Designing and 3D Printing Custom Wheels for Our Supercar! (Project Jigsaw Ep. 56)
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- #AutodeskPartner Project Jigsaw, our 1960’s inspired supercar needs wheels. So we partnered with Autodesk to bring our vision to life! You can find out more about Autodesk Fusion through this link: www.kqzyfj.com...
@autodesk @adskfusion #AutodeskFusion #MakeAnything #autodesk24
Merch: www.crucibleco...
Slogan for Tony's wheel design: "Let the Forge Be With You"
Hahahaha
So, steel the slogan from Kyle Rover?
This is the way...
Tony looks so cool when he is designing stuff #ihopetobelikehimoneday
I would love that rim with some concave
1000% agreed! I love the initial design but don't think it's finished, a little concave will make it POP! 👍
For real it seems so flat
Some draft on the spoked webbing too.
would've solved the lugnuts problem too
Found your channel, specifically this project 4 days ago. Been binge watching non stop. Absolutely love this! Sadly I’m all caught up now and have to wait for weekly updates 😭 guess I’ll binge watch the other projects now. 😄
Hello guys, great video! Thanks for sharing. For the tail lights, I have a suggestion: you could use the 3D-printed part to create a mold and then cast it in a harder material, or consider having it CNC-machined from a hardwood. Just an idea! Thanks again!
My thoughts too, but maybe use the mold for a fiberglass or carbon fiber taillight surround 🤔
In a basic home shop setup like this, I would just use plywood, it's good enough for a one-off stamping, especially on aluminum.
This channel should be at over 100k subscribers! Thanks for all the videos!
Great video as always. Look forward to each Saturdays installment.
I 3D print my dimple dies. I use petg and always print 100% infill. I mostly work in 1mm cold rolled steel and it gives me the flexibility to do odd shaped dimples. When I design my dies, I design a drill guide at the same time. That way I can drill accurately and also use the guide as a stencil to draw my layout for visual reference.
I feel like you could reduce the infill density by doing one or two extra perimeters and honeycomb infill in the pressing direction.
@@johndoe920 Yeah, extra perimeter is key. Bigger nozzle also help.
@@johndoe920 On aluminium you could get away with 5 to 6 perimeters and 70% infill, but cold rolled is a bit tough. I use a 16 ton press and have cracked several dies.
@@KermitGTT how thick we talking? but yeah you might be right. I honestly wouldn't even have thought to use 3d prints for steel to begin with :D
@@johndoe920 I mostly use 1mm and 1.2mm.
this wheel design is freaking awesome
Love the wheel design. Great you showed the entire process
I use 3D printing all the time at work, we mostly print out of ASA which requires high temperature and loves to warp and not stick to the build plate. Switching to an enclosed printer was a game changer, let it pre heat the chamber for a bit and it works like a charm every time!
"We haven't failed... we've just found a way that doesn't work"
tee right there!
Hey, next time you print a thing to be used to make a form... instead of trying to fill it up with plastic to make it strong, make it so you can fill it with concrete instead. Concrete is a way better compression material.
Yeah, my thought was that it would work better if it was solid.
and cheap!
Why don't you cut holes in the tail light aluminium sheet to give some room for the metal to deform into the mould when you compress it?
Schweet custom wheel! I was hoping to see the rear clamshell articulation this week… but gives me something to look forward to next week!
Thanks boys, I've been avidly following along. I'm blown away by your skill, creativity, and ingenuity.
I understand it's a modern take on a 60's look, but I don't care for the low-profile look of the tires. But, it will handle better with those.
quick tip on bed adhesion, wash your bed. it gets oils from your skin etc on it. just some hot soapy water, then dry it with paper towel, put it on the printer, heat it up for a while to dry it, then re-level the bed, it will be night and day different.
Was going to say this, it wasn’t a leveling issue it was a grubby plate
I really like the wheel design!
FYI: I run a large format 3d printer 1mx1mx.5m the bed is glass. the trick i use to help with adhesion is spray the bed with hairspray. Something like High hold aquanet. it works.
Awesome awesomeness
Jimmy Diresta used a CNC to carve a compression mold out of wood to make an impression of his last name in a tailgate insert. Might be worth looking into!
@13:37 it sounds just like t he Titan submersible.
Love the wheel mock up. 👍
More sidewall for that era.
I wasn’t sold on the wheel design at the start but the more it came along, the more it grew on me, and finally when it was all “fitted up” yea I like it, suits the car.. Cool idea about the different design for the rear too. My only 2 cents worth would be, a bit of a dish or concave on the face but I have no idea how easy or difficult that is. 😂 I’m quietly hoping at least the rear are dished. Great video as always, thank you.
We need smaler rims and more tire ❤
Freakin' awesome! You guys do amazing things! Not gonna lie, though, I did really like that 14 inch mag wheel that didn't clear the brakes
I was just wondering yesterday if you could reliably 3D print stamping dies. And here you are doing it!
