I went from stock 2.73 to 3.15... 8.12et1/8 mile, 2.0 60ft Then I swapped to 3.42 7.90et 1/8 mile, 1.8 60ft Swapped to to 3.73 7.69et 1/8 mile, 1.6 60ft (No other changes) Hope this helps a bit. P.S. thanks for all your helpful vids.
Thanks for watching the first C5 Facts Friday. Let me know if you change your gears and how you like/dislike the change. There's no enjoying the car with 16" of snow on the ground, so I gotta keep myself busy. I get the gear ratio question often, so figured I'd make a video about it.
I'd like to offer up a couple things here. First off, I've owned my 2000 A4 C5 convertible for almost 18 years. It came with the 3.15 option. I put a built LS7 in it, and was told it would be beneficial to go to a 3.42 gear for a few reasons. One reason was modulating the tire spin. With a built 427 engine, and the higher gear 3.15 (lower numerically), it would be harder to control the rear wheel spinning, as the 3.15 would spin the tires faster at any given speed. Another reason was I went to a 3,200rpm stall Yank converter. A 3.42 would make the looser converter feel 'tighter than the 3.15. The factory LS7 and LS6 both came standard with a 3.42 gear. Be advised; the earlier rear diffs (non 3 rib) were not as strong as the later ones. The larger difference in size between the ring gear and pinion gear in the diff, the easier it is for the diff to try and 'pry' itself apart from inside. The lower the gear ratio, the more mechanical advantage it will have on the tires, axles, and even on itself. Guaranteed if you run 4.11s or 4.56 gears in that diff, along with the 4L60Es 3.06 first gear, with sticky slicks or drag radials, you run the risk of spitting your diff all over the pavement. A 3.42 is as high as I would ever consider going with an A4. Best of luck to you all if you go with a lower gear than a 3.42. You're playing with dynamite!!!!!
@@codyl.7120 ran me about $1800 for everything and had the front pump seal done while in there because those will leak it's just a matter of when not if
Great info brother. I owned my 04 for a year without knowing it has 3.42s (I thought 3.15 based on rpo code). Obviously one of the previous owners put them in I assume when the a4 was rebuilt. Even the tune had 3.42 programmed in. It spins tires super easy so traction sucks but yeah 3.42 is pretty awesome with an a4. Even second gear is spooky and highway is fine. At 70-75 it’s at like 2200.
That's a nice surprise to find lol. Are you on stock wheels and tire sizes? Wondering if a wider tire would be the answer to that. That's good that 3.42s add a nice performance bump.
@@YellowVette04 yeah stock rims and tires for now (new Nitto’s) I just put 25mm spacers all around after watching your other video and love the new look (thanks!) But yeah definitely needs help with traction and it’s pretty much stock, just vararam, cat back, and Diablo tune. It’ll spin em all the way thru first no problem. Car would be way quicker if it hooked up.
Thanks for the info. My stock 2003 automatic has G90 / G92 - so that translates to 3.15 gears. That ratio seems like a good compromise between highway cruising and getting off the line.
@@YellowVette04 kicked my rpms up significantly. 6th gear on turnpike I wanna say I was at almost 3k rpm. Don’t hold me to that it’s been a while but yah it was alot
@@YellowVette04 in an MN6 especially if you have a high revving cam the change to 4.10 is a must have in my opinion. I've had two MN6 C5s with 4.10s. Best bang for the buck mod you can make. Constantly overlooked by so many. If you have a cammed MN6 that makes most power over 2800rpms up to 7000 rpms the 4.10s will change driveability drastically for the better. Lots of guys get over concerned with "street manners" of a cam. If you change the gearing in the rear to 4.10s in an MN6 you raise RPMs and the car will surge less. Making drivability much more pleasant and manageable without all the clutch and throttle manipulation. Yes, even with a great tune. The 4.10s make 5th a strong pulling gear as well as 6th. The 4.10s also eliminate the dreaded exhaust drone that everyone complains about. The MN6 car will drive at about 200 to 900 higher RPMs through all the gears. So it keeps the car out of the "drone zone" at cruising speed in 6th. There is a chart available online that breaks down the rpm matrix by gear set in a C5. The MN6 in an NA car does NOT "scream" by any means with 4.10s. The MN6 should have come stock with 4.10s in my opinion. Others will likely say 3.73 or 3.90. Definitely not the 3.42s. However, if you supercharge an MN6 the 3.42 is a great gear..
