Kent, that alcohol is used for making extracts such as used in baking and cooking. You would steep vanilla, or lemon peels or lavender flowers in it, for example, then you would add in small amount to baked goods, desserts, etc. I like to make an extraction of chilies to use in soups and sauces.
Thank you for taking the confusion out of "which finish to use?". I watched this twice, taking notes the second time. Great information, Kent and you have a knack for making it all understandable.
Thanks for the videos. They're a little long, and you don't change the video much, so it feels super slow, so thank you for creating the timeline areas, so I can skip to the important parts.
It's manufacturers don't give you all the info u need so that you go back to them when u hv issues with their products. Just like some woodworkers want you to join to get some insights into their model of craftsmanship. 🎉 thanks for the info.
My two favorite bowl finishes are walnut oil (either Mahoney's or Doctor's Woodshop brands) and Deft Clear Wood Finish, which is an oil-based, brushing lacquer. Both are easy apply on the lathe. I like to wet-sand with walnut oil as the lubricant. By the time I've worked through the grits, the piece has been both sanded and finished. Walnut oil, like boiled linseed oil, leaves a nice, soft, 'natural' looking finish. Walnut oil is a naturally hardening oil, like tung oil and linseed oil. Walnut oils sold as wood finishes are heat treated to help the oil harden more quickly. I apply Deft brushing lacquer liberally brush, wait a few seconds, and then wipe off the excess with a paper towel. It dries to the touch quickly and you can put on another coat in 15 minutes. I generally apply three coats, depending on the look I'm going for. I also cut Deft 50/50 with lacquer thinner and use it as a sanding sealer. It works very well and dries almost immediately.
Very informative video- thank you. I have used all of these finishes. The biggest lesson I learned is to pick a couple products, and stick to them. 6 months or a year after finishing something, I can’t remember what I used. Not usually a big deal, but a wax finish will dull/dry out over time, and may need to be re-coated.
Good video, Kent. KISS is often the best way to do many things. Rather than mention the various finishes I have tried and/or use - I will simply say that the one thing you mentioned I have never tried and probably never will use, is the "can of worms"
Hey Kent, I greatly enjoyed this video. Thank you for this information…you know that I am interested in this aspect of wood turning. I will be making use of this in my shop shortly.
If you need a way to protect some softwood or require a high gloss try epoxy resin and it doesn't get the "widow ring" and if you want you can make a very thick layer, over 2". I made a table put of a very old cedar tree, it was sentimental to my mother in law, and I had to coat it (1/2"l in resin so it wouldn't fall apart and now it will last for decades.
Hey Kent, love your videos. I've been using tried and true original on my bowls. I follow the directions closely. I've noticed that after using the bowls one or two times and washing that the grain raises slightly, leaving the bowl feeling rough. Have you experienced this? And suggestions for how to avoid or fix it? Thanks!!
Great video. I personally use shellac as a tool and waterlux gloss as a finish. I'm still new so I plan on trying Danish oil also. I'm recovering from bariatric surgery right now so your videos are keeping me entertained.
I sometimes have an issue where I grab a bowl I did 2 years ago, want to touch up the finish, but can't remember which finish I used. Any trick for that? If I put lin-oil on the first time is it OK to put the lin-wax mix or visa versa?
@Kent thanks I have been looking for a boiled linseed oil and bees wax finish for ages. I've been basically using Tung Oil for the finishes on mine. I just got started back into turning again too a break for a good bit but now getting back into it. Also getting back into re learning how to use traditional tools as well gonna be a nightmare but I will manage. I did find the Tried and True on amazon so I will be picking some up when I can. Thanks.
Simple is good in my book. You introduced me to the tried and true products and I use all 3. The third product is linseed oil and pine resin. It applies much like the pure linseed oil but dries a bit harder. You mentioned pecan. Have you noticed that pecan has a distinct pore structure. If you ever want the pores to pop, mix a slurry of linseed oil or tung with rotten stone. Apply with the lathe running. The pores will fill in with the subtle color of the rotten stone and cure that way with a nice luster. Thanks for the good instruction.
