BTW this video is excellent and detailed. I'm a lifelong mechanic etc and I'll point people here if they are curious. If you want to locate an overhead support for an engine lift etc, consult with the person pouring your footing to leave solid areas of appropriate depth for anchoring steel post uprights etc. MAKE SURE you know the boundaries of those areas so you do not drill your heating tube! I used 8" of fiberglass-reinforced concrete with no slab heating on mine but I live in South Carolina and have/will bolt many things to the floor. Spray foam beats batting since it seals out condensation and is worth the effort. If it got cold where I live I'd use that, too. Batting invites vermin. The way to hang accessories from the ceiling is to take advantage of the thread protrusion of the bolts through the nuts, and screw on "sleeve nuts" which are simple long hex nuts to these. You then may use bolts in the opposite end of the sleeve nuts to attach accessories. Your accessories may be on plates or brackets which "pick up" multiple bolts. Easier seen than explained. A bottle of anti-seize should be at hand for the whole job. Hit every thread even if you never expect to unbolt them! It protects them from corroding together and if years later you wish to change something it will save your posterior! About ten bucks at the auto store. I did something unusual with mine as I had bartered for enough I-beam to frame the whole base. I welded it together (common Lincoln AC225 with 6011 rod did the job), drilled it for the building "base channel" bolts, then assembled the building leaving the ends open. I poured the concrete afterwards. Some of you may have friends with enough scrap steel to do this and it works a treat for a shop or anything else. In my case it cost me near zero and was cheaper than if I bought wood to make forms. 3M 5200 marine through-hull sealant is superior by far to conventional "caulk" as if it fails, what it's on may be at the bottom of an ocean. Widely available so give it a try. It's my go-to goo for my ISO container and Steelmaster.
Your information and expertise is evident in your video and your honesty and forthrightness is refreshing. You have given good advice and also have helped me make choices. One, that this type of building is probably not one I plan on doing. Without the truss support you are relying totally on the foundation for support as you stated. If you aren't planning on putting up a concrete pad then apparently- this is NOT the building choices you want to go with. Thank you for your honest appraisal of this prefab strip built buildings.
The PEX pipe is incredibly tough. You could tow a car with it. I have dealt with leaks in concrete with the OLD systems using copper pipe in the concrete. That was a mess! To avoid the possible problem I avoid any joints inside the concrete, although I have NEVER had a leak at a fitting or joint. With the OLD systems you would need to break out the concrete and fix the leak. I have never had a leak in this garage, my house or in a snowmelt system.
Great video!! I myself, decided to build a storage in my garden prefabricated from metal sheets as you find them in the stores!! USA-made and very practical it's in use now for two years! I only have a lot of condenceforming and a coating like you showed would be recommendable!! Your garage would also look great on Mars!!! Very futuristic design!!
The 2x4 runners for the plywood went as high as the straight sidewalls. This was the logical place to stop the plywood when foam insulation was being used. I think the ply ended up being cut at 5 ft 5 in. The cut off ends were used in the end wall and on other projects.
You should consider installing a roof vent to prevent condensation from forming. My small garage (the one in this video) has one roof vent and the large garage now has two roof vents. Initially I did not install roof vents on the large garage and condensation was a huge problem - especially with drastic changes in the weather (sudden changes in humidity and temperature). As soon as the roof vents were installed the condensation problem went away.
I put up a 35ft wide x 30ft deep building around 10 years ago. Almost give up on before we got the first three rings up. I had 7 people helping. And 5 of them thought they had a better ideal on putting it up then I did. Took us 5 hours to get 4 rings up the first day. Second day, I told each one again how we were going to do it. And if anyone did not want to do it my way. Go home or where every they wanted to go. 3 hours we had the rest of the rings up. Easy as can be, but still lots of bolts to finish. One of the best building I have put up.
I live in the Ozarks. This is a 500 sq ft garage. The high-density closed-cell foam insulation is very efficient. MY A/C are small 6500 BTU units. High temp here can be the upper 90 to 110 deg F so on a hot humid day my AC are running all the time. How much AC do you need? I don’t know. Depends on the insulation, how much heat you generate inside the garage (what equip, how many people, etc). So you need someone locally (heating & ventilation company) to do a heat balance calculation for you.
Thanks!! That's a great advice!! I saw the roofvents on you video and I liked the idea of a ventilator!! Yes, when the day was warm and then cools off it's raining inside!!! I have different equipments like a generator which are coroding eventhough the are inside the shed!! Now I open the doors in the morning to vent out!! It's better to have that permently through vents in te roof!!!
This is a very well done Video Ron. I'm about to put my building up and I plan on following your modifications for insulation, venting and power. Thank you for taking the time and effort to put this together for is newbies. Brad Allore Aircraft Maintenance Engineer
Brad Allore May the force be with you. :-) If you have never cursed a nut & bolt before you probably will by the time your 3 or 4 buckets of nuts & bolts disappear. I have a number of videos related to this particular garage and how I later decided to re-enter and install dust collection ductwork and various items to make it my wood working shop, including placing filters on those window A/C units. Please subscribe if you haven’t already. Good luck with your building. Ron Walters Mechanical Engineer
Wow, thanks so much. I always wondered about your building. What a fantastic structure. I like the idea of something relatively monolithic without a standard roof to worry about. Thanks again for this vid.
Because there are no internal structures or trusses, the height of the sidewalls is relatively short. For light weight items stored on shelves I would attach the shelves to the plywood walls. If you need higher shelves, order taller sidewalls. Strictly speaking the building is only designed to support itself and no additional (external) loads. Common sense comes into play here when it comes to dealing with actual situations.
Wood framing tie in is "whatever works and is sound". I have the same style (there are many vendors and the rolling machines to make the panels are old news) and would make brackets and bolt them through any wall I put up. I dislike wood so I went with metal. You use metal expansion bolts (referred to as "red heads" by some) to hold the base plate to the concrete. Rent or buy a hammer drill of appropriate size.
Excellent Video. You stated in your video that you have developed "your own method of attaching the wood end walls to the metal building".. It will be my residence. Again the question is 'how best to attach the 2 X 4's to the metal building (stud walls) and an end wall as well. . I am going with a 'steelmaster' building and from what they explained, with having to attach 'threaded rods to the hex head arch bolts, coupling nuts (extensions). etc. Please help. Thanks, bob.
Thanks!! You're right!! Or your neighbours!!! Came around your videos of building wooden clocks!! That's my kind of thing!! I remember builded a model of a one handed clock with two pebblestones a weights! Very nice and not that complicated as building it all by yourself! But your videos make my blood run faster of enthusiasm!! Look at my foto on the left and see what's hanging on the wall and you'll understand I do like clocks!!!
I have what appears to be an identical steel building sold in Canada by Future (Steel) Buildings. I haven't assembled it yet but it will have wood framed front and back walls. So it would have been *real nice* if you had shown how you tie the wood framing into the steel arches but I understand your need to keep some trade secrets. I'll probably end up using 4' wide insulation bats designed for steel construction as that is far more of a DIY project than is insulating spray foam. Anyway nice video and a beautiful garage.
I hear ya Ron......I can put a Bell 214 helicopter together in my sleep but, anything requiring assembly from IKEA or TOYS-R-US makes me run in fear....:)
Estimate the concrete work (footings, stem walls, 5” reinforced floor) the steel building will probably cost you about the same. Learn about radiant heat systems and do it yourself. You will probably need help with the concrete and foam insulation. Building erection, wood front-end wall, garage door, electrical, plumbing, A/C, exhaust fan, etc. you can do these yourself fairly cheap. Make a detailed list and get estimates. If you cannot do any of this yourself, turnkey will cost you a fortune.