I’ve got the 3.42 obviously, with 315/50/17 Tires, it ended up being 3.15. Tires only can change the ratio of gears, and based on the way am racing 3.15 is the most usable and performs well.
I don’t have the c5 yet but as soon as I get it I will let you guys know in my future videos . I probably will change drive shaft and differential as well to get higher power and top speed
I just discovered my '98 Corvette has a 3.15 rear and THAT'S " Performance Axle Ratio option?! To me, that leaves me with a sluggish start from stop. My 2 Audi Q5s are lightning quick to my Vette...
Thank you for the shout out! I actually found this really interesting despite not entirely pertaining to me. Just put of curiosity, have you come across any forums that claim significant gas mileage differences? No one buys a Vette for the mileage, but I'm a total nerd like that. Lol.
I haven't, but I also didn't look. That sounds like something people would be interested in knowing. It'll impact it for sure, just don't know how much
@@YellowVette04 gas mileage drop in an MN6 with 4.10s can be somewhat significant in town driving and hard driving. That's likley because guys like me are in the go pedal more. In 6th gear cruising at highway speed the gas mileage change isn't much. The 3.42s cruise at 70mph at 1500 rpms. The 4.10s cruise at 1800.
Dave, if u add 3.90 gears that would put ur cam in power range waaaaay quicker! U wont look back. I went from 3.90s back to 3.42s only because im Supercharged now and no bueno for the 1/4
I've thought about it lol. I have an end goal in mind and it's similar to your setup, so I don't want to spend money twice on the same part if I can avoid it. I drive a bunch, so I'm always weary of changing something and hating it. We'll see what the future holds.
I find it super interesting that getting the best track time is all about the harmony of car parts. I feel like we often put stress on sticking the "go fast" parts on, but sometimes the right choice to a faster time is not what you'd think.
The Window sticker also list the gear. You can get the build sheet and window sticker from the National Corvette museum. My 2004 automatic has the 3.15 gear cost $395 on the option sheet
Dragstrip, you'll want to go with something like a 4.11 or 4.88 gears (if you're building a dedicated/predominantly Drag Car... if you search online, there's actually a company that makes a Straight Axle conversion Kit for the C5/C6 but it's pretty expensive... I'd personally never do that to mine and take away the IRS when a Corvette has some of the most amazing handling and can get even more dialed In if you invest in seriously upgraded components over factory.... I'm personally more in love with FIA/WEC LMGTE (now LMGT3) Racing which is what the Corvette was built to do so I've built mine along the parameters of the sinister C5.R GT1 LMGTE racecar but also added in what I feel Chevy should have released the car as had they offered an option above the ZO6 and made available a real C5.R supercar, only its a hybrid of an LMGTE C5.R that had a baby with a Formula Drift Corvette (and it can also destroy most down the drag strip, but it's not specifically built for that) I just feel making a C5/C6 a killer going only in a straight line is a sad waste when you can turn it into a Racing Swiss Army Knife and a formidable threat on a Circuit Track, Drift Course, and Drag Strip and to make it a versatile badass that can def hurt alot of feelings and egos at all 3 events, in that case I would stick to an upgraded Hardened 3.42 OR 3.73 Ring&Pinion... I do know that with the straight axle rear conversion kit they make, you can option that setup/kit out to be built for you with one of those Quick-Change Rear Ends so you can change out your ratio in minutes... if youre going to stay with your IFS/IRS setup and still focus on mainly drag (but this goes for any of the 3 i mentioned) i would def suggest not only upgrading your rear gears but the best way to put all that power and traction down, i would absolutely suggest going with the Pfadt Race Engineering Solid-Mount Trans Mount/Trans Brace over the rubber factory mount which is a joke in comparison as well as the Pfadt Front & Rear Racing Swaybars and the Pfadt Race Blocks (Solid Mount Pillow Block Mounts for those specific swaybars) and the ECS Trans Brace combined with the pfadt trans brace as they both work differently... those 4 mods in conjuntion with each other I promise will be your most noticeable and drastic performance upgrade to your Corvette thats not a power adder/engine mod and totally worth the $4,000 or so parts cost if youre serious about building a nastyyy Track Car... thats just my $0.02 but hey, "To each, his own" as they say right... good luck with your build!
