're dreaming if you think that'll seal itself and B) you should just pull it apart for a visual examination. Chances are it is easily fixable. Gaskets made properly seal at remarkably low torque, very rarely does the "turn it tighter" thing actually work.
Good day, Want to give you a tip, if either a metal pipe leaks the procedure is use a bit of plumbers hemp some teflon tape and then some thread sealant,then it won't leak 100%. Now for pvc/plastic use teflon tape with thread sealant and it will seal the imperfections in the thread after the sealant had dried and won't leak 100%. I learnt these tips the hard way. Use them you won't regret it.
Super Mario Level.... That had me crying with laughter... Alyssa, Jesse is lucky to have you, you are a star. Don't worry about all the folks saying you guys don't know what you are doing, you are doing great considering virtually everything you are doing is new to you.
Improperly built water systems leak. Easy way to see if you are leaking if you have city water is to just look at the meter, if its spinning slowly, you are leaking. You can tell this is your first time ever dealing with water lines. If it leaks, re do it. You dont have to be an expert to care and do something right. Teflon tape was originally made for threaded metal pipes, to prevent rust lock, so when the pipes rust, you dont have to completely replace the joint. If you have leaks you need to go back, clean the pipe again and use the adhesive again. I have lived on my property since before PSD municipal water was offered in my area, so my house has both a hand dug well 10 foot wide and 20 foot deep with creek rock filled in to give the water a chamber, with electric pump and city water. I had hand dug water lines for the 2 trailers on the property from the city water connection that runs along the county road and is about 50 yards from the trailers, and had to cross a 6 foot wide creek with the line. Those drips add up over time and if you do have a drip, you will end up paying an outrageous water bill. But if you want to work yourselves to death by carrying water all the time, go for it. Edit: All that work you did in this video just because you refuse to use the proper tools: PVC adhesive and cleaner. A few bucks at the hardware store would have saved you all this time and effort, and it would have been done right, and without any leaks. This video has revealed a defeatist attitude, you were ready to fail, and were fine with failing. I would hate to see other projects you guys do. If you are not willing to find the problem and fix it, pay someone to do it for you, because everything you have spent on this system will be a waste of money in the end unless either you or someone who is willing to fix it right fixes the problems. This is a good idea, but so far the execution is bad.
Water is like love. It will find a way. You can do everything correctly and still have leaks. All in all, the type and amount of leaks you have is quite remarkable, for the amount of fittings and variety that you have. I'd say concentrate on the flow rate of all leaks and if it's within reason, leave go of it. The thing about chasing leaks is that you can cause more leaks trying to solve a small drip. You could also have bad fittings from the manufacturer. Rare but just one can drive you insane. It's not like it's in your living space. Ina who, good luck with your projects. I think you're doing a great job. The fact that you 're both still sain is a reward in and of its self.
Also you should use about 2-3 feet of Galvanized pipe hooked to the hydrant so when you turn it on and off the hydrant will be stable. Teflon tape is only to be used on SOME threads. Compression fittings you do not use Teflon tape and also connections with beveled fitting do not use. When you use tape make sure you put your tape on going right. Not left. It must go on the thread the same way you thread your connection.
i watch all your videos and never comment, but i'm starting to care! please pay attention to the 'flexible pipe between the tanks comments' - slip joint might work, but maybe won't give enough for unpredictable settling - resist the temptation to backfill until you totally fill those tanks and check for leaks at full capacity and pressure. i couldn't tell if that was your plan or not, i just heard 'backfill tomorrow' and got nervous for you. run the system all summer and fall then backfill before winter so you stop digging up stuff.
Well ... My installation was fine, I was very happy and proud to have solar hot water... And you know what ? 6-7 days later it started to leak... I still have to fix it, but I hate plumbing ! Good luck for with your project !
There is a tape called "Monster Tape". It is a blue teflon tape. Depending on the size of the threaded fitting, you want to overlap, or double wrap. If it is one inch threads, so a slight overlap, and then double wrap. If you put it on too thick, it will push off the threads when you thread it together, and too thin will not seal the threads well. With all of that said, use a pipe dope on top of the threads (teflon after wrapping). The purpose for the pipe dope is to allow the threads to slip over the teflon tape without moving it, so that it stays in tact between the mating threads. If you do this properly, IT WILL NOT LEAK! Good luck.
You have to design in flexibility. Straight tees with no swing joints of flex couplings will leak and eventually fail. Threaded plastic fittings won't take any off axis stress. The threads deform and leak. Bulkhead fittings the same way. Those tanks will settle as weight is added to them, causing leaks and eventually failure of the connections. With a poly system, it's best to use as few threaded fittings as possible. Heat fused joints are best, but it takes special equipment to do that. Contractors do those connections all the time on poly. Everything has to be able to move without putting off axis stress in the fittings.
You could or should look into using shipping containers to make some of your house or housing area, as part of your property build, you could make a green house with it. Or you could use it as part of the support of your house depending on how you use it or a garage or loads of other stuff, you should consider it. Research it, make sure if you do it to get 9 Foot 6 Inch ones over 8 Inch 6 inch ones depending on what you do. But you really should look into it, because the cost to use could be of effect or use for you, it could even be buried into the ground and used as a root cellar and loads of other stuff. Also if you decided to do it, be careful of used containers over new if you don't get new.
My tips: You have to take into account the thermal expansion of each of your plastic components. Use more flexible hoses. E.g. between your cistern tanks Allow pipes to expand by leaving a room for expansion. Didi Hametaher - Water Engineering & Purification
This is a wholesome comedy, it doesn't get better than this. I do not want to be insulting ... "Hook up the truck and pull ot down hill? what plumber ever did that?
Glad you got the sun protection shirts. At least you know you hate the heat! I live in Eastern Texas where it is hot and humid and easily over 90 from May through September at a minimum so I am glad you have the A/C. Well I hibernate in the summer versus in the winter but I don't shovel snow!! All the best to you !
