All straight forwards if you can weld - Britparts do good repair sections very affordably. You will need to put on your electrician hat for the loom as it has to be cut to fit the repair section - mark wires... Thank me later. Fit all the body bolts before welding anything - those set the alignment, so those in first, then weld the chassis sections. Chances are the towbar braces won't fit the Britparts brackets - those are generally 10mm out as the Britpart jig is off on that front - drill new holes. No idea how Britpart got that wrong as its pretty simple.. but they did..
Great video guys, thank you. Followed your instructions and did mine in a few weekends (on my own). I don't have a plasma, but a 1mm cutting disk on an angle grinder did an equally good job. Keep the videos coming!
"This is the new chassis" *points camera at a push bike*. I was seriously thinking you were going to cut the bike up and use that until I looked behind it lol =P
Great video. Nice to see someone else who's done a similar job to the one I'm doing now on my Discovery TD5. And you live out in the countryside as well ! :D
Great work, I've just bought a td5 which will need a crossmember fitted in the future, it's been a while since I welded but am tempted to have ago myself it looks quite straight forward. How did you weld across the top as it looked quite close to the underside of the buck? 👍
+Darren Lobb In the process of taking the body off then will pull the trans and box and axles and see what its like. I know the rear crossmember is totally gone and needs a patch on the front N/S so far.. Its at a friends and outside so weather dependant which is unfortunate...
What did you do to prevent rust forming between the overlapped cross member ends? I know it's welded all round on the outside, but I'm sure moisture is going to sit inside those laminations. Do you do internal waxing or oiling?
This job has been done on the 300tdi I recently bought, and rust has formed in between so I'm fixing it by cutting bad laminations and replacing with one piece of fresh metal, so one continuous piece of metal, and no plates over rusty bits. Also doing the same where plated in places, because as you say moisture traps and causes accelerated rust promotion. It's crept just beyond the plated bits because of this. Rusty metal needs completely cut out and replaced with new metal, which can then be protected internally, I believe. But that's the difference between a hasty MOT weld and Restoration which takes much more time to do and lasts much longer IMHO
Great tools! Really digging the Snap On impact wrench and the Plasma cutter! Great video, I’m about to do the same to my 89, 90.
All straight forwards if you can weld - Britparts do good repair sections very affordably. You will need to put on your electrician hat for the loom as it has to be cut to fit the repair section - mark wires... Thank me later. Fit all the body bolts before welding anything - those set the alignment, so those in first, then weld the chassis sections.
Chances are the towbar braces won't fit the Britparts brackets - those are generally 10mm out as the Britpart jig is off on that front - drill new holes. No idea how Britpart got that wrong as its pretty simple.. but they did..
I did one years ago, found it easier to take the tub off but fair play it looks ok
Great video guys, thank you. Followed your instructions and did mine in a few weekends (on my own). I don't have a plasma, but a 1mm cutting disk on an angle grinder did an equally good job. Keep the videos coming!
Thanks for watching, and nothing wrong with using a grinder, exactly how I would have done the job previous to having my plasma cutter!
G'day. Just letting you know you young blokes are alright.
"This is the new chassis" *points camera at a push bike*. I was seriously thinking you were going to cut the bike up and use that until I looked behind it lol =P
Great work. How much roughly would this job cost labour wise.
Maybe you should wash and paint the rest of the chassis to prevent this happening anywhere else.
Good job, nice bit of welding.
+fergie35X Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching :)
Great video. Nice to see someone else who's done a similar job to the one I'm doing now on my Discovery TD5.
And you live out in the countryside as well ! :D
Great work, I've just bought a td5 which will need a crossmember fitted in the future, it's been a while since I welded but am tempted to have ago myself it looks quite straight forward. How did you weld across the top as it looked quite close to the underside of the buck? 👍
seam sealer on the welds goes a long way to prevent water ingress through the weld
Well you made that look easy....
I've got a Series III to do and reckon its going to be a bit ripe!
+St al Time for a complete chassis maybe?? ;)
+Darren Lobb
In the process of taking the body off then will pull the trans and box and axles and see what its like. I know the rear crossmember is totally gone and needs a patch on the front N/S so far.. Its at a friends and outside so weather dependant which is unfortunate...
What did you do to prevent rust forming between the overlapped cross member ends? I know it's welded all round on the outside, but I'm sure moisture is going to sit inside those laminations. Do you do internal waxing or oiling?
This job has been done on the 300tdi I recently bought, and rust has formed in between so I'm fixing it by cutting bad laminations and replacing with one piece of fresh metal, so one continuous piece of metal, and no plates over rusty bits.
Also doing the same where plated in places, because as you say moisture traps and causes accelerated rust promotion. It's crept just beyond the plated bits because of this.
Rusty metal needs completely cut out and replaced with new metal, which can then be protected internally, I believe.
But that's the difference between a hasty MOT weld and Restoration which takes much more time to do and lasts much longer IMHO
Can you do more field car ragging? I love them!
can the a part of the lateral chassis be replaced ( its death only at one side )aswell as the back one
when does the ragging start?
How did you weld the top part as surely you cant get the torch between the chassis and rear tub ?
Stick welder , its awkward but you can get in there fairly well, hardest part is actually cleaning the surfaces up than welding it!
rusted apart :D :D nice work guys ! (y)
Where did ya buy the rear cross member ?
Get back to the derv bus and keep up the good work 👍🏻
+dave burton In good time! Thanks for watching :)
no cushions between chassis and body?
Tis a landy!!
Is that a britpart crossmember ?😯
Hi Darren just out of curiosity what's her mileage?
about 104k, 1995 age
+Darren Lobb cheers fella 👍
Me encanta
what year is she
1995
lanrover