Window sticker is the easiest way for sure. Just incase someone doesn't have it anymore, then these are the next easiest ways. Thanks for watching and sharing
Very informative video. Question. Can you recommend me to a good video on how to delete the VATS system on a 1999 c5 Corvette. Im getting a no start with the security light on. When I try and start my Vette. Very frustrating 😕
You can put bigger wheels on the rear with a smaller side wall to keep the overall diameter pretty close to stock and not impact gearing or active handling. I went from the stock 275/40R18 to 305/30R19, so overall diameter change is minimal. A taller overall tire will make your gearing taller and shorter tire will be shorter. There's a bunch of info on the forums to help select the right size wheels and tires to keep everything working good
I have 342 in my C5. Feels a little light on torque. My C3 had 373 gears with a 383 stroker and a 4 speed plenty of torque. C5 doesn’t feel that quick out of the hole but is faster up top. Not sure if it’s worth the time and money to change to 373 or something close to 373
With 2.73 you'll need a new case. The other gears are to big to fit into a 2.73 case. A 3.15 case can fit any gear. Thanks for watching and the question.
I'm considering buying a 2000 corvette convertible, automatic and the one I am looking at is a automatic, the RPO code is GU6 for the rear gear 3.42 . Is this a special order or what, I thought the lowest gear ratio was 3.15 for the automatic.
Only manuals came with GU6 (3.42). Check the VIN to make sure the sticker on the glove box matches the car. Unless the owner auto swapped a manual car which is very uncommon. All autos came from the factory with GU2 (2.73) or G90/G92 (3.15).
Thanks for helping. I know the rear cradle needs to come out, so it's not a quick job just didn't know how long for a shop to do so that has all the right tools and knows what their doing lol.
For all Corvette Owner. If you have a 6 speed, stay with the 3.42. Its perfect matched to the Top Speed of the Car. For all Auto Owners, best Thing is the 3.73. This Ratio matched perfect the Top Speed of the Car. If you put a 3.9 or a 4.1 into it, you loose Top Speed. If you have a longer Diff like 3.42 or 3.15 you lose Power/rpm, because the Car hits the Top Speed at 4900rpm.
Hellow bro , reallly good video , i want to.ask you, my car its a m6 C5 . but My manual 342 it doesn't work anymore, and a friend of mine, offers me a automatic 273, can you explain to me what would be the difference at driving time? I.really apreciare if hoy get me out of doubt Thank you 🙂
Don't do the 273, even if it's free lol. You won't like it and it'll be slow. It sucks that your diff is broke, but keep an eye out for a 3.42 gear or call around to junk yards that may have them.
If you're NA and don't plan on going with any kind of boost than I'm sure it's pretty fun. My buddy has 4.10s and he loves the gears. May get old if you're on the highway a lot as well.
@@YellowVette04 I will not boost it I don't think (although I want to). Because over here (Sweden) you can't get a significantly modified car through the yearly mandatory inspection.
@@YellowVette04 my corvette is a basic model whit a couple options i got f45 ride suspension and now i found that my gears,3,15 ,is not bad for a convertible. Tanks to you my friend here in california i drive top lees the whether is beatyfull .
My 630 rwhp n/a C6Z06 hates 6th gear, it just loafs along, btr4 cam doesn't help, but spins so bad all other gears, I hate to go deeper. My 450rwhp 6.0 swapped c5 FRC does better in 6th, is actually drivable, but it spins bad in first and second. I think a deeper gear and a drag radial would be good for the FRC.
I didn't read all the comments but the idea of putting your car in 4th (manual) or 3rd (auto) to determine you're axle ratio is completely false. You didn't account for the fact that tires change the ratio as well. The stock size tires rotate about 755 times per mile, multiply but 3.42 and you get roughly 2600 rpm at 60 in 4th 3.73@2800 4.11@3100 You can also multiply that by.5 and find your rpm at 60 in 6th, or .7 for 4th (auto). If someone wants a more complicated and longer explanation I can provide that as well.
I appreciate the explanation. I did mention 80mph and not 60mph, so based on the math you provided the RPMs would be about the same as the gear ratio. Thanks for commenting and watching.