I have two suggestions for you on connecting the two tanks. (1) place Unions between the rigid pieces and pieces that twist (screw on) and (2) build a "s" turn between the two unions. By "s" turn I mean something like elbow to the left with an 18" straight, two elbows to the right with a short piece (just enough to connect the elbows making the U turn) with a 36" straight, another U turn pair of elbows with a 18" straight back to center with a final elbow. That should give enough "flex" to handle a couple of inches of shift on all three axises.
PIPE DOPE! agree with all the other folks about a flexible pipe between the two tanks. they are gonna shift and settle and that PVC is gonna fracture eventually.
It looks like maybe you're applying the teflon tape too high up on the threads. Tape up there at the top half of the thread is not going to help the joint at all. Try starting the tape right down at the first or second thread, winding in the direction that the tape will pull tight as the fittings are threaded together.
Fawlty towers at its best, who else cringed when he over tightened those plastic compression joints? Nonetheless very entertaining , it leaves you looking forward to the next episode and ensuing disaster. Pulling on the pipe to straighten it, pure comic genius, I wish we got to see the shouting match when it disconnected. Please keep up the comedy, love it.
Well, from an armchair-Saturday afternoon quarterback former plumber perspective: Plumbing ALWAYS LOOKS easier that is really is. I was taught never to bury threaded connections where the threads themselves are holding the seal (ie. those galvanized threaded 90 degree angels). In a perfect world every underground joint would be welded (plastic, brass, bronze, copper, steel). Flaring is next best. Compression is just OK. Gasket less so. Good luck and God bless you two. Love your everything!
Your pipe has shrunk ! The contraction is because it is now filled with cool water. Always make long lengths of plastic pipe longer than needed for cold water and shorter for hot. Pulling the pipe with the truck will likely couse damage elsewhere unless you have slack in the pipeline you can take up
When looking for leaks on outside pipe, you can sprinkle some dry dirt over the connections and then let them run a bit. Check everything after a while and any dirt that's wet...there's your leak.
The connection between the two tanks only needs to be 1/2 of the fill volume or 1/2 the drain volume whichever is larger, a smaller pipe would work. I would also install a flex line or coupling between the two tank for settling as stated below.
On cistern joint heat the connecting pipe with heat gun or torch. Make sure that there is no water in pipe. You just want to soften the pipe not melt. Then tighten the bulkhead fitting and let cool. That will adjust for the angle without other fittings and no leaks. It will not weaken your system.
You said it best at the end of the video; do it right and read your comments. Don't backfill until you fix that connection between your tanks it's gonna settle. I'd hate to see all your good work go to waste. You guys keep having good comments but don't listen to people who have lots of experience. Your ac isn't using the right connectors either. A guy commented on that who was an electrician; I love your guy's and I appreciate the ambition. Don't get discouraged but at the same time read your comments people 😃👍
The alignment of the cisterns are off enough that there is a flex in the pipe. And there is no guarantee the cisterns won't shift over time. So you either need a more flexible connection. Or move the cisterns further apart, so the overall stress per inch of pipe is lowered. Less stress means less deformation. Or you can arrange the cisterns side by side. So you will have a U shaped elbow. Or side-by-side with the second one slightly elevated. So when your water is low, all of the water is in one.
Hi hey just want to let you know when you fill the trenches do it slowly. Put dirt and pound slightly aroung the pipes ,if you just por the dirt ontop it will calaps the tubes.slowly fill and pound around the tubing onece you cover the tubing knock you self out ,and fill the trench. And at every connection put a box around it to fix when needed.never let the connections get bearied make boxes for them. Please let me know haw it goes.
Well after a quick look at some other posts I won't be surprised if you don't listen to anyone. After working quite a bit with poly watering systems, I can say you just needed more room between fittings. That way you make use of its ability to flex and not put pressure on the threaded connections, I learnt this the long way too. If you have a confined area to work in, go all threaded connections. With the house to come there will be more plumbing.
I have done my fair share of plumbing to include larger dia pipes. I had a leak within one system and did some research and found that threaded connections over 1 inch it is highly recommended that you use a product similar to T Plus 2. Once I demoed the system and used it it sealed the leak. Additionally you should install a PVC valve on both ends of your tanks so that you are able to isolate your tanks, install a union for the connected tanks. I am not trying to criticize you but a properly installed system should not leak and in order to pass code won't. A small leak over time will erode into a major issue. Good luck. Last thing I noticed you learned plumbing shouldn't be under tension.
Greetings from Spain guys! If you allow me one suggestion; dont you think it would be convenient to build a concrete manhole around these big connections and valves for easy access instead of having them just buried? Best of luck with your project, awesome channel!
OMG! Please, PLEASE fix all leaks before back filling! My house is built in 1964, i went away for two months and my meter did not move anything! For reference, i can start a drip in the tap with one drop every 5 minutes and it shows on the meter after only a hour or so. A water system should be tight, a leak will create a larger leak over time, be vulnerable for contaminations and will undoubtedly give you lots of problems in the future. Also, don´t use silicone trying to fix the leaks. There is "gasket in a tube" that is silicone based, but even those tend to leak after a while (especially when there is movement involved). Jessie and Alyssa, please listen to all these people trying to help you.
SLIP JOINT connectors! Otherwise use a pair of 90 degree elbows so that the connectors don't leak when the ground shifts. Take a look at service station fuel tank underground plumbing for additional examples of leak 'RESISTANT' plumbing. Hope this helps.
Hey have you tired using soap on your fitting if there is a leak you will see the soap bubbles,use a paint brush and brush the soap on the fittings,Good luck I love watching your videos they are so awesome
Yup,We live in Maine....Teflon tape AND pipe dope seems to never leak along with a psi test for 12 hours with a gauge on it for the inspection department.....good luck..!
I have 1/2 mile of water pipe between my house and my meter, and it has no leaks .My house has been vacant for over 3 years, because my wife and I are take care of my elderly mother across state, after my father passed away. I shut the water off under the house, and shut it off at the meter, and I winterized the house. for the first 8 months, there was zero change on the meter reading, but on month 9 it showed over 2000 gallons. I had a plumber friend go over to investigate, and he found that rain runoff had exposed a section of water pipe, and it froze and busted. Our water meter was bypassing its shutoff valve (a problem I was aware of from another repair). Once the pipe was repaired, and reburied, the usage returned to zero. It is a dang shame, that I have had to pay $29.05 a month for that meter to sit there.