Basically nothing comes with anything suitable for one of these buildings unless it came from the building manufacturer. I got the exhaust fan and shutter from Grainger Supply. Currently I have a busted foot and not in a position (nor the mood) to look for any paperwork. :-) I figured out the cuts for the opening (as shown in the video) and then had the outside metal cut (to span several corrugations) and the inside frame for the fan made to suit. You can see how the outside shutter attaches and that there were a couple strips of angle iron used inside between the end wall metal and the fan frame. You need to think about diverting rainwater and not creating a bucket above the shutter. That is why I bent the end wall cuts outward. Then lots of silicone sealant (the good stuff). You need to power wash the inside and outside of the building with hot soap and water and rinse several times to remove any mill oil if you want anything to stick to the Galvalume. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching. Ron
Ronald, can you supply some instructions on how you framed the front wall in this video please? What you did there is exactly what I want to do on my building.
I did not insulate nor heat the other building. When it was built I had no intention of getting into wood working. It was just going to be a storage garage.
Been watching your channel and content for at least a decade now Ron! Came back to this video as I've recently erected my own steel building here in Ontario Canada. I was hoping I could ask you some questions regarding the construction of the wood frame end walls? Appreciate any help you could provide.
Go through the comments under this video first. Unfortunately some of RUclips's "so called" updates and improvements have scrambled some of the questions and answers. Then go to my channel page... click on "About" and go to the lower left-hand corner and send me an email to that address. It doesn't get checked every day but I will find it. Thanks for watching. Ron
Nominal size (for this building) is 25 ft wide x 40 ft long. The arch sections are 2 ft center-to-center. So count the number of arches and you know how long the building is.
Videos are watched/rated by how short and concise they are... not how long they are. Half of the time people don't watch the whole thing anyway. Perhaps YOU need to learn how to run a video on RUclips. If you don't have time to see something tap the space bar or click on the mouse cursor (on the video) and the video will pause... do it again and it will resume. Got it?
@@RonaldWalters2010 Simply love your reply to this guy! Don't you hate it when someone is too lazy to watch the video but would rather leave some insulting or irrelevant comment. Thank you for a very good video!
Hola soy Jorge y estoy interesado en su sistema de cubiertas , quisiera información sobre ; que espesor de chapa puede utilizar, que desarrollo, que producción por hora de laminación y que precio tiene el equipo completo. Gracias y espero pronto la informacion
Very nice, Ron. I admire your abilities and envy your lifestyle. Where do you live? Pioneer is a Canadian company, if I'm not mistaken. I'm in Saskatchewan but also have a place in British Columbia. Can you supply into the Okanagan Valley?
Ronald, I am guessing you live a little north of me since you put a lot of effort into the heating system. I live in southern Louisiana, where it is exactly opposite. You mentioned "the hottest of days" using those two small window units. Can you tell me how hot you meant, and how much AC I might need when the days get into the mid-upper 90's? Nice job on the video, as usual.
Looks great- very interesting. On those plywood panels I see you didn't go up the full 8 feet , but it seems they aren't 4 feet either. Did you cut them down? I'm just curious to why- purely aesthetic or other reasons as well? Thanks Ron!
What is the finished cost of the building with the heating system and accessories you show in this video and how does the cost compare to a wood frame building?
Sorry, no video showing that. Remove the existing building bolts at the level of the 2x4’s which the interior walls (plywood) will attach to. Pre-drill a hole from outside. 5/16 galvanized Lag bolt with a steel washer and a bonded washer under the head. Bonded washers have rubber on one side but the metal is pretty thin. Then grind the protruding point of the lag bolt off flush with the inside of the 2x4. Pine is soft so you want a full length of thread inside the wood and do not over tighten and strip out the threads. Don't overheat the lag bolt when grinding so as not to burn the wood. I used four 2x4’s for attaching the plywood (top, bottom and 2 in the center).
@@RonaldWalters2010 thank you for the information sir. I've been looking at turning one of these buildings in a camp hut for my father and mother. So I've been trying to find a way to attract siding, as I have a habit of over thinking simple problems.
Remove the existing building bolts at that level. Pre-drill a hole from outside. 5/16 galvanized Lag bolt with a steel washer and a bonded washer under the head. Bonded washers have rubber on one side but the metal is pretty thin. Then grind the protruding point of the lag bolt off flush with the inside of the 2x4. Pine is soft so you want a full length of thread inside the wood and do not over tighten and strip out the threads. Don't overheat the lag bolt when grinding so as not to burn the wood.
Much better than my 240 sq ft camper! but my camper only cost $1,000.00. I assume this garage cost $50K minimum. You have to check w/ your county codes. I live rural so garage homes are OK. May not be allowed within in a city limit.
Interesting video, Ron... Found it on woodgears. At first I thought this was a historical document about your woodshop, but through watching the video I see the cyclone on the back of the other building, and the cars inside this one. Then I'm reminded of your other videos of using the "indents" in the side of the steel shop building for innovative tool storage and so on. This begs the question - how did you insulate your woodshop building? Or didn't you?
Nice vid, Ron, So you will now be a dealer for this brand of building? Good deal! I'm sure your consideration for construction and improvements will be valuable. rc
Was this done with permits? Where? Anybody know if Florida lets you install these on commercial lots (as the primary structure) and conduct business out of them? Anybody know what the turnkey cost for a building this size with that slab installed?
Built with permits? Yes. Designed for the county and state where it will be installed... snow load or wind load included. Many have been installed in Florida... personal, residential, commercial. The rest is for your research.
So how much did this run you? I am in MN and would love to do something similar at some point. Between the concrete, building, and installation/erection; how much do I need to save up for a turnkey building?
I did not have any photos of using the epoxy. The rebar must be mechanically connected to the stem walls. Stub sections of rebar were epoxied into the drilled holes to provide that solid mechanical connection. After drilling the holes in the concrete blow out all dust before epoxying the rebar into the holes. The rebar is overlapped by several feet and wire tied to each other. The concrete will hold everything together after that. Is that clear? Thanks for watching. Please subscribe.
Hi Ronald I just built a steel building the same style as yours the only thing I have left to do is build in the end walls like you did on the front of your building is there any advice on how to attach to the steel building I've been trying to figure out how to do it and haven't came up with anything solid yet I've watched your video but I can't tell how you went about it and there really isn't any information on this subject that I can find. any help you can give would be much appreciated
I did get my end walls done they came out awesome I used steel studs 2x4 16ga it is very strong I ended up putting in a top and bottom rail that goes all the way around the edge so all the studs are inside of it and screwed tight at top and bottom
Sorry one more thing I see you have the spray foam installation how can you dry wall or whatever to make it look like a nice flat wall in sorry I have no knowledge of this stuff but I'm extremely interested in building a 25x40 as a little house maybe
Danny Doty The appearance of the foam is a direct function of the experience of the person spraying it... but it will never be smooth and "pretty".You either need to accept the irregular surface of the foam or frame out a conventional rectangular structure inside the steel building so it has flat walls and a flat ceiling in which case a lot of space is lost inside the steel structure. A 25x40 is not very big if you start trying to frame out the interior to make it look flat.Go to PioneerSteel.com and look around the photo gallery for a few ideas. Google: Building a home inside a steel building (or similar) for more ideas.
+Danny Doty Once you choose an insulation type, usually cost determined, you can just frame in whatever sort of interior you want as per normal. There is no need to anchor to the outside wall or structure, no more than you'd need to anchor the exterior wall of any other structure to something. You'll lose inches dependent upon what sort of thickness of studs and panel you pick relative to the amount of load you're designing the interior structure to handle. I like how he took the time to describe the rebar through concrete with epoxy trick he uses to keep the width of the structure static... seems like a smart man. With the slope of the roof just keep your interior design/framing off and away (air gapped) from the upper super-structure's flex points and I can't see much of an issue. Boxes in boxes (or in this case: building boxes beneath and arch). Not sure if you know that I mean but I did my best.