Thanks a lot for this ! Making your own shellac does not cost much. In Belgium, you buy the flakes for less than a certain on-line sell website, and you can buy denatured alcohol in drugstores (actually, what we call "pharmacies", that sell only medications). I think this leads to an easy conclusion : come live in Belgium... 😇
Kent, Excellent review/presentation of finishes. Obviously, you have put in a great deal of time researching and becoming knowledgeable regarding this subject. Lac Bug "GUNK" ? I had to laugh at that 😅, but you're actually spot on. I had always wondered why my dad, who loved making furniture and cabinets, loved using shellack for many things over varnish. Sure, he used other finishes, but he loved shellack. He had a great family friend who owned a hardware store and mentored him in many things like this. I am happy to thank you for mentoring us on what finishes work well for woodturners. Blessings - Lowell
Hi Kent. Great video. A question for you. I turn a lot of Spalted wood so the idea of using shellac to harden the fibres makes a lot of sense. I typically use a penetrating oil or oil wax finish like Tried and True or Odie’s. My question is, would the shellac prevent the oil finish from penetrating the wood?
Well done Kent. This is all great, no nonsense information, I wish I would have seen this years ago before I started on my lengthy "finishing" journey. You've condensed what took me years to figure out in a 30m concise video. Thank you for your expertise, as usual! Use shellac as a tool. Use lacquer for shiny show pieces. Use Tried and True for food safe. Keep it simple.
I honestly did not know that the Kleen Strip brand of (Denatured alcohol) had oils in them that don’t dissipate after drying. I’ve made shellac for a while now. I guess I’ll be rethinking my methods. Thanks Kent
Perhaps you are referring to Real Milk Paint Co. " Half & Half"? I like that as well, especially on oak. On Cherry, I use their "Wood Wax" (walnut oil and carnuba wax) only as it keeps it from getting ever darker as years go by.
I’m in Crete Greece where I can only get olive wood. I use shellac and denatured alcohol (meths) or beeswax mixed with a little olive oil. I cannot buy all the pre manufactured product. These both give a great finish. Shellac is also used to coat Smarties ( M&M’s)
I use "Minwax wipe on Poly" for fruit bowls but make my own friction polish for Trinket boxes. Denatured alcohol is difficult to find in Canada but I have had great success using 99% Isopropyl, boiled linseed oil and shellac flakes in equal weights for the friction polish. Usually takes 48 hours to completely dissolve the flakes. Apply both with folded paper towel but very thin on the Wipe on poly. Tried the mineral oil but it dries out pretty quick
Sometimes I just use a sanding sealer (which is a form of shellac) and sand very lightly between coats and then finish with a couple of applications of a good wax. It creates a hard finish that can be burnished to a warm finish and is easily brought back to a nice finish by just some rubbing.
Very informative! Which finish would you recommended for something thats excessively handled like a turned handle on a kitchen utensil. Would the tried and true be durable enough could you put shellac on top pf that for more protection?
Thanks for another great video Kent! I do have a question regarding you using shellac and then apply lacquer. Watco lacquer containers state not to apply the lacquer over shellac? Have you ever had any problems doing this and does the finish last?
Kent.... Love the very helpful video. I'm also using Tried & True Original with good results. BUT - the flat work folks who have run comparisons seem to strongly prefer Odies, Osmo, or Rubio Monocoat. I'm wondering why none of the RUclips woodturners have tried any of these other hard wax oils? Thanks.
Curious what your recommendation would be for projects that are meant for outdoor use. I use an oil based marine polyurethane. Is there a better option? Thanks
I need advice on the end stages of finishing a bowl (including the application of a finish). I've turned and sanded the outside and inside of the bowl to a high grit sandpaper, then I start the process of turning off the tenon leaving a small nub so that I can re-sand and blend the rest of the bowl outside surface. Should I apply a finish before removing the small tenon nub? Or is it possible to apply the finish off the lathe? Do you have any videos or advice here? Please advise. Thanks, MikeB P.S. Love your videos!
Mike, It depends. Sometimes I apply the finish on the lathe if I'm using Tried and True original. because I can return the next day and use the lathe rotation to burnish the finish with 0000 steel wool. I'll then finish the foot separate. You can also completely finish turning the bowl and sand the foot then apply finish. Which ever way works for the bowl you're making. All the best to you and Happy Turning! Kent
Paul, yes and if you dig further, the Lac beetle/bug is not even their name. Lac means a number, I think thousands. They are called "Lac" because thousands swarm trees at a time. At least that's what I read.