There is different Teflon tape for gas and waterlines. Use hemp on the leaking fittings. The water swells the hemp and seals it. It will work very good. See Griffon products.
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Sorry to see you having problems with this. Just a little something to think about. You installed the plumbing with the tanks empty. A gallon of water weighs 8.34 pounds at 62F. As you add water to those tanks they are going to get really heavy and settle and settle a lot. They will not settle exactly the same or even straight. One or both may tilt some from one end to the other. You could have several inches difference and even more. You have a rigid line between them so the tanks will most likely always leak or start to leak at some point if you do not change that setup. My suggestion is to cut the rigid line between the tanks and take out a section, perhaps a foot if possible or more, and re-connect them with some kind of flexible hose clamped with heavy duty hose camps. Slide the hose over the pipes at least two or three inches and clamp each end. Also allow some slack in the hose if possible for tank settling so it does not bind the connections and cause another leak. As for down below I think you will work that out, but remember that ground is going to move over time so things cannot be where they will bind or leaks will happen. Wishing you the best, God bless.
I feel your pain, I've run miles and miles of pipe for snowmaking at various ski resorts in Canada. The largest cause of leaks for me was misalignments, if there's any lateral stress on a threaded joint it's almost certain to leak, especially on the air lines (snow making systems usually have a pair of pipes, one water one air). Nice to see you guys going the extra mile on your system, don't give up yet!
Whenever you install a plumbing system you should either hydrostatic or pneumatic test the system @ 1 1/2 times the design pressure leave the system for 24 hours and if you have not lost any pressure then the installation is good. If the needle on the pressure gauge has moved any at all there is a leak that should be fixed. What I am telling you is generally accepted construction practice. I am trying to save you time, money and a headache down the road. Read my previous post for plumbing your water tanks.
Ok guys, love your passion but the water system should not leak lol; sorry Jessie! I'm actually a master plumber, so I'm not just going to give suggestions but explain what's happening. On ANY compression syle fitting, you DO NOT use Teflon on the threads, as that ISNT the sealing point of that syle connection. The act of the compression is the ONLY sealing point and if water is getting past that then it'll always leak until enough setimeit fills the void, and that's not good for anything. On plastic fittings and poly style pipe, it's all about the chamfers and the cut being as square as possible (actual pipe cutter). They make a chamfer tool that creates a exact same size chamfer the entire diameter of the pipe, so the back pressure from the pressure locking nut is evenly distributed inside the inner pipe stop of the fitting. The plastic doesn't have the rigidity that the older metal style fittings had and you can never get enough force from them to pressure seal a non perfect fitting connection. So on the leak areas in the poly, I'd redo the chamfer with the tool, or try to fix it by hand (as you'll see where the majority of the pressure is being applied and trim the opposite side to compensate). Next you're fighting water pressure and a leak point, on poly to make a seal it only works when DRY! you need to shut down the system before the leak point, disassemble the connection, clean and dry, then thighten. You can prob stop most of your minor leaks thus far by just doing this step (as in the t-fitting you originally pulled on thinking the tension was to much). On any NTP thread connections like the galvanized connections, use Teflon tape and finish off with a coating of pipe dope (liquid Teflon) on top always applied the way of the threads. Exspeically if they will be in accessable later on. Last but not least, the connections or fittings that seal to the sisturns (the main lower pvc connection), only seal on the inner rubber seal. You were kind of on the right track with a grain of sand allowing the leak path, it was most likely the fact that you didn't have it tight enough dry and the bit of bind on the difference in height is causing the leak trail. Unfortunately you'll need to drain the system, then just clean up and dry both sides in both tanks and use the new tool to snug them up a bit better to begin with. Another trick is to coat the side of the rubber washer with pipe dope that is in contact with the tank, it'll make a better seal and allow the ring to retain it's shape while being thightened. Sometimes you can pipe dope o-ring style connections, but the Teflon and the rubber of the rings sometimes react overtime if the rings are made with certain rubbers. So it's better to just snug those when dry to and try them with just a bit of water, if leaks, let dry for a bit and give it another quarter turn, then test again. It's time consuming but it's the quickest way with any large poly pipe compression/rubber seal connections. Great job and I love your guys passion and stride to figure it out, keep it up! I wouldn't normally write a how-to because I know you both hear it enough, I just want to help and figured this advice would help in the future too. I'd be happy to answer questions in private email or by phone too, just let me know. I'm an HVAC pro too, as I guess almost all of us plumbers are lol. Good job on the new AC, but it needs to draw in fresh ambiant air, that enclosere over the trailer is going to impead that and drastically reduce it's effecieny and it's life span on the compressor. She needs fresh air moving through her at all times, so maybe roll up a tarp on the roof near it? Just another thought, I'll stop lol. Good luck guys, love the channel and the effort!!!!
Patrick .. Good information. Thank you.
Finally....somebody that knows what they are talking about.
These poor kids don't stand a chance of making this lifestyle work....and the advise from the raving lunatics in the comment section will only expedite their eventual demise.
It's like a train wreck.....ya can't look away.
It's difficult to give proper advice because I can't see all the bits and pieces of the compression fittings. Compression fittings made of plastic always relies on everything being dead nuts straight with ZERO outside pressure on them. Plastic flexes so ya..... For runs of plastic black pipe I always use metal barb fittings straight into metal piping/fittings of some sort.
1. Metal threaded fittings force you to use proper angles (no problems with plastic getting torqued
2. The barb fittings are bullet proof. Press em onto the black plastic, hit it with a heat gun and clamp em down (be careful with overheat, don't melt the pipe). Never a leak in hundreds of installs is all I have to claim.
3. Pipe dope on the metal threads. Nothing much to say here, again it's bullet proof. Also very easy to go to copper or standard PVC pipe since there are a myriad of threaded adapters.