These are made in Toronto Canada and the metal is Galvalume. Galvalume, invented by Bethlehem Steel in 1972, is a steel sheet with a coating of 55% aluminum and 45% zinc. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe. That's what keeps this channel going! Ron
@@RonaldWalters2010 Hi Ron. Can you confirm if the corrugations trap or hold water in the valleys when rained on?. I fear galvanic erosion. Cheers Carl
Water runs off. Like anything else, you need to pay attention to the assembly. The overlaps need to be on top of the lower piece... just like roof shingles. Very straight forward assembly.
This may sound like the craziest idea for the use of one of these arched panel buildings. I am a disabled female veteran and I am looking for ways to build a loft style building which allows easy movement in a wheelchair, and use it as my home. Any ideas? I know I would have to add heat/ac plumbing for a kitchen and a bathroom. Thank you for any ideas and help you may have for me. I have been begging my local VA for handicap adapted home grant, and after 27 plus years, I have given up on my VA doing anything for me.
First go to pioneersteel.com and look around. Under building types go to Photo Gallery… it’s not great but it shows some stuff. The building is not hard to erect but it is labor intensive. And it must be put together correctly so you don’t have any leaks. You simply need to pay attention and follow directions. I had a 3-man crew put up my second building in 3 days (but they knew what they were doing). Finding and experienced crew may be difficult. The steel building is strong, weather proof, termite proof, fire proof and you will not need to replace shingles. The steel building is self-supporting but it will not support any additional structure internally or externally. That means you CANNOT hang any portion of your residential construction from the steel building. You would frame out your internal construction inside the steel building and the building would be your outer protective shell. You would want roof turbines on the steel building to prevent condensation inside the steel building. I would not recommend the skylights you will see offered by the steel building companies. So you would end up with a wood house inside a steel shell. You decide what you want, draw up a floor plan including plumbing & electrical details, then do the excavation for footings and concrete floor (you may end up with footings for the steel building and footings for your internal construction). Then ask for the building to be delivered. Usually all the parts of the building are unloaded by hand piece by piece (and there are a LOT of pieces and buckets of nuts & bolts). Having 6 to 8 strong, younger people for this is a very good idea. Erect the building and then build your house inside. Don’t know where you live, I use radiant heat, which is nice because the floor is warm and the heat rises from the floor. Radiant heat is fairly cheap if you can do it yourself like I did but tends to be outrageously overpriced by contractors and if they don’t know what they are doing it can be a nightmare! Your insulation would be in the walls and ceiling of your framed construction. I have no idea where you would intend to build this nor your idea of what a loft would be or the intended access. A elevator could be a problem with a power failure. Sprayed foam insulation is expensive but many, many, many times more efficient than fiberglass plus it seals the building airtight. Another good insulation is sprayed in place cellulose insulation (recycled paper product - Google it). This is basically how mice and rats make an insulated nest by chewing up paper and cardboard. Cellulous insulation is many, many times better than fiberglass. Fiberglass insulation (to me) is a rip-off, a waste of money and a joke. I heat my house with a hot water heater. I heat my shop with a hot water heater. I have zero fiberglass in my house. If you want to live inside something that looks like the inside of my workshop then you would need to have all the plumbing and electrical done before spraying the foam insulation. Watch my video Welcome To My New Shop, which pans around the inside of the building. The sprayed foam is not pretty but it is a good insulation and when painted white reflects the light nicely. Living inside my workshop (which is 500 sq ft) would be like a studio apartment with a 100% open floor plan. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and Please Subscribe… there is probably some other stuff which will be of interest to you. Ron
@ronaldwalters I have some questions regarding your building as I am preparing to build mine. I have concrete and base plates ready to go how can I contact you?
Ronald Graham Remember, most sales people you talk to probably wouldn’t recognize one of these building if it fell on them. They are working off a script or have been told to tell customers “never drill a hole in the building”. Common sense and logic are needed when you do these things. The building bolts are on the outside of the corrugations except where the base plate attaches. The flat panels are on the inside of the corrugations. I drilled a ¼” hole in the center of the flat panels and attached the 2x4’s with a lag bolt in every flat the length of the building. I used a flat washer against a bonded washer on the outside of the building to maintain a good seal against the building panels. A bonded washer is a metal washer with rubber bonded to one side. The metal portion of a bonded washer is relatively thin and flimsy. The flat washer supports it. A little silicone sealant on the rubber of the bonded washer is a good idea. Only tighten the lag bolts firmly, do not strip the threads in the wood (2x4’s are pine and it tends to be fairly soft wood). Every flat along the base plate has two bolts (which will engage the 2x4’s. Along the bottom against the base plate, smack the 2x4 with a hammer to indent the wood where all the base plate bolts are. Drill clearance holes for one bolt and nut (original building bolt and nut) and a hole for the lag bolt in the other. The height of your side walls will determine if you have to do the same thing for the top 2x4 (watch the video again and you will see what I mean). Use lag bolts long enough to obtain full thread contact with the entire thickness of the 2x4 and then grind off the excess bolt flush with the inside of the 2x4. I used on 2x4 at the top, one at the bottom of the plywood and then 2 two more spaced in between (watch the video again). I would not recommend drilling holes in the curved sections or in the flat roof panels. A few holes in the vertical side panels and using bonded washers you should be good. Remember, think about what you are doing before you go drilling any holes.
Danny Doty I could not guess. You need to get an estimate from a contractor and then they would need to know the specific property involved, if city electric, water, gas and sewage are available or a rural location where a septic system and a water well would be required.
How much additional cost in involved in ordering the building with the industrial base plates instead of the regular method for anchoring the building, just using angle iron plates that get embedded in the concrete after assembly? It does seem much nicer and easier than trying to precisely locate each of the plates individually.
It does add some additional cost but the industrial base plates are a far superior mounting method and they precisely locate each arch where they are supposed to be. An unsupported arch can grow or distort in length. The industrial base plates and perforated angle straps keep things aligned until all the bolts & nuts are installed. Embedding the metal building into concrete can be a corrosion point and personally I never recommend it..
Ronald Walters Sounds like the best way to go, I'll go for that option. When doing the final tightening of all the nuts, is that done from the bottom? Since there's no way to hold the opposite end, I assume the bolts can remain stationary from friction while tightening the nuts.
Follow the directions that come with the building. All bolts & nuts holding all the arch sections are installed loose and about half the bolts & nuts between each arch are installed loose. All the bolts & nuts for the industrial base plates are installed loose. Once up and squared the remaining bolts & nuts are installed loose. After 100% of the bolts & nuts are installed loose, you go back and start tightening and try to do it symmetrically. The bolts are tightened from the outside and someone is inside holding the nuts with a wrench. Takes a while. Have fun and don't fall off the building.
Ronald Walters Okay, so there will need to be a helper for that final tightening then, thanks for the info. It'll be coming in March, so I'll have plenty of time to go through the process, very helpful-
I don't remember... but it wasn't cheap... but it is the best way to go providing you can find someone who knows what they are doing. I visited a shop that was sprayed by an amateur and it was an unbelievably ugly mess.
I have a pioneer steel shop with a steel end wall.I want to replace it with a wood end wall. Do you have any instuction or video on this as i cant find much
I"m attempting to find the video (if it exists) for tying the sides of the rounded steel structure into the rebar. Do you have the link for the concrete poor?
In the case of my garage, the building is not tied to the rebar. The stem walls and the concrete are tied together with rebar. Then the building is bolted to the stem walls. I do not have a video for the concrete work.
It is done a lot. Framed out residence in one end. Very durable outside shell with no shingles or siding to be concerned with. And then a large garage section in the other end for the RV, boat, cars airplane hanger or workshop. Many possibilities. go to Pioneer Steel Building website and then photo gallery. Cost effectiveness is a little like comparing apples and oranges as it depends on what you are going to do with it, however it provides a very solid building at a lower cost.
Excellent! Never thought about the metal building vs. stick built home before until it just sort of "hit me" a few days ago. I appreciate the feedback.
