Tips for Spray Painting
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Tips on how to get better results when using spray cans to paint scale model kits, and also some safety advice.
Special thanks to David from 'Simple Models' for helping me with the advice in this video, check out his awesome channel: / @staticmodel
VIDEOS:
Useful Tools: • Useful Tools for Scale...
Paint Types: • Types of Paint Explained
Brush Painting: • How to Brush Paint Sca...
Chalk Washes: • Making Chalk Washes fo...
Applying Decals: • How to Apply Decals to...
25 Tips: • 25 Tips for Scale Mode...
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MUSIC:
'Third Time' - Jingle Punks
With the help and teaching of David from ‘Simple Models’, I’ve re-edited this video on spray painting to show a more responsible, well-informed, safer and much more effective technique. I’d like to apologise as the old version of this video was thrown together quickly and it was very irresponsible of me not to do thorough research. Thank you to the people who pointed this out in the comments. I hope everyone finds this version more educational and enjoyable! 😊
Great little video, Owen.
Cheers,
Steve
Quick Kits..Very helpful Sir thank you very much. Are you able to pre shade with a pencil before applying the spray paint?
I used some humbrol gloss varnish and it did not dry gloss. what am I doing wrong?
Quick Kits Hi Owen. I have just recently used humbrol matte cote on my revell Lancaster and there was a weird white frost all over the model, ruining it. I was wondering off you knew why this happened. Any answer would be great. Thanks.
Diggerman Tigermutt using any topcoat (gloss or matte) in cold, wet weather can cause it to fog up. I'm wrestling with this myself as winter closes in. I can't topcoat in my basement (no spray bay) and it's going to get cold and damp here pretty soon.
Interesting tips.
For spray cans, I knew that you had to shake it up, but I never thought about putting it in warm water.
I suppose that makes sense sort of like how with the canned air duster, if you warm it up, it'll be usable again quicker or else it'll shoot out that freezing chemical thing.
One thing I like
About Tamiya and Mr hobby spray primers is that they dont need to be held upside down and sprayed to not clog. Holding it upside down will make some aersol gas leave the spray and eventually you will have paint left witch you cannot use. If you you use a spraycan that need to be held upside down best thing is to buy a can of propane blow the needle clean with some nail polish remover on the front of the needle and inside it just use a brush to apply it and after spray it clean.
I found out back in the 1970's to heat the can in warm water, mainly because the house I lived in was ALWAYS cold. I found warm paint flows thinner and better than cold paint. I usually never had to do two coats of rattle can paint without losing detail. A good primer is always a good idea, then wet sand the primer to get a smoother finish, dependingvon the model. I always primed my cars, then wet sanded the primer. Let dry a few days, then paint. If you want a professional job, use automotive paint. Nowdays its almost impossible to get enamel car paint.
Regardless of what it says on the can, you should give it much more time than what is on the label. What they're most likely saying is dry not and not really cure time. If you want to give paint enough time to cure and bond to the plastic, you'll need a few hours to a full day at room temperature to full dry and fully cure.
It's definitely a good idea to spray in a well ventilated area since you don't want to breath in those fumes and chemicals into your lungs and potentially get cancer from it. The mask thing is also a good precaution as well.
But ideally you should like those air purifer machines as well as spraying in a spray booth with the ventilation fan that blows it outside (if you're spraying indoors).
I liked the tips of spraying the can upside down then cleaning it with acetone. The problem I've always had was even when the can was only half empty it would start to sputter, then resulting in what big car painters refer to as "orange peel". I always hated that. Not knowing what to do, I'd just discard the can with paint still left in it!
Back in those days when I was a teenager, we didnt' have computers and RUclips tutorials and just didn't know what do to. 😉 Thanks for posting!
Instead of spraying it upside to prevent it from clogging, I think it's better to just dip a cotton bud (q-tip) in rubbing alcohol or acetone to clean it. That way you don't waste the paint on top of potentially spraying it on something or somewhere you probably shouldn't be.