I can sort of understand where frustration can come into play. So many "experts" out there that say "this is the easiest to install" or it just requires the least skill.. "It's like legos, just pop em together" And the ever popular "If you ever have a problem, this is very easy to disassemble and fix" Properly installed lines don't have problems....
Jessie, please pay attention and take the advise from this man. And TAKE HIM UP ON HIS CONSULTING OFFER! CALL THE DUDE!
THAT POINT OF CONNECTION NEEDS TO BE DIRT FREE ALSO, OR IT LEAKS.
Hang in there guys! You can figure it out! Don't let these challenges get you down!
To ease some of the stress on that white PVC pipe, take a small soldering torch and gently heat that baby up. It will lightly and temporarily soften the pipe. That will allow each end "settle" to match each tank. You wont need to apply a lot of heat to relieve the stress and get those fittings in each tank to cinch up. Take your time with it since you have water in the pipe already. I've run into this sooo many times setting septic tanks, cisterns, etc... - when the plumber/crew didn't get the pipes or tanks laid out -or when the tank shifts in position for one reason or another.
Stay hydrated! I live in Florida and staying out and working on a hot day can cause heat stroke. Be careful, be safe and keep up the great work!
I wouldn't backfill around any connection for a long while. There is a solution for all your leaks. Call the manufacturer.
I'm so impressed with your attitudes towards each other. Very caring. A huge contribution.
Why didn't you use a really heavy duty flexible hose between the cisterns? Wouldn't that solve the issue of the tanks not needing to be perfectly aligned? I would also think that allows for some play in the distance between the cisterns.
Yeah, they will find that out once they start backfilling and low and behold that causes force on the cisterns and they might move and shift about (esp. if you don't fill them first, so hopefully they do that, but low and behold that might cause them to set too) ... and obviously if you don't have some play in the connection it will either start to leak or it will downright break.
Something to remember too, working in high heat effects your ability to make good decisions. So when you were doing the install and it was hot and you were working long and hard you likely made a few poor decisions (like not adding the Teflon tape, to connections, or not moving the pipe down far enough) which then resulted in these leaks. Sometimes it is a wiser move to stop and take a break or finish the next day than to push through and keep working in the heat. I learned that well when living in AZ, and it has helped prepare me for living in Eastern WA.
But you are chipping away and getting so close to finished. It sucks running into these last minute problems, but this stuff happens when your doing this sort of work.
Even though you are trying to keep your expenses down, sometimes for numerous reasons it is better to call in the professionals. You've spent several month working on this and have a ways to go. If you want to have your timbers ready for when construction begins you should be cutting them now and not be spending more time on your water service. I hope that when construction begins that you at least have professionals do the foundation. If the foundation is done right and is bang on things will be easier for you down the road. I'm not trying to be critical. I just want you to be successful. Be safe.
I've become addicted to your videos. The two of you are doing a great job and I thank you for taking the time to share your adventure even when things are not going as planned. Stay the course and try not to get overwhelmed with the size of this adventure. It took me 15 years to build my street rod and that pales in comparison to what you are doing.
Great job Alyssa editing these videos!!!!!!!!!
Peter
These guys and their vids should serve as an example of to do it the right way the first time. If you don't you'll end up like these two.
hi guys I wanted to give you a heads up. We are full time in our motorhome and we were in FL. for the molest 4 years so our AC was used a lot. The plug (30 amp) finally burnt up. rather than go buy a new one, I decided I'll just splice one in from an existing cord (That the other end was gone) I did the same thing as you did used 2 butt ends, I wasn't worried about fire or any thing because it was outside. Time forward about 14 months and we are now in Illinois at my daughter's, we were here about 3 weeks and lost power......I didn't even think about the splice till it was the only thing it could have been. Sure enough the hot side (black) was melted and burnt in two. I understand that we use a lot more power than you guys, but if I were you I'd check it once a month (I know is a pain but you only have to do it when it hot and you use your A.C. a lot) It makes good sense
You guys are so awesome. You are the Joanna and Chip Gaines of RUclips! Good chemistry, good logical thought threads. Nice to see all the problems you guys worked through together. And no big million dollar production budget either.
i learn so much from the comment section
Like your attitude , I'm a retired plumber and I know how frustrating things can get , than you add heat or cold and it's worst guys, keep up the fight your not doing bad for a couple weekend warriors.
This is a prime example of DIY and life. They are very simular. Keep at it and it will get better.
I agree with the flexible connection between the two tanks.
You have another issue that awaits you.
Air pressure building in your tanks as you fill them or a vacuum as you drain them. So, you should put vents on the top of each tank this way you will not have any issues with air pressures. If you only want one vent. You will need to put a second connection at the top bung between the two tanks and the vent can be placed on the second tank. This way you don't trap air in the second tank and the water can flow between the two tanks with no issues.
If you think the over fill line will act as your vent it could but if you lay it on the ground you will have bugs getting into your tank. you will still need to put an overflow connection to the second tank or the connect on the second bung.
No a properly installed system using things like pipe dope and teflon tape will not and does not - leak. Code when properly followed actually requires that a system maintains air pressure ( air molecules are smaller then water) for 24 hrs ( and I won't talk about the health reasons associated with leaks). Also never use teflon tape on compression fittings. I used to work with hydraulic and pneumatic systems, one full turn plus a side and that's it with compression fittings. If you warp the ferrule by over tightening you will never get it to seal, best bet at that point is cut it off and start again. All that said. You guys are awesome and do a great job. Keep learning, keep growing and dont compromise.
I am a licensed master plumber/contractor. Non-Metallic joints NEVER make up. Allowing a little leak will cause erosion of the soil a much worse problems.
You are not using a pipe wrench on the galvanized fittings..... sorry ChannelLox just doesn't cut it. Teflon tale is NOT a sealant it just allows for easier tightening. Use liquid teflon.
I am so glad you guys keep your sense of humor and hang in their like no one else
IMO you will have a continual leak problem between your cistern tanks because you have a rigid connection between them. Once you fill them with the water weight and then bury them, with seasonal fluctuations they will be settling and moving for at least a year. You need a flexible connection between those tanks.