Hi Ronald - great job on your new workshop. Could you please provide a brief description on attaching your wood end wall to the steel. I have an idea - but I'm curious about your system. I may have bought my building with your help - in 2008 - had to put my shop on hold because of ill health. It's finally up now, and I want to do wood-framed end walls with vinyl siding too. I drove to Ontario CA to pick up my building in 08. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -steve
These are designed to withstand wind and snow loads for the specific location they will be built. They are not designed to support external loads. Burying it in the ground would result in a considerable external load and it would collapse.
Question asked. Question answered. Please read the comments. Unfortunately RUclips shuffles the questions and answers. Read them anyway. What it may have cost me back then is irrelevant to what it will cost you now for what you want or for the area where you live. Estimate the concrete work (footings, stem walls, 5” reinforced floor) the steel building will probably cost you about the same. You will need help with building erection (3 or 4 people). Learn about radiant heat systems and do it yourself. You will probably need help with the concrete and foam insulation. Framing the wood front-end wall, garage door, electrical, plumbing, A/C, exhaust fan, etc. you can do these yourself fairly cheap. Plan ahead. Make a detailed list of what you want and get estimates. If you cannot do any of this yourself, turnkey will cost you a lot more.
I like these type of steel building but i am concerned about the foam insulation. I have heard many dangers with this type of insulation. Is there alternative methods?
+Domenic Abitino Manufacturers show other much less efficient and complicated ways. You can research their websites. What are your concerns with the foam?
+Ronald Walters well I heard they can let off s toxic odor. Is this false or old versions. also if you ate in cold weather how does that effect the transf r between the steel and foam? does the steel sweat on the inside from the cold? with our workout the foam?
+Domenic Abitino A bare steel building can sweat on the inside with changing weather conditions. That it why roof turbine ventilators are recommended. With foam sprayed on the inside of the building it will not sweat. There were (possibly still are) some foam insulation which gave off formaldehyde. Much better polyurethane closed cell expanding foam insulation available today. Only closed cell polyurethane foam will adhere to the CLEAN steel building. The building needs to be power washed with soap and water and rinsed to remove mill oil. The foam also seals any air leaks and keeps out bugs. You would want to deal with an experienced installer to get an even coverage. I have seen some pretty sloppy foam jobs that looked terrible. The foam needs to be painted to protect it from ultraviolet light. Some contractors will say you can spray the inside of the building with glue and then spray cellulose insulation. Do not do that. It will fall off and you will have a real mess.
Danny Doty Or a LARGE home. It is done a lot. Framed out residence in one end. Very durable outside shell with no shingles or siding to be concerned with. And then a large garage section in the other end for the RV, boat, cars airplane hanger or workshop. Many possibilities. Go to Pioneer Steel Building website and then photo gallery. Cost effectiveness is a little like comparing apples and oranges as it depends on what you are going to do with it, however it provides a very solid building at a lower cost.
+Danny Doty My grandmother lives in a retirement community were all the residents own RV's and easily half of the homes are built out of buildings like these. Some of them would shock you how nice they are, you would never know once inside that they were a steel buildings. Like Ronald said most of them house the living space and garage or covered area for the RV's.
+ron johnson I used some of the building bolt holes where possible for the top & bottom 2x4's and drilled holes for the middle 2x4's. The 2x4's were attached with lag bolts with a bonded washer and a flat washer under the lag bolt head. The lag bolts protrude on the inside of the garage so I ground them flush with the surface of the 2x4. Watch the video again and you will see where the bolts are ground flush. Where a building bolt interferes with the 2x4, you use a forstner bit to cut a clearance hole in the 2x4.
Basically, calculate the cost of the stem walls and concrete floor with rebar as described and the building itself (bare building) will probably be about he same. Then add all the other goodies like front end framing, garage door, exhaust fan, insulation, electrical, etc., etc. My building cost was then... your cost would be "now".
Danny Doty Get an estimate from a GOOD concrete contractor for the footings and stem walls, both with lots of rebar, and the concrete slab with rebar on 2 ft centers both directions plus 6" square wire mesh, all as shown in this video. The cost of the steel building will probably be pretty close to the same cost.
Neighbors had lots of relatives. they helped him put it up. Concrete floor. snub wall on sides (inches), he build out the front and back. Structure is great. He was going to use it for working on cars, as he's otherwise unemployed. He's still unemployed, and doesnt have room in there for anything. filled with junk. He build shelves, to get stuff off the ground, and get more floor space back. Took stuff off the floor, put it on the shelves. Then got more stuff. Still same problem. Now, there's a path to walk in and out. Not enough room to take out a bicycle.
Until the bolts are all tightened, there is quite a bit of movement. After everything is tightened there is a very small amount of movement most noticeable end-to-end. You can hit the end of the building and it will transmit to the opposite end through some flex in the corrugations. After the expanding foam was installed it eliminated most of that but the steel buildings will expand and contract... bright sun then cloud cover or rain just like a metal roof does.
gojohnnygo6869 It is a Pioneer Steel Building manufactured in Toronto Canada. I bought it from myself. I am an authorized dealer. However I have not actively pursued trying to sell these buildings, as I do not have time to deal with it at this point in time.
Its not very good idea to use a rebar mesh as guide to pex piping as tiny movement of pipe could grind off pipe wall causing leaking - there's dedicated coated mesh to serve a purpose or plastic rails.
Hi Ronald I have recently purchased a Pioneer steel build 20x30 getting ready to mount the steel base plates i added to my order after watching this video my local dealer is useless and I do have some questions like what is the exact measurement between the base plates?
They are required to give you the drawings and the installation booklet for your building. You need the exact dimensions (which vary for each different type and size building) so you can prepare your stem wall (or whatever you are doing). Either grab your dealer by the throat (or kick him somewhere he will remember) to get his immediate attention or call the factory in Toronto, Canada and complain about your dealer. The factory will listen you... believe me! Since I did not sell you the building, I can not really help you.
![Megan Thee Stallion - Roc Steady (feat. Flo Milli) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HozPPyqW0dY/mqdefault.jpg)
BTW this video is excellent and detailed. I'm a lifelong mechanic etc and I'll point people here if they are curious.
If you want to locate an overhead support for an engine lift etc, consult with the person pouring your footing to leave solid areas of appropriate depth for anchoring steel post uprights etc. MAKE SURE you know the boundaries of those areas so you do not drill your heating tube!
I used 8" of fiberglass-reinforced concrete with no slab heating on mine but I live in South Carolina and have/will bolt many things to the floor. Spray foam beats batting since it seals out condensation and is worth the effort. If it got cold where I live I'd use that, too. Batting invites vermin.
The way to hang accessories from the ceiling is to take advantage of the thread protrusion of the bolts through the nuts, and screw on "sleeve nuts" which are simple long hex nuts to these. You then may use bolts in the opposite end of the sleeve nuts to attach accessories. Your accessories may be on plates or brackets which "pick up" multiple bolts. Easier seen than explained.
A bottle of anti-seize should be at hand for the whole job. Hit every thread even if you never expect to unbolt them! It protects them from corroding together and if years later you wish to change something it will save your posterior! About ten bucks at the auto store.
I did something unusual with mine as I had bartered for enough I-beam to frame the whole base. I welded it together (common Lincoln AC225 with 6011 rod did the job), drilled it for the building "base channel" bolts, then assembled the building leaving the ends open. I poured the concrete afterwards. Some of you may have friends with enough scrap steel to do this and it works a treat for a shop or anything else. In my case it cost me near zero and was cheaper than if I bought wood to make forms.
3M 5200 marine through-hull sealant is superior by far to conventional "caulk" as if it fails, what it's on may be at the bottom of an ocean. Widely available so give it a try.
It's my go-to goo for my ISO container and Steelmaster.
Good comments. Well written, accurate and constructive to the topic. Thanks for watching!
Your information and expertise is evident in your video and your honesty and forthrightness is refreshing. You have given good advice and also have helped me make choices. One, that this type of building is probably not one I plan on doing. Without the truss support you are relying totally on the foundation for support as you stated. If you aren't planning on putting up a concrete pad then apparently- this is NOT the building choices you want to go with. Thank you for your honest appraisal of this prefab strip built buildings.