Is there eny way you would have an old sharponing jig i am a disabled vet and cant aford a new one if you do please let me know how much i live in 0rigon
Thanks Kent, as always very informative. As a very lazy chap my guaranteed method is 1. Cellulose/Shellac sanding sealer. 2. Yorkshire grit. 3. Microcrystalline wax. Great finish every time.
Kent, there are two types of shellac and different colours that I can purchase in Australia, waxed and de-waxed. Have you used any of these and/or which would you recommend?
Would you recommend shellac and lacquer for the interior of a sugar bowl or leave it unfinished? I'm thinking Tried/True linseed/beeswax would hold on to the sugar.
Kent, this was excellent. After 15y of turning, reading and experimenting with finishes I now understand more about the different finishes, and some of my failures. I have been particularly puzzled by lacquers. My go to finish is still specific brands of Danish Oil, unless colouring my wood. What do you think of Sunflower Oil? Many thanks. Bernard.
Kent - as always - great information + excellent presentation. Have you ever used the Beall buffing system? What do you think of using the finest buffing (white diamond) on the tried and true finish to get the burnishing effect instead of hand work with 0000 steel wool?
I have learned so much from your videos! I watched this one twice, and I still have a question. I'm looking for the best product or products to use when I want a shiny film finish that is also food safe, that does not require constant re-application. An example would be for a salad bowl that I actually plan to use for salad. So far the finishes I have used (Tried and True Original, Odies Oil, and Milk Paint Wood Wax,) all seem to soak in and not really create a film. "Milk Paint Soft Was Clear" seems to provide a thin film if I use a sanding sealer underneath it, but I want something more durable. I also purchased some Polycrylic (a Minwax product), that is similar to water based poly, but it is not marketed as food safe. I realize the rule of thumb that most products are actually food safe after they are "fully cured", but some products need up to 3 months to fully cure, and I don't want to guess how long I would need to wait. If you can offer a suggestion for a good food safe film finish, I would really appreciate it. Thanks, Kent!
Good question TMR. I do not know of a shiny film finish that is good for daily use. The shine will dull when microscopic scratches occur. Also, film finish can flake off with heavy use, making them not food safe. I think a medium luster with a oil/wax finish is about the best compromise, unless someone else has a better idea. Happy Turning!
Can I correct you on something? I just scanned the comments for the word "Boil". Boiled linseed oil is not actually boiled. Metallic catalysts are added to promote the drying of it in air. I think they boiled linseed oil to get the catalysts to dissolve maybe a hundred years ago or more. Sorry to interrupt.
Alex, you are correct. That is the current modern method. Tried and True brand does the old school method of truly boiling the product and adds no metals, etc. That's why I use it.
My father had enjoyed woodshop classes in school, and had learned that shellac and motor oil made a good finish for wood turnings. Pour it on a rag and rub it in, letting the rag get smoking hot if possible. So when I first dabbled in turning, that’s what I used. Sixty-odd years later, those early projects still have a great finish. We didn’t worry much about food safety, but Dad lived to 96, so it couldn’t have been all that noxious. Motor oil has changed over the years, but I might just give the modern stuff a shot and see how it turns out.
Ferg, Give it a try. Remember, the alcohol is just a "carrier" for the dissolved shellac. If it dissolves and evaporates, then it should be fine. Happy Turning! Kent
I saw a violin maker thinning his varnish with alcohol. I assumed it must be shellac but he yelled at me that it wasn't and not to confuse the audience. He said it wasn't shellac, but how can you thin varnish with something that contains water (which alcohol does)? It's the wild west out there.
Oh yes, Alex. "Wild West" is the best way of describing it. See, many people don't want to share info unfortunately. Sigh. Whatever. There's a good chance it was a special cocktail and I'd bet willing to bet shellac was a major ingredient. ;) Happy Turning!
