For anyone watching this for directions. Absolutely do not use Red thread locker. Use blue. Red is meant for something you want to be permanently in place. The vibrations you had, was nothing to do with the bolts being loose. That is just a known issue with the OEM brake pads leaving deposits on the rotor.
Yeah, those little screws are not even necessary. As soon as you tighten the lug nuts, that rotor isn't moving. The only reason some cars have those little screws is to keep the rotor in place while mounting the caliper.
Yeah red is overkill, if you're going to do it use blue. the screws aren't needed anyway. They aren't going anywhere while the wheel is on. Also, 1 click the torque wrench not 3-4 (not going to hurt anything in this instance but for future reference; probably don't HAVE to be torqued anyway).
I always put never seize on the alignment screws as the lug nuts hold the rotor in place. Red thread lock I guarantee you will be drilling them out next rotor replacement.
Yo that red Loctite is going to cause big problems in the future! Hopefully by not adding to much it will be okay. But Blue, or even orange is what you want in the future. Also get a soft toothbrush, and gently clean the dust around the piston seals. Nice job!
For everyone watching this don’t ever put any thread lock on any bolts holding the rotor. He has no idea what he is talking about. That has nothing to do with the vibration he was experiencing when hitting the brakes. If anything you want to hand tight those bolts and put a little anti seize. Those bolts tend to rust in and you have to drill out. The guy has the right intention in the video but has no idea/knowledge of what he is talking about about the vibrations.
HORRIBLE advise on putting thread locker on the screws that hold the rotors.... those screws have no function once the car leaves the assembly line. Your lug nuts fasten the wheel onto the wheel hub, which means that the rotor has nowhere to go while the wheels are on. If your wheels fall off, you have bigger problems than your rotor moving around... The biggest pain in the ass in changing rotors is when those stupid screws won't come out. I've had to drill em out more than once. DO NOT put thread locker on those screws, in fact the first time you ever do brake work on your car, take em out and throw em in the trash.
When ever I encounter a car that I've done the brakes on and I have the potential of seeing that car again for the next brake job I toss them screws in the trash. I don't want the headache.
@Stinger_gt21 The vibration is an issue with the factory break pad that all stinger owners have. I had mine changed with different break pad and everything is resolved.
@az native I got the power stop one for front and back. The only downside is that they are a bit smaller in size, so you will hear the noise when you change gear from R to D and hit the brake.
@RedEye perfect, thank you.. I've gone to the dealership 6 times, they recommended to upgrade, I did that and still the annoying shaking, wasted money on 2 sets of front rotors, 2 sets of brake pads to feel the same thing now they say to go back to OEM, 🙄🙄. Love my car and refuse to give it up. It's the limited edition Indigo Blue GT, AWD only 500 of them were made.
I got the same setup up on my 2020 gt, you’ll prolly need better pads for your mexico trips. The ceramic pads work good for day to day driving but after a few good hard brakes back to back you can feel them fade. Also you might feel/hear the pads move every time you go for park to drive to reverse.
@@scorpiojuan1966 I take back my comment, r1 is trash lol. I turned my original rotors( only had like 20k miles or less on them) and ebc redstuff pads. A million times better
@@austinr1007Don’t say that! Early this week I had ordered the R1 black drilled and slotted rotors with pads for my Stinger. I was at 45k miles and needed new pads in the front. Decided to try them out. Was your experience that it was all trash or just sucky pads?
@@xcorona7097 pads sucked. I got the ceramic ones. I’m sure the rotors were fine but my r1 rotors rusted on the hub so quick. The coating didn’t last long on the hub leading it to rust. But ebc reds with OEM rotors so far in my opinion is worlds better.
Agree, was going to post the same thing, Blue helps but can break loose and red is suppose to be for more permanent setting. gotta find a mechanic channel to show us this stuff.
Dumb Q but why aren't the floating pins that hold the spring clamp in place facing the opposite way? I get the aesthic of that pinhead but the flat part you hammer against would be way easier if was facing the other direction
Having the shaking issue with brand new R1 concepts drilled and slotted rotors. I wonder if my lock screws are loose. Plus I get soooo much brake dust with this setup. Going back to oem style rotors. 32k miles Thanks for the video bro
For anyone watching this for directions. Absolutely do not use Red thread locker. Use blue. Red is meant for something you want to be permanently in place. The vibrations you had, was nothing to do with the bolts being loose. That is just a known issue with the OEM brake pads leaving deposits on the rotor.
Yeah, those little screws are not even necessary. As soon as you tighten the lug nuts, that rotor isn't moving. The only reason some cars have those little screws is to keep the rotor in place while mounting the caliper.
Yeah red is overkill, if you're going to do it use blue. the screws aren't needed anyway. They aren't going anywhere while the wheel is on. Also, 1 click the torque wrench not 3-4 (not going to hurt anything in this instance but for future reference; probably don't HAVE to be torqued anyway).
What about the torque wrench to break the torque on the backside bolts. That’s a no go!