I'm just here for the comments
lol
sc1212able me too! 😂
This is what I have grown to like about the channel. Jesse & Alyssa innocently marching ahead, doing stuff in the most difficult way possible, while commenters try to help them in vein. You can often tell what's going to happen months in advance just by reading the comments.
they very rarely do . their channel is huge and they are busy making tons of money ......and money is no problem for them judging by the amount of machinery they hire and buy , so im sure they dont really care if things go wrong , more views more money and can get experts in to fix if they cant lol , when channels get this big its all about the money , if they want to reply to comments they need to get hired help to answer on their behalf .....i unsubscribed after their little childish rant about youtube a month ago and also the fact that expecting a reply to a comment is like lookin for a needle in a haystack .......after all this i admit i still watch them but way too much money flying around (flying lessons etc) lol
Read more
They may make less money than you think: www.businessinsider.com/how-much-money-youtube-stars-actually-make-2014-2
People in RUclips tend to be experts in everything.. it leaked? That’s a learning process for you guys. The great thing is that you are learning and you are leaning on the things your are doing with good will and hard work. I hope you guys are well and everything is fine! God bless.
I've come to the place where I quit using teflon tape and use TFE paste exclusively. Plenty of taped joints have small leaks but I have yet to have a joint leak when using TFE paste.
However... you are correct to assume the small leaks will stop on their own over time. Potable water has sediment and silt that will collect in the threads of a weeping joint and it will seal up on it's own. Great videos.
As I have been watching these water system videos I keep hearing my Father stand over me saying one of his favorite sayings, "If a whole lot of pipe dope and teflon tape is good, too much is better". I miss him as he passed away in 1997.
I love these two. But is anyone else terrified that they are building a structure that people will be in?
Wow! It's sad how many people thumbed down on this video. I would love to see them attempt something so brave, and adventurous. Thank you for the content!
I had a reverse osmosis at home and each time I replace the active charcoal filtration and the sediment filtration, the quick connect leak at 50% of the time. So I melt the same plastic (PVC) and It's welded the plastic where the leak was. Plastic can be weld by ultrason and flame. I hope this was helpful. Hot clue stick hated up by flame can be a great choice to stop leak.
In Spain we use a lot of plastic pipes and they tend to leak first time then tighten but always always Teflon tape. The other thing to note is keep stress off the joint. Also the seals need to be greased so they don't twist when tightening up.
I was suggested your channel after watching a few videos from a guy called Urban Farmer. Since yesterday I probably watch 30 of your videos and I am hooked! I love your format and how informative some of your stuff is. Can't wait to see the end of this project and the beginning of the next!
I know it is a little late now, but I really recommend to use the brass connector fittings for the PE pipe. They can take all the stress and are way better to get tight!
Depending on how you hold the roll of teflon it will self tension on the pipe so you do not have to pull off random lengths of tefon. Makes it easier to keep to smooth and flat.
No insult to you or your work, but PLEASE read the comments. There is much knowledge there.
this is getting better than a B-roll sitcom. i'm not a huge sitcom fan.
I could never agree that all water systems leak. Well built systems done by people who know what they're doing don't leak
You 2 have a lot of heart. I bet your patents are so proud. God bless
You have shown why I hate plumbing with a passion. Good luck y'all.
I was a water plant operator for a large city. All systems leak. If the pressure in the pipe drops below 20 PSI They order a boil water, because theoretically if the pressure drops below 20 PSI ground water can enter the system. That is the ONLY reason they order boil water JFI .Keep up the great vids :)
Your hard work, good attitudes will be rewarded keep at it. But please don't accept leaks in your water system. It should not leak and the leaks you have now will get worse over time and with more pressure. Contamination could also be an issue with leaks. You know you have to hang in there and get this thing right, even if it costs time and money.
In residential construction here in Concord California we do leak tests of all the plumbing in new, and remodeled homes. Vent tubes are filled with water and left over night to see if the drainage system leaks (also called hydro-static testing). Water inlets (copper / brass pipe) are tested once they are finished by pressurizing the system to ensure sweat joints are clean and secure.
There shouldn't be a leak.
PVC pipe joints should be cleaned, prime, glued, then twisted at least a quarter turn to ensure proper seal. MAKE SURE WHEN YOU CUT PLASTIC PIPE THAT YOUR CUT IS SQUARE TO GET THE MOST CONTACTING SURFACE IN A JOINT.
Copper / brass should be sanded, to clean the contacting surfaces, fluxed on both mating surfaces, put together , heated till they change color, then dabbed with solder. The solder should fall into the joint like you would imagine water would. If you end up with a lumpy and ugly sweat joint chances are it will leak. WIPE DOWN THE COPPER PIPE AFTER YOU SWEAT A JOINT TO REMOVE EXCESS FLUX OR IT WILL CORRODE THE PIPE.
Anything that screws together should be hit with #1 Pipe Dope as Covert Radio said, or #2 Teflon tape. PLASTIC PIPING SHOULD ONLY BE SCREWED ON HAND TIGHT.
Drain pipes should have no less than 1/4 inch of fall per foot, BUT NO MORE THAN 3 INCHES PER FOOT OTHER THAN A VERTICAL FALL. A slope of less than 1/4-inch per foot will cause constant clogs and a slope of more than three inches will allow the water to drain without the solids.
Secure your copper inlet pipes to studs every so often to prevent a shaking pipe. If you do not secure a pressurized inlet pipe it will shake in a wall and possible loosen a sweat joint causing a leak. Additionally, shaking is noisy and irritating when water is turned on.
Not trying to be critical. You should probably try putting flexible fittings between your cisterns. Whether you like it or not mother nature is always moving things around. Cut your pipe in between and place a neoprene tube splice to join them up. This will allow things to move around and not break.
yip rigid pipe there is a problem ,you can use 4 elbows and with short lengths of pipe to make a goose neck too add some flexibility between the cisterns , the smallest misalignment will cause a leak
You're absolutely Correct about water systems slightly leaking. Like you, I plumbed most of my 10 acres and I periodically find new little leaks here and there. And I know I have some that I'll never find. As long as they're not major, I can live with it. Also, I've had some success using a water pressure gauge on a hose bib to confirm leaks. Oh, and I also use BOTH Teflon tape and pipe dope. I've found that it works great!