Amazing project 🔥🔥🔥
The wheel looks like a mash up of a Fuchs wheel and a BMW M1 wheel. Fits the era you are aiming for really well! I’ve found that adding higher infill and a lot of skin layers makes the press dies work well. I print my dimple die sets at 100%
Pretty sure 3 pc wheels also allow more control over the creation of the individual pieces, meaning more precision and strength/weight compared to a 1 piece. Great looking wheels and I love this project!
Ryan, a carbuilder in NZ is doing a Series Three Supra with a V 12 from a Toyota limozine. Fuel injected, dual turboed, full up. All of his engine parts mods, and there were many, were done in 3D print, tested to fit then machined out of billet. As a result, he had very few redesign problems when he fit them up. "Pizza Supreme" is the YT channel, if you are interested.
For that press form I find that printing them solid helps ie, 100% infill. Also, cut out the circle in the middle of each opening to allow the metal to stretch more easily.
Again, you are demonstrating to younger enthusiasts that the skill of concept, design and trial and error are alive and well. Just sitting behind a computer is not the only rewarding career.
A tip for your 3d printer is to use VisionMiner Nano Polymer Adhesive for your bed. It is hands down the best, lasts for a long time and well worth the price. Love what you guys are doing, keep up the amazing work! You guys rock!
About the first layer adhesion on your 3d printer, one very important thing is to clean the bed surface before every print, oils from hands and other debris and dust reduce the fimalents ability to stick, so thats one tip from me
Now that’s a good looking wheel, almost looks like a Miura wheel design.
I remember seeing the Lamborghini mura with smaller front wheels,and the rear wheels seemed huge,but it looked amazing ,really aggressive .
I'm glad Tony was wearing safety glass while drawing...
Who’s the first person to say A New Hope was ‘77 ?
Was thinking the same thing . And the sad part is I know this because I went and saw it when it came out .
Love the renders of the wheels at 9:58 if you could match that for the final look, I think it would be awesome!
Awesome design of the wheels ❤. Regards from mallorca
Favorite build on youtube
The second I saw the beginning of the sketches I was thinking, "He's totally using the Millennium Falcon as inspiration." The channel Proper Printing actually printed a wheel for a car a year or two ago if you want to see what it takes.
Nice work
Class is in folks, take your seats and shut up.
Wheel looks right for the era, but if you are going to deep dish the rear "Lamborghini style," give the front some love too... but flat faced front and deep rear fits the era as well... yall keep rocking....
You can use paper glue for the bed in stick bar form, easy to apply and clean with water, increases adhesion to the bed a lot.
Tony hit it right in Juan's pockets
Pre drill the holes in the tail light location of the aluminum as it will reduce the stretch and will press a bunch better.
I would say the wheel design in the white plastic is an exact replica of a washing machine drum.
If you put a battery in Tony's wheel design and glue it to the ceiling it will sound an alarm when smoke is present.
*chirp! *
I'm loving the wheel design but wondering if just a little more dish would make it just perfect? For the rears, my personal opinion would be to go with the same basic design but, or course, with more dish again. Really enjoying the series, and the interaction between the two of you 👍
Cool wheels but I really think you should tweak that center to use blind bolt holes. The exposed bolts don't look 60s authentic. Doing this would increase the apparent diameter of the center as well, filling up that stepped rim more.
Those wheels remind me a lot of Chrysler’s 1969 recall slot mags
16:34 6% infill ist a litte on the low side. Try to increase the internal structure with jobben geometry around the forming areas👌🏻
Your wheel would probably look better with added draft angles on all those straight design features. Otherwise looks great. Keep up the progress.
Better be a hidden Easter egg on the wheels.
You can buy aftermarket auto bed leveling sensors that will read the bed before printing everytime, saves me alot of time.
If Tony was Darth and I was Luke I would be a very proud son, so as said before may the forge be with you ✌🏻🇬🇧
1:55 ish... my man designing plans for the death star here and saying its a rim lol
I just want to echo the learn CAD sentiment. I put it off for years, thinking there would be a ton of advanced maths involved. There isn't. With a grasp of a few fundamentals, you'll be designing real-world parts pretty quickly. (Personal preference, but I favour Onshape over Confusion 360 or SometimesWorks, but they'll all do.)
The back wheel would look cool with an extra slot where you have 3 to 4. Then where you have one slot one one recess have 2 of each. The sane but different. Think that would look cool.
Could you use the light mould to make a back section, connect to two together giving you something to bolt onto with the lights. Almost like a double skin effect
wheels are sweet. if you are going for different maybe do those on the rear and a turbofan wheel style in the front?
that wheel looks cool, almost makes me want to ask you what type of wheel should I put in my ford puma 1998 in 15"
5:41 I thought you had an Orange Storm Giga? and 12:12 increase bed temp, and use rubbing alcohol to clean the bed. I would say 60c or 65c depending on how cold the room is should make it stick really well
Ryan: Wonky on the inside, functional on the outside
They look great! Maybe have the design checked by an engineer to assure they can hold the weight?
I'm surprised you're not doing solid infill on the metal forming parts.