@@TurnAWoodBowl Look at this:(taken from Chat GPT OpenAI) The formulation of water-miscible linseed oil, such as Winsor & Newton's Artisan linseed oil, typically involves the use of emulsifiers or surfactants to facilitate the mixing of oil with water. Emulsifiers are molecules that have both hydrophilic (water-attracting) and lipophilic (oil-attracting) properties, allowing them to stabilize emulsions of oil and water. Several types of emulsifiers could potentially be used in the formulation of water-miscible linseed oil: 1. **Lecithin**: Lecithin is a naturally occurring emulsifier found in egg yolks, soybeans, and other sources. It is commonly used in food and cosmetic products as an emulsifying agent. In art materials, lecithin may be used to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions and improve the compatibility of linseed oil with water. 2. **Polyethylene glycol (PEG)**: Polyethylene glycol is a synthetic polymer that is widely used as an emulsifier and surfactant in various applications. It can help to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions by reducing the surface tension between oil and water molecules. 3. **Sorbitan esters (e.g., Span series)**: Sorbitan esters are a class of nonionic surfactants derived from sorbitol and fatty acids. They are commonly used as emulsifiers in food, pharmaceuticals, and personal care products. In art materials, sorbitan esters may be used to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions and improve the flow and spread of water-miscible oils. 4. **Ethoxylated fatty alcohols or acids**: Ethoxylated fatty alcohols or acids are synthetic surfactants produced by reacting fatty alcohols or acids with ethylene oxide. They are commonly used as emulsifiers and solubilizers in various applications, including paints, coatings, and personal care products. In water-miscible linseed oil formulations, ethoxylated fatty alcohols or acids may help to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions and improve the dispersibility of the oil in water. These are just a few examples of emulsifiers that could potentially be used in the formulation of water-miscible linseed oil. The specific emulsifiers and formulation techniques used by manufacturers may vary depending on factors such as desired properties, compatibility with other additives, and regulatory considerations.
Why did you not talk about food safe products on our bowl?? Also I was told LaGuardia has a dangerous chemical in at and I should not use it?? Thanks for your help! Gerry
I love watching your videos and have learned a lot! But Dang… you fell to the popping your face in and out. Why? It’s so annoying to, and hard on the eye to watch! Please stop that popping in and out!
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you, Kent. My understanding is that shellac, like lacquer, melts into the previous layer.
That makes sense, as the solvent will most likely dissolve into the previous layer. Happy Turning!
Very well done! Thorough explanations like this really make for wonderful work, happy people, and natural beauty.
Thank you kindly, Ellwood. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Kent, that alcohol is used for making extracts such as used in baking and cooking. You would steep vanilla, or lemon peels or lavender flowers in it, for example, then you would add in small amount to baked goods, desserts, etc. I like to make an extraction of chilies to use in soups and sauces.
Great info!
Thank you, Ken. Happy Turning!
Thank you for taking the confusion out of "which finish to use?". I watched this twice, taking notes the second time. Great information, Kent and you have a knack for making it all understandable.
Thanks for the videos. They're a little long, and you don't change the video much, so it feels super slow, so thank you for creating the timeline areas, so I can skip to the important parts.
I am in awe at your service of information
Thank you kindly, Janet! Happy Turning!
It's manufacturers don't give you all the info u need so that you go back to them when u hv issues with their products. Just like some woodworkers want you to join to get some insights into their model of craftsmanship. 🎉 thanks for the info.
My two favorite bowl finishes are walnut oil (either Mahoney's or Doctor's Woodshop brands) and Deft Clear Wood Finish, which is an oil-based, brushing lacquer. Both are easy apply on the lathe.
I like to wet-sand with walnut oil as the lubricant. By the time I've worked through the grits, the piece has been both sanded and finished. Walnut oil, like boiled linseed oil, leaves a nice, soft, 'natural' looking finish. Walnut oil is a naturally hardening oil, like tung oil and linseed oil. Walnut oils sold as wood finishes are heat treated to help the oil harden more quickly.
I apply Deft brushing lacquer liberally brush, wait a few seconds, and then wipe off the excess with a paper towel. It dries to the touch quickly and you can put on another coat in 15 minutes. I generally apply three coats, depending on the look I'm going for. I also cut Deft 50/50 with lacquer thinner and use it as a sanding sealer. It works very well and dries almost immediately.
Excellent, Thank you, DK. Happy Turning!
Hey Kent that turned out great. I always enjoy watching and waiting for your next project again Outstanding job Brother
Very informative video- thank you. I have used all of these finishes. The biggest lesson I learned is to pick a couple products, and stick to them. 6 months or a year after finishing something, I can’t remember what I used. Not usually a big deal, but a wax finish will dull/dry out over time, and may need to be re-coated.