@@YellowVette04 if you get the build sheet it does, which the vin will get you at a dealer. 3.42 rear in every manual vette? Yes….but the Z06 has MN12 version of this granny w/ completely different gear ratios, so that’s a lil misleadingly. 3.90s or 4.10s not bad w/ a mostly bolt on manual vette; but more power you make more useless the short gears are. My C5Z makes 718whp & ahhh….3.42s are not ideal lol, “best”’ gearing entirely dependent on what your goals/mod plans are & current power, & type of trans. 4 speed autos really blow w/ dead spots & slow shifts, I like these new 10 speeds tho, even tho not great to shift manually they chop the power up perfectly & you’re always in the right gear
You can go to the dealer or look at the RPO codes in the glove box like I said in the video. The Z06 gearing in the MN12 tranny is different, but the gears in the diff are the same in every 6 speed. You make a good point, the purpose of the car and goals play a big part in any build.
Those voice over edits are awful I can't even hear what you are saying, try saying it slowly or repeating twice. It's pretty bad, it's like switching from one type of background noise to a louder different background noise and the words said so fast that's it's unintelligible.
I went from stock 2.73 to 3.15...
8.12et1/8 mile, 2.0 60ft
Then I swapped to 3.42
7.90et 1/8 mile, 1.8 60ft
Swapped to to 3.73
7.69et 1/8 mile, 1.6 60ft
(No other changes)
Hope this helps a bit.
P.S. thanks for all your helpful vids.
Numbers don't lie. Thanks for sharing this. Hopefully this info will help someone
Much respect! That had to be alot of work! Greatly appreciate the data!! Thank you!
Are you auto?
@@408CIDZ Yes. N/A with mild cam & 3000 stall
@@DaveQRacing Nice!
Thanks for watching the first C5 Facts Friday. Let me know if you change your gears and how you like/dislike the change. There's no enjoying the car with 16" of snow on the ground, so I gotta keep myself busy. I get the gear ratio question often, so figured I'd make a video about it.
Hi, i ve blown my diff, its a 3.42 mm6, Can i change for a 3.15? I have some mods and a 3.42 seems a bit short ratio. Tks
I'd like to offer up a couple things here. First off, I've owned my 2000 A4 C5 convertible for almost 18 years. It came with the 3.15 option. I put a built LS7 in it, and was told it would be beneficial to go to a 3.42 gear for a few reasons. One reason was modulating the tire spin. With a built 427 engine, and the higher gear 3.15 (lower numerically), it would be harder to control the rear wheel spinning, as the 3.15 would spin the tires faster at any given speed. Another reason was I went to a 3,200rpm stall Yank converter. A 3.42 would make the looser converter feel 'tighter than the 3.15. The factory LS7 and LS6 both came standard with a 3.42 gear. Be advised; the earlier rear diffs (non 3 rib) were not as strong as the later ones. The larger difference in size between the ring gear and pinion gear in the diff, the easier it is for the diff to try and 'pry' itself apart from inside. The lower the gear ratio, the more mechanical advantage it will have on the tires, axles, and even on itself. Guaranteed if you run 4.11s or 4.56 gears in that diff, along with the 4L60Es 3.06 first gear, with sticky slicks or drag radials, you run the risk of spitting your diff all over the pavement. A 3.42 is as high as I would ever consider going with an A4. Best of luck to you all if you go with a lower gear than a 3.42. You're playing with dynamite!!!!!
I did 3:73s in mine and boy that woke it up!
What did you have before?
@@YellowVette04 I had the 3:15s, crazy improvement to 3:73s
@@redvette2466 that's great to know. Maybe this is in my future 🤔
@redvette2466 how much was the parts/labor?
@@codyl.7120 ran me about $1800 for everything and had the front pump seal done while in there because those will leak it's just a matter of when not if
Great info brother. I owned my 04 for a year without knowing it has 3.42s (I thought 3.15 based on rpo code). Obviously one of the previous owners put them in I assume when the a4 was rebuilt. Even the tune had 3.42 programmed in. It spins tires super easy so traction sucks but yeah 3.42 is pretty awesome with an a4. Even second gear is spooky and highway is fine. At 70-75 it’s at like 2200.
That's a nice surprise to find lol. Are you on stock wheels and tire sizes? Wondering if a wider tire would be the answer to that. That's good that 3.42s add a nice performance bump.