There's a bit of a drip in the system alright, but Alyssa keeps letting him mess with things... ;)
Highwayman 66 LMAO yup
when you do have to fix the join between the tanks, put a shut off valve on each side so you can isolate either tank and save the water in the one you are not going to work on. just a suggestion that may save frustration in future. if you work on the end tank you isolate the front tank from receiving water from end tank.lower level on front tank and pump the water from rear to front or vise versa. I think you get what I mean. of course that is when you have no choice but to do the repair, then do the upgrade. Be vigilant guys as you have been throughout this journey. You give everybody hope and inspiration for their journey as well. God bless.
Please don't backfill anything else until the system is 100% complete.
You two are awesome!! But trust me use Teflon tape ( if you can see light through it is low quality and don't use it) and pipe dope on every connection!!
Can I make a suggestion you may or may not have already heard, that is to buy a 10x10 pop up tent for shade used for localized projects. I live in Orlando Fl. and by 9am it close to 85 to 90 degrees and heading to 95 by noon or higher with 95% humidity. It works great as long as I stay under the tent. I have the metalized coating on the underside and it blocks the UV the best. Just a suggestion and Thanks for the videos, hard work, restless nights, and bug-a-boo.
I started watching your videos a little while ago. I don't normally comment on videos but feel the need to speak up on the water system. I have spent 25 years in the civil engineering industry, engineering, designing, specifying, and inspecting thousands of water systems from individual residences to major city water infrastructure systems so I have a little experience in the area. Here some things that you should really think through before you call this system finished. These are things that you may not find in a DIY guide to water design.
Water Tank bedding (the sand layer under your tanks) should - (keys to solid long life span of tank system)
1. Have a Uniform thickness - based on your native soil type or tank spec whichever is thicker (no scrimping on the edges).
2. Should be level - such that both tanks are at the same elevation (level with each other).
3. Should be compacted (before the tanks are installed).
4. If the native soil does not support the sand a geotextile liner may need to be installed before the bedding is installed.
5. If done right the tanks should settle very probably less than 1/4 in when filled.
Tank Plumbing should - (for leak proof assembly and access planning)
1. Have a control valve on the line between the tanks and after exiting the last tank for maintenance set in insulated access boxes.
2. flexible or adjustable fittings between the tanks to allow for expansion or slight settling.
3. Threaded rigid pipes that are in stress at a joint will not seal no matter how much teflon, silicon, or pipe compound you use.
4. If the joints leak at the tank they could over time undermine you entire water system.
Flexible Pipe Trenching / Encasement
1. While pipe encasement is used to allow for quick access without re-excavation it is usually run in short lengths for crossing roads and other obstructions.
2. Encased pipe is usually wedged with blocks or grouted to stop the pipe inside from movement during use. Thrust (pipe movement due to trapped air traveling in the pipe) will cause unsecured pipes to jump and move weakening the adjacent joints and even undermining the bedding.
3. What keeps pipes from freezing in the winter when buried below 3 ft is the compact bedding/soil around the pipe acting as a natural heat transfer. By adding an open encasement you are allowing cold air (or hot air) to get to the pipe surface and effect the temperature in the water. You may need to pack the encasement entrance and exit to stop air movement through the encasement.
Sorry but when you pump up a system for test and it has a leak you will not get passed off. Thats why we have to pump up to 1500 kpa for no less than 30 mins. Hydro static tests are designed to make sure you have no leaks in your system. Not trying to be rude its just a lot of work goes into plumbing and a lot of people think its not as hard as it looks.
What is your opposition to silicone out of curiosity?
That said, big flat gaskets like that A) you're dreaming if you think that'll seal itself and B) you should just pull it apart for a visual examination. Chances are it is easily fixable. Gaskets made properly seal at remarkably low torque, very rarely does the "turn it tighter" thing actually work.
It's probably a good idea to use flexible line between the tanks inevitably one tank will settle more than the other
My father was a plumber who gave me some VERY GOOD advice. The leak you want to find the most is the LAST one. 'Cause then you get paid !
+John Mulhall Genuis!
I went to school for 5 years to learn plumbing. these guys get it from Mario. where did I go wrong...
5y to learn about plumbing o.O aint it normally 3.5y ?
considering there are 50 states in this great union all with their own plumbing code "normal" doesn't really apply to the level of education needed
Teflon or PTFE tape around the joint was always the solution. p.s, all water systems don't leak!
Good day,
Want to give you a tip, if either a metal pipe leaks the procedure is use a bit of plumbers hemp some teflon tape and then some thread sealant,then it won't leak 100%.
Now for pvc/plastic use teflon tape with thread sealant and it will seal the imperfections in the thread after the sealant had dried and won't leak 100%.
I learnt these tips the hard way. Use them you won't regret it.
Super Mario Level.... That had me crying with laughter...
Alyssa, Jesse is lucky to have you, you are a star.
Don't worry about all the folks saying you guys don't know what you are doing, you are doing great considering virtually everything you are doing is new to you.
Improperly built water systems leak. Easy way to see if you are leaking if you have city water is to just look at the meter, if its spinning slowly, you are leaking. You can tell this is your first time ever dealing with water lines. If it leaks, re do it. You dont have to be an expert to care and do something right.
Teflon tape was originally made for threaded metal pipes, to prevent rust lock, so when the pipes rust, you dont have to completely replace the joint. If you have leaks you need to go back, clean the pipe again and use the adhesive again. I have lived on my property since before PSD municipal water was offered in my area, so my house has both a hand dug well 10 foot wide and 20 foot deep with creek rock filled in to give the water a chamber, with electric pump and city water. I had hand dug water lines for the 2 trailers on the property from the city water connection that runs along the county road and is about 50 yards from the trailers, and had to cross a 6 foot wide creek with the line. Those drips add up over time and if you do have a drip, you will end up paying an outrageous water bill. But if you want to work yourselves to death by carrying water all the time, go for it.