Good video, Kent. KISS is often the best way to do many things. Rather than mention the various finishes I have tried and/or use - I will simply say that the one thing you mentioned I have never tried and probably never will use, is the "can of worms"
great video- If you want to finish the bowl with an oil, would you use shellac as a sanding sealer first??
thanks
Hey Kent, I greatly enjoyed this video. Thank you for this information…you know that I am interested in this aspect of wood turning. I will be making use of this in my shop shortly.
Thank you, Roy. I'm glad you saw this. Much more info than I can explain at the dinner table. ;)
Thank you for your clarity Kent. There is so much that I now understand about finishes.
You. Are. A. Brave. Brave. Man!!!
LOL! *smiling* Happy Turning!
If you need a way to protect some softwood or require a high gloss try epoxy resin and it doesn't get the "widow ring" and if you want you can make a very thick layer, over 2". I made a table put of a very old cedar tree, it was sentimental to my mother in law, and I had to coat it (1/2"l in resin so it wouldn't fall apart and now it will last for decades.
Hey Kent, love your videos. I've been using tried and true original on my bowls. I follow the directions closely. I've noticed that after using the bowls one or two times and washing that the grain raises slightly, leaving the bowl feeling rough. Have you experienced this? And suggestions for how to avoid or fix it? Thanks!!
Great video. I personally use shellac as a tool and waterlux gloss as a finish. I'm still new so I plan on trying Danish oil also. I'm recovering from bariatric surgery right now so your videos are keeping me entertained.
Thank you, Greg! Glad to be entertaining. ;) Happy (near future) Turning!
Very well explained. Thanks, Kent
Glad it was helpful, Tracy! Happy Turning!
I sometimes have an issue where I grab a bowl I did 2 years ago, want to touch up the finish, but can't remember which finish I used.
Any trick for that?
If I put lin-oil on the first time is it OK to put the lin-wax mix or visa versa?
@Kent thanks I have been looking for a boiled linseed oil and bees wax finish for ages. I've been basically using Tung Oil for the finishes on mine. I just got started back into turning again too a break for a good bit but now getting back into it. Also getting back into re learning how to use traditional tools as well gonna be a nightmare but I will manage. I did find the Tried and True on amazon so I will be picking some up when I can. Thanks.
Glad to help Nik. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
This lm absolutely, positively sure l need help with. Some things bother my wife with smells. This is by far the best help lve gotten so far, thanks.
If I use shellac as a sanding sealer, can I put an oil finish on after?
Thank you very much for the information I am using both products. I mix my own shalec and beeswax and linseed oil.
Simple is good in my book. You introduced me to the tried and true products and I use all 3. The third product is linseed oil and pine resin. It applies much like the pure linseed oil but dries a bit harder. You mentioned pecan. Have you noticed that pecan has a distinct pore structure. If you ever want the pores to pop, mix a slurry of linseed oil or tung with rotten stone. Apply with the lathe running. The pores will fill in with the subtle color of the rotten stone and cure that way with a nice luster. Thanks for the good instruction.
Oh, very cool. Thank you for writing and sharing! Happy Turning!
Thanks a lot for this ! Making your own shellac does not cost much. In Belgium, you buy the flakes for less than a certain on-line sell website, and you can buy denatured alcohol in drugstores (actually, what we call "pharmacies", that sell only medications). I think this leads to an easy conclusion : come live in Belgium... 😇
Great info Thomas. Thank you for writing and sharing! Happy Turning…in Belgium!
Kent, Excellent review/presentation of finishes. Obviously, you have put in a great deal of time researching and becoming knowledgeable regarding this subject.
Lac Bug "GUNK" ? I had to laugh at that 😅, but you're actually spot on.
I had always wondered why my dad, who loved making furniture and cabinets, loved using shellack for many things over varnish. Sure, he used other finishes, but he loved shellack. He had a great family friend who owned a hardware store and mentored him in many things like this. I am happy to thank you for mentoring us on what finishes work well for woodturners.
Blessings
- Lowell
Hi Kent. Great video. A question for you. I turn a lot of Spalted wood so the idea of using shellac to harden the fibres makes a lot of sense. I typically use a penetrating oil or oil wax finish like Tried and True or Odie’s. My question is, would the shellac prevent the oil finish from penetrating the wood?