@@YellowVette04 yeah stock rims and tires for now (new Nitto’s) I just put 25mm spacers all around after watching your other video and love the new look (thanks!) But yeah definitely needs help with traction and it’s pretty much stock, just vararam, cat back, and Diablo tune. It’ll spin em all the way thru first no problem. Car would be way quicker if it hooked up.
Thanks for the info.
My stock 2003 automatic has G90 / G92 - so that translates to 3.15 gears. That ratio seems like a good compromise between highway cruising and getting off the line.
Agreed. It fits my driving needs perfect and probably good for most people. Thanks for watching and thanks for sharing your experience
I did 4.10’s in my c5 wow that was awesome
Besides the obvious kick in the pants, how was it when just driving normal and in the highway?
@@YellowVette04 kicked my rpms up significantly. 6th gear on turnpike I wanna say I was at almost 3k rpm. Don’t hold me to that it’s been a while but yah it was alot
Figured it would be screaming. Still pretty badass combo tho lol.
@@YellowVette04 in an MN6 especially if you have a high revving cam the change to 4.10 is a must have in my opinion. I've had two MN6 C5s with 4.10s. Best bang for the buck mod you can make. Constantly overlooked by so many.
If you have a cammed MN6 that makes most power over 2800rpms up to 7000 rpms the 4.10s will change driveability drastically for the better. Lots of guys get over concerned with "street manners" of a cam. If you change the gearing in the rear to 4.10s in an MN6 you raise RPMs and the car will surge less. Making drivability much more pleasant and manageable without all the clutch and throttle manipulation. Yes, even with a great tune.
The 4.10s make 5th a strong pulling gear as well as 6th. The 4.10s also eliminate the dreaded exhaust drone that everyone complains about. The MN6 car will drive at about 200 to 900 higher RPMs through all the gears. So it keeps the car out of the "drone zone" at cruising speed in 6th.
There is a chart available online that breaks down the rpm matrix by gear set in a C5. The MN6 in an NA car does NOT "scream" by any means with 4.10s. The MN6 should have come stock with 4.10s in my opinion. Others will likely say 3.73 or 3.90. Definitely not the 3.42s. However, if you supercharge an MN6 the 3.42 is a great gear..
@The Glamourous One 4.10s are a great gear. Around town drivability improves with this gear especially if you have a decent sized cam in the car.
I’ve got the 3.42 obviously, with 315/50/17 Tires, it ended up being 3.15. Tires only can change the ratio of gears, and based on the way am racing 3.15 is the most usable and performs well.
Thanks for sharing your experience and setup
Awesome video. I almost spit my food out when you said all Corvettes are Manual, video over.
Lol just having some fun since I always see negative comments towards auto owners.
I don’t have the c5 yet but as soon as I get it I will let you guys know in my future videos . I probably will change drive shaft and differential as well to get higher power and top speed
Good luck in your search man. You'll love the car and you'll get hooked on modding it lol.
Great video. Very informative. Thank you.
Thanks for the continued support 🤘
3.42’s FTW!!!
All around a great ratio for sure. You dam manual guys got it good.
I just discovered my '98 Corvette has a 3.15 rear and THAT'S " Performance Axle Ratio option?! To me, that leaves me with a sluggish start from stop. My 2 Audi Q5s are lightning quick to my Vette...
Your Audi is a lot newer and all wheel drive
You’ve got 4 gears bro. That is why.
Your channel has a very professional look ! Very good.
Thank you for the shout out! I actually found this really interesting despite not entirely pertaining to me. Just put of curiosity, have you come across any forums that claim significant gas mileage differences? No one buys a Vette for the mileage, but I'm a total nerd like that. Lol.
I haven't, but I also didn't look. That sounds like something people would be interested in knowing. It'll impact it for sure, just don't know how much
@@YellowVette04 gas mileage drop in an MN6 with 4.10s can be somewhat significant in town driving and hard driving. That's likley because guys like me are in the go pedal more. In 6th gear cruising at highway speed the gas mileage change isn't much.
The 3.42s cruise at 70mph at 1500 rpms. The 4.10s cruise at 1800.
Great vid once again buddy Dave hitting us with that knowledge
Lol more like being bored at work. Appreciate the support as always
Dave, if u add 3.90 gears that would put ur cam in power range waaaaay quicker! U wont look back. I went from 3.90s back to 3.42s only because im Supercharged now and no bueno for the 1/4
I've thought about it lol. I have an end goal in mind and it's similar to your setup, so I don't want to spend money twice on the same part if I can avoid it. I drive a bunch, so I'm always weary of changing something and hating it. We'll see what the future holds.