The PEX pipe is incredibly tough. You could tow a car with it. I have dealt with leaks in concrete with the OLD systems using copper pipe in the concrete. That was a mess! To avoid the possible problem I avoid any joints inside the concrete, although I have NEVER had a leak at a fitting or joint. With the OLD systems you would need to break out the concrete and fix the leak. I have never had a leak in this garage, my house or in a snowmelt system.
Great video!! I myself, decided to build a storage in my garden prefabricated from metal sheets as you find them in the stores!! USA-made and very practical it's in use now for two years! I only have a lot of condenceforming and a coating like you showed would be recommendable!! Your garage would also look great on Mars!!! Very futuristic design!!
The 2x4 runners for the plywood went as high as the straight sidewalls. This was the logical place to stop the plywood when foam insulation was being used. I think the ply ended up being cut at 5 ft 5 in. The cut off ends were used in the end wall and on other projects.
You should consider installing a roof vent to prevent condensation from forming. My small garage (the one in this video) has one roof vent and the large garage now has two roof vents. Initially I did not install roof vents on the large garage and condensation was a huge problem - especially with drastic changes in the weather (sudden changes in humidity and temperature). As soon as the roof vents were installed the condensation problem went away.
I put up a 35ft wide x 30ft deep building around 10 years ago. Almost give up on before we got the first three rings up. I had 7 people helping. And 5 of them thought they had a better ideal on putting it up then I did.
Took us 5 hours to get 4 rings up the first day. Second day, I told each one again how we were going to do it. And if anyone did not want to do it my way. Go home or where every they wanted to go.
3 hours we had the rest of the rings up. Easy as can be, but still lots of bolts to finish. One of the best building I have put up.
The first 3 or 4 are the critical ones especially if the wind starts blowing.
I live in the Ozarks. This is a 500 sq ft garage. The high-density closed-cell foam insulation is very efficient. MY A/C are small 6500 BTU units. High temp here can be the upper 90 to 110 deg F so on a hot humid day my AC are running all the time. How much AC do you need? I don’t know. Depends on the insulation, how much heat you generate inside the garage (what equip, how many people, etc). So you need someone locally (heating & ventilation company) to do a heat balance calculation for you.
Thanks!! That's a great advice!! I saw the roofvents on you video and I liked the idea of a ventilator!! Yes, when the day was warm and then cools off it's raining inside!!! I have different equipments like a generator which are coroding eventhough the are inside the shed!! Now I open the doors in the morning to vent out!! It's better to have that permently through vents in te roof!!!
Great video. That closed cell foam is great stuff. That building will outlast us for sure.
master-craftsman at work very nice job
Just bought a q style from pioneer. It's being delivered in a week. You're videos are helpful. You're experience would be asset.
Really nice job. Placing a heat pump ductless system would make it perfect.
This is a very well done Video Ron. I'm about to put my building up and I plan on following your modifications for insulation, venting and power. Thank you for taking the time and effort to put this together for is newbies.
Brad Allore
Aircraft Maintenance Engineer
Brad Allore May the force be with you. :-) If you have never cursed a
nut & bolt before you probably will by the time your 3 or 4 buckets of nuts
& bolts disappear.
I have a number of videos related to this particular garage
and how I later decided to re-enter and install dust collection ductwork and
various items to make it my wood working shop, including placing filters on
those window A/C units.
Please subscribe if you haven’t already. Good luck with your
building.
Ron Walters
Mechanical Engineer
i like this video.. you sound like a smart guy and that seams like a rare thing now days
Wow, thanks so much. I always wondered about your building. What a fantastic structure. I like the idea of something relatively monolithic without a standard roof to worry about. Thanks again for this vid.
pretty neat and clean construction Sir. Very well done
Because there are no internal structures or trusses, the height of the sidewalls is relatively short. For light weight items stored on shelves I would attach the shelves to the plywood walls. If you need higher shelves, order taller sidewalls. Strictly speaking the building is only designed to support itself and no additional (external) loads. Common sense comes into play here when it comes to dealing with actual situations.
Wood framing tie in is "whatever works and is sound". I have the same style (there are many vendors and the rolling machines to make the panels are old news) and would make brackets and bolt them through any wall I put up. I dislike wood so I went with metal.
You use metal expansion bolts (referred to as "red heads" by some) to hold the base plate to the concrete. Rent or buy a hammer drill of appropriate size.
Excellent Video. You stated in your video that you have developed "your own method of attaching the wood end walls to the metal building".. It will be my residence. Again the question is 'how best to attach the 2 X 4's to the metal building (stud walls) and an end wall as well. . I am going with a 'steelmaster' building and from what they explained, with having to attach 'threaded rods to the hex head arch bolts, coupling nuts (extensions). etc. Please help. Thanks, bob.
Thanks!! You're right!! Or your neighbours!!! Came around your videos of building wooden clocks!! That's my kind of thing!! I remember builded a model of a one handed clock with two pebblestones a weights! Very nice and not that complicated as building it all by yourself! But your videos make my blood run faster of enthusiasm!! Look at my foto on the left and see what's hanging on the wall and you'll understand I do like clocks!!!
This is a very simple and informative video, thank you sir.
Great info, I have a pioneer endwall as well, I have a question about how you attached your stick framed to the building?
Sweet! Thanks Ron. Jim in Ohio
I have what appears to be an identical steel building sold in Canada by Future (Steel) Buildings. I haven't assembled it yet but it will have wood framed front and back walls. So it would have been *real nice* if you had shown how you tie the wood framing into the steel arches but I understand your need to keep some trade secrets. I'll probably end up using 4' wide insulation bats designed for steel construction as that is far more of a DIY project than is insulating spray foam. Anyway nice video and a beautiful garage.
I hear ya Ron......I can put a Bell 214 helicopter together in my sleep but, anything requiring assembly from IKEA or TOYS-R-US makes me run in fear....:)
Brad Allore as.
Looks like a lot of work
VERY GOOD VIDEO!!! lots of information Thank you
Estimate the concrete work (footings, stem walls, 5” reinforced floor) the steel building will probably cost you about the same. Learn about radiant heat systems and do it yourself. You will probably need help with the concrete and foam insulation. Building erection, wood front-end wall, garage door, electrical, plumbing, A/C, exhaust fan, etc. you can do these yourself fairly cheap. Make a detailed list and get estimates. If you cannot do any of this yourself, turnkey will cost you a fortune.
Your well of knowledge is deep. Thanks for the great info, as always!
Excellent video, Thanx..
Nice. I love the heat!
I basically have the same building. What exhaust fan did you end up using ? Did it come with the framing and attachment hardware to the end wall ?
Basically nothing comes with anything suitable for one of these buildings unless it came from the building manufacturer.
I got the exhaust fan and shutter from Grainger Supply. Currently I have a busted foot and not in a position (nor the mood) to look for any paperwork. :-)
I figured out the cuts for the opening (as shown in the video) and then had the outside metal cut (to span several corrugations) and the inside frame for the fan made to suit. You can see how the outside shutter attaches and that there were a couple strips of angle iron used inside between the end wall metal and the fan frame.
You need to think about diverting rainwater and not creating a bucket above the shutter. That is why I bent the end wall cuts outward. Then lots of silicone sealant (the good stuff). You need to power wash the inside and outside of the building with hot soap and water and rinse several times to remove any mill oil if you want anything to stick to the Galvalume.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for watching. Ron
Ronald, can you supply some instructions on how you framed the front wall in this video please? What you did there is exactly what I want to do on my building.
Sorry, I do not have a video showing the method I use to construct/connect the wood frame end wall.
I did not insulate nor heat the other building. When it was built I had no intention of getting into wood working. It was just going to be a storage garage.
Well done.
Been watching your channel and content for at least a decade now Ron! Came back to this video as I've recently erected my own steel building here in Ontario Canada. I was hoping I could ask you some questions regarding the construction of the wood frame end walls? Appreciate any help you could provide.