Edit: All that work you did in this video just because you refuse to use the proper tools: PVC adhesive and cleaner. A few bucks at the hardware store would have saved you all this time and effort, and it would have been done right, and without any leaks. This video has revealed a defeatist attitude, you were ready to fail, and were fine with failing. I would hate to see other projects you guys do. If you are not willing to find the problem and fix it, pay someone to do it for you, because everything you have spent on this system will be a waste of money in the end unless either you or someone who is willing to fix it right fixes the problems. This is a good idea, but so far the execution is bad.
Water is like love. It will find a way. You can do everything correctly and still have leaks. All in all, the type and amount of leaks you have is quite remarkable, for the amount of fittings and variety that you have. I'd say concentrate on the flow rate of all leaks and if it's within reason, leave go of it. The thing about chasing leaks is that you can cause more leaks trying to solve a small drip. You could also have bad fittings from the manufacturer. Rare but just one can drive you insane. It's not like it's in your living space. Ina who, good luck with your projects. I think you're doing a great job. The fact that you 're both still sain is a reward in and of its self.
Jesse, I saw the fitting spinning on the poly tube. That is a compression fitting. Should have held the blue end and tightened the other end.
Also you should use about 2-3 feet of Galvanized pipe hooked to the hydrant so when you turn it on and off the hydrant will be stable. Teflon tape is only to be used on SOME threads. Compression fittings you do not use Teflon tape and also connections with beveled fitting do not use. When you use tape make sure you put your tape on going right. Not left. It must go on the thread the same way you thread your connection.
i watch all your videos and never comment, but i'm starting to care! please pay attention to the 'flexible pipe between the tanks comments' - slip joint might work, but maybe won't give enough for unpredictable settling - resist the temptation to backfill until you totally fill those tanks and check for leaks at full capacity and pressure. i couldn't tell if that was your plan or not, i just heard 'backfill tomorrow' and got nervous for you. run the system all summer and fall then backfill before winter so you stop digging up stuff.
Well ... My installation was fine, I was very happy and proud to have solar hot water... And you know what ? 6-7 days later it started to leak... I still have to fix it, but I hate plumbing ! Good luck for with your project !
There is a tape called "Monster Tape". It is a blue teflon tape. Depending on the size of the threaded fitting, you want to overlap, or double wrap. If it is one inch threads, so a slight overlap, and then double wrap. If you put it on too thick, it will push off the threads when you thread it together, and too thin will not seal the threads well. With all of that said, use a pipe dope on top of the threads (teflon after wrapping). The purpose for the pipe dope is to allow the threads to slip over the teflon tape without moving it, so that it stays in tact between the mating threads. If you do this properly, IT WILL NOT LEAK! Good luck.
You have to design in flexibility. Straight tees with no swing joints of flex couplings will leak and eventually fail. Threaded plastic fittings won't take any off axis stress. The threads deform and leak. Bulkhead fittings the same way. Those tanks will settle as weight is added to them, causing leaks and eventually failure of the connections. With a poly system, it's best to use as few threaded fittings as possible. Heat fused joints are best, but it takes special equipment to do that. Contractors do those connections all the time on poly.
Everything has to be able to move without putting off axis stress in the fittings.
You could or should look into using shipping containers to make some of your house or housing area, as part of your property build, you could make a green house with it. Or you could use it as part of the support of your house depending on how you use it or a garage or loads of other stuff, you should consider it. Research it, make sure if you do it to get 9 Foot 6 Inch ones over 8 Inch 6 inch ones depending on what you do. But you really should look into it, because the cost to use could be of effect or use for you, it could even be buried into the ground and used as a root cellar and loads of other stuff. Also if you decided to do it, be careful of used containers over new if you don't get new.
124 in AZ. Lol. Dry heat. Stop by south Caroline for some 104F plus 100 % humidity. Keep up the great work guys you rock. 👍🏻
I'm running water cooled AC,Saves lots of electricity.May not work in the desert but here in the Netherlands it works perfect.
glad to see I'm not the only one that has bad luck
My tips:
You have to take into account the thermal expansion of each of your plastic components.
Use more flexible hoses. E.g. between your cistern tanks
Allow pipes to expand by leaving a room for expansion.
Didi
Hametaher - Water Engineering & Purification
This is a wholesome comedy, it doesn't get better than this. I do not want to be insulting ...
"Hook up the truck and pull ot down hill? what plumber ever did that?
Definitely better music! Awesome job. Leaks are he worst especially if you have a lot of water in the cisterns and it makes it hard to fix.
Glad you got the sun protection shirts. At least you know you hate the heat! I live in Eastern Texas where it is hot and humid and easily over 90 from May through September at a minimum so I am glad you have the A/C. Well I hibernate in the summer versus in the winter but I don't shovel snow!! All the best to you !
I have two suggestions for you on connecting the two tanks. (1) place Unions between the rigid pieces and pieces that twist (screw on) and (2) build a "s" turn between the two unions. By "s" turn I mean something like elbow to the left with an 18" straight, two elbows to the right with a short piece (just enough to connect the elbows making the U turn) with a 36" straight, another U turn pair of elbows with a 18" straight back to center with a final elbow. That should give enough "flex" to handle a couple of inches of shift on all three axises.
PIPE DOPE! agree with all the other folks about a flexible pipe between the two tanks. they are gonna shift and settle and that PVC is gonna fracture eventually.
It looks like maybe you're applying the teflon tape too high up on the threads. Tape up there at the top half of the thread is not going to help the joint at all. Try starting the tape right down at the first or second thread, winding in the direction that the tape will pull tight as the fittings are threaded together.
Fawlty towers at its best, who else cringed when he over tightened those plastic compression joints? Nonetheless very entertaining , it leaves you looking forward to the next episode and ensuing disaster. Pulling on the pipe to straighten it, pure comic genius, I wish we got to see the shouting match when it disconnected. Please keep up the comedy, love it.