I find it super interesting that getting the best track time is all about the harmony of car parts. I feel like we often put stress on sticking the "go fast" parts on, but sometimes the right choice to a faster time is not what you'd think.
3.90s are great for a 6 speed manual. Not so much for an A4.....
You ain’t about that clutch life bro 😎
Idk why I wasn't wearing that shirt instead lol. Maybe the next vette will be manual... maybe
The Window sticker also list the gear. You can get the build sheet and window sticker from the National Corvette museum. My 2004 automatic has the 3.15 gear cost $395 on the option sheet
Woohoo! I'm a 40 percenter!
Being left behind... lol kidding
@@YellowVette04 maybe you should do the research and see how many base model Corvette's were the Commemorative Edition with a manual transmission. 😂🤣
@@ThatCorvetteGuy I know the last one made was an auto lol
I got 315. Good info
Much better gear IMO than the 2.73. Thanks for watching and commenting
Cool you gave me an idea for a video here
I'll take 40% of the ad revenue for that video lol
@@YellowVette04 🤣
Great stuff... Thanks...
Thanks for watching and the continued support 🙏
Been a subscriber, already clicked like.
Appreciate it man 🤘
What gears do y’all reccomend for big moderate power and light swinging or doing donuts? Like drifting let’s say but not extreme.
What would y'all say for an auto and supercharger? 3.15? 3.42? Trying to build for the dragstrip.
Dragstrip, you'll want to go with something like a 4.11 or 4.88 gears (if you're building a dedicated/predominantly Drag Car... if you search online, there's actually a company that makes a Straight Axle conversion Kit for the C5/C6 but it's pretty expensive... I'd personally never do that to mine and take away the IRS when a Corvette has some of the most amazing handling and can get even more dialed In if you invest in seriously upgraded components over factory.... I'm personally more in love with FIA/WEC LMGTE (now LMGT3) Racing which is what the Corvette was built to do so I've built mine along the parameters of the sinister C5.R GT1 LMGTE racecar but also added in what I feel Chevy should have released the car as had they offered an option above the ZO6 and made available a real C5.R supercar, only its a hybrid of an LMGTE C5.R that had a baby with a Formula Drift Corvette (and it can also destroy most down the drag strip, but it's not specifically built for that) I just feel making a C5/C6 a killer going only in a straight line is a sad waste when you can turn it into a Racing Swiss Army Knife and a formidable threat on a Circuit Track, Drift Course, and Drag Strip and to make it a versatile badass that can def hurt alot of feelings and egos at all 3 events, in that case I would stick to an upgraded Hardened 3.42 OR 3.73 Ring&Pinion... I do know that with the straight axle rear conversion kit they make, you can option that setup/kit out to be built for you with one of those Quick-Change Rear Ends so you can change out your ratio in minutes... if youre going to stay with your IFS/IRS setup and still focus on mainly drag (but this goes for any of the 3 i mentioned) i would def suggest not only upgrading your rear gears but the best way to put all that power and traction down, i would absolutely suggest going with the Pfadt Race Engineering Solid-Mount Trans Mount/Trans Brace over the rubber factory mount which is a joke in comparison as well as the Pfadt Front & Rear Racing Swaybars and the Pfadt Race Blocks (Solid Mount Pillow Block Mounts for those specific swaybars) and the ECS Trans Brace combined with the pfadt trans brace as they both work differently... those 4 mods in conjuntion with each other I promise will be your most noticeable and drastic performance upgrade to your Corvette thats not a power adder/engine mod and totally worth the $4,000 or so parts cost if youre serious about building a nastyyy Track Car...
thats just my $0.02 but hey, "To each, his own" as they say right... good luck with your build!
There is a 4th way. I have the original sticker which says performance gears. I watched your video to find our what those were.
Window sticker is the easiest way for sure. Just incase someone doesn't have it anymore, then these are the next easiest ways. Thanks for watching and sharing
Very informative video. Question. Can you recommend me to a good video on how to delete the VATS system on a 1999 c5 Corvette. Im getting a no start with the security light on. When I try and start my Vette. Very frustrating 😕
I do not. I haven't looked into that issue yet, but I'll take a look
@@YellowVette04. Ok. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Have you done anything to your trans as in coding options and if so what did you use if you don't have an HP tuner?