You dont actually waste any paint
Enjoyed the detail of your content clear and concise information in a short but very well done video thank you.
Bought a Motip RAL 5017 blue spray can from a good online store recently, but sadly it seems to be an all or nothing affair, if you press lightly, you get nothing, nothing, nothing, then you press it harder and harder, then suddenly, boom, everything comes flying out at once, i know that light coats are the best way to spray paint, but whit this can it was impossible, and i have a pair of ruined rear view mirrors for a plastic scale truck model ( EMEK ) to fix up.
On some can light coats work great, no problems at all, but some cans are a all or nothing affair sadly, guess many of you recognize that as well.
When I started building models, I would always spray paint them. I eventually got an airbrush and compressor.
I prefer applying varnish with a brush because it doesn't smell as bad and I'm terrible at using a spray can
can you make a tutorial on diorama for model kits
Great video - very informative as per all your build/ model tips vids. Keep up the great work!
Nice and simple
To the point
Good tips I have noted them down
You picked a really convenient model to hang like that. The Migs engines go straight through
Hey.
Would you make a video about how to use warnish and what kind of technics should we use when covering the modells?
If possible please explain the diference betveen diferent kind of warnishes like gloss or matt.
Thank you and have a good time with modelling!
Gloss: shiny and smooth
Matt: opaque but a bit rough
It's simple. Gloss varnish is applied when you want a smooth surface to which apply decals and washes (they are better used on a smooth surface, the decals adhere better and the washes flow is more easily controlled), after that you can use the matt varnish to not make your model looks like a candy.
Thank you
Can i use spray can varnish os shall i use air brush or brush?
Air brush is the best option.
Spray can are also good, but remember some of them contain agents that may ruin decals (for exaple the Tamiya one), so you can't spray a coat directly over decals using spray cans.
If you don't have an airbrush, protect the decals applying thin layers of varnishes by brush (but only on decals) then spray over it with a spray can.
Ok, thank you for your advice!
Yet again, another great video Owen! I've been a bit neck deep into my games lately, I play a game called War Thunder on PS4, don't know if you've heard of it or not but whatever, anyways long story short I've been flying as the Japanese quite a bit and I've grown rather fond of the A6M Zero (Specifically the A6M2) and I believe airfix has an A6M kit available, would love to see you do that.
John Butler YASS
War thunder
And ahh the majestic a6m
Excellent Video, I have a quick question?
Can this spray paint be used on Diecast metal?
Thanks in advance.
Can you spray outside in cold weather, like around 0 degrees to maybe 10 degrees? If so what would be your advice in achieving optimal results this way?
Thank you for the tip on spray paint just a quick one how warm does the water have to be just as a example?
Dude, thanks a lot for the tip about the water and clear cotes.
I did some weathering on a couple of 1/87 containers, and it left a white resedue.
Could that also be a reason that Humbrol Clear can frost up?
what are the steps?
1)put primer
2)?
3?
Late af but:
1:primer
2:let it dry
3: another coat of primer if not enough
4: let it dry again
5: paint it whatever
I prefer to use my spray cans for uses like the underside of cars or the wheels
Great Vid'.
What's the recommended alternative to spraying in a box though?.
(had been considering thr method, as a way around having a fairly small study)
Very good video!
Hi there! I have a question. ¿What causes the formation of bubbles at the bottom of spray cans? It's a deformation of the concave base of the spray can that look like buubles growing from the inside of the can. Have you seen this before? It has happened a couple of times but only with primer and matte coat cans, NEVER with the normal paint ones. Someone told me it has something to do with the altitude of my city, you know, pressure physics and all that jazz. It happened again today with the last spray can of flat coat I got. I used it like four or five times and it already had signs of a bubble forming. The last time I didn't considered the weather so I got a bit of "frosting" effect on my piece, so once I fixed it I sprayed it once again, this time following your advice (shaking, warm water, shaking) and under more friendly weather conditions. And now it has this HUGE bubble at the base with three more bubbles around. So I was wondering if you have a solution for this, so I can prevent this to happen again. Perhaps I'm shaking to much or something. The idea that the spray can can explode while I'm shaking it or just while being there on my table terrifies me. Thank you very much for your time!