Well done Kent. This is all great, no nonsense information, I wish I would have seen this years ago before I started on my lengthy "finishing" journey. You've condensed what took me years to figure out in a 30m concise video. Thank you for your expertise, as usual!
Use shellac as a tool.
Use lacquer for shiny show pieces.
Use Tried and True for food safe.
Keep it simple.
Very helpful. Thank you 😊
Thank you, Timothy. Happy Turning!
Great tutorial. Thanks.
Great finishing tutorial Kent.
Very good and really enjoyed. I favour the natural oil approach myself using Liberon Oil.Chris.
Thank you Kent ,for this very clear informative video
I honestly did not know that the Kleen Strip brand of (Denatured alcohol) had oils in them that don’t dissipate after drying. I’ve made shellac for a while now. I guess I’ll be rethinking my methods. Thanks Kent
Glad to help. Yes, anything can be put into most finish products. Happy Turning!
Thanks. I really like tung oil mixed with orange oil.
Perhaps you are referring to Real Milk Paint Co. " Half & Half"? I like that as well, especially on oak. On Cherry, I use their "Wood Wax" (walnut oil and carnuba wax) only as it keeps it from getting ever darker as years go by.
@@PINEPUPPY I just mix it myself
Do you ever use the denatured alcohol to clean the surface of your bowl before applying a finish?
Bill, yes occasionally. Happy Turning!
Do you use a product like Acks polishing paste before putting on the Tried and True finish?
That's what I was asking for. Thank you.
I’m in Crete Greece where I can only get olive wood. I use shellac and denatured alcohol (meths) or beeswax mixed with a little olive oil. I cannot buy all the pre manufactured product. These both give a great finish. Shellac is also used to coat Smarties ( M&M’s)
Chris, sounds excellent. BTW, I'd trade you for some of the olive wood. ;) All the best to you and Happy Turning! Kent
I use "Minwax wipe on Poly" for fruit bowls but make my own friction polish for Trinket boxes. Denatured alcohol is difficult to find in Canada but I have had great success using 99% Isopropyl, boiled linseed oil and shellac flakes in equal weights for the friction polish. Usually takes 48 hours to completely dissolve the flakes. Apply both with folded paper towel but very thin on the Wipe on poly. Tried the mineral oil but it dries out pretty quick
Can you create a glossy finish with the tried and true. Love the videos
Possibly. Try their resin, it is linseed oil and pine resin. It will cure hard and can be polished. I haven't tried it yet myself. Happy Turning!
Thank you for an excellent presentation!
Sometimes I just use a sanding sealer (which is a form of shellac) and sand very lightly between coats and then finish with a couple of applications of a good wax. It creates a hard finish that can be burnished to a warm finish and is easily brought back to a nice finish by just some rubbing.
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing
Have you ever used hard wax oils or finishes like Odie's Oil? Not trying to be confusing. Thanks for simplifying your finishing processes.
Very informative! Which finish would you recommended for something thats excessively handled like a turned handle on a kitchen utensil. Would the tried and true be durable enough could you put shellac on top pf that for more protection?
Very good information.
Thanks for another great video Kent! I do have a question regarding you using shellac and then apply lacquer. Watco lacquer containers state not to apply the
lacquer over shellac? Have you ever had any problems doing this and does the finish last?
Thank you for the great video as always!
Im turning a fruit bowl and only have danish oil to finish it, is that okay?
Kent.... Love the very helpful video. I'm also using Tried & True Original with good results. BUT - the flat work folks who have run comparisons seem to strongly prefer Odies, Osmo, or Rubio Monocoat. I'm wondering why none of the RUclips woodturners have tried any of these other hard wax oils? Thanks.
Have tried Shellawax finish?
I haven't Brian. Happy Turning!
Curious what your recommendation would be for projects that are meant for outdoor use. I use an oil based marine polyurethane. Is there a better option?
Thanks
I need advice on the end stages of finishing a bowl (including the application of a finish).
I've turned and sanded the outside and inside of the bowl to a high grit sandpaper, then I start the process of turning off the tenon leaving a small nub so that I can re-sand and blend the rest of the bowl outside surface.
Should I apply a finish before removing the small tenon nub? Or is it possible to apply the finish off the lathe? Do you have any videos or advice here?
Please advise.
Thanks,
MikeB
P.S. Love your videos!