If I put bigger tires on the back from 18th and 19th there's a slow down the gear ratio?
You can put bigger wheels on the rear with a smaller side wall to keep the overall diameter pretty close to stock and not impact gearing or active handling. I went from the stock 275/40R18 to 305/30R19, so overall diameter change is minimal. A taller overall tire will make your gearing taller and shorter tire will be shorter. There's a bunch of info on the forums to help select the right size wheels and tires to keep everything working good
did you say 8, 18 or 80mph? both times your said it the sounds cuts.
80, sorry about that. Thanks for watching and commenting
All the GOOD Corvettes have manuals!! Okay, how about all Z06's & FRC's came with a manual!! That statement is true.
All fast C5s came with an auto... lol
Nice intro! 👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks man.
I went with 373 fun times!!!
That does sound like a great time. Thanks for watching and sharing your experience
I have 342 in my C5. Feels a little light on torque. My C3 had 373 gears with a 383 stroker and a 4 speed plenty of torque. C5 doesn’t feel that quick out of the hole but is faster up top. Not sure if it’s worth the time and money to change to 373 or something close to 373
It's worth it if you'll enjoy the car more. At least that's what I keep telling myself lol.
Que opinas de meterle un 4.10 a un c5 z06?
is it just as simple as buying the gears? I have a 2001 base with 2.73 gears, wondering if I need to buy a new case aswell
With 2.73 you'll need a new case. The other gears are to big to fit into a 2.73 case. A 3.15 case can fit any gear. Thanks for watching and the question.
@@YellowVette04 I am so glad I read this😢
Keep your stock gears for when you go boosted wich Iknow you will
You know me too well lol. I agree tho and I'm happy with the 3.15s I have now. We'll see how the future unfolds.
I have 6 speed manual so that was easy.
Yes, yes it was
I'm considering buying a 2000 corvette convertible, automatic and the one I am looking at is a automatic, the RPO code is GU6 for the rear gear 3.42 .
Is this a special order or what, I thought the lowest gear ratio was 3.15 for the automatic.
Only manuals came with GU6 (3.42). Check the VIN to make sure the sticker on the glove box matches the car. Unless the owner auto swapped a manual car which is very uncommon. All autos came from the factory with GU2 (2.73) or G90/G92 (3.15).
@@YellowVette04
Thanks for the info, I will be sure to check it out.
I was surprised to find that RPO code and was a bit confused.
Thanks again.
Question for Anyone who had their rear gear swapped? What was the approx labor cost at a decent shop?
It is a 7+ hour job. Most shops are charging $90/hr now so you can figure $700 just in the labor.
@@kellygrannis8024 good to know! Thank you
Thanks for helping. I know the rear cradle needs to come out, so it's not a quick job just didn't know how long for a shop to do so that has all the right tools and knows what their doing lol.
What is a gu6
3.42. All manuals had this code and ratio.
For all Corvette Owner.
If you have a 6 speed, stay with the 3.42. Its perfect matched to the Top Speed of the Car.
For all Auto Owners, best Thing is the 3.73. This Ratio matched perfect the Top Speed of the Car.
If you put a 3.9 or a 4.1 into it, you loose Top Speed.
If you have a longer Diff like 3.42 or 3.15 you lose Power/rpm, because the Car hits the Top Speed at 4900rpm.
Hellow bro , reallly good video , i want to.ask you, my car its a m6 C5 . but My manual 342 it doesn't work anymore, and a friend of mine, offers me a automatic 273, can you explain to me what would be the difference at driving time?
I.really apreciare if hoy get me out of doubt
Thank you 🙂
Don't do the 273, even if it's free lol. You won't like it and it'll be slow. It sucks that your diff is broke, but keep an eye out for a 3.42 gear or call around to junk yards that may have them.
Thanks a lot , i was just to buy it , thanks god i saw your video 😎🙏🏻
You could always get your current diff rebuilt if you can't find anything. Might be cheaper and it'll come with some type of warranty from the shop.
@@YellowVette04 and what about a 3.15 diff ? not recomended either for my M6?
How about the 4.10? Is that too extreme?