Well, from an armchair-Saturday afternoon quarterback former plumber perspective:
Plumbing ALWAYS LOOKS easier that is really is.
I was taught never to bury threaded connections where the threads themselves are holding the seal (ie. those galvanized threaded 90 degree angels). In a perfect world every underground joint would be welded (plastic, brass, bronze, copper, steel). Flaring is next best. Compression is just OK. Gasket less so. Good luck and God bless you two. Love your everything!
Your pipe has shrunk ! The contraction is because it is now filled with cool water. Always make long lengths of plastic pipe longer than needed for cold water and shorter for hot.
Pulling the pipe with the truck will likely couse damage elsewhere unless you have slack in the pipeline you can take up
When looking for leaks on outside pipe, you can sprinkle some dry dirt over the connections and then let them run a bit. Check everything after a while and any dirt that's wet...there's your leak.
The connection between the two tanks only needs to be 1/2 of the fill volume or 1/2 the drain volume whichever is larger, a smaller pipe would work. I would also install a flex line or coupling between the two tank for settling as stated below.
I enjoy watching you guys, you are real!! Well done!
On cistern joint heat the connecting pipe with heat gun or torch. Make sure that there is no water in pipe. You just want to soften the pipe not melt. Then tighten the bulkhead fitting and let cool. That will adjust for the angle without other fittings and no leaks. It will not weaken your system.
You said it best at the end of the video; do it right and read your comments. Don't backfill until you fix that connection between your tanks it's gonna settle. I'd hate to see all your good work go to waste. You guys keep having good comments but don't listen to people who have lots of experience. Your ac isn't using the right connectors either. A guy commented on that who was an electrician; I love your guy's and I appreciate the ambition. Don't get discouraged but at the same time read your comments people 😃👍
The alignment of the cisterns are off enough that there is a flex in the pipe. And there is no guarantee the cisterns won't shift over time.
So you either need a more flexible connection.
Or move the cisterns further apart, so the overall stress per inch of pipe is lowered. Less stress means less deformation.
Or you can arrange the cisterns side by side. So you will have a U shaped elbow.
Or side-by-side with the second one slightly elevated. So when your water is low, all of the water is in one.
You need at least 6 full turns of teflon tape plus I use sealing dope (boss white) as well; despite having a rubber o-ring. I have never had a leak
Hi hey just want to let you know when you fill the trenches do it slowly. Put dirt and pound slightly aroung the pipes ,if you just por the dirt ontop it will calaps the tubes.slowly fill and pound around the tubing onece you cover the tubing knock you self out ,and fill the trench. And at every connection put a box around it to fix when needed.never let the connections get bearied make boxes for them. Please let me know haw it goes.
Well after a quick look at some other posts I won't be surprised if you don't listen to anyone. After working quite a bit with poly watering systems, I can say you just needed more room between fittings. That way you make use of its ability to flex and not put pressure on the threaded connections, I learnt this the long way too. If you have a confined area to work in, go all threaded connections. With the house to come there will be more plumbing.
I have done my fair share of plumbing to include larger dia pipes. I had a leak within one system and did some research and found that threaded connections over 1 inch it is highly recommended that you use a product similar to T Plus 2. Once I demoed the system and used it it sealed the leak. Additionally you should install a PVC valve on both ends of your tanks so that you are able to isolate your tanks, install a union for the connected tanks. I am not trying to criticize you but a properly installed system should not leak and in order to pass code won't. A small leak over time will erode into a major issue. Good luck. Last thing I noticed you learned plumbing shouldn't be under tension.
Greetings from Spain guys! If you allow me one suggestion; dont you think it would be convenient to build a concrete manhole around these big connections and valves for easy access instead of having them just buried? Best of luck with your project, awesome channel!
OMG! Please, PLEASE fix all leaks before back filling!
My house is built in 1964, i went away for two months and my meter did not move anything! For reference, i can start a drip in the tap with one drop every 5 minutes and it shows on the meter after only a hour or so.
A water system should be tight, a leak will create a larger leak over time, be vulnerable for contaminations and will undoubtedly give you lots of problems in the future. Also, don´t use silicone trying to fix the leaks. There is "gasket in a tube" that is silicone based, but even those tend to leak after a while (especially when there is movement involved).
Jessie and Alyssa, please listen to all these people trying to help you.
This is why all residential systems are pressure tested for a minimum of 24 hours to pass..
SLIP JOINT connectors! Otherwise use a pair of 90 degree elbows so that the connectors don't leak when the ground shifts. Take a look at service station fuel tank underground plumbing for additional examples of leak 'RESISTANT' plumbing.
Hope this helps.
Man you guys are awesome water is biggest pain to stop! Wish there was special spray or something you could spray where it's leaking and stop it!
Duluth rocks! I was born and raised there! And hilarious Duluth trading company commercials!
Wow, it looks like there is a lot of good advice. And sadly, a lot of really mean people. Good luck trying to get this fixed. Love your videos.
Hey have you tired using soap on your fitting if there is a leak you will see the soap bubbles,use a paint brush and brush the soap on the fittings,Good luck
I love watching your videos they are so awesome
Yup,We live in Maine....Teflon tape AND pipe dope seems to never leak along with a psi test for 12 hours with a gauge on it for the inspection department.....good luck..!
I have 1/2 mile of water pipe between my house and my meter, and it has no leaks .My house has been vacant for over 3 years, because my wife and I are take care of my elderly mother across state, after my father passed away. I shut the water off under the house, and shut it off at the meter, and I winterized the house. for the first 8 months, there was zero change on the meter reading, but on month 9 it showed over 2000 gallons. I had a plumber friend go over to investigate, and he found that rain runoff had exposed a section of water pipe, and it froze and busted. Our water meter was bypassing its shutoff valve (a problem I was aware of from another repair). Once the pipe was repaired, and reburied, the usage returned to zero. It is a dang shame, that I have had to pay $29.05 a month for that meter to sit there.
There is different Teflon tape for gas and waterlines. Use hemp on the leaking fittings. The water swells the hemp and seals it. It will work very good. See Griffon products.