Mike,
It depends. Sometimes I apply the finish on the lathe if I'm using Tried and True original. because I can return the next day and use the lathe rotation to burnish the finish with 0000 steel wool. I'll then finish the foot separate. You can also completely finish turning the bowl and sand the foot then apply finish. Which ever way works for the bowl you're making.
All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Kent
Shellac is a punny play on words, or portmanteau, if you prefer. The resin is secreted by the female Lac beetle.
Paul, yes and if you dig further, the Lac beetle/bug is not even their name. Lac means a number, I think thousands. They are called "Lac" because thousands swarm trees at a time. At least that's what I read.
Is there eny way you would have an old sharponing jig i am a disabled vet and cant aford a new one if you do please let me know how much i live in 0rigon
Ron, I'd love to help but I don't have an extra jig. Check with a local AAW turning club. Someone might be able to help you out.
Happy Turning!
Kent
Thanks Kent, as always very informative. As a very lazy chap my guaranteed method is 1. Cellulose/Shellac sanding sealer. 2. Yorkshire grit. 3. Microcrystalline wax. Great finish every time.
Thanks for the great info
Kent, there are two types of shellac and different colours that I can purchase in Australia, waxed and de-waxed. Have you used any of these and/or which would you recommend?
Go with dewaxed. That's all I've used and I guess the other has wax…don't need that. ;) Happy Turning!
what about a lacquer sanding sealer such as DEF then lacquer rather than shellac . seems the chemical mix would be better . just wondering
Would you recommend shellac and lacquer for the interior of a sugar bowl or leave it unfinished? I'm thinking Tried/True linseed/beeswax would hold on to the sugar.
Kent, this was excellent. After 15y of turning, reading and experimenting with finishes I now understand more about the different finishes, and some of my failures. I have been particularly puzzled by lacquers. My go to finish is still specific brands of Danish Oil, unless colouring my wood. What do you think of Sunflower Oil? Many thanks. Bernard.
Sunflower oil great for potato fries!
Kent - as always - great information + excellent presentation. Have you ever used the Beall buffing system? What do you think of using the finest buffing (white diamond) on the tried and true finish to get the burnishing effect instead of hand work with 0000 steel wool?
Shellac will also dissolve into the previous coat ie French polish
Good stuff Kent. What would you use if you are burnishing the wood?
Thank you, Alan. I use 0000 steel wool. Happy Turning!
I have learned so much from your videos! I watched this one twice, and I still have a question. I'm looking for the best product or products to use when I want a shiny film finish that is also food safe, that does not require constant re-application. An example would be for a salad bowl that I actually plan to use for salad.
So far the finishes I have used (Tried and True Original, Odies Oil, and Milk Paint Wood Wax,) all seem to soak in and not really create a film. "Milk Paint Soft Was Clear" seems to provide a thin film if I use a sanding sealer underneath it, but I want something more durable. I also purchased some Polycrylic (a Minwax product), that is similar to water based poly, but it is not marketed as food safe. I realize the rule of thumb that most products are actually food safe after they are "fully cured", but some products need up to 3 months to fully cure, and I don't want to guess how long I would need to wait. If you can offer a suggestion for a good food safe film finish, I would really appreciate it. Thanks, Kent!
Good question TMR. I do not know of a shiny film finish that is good for daily use. The shine will dull when microscopic scratches occur. Also, film finish can flake off with heavy use, making them not food safe. I think a medium luster with a oil/wax finish is about the best compromise, unless someone else has a better idea. Happy Turning!
Red iso Heet is 98.5% isopropyl alcohol, yellow Heet is methanol, might work for your shellac
Do you use abrasive paste?
Good question. I do not use paste.
The ethanol linked in the description IS denatured alcohol!
Can I correct you on something? I just scanned the comments for the word "Boil". Boiled linseed oil is not actually boiled. Metallic catalysts are added to promote the drying of it in air. I think they boiled linseed oil to get the catalysts to dissolve maybe a hundred years ago or more. Sorry to interrupt.
Alex, you are correct. That is the current modern method. Tried and True brand does the old school method of truly boiling the product and adds no metals, etc. That's why I use it.
You're can of worms 🪱! I can't wait to go finishing!
LOL!