I always put never seize on the alignment screws as the lug nuts hold the rotor in place. Red thread lock I guarantee you will be drilling them out next rotor replacement.
Please don't use your torque wrench as a breaker bar
maybe he thinks its called a torque wrench cause it give you more torque😒
@@Nivlaceel78 😅
Yo that red Loctite is going to cause big problems in the future! Hopefully by not adding to much it will be okay. But Blue, or even orange is what you want in the future. Also get a soft toothbrush, and gently clean the dust around the piston seals. Nice job!
You do not need those screws on the rotors
For everyone watching this don’t ever put any thread lock on any bolts holding the rotor. He has no idea what he is talking about. That has nothing to do with the vibration he was experiencing when hitting the brakes. If anything you want to hand tight those bolts and put a little anti seize. Those bolts tend to rust in and you have to drill out. The guy has the right intention in the video but has no idea/knowledge of what he is talking about about the vibrations.
Great video 👍 watched it today before i did my own stingers rotors and pads. Was very helpful, thanks man!
Please where I can buy the brake pads from trying to get both front and rear brake pads for my 2020 stinger gt2
@@diggyallcrown8412 i live in canada. I was able to get front pads and rotors from part source for like 350 CAD.
HORRIBLE advise on putting thread locker on the screws that hold the rotors.... those screws have no function once the car leaves the assembly line. Your lug nuts fasten the wheel onto the wheel hub, which means that the rotor has nowhere to go while the wheels are on. If your wheels fall off, you have bigger problems than your rotor moving around... The biggest pain in the ass in changing rotors is when those stupid screws won't come out. I've had to drill em out more than once. DO NOT put thread locker on those screws, in fact the first time you ever do brake work on your car, take em out and throw em in the trash.
When ever I encounter a car that I've done the brakes on and I have the potential of seeing that car again for the next brake job I toss them screws in the trash. I don't want the headache.
Great work David, I hope my G80 has the same brakes so I can do them myself.
Red theadlocker on those screws is going to be a pain to remove later in the future.
I just hope they don’t fall off before cause my car was shaking like crazy everytime I hit the brakes
@Stinger_gt21 The vibration is an issue with the factory break pad that all stinger owners have. I had mine changed with different break pad and everything is resolved.
@RedEye what brake pads did you buy?
@az native I got the power stop one for front and back. The only downside is that they are a bit smaller in size, so you will hear the noise when you change gear from R to D and hit the brake.
@RedEye perfect, thank you.. I've gone to the dealership 6 times, they recommended to upgrade, I did that and still the annoying shaking, wasted money on 2 sets of front rotors, 2 sets of brake pads to feel the same thing now they say to go back to OEM, 🙄🙄. Love my car and refuse to give it up. It's the limited edition Indigo Blue GT, AWD only 500 of them were made.
I got the same setup up on my 2020 gt, you’ll prolly need better pads for your mexico trips. The ceramic pads work good for day to day driving but after a few good hard brakes back to back you can feel them fade. Also you might feel/hear the pads move every time you go for park to drive to reverse.
Whats the issue with that? Are the pads too small for the brembo brake caliper. I have that sort of clunk/pop sound when i go forward or reverse
Why not turn the original rotors?
@@scorpiojuan1966 I take back my comment, r1 is trash lol. I turned my original rotors( only had like 20k miles or less on them) and ebc redstuff pads. A million times better
@@austinr1007Don’t say that! Early this week I had ordered the R1 black drilled and slotted rotors with pads for my Stinger. I was at 45k miles and needed new pads in the front. Decided to try them out.
Was your experience that it was all trash or just sucky pads?
@@xcorona7097 pads sucked. I got the ceramic ones. I’m sure the rotors were fine but my r1 rotors rusted on the hub so quick. The coating didn’t last long on the hub leading it to rust. But ebc reds with OEM rotors so far in my opinion is worlds better.
Agree, was going to post the same thing, Blue helps but can break loose and red is suppose to be for more permanent setting. gotta find a mechanic channel to show us this stuff.
Only thing I would recommend is please dont use your torque wrench to break bolts loose
What kind of brake pads are those?
Dumb Q but why aren't the floating pins that hold the spring clamp in place facing the opposite way? I get the aesthic of that pinhead but the flat part you hammer against would be way easier if was facing the other direction
Do you have to torque the brake caliper to spec?
Please where can I get this brake pads from for my gt2 2020 stinger both front and rear can you please drop the link or website..Thanks!
Red loctite ?? Omg...
yo thanks for this. gonna be doing this soon
Thank you!!!
Having the shaking issue with brand new R1 concepts drilled and slotted rotors. I wonder if my lock screws are loose. Plus I get soooo much brake dust with this setup. Going back to oem style rotors. 32k miles
Thanks for the video bro
Did you change the pads as well or just the rotors?
Why not resurface the original rotors??
If the factory doesnt use thread lock, you don't use it. Lol, next brake job is gonna SUCK
Clueless! No thread locker please!
Lol those screws are only for assembly purposes...
Yeah I fucked up 🤣
@@stinger_gt219 it happens bro