Go through the comments under this video first. Unfortunately some of RUclips's "so called" updates and improvements have scrambled some of the questions and answers.
Then go to my channel page... click on "About" and go to the lower left-hand corner and send me an email to that address. It doesn't get checked every day but I will find it.
Thanks for watching. Ron
Great build! Quick question... what size is the Q-Hut?
Nominal size (for this building) is 25 ft wide x 40 ft long.
The arch sections are 2 ft center-to-center. So count the number of arches and you know how long the building is.
@ Thank you for getting back to me.
You're welcome!
Thanks for watching. Please subscribe!
That is what keeps this channel going.
Ron
Very nice.
I added additional information in the description for this video.
Videos are watched/rated by how short and concise they are... not how long they are. Half of the time people don't watch the whole thing anyway. Perhaps YOU need to learn how to run a video on RUclips. If you don't have time to see something tap the space bar or click on the mouse cursor (on the video) and the video will pause... do it again and it will resume. Got it?
@@RonaldWalters2010 Simply love your reply to this guy! Don't you hate it when someone is too lazy to watch the video but would rather leave some insulting or irrelevant comment. Thank you for a very good video!
Hola soy Jorge y estoy interesado en su sistema de cubiertas , quisiera información sobre ;
que espesor de chapa puede utilizar, que desarrollo, que producción por hora de laminación y que precio tiene el equipo completo. Gracias y espero pronto la informacion
I do not represent the equipment manufacturer. Pioneer Steel Buildings sell the prefabricated building pieces. Please visit pioneersteel.com/
Very nice, Ron. I admire your abilities and envy your lifestyle.
Where do you live? Pioneer is a Canadian company, if I'm not mistaken. I'm in Saskatchewan but also have a place in British Columbia. Can you supply into the Okanagan Valley?
Ronald, I am guessing you live a little north of me since you put a lot of effort into the heating system. I live in southern Louisiana, where it is exactly opposite. You mentioned "the hottest of days" using those two small window units. Can you tell me how hot you meant, and how much AC I might need when the days get into the mid-upper 90's? Nice job on the video, as usual.
Brilliant love it
hey ron nice building i was wondering how much a 40x60 building from your company would run as compared to a conventional steel building thanks!
Looks great- very interesting. On those plywood panels I see you didn't go up the full 8 feet , but it seems they aren't 4 feet either. Did you cut them down? I'm just curious to why- purely aesthetic or other reasons as well? Thanks Ron!
What is the finished cost of the building with the heating system and accessories you show in this video and how does the cost compare to a wood frame building?
I know this is much stronger than a stick built, but how much more expensive is it?
Do you have any videos on mounting the wood panels to the side wall?
Sorry, no video showing that. Remove the existing building bolts at the level of the 2x4’s which the interior walls (plywood) will attach to. Pre-drill a hole from outside. 5/16 galvanized Lag bolt with a steel washer and a bonded washer under the head. Bonded washers have rubber on one side but the metal is pretty thin. Then grind the protruding point of the lag bolt off flush with the inside of the 2x4. Pine is soft so you want a full length of thread inside the wood and do not over tighten and strip out the threads. Don't overheat the lag bolt when grinding so as not to burn the wood. I used four 2x4’s for attaching the plywood (top, bottom and 2 in the center).
@@RonaldWalters2010 thank you for the information sir. I've been looking at turning one of these buildings in a camp hut for my father and mother. So I've been trying to find a way to attract siding, as I have a habit of over thinking simple problems.
Very nicely done! How are you connecting the 2x4s to the walls for the paneling?
Remove the existing building bolts at that level. Pre-drill a hole from outside. 5/16 galvanized Lag bolt with a steel washer and a bonded washer under the head. Bonded washers have rubber on one side but the metal is pretty thin. Then grind the protruding point of the lag bolt off flush with the inside of the 2x4. Pine is soft so you want a full length of thread inside the wood and do not over tighten and strip out the threads. Don't overheat the lag bolt when grinding so as not to burn the wood.
could this be used as a tiny home
Much better than my 240 sq ft camper! but my camper only cost $1,000.00. I assume this garage cost $50K minimum. You have to check w/ your county codes. I live rural so garage homes are OK. May not be allowed within in a city limit.
Thanks Ron...
Interesting video, Ron... Found it on woodgears. At first I thought this was a historical document about your woodshop, but through watching the video I see the cyclone on the back of the other building, and the cars inside this one. Then I'm reminded of your other videos of using the "indents" in the side of the steel shop building for innovative tool storage and so on.
This begs the question - how did you insulate your woodshop building? Or didn't you?
Where you buy this?
Nice vid, Ron,
So you will now be a dealer for this brand of building?
Good deal! I'm sure your consideration for construction and improvements will be valuable.
rc
Was this done with permits? Where? Anybody know if Florida lets you install these on commercial lots (as the primary structure) and conduct business out of them? Anybody know what the turnkey cost for a building this size with that slab installed?
Built with permits? Yes. Designed for the county and state where it will be installed... snow load or wind load included. Many have been installed in Florida... personal, residential, commercial. The rest is for your research.
And if a PEX pipe need some replacement due to some leaking? How are you gonna do that?
So how much did this run you? I am in MN and would love to do something similar at some point. Between the concrete, building, and installation/erection; how much do I need to save up for a turnkey building?
Did you put this on a floating foundation or did you put in a full footer?
I followed along fine until the last few minutes. What was the epoxy rebar discussion about? He didn't show any footage of this.
I did not have any photos of using the epoxy. The rebar must be mechanically connected to the stem walls. Stub sections of rebar were epoxied into the drilled holes to provide that solid mechanical connection. After drilling the holes in the concrete blow out all dust before epoxying the rebar into the holes. The rebar is overlapped by several feet and wire tied to each other. The concrete will hold everything together after that. Is that clear? Thanks for watching. Please subscribe.
Hi Ronald I just built a steel building the same style as yours the only thing I have left to do is build in the end walls like you did on the front of your building is there any advice on how to attach to the steel building I've been trying to figure out how to do it and haven't came up with anything solid yet I've watched your video but I can't tell how you went about it and there really isn't any information on this subject that I can find. any help you can give would be much appreciated
I did get my end walls done they came out awesome I used steel studs 2x4 16ga it is very strong I ended up putting in a top and bottom rail that goes all the way around the edge so all the studs are inside of it and screwed tight at top and bottom
Sorry one more thing I see you have the spray foam installation how can you dry wall or whatever to make it look like a nice flat wall in sorry I have no knowledge of this stuff but I'm extremely interested in building a 25x40 as a little house maybe
Danny Doty The appearance of the foam is a direct function of the experience of the person spraying it... but it will never be smooth and "pretty".You either need to accept the irregular surface of the foam or frame out a conventional rectangular structure inside the steel building so it has flat walls and a flat ceiling in which case a lot of space is lost inside the steel structure. A 25x40 is not very big if you start trying to frame out the interior to make it look flat.Go to PioneerSteel.com and look around the photo gallery for a few ideas. Google: Building a home inside a steel building (or similar) for more ideas.
+Danny Doty Once you choose an insulation type, usually cost determined, you can just frame in whatever sort of interior you want as per normal. There is no need to anchor to the outside wall or structure, no more than you'd need to anchor the exterior wall of any other structure to something. You'll lose inches dependent upon what sort of thickness of studs and panel you pick relative to the amount of load you're designing the interior structure to handle. I like how he took the time to describe the rebar through concrete with epoxy trick he uses to keep the width of the structure static... seems like a smart man. With the slope of the roof just keep your interior design/framing off and away (air gapped) from the upper super-structure's flex points and I can't see much of an issue. Boxes in boxes (or in this case: building boxes beneath and arch). Not sure if you know that I mean but I did my best.
what was the total cost of this project?
Hi from Oamaru New Zealand.
Any idea where these are made?. We have a lot imported from China. Pity there's non in Zinculum which is longer lasting.
