Thanks for this nice bit of info. I bought a cox .049 surestart with the diesel conversion already installed. It recommends to use nitro fuel with a nitro head for break in, I’ve got about half this bottle of Brodak I’m gonna finish running through it. Then put the diesel head back on and make my own fuel. This is the only clear step by step instructions I have found thank you truly 🙏
Brian, if you look carefully at the fine print on the John Deere can, it does list what the other 20% is: propane & butane & ethanol & chlorethane & toulene. The propellant in the can is CO2.
Thanks for this info Brian. Years ago I bought a Davis Diesel conversion kit for my Super Tigre 40 with a gallon of fuel and all the rest of the stuff necessary for it. I packed it all away and never used it. Now that I'm closing in on retirement .......... Not sure the fuel I have is still good or not, but I may give it a shot. I was sorely disappointed to find Davis is no more, but now you have unlocked the fuel mystery for me. Thanks!
If your fuel doesn't want to work, you can probably add some fresh ether and it will be fine. The castor oil and the kerosene don't evaporate but the ether will. So additn some ether back in should make it work.
Don't forget model diesels vibrate more than glows due to higher compression and your mount is rather flexible. Nevertheless the engine has a lovely note and is happy,slightly on the rich side maybe. You can go to 30 percent castor and with ballrace engines 25 is fine. Team race boys go below 10 percent lube I believe!
Good job Brian. Next time you are mixing yourself some fuel try 40 30 30 kerosene ether castor. Just as easy to remember. The power comes from the kerosene, and 30% ether and oil is plenty. Plus kerosene is cheaper.
@@kuehn1953 To really get "into the weeds" there is a top article at Adrians Model Aero Engines. I can't put in a link but the name is 'Fuels for variable-compression diesels' and I find it by searching for 'adrians model engines diesel fuel'. 40 30 30 is a simple improvement on "equal parts" but Adrian really gets into the optimisation. Where I live we can't easily buy ether but we have someone who is licensed and he sells us premixed diesel fuel with ignition improvers and all.
@@RichardTapp1 I've also used 40/30/30 to good effect, and replaced the castor oil with regular 20w50 as it cleans off easier IMO. The kerosene can be replaced with regular automotive diesel oil, and some sources say that the lube content can be reduced a few percentage points when this is done. I can't say I've noticed any difference. I had learned that diesel engines can be run (but won't start) with 0 ether content. Without ether, the compression needs to be increased but it runs just as well. 20w50 needs to be used because castor oil won't mix with kerosene without the ether. I partially filled the tank with regular fuel, enough to start the engine, and once it was warmed up and happy, I'd top off the tank with the etherless and retune. Ether was expensive, especially on a schoolboy's allowance.
Years ago I bought liquid starter fluid in can with a SCREW OFF CAP from the GMC truck parts department. Worked fine for me.
Thanks for this nice bit of info. I bought a cox .049 surestart with the diesel conversion already installed. It recommends to use nitro fuel with a nitro head for break in, I’ve got about half this bottle of Brodak I’m gonna finish running through it. Then put the diesel head back on and make my own fuel. This is the only clear step by step instructions I have found thank you truly 🙏
Brian, if you look carefully at the fine print on the John Deere can, it does list what the other 20% is: propane & butane & ethanol & chlorethane & toulene. The propellant in the can is CO2.
Thanks for this info Brian. Years ago I bought a Davis Diesel conversion kit for my Super Tigre 40 with a gallon of fuel and all the rest of the stuff necessary for it. I packed it all away and never used it. Now that I'm closing in on retirement ..........
Not sure the fuel I have is still good or not, but I may give it a shot. I was sorely disappointed to find Davis is no more, but now you have unlocked the fuel mystery for me. Thanks!
If your fuel doesn't want to work, you can probably add some fresh ether and it will be fine. The castor oil and the kerosene don't evaporate but the ether will. So additn some ether back in should make it work.
Don't forget model diesels vibrate more than glows due to higher compression and your mount is rather flexible.
Nevertheless the engine has a lovely note and is happy,slightly on the rich side maybe.
You can go to 30 percent castor and with ballrace engines 25 is fine.
Team race boys go below 10 percent lube I believe!
Good job Brian. Next time you are mixing yourself some fuel try 40 30 30 kerosene ether castor. Just as easy to remember. The power comes from the kerosene, and 30% ether and oil is plenty. Plus kerosene is cheaper.
Thanks for the recommendation Richard!
@@kuehn1953 To really get "into the weeds" there is a top article at Adrians Model Aero Engines. I can't put in a link but the name is 'Fuels for variable-compression diesels' and I find it by searching for 'adrians model engines diesel fuel'. 40 30 30 is a simple improvement on "equal parts" but Adrian really gets into the optimisation. Where I live we can't easily buy ether but we have someone who is licensed and he sells us premixed diesel fuel with ignition improvers and all.
@@RichardTapp1 I've also used 40/30/30 to good effect, and replaced the castor oil with regular 20w50 as it cleans off easier IMO. The kerosene can be replaced with regular automotive diesel oil, and some sources say that the lube content can be reduced a few percentage points when this is done. I can't say I've noticed any difference.
I had learned that diesel engines can be run (but won't start) with 0 ether content. Without ether, the compression needs to be increased but it runs just as well. 20w50 needs to be used because castor oil won't mix with kerosene without the ether. I partially filled the tank with regular fuel, enough to start the engine, and once it was warmed up and happy, I'd top off the tank with the etherless and retune. Ether was expensive, especially on a schoolboy's allowance.
I remember all my engines running counterclockwise (control line) ....
Stirred, not shaken. Did you take that from 007?
Nagyon darabosan jár.
Kicsivel több üzemanyag kéne neki, és akkor még lehetne alacsonyabb fordulatot beállítani.
Mate what are you doing it does not look like you know.
Why can't you buy ether from a chemist? I bought 500 ml last week.
You must be in the UK or Europe. In the USA ordinary citizens can't buy ether. Starting fluid is the only option
@kuehn1953 That's a bummer. I'm in Cape Town South Africa. Have a great day. 👍