COMPLETE Tie Rod Replacement: How To Jeep Wrangler YJ
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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- Here I show how to replace all the tie rods and drag link ends on this 1992 Jeep Wrangler YJ
R inner Tie Rod: amzn.to/2Vim0J7
Pitman Arm Tie Rod: amzn.to/2JVpsEi
L outer Tie Rod: amzn.to/3edEbsf
R outer Tie Rod: amzn.to/2XrACJ2
Anti-seize: amzn.to/2VwPxiz
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Some of the links provided are affiliate links, where I earn a very very very small commission for directing you to the website. If you make a purchase, it does not increase your cost, but helps me fund my channel. Thanks for watching JeepSolid. I am not a certified mechanic, just a hobbyist who enjoys working on Jeeps.
I just bought a 94 YJ with 124,000 miles your videos are great and definitely will come in handy in the future!
Excellent video.
I seriously appreciate your postings.
(94 YJ with 105,000 that requires constant TLC!)
Dale, awesome video. Now I feel confident about doing this on my 89 YJ. Also, thanks for the ball joint video. Bro, you’re saving me money and making me better at working on my Jeep.
Wow bro, thanks for all your help in getting through this project... Seriously saved me a $1000... Beginning to end, you nailed it!
is the driver side of the TIE ROD, LEFT HAND THREADS? You said the Pitman Arm TIE ROD is left hand, but in your video it sure appeared the TIE ROD for the driver's side is ALSO left hand?
Your video helped me a great deal. I probably would have struggled if it weren't for your video. With your instructions it was a breeze. Thank you very much. God bless you my friend.
Just started watching your vids since I purchased a '93 YJ 2.5L last week. This video has been my favorite so far. I'm going to be spending a lot of time watching you since my new project has an extreme amount of opportunities for improvements. One of the first things though is getting my engine running correctly....i have very little history on this jeep. The motor starts easily, runs pretty good with decent throttle response....for the first 10 minutes. As it warms up. it starts missing, pops occasionally, drops off a couple cylinders it feels like and loses power. The warmer it gets, the worse it runs. After it cools completely, it's the same process again. Runs fine until warm, then starts running progressively worse until I limp back home at 2000 rpm max. I have replaced spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, and the throttle position sensor. None of these made any difference so far. I do know that it either doesn't have a thermostat, or it is stuck open. Coolant circulates as soon as you start it up cold. OBD1 shows a 17 code (engine running too cool). Don't know if this is affecting anything. I have on order a new thermostat, a new crank position sensor and a new coil. I have sprayed a good bit of carb cleaner down the throttle body. I have not done anything to the injectors yet since it runs really well when cold.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated as it has been many, many years since I wrenched on an older vehicle but I am retired now so this keeps me out of the house. Looking forward to all your great youtube videos!!!!
Good job Dale. Always enjoy your videos.
Thanks Gordon! It's fun tinkering in the shop.
When I replaced mine I bought everything new so when I took off the old all I had to do was just match it up. Made it so easy on me and only took me about an hour and a half. When I had my alignment checked I was spot on. Found out my gearbox was going out. Replaced that and death wobble was all gone. Rides smooth now.
Nice! I'm hoping all this work improves the way PJ drives.
I love all of your videos, they're a life saver! Although I bought through your affiliate links and they sent me the wrong part for the R inner Tie rod arm :(
Thank you so much! Your video made this seamless for me!
Just did all of this plus the track bar on my ZJ. Took 1 day to tear down and 1 day to reinstall. Ruined the threads on my steering damper despite taking precautions. Took careful measurements too, but still had to do a poor-mans alignment afterwards, as I had quite a bit of toe-out after I was finished. Still, it was fun, and pretty easy. Thanks for the video!
It's a nice feeling to have fresh parts on there. Did you replace the whole damer or just buy a new stud?
JeepSolid I couldn’t find a stud separately so I just used a bolt.
These days a poor man's alignment is good enough on most older Jeeps... always better than worn old parts, that even a professional alignment wouldn't be able to fix
Can’t find ball joint adapter that is offset like the one you had , I might have to make one
Question for you Dale. The link shows its does not work for a 90 YJ. Do you recommend one that will fit? Thanks and thanks for your vids. Very helpful!
I do not have enough clearance to remove the tie rod assembly..My springs will not allow it to drop down far enough. What do I need to disassemble which would be easiest? Maybe need an inch.