These are made in Toronto Canada and the metal is Galvalume.
Galvalume, invented by Bethlehem Steel in 1972, is a steel sheet with a coating of 55% aluminum and 45% zinc.
Thanks for watching.
Please subscribe. That's what keeps this channel going!
Ron
@@RonaldWalters2010 Hi Ron. Can you confirm if the corrugations trap or hold water in the valleys when rained on?.
I fear galvanic erosion.
Cheers Carl
Water runs off. Like anything else, you need to pay attention to the assembly. The overlaps need to be on top of the lower piece... just like roof shingles. Very straight forward assembly.
What about passive (powerless) ventilation and condensation control?
Nice~
This may sound like the craziest idea for the use of one of these arched panel buildings. I am a disabled female veteran and I am looking for ways to build a loft style building which allows easy movement in a wheelchair, and use it as my home. Any ideas? I know I would have to add heat/ac plumbing for a kitchen and a bathroom. Thank you for any ideas and help you may have for me. I have been begging my local VA for handicap adapted home grant, and after 27 plus years, I have given up on my VA doing anything for me.
First go to pioneersteel.com and look around. Under building types go to Photo Gallery… it’s not great but it shows some stuff. The building is not hard to erect but it is labor intensive. And it must be put together correctly so you don’t have any leaks. You simply need to pay attention and follow directions. I had a 3-man crew put up my second building in 3 days (but they knew what they were doing). Finding and experienced crew may be difficult. The steel building is strong, weather proof, termite proof, fire proof and you will not need to replace shingles. The steel building is self-supporting but it will not support any additional structure internally or externally. That means you CANNOT hang any portion of your residential construction from the steel building. You would frame out your internal construction inside the steel building and the building would be your outer protective shell. You would want roof turbines on the steel building to prevent condensation inside the steel building. I would not recommend the skylights you will see offered by the steel building companies. So you would end up with a wood house inside a steel shell. You decide what you want, draw up a floor plan including plumbing & electrical details, then do the excavation for footings and concrete floor (you may end up with footings for the steel building and footings for your internal construction). Then ask for the building to be delivered. Usually all the parts of the building are unloaded by hand piece by piece (and there are a LOT of pieces and buckets of nuts & bolts). Having 6 to 8 strong, younger people for this is a very good idea. Erect the building and then build your house inside. Don’t know where you live, I use radiant heat, which is nice because the floor is warm and the heat rises from the floor. Radiant heat is fairly cheap if you can do it yourself like I did but tends to be outrageously overpriced by contractors and if they don’t know what they are doing it can be a nightmare! Your insulation would be in the walls and ceiling of your framed construction. I have no idea where you would intend to build this nor your idea of what a loft would be or the intended access. A elevator could be a problem with a power failure. Sprayed foam insulation is expensive but many, many, many times more efficient than fiberglass plus it seals the building airtight. Another good insulation is
sprayed in place cellulose insulation (recycled paper product - Google it). This is basically how mice and rats make an insulated nest by chewing up paper and cardboard. Cellulous insulation is many, many times better than fiberglass. Fiberglass insulation (to me) is a rip-off, a waste of money and a joke. I heat my house with a hot water heater. I heat my shop with a hot water heater. I have zero fiberglass in my house. If you want to live inside something that looks like the inside of my workshop then you would need to have all the plumbing and electrical done before spraying the foam insulation. Watch my video Welcome To My New Shop, which pans around the inside of the building. The sprayed foam is not pretty but it is a good insulation and when painted white reflects the light nicely. Living inside my workshop (which is 500 sq ft) would be like a studio apartment with a 100% open floor plan. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and Please Subscribe… there is probably some other stuff which will be of interest to you. Ron
How much did something like that cost
Asked and answered in comments... how to estimate the cost based on the cost of the concrete work.
@ronaldwalters I have some questions regarding your building as I am preparing to build mine. I have concrete and base plates ready to go how can I contact you?
How did you attach the 2x4 to the walls. Did you just use the bolts from the structure itself?
Ronald Graham Remember, most sales people you talk to probably wouldn’t
recognize one of these building if it fell on them. They are working off a
script or have been told to tell customers “never drill a hole in the
building”. Common sense and logic are needed when you do these things.
The building bolts are on the outside of the corrugations
except where the base plate attaches. The flat panels are on the inside of the
corrugations. I drilled a ¼” hole in the center of the flat panels and attached
the 2x4’s with a lag bolt in every flat the length of the building. I used a
flat washer against a bonded washer on the outside of the building to maintain
a good seal against the building panels. A bonded washer is a metal washer with
rubber bonded to one side. The metal portion of a bonded washer is relatively
thin and flimsy. The flat washer supports it. A little silicone sealant on the
rubber of the bonded washer is a good idea. Only tighten the lag bolts firmly,
do not strip the threads in the wood (2x4’s are pine and it tends to be fairly
soft wood).
Every flat along the base plate has two bolts (which will
engage the 2x4’s. Along the bottom against the base plate, smack the 2x4 with a
hammer to indent the wood where all the base plate bolts are. Drill clearance
holes for one bolt and nut (original building bolt and nut) and a hole for the
lag bolt in the other. The height of your side walls will determine if you have
to do the same thing for the top 2x4 (watch the video again and you will see
what I mean).
Use lag bolts long enough to obtain full thread contact with
the entire thickness of the 2x4 and then grind off the excess bolt flush with
the inside of the 2x4.
I used on 2x4 at the top, one at the bottom of the plywood
and then 2 two more spaced in between (watch the video again).
I would not recommend drilling holes in the curved sections
or in the flat roof panels. A few holes in the vertical side panels and using
bonded washers you should be good. Remember, think about what you are doing
before you go drilling any holes.
Ronald Walters
Awesome. Thanks for the advice. Keep the videos coming!!
If you were to guess how much would it cost to get electricity water and sewage out to these if I had land?
Danny Doty I could not guess. You need to get an estimate from a contractor and then they would need to know the specific property involved, if city electric, water, gas and sewage are available or a rural location where a septic system and a water well would be required.
How much additional cost in involved in ordering the building with the industrial base plates instead of the regular method for anchoring the building, just using angle iron plates that get embedded in the concrete after assembly? It does seem much nicer and easier than trying to precisely locate each of the plates individually.
It does add some additional cost but the industrial base plates are a far superior mounting method and they precisely locate each arch where they are supposed to be. An unsupported arch can grow or distort in length. The industrial base plates and perforated angle straps keep things aligned until all the bolts & nuts are installed. Embedding the metal building into concrete can be a corrosion point and personally I never recommend it..
Ronald Walters
Sounds like the best way to go, I'll go for that option.
When doing the final tightening of all the nuts, is that done from the bottom? Since there's no way to hold the opposite end, I assume the bolts can remain stationary from friction while tightening the nuts.
Follow the directions that come with the building. All bolts & nuts holding all the arch sections are installed loose and about half the bolts & nuts between each arch are installed loose. All the bolts & nuts for the industrial base plates are installed loose. Once up and squared the remaining bolts & nuts are installed loose. After 100% of the bolts & nuts are installed loose, you go back and start tightening and try to do it symmetrically. The bolts are tightened from the outside and someone is inside holding the nuts with a wrench. Takes a while. Have fun and don't fall off the building.
Ronald Walters
Okay, so there will need to be a helper for that final tightening then, thanks for the info. It'll be coming in March, so I'll have plenty of time to go through the process, very helpful-
How much did the spray foam cost?
I don't remember... but it wasn't cheap... but it is the best way to go providing you can find someone who knows what they are doing. I visited a shop that was sprayed by an amateur and it was an unbelievably ugly mess.
Ronald, You state you are a Pioneer Steel Buildings dealer, what part of the country do you sell these in?
Thanks,
Jeff
I have a pioneer steel shop with a steel end wall.I want to replace it with a wood end wall. Do you have any instuction or video on this as i cant find much
Sorry, I do not have a video showing the method I use to construct/connect the wood frame end wall.