My father had enjoyed woodshop classes in school, and had learned that shellac and motor oil made a good finish for wood turnings. Pour it on a rag and rub it in, letting the rag get smoking hot if possible. So when I first dabbled in turning, that’s what I used. Sixty-odd years later, those early projects still have a great finish. We didn’t worry much about food safety, but Dad lived to 96, so it couldn’t have been all that noxious. Motor oil has changed over the years, but I might just give the modern stuff a shot and see how it turns out.
Wow! That's a new one to me. ;) Happy Turning!
What about using isopropyl alcohol ?
This was going to be my question. As a chemist, I think it should work. Also, methanol (methyl hydrate) should also work
Thanks. I will have to try that.@@ianjenkins6570
Ferg, Give it a try. Remember, the alcohol is just a "carrier" for the dissolved shellac. If it dissolves and evaporates, then it should be fine. Happy Turning! Kent
Rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) will dry slower and methyl hydrate (methanol) will dry faster. Other than that, they should work the same way
Walrus Oil for all my bowls.
I saw a violin maker thinning his varnish with alcohol. I assumed it must be shellac but he yelled at me that it wasn't and not to confuse the audience. He said it wasn't shellac, but how can you thin varnish with something that contains water (which alcohol does)? It's the wild west out there.
Oh yes, Alex. "Wild West" is the best way of describing it. See, many people don't want to share info unfortunately. Sigh. Whatever. There's a good chance it was a special cocktail and I'd bet willing to bet shellac was a major ingredient. ;) Happy Turning!
@@TurnAWoodBowl Thanks. You too.
@@TurnAWoodBowl Look at this:(taken from Chat GPT OpenAI) The formulation of water-miscible linseed oil, such as Winsor & Newton's Artisan linseed oil, typically involves the use of emulsifiers or surfactants to facilitate the mixing of oil with water. Emulsifiers are molecules that have both hydrophilic (water-attracting) and lipophilic (oil-attracting) properties, allowing them to stabilize emulsions of oil and water.
Several types of emulsifiers could potentially be used in the formulation of water-miscible linseed oil:
1. **Lecithin**: Lecithin is a naturally occurring emulsifier found in egg yolks, soybeans, and other sources. It is commonly used in food and cosmetic products as an emulsifying agent. In art materials, lecithin may be used to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions and improve the compatibility of linseed oil with water.
2. **Polyethylene glycol (PEG)**: Polyethylene glycol is a synthetic polymer that is widely used as an emulsifier and surfactant in various applications. It can help to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions by reducing the surface tension between oil and water molecules.
3. **Sorbitan esters (e.g., Span series)**: Sorbitan esters are a class of nonionic surfactants derived from sorbitol and fatty acids. They are commonly used as emulsifiers in food, pharmaceuticals, and personal care products. In art materials, sorbitan esters may be used to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions and improve the flow and spread of water-miscible oils.
4. **Ethoxylated fatty alcohols or acids**: Ethoxylated fatty alcohols or acids are synthetic surfactants produced by reacting fatty alcohols or acids with ethylene oxide. They are commonly used as emulsifiers and solubilizers in various applications, including paints, coatings, and personal care products. In water-miscible linseed oil formulations, ethoxylated fatty alcohols or acids may help to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions and improve the dispersibility of the oil in water.
These are just a few examples of emulsifiers that could potentially be used in the formulation of water-miscible linseed oil. The specific emulsifiers and formulation techniques used by manufacturers may vary depending on factors such as desired properties, compatibility with other additives, and regulatory considerations.
What is a rule of thumb for time between coats. Is there a rule?
They should cure fully. Read the can instructions. Happy Turning!
if you live in right place. like iowa.. You can get pure moonshine.
That would work too, Matt. Happy Turning!
Why did you not talk about food safe products on our bowl?? Also I was told LaGuardia has a dangerous chemical in at and I should not use it?? Thanks for your help! Gerry
This video is just all talking...
I love watching your videos and have learned a lot! But Dang… you fell to the popping your face in and out. Why? It’s so annoying to, and hard on the eye to watch! Please stop that popping in and out!
Thank you for your clarity Kent. There is so much that I now understand about finishes.
This lm absolutely, positively sure l need help with. Some things bother my wife with smells. This is by far the best help lve gotten so far, thanks.
Do you recommend multiple coats of the Linseed oil finish?
William, you can, just make sure each coat cures before applying additional coats. Happy Turning!