Dale, these videos are the best man. Super helpful and appreciated. Thank you! I'm going to be replacing my tie rod, drag link, and steering damper soon. But my steering wheel is off-center and the alignment may need to be dialed in, too. That's where I started...I was trying to adjust my drag link to re-center the wheel and it was frozen stuck, then I also noticed everything else should be replaced while I'm at it. Do you have a video(s) that covers how to do your alignment and re-center the wheel? Thank you sir!
Great video thank you
hey, great video.. you know where I can find the "right outer tie rod piece" the link is unavailable in amazon..
Subbed you, thank you for making these videos. I have a Cj and these help
When I replaced mine, the right side tie rod end squished way down so that the cotter pin hole was higher than the castle nut once it reached 55FTlbs, how to I correct that?
Would it be the exact same parts/part #'s for a 1991 YJ?
Those amazon part numbers do not fit an87 YJ jeep. Is this jeep you are working on a 92 YJ. Are the part numbers different for some reason or is Amazon getting it wrong? Love your videos. Big money savers.
I love your channel and am subscribed. I need help. I have a CJ5 and trying to get the tie rod off. Just got the ends loose with a pickle fork but the rod doesn't drop far enough down to get the ends out of the knuckle. The tie rod hits the leaf springs. Is there an easy fix for this or will I have to take everything apart just to get the tie rod out?
Can you send a link for replacing steering stabilizer bolt? I stripped yhreads when I hit the castle nut to break loose. Still struggling to get nut off now but bolt needs replaced now and I can't find it. Part number? Link please?
my stock yj with no sway or track bars pulls to the right. it did also with sway and track on. new ball joints old tie rods. any ideas?
Do you need to put loctite on the valve cover gaskets bolts
nope
I’m not sure if you’ve done a video about this already but could you talk a bit about how you prioritize what to fix? I bought a YJ a while back that needs work in multiple areas(Frame rust, exhaust leak, possible rear main seal leak) but I’m not sure where to start. Cheapest first?
Good question! I guess I would start with safety and essential things first. Safety as in if it breaks it could be dangerous: Things like brakes, u joints, hubs, maybe shocks (shocks can affect a vehicles braking ability). Things that are just annoying, like exhaust, I would do later. Of the things you listed, I'd start with rear main seal.
JeepSolid okay awesome! Thanks!!!! Keep doing your thing man, your vids help a lot!!
Four washers with ridges came in my tie rod/drag link kit. I seen it on the old one in your video but i did not see you replace them. What are they for?
No one knows...
An easier way to pull cotter pins is use a dike grab tmfrom the rounded side pinch and rotate the dice like a hammer pulling a nail then get a new bit and repeat til out. Then you don't have to try and hit a pliers in a tight spot
You did me a great help
Thanks alot
Thank you Sir! Great information just did my front end! 🙏🏼😃92YJ
Dude, I know this isn't that video, but I just noticed that the entire drive train under my Jeep Cherokee is coated with gear oil. I just had this friggen seal changed as well as the damn transfer case and the seal is STILL leaking. Is there a new yoke assembly I can buy? I think the one on this transfer case is ovaled out. I don't want to just keep filling the case back up. That would be stupid.
Great Video, I just towed my 94 ranch yj home yesterday to do the front-end. I replaced the manual gear box last year now to do the rest of the front end. How do think the quality of the parts you used?
Dunno if you guys gives a shit but if you're bored like me atm then you can watch all of the latest series on InstaFlixxer. Have been streaming with my gf during the lockdown :)
@Leland Mark yup, been using instaflixxer for since december myself :D
What should I do when a bolt snaps after replacing a valve cover gasket
extract the snapped bolt and get a new one
Rough country has those steering dampeners for $30 great product
Yeah. It's on my list. So much to do. LOL
Another great video!
How long did it take? I am wondering if it's a morning or weekend project.
Thanks!
It takes me a ton longer because I am filming it. LOL. But on average I would say 2-3 hour job depending if you run into any issues.. 👍
I need help with how to adjust the steering box.
Adjust how? Steering wheel position? Or box replacement?
JeepSolid box replacement
Workshop manuals are so yeterday compared to this, thanks
I’m sorry, I don’t see the list of parts you used.
There are links to the products in the description of the video 👍🏽
Didn't show how you removed the upper end of the drag link. I'm stuck🥲