If you're NA and don't plan on going with any kind of boost than I'm sure it's pretty fun. My buddy has 4.10s and he loves the gears. May get old if you're on the highway a lot as well.
@@YellowVette04 I will not boost it I don't think (although I want to). Because over here (Sweden) you can't get a significantly modified car through the yearly mandatory inspection.
Are check mine Corvett and I got G90 G92 not bad ah tanks YV.
That's good. I was surprised to find out that almost 60% of autos were optioned with the 3.15 gear. I would have thought it was less than 50%.
@@YellowVette04 my corvette is a basic model whit a couple options i got f45 ride suspension and now i found that my gears,3,15 ,is not bad for a convertible. Tanks to you my friend here in california i drive top lees the whether is beatyfull .
My 630 rwhp n/a C6Z06 hates 6th gear, it just loafs along, btr4 cam doesn't help, but spins so bad all other gears, I hate to go deeper. My 450rwhp 6.0 swapped c5 FRC does better in 6th, is actually drivable, but it spins bad in first and second. I think a deeper gear and a drag radial would be good for the FRC.
That's a sweet garage buddy. I can see that big cam giving you fits when you're not pushing it, but I bet it sounds pretty dam good lol.
@@YellowVette04 Chops like crazy...QTP cutouts stuck open lol!
@@YellowVette04 I'm blessed, and work hard, I have a cam/header 01 Speedway White/Mod Red Z06 as well... The Unicorn car..
Check your email, sent some pics..
Sick dude. I even see a nice red project car in the back 🤘
I'm looking for a 3:42 rear if anyone has one for sale. Hit me up.
This is not a sales page sir... lol kidding. I'm sure they're out there. Good luck in your search.
@@YellowVette04 i thought I was on fleabay. Sorry wrong website 😅 Good vid Dave.
I've got a 3.15 in perfect shape. Removed with around 50,000 miles.
@@milojanis4901 Well, I'm holding out for a 3:42 but I do appreciate the heads up.
@@milojanis4901 What are you looking to get out of the rear?
My corvette c5 is auto but has the 3.15 gear 😅
Same here. Much better gearing for performance than 2.73. Thanks for watching and commenting
I think mines is a 2.73...I believe
Now you know how to confirm it 👍
If you got a z06 C5 put 3.90s if you have a base C5 drop 4.10s in they equal out to about the same ridiculousness
Haha thanks for the comment.
I didn't read all the comments but the idea of putting your car in 4th (manual) or 3rd (auto) to determine you're axle ratio is completely false. You didn't account for the fact that tires change the ratio as well.
The stock size tires rotate about 755 times per mile, multiply but 3.42 and you get roughly 2600 rpm at 60 in 4th
3.73@2800
4.11@3100
You can also multiply that by.5 and find your rpm at 60 in 6th, or .7 for 4th (auto).
If someone wants a more complicated and longer explanation I can provide that as well.
I appreciate the explanation. I did mention 80mph and not 60mph, so based on the math you provided the RPMs would be about the same as the gear ratio. Thanks for commenting and watching.
How to know what gears you have? The fucking vin guy, jesus
The VIN doesn't tell you what gears you have. The VIN only tells you make, model, engine type, year, plant and production number. Thanks for watching
@@YellowVette04 if you get the build sheet it does, which the vin will get you at a dealer. 3.42 rear in every manual vette? Yes….but the Z06 has MN12 version of this granny w/ completely different gear ratios, so that’s a lil misleadingly. 3.90s or 4.10s not bad w/ a mostly bolt on manual vette; but more power you make more useless the short gears are. My C5Z makes 718whp & ahhh….3.42s are not ideal lol, “best”’ gearing entirely dependent on what your goals/mod plans are & current power, & type of trans. 4 speed autos really blow w/ dead spots & slow shifts, I like these new 10 speeds tho, even tho not great to shift manually they chop the power up perfectly & you’re always in the right gear
You can go to the dealer or look at the RPO codes in the glove box like I said in the video. The Z06 gearing in the MN12 tranny is different, but the gears in the diff are the same in every 6 speed. You make a good point, the purpose of the car and goals play a big part in any build.
Those voice over edits are awful I can't even hear what you are saying, try saying it slowly or repeating twice. It's pretty bad, it's like switching from one type of background noise to a louder different background noise and the words said so fast that's it's unintelligible.
Appreciate the feedback