Is there a European dealer? Sicily to be exact...
I"m attempting to find the video (if it exists) for tying the sides of the rounded steel structure into the rebar. Do you have the link for the concrete poor?
In the case of my garage, the building is not tied to the rebar. The stem walls and the concrete are tied together with rebar. Then the building is bolted to the stem walls. I do not have a video for the concrete work.
Nice cars dude! :)
How feasible and cost effective are these buildings as primary residences?
It is done a lot. Framed out residence in one end. Very durable outside shell with no shingles or siding to be concerned with. And then a large garage section in the other end for the RV, boat, cars airplane hanger or workshop. Many possibilities. go to Pioneer Steel Building website and then photo gallery. Cost effectiveness is a little like comparing apples and oranges as it depends on what you are going to do with it, however it provides a very solid building at a lower cost.
Excellent! Never thought about the metal building vs. stick built home before until it just sort of "hit me" a few days ago. I appreciate the feedback.
Ronald Walters...But options for windows and skylights very limited.
Hi Ronald - great job on your new workshop. Could you please provide a brief description on attaching your wood end wall to the steel. I have an idea - but I'm curious about your system. I may have bought my building with your help - in 2008 - had to put my shop on hold because of ill health. It's finally up now, and I want to do wood-framed end walls with vinyl siding too. I drove to Ontario CA to pick up my building in 08. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -steve
I am scared to ask how much does it cost...
can this be buried under ground as hurricane and earthquake shelter if covered with sand then can create the top. ????
These are designed to withstand wind and snow loads for the specific location they will be built. They are not designed to support external loads. Burying it in the ground would result in a considerable external load and it would collapse.
Tanks. I GUSS I will be trying with a shipping container instead.
Nice
the in floor heating is killer...!!!
What other products do you have, I need something to park my atv under.
HOW MUCH WAS THE TOTAL COST ??? Many people are asking.
Question asked. Question answered. Please read the comments. Unfortunately RUclips shuffles the questions and answers. Read them anyway. What it may have cost me back then is irrelevant to what it will cost you now for what you want or for the area where you live. Estimate the concrete work (footings, stem walls, 5” reinforced floor) the steel building will probably cost you about the same. You will need help with building erection (3 or 4 people). Learn about radiant heat systems and do it yourself. You will probably need help with the concrete and foam insulation. Framing the wood front-end wall, garage door, electrical, plumbing, A/C, exhaust fan, etc. you can do these yourself fairly cheap. Plan ahead. Make a detailed list of what you want and get estimates. If you cannot do any of this yourself, turnkey will cost you a lot more.
Another question: how can I install shelves on that walls?
I like these type of steel building but i am concerned about the foam insulation. I have heard many dangers with this type of insulation. Is there alternative methods?
+Domenic Abitino Manufacturers show other much less efficient and complicated ways. You can research their websites. What are your concerns with the foam?
+Ronald Walters well I heard they can let off s toxic odor. Is this false or old versions.
also if you ate in cold weather how does that effect the transf r between the steel and foam? does the steel sweat on the inside from the cold? with our workout the foam?
+Domenic Abitino A bare steel building can sweat on the inside with changing weather conditions. That it why roof turbine ventilators are recommended. With foam sprayed on the inside of the building it will not sweat. There were (possibly still are) some foam insulation which gave off formaldehyde. Much better polyurethane closed cell expanding foam insulation available today. Only closed cell polyurethane foam will adhere to the CLEAN steel building. The building needs to be power washed with soap and water and rinsed to remove mill oil. The foam also seals any air leaks and keeps out bugs. You would want to deal with an experienced installer to get an even coverage. I have seen some pretty sloppy foam jobs that looked terrible. The foam needs to be painted to protect it from ultraviolet light.
Some contractors will say you can spray the inside of the building with glue and then spray cellulose insulation. Do not do that. It will fall off and you will have a real mess.
+Ronald Walters Thank you for your input I will research a bit more. I want to use a steel building as a habitat.
Can I ask a silly but honest question? Could you fix this and make it look really nice to be a little man cave or small home?
Danny Doty Or a LARGE home. It is done a lot. Framed out residence in one end. Very durable outside shell with no shingles or siding to be concerned with. And then a large garage section in the other end for the RV, boat, cars airplane hanger or workshop. Many possibilities. Go to Pioneer Steel Building website and then photo gallery. Cost effectiveness is a little like comparing apples and oranges as it depends on what you are going to do with it, however it provides a very solid building at a lower cost.
+Danny Doty My grandmother lives in a retirement community were all the residents own RV's and easily half of the homes are built out of buildings like these. Some of them would shock you how nice they are, you would never know once inside that they were a steel buildings. Like Ronald said most of them house the living space and garage or covered area for the RV's.
how did u fasten the 2x4's to the inside walls
+ron johnson I used some of the building bolt holes where possible for the top & bottom 2x4's and drilled holes for the middle 2x4's. The 2x4's were attached with lag bolts with a bonded washer and a flat washer under the lag bolt head. The lag bolts protrude on the inside of the garage so I ground them flush with the surface of the 2x4. Watch the video again and you will see where the bolts are ground flush. Where a building bolt interferes with the 2x4, you use a forstner bit to cut a clearance hole in the 2x4.
Were can i get something like this
So what did it all cost without the heating system?
Basically, calculate the cost of the stem walls and concrete floor with rebar as described and the building itself (bare building) will probably be about he same. Then add all the other goodies like front end framing, garage door, exhaust fan, insulation, electrical, etc., etc. My building cost was then... your cost would be "now".
Erection (n.) Anything erected; a building of any kind. Hope that helps. :-)
How much would a 20x40 cost
Danny Doty Get an estimate from a GOOD concrete contractor for the footings and stem walls, both with lots of rebar, and the concrete slab with rebar on 2 ft centers both directions plus 6" square wire mesh, all as shown in this video. The cost of the steel building will probably be pretty close to the same cost.
Neighbors had lots of relatives. they helped him put it up. Concrete floor. snub wall on sides (inches), he build out the front and back. Structure is great. He was going to use it for working on cars, as he's otherwise unemployed. He's still unemployed, and doesnt have room in there for anything. filled with junk. He build shelves, to get stuff off the ground, and get more floor space back. Took stuff off the floor, put it on the shelves. Then got more stuff. Still same problem. Now, there's a path to walk in and out. Not enough room to take out a bicycle.
Your walls move? Mine don't
Until the bolts are all tightened, there is quite a bit of movement. After everything is tightened there is a very small amount of movement most noticeable end-to-end. You can hit the end of the building and it will transmit to the opposite end through some flex in the corrugations. After the expanding foam was installed it eliminated most of that but the steel buildings will expand and contract... bright sun then cloud cover or rain just like a metal roof does.
Please tell me where you bought your building.
gojohnnygo6869 It
is a Pioneer Steel Building manufactured in Toronto Canada. I bought it
from myself. I am an authorized dealer. However I have not actively pursued
trying to sell these buildings, as I do not have time to deal with it at this
point in time.
Its not very good idea to use a rebar mesh as guide to pex piping as tiny movement of pipe could grind off pipe wall causing leaking - there's dedicated coated mesh to serve a purpose or plastic rails.
Pay extra money and get the really good ones with ball bearings in them or the squeaking will drive you nuts.:-)
Hi Ronald I have recently purchased a Pioneer steel build 20x30 getting ready to mount the steel base plates i added to my order after watching this video my local dealer is useless and I do have some questions like what is the exact measurement between the base plates?
They are required to give you the drawings and the installation booklet for your building. You need the exact dimensions (which vary for each different type and size building) so you can prepare your stem wall (or whatever you are doing). Either grab your dealer by the throat (or kick him somewhere he will remember) to get his immediate attention or call the factory in Toronto, Canada and complain about your dealer. The factory will listen you... believe me!
Since I did not sell you the building, I can not really help you.