Is there a centre lock hub kit conversion for the boxter? i think the wheels look fantastic, but would definitely take it a step further with knock on or centre lock wheels, like the gt40 or Ferraris from the era
Another tip, dont use gyroid for your press parts. Either make is solid, or use triangle infill. Any infill with vertical walls. Ironically, gyroid is weak on every axis. The layer pattern is too disjoint to adhere to the previous layer. Gyroid is basically worst case scenario for 3d printers. Gyroid is like an endless, every axis, every layer,... overhang.
If they were 6 bolt wheels Tony could have done the imperial logo!
17:00 welding a 3 inch tube besides a 4 inch tube on a piece of ½ inch steel would be far better and much faster than this plastic form
The wheel looks a kind like Porsche Fuchs wheels. In Tony's head is a Boxer engine, the wheel looks like does of the 914.
10:28 - i dont agree. YOu guys are engineers, you are actually building the car! Not like the other 99% of the car content creators who just order parts from interwebs and bolt them on
it seems to me that the thinnest cross section between the inner part of the wheel (where the nuts are) and the outer part might be too thin. THere is a lot of material in the area where it might not be the most needed ?
I wanted a spoked wheel and centre spinner just like an MG. Would be much much better. Also would be like an old British race car classic.😢
You could have just used a plywood die for the tail light panel; faster and easier than printing one. It's a one-off stamping with low detail on aluminum, it should be good enough.
What 3d printer was the wheel model printed on? it seems large enough for full sized wheels of quite a large size...
Nvm... I rewatched at heard it mentioned around the 19:30 timestamp...
Glue stick on build plate for adhesion.
Just because they couldn't do it then doesn't mean you shouldn't now. I'd keep the center design the same but change the offset to get your desired position in the wheel well. You can give the part that attaches to the other part of the rim a larger diameter so it fits or change the outer rim flange to stretch toward the center bolt pattern.
Curious to see the end as a printer me too, but noooway that forming shape could whitstand the pressure unless you print it 100% infilled. Not even in GF reinforced, with the 20-25% you've set there on the first blue one.
I had a ton of trouble 3d printing ABS until I increased the bed temp used an enclosure to trap the heat. Problem solved!
Time for enclosures for your 3d printers. That'll greatly minimize that warping you saw.
Great effort and work gone into the wheel design ,” But IMO” not really doing much to highlight the car ..
Check retropower UK - the pro‘s 3d print the shapes and backfill them with resin and sand
Aynı kalıbı yeniden basıp kumda kalıp çıkarıp metal eritip kum kalıba dökün ve bunu press de kullanın ❤
The wheel face feels a little flat. The whole car is a series of complex curves, adding some dish would integrate the design a bit better, and also slim down the mounting face so you wont need to run xxxlong studs/lugs. I think adding 5 mil round fillets to some or all of the 90° intersections could look good too.
Lol I've pressed smaller brass sheet metal parts with solid PLA but nothing that big. The press might not even be up to the force of such a large surface area. You could probably print it vertically and hollow and fill with concrete maybe to avoid having to make it solid PLA.
There's no need to make a solid20 mm thick PLA base if the shape is just 6 mm deep though. Make the form thinner and rely on metal plates to stabilize the flat shape.
why not vent the tail lights like the front lights of the Lamborghini Miura? You could 3d print them.
I was going to comment “What’s wrong with Ryan? Is he sad?” Then I realized my son changed the video speed to 0.75! When I changed it back I said “There! Ryan is hyper again” 🤣🤣🤣
@@royalprince10 hahahah!
That wheel is soooo cool!
A couple of thoughts on your "print and press"; others have increased the printability by leaving the center of the printing between the front and back walls open enough to pour concrete of other solid fillers into the void. Additionally, drilling a hole about a third the size of he finished hole in the part will help the stretch within that zone. Using as soft an aluminum as you can blend with the rest of the body will be essential to your process. Btw, adding some alignment holes outside the area containing your metal to be stamped will also help. Love the process from "tube body to sheathed"- you may have seen the next big thing for custom metal shapers indeed, Ryan, Tony! Onward! The car isn't half done and the customer is coming next week to pick it up!
🤡🤡🤡🤡
For me the wheel needs a bit more concave and softer edges still looks too modern at the moment but hey it’s your wheel 👍
A little bit of concave on that front wheel centre and a lot of concave on the rear, same design. Don't do a completely different design front to rear. Triple staggered though, diameter, width and offset.
Wheels are made up of Tires (the rubber) and Rims (the metal). That is a rim not a wheel.
Thats for basic wheels, for 3-piece rims, there's the 3 pieces of metal (The face, The barrel, and The lip) that make the Rim then there's 1 piece of rubber. all of that combine would make the wheel.
At least that is how I was taught.
The wheel is way too big. But we all knew that was coming. No way you'd get a 60s style wheel over modern Porsche brakes.
Can’t you 3d print the moulds to use to create reverse mould in clay etc to then fill with a metal and actually create proper press dies?
Cool wheel. Not a bazillion miles away from a Fuchs?