I just made a mark I male tank from the airfix wwi battle of somme cenetary 1:72 kit
I have primer spary and dark yellow spary for a tamiya tiger 1 late tank. I be sparying outdoors
Any advice
Since I don't have any good ventilation inside, i have to paint outside, if i use a box to stop wind from affecting my spray, would poking holes in the box help to reduce swirling fumes?
Can you use regular spray paint on plastic models? (Italeri Mirage III)
Can I use the same technique for car spray paint?
Thanks alot!
You're welcome!
Can you do some 1/35 tanks and figures?
Could this also apply to paper modeling?
I think outside is a well ventilated area so I’ll spray it outside
Nice, neat and to the point...good video thank you.
Do I need to use primer first?
that technique is also valid for spray primer Tamya?
Hi guys, I want to spray paint a model but it says to mix 80% revell 52 and 20% revell 91, any idea how I can do this using spray cans? Thanks!
Why is my spray paint feels rough after drying? I sand my model down before painting and after applying primer. Did i do something wrong?
I've read the answer somewhere else but I personally haven't tried it. The model builders that go steps further than me suggest 4000 grit , that's four thousand
Can I send you some kits to build I have two zvezda model kits from Russia one is a 1/35 T-90 the other is TU-154M 1/144 scale
I am interested in the T-90.
can you do an mg acguy build or mg zaku build ?
Don't warm nitrocellulose based paints (Car Spray Paints) or you'll end up with a minor 'silly string' effect.
Didn't know you could warm Matt/Satin/Gloss-Cote though...
i messed up my painting cuz i used masking tape to cover a different colour that i sprayed onto the model earlier and it pulled of the paint and now it looks terrible. how do i fix this?
Did you fix this? If not, go to a store such as Wilko (I'm in the UK) and find something called 'Fine Line masking tape'. This will provide a much more even line compared to the artist masking tape which is rough. Also, wait a while before taking the masking tape off. Half an hour maybe? If hand painting also, make sure you paint away from the edge of the masking tape. This makes sure there aren't any splodges of paint which can get under the tape. Hope this helps
Do I have to apply the matt cote to the model IMMEDIATELY after warming or can I let it set (for a few days?)?
You need to apply the spray before the can cools down, otherwise there's no point in warming it up. Warming it up gives the particles more energy so they apply more evenly. You can always warm the can up again on another day if you need to do another coat
Quick Kits ok thanks!
This might be useful in the 1960s but spray cans are alot different now. Just shake and spray now.
do you like gundam?
cheers from Costa Rica
hey
Any tips on road grime I'm building a Revell scania in memory of my father. I want it to look road grime and weathered. Brilliant tip thank you. Subbed check me out.
You know what is an airbrush and what you can do with him?, if you try one, you will see...
Esping Not everyone has money to afford one.
Actually airbrush is awsome when you meet it and u can paint really easily
My 12 year old son Junior was using some of this Duco Cement to put together a model airplane when he passed smooth out at the kitchen table. His head hit the table so hard it left a knot big enough to tie a horse to. Had to run him up to the emergency room they kept him up in the hospital for 3 days. There is something in that damn glue that made him pass out. Does anybody know who to contact with this company? Because i'm out about 900 dollars to the hospital, not to mention the kitchen table that got destroyed when Junior hit his head on it. It really pisses me off that they could sell a glue that could be that toxic, and make a kid pass out. I'm wanting some money out of this deal. Who should I talk to about it?
@Paul Simonson Thanks, but this was awhile back he's ok now